[edibleseasonals]
Mustard Greens BRIGHTER, BITTER, BETTER BY ELLEN JACKSON PHOTO BY JENNIFER MURDOCK
10 l EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2014
P
rofessionally trained chefs pride themselves on having highly developed palates and olfactory organs, which is different than saying those body parts are overly sensitive. About 25 percent of people are “supertasters,” or individuals whose tongues house more—and more sensitive— taste receptors. The distinction sounds impressive, but “supertaster” does not equal “superpower.” It doesn’t come with a flashy outfit or a heightened sense of justice. It isn’t even something to brag about. Supertasters don’t like bitter. I, on the other hand, seem to have been issued a healthy set of bitter taste genes. Among my favorite foods are grapefruit, black coffee (dark, oily beans), marmalade, licorice, rapini, chicory and endive, and the hoppiest IPAs. Their bracing bitterness is the charm of these foods, and there is one of which I am particularly enamored: mustard greens. Brassica juncea, or Chinese mustard greens as they’re commonly known, come in bunches of red-veined leaves with deep purple stems or floppy green leaves with ruffled edges. Both varieties belong to the plant family brassicaceae, or cruciferae if you prefer the older name, which refers to the cross-shaped flowers of its members. Bold and mild-flavored brassicas alike are edible from root to flower and thrive when the temperature dips. In mellow family members like kale, collards and cauliflower, cold weather encourages sweetness. Piquant cousins, including mustards, radishes and watercress, which are particularly easy to grow, similarly improve in flavor by becoming more aggressive, more complex. More bitter. Not only is bitter better, it’s better for you. The same compounds that make certain foods taste bitter (caffeine, carotenoids, flavonoids, polyphenols) make them good for
us. It’s well worth acquiring a taste for mustard’s pungent, peppery qualities since it is nutritionally powerful, providing massive doses of vitamins A, C and K, plus vitamin E, calcium, fiber, manganese, antioxidants and phytonutrients. All that, and it’s a detoxifying agent extraordinaire, too. The Indian Himalayas are mustard’s original home. From there, their popularity in both field and kitchen spread to India, Russia and China, and then Japan and Korea, where the leaves are most frequently used. Their peppery flavor, delivered in a pungent blast reminiscent of wasabi, is also common in African and Italian kitchens. Of the multiple varieties of Chinese mustard grown, some form heads, while others grow as loose leaves. Either way, choose crisp, freshlooking greens that are unblemished and free from yellowing or brown spots. Stored in a bag in the refrigerator, they will stay fresh for three to four days. They’re at their best and are most readily available from December to April, when they’re plentiful at farmers’ markets and grocery stores that carry local produce. We’re all born with an aversion to bitterness, predisposed to be suspicious of acerbic-tasting plants since there was once an evolutionary advantage to avoiding them. (Many toxins are bitter.) Maybe supertasters have a superior instinct for survival. Me? I’m happy with the taste receptors I’ve been dealt and the fact that my continued existence will taste better, brighter and more bitter. Time to stock up on mustard greens. ep
Ellen Jackson is a Portland-based writer, cookbook author and food stylist.
Quick & Easy MUSTARD
GREENS
RECIPES
Sautéed
Soupy
Stewed long and slow, mustard greens become the stuff of dreams when they share a pot and several hours with a ham hock or a slab of salt pork. They’re delicious sautéed in roast chicken drippings, served with barbecue, alongside a fatty pork roast or cooked with bacon.
To my mind, soul food, Cajun and Creole are some of the best mustard green preparations: long-simmered in broth, with ham hocks and onions, liberally doused in vinegar and served with cornbread. Or in Gumbo z’Herbes, a meatless version of gumbo traditionally served in Louisiana on Good Friday. The green gumbo gets its name from the eight or more varieties of bitter greens that go into it.
And yet mustard greens aren’t so tough that a quick, light sauté in peanut oil doesn’t prepare them perfectly for a liberal sprinkling of coarsely chopped, salted peanuts. Chiles, coconut milk, ginger, sesame, soy and creamy Greek yogurt make other happy companions, balancing the pungent greens with sweet, salt, spice and/or fat.
Crispy Crisped in a slow oven that dials back their spicy kick, mustard green chips are a serious contender for the limelight that kale chips have enjoyed long enough. See recipe on page 13.
Raw The young, tender leaves of the plant are among the best additions to salad I know. A ratio of 1/3 baby mustard leaves to 2/3 milder baby greens and spinach is just assertive enough to handle creamy buttermilk dressing. When they get larger, the leaves can be lightly massaged with olive oil, lemon juice and a small clove of finely minced garlic, then tossed with shavings of Parmesan cheese. EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2014 l 11
[edibleseasonals]
Recipes MUSTARD
GREENS
Find more seasonal recipes at edibleportland.com
Spanish Tortilla with Mustard Greens Unlike the tortillas used in Mexican cooking, a Spanish tortilla more closely resembles a frittata. Traditionally, sliced potatoes and onions are poached in a generous amount of olive oil and then meet up with beaten eggs to form a thick, sliceable omelet. This version uses diced potatoes and significantly less oil without sacrificing flavor. 3
Tbsp olive oil
1
small yellow onion, sliced
1
large baking potato, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/4
tsp kosher salt (divided)
1
small bunch mustard greens, large stems removed, leaves
8
eggs
coarsely chopped (4 to 6 cups) 1/4
tsp freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oil in a 10- to 12-inch ovenproof nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, potato, and 3/4-teaspoon of the salt and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the potato is cooked. Stir in the mustard greens, a handful at a time, until they all fit in the pan. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the greens are wilted.
RECOMMENDED READING YOU’LL FALL IN LOVE WITH BRASSICAS, FROM KALE AND CAULIFLOWER TO KOHLRABI AND RABE, AFTER WORKING YOUR WAY THROUGH THE NEWEST COOKBOOK BY PORTLAND-BASED AUTHOR LAURA B. RUSSELL. AVAILABLE IN SPRING 2014.
2. Preheat the broiler. In a bowl, beat the eggs until blended. Stir the remaining 1/2-teaspoon of salt and the pepper into the eggs. With the pan still over medium heat, spread the vegetables evenly over the bottom and pour the eggs over the vegetables. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the eggs are set around the edges. Transfer the pan to the broiler about 3 inches from the heat source. Broil the tortilla for 2 to 3 minutes, until the eggs are set and the top is browned. A knife inserted into the tortilla should come out clean. 3. Slide the tortilla onto a cutting board or a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings
Reprinted with permission from Brassicas: Cooking the World’s Healthiest Vegetables: Kale, Cauliflower, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts and More by Laura B. Russell (Ten Speed Press, © 2014).
12 l EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2014
Braised Mustard Greens, Ginger & Rice
Mustard Green Chips
With a perfectly poached egg on top, and a piece of lightly toasted or grilled crusty bread underneath, it’s a complete and satisfying meal. I like to finish it with a healthy dose of Tabasco.
No, they’re not potato chips, but they have tons of flavor, are easy to make, and are just as satisfying when it comes to answering a crispy-salty craving. For a nod to the green’s southern origins, sprinkle the leaves with Cajun spices or smoked paprika after tossing them with oil. In a jar with a bow, these also make a great holiday gift!
2
big bunches mustard greens
2
Tbsp olive oil
1
medium onion, thinly sliced
1
bunch mustard greens
cup basmati rice
2
Tbsp olive oil
1/2 1
small clove garlic, finely chopped or grated
1 1/2
Tbsp grated fresh ginger
1 1/2
tsp cumin seeds, toasted and ground (see note)
1
tsp red pepper flakes
1
bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped, include 1/2 of the stems Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4
large eggs
4
pieces lightly toasted or grilled bread, rubbed with a garlic
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Wash and dry the mustard greens, remove and discard the stems and tear the leaves into large pieces. Toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and bake at 250 degrees for 30 minutes, or until crisp. Makes 6 small servings
Recipe by Ellen Jackson
clove
1. Remove stems from the mustard greens and wash leaves. Cut into 1-inch ribbons and place in cold water. Warm olive oil in a deep, wide sauté pan with a lid over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, until partially softened, about 4 minutes. Add rice, garlic, ginger, cumin and red pepper flakes. Lower heat slightly, and stir to combine all ingredients. 2. Remove mustard greens from water, and add to pan along with the cilantro. Add a generous amount of salt and cover. Remove lid after several minutes, and stir to combine well. Continue to cook, covered, over lowest possible heat until the rice is cooked and the greens are tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Add a few tablespoons of water if ingredients are sticking to the pan.
“Mustard green chips are a serious contender for the limelight that kale chips have enjoyed long enough.”
3. Poach the eggs during the last several minutes of cooking time. To serve, place a piece of bread on the bottom of a shallow bowl. Season the greens to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper, and spoon over the toast. Top with a poached egg and serve as is, or with a vinegary hot sauce like Tabasco. Note: To toast seeds, heat in a dry skillet over medium heat until they start to brown. Stir occasionally. Be careful not to burn. Makes 4 servings
Recipe adapted by Ellen Jackson from Deborah Madison’s Local Flavors EDIBLE PORTLAND WINTER 2014 l 13