Beyond The Ordinary

Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012 and Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque 2006 vintages are a great way to kick off the new year.

Words: Justin Choo

FOR MANY, THE brut is often what defines a champagne house. The weight of expectation lies squarely on its rounded shoulders; the acid test to determine if one should mark the label as worth revisiting.

But when it comes to the esoteric and the whatifs, the true marker of elegance lies in the Blanc de Blancs, the purest expression of Chardonnay.

The Réserve Brut is perhaps the definitive Telmont: an exuberant effervescence that is rounded off by a moderate body and minerality with perfectly balanced acidity. It’s a profile that you can never tire of. The Réserve Rosé and the Vinothèque are counterpoints that show off a different side of Telmont. But to get to the heart of Telmont, the Blanc de Blancs is the key to understanding its allure.

Hence, among the offerings that are available through Rémy Cointreau in Singapore, the Blanc de Blancs 2012 (S$118) is an exceptional representative of the Telmont style. For the benefit of the non-oenophiles, 2012 was a significant year of interest. It was a difficult one for vineyards, marked by an extreme climate. However, the particularly harsh winter, wet spring and battles with mildew combined with an unexpected hot summer, resulting in an exceptional harvest marked by unusual levels of acidity and sweetness.

To no one’s surprise, the critics enjoyed Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012: 89 points from La Revue des Vins de France (2021), a gold medal from Mundus Vini (2021) and fifth place in Tastingbook’s Top 10 Vintage Blanc de Blancs (2021).

Our own positive experience was somewhat similar, and the 2012 vintage stood out from an already impressive line-up of albeit limited Telmont offerings that are available locally.

Its distinct buttery character is what strikes you first, followed by a faint, sweet, fruity nectar and a hint of nuttiness. With Blanc de Blancs, haste is waste – take your time to let the champagne open up. The richness of its body is accentuated by delicate floral notes as well as peaches and citrus fruits. The minerality and salinity add a savoury dimension to the champagne.

I cannot forget Telmont CEO Ludovic du Plessis’s passionate effusiveness when he spoke about the ethereal nature of his champagne, and at times I wonder if I had been moved by the power of his conviction more so than an olfactory assault when I tasted the Brut and the Rosé. But with the Blanc de Blancs swirling around my tongue, I doubted no longer.

Truth be told, I’d loathe to even consider a pairing for this and I should be so inclined to enjoy and appreciate it as it is. The prospect of an oyster pairing is faultless, and yet it bores me. Put on rockabilly-era Imelda May, leave me alone and leave the bottle behind.

If the 2012 Blanc de Blancs sounds divine to you, then there is another vintage to look forward to this year – the Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque 2006 (S$315), which arrived in Singapore this January.

The Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque is the creme de la creme of the pure Chardonnays, where only the best crop from the Côte des Blancs make the cut. Only the first press fraction – the cuvee – is used as it represents the purest juice from the fruit. Rich in sugar and acids, the cuvee is notable for its ability to transcend into wines with finesse and excellent ageing potential.

Cellar-aged to perfection for 14 years, the Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque bottles are still, as per tradition, riddled by the hands of an expert cellar master before they are disgorged. The result is a delightful Blanc de Blancs characterised by its elegance and underscored by a freshness and complex vanilla.

Tasting notes for Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque 2006 from Telmont

Nose The first nose gives way to fleshy peach with a hint of white tobacco, followed by a burst of vanilla and toasted toffee.

Palate The first mouth is a vivacious palate of exotic fruit, pineapple, mango and pear, with a lifted acidity and lychee finish.

Recommended pairing Elegantly aged Parmesan.