Unisex offer by Ellie Ward

the UNISEX offer

An indepth focus on the unisex aesthetic and looking at how unisex clothing can appeal more to the consumer.

21.STREETSTYLE

25. CONSUMER 2.CONTEXT PROFILES 3. INTRODUCTION

METHODOLOGY

7.CURRENT LANDSCAPE 9.the designer 11.the brand 13.the consumer

OUTCOME 37.

the conslusion 38. the recommendations 39. in context 41.

FIGURES LIST 46.

47.

15. REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY 49.

AMERICAN APPAREL

20. A MISUNDERSTANDING

APPENDICES 54.

Introduction

As men and women begin to cast off traditional gender roles, new opportunities are opening up for brands to widen their appeal through genderless packaging and unisex products. Stylus, 2013

Today’s emerging unisex trend motivated me to explore and test the likelihood that the everyday British high street consumer has an appetite for this kind of offer. I looked at the clothing aesthetic that is considered gender neutral and is gradually filtering down from premium brands to the local high street.

gender has been a hot topic in fashion for decades. (Nakiska, 2014:Online) First and foremost it is crucial to look at current unisex collections; how do consumer’s repsond to the aesthetic and is there a comparison between men and women? Thereafter, to understand the consumer who is attracted to this aesthetic, because ultimately the product offering should appeal to a sizeable chunk of the market. How sizeable, or perhaps little, is this market segment? The consumer with this particular enthusiasm for unisex can expose the appeal. Is it a niche market that has nothing more than an interest in trends or is it about creating gender statements?

In 2014 unisex products have now moved across and ventured out further than the fragrance industry. Stylus’ ‘Genderless’ report stated that

fashion and beauty industries are among the first to champion a genderless aesthetic. (Stylus, 2013:Online)

Whether it be Nike trainers or Simple skincare, affordable products that can be used by men and women are becoming much more recognisable to the average consumer. The reason could be that

Dependent on this research are the possible outcomes that could encourage clothing brands to offer unisex items in a unisex space.

U-ni-sex adj.

Designed for or suitable to both sexes: unisex clothing; hairstyles. Not distinguished or distinguishable on the basis of sex.

Elimination or absence of sexual distinctions, especially in dress.

asexual, aseasonal, they come from no place, no time, no tradition, yet they could be home anywhere, anytime. They exude the essence of timeless style.

Unisex is defined to be something that is ‘not distinguished or distinguishable on the basis of sex’ (Ryle, 2012:6). Though, it is very important to distinguish, the difference between sex and gender. Within this definition of unisex, “sex” refers to the biological difference between males and females (Ryle, 2012). Ryle terms “gender” to be the social meanings that we all recognise to be layered onto the differences between the sexes. I have used the term unisex to describe, products and style that are neither specific to male nor female. I also use terms such as gender neutral and genderless, to imply a product or style with a lack of gender and therefore lack of difference between the sexes. To have an understanding about what is and what isn’t unisex is necessary to making clear and concise recommendations.

(Hourani, 2013:Online)

However unisex clothing on the catwalk is very different from selling at a lower market level. The catwalk is a place for designers to showcase creativity, being as radical and impractical as they please. There isn’t as much courage seen on the high street in terms of unisex clothing, understandably. But the brands that are currently offering unisex are offering very safe items within a very safe space. It is for this reason I am collating recommendations for brands offering or who wish to offer unisex clothing only.

I believe there is a discussion to be had within fashion surrounding unisex as more than ever before designers such as JW Anderson are breaking moulds and creating collections that aren’t defined by gender. He considers his menswear collections to be ‘unisex’ and argues that the designs aren’t just for the shock factor.

It cannot be disputed that ‘boundaries between men and women are being redrawn’ (Stylus, 2013:Online) on more than one level. How far can this trend progress? More crucially, how long will this last? It needs to be made clear that this is a discussion about gender-neutral aesthetic. It may touch on topics such as androgyny, women wearing men’s clothes and vice versa, and gender stereotypes. But I will not be researching in any depth to gender exchange, gender blending, couples sharing clothes or gender in terms of sexuality.

If all I was trying to do was shock, I’d make it really shocking. I think people forget about unisex, but I think it’s very relevant now. (Anderson, 2013:Online) Rad Hourani was the first designer to present a unisex haute couture show during Paris fashion week, 2012. Only designing unisex garments, Hourani says they are

Methodology My main aim within this research report was to find out the most revealing yet appropriate information surrounding unisex clothing products and its prime target market. My second concern was to include as many different and innovative research methods to cover more ground and to hopefully uncover varied responses from both consumers and authorities.

Secondary research was my starting point, mainly to establish what topics to cover and what could potentially misinform my project. Certain books concerned with gender politics and sexuality stereotypes helped me establish that I am not researching into the psychology behind unisex. It was difficult to find relevant books written about the unisex fashion trend that I am discussing, for no reason other than this trend is happening currently. My research is forward thinking, considering possibilities not discussing something that has already happened. I have since found more suitable research in magazine and newspaper articles, online journals and trend prediction sites. To further filter this secondary research, I enabled Google Alerts to keep me updated with only the most relevant and up to date news and information.

However it was a straightforward method for me to start with, and in turn provided me with some more routes to look into. To best distinguish the responses between genders I created two versions of the same survey for men and women. I distributed the survey online by emailing people, posting on social networking sites and I had a physical copy. I used the physical copy after collecting a solid amount of responses online in order to even out the proportions between male and female responses. At this point I hadn’t met anybody who immerses themselves within a unisex lifestyle and so I didn’t know anybody to be a ‘typical’ respondent (Davies, 2007: 55). Therefore, unfortunately, there was no sampling taken out for this survey and my sample is quite simply a convenient sample. At this point I needed some more in depth answers in relation to unisex clothing specifically. I realise that there are few unisex brands out there that offer unisex products only. The reason I am doing this research is to conclude some recommendations for the possibility that more brands may introduce only unisex products in the future. Instead, to find the consumers who have an appetite for unisex clothing, I decided to focus on the brand American Apparel. Whilst still targeting both male and female customers, this brand also has a large offering of unisex items. I had wanted to research into a more sophisticated way of selling the unisex aesthetic also, looking at the brand Cos. But unfortunately the employees in Cos were unable to answer my questions, and the brand has little presence online to reach customers.

I knew from the beginning my success would be determined by helpful primary research. Initially I considered the ideas and stories that lead me to research unisex. I conducted a small focus group interview with 6 participants discussing brands that associate themselves with unisex. The aim was not only to recognise different people’s opinions, but also to see if there is any difference in attitude between the average day consumer and the fashion authorities. My first group of respondents was made up of 2 males and 1 female. The second was only 1 male but 2 females, and this group were all fashion students, who would hopefully act closer to that of a fashion insider. I had 3 sets of images to show respondents, the first being images from this year’s menswear autumn/winter 2014 collections. The second set was promotional imagery from CK One fragrance adverts. The final set was a group of images surrounding the brand Other. I was in hope that having a few opinions and perceptions about these brands, their look and tone of voice, I would be able to better understand how unisex brands aim to talk to their customers.

Firstly I conducted an interview in store with an American Apparel employee about the unisex options and how they were marketed within store. Secondly, and more importantly it was the consumer I wanted to contact. As customers in the shops were more reluctant to answer my questions, I decided to go online. I looked at consumers who followed blogs or social networking sites for the brand. Regrettably, for me, Facebook users are too protected that I was unable to email or message people I wasn’t currently friends with. Luckily for me the brand has a twitter account, and this network allowed me to tweet requests for interviews with people who have followed.

I next created a closed question survey asking questions about the respondent’s take on unisex and genderless items. I realise that a closed question - whilst being very easy for the respondent to answer – isn’t very exposing for my research. It cannot accurately reflect the respondent’s preference or opinion.

I chose a large population of the most recent 100 British followers of American Apparel to give myself a large sample of 25. I wanted to ensure that male and female participants were in proportion of the population, meaning the only thing I needed to abide by was the fact that, according to Department of Health (2013), the population ratio between men and women, rounded down, is 50:50. However, I needed to also take into account that this isn’t representative of people using social networking sites. From the most up to date Social Networking Demographics Report from 2012, it was found that the ratio of males to females on Titter was actually 40% to 60%. With this new ratio I continued to complete a stratified random sample from this population, reflecting the gender distribution. I simply followed and tweeted my chosen respondents requesting a short interview over email or direct message on twitter. I required a form of research that aimed to understand why consumers dress the way they do. What are the motivations behind people’s outfits? Does their level of femininity or masculinity have a part to play in how they dress? I decided the most dynamic way to research this would be to carry out street style photography and ask them why they chose their outfit on that particular day. I thought it would also be interesting to ask each person how feminine or masculine they thought they dressed on a scale of 0 to 10. Unfortunately convenience sampling was unavoidable in this piece of research, as I didn’t have a particular consumer type in mind. I was identifying style preferences only and had no interest in the consumer’s demographics. When approaching people, I tried to not think too much about who I was asking, as this would implicate the results. Instead, I stood on the same street for an hour for three consecutive days and asked every third male or female who were alone and willing to participate. I felt that this approach would better represent the variety in or possibly lack of trends on the high street. Despite this, older consumers were less interested in having a photograph and I found that male consumers were less likely to stop and take the time. This has affected tthe proportions of my participant ratio. Together, these research methods can reveal information that can help me inform conclusions and my final recommendations.

Current Landscape The term unisex has been used continuously for years within the fashion media. I wanted to analyse the attitudes of designers and brands that already associate themselves with unisex, looking at how they use visuals and tone of voice. The following examples have informed my idea of what it means to be unisex, and have allowed me to start conversations with consumers about their perceptions surrounding unisex.

Designers

Fig 1: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, 2014

Fig 4: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, 2014

Fig 2: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, 2014

Fig 5: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, 2014

Fig 3: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, 2014

Fig 6: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, 2014

Many authorities are discussing unisex on the catwalks at the moment, online and within fashion editorials.

The recent AW14 London collections for men have seen articles titled ‘Crossing Gender Boundaries Again’ (Menkes 2014:Online). For the New York Times, Menkes suggests that certain designers have ‘rekindled the masculine-feminine debate in 21st-century fashion’ (Menkes 2014:Online). The effeminate designs coming from fashion week are less surprising than in previous years, and as the title of the article suggests, almost predictable. Menkes (2014) commented that JW Anderson’s collection seemed comprehensible and most importantly the clothes, “wearable”. However, his designs may be considered wearable by fashion experts but Metro Radio sarcastically commented on the chosen footwear via twitter.

Here are the shoes your bloke should be wearing ‘this season’ to be ‘in fashion’. (Metro Radio, 2014:Twitter)

It would seem the opinions on men’s fashion week differ quite drastically outside of the fashion industry. The local radio even - quite obviously – tweeted with a masculine tone by using the typical British word “bloke”. For Astrid Andersen, whilst also achieving positive reviews from the fashion press, received critical comments from the public. For Astrid’s show many editorials and journalists took to twitter with excitement but comments from your average consumers weren’t so complimentary. Twitter users commented that ‘off the shoulder menswear is not ok’ (Baron, 2014:Twitter). With this in mind, I conducted a small focus group with two types of respondents. Like defined in the methodology these two groups represented the average consumer and the fashion authorities. Showing images from both JW Anderson’s and Astrid Andersen’s latest collections (see figure 1-6) allowed me to see the respondents’ reactions. Initially a male respondent from the average consumer group insisted they couldn’t be intended for men, and asked if the designers wanted to make the men ‘look like women’. The group were unanimous in the decision that the Andersen’s designs are ‘ridiculous’ but at least imaginative, whilst they thought Anderson’s designs are ‘literally women’s clothes’ worn by male models. I found it interesting that the female participant in this group agreed that Anderson’s clothes are just female clothes as she could see herself in all three of the designs.

The fashion students had a similar opinion that the designs are too feminine, but argued that this isn’t the reason why the designs aren’t wearable. One female respondent from this group was desperate not to encourage stereotyping, and maintained that she couldn’t see men wearing these designs because ‘they’re not flattering’ not because they have feminine qualities. She highlighted that designers have been pushing gender boundaries in womenswear for much longer and she wouldn’t criticise androgynous designs for women. The general consensus was that your everyday male would be unlikely to wear anything as feminine as this. The groups were divided between a most likely option for regular males. A male participant, from the average consumer group, was horrified that cropped tops would be even considered for men. To which, the female participant in this group debated that the one shoulder was much more feminine. All three female respondents agreed with this view, whilst the male respondents said they would be more likely to wear the one shoulder. One participant did say the one shoulder only because it ‘is just one item of clothing that you can hide’. Even when the male respondents consider wearing one of the designs it’s not because they want to. If I were to go by consumer opinions your average every day male shouldn’t be able to wear these types of looks seen on the catwalk. Or rather they wouldn’t want to. Similarly, even though for different reason, the fashion students were in agreement. However, I think it would be too bold to say that gender extremes aren’t welcomed by any members of the public. It might just be that I haven’t found the right consumer. Like articles have highlighted, these collections are pushing gender boundaries and won’t appeal to everybody, as gender stereotypes still exist.

•These designs are understood and appreciated by fashion critics only. But the average male isn’t ready for these extremes, even the fashion concious male. • Women do not object to masculine clothes like the men seem to be doing with these femine designs.

Brand

Formerly known as B Store, Other is a new brand that aims to offer a genderless but affordable aesthetic.

I think the brand is worth looking at, as their demographic is the consumer segment I had in mind when collating unisex research. It has a physical boutique in London and a website that stocks other brands designed for both sexes, together with their own-label range of ‘unisex, utility-influenced clothing’ (Other-Shop, 2013:Online). The brand’s co-founder discusses the Other’s relaxed and contemporary approach to design with The Guardian. He says its is important that ‘Other is a fashion label but it’s not premium’ and that they have ‘always tried to keep Other accessible and affordable’ (Murphey, 2013:Online). According to the website, the brand is also about independence, paying attention to detail and offering a personal service that welcomes you to Other. As to be expected teal blue, garden green set against grey flooring and plain wooden fixtures play a big part in the store’s décor alongside lots of non-fitting trousers and draping. The aesthetic of the store design and the product is very contemporary, embodying neutrality. Whilst Other predominantly offers unisex items, the clothing that is gender specific is defended by Murphey to still have a unisex quality.

It’s quite unisex, there’s always a bit of androgyny in the womenswear and there are some feminine touches in the menswear. (Murphey 2013:Online)

Fig 7: Other-Shop product, 2013

Though, this gender-neutral quality isn’t seen within the layout of the product, as the menswear and womenswear are separated. To my surprise, the departments are also divided on the website and customers need to define their gender when signing up to the mail list. It seems that through visuals Other are saying all the right words associated with unisex, such as neutrality, youthful and trend aware. But in some ways this is where the unisex way of speaking ends – with the visuals. It is contradictory that Other wants to offer an aesthetic that cannot be defined by gender, yet asks customers to then define their gender in stores when choosing what to wear. I was unsure that Other was speaking the correct language in order to sell a unisex lifestyle. So I asked my focus group respondents what words and phrases come to mind when looking at images of other branding (see figure 7-10). Words that participants associate with the Other product are ‘more masculine than unisex’, ‘androgynous’, ‘tom-boy’, ‘bland’ and ‘boring’. I found it interesting from both groups; respondents found the clothing to be more masculine, when in fact the clothing is labeled unisex. Both groups were also united in opinions on the store design. Many respondents suggested that the shop exterior (see figure 10) looked more like a vintage or antique store, possibly even a café.

Words used to describe the interior were ‘cool’ ‘neutral’ and ‘sophisticated’. It would seem the interior represents the simplicity and neutrality of unisex more than the product. The one thing that is key is that somebody implied the shade of blue used for the shop front is like ‘denim blue’. Unisex can be best represented through jeans and so denim blue seems to be often used to symbolise genderless products. Thankfully for Other the blue doesn’t suggest masculinity.

•Other’s tone of voice, the brand image, isn’t completely in sync with how the brand wishes to be seen, the brand identity. •Store design is saying unisex more than the product that is considered more masculine despite being labelled unisex. •Exterior has the right colour but surprisingly appears to be more like a vintage shop rather than contemporary fashion label.

Fig 8: Other-Shop interior, 2013

Fig 9: Other-Shop product, 2013

Fig 10: Other-Shop exterior, 2013

These were the designers and brands that had brought unisex to my attention, but all in a different way to one another. Each seemed to be speaking a dissimilar language and aspiring to something different. Therefore I asked respondents about their view on unisex. The first question regarded how often respondents buy unisex products, if any. The most popular answer for men was ‘rarely’ with 12 respondents out of 39, saying that if they do its because they like the item not that it is unisex. Comparably, this chosen answer had the highest response from the female participants also, with 47% saying they don’t buy the product because it is unisex. The next favourite answer, again for both male and female respondents, was ‘never’ because they wouldn’t really know where to buy unisex items. I found it surprising that only 18% of male respondents answered to regularly or often buying unisex items, and even less of females at 12% answered regularly or often. Out of a total of 79 consumers a massive 74% cannot consider themselves routine unisex shoppers. It is positive though, that only 5 consumers say the reason is that they don’t like the aesthetic. It is suggested by 27 respondents out of the total 79 that the reason is that they know few brands who offer unisex product.

Consumer I asked everyday people their opinion on unisex clothing, asking 3 simple closed answer questions.

This is where the similarities in the sexes start to differ. A 91% majority of male respondents never or rarely buy clothing that is sold for the opposite sex. In contrast to this it would seem female respondents are more open minded, with 10% routinely buying men’s clothing and 22% buying sometimes. This response can be expected as men’s clothing is more likely to fit women, whereas women’s clothing can be fairly feminine looking in shape and style. It would then raise the question whether or not unisex clothing should be more masculine to be successful with both sexes. Much like my focus group participants suggested about Other’s masculine approach to unisex design. My final question asked respondents if they believe unisex clothing truly is genderless. The irony is that if you ask the male respondents almost half, at 44% said that unisex clothing is more feminine. But when I asked the female respondents a massive 67% argued that unisex clothing is more masculine. I have interpreted this reaction from consumers that the feeling of having one’s femininity or masculinity diluted down, an association is created between the label unisex and design features used for the opposite sex.

Unisex is more feminine

Unisex is more masculine

Fig 11: Survey Results, Ellie Ward: Own Image, 2014

American Apparel Launched in 1998, American Apparel specialises in very basic, ethically produced jersey cotton pieces. From 2008, dozens of stores throughout the UK’s busiest cities opened and were soon adopted by the young and cool ‘St Martins art students and Hoxton-dwelling creative’. (Vernon, 2008:Online).

Vernon interviewed Grazia’s fashion features editor who noted that the weekly style hunter was dominated by American Apparel pieces. She said it has ‘infiltrated the shopping habits’ of consumers (Rickey, 2008:Online) and it would seem she is right. Even in 2014 when conducting my own style hunting, it seemed that every other female member of the public was sporting a pair of iconic disco pants - or a look-a-like. This brand is responsible for merging the styles of stereotypical straight and gay aesthetics (Vernon, 2008) and a significant proportion of product is unisex. For this reason I wanted to conduct further research into American Apparel, it’s aesthetic and the consumer. Vernon states that to create a unisex aesthetic first it needs to be acknowledged that gender stereotypes still exist.

You could argue that it’s a useful conflation of cultures, a step toward dismantling stereotypes on sexual orientation. (Vernon, 2008: Online)

To find out initial information about the brands relationship with unisex I visited an American Apparel store and interviewed a member of staff. During this interview, (See appendix 6), Maria showed me around the store highlighting where the unisex products were. It surprised me that the majority of unisex products are situated alongside the menswear section as opposed to having it’s own. There is also no unisex category on the website, only male and female options. Whilst the opinions of staff were helpful, contacting customers was also essential to my research. The population, initially based on the 2012 Social Network report statistics, represented 40% male to 60% female ratio. However this just concerned people using Twitter, and not necessarily users who follow brands. I discovered when collating my population that for every 6 females where there should be 4 males there were only 2. A 2:6 ratio meant that I needed a population of 25 males to 75 females and the closest number for a quarter sample was 24, 6 males and 18 females. From my sample just over 60% contacted me, expressing their interest in answering my questions. Unfortunately out of the 15 only 11 were able to partake due to reasons such as being under the age of 16.

The age range of my accessible respondents was 16 to 29. This age group is much lower than I had anticipated, particularly after Maria had said that the brand ‘wants to reach out to older consumers’ and the store in Nottingham already ‘get[s] a range of people coming in’ (2014). It is arguable that the age range I established is more likely to be representative of customers using Twitter rather than all customers. On the other hand according to the Social Networking Demographic the average Twitter user is actually 37 years old. If my sample was larger then the results could be more accurately concluded, and possibly closer to American Apparel’s undefined target age. It was important to find out if the unisex products are American Apparel’s main attraction. Maria identified the brand’s best sellers and two of the top selling items were the unisex hoodies, and the unisex 2001 t-shirts. Despite this being a success for these unisex products - both on offer upstairs with the menswear section - two of the other best selling items were the female halter necks and disco pants. Perhaps it is that males predominantly buy the two unisex items due to them being placed near menswear and females buy the feminine options downstairs. I was interested to see how this would relate to my respondents and their favourite American Apparel items. One female and the only male participant both chose the unisex sweaters and also surprisingly chose the unisex “baby rib” briefs. It was this male who expressed more of an interest in unisex compared with the female, having bought many other genderless products. However it is noteworthy that when asked about the unisex aesthetic, he likes simplicity and often finds this in unisex products (Howard,2014). He doesn’t have a particular enthusiasm for the unisex quality, and he said in American Apparel the items he likes are ‘just sold as unisex, so that’s the only choice he has’ (Howard,2014). His core desire is to find a simple, genderless aesthetic whether it’s labeled as unisex or not. Similarly, the female has the same attitude towards the unisex aesthetic as opposed to wanting to make a gender statement. She owns some menswear items, but doesn’t buy unisex from anywhere other than American Apparel. The fact that this customer hasn’t tried to find unisex products elsewhere may just suggest that she prefers any clothing that is less feminine.

I asked each respondent if they buy unisex products from American Apparel and/or other brands and what other brand is their favourite. I discovered there is little comparison between ages and favourite brands. Most of the customers are aged 16-20 and all like typical high street brands with Topshop and H&M cropping up multiple times. Whilst only one respondent chose Urban Outfitters as a favourite, it was a close second for other respondents. I also found that 3 out of the 11 respondents don’t actually shop for unisex product anywhere else. In figure 1 I have displayed the participants answers adjacently to see the comparison in styles clearly. I felt that comparing the respondents closely and creating links between answers would reveal more information than their answers in isolation. For example, I noticed that the two customers who chose Topshop as their favourite, both do not shop for unisex items elsewhere. Shopping somewhere as gender specific as Topshop suggests that the main desire for that customer is to dress ‘on trend’. It is of value that these respondents’ favourite American Apparel items were plain unisex tees or jumpers, not iconic brand products such as white plimpsolls, disco pants, or the colourful bodysuits. The unisex aesthetic is trending therefore these respondents’ main aspiration is to be seen as on trend, not to become brand ambassadors for American Apparel. In addition, I found that the customer whose favourite brand is Urban Outfitters, shops at American Apparel for the easy jeans. Urban Outfitters, pays it’s due to the “hipster” and is popular for vintage like tees, urban style sweaters, and quirky gift items. What the brand is not, is a denim specialist. Urban Outfitters does offer jeans - and from personal experience – offers a more varied selection for men than women. Urban Outfitters is the place to go for a new scrunchie or a tapestry rucksack and it could be for this reason that this particular respondent wants to buy her jeans elsewhere. It must be noted that consumers will not shop in American Apparel and only American Apparel, immersing themselves within the brands beliefs and lifestyle. The two common denominators for why brands appeal to Generation Y are the product quality and performance, not the brand ethos or brand attitude (Nias, 2013). This has been evidenced when comparing my responses between American Apparel customers. Conversations with these consumers have enabled me to get a better understanding of different customer attitudes, in which I have matched together with an archetype. If I were to match an archetype with a true unisex enthusiast I would brand them as “The Explorer”. The core desire is to have freedom to find oneself, and to avoid conformity. I have found that more customers are alike “The Innocent” or “The Person Next Door” rather than explorers because they are traditionalists who are more likely to conform. This consumer’s main concern is to be included, to belong and to get things right. When asking if the participants had bought unisex products from anywhere I received answers such as ‘I wear my boyfriend’s t-shirts and jumpers quite a lot’ (Rebecca,2014). One female didn’t necessarily state that she bought unisex or menswear. Instead she said that she enjoys wearing baggy tops and that ‘to (her) they are unisex’ because they aren’t feminine (Alannah, 2014). Similarly, Maria stressed that customers shouldn’t be restricted to one department; the brand encourages customers to buy whatever they prefer. Despite buying both women’s and unisex products, Maria also regularly buys clothing from the menswear section, whilst male members of staff much prefer the female jeans. Wearing clothes that are designed for the other sex isn’t the same as wearing unisex clothes.

It was interesting that Maria told me ‘of course, the guys can’t wear some things’ (Maria,2014). Is it that they can’t, or won’t? It’s also curious that even though American Apparel has an attitude to “wear what you like”, Maria suggested that men cannot wear some things in reference to skirts. Similarly, this brand makes a contradictory statement like Other. It could be that unisex means one thing to American Apparel, that men and women are able to wear anything no matter the gender. But then to Other unisex is a style of aesthetic that is sold to men and women separately. I think the common ground is that both brands aren’t yet at the extremes that want to break down gender stereotypes.

Is there a misunderstanding? As earlier noted I was finding that I had to define the term ‘unisex’ and ‘genderless’ more than I had anticipated. It isn’t that respondents didn’t recognise or understand the term; it was that they were simply misusing the word unisex. For example during an interview a female respondent enthused that she ‘loves boy’s clothes’ (Alexandra, 2014) when asked about owning unisex clothing. Another example would be that when I when I asked if a male respondent thought unisex was weighted towards one gender he suggested that unisex was clothing intended for the opposite sex ‘anyway’. Rather than disregarding the information, I actually felt that this miscommunication was revealing in itself. How can a brand succeed in offering unisex products when the public don’t fully recognise a unisex product for what it truly is - without gender. But on the other hand, after I had recognised that American Apparel and Other were sending mixed messages, it could be the brand’s confusion that is misleading.

Streetstyle We design lifestyles by buying the attributes of identity. (Craik, 2009:147)

If we can design our lifestyles by buying ‘attributes’ then I wonder what are the attributes that people aspire to. Does it change with seasonal trends, or is it dependent on a person’s personality? The author of Fashion and it’s Social Agendas suggests that it is clothes that are a ‘major tool in the construction of identity (Crane, 2000:171). I wanted to find out the motivations behind people’s style preference and if masculinity or femininity have a part to play in the way people choose to dress.

Like mentioned in my methodology, I decided to partake in some street style photography asking people why they had chosen to wear what they were wearing. It was a quick way of interacting with people and has allowed me to compare the differences in style and gender. In figures 13-20, each participant has rated their own masculinity or femininity on a scale of 0-10. The scale is so that 10 equals “completely feminine” for a female respondent, 5 being considered to be “neutral” and 0 equals “masculine” and vise versa for male respondents. I asked the question ‘How would you rate your style of dress in terms of femininity or masculinity?’ with an emphasis on clothing preferences only. Respondents struggled to answer this question and often changed their answer. Out of the 8, the majority of 7 participants chose a rating of 5 or more, that part was easy. It would appear that people of either sex could easily distinguish whether they are more masculine or feminine. It was deciding specifically where on the scale above 5 to place themselves. I did find it intriguing that not one participant chose a higher number than 8, and in truth I wouldn’t have placed any of their outfits above 8 on the scale either. Even with the people who were out on these three days that I didn’t photograph, I rarely saw extremes in masculinity or femininity. I believe that every participant was wearing at least one item that could be adopted by the other sex and still be completely appropriate.

As an outsider having met these people for the first time for a short period, I felt, the number they had chosen wasn’t completely represented in how they dressed. But of course my perception was an initial judgment without having any background knowledge of this person. It was then that I understood that if I was making a conclusion on somebody’s style of dress so would other people. It is our clothes and sense of style that says something about our personalities, and will therefore to a certain extent define our level of masculinity or femininity. It is similar to that of a brand’s identity and the brand’s image. The consumer, knowing what their preferences and inspirations are for how they would like to dress, is the brand identity. But in actual fact, I’m creating a different opinion of the said consumer based on appearances, which would be considered the brand image. 3 participants rated themselves as completely neutral, and I can understand their decision. Especially for the female participants, they were wearing items that would be suitable for males, maybe even intended for males. However, I think it was their mix between male and female style that encouraged the respondents to choose the middle number. However, I wouldn’t agree that the three respondent’s outfits rated at 5 would be translated well onto the opposite sex. Unlike this, the single female who rated her dress at 4 was completely just. Her outfit was minimal in shape, style and colour and in my opinion easily worn by a male without looking out of place. She may have even been able to push her rating further down to 3. It seemed a fairly simple way of collecting responses, but more so it allowed me to analyse the range of styles, whether it be completely gender neutral or extremely stereotyped. I have found that firstly men differ less in style compared with women. The male participants each wore fairly fitted trousers or jeans and some form of trainer. The female participants however seemed to have more confidence within their style choices. I think it is for this reason that the females found it harder to decide their level of femininity. Two male participants, whilst still struggling to choose a number, were less open in discussion about their level of masculinity and were adamant that they weren’t in the slightest a number close to femininity. Even the one male who said he isn’t bothered about how masculine or feminine clothes are, he still insisted that he only ever buys menswear. I believe that while men can be style conscious they aren’t as brave in their fashion convictions as women can be. It is still apparent though on the high streets that many male and females are wearing the same kind of coat, or all wearing skinny jeans or leggings. It must be that product trends still run throughout most outfits despite the consumer’s personality and style.

Consumer Profiles Based on my research I have created three profiles to represent the different types of consumer that have been brought to my attention when exploring unisex clothing. There is the consumer who likes the unisex aesthetic, the consumer who follows trends and the consumer who is more likely to conform to gender stereotypes. I have not met and therefore not found the chance to investigate a consumer who likes unisex in order to make gender statements; perhaps this is a dated concept. The following three consumer groups have been identified with an archetype to further understand the desires, motivations and value behind their purchase decisions.

Aged 24+ M|F Ratio: 60|40 Clothing Spend : £200 per month Likes: Feminine or Masculine brands Looks for: Vintage or Heritage and Sophisticated styles Could be considered the ‘laggards’ “All men and women are created equal” The traditionalist is the person next door, your regular guy or girl. They have desire to belong and the greatest fear for this consumer is to stand out from the crowd. The motto of the traditionalist shouldn’t mislead you, this consumer stands by gender stereotypes in terms of clothing and style. This is the consumer who will be at the top end of the scale for masculine or feminine dress. The males and females who fall into this group consider themselves to be realists and develop ordinary social ambitions. However this consumer group shouldn’t be mistaken for an ‘Innocent’; they are not boring and are more likely to have creative hobbies and use their leisure time wisely. As this consumer group are older, they are more likely to have full time occupations, families and it is this reason that they step into more gendered roles. Their average spend a month includes money spent on partners and children. The Traditionalist isn’t objecting to unisex items, but they tend to avoid this aesthetic as it doesn’t suit their style.

The Traditionalist

Aged 16-20 M|F Ratio: 45|55 Clothing Spend : £30 - £50 per month Likes: Trend Aware and Fast Fashion brands Looks for: Anything that is currently on trend Could be considered the ‘early majority’ “Free to be you and me” The conscious is the innocent, sometimes titled the conformist. They have one desire and that is to be on trend always. The motto of the conscious implies that this consumer is searching for freedom and to some extent this is true. This is the consumer who see’s no limit to what they can wear, they will have the biggest wardrobe full of past trends. However, this is the youngest consumer group and so they have the smallest allowance to spend on clothes. Therefore fast fashion brands are ideal for these consumers. The males and females who fall into this group consider themselves to be open minded and optimistic. They can though on occasion. The main objective is to be happy, and so the conscious can toss back and forth between ideals. What they do know is that they wouldn’t want to be seen doing anything wrong, in terms of fashion choices. The Conscious loves unisex clothing at the moment. But they only remain interested in styles whilst they’re considered “in fashion”.

The Conscious

Aged 19-25 M|F Ratio: 50|50 Clothing Spend : £100 per month Likes: Simple, Cool and Neutral brands Looks for: The Unisex Aesthetic Could be considered the ‘early adopters’ “If you can imagine it, it can be found” The Supporter is the ‘Creator’ or ‘Dreamer’. These consumers shouldn’t be confused with creatives, as they aren’t necessarily artistic. The supporter harbours the qualities of a creator with regards to their love of a unisex aesthetic. They’re desire is to create or find things of enduring value; they have an aesthetic that they like, always have done and probably always will. The motto for this consumer is referencing the need to find simplistic, gender-neutral products. The Supporter has some qualities of ‘The Explorer’ such as the need to have freedom, and not be trapped by conformity or trends like The Traditionalist or The Conscious. However the reason they are more like the ‘Creator’ is that they don’t live an entirely unisex lifestyle, they aren’t rebelling or exploring, they simply know what they like. Consumers in this group don’t consider gender when buying this aesthetic, it’s the visual they like. Through personal fashion choices this consumer wants to express one’s own vision and like’s the culture and imaginative behind unisex designs. They can though on occasion. The main objective is to be happy, and so the conscious can toss back and forth between ideals. What they do know is that they wouldn’t want to be seen doing anything wrong, in terms of fashion choices. This consumer is of adult age, but without the life responsibilities of The Traditionalist. The average spend a month on clothes is entirely for themselves. The brands that this consumer shops at does range in price, but they don’t mind spending a little extra on an item, chances are they will always love it. The Supporter really likes the look of unisex clothing. This is the look and style that suits them and their personalities.

The Supporter

Strategic Outcome My objective was to thoroughly explore the chances that the everyday British high street shopper would be open to a new type of unisex offering. Through studying current designers, brands, products and consumer perceptions I feel my research could inform a set of recommendations to create a better market for unisex clothing. Going forward, these recommendations can be applied to and used by brands to achieve a solid and consistent unisex offer. I feel that certain consumers, like the Supporter from my consumer profiles, will have an appetite for this offer. As my research has suggested it isn’t a trend that every consumer has taken to easily or has any interest in at all. Recently, Tempe Nakiska wrote for Dazed and Confused an article titled ‘Is it time for fashion to lose the tiresome gender conversation?’ (2014). She debates it might be that consumers and even designers are bored of the gender discussion, and quite possibly nobody cares about the gender of clothing at all. I feel that my research identifies the reason why people will always care about gender. Whilst it may not be at the forefront of everybody’s minds, stereotyping is long inbuilt into our thoughts, particularly when creating a style and identity.

There is a market. The most important thing to note is that according to my survey, the majority of consumers don’t know where to shop for unisex clothing. It is a positive outcome that only 5% do not like the unisex look. Having looked at the three consumer groups it is the Supporter who is most in favour of this unisex aesthetic. It is primarily for these consumers that I have created recommendations. However, some recommendations may be applied to the Conscious consumer because as long as unisex remains “on trend” this group will be interested. This being said, it is key to remember that this group are fickle and will move on fairly quickly when the time comes.

Identifying unisex.

If unisex represents neutrality then it can be assumed that unisex is therefore diluting one’s masculinity or femininity. I have found that this is responsible for the misinterpretation of the term unisex. It isn’t that consumers are inferior to diluting down their masculinity or femininity, it just means that an association between unisex and the opposite sex has arisen. With almost half of males thinking unisex is more feminine and a massive 67% of females thinking unisex is masculine, the perceptions differ with gender. Likewise, the focus groups were divided by sex when establishing what item of clothing is more feminine. So while stereotypes are clearly well understood by each consumer, Nakiska thinks that more people are looking for “freedom from gender” (2014)

Don’t push the boundaries. Designers may see a vision and critics might be able to recognise it, but for everyday consumers the gender extremes of JW Anderson and Astrid Andersen are still boundaries pushed too far. In the article by Nakiska (2014), JW Anderson commented that ‘in modern culture, if it’s about gender then it’s a very dated concept’ (Anderson 2014:Online). To some degree I agree with this statement, but as my research has taught me, stereotyping is still very much happening. The fashion authorities focus group highlighted the question “how can it not be about gender?” especially when Anderson’s designs are at such extremes of femininity. A female respondent implied that she could get away with wearing her partners clothes, but she ‘would never expect (him) to wear an entire outfit’ of hers. It is apparent that designs that have been so often worn by women will then create the unwritten rule that certain items are ‘women only’. So as expected this research has informed my opening recommendation, or rather, an initial warning. The average consumer isn’t ready yet for gender extremes by any sense of the imagination. Even the more open-minded fashion students didn’t understand this approach to design. It has cemented the idea that whilst unisex is currently very safe in design and shape, it is for good reason.

Nakiska says it is ‘very easy to label clothing “masculine” or “feminine” but that’s to miss the point’ and people ‘should focus on the clothes’ (2014). I feel this was evidenced within my street style photography. Simply before any research conclusion was made, I noticed that the respondents had trouble answering my question with regards to their personal masculinity or femininity. One respondent highlighted to me that she’d never been asked before, and possibly never considered it. Maybe there is some truth in what JW Anderson says about a dated look on gender. Perhaps nobody looks on the gender of their clothing at all, that’s why they wouldn’t know how to rate their style. Throughout studying this topic, I didn’t meet one consumer who could give me definitive answer, admitting that they were making a gender statement through their clothes. I have found that if an item appeals to the consumer they aren’t concerned with the gender it is intended for. Furthermore, the main motivation behind why people dress the way they do, is quite simply, style. Whether somebody is trend-conscious, a trendsetter or possibly not concerned with trends at all, I am yet to find a deeper meaning that affects clothing choices. Many respondents from different parts of my research have repeatedly said that they ‘just like the aesthetic’ and I believe this is the reason that nobody looks upon gender when shopping.

The brands should... The brands who offer a unisex aesthetic, or wish to aspire to a unisex way of thinking need to be extremely clear and concise when marketing this appeal. My research has shown that brands that currently offer unisex don’t have a fully consistent and clear way of marketing unisex. I have recognised that some brands want to offer a unisex aesthetic more so than offering only unisex clothing. Similarly, it has been seen that consumers aren’t objecting to the genderless look, unisex changing rooms don’t faze them, and if anything they’re trying to remove gender from the equation altogether. With this in the mind, brand need to create a solid message and stick with it. As before highlighted, the target consumer has the qualities of ‘The Creator’ archetype. The consumer who has a preference for unisex also has qualities of ‘The Explorer’. So brands must appeal to personality traits such as the imaginative, expressive and non-conformists. The product should have simplicity and enduring value, a timeless quality and the store should also be simplistic, contemporary looking, with a sense of freedom of choice. It is for this reason that I think more stores should offer clothing for men, women or both within the same department. This of course won’t work for all consumers, such as the Traditionalists. But stores that have a unisex aesthetic can open up to consumers by not restricting the areas they can look. Only 9% of males buy women’s clothes more often than ‘sometimes’, possibly because they never look in the women’s shops or sections to see what is on offer. Understandably, more females buy men’s clothes with 33% buying more often than sometimes, but still only 7% said that they regularly do. Unisex clothing offers a stigma-free product and so stores must offer a similarly stigma-free environment.

My research has concluded that majority of consumers do not know where to look for unisex product. The brands that do already offer unisex need to take note of this outcome to improve the way they appeal to the market. I think brands such as American Apparel, who I have looked at within this research, can integrate their unisex product more in the women’s department. With consumer’s saying that the label of the item doesn’t matter, it could even be that American Apparel wouldn’t need to label their product “womenswear”, “unisex” or “menswear”. This could potentially encourage more customers to choose any clothing rather than feeling restricted. Other should integrate their product completely. This brand aims to achieve a unisex approach to design and the best way to enhance this is to further create a unisex aesthetic within store.

Fig 21: Urban Outfitters Store, Ellie Ward: Own Image, 2014

Fig 22: Urban Outfitters Store, Ellie Ward: Own Image, 2014

However I am applying these recommendations to the brand Urban Outfitters. Urban Outfitters already has many points of difference, with highly quirky and visually stimulating stores (see figure 21-22). The brand already offers interchanging departments, has a strong appeal for couples and some other branded unisex products. Therefore I think there could be an opening for Urban Outfitters to release an own label unisex range. According to the report by Stylus on the future of store environments consumers are adopting a search-and-find mentality (2013). Urban Outfitters already offers a maze of product ranging from homeware, gifts, books and quirky extras from the minute a customer walks through the door right up until the till point. However the female and male departments are still divided between floors. When speaking to a female Urban Outfitters customer, the respondent said that she always looks within the men’s department also (Alexandra, 2014). It would be a lot easier for this consumer to search for clothing whilst displayed all together. Stylus further suggests that layout should champion discovery and chance over traditional marketing (2013). Unisex product intertwined between male and female products embodies the idea of discovery. A customer can search and find any item that they like without being encouraged into a certain shopping route or department.

In Context... This advice isn’t going to stop designers, brands or consumers creating gender stereotypes. It isn’t going to create a genderless community that creates groundbreaking statements through their clothes. It also isn’t a recommendation that is the make or break for the unisex aesthetic. The unisex that is on offer and currently appreciated by some consumers is already making a certain amount of impact. Though my recommendations can increase awareness of unisex clothing, help target a new audience better, whilst further reaching the current consumer on a level that hasn’t yet been reached. It is important not to discard ‘The Traditionalist’ consumer groups, they are not against unisex, and they quite simply haven’t come round to that way of thinking yet. As for ‘The Conscious’ as long as unisex clothing is on trend, this consumer group will be interested. So it is key to keep the unisex aesthetic going.

As men and women begin to cast off traditional gender roles, new opportunities are opening up for brands to widen their appeal through genderless packaging and unisex products. Stylus, 2013

Figures List Figure 1: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, Author Unknow, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-ASTRIDAND Figure 2: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, Author Unknow, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-ASTRIDAND Figure 3: Astrid Andersen Mens A/W14, Author Unknow, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-ASTRIDAND Figure 4: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, Author Unknown, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-JWANDERSON/ Figure 5: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, Author Unknown, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-JWANDERSON/ Figure 6: JW Anderson Mens A/W14, Author Unknown, 2014. Available at: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2014MEN-JWANDERSON/ Figure 7: Other-Shop product, Author Unknown, 2013. Available at: http://www.other-shop.com/about Figure 8: Other-Shop interior, Author Unknown, 2013. Available at: http://www.other-shop.com/about Figure 9: Other-Shop product, Author Unknown, 2013. Available at: http://www.other-shop.com/about Figure 10: Other-Shop exterior, Author Unknown, 2013. Available at: http://www.other-shop.com/about Figure 11: Survey Results by Ellie Ward, Own Image, 2014. Figure 12: American Apparel Customers by Ellie Ward, Own Image, 2014. Figures 13-20: Streetstyle Photography by Ellie Ward, Own Images, 2014. Figures 21: Urban Outfitters Store by Ellie Ward, Own Images, 2014. Figures 22: Urban Outfitters Store by Ellie Ward, Own Images, 2014.

References Alexandra, 2014. American Apparel Customer Interview. Direct Message on Twitter. 07 January 2014. Analytical Team, Department of Health. 2013. Birth Rates in the UK. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/ file/200527/Gender_birth_ratio_in_the_UK.pdf. [Accessed 08 January 14]. Anderson, J.W, 2013. High-end fashion designer: Interview with M.H. Healy for The Guardian, 1 July 2013. Chapman, C.C, 2013. Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Other shop collaborates with Lee Jeans. The Guardian, [Online]. 1, 1. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/sharpened-lead/2013/ aug/08/london-other-collaborates-lee-jeans [Accessed 04 January 2014]. Craik, J.C, 2009. Fashion: The Key Concepts. 1st ed. London: Berg, Oxford International. Crane, D.C, 2000. Fashion and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Social Agendas: Class, Gender and Identity in Clothing. 1st ed. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press. Davies, M.B.D, 2007. Doing a Successful Research Project: Using Qualitative or Quantitative Methods. 1st ed. Hampshire: Palgrave Macmillan. Furniss, J.F, 2013. J.W Anderson Review. Style.com, [Online]. 1, 1. Available at: http:// www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2013MEN-JWANDERSON [Accessed 07 January 2014]. Healy, M.H, 2013. The Radical Unisex Designs of JW Anderson . The Guardian, [Online]. 1, 3. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2013/jun/01/radical-unisex-designsjw-anderson [Accessed 19 September 2013]. Hourani, R. 2013. About Rad. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.radhourani.com/pages/ about. [Accessed 06 January 14]. Howard, 2014. American Apparel Customer Interview. Direct Message on Twitter. 08 January 2014. Maria, 2014. American Apparel Employee: Interview with Ellie Ward, American Apparel Nottingham, 04 December 2014. Menkes, S.M, 2014. Crossing Gender Boundaries Again. New York Times Fashion Review, [Online]. 1, 1. Available at: http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/08/fashion/In-LondonFashion-Crosses-the-Gender-Boundaries.html?src=recg [Accessed 07 January 2014]. Murphey, M, 2013. Other co-founder: Interview with C. Chapman for The Guardian, 08 August 2013. Nakiska, T.N, 2014. Opinion: Is Fashion Over Gender?. Dazed and Confused, [Online]. 1, 1. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/18462/1/opinion-is-fashionover-gender [Accessed 17 January 2014].

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