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Beyond The Ordinary Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012 and Blanc de Blancs Vinothèque 2006 vintages are a great way to kick off the new year. Words: Justin Choo
P H O T O G R A P H Y : C H A M P A G N E T E L M O N T.
FOR MANY, THE brut is often what defines a champagne house. The weight of expectation lies squarely on its rounded shoulders; the acid test to determine if one should mark the label as worth revisiting. But when it comes to the esoteric and the whatifs, the true marker of elegance lies in the Blanc de Blancs, the purest expression of Chardonnay. The Réserve Brut is perhaps the definitive Telmont: an exuberant effervescence that is rounded off by a moderate body and minerality with perfectly balanced acidity. It’s a profile that you can never tire of. The Réserve Rosé and the Vinothèque are counterpoints that show off a different side of Telmont. But to get to the heart of Telmont, the Blanc de Blancs is the key to understanding its allure. Hence, among the offerings that are available through Rémy Cointreau in Singapore, the Blanc de Blancs 2012 (S$118) is an exceptional representative of the Telmont style. For the benefit of the non-oenophiles, 2012 was a significant year of interest. It was a difficult one for vineyards, marked by an extreme climate. However, the particularly harsh winter, wet spring and battles with mildew combined with an unexpected hot summer, resulting in an exceptional harvest marked by unusual levels of acidity and sweetness. To no one’s surprise, the critics enjoyed Telmont’s Blanc de Blancs 2012: 89 points from La Revue des Vins de France (2021), a gold medal from Mundus Vini (2021) and fifth place in Tastingbook’s Top 10 Vintage Blanc de Blancs (2021).
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022