Size Matters

Panerai treads new ground with the smaller-sized Luminor Marina Quaranta.

Words: Wei-Yu Wang

PANERAI’S LUMINOR MARINA QUARANTA (S$10,100) has a diameter of 40mm, which would be considered midsized by today’s standards – for most brands, that is. For the Italian luxury watch manufacturer, however, it sits on one end of the spectrum due to its unique heritage.

After all, large has always been a key part of its DNA. When making watches for the Italian navy, as the brand did in the 1930s, legibility was paramount. The archetypal Panerai is something between 44mm and 47mm in diameter. The hefty sizing, along with the muscular profile of its signature cushion-shaped case and prominent crown guard, served the brand well through the turn of the 21st century as statement-making watches came into fashion, attracting adherents such as Sylvester Stallone and a whole generation of Ferraristis.

But things appear to be changing. It could be due to a resurgent interest in vintage styling and its corresponding sizing. It could also be because of a widening audience in Asia or a growing female customer base. In any case, the Quaranta has it covered.

The key Luminor styling elements are undisturbed, though the reduction makes them balance a little differently. The crown guard is more prominent, for example, while the dial has less negative space and the date window hence more significant. It is available in three new references: a white dial, a black dial and a sunray blue dial, all with stainless steel cases and leather straps. The Luminor Marina Quaranta also features a quick-change strap system. Options promised for the near future include lightweight rubber in a spectrum of colours. It is equipped with the workhorse P.900 self-winding calibre, which boasts a three-day power reserve and the brand’s customary shock resistance.

Panerai has gone as small as 38mm in the past, in the form of the Luminor Due. That, however, is a decidedly different and dressier collection. The Quaranta, as part of the Luminor Marina line-up, is more robust with 100m of water resistance.

While the iconic 44mm Luminor is not going anywhere, the Luminor Marina Quaranta is set to replace the existing 42mm references. The increased wearability and versatility that it affords bring the Luminor to a wider audience while embodying all the key essences of Luminor, making it a true Panerai.

This and facing pages: the Luminor reinterprets classic proportions in a contemporary manner, preserving all the characteristics that over the years have made this watch an icon of luxury sports watchmaking.