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completefrance.com

TIME OUT Planning and funding a grown-up gap year in France

Look on the bright side of life in Occitanie

YOUR GUIDE TO

TOP OF THE RANGE

Pension plans French taxes

COMFORT AND JOY Celebrating the festive season in an elegant apartment in Paris

REAL LIFE

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PROPER T Y

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PLACES

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ADVICE

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Issue 334 December 2018 £3.99

Mountain living in the Alps and Pyrénées

INSIDER INFO

Welcome Decorating inspiration for the festive season (p54)

I

have very fond memories of my year abroad. Looking back now, I can see it’s what cemented my love of France. Of course, hindsight is a wonderful thing. At the time, living in a small village in the Vosges mountains wasn’t without its challenges and standing in front of a class of French teenagers trying to teach them English wasn’t always easy either, but it was a wonderful opportunity and one that taught me a lot about myself.

While I’ve often thought I’d like to have that experience again, Amy Jones has been busy making it happen. This month she shares her experiences of planning and preparing for a year abroad in France with her husband and two young sons (p48), and you can follow her subsequent adventures in Deux-Sèvres in our new diary series starting next month. Note to self: it’s never too late for a grown-up gap year.

Speaking of challenges, would you be brave enough to put your pâtisserie skills to the ultimate test to

© POLLY ELTES / NARRATIVES

Contributors

Amy Jones

Tries a grown-up gap year, page 48 Favourite French Christmas tradition: Christmas just isn’t the same without delicious chocolatey Papillotes scattered on every surface. They are an essential part of a real French Christmas.

completefrance.com

gain a professional French qualification?

Louise Sayers decided she was and you can find out how she fared on page 34. I might try making her pear and almond tart recipe as an alternative to Christmas pudding this year.

Yes, the festive season is upon us once again and Catherine Turner’s beautifully decorated Paris apartment certainly isn’t lacking in seasonal cheer (p54), while our columnist Janine Marsh is getting into the Christmas spirit on page 98. She’s also looking forward to returning to The France Show in January – turn to page 46 for our special ticket offer.

If you’re short on gift inspiration for the Francophiles in your life you’ll find plenty of ideas on page 13, and you might just be tempted to treat yourself to something too.

Joyeux Noël and Bonne Année to you all.

Sophie Gardner-Roberts Visits Pyrénées-Orientales, page 22 Favourite French Christmas tradition: I love the idea of the French Réveillon – a massive family gathering on Christmas Eve where everyone enjoys good food and drinks until the early hours.

Vicky Leigh, Editor

Louise Sayers Writes Sweet Dreams, page 34 Favourite French Christmas tradition: The amusing Catalan tradition of the caganer who pops up in nativity scenes! You can buy ‘celebrity’ caganers from Donald Trump and the Queen to Peppa Pig and Yoda.

December 2018 Living France 3

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Contents

ISSUE 334 DECEMBER 2018

Where to live

22 Pyrénées-Orientales

Where to live: Pyrénées-Orientales

Soak up sunshine and Catalan culture in the sunny south of France

28 A local’s view Tanya Joseph relocated to Perpignan and sells glorious French fabrics from her online vintage store, Pomme de Jour

30 Ask the agent Eve Maltese of Beautiful South shares her inside knowledge of the property market in Pyrénées-Orientales

32 On the market Our selection of homes for sale across Pyrénées-Orientales to suit all budgets

33 Fact file The essential information and contacts you’ll need for a life in Pyrénées-Orientales

22 42

38 Among the giants The ski slopes of France attract millions in winter, but life in the mountains is magical all year round

WIN!

Lifestyle

A copy of Clarice The Chicest Mouse in Paris p13

34 Sweet dreams A British baker attempts to master the art of French pâtisserie to take her one step closer to opening a tea shop in France

42 Dress to impress Paris, the fashion capital of the world, inspired one woman to train to become an image consultant

48 Grown-up gap year Who says you have to be a student?

One couple proves it’s never too late, even with a young family in tow

On the cover This month Collioure, Pyrénées-Orientales © George Munday/Alamy Stock Photo

34

THE ESSENTIALS to 70 Guide French taxes The main taxes you will have to pay on your income and French property

72 Taxes – vocabulary

76 Brexit factor How the UK’s vote to leave the EU has impacted currency transfers

78 Pension plans

for all 82 Homes budgets Small or large, we’ve picked out six sensational homes

84 Route map

Essential vocab and phrases to help beat the jargon

The issues to be aware of if you’re considering transferring your UK pension to a QROPS

All the routes to France in one place to help you plan your journey across the Channel

74 Q&A: Ask the experts

80 Property and currency news

86 Property directory

Expert advice on driving licences, lease agreements and planning zones

The latest from the French property market, including buying trends

A guide to the buying process, plus properties for sale and to let in France

COVER STORIES

6 Living France December 2018

completefrance.com

82 62

54 XX A la maison 54 At home for Christmas How expats living in Paris have turned festive decorating into a family tradition

60 Gardening The Napoleonic associations of a stunning form of ivy, plus an Open Garden in Haute-Vienne

62 Flavours of France How to make chocolate financiers and the pick of the best three wines of the year

Language 65 Language news We review the latest language books and try out new French phrases

66 Five-minute French Test your French with our puzzles

13

p98

p54

What’s new

p48

8 December in France

p20

p22

14 Postbag Your views of life in France

On the map this month

16 Your photos We share your snaps of France

We also publish FRENCH

Issue 334 | December 2018 | £3.99

NEWS

THE BIGGEST AND BEST UK GUIDE TO FRENCH PROPERTY

PROPERTY

29

years of French property advice

18 Moving diary

BARNS, SCHOOLS, CHAPELS...

CHRISTMAS IN FRANCE

Fiona Flint reflects on her family’s first year in France

A home for all seasons

It’s the most wonderful time of the year!

Are you ready to be converted?

expert

advice Lettings special Renovation focus insight Latest hotspots Fraud preventio Brexit moves n

Get the most from your French property – in winter as well as summer!

200+PROPERTIES FOR SALE INSIDE

€339,200: Loire Valley

€112,750: Brittany

€44,000: Creuse

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BUYING GUIDES

20 Our dream home Staff Writer Brigitte Nicolas is struck by a charming house in Charente

98 Christmas spirit While rural France goes easy on bright lights, Janine Marsh finds it’s still full of festive cheer

●

REAL LIFE STORIES

●

LOCATION FEATURES

LE TOUQUET BREAK A CHIC WEEKEND BY THE SEA

●

●

francepropertyshop.com

LEGAL & FINANCE

DRIVING LE LOIR TAKE A SCENIC ROAD TRIP

TRAVEL | FOOD & WINE | CULTURE | HISTORY

XXXXX

December 2018 | Issue 243

WALKING WITH GIANTS

Bon appétit!

Meet the Géants of Douai

Edible gift ideas to stay Foodie places Dining in La Plagne Festive treats

Nice & Isola does t Sun and ski in one trip

SPECIAL BREWS

Discover the craft beers of the beautiful south TALKING TOQUES UNCOVERING THE STORY OF THE ICONIC CHEF’S HAT

TAKE A STROLL VISIT THE COBBLED MEDIEVAL STREETS OF CONFOLENS

Britain and North America’s best-selling magazine about France

£3.99

Our pick of this month’s stories from our website completefrance.com

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p60

The latest news from France plus the events taking place this month

17 Online highlights

See page 52 for more details

p38

FRENCH PROPERTY NEWS The biggest and best UK guide to buying a French property, with expert legal and financial advice.

FRANCE Britain and North America’s biggest-selling magazine covering everything about French culture, travel and food & wine.

December 2018 Living France 7

8 Living France December 2018

completefrance.com

r e b m e Dec If you go to only one Christmas market this year, make it Strasbourg, the capital of Christmas, which is home to the oldest festive market in France dating back to 1570. With its magnificent Christmas tree, pretty illuminations and wooden chalets brimming with gifts and edible delicacies, it attracts visitors from all over the world and runs until 30 December. noel.strasbourg.eu/en Read on to find out what else is happening in France this month.

completefrance.com

December 2018 Living France 9

Š EMICRISTEA/GETTY IMAGES

in France

WHAT’S NEW

News & events

The stories from France that have been making headlines, plus the latest reviews, travel news and dates for your diary, by Brigitte Nicolas

Listen...

Room at the inn ‘Tis the season of goodwill to all. With the seasonal temperature drop, winter can be a dangerous time for people who are homeless. This year, Anne Hidalgo, Mayor of Paris has announced that Paris town hall will open its doors to some of the 3,000 people in the city needing night shelter. She has also encouraged businesses with empty premises to make them available to those in need of a place to sleep.

In Montpellier, in the south of France, it is

students that have found themselves a new type of home. A scheme has been piloted where 11 students are staying in renovated apartments on the grounds of EHPADs (nursing homes for dependent elderly people) across the city. The students pay a low rent (between €140-250 per month) and in return befriend and interact with the elderly residents and help them with everyday tasks. The scheme aims to reduce the loneliness and isolation that care home residents can face.

Brexit update Brexit continues to breed uncertainty. The UK Chancellor Philip Hammond has announced the autumn budget, which will be the last UK budget before Brexit, but has also said an emergency budget would be necessary if there is no

10 Living France December 2018

deal on Britain’s exit from the EU. Support has grown for there to be a ‘people’s vote’ on the deal with 700,000 people marching in London in October and the Mayor of London Sadiq Khan backing the idea. In the meantime, many British people living in

France have taken the step to seek French nationality, with 1,370 people applying for citizenship in the first six months of 2018. This is a vast increase when compared to only 386 Britons applying for citizenship in 2015, before the EU Referendum.

to Effet Miroir

by Zaz According to the French singersongwriter, Zaz’s new album Effet Miroir (Mirror Effect), in which she hopes listeners can find and recognize themselves, is about “accepting all facets of ourselves and their paradoxes”. This is reflected in the mixed music style throughout the album which includes elements of French chansons, South American guitars, pop, salsa and rock.

The first single from the album Qué vendrá (What will come) is sung in both French and Spanish and is an upbeat anthem for those who want to embrace life, come what may. Zaz will perform in the UK in May 2019.

WIN!

We have three copies of Effet Miroir to give away. To enter visit completefrance.com/ competitions

The closing date for entries is 26 December. Effet Miroir by Zaz, Warner Music France.

CLEARING THE AIR Further measures to tackle pollution are being introduced in France. Paris has expanded its ‘Paris Respire’ initiative to include the city centre. Roads across the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th arrondissements are now car-free on the first Sunday of the month, from 10am-6pm, which falls this month on 2 December. More information is at paris.fr/parisrespire.

France may also be introducing congestion charges for vehicles in cities with more than 100,000 people. Car drivers would have to pay €2.50, or €5 in bigger cities like Marseille, Nice and Lyon. The law is to be voted on by the end of the year.

completefrance.com

Travel NEWS AIR FRANCE STRIKE DEAL After months of strikes, Air France management and unions have announced that they have reached a deal. Five unions – which represent 76.4% of the airline’s employees – have accepted an offer of a 2% pay rise which will be back-dated to January 2018. The strikes have set the airline back €335m.

CARS ON DEMAND

Les Français for the win Christelle Brua, head pastry chef at Le Pré Catelan in Paris, has been named the world’s best restaurant pastry chef

by Les Grandes Tables du Monde – a global association which was founded in Paris in 1954. This is the first time a woman has been awarded the title.

Another French chef, Paul Pairet won restaurateur of the year.

And from perfect pâtisserie to

precise physics –French scientist Gérard Mourou has won a Nobel Physics Prize for his work with optical lasers, which has advanced corrective eye surgery.

Gérard shares the prize with Arthur Ashkin and Donna Strickland.

Turn to page 34 to read how one British woman went about mastering the art of French pâtisserie.

© ALEXKICH / GETTY IMAGES; YANN_ORHAN; KRYSSIA CAMPOS / GETTY IMAGES; AFNOR

NEW TODDLER FOOD LOGO Parents in France can now look out for a new logo (pictured below) to help them select food for their babies and toddlers. The logo indicates that food products meet a new standard, which takes into account the nutritional needs of 0-3 year olds as well as applying strict safety standards. The voluntary NF V90-001 standard was developed and created by The French Syndicat de la Nutrition Spécialisé and AFNOR, a standardisation group. More information and nutritional advice can be found at alimentationdutoutpetit.fr

completefrance.com

FRANCE SHOW TICKETS ON SALE

Drivers in Paris will soon be able to rent cars by the minute, anytime, 24 hours a day, through car2go. Customers can use an app to locate, reserve and rent cars and when finished can drop the car anywhere within designated ‘home areas’. The fleet of cars will be 100% electric.

DRIVERLESS TRAINS SNCF and its partners are starting work on prototype driverless trains, which they are hoping to finish by 2023. While the Paris Métro already uses driverless vehicles, this will be the first long distance train in France to be driverless and will require new considerations. The hope is that automation can make the train system in France more fluid.

The francophile event of the year will be at Olympia London, 25-27 January 2019. The France Show brings you the best of France – food, wine, property, holiday ideas, travel offers and entertainment – all under one roof. Tickets available now at thefranceshow.com.

Turn to p46 for our special reader offer.

HAIL A RIDE

The iconic London black cab is coming to Paris. The London Electric Vehicle Company (formerly the London Taxi Company) is in negotiations to send a fleet of its electric black taxis to Paris in the first half of 2019.

Amsterdam became the first foreign destination to use the black cabs in 2017, the same year that the taxi company switched to producing its new electric model.

December 2018 Living France 11

WHAT’S NEW DECEMBER

Dates for your diary Make the most of everything France has to offer in December, with our round-up of key events, festivals and travel news

2018

HIGH ALTITUDE CINEMA

FILL YOUR STOCKING Baubles and festive illuminations will adorn the already beautiful Alsatian town of Colmar this month, turning it into a fairytale wonderland for the Colmar Christmas Market – voted the 2nd best Christmas Market in Europe in 2017. It is open daily for six weeks from 23 November to 30 December.

Several mini market villages make up

the experience, including a craft market at the Koïfhus, a market dedicated to local products at Place Jeanne d’Arc and the ‘Petite Venise’ market which will have a giant mailbox for letters to Santa Claus. Markets stalls will stock a mix of Christmas decorations, gifts and culinary delights. noel-colmar.com

Strut your stuff Épernay will dress to impress on 14-16 December for the Habits de Lumière.

The festival includes parades, exhibitions, and champagne bars – a must as Épernay sits in the heart of champagne country. Friday and Saturday nights on the Avenue de Champagne will have a stunning parade with people in costume and illuminated animated objects carried and controlled by people underneath as they travel through the town. There

12 Living France December 2018

will also be fireworks and musical entertainment.

During the daytime there will be food and wine workshops and tastings. To

finish the festival, the final parade on the Sunday will be made up of more than 400 vintage cars. habitsdelumiere.epernay.fr

Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Les Arcs Film Festival will once again have a rich and exclusive selection of films, shown 16-23 December at Les Arcs ski resort in Bourg-Saint-Maurice in the French Alps. There will be eight screening rooms around the resort showing about 120 films in total during the daytime. The films will all be European and will include 10 films in the official competition for a ‘Crystal Arrow’ award, as well as short films, feature films, documentaries and films for a younger audience. At night there will be parties, special events, concerts and DJ sets. And, of course, this can all be intermixed with time on the slopes enjoying the first snows of the year. lesarcs-filmfest.com/en

HE’S COMING TO TOWN Saint-Nicolas is the patron saint and protector of children as well as a name inextricably linked to Christmas.

This year the town of Nancy, Grand Est, in the north-east of France, is celebrating the saint in Les Fêtes de Saint-Nicolas à Nancy from 23 November to 6 January 2019, with the main activity weekend on 1-2 December.

During this weekend there will be street performances, rides, games, concerts, a spectacular sound and light show and a grand procession.

During the rest of the festival there will be a Christmas market, a big wheel, an ice rink and colourful illuminations in the town. saint-nicolas.nancy.fr

completefrance.com

1 2 SEE PAGE 52

for our subscription offer

4

3

Gift Guide Find the perfect presents this Christmas for the Francophiles in your life

THIS PAGE: © MARKS AND SPENCER; YOYO AND FLOW LEFT HAND PAGE: @ AMZPHOTO / GETTY IMAGES; MANUEL MOUTIER /LES ARCS FILM FESTIVAL; MICHEL JOLYOT / VILLE D’EPERNAY

5

7

WIN! Claris The Chicest Mouse in Paris

by Megan Hess

This beautifully illustrated children’s book by acclaimed fashion illustrator Megan Hess would be a fantastic gift for a young francophile or an older fashion-loving francophile in your life. We have one copy to give away. The closing date for entries is 26 December. To enter visit completefrance.com/competitions

8 9

6

1: Living France subscription, £25.99 from subsave.co.uk/LFXMAS 2: Emma Bridgewater Paris mug, £19.95, emmabridgewater.co.uk 3: FRANCE Calendar 2019, £11.99 from subsave.co.uk/C159 4: See Amanda’s Wines at the France Show: Sancerre Blanc, £16.50, St. Nicolas de Bourgueil, £11.83, amandaswines.co.uk See 5: Fawn soft toy, £29.50, yoyoandflo.com 6: Claris: The Chicest Mouse in Paris, £12.99, hardiegrant.com 7: Fleurs de France home collection, £17.50, marksandspencer.com 8: PhotoCity Paris, £14.99, lonelyplanet.com, 9: France is a Feast: the photographic journey of Paul and Julia Child, £24.95, thamesandhudson.com completefrance.com

December 2018 Living France 13

WHAT’S NEW

Facebook...

THIS MONTH ON

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We love hearing from you, so why not write us a letter, send us an email, or join in on Facebook or Twitter?

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A man who painted his house in blue, white and red after France’s World Cup win has been asked by the mairie to remove the paint. What do you think about bright house decorations?

Mary Swann A bit of an eyesore in my opinion Christine Wilson He should keep his house like that Paula McMullan He probably forgot to ask permission from the mairie in the first place since you need big brother to approve even painting your shutters!

CONNECT WITH EXPATS Join our Facebook group ‘Living in France’ to connect with other English-speaking expats and share advice on all aspects of moving to and living in France.

To join, visit

bit.ly/LivinginFrance 14 Living France December 2018

O

– the ladies in chic French fashion while some of the farmers wore their best blue overalls.

The Brass Band Lorient Bretagne Sud is well-known for performing each year in the Inter-Celtic Festival held in Lorient, which is visited by 700,000 people from all over the world.

The concert was most enjoyable and did include MacArthur Park, a firm favourite of ours! Towards the end, I somehow grasped the translation “Un air traditionnel écossais joué a la fin de l’annee” nudged my husband and whispered “I bet this is Auld Lang Syne” and lo and behold, a lone piper entered through a side door playing the very tune, letting in all the evening sunshine.

A perfect ending, with a bit of Britain in the middle of the Breton countryside.

Glenys Alice Ellis Bolton, Lancashire

THIS MONTH’S STAR LETTER WINS The writer of our Star Letter this issue wins a garlic and ginger grater set. These attractive handmade ceramic graters are gift-boxed and include a garlic peeler and brush. gingerandgarlicgrater.co.uk

completefrance.com

© SYLV1ROB1/GETTYIMAGES; JEAN PIEL; ALTITUDE DRONE / GETTY IMAGES

WE ASKED YOU . . .

ur recent month’s stay in Brittany included 15 and 16 September which are Journées du Patrimoine in France.

I had already seen on the internet that St-Connec was holding a brass band concert in the church on the Sunday evening, and while posting it on Living France Facebook, I arranged with the Mayor to reserve seats.

In addition, I sent an email to the conductor requesting an English composition be played if possible, as we would be there on holiday.

St-Connec is the neighbouring commune to Hémonstoir where we used to live, and so, not only as brass enthusiasts did we eagerly anticipate the concert, but it also gave us the opportunity to see old familiar faces.

It was quite an event for the population of around 288 and the church was packed

STARER LET T

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Follow us @LivingFrance

Toulouse is a great option for those looking for the buzz of a town with amazing countryside on the doorstep

Yes

No

On the town

Twitter poll @LivingFrance We asked our followers…

I read my October issue of Living France from cover to cover, as I always do – it’s my inspiration for our move to France. While I’ve always dreamed of living in a historic little village somewhere like Dordogne, I found myself fascinated by the Paris feature.

I’d never considered a city – Paris is for weekend breaks, not full-time living.

Or so I’d thought. I kept finding myself

daydreaming of an apartment in the capital. Walks along the Seine, endless retail therapy, never running out of new restaurants to try, trendy bars...

At the weekend, we went to our favourite local French restaurant – we always go there when we need a France fix. I broached the subject of a city move and found my husband surprisingly agreeable. We talked for hours, and have decided that while Paris might be a step too far, we’re going to seriously consider some smaller FRANCE SHOW TICKETS ON SALE French cities, where there’s more Enjoy a fabulous French day out going on to keep us occupied. So in the heart of London. As well as the thanks Living France for a new Flavours of France stage and Wine Theatre, injection of inspiration! make sure to pick up some delights at the Name supplied

French Market where Ginger & Garlic Grater Ltd will be among the inspiring stallholders.

Follow us @livingfrance

Two Belgian teachers want a grammar rule relating to the verb avoir to be changed to make learning easier – do you think it should?

@ianmodmoore I’ve had some high pressure gigs in my time but cooking breakfast for eight French people is right up there. @France.fr It’s official: the first snowfall of the season has turned the French Alps into a Winter Wonderland!

Our pick of

If you have something to

share

from anecdotes to holiday snaps, drop us a line at letters@livingfrance.com or write to The Letters Editor, Living France, Cumberland House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB. We reserve the right to edit your letters. Sign up to our newsletters at completefrance.com

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We loved this beautiful photo of an archway in St-Cirq-Lapopie by @anja_fall

TURN OVER to see some of your photos December 2018 Living France 15

WHAT’S NEW

Your

photos

Email us your photos of France (with captions) to pictures@livingfrance.com

On the Arête du Ratier on Mont Obiou, Isère Chris Ainsworth

2CVs all in a row at Moissac Michele Bond

The stunningly beautiful Albi, Tarn Sam Ellis

Beautiful Riquewihr Scott Friars

My husband with Monsieur Hulot!

Deborah Scarrott

16 Living France December 2018

See more photos of France on our Instagram account @livingfrance

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WHAT’S NEW

on CompleteFrance.com You’ll find even more to read on our website – here are just a few of our favourite articles that have featured online this month Living in France

Travel 8 FAMOUS PAINTINGS OF FRANCE AND THEIR REAL-LIFE INSPIRATIONS France has long been a muse for artists but do the locations that inspired the likes of Monet and Van Gogh still look as picturesque today? Monet’s garden in Normandy certainly is...

We can’t say we’re surprised! Quality of family life is one of the reasons expats in France rate the country so highly in a study about their lives overseas.

French property

You’ll be amazed at these holiday homes under €50k

facebook.com/ livingfrancemagazine

completefrance.com

What a bargain, and they’re all in move-in condition!

From a one-bedroom apartment on an enclosed complex in Charente to a converted train station in DeuxSèvres (yes, really), your money really does go a long way.

Living in France

Harvest season in France Some amazing photos of the récoltes and vendanges have been shared on social media and we’ve picked some of our favourites.

Language & culture

AGNÈS POIRIER ON PASSION IN PARIS

We went along to the Cheltenham Literature Festival to hear the French author talk about her new book, which explores the history of Paris.

at COMPLETEFRANCE.COM/NEWSLETTER

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December 2018 Living France 17

© DALIIU / GETTY IMAGES; FONDATION CLAUDE MONET GIVERNY; KOBEZA / GETTY IMAGES; CHELTENHAM LITERATURE FESTIVAL

Expats in France are happier with their lives

WHAT’S NEW

Diary of a move In the final chapter of her diary, Fiona Flint reflects on her first year in France and she couldn’t be happier that she made the move

W

ell, the time has come. This is my last ‘Diary of a Move’ column! We have been in France for over a year now, and we are starting to feel like part of the furniture.

It has been a rather hectic year for us with the purchase of two properties, the new addition to our family, navigating the bureaucracy and language and settling in to our new community. I thought it would be nice to end on a high, and summarise some of the aspects of our new life that we are enjoying the most.

COMMUNITY SPIRIT There is no doubt that I feel more a part of the community in our hamlet in France than I have anywhere else that I have lived previously. We have been made to feel so welcome, and not a week goes by without a neighbour popping by to say hello. There are endless community events, and there is always a reason for an apéritif or two! I have no doubt that my neighbours would come to my aid if ever needed, and that is quite a comforting thought when my husband works away so often.

HEALTHCARE While having to make use of healthcare isn’t necessarily enjoyable, it is certainly something that I have been incredibly impressed with since moving to France.

I have never had a baby in the UK, but I

cannot praise the healthcare I received during and after my pregnancy in France enough. I found it to be incredibly thorough and staffing and resources to be abundant. Any concerns I or the medical staff had have been addressed immediately and I have never had to wait for anything. My experiences with the French healthcare system have filled me with confidence should we ever have to address any serious health issues in France in the future.

Exploring the local area

LIFESTYLE Our main reason for moving to France was to enjoy a more outdoor lifestyle, with fewer of the stresses and strains associated with the UK life we had come from. I am pleased to confirm that we have definitely achieved that!

The climate in the area that we are now located in is perfect for us pale Scots, with the summer heat tempered by proximity to the Pyrénées mountains. The summer extends into beautiful, warm autumns and there is enough snow in the winter to satisfy our ski legs.

There is a huge array of outdoor activities and we are out walking and exploring constantly. With so much to do in our area it is easy to forget that France is a huge country, and we are very much looking forward to exploring the other beautiful areas that are on our doorstep in the future.

It has been a pleasure to share our journey with you and I hope that my column has been interesting and enjoyable. If you would like to see what we get up to in the future, please do continue to follow us on Instagram – you can find us under @notre_vie_en_france.

Bonne chance to those of you soon to make the move – you won’t regret it!

n to the family The new additio

Here is my final top tip: DO IT! Make the move! I am so glad we did and I know we would have regretted not giving it a shot. Life is for living, and not just working. This is a sentiment that the French live by (hence the long lunch breaks!), and we are fully embracing it.

NEXT MONTH

The first week in our new home

18 Living France December 2018

Fiona Flint moved to a small hamlet in Haute-Garonne with her husband Andrew in 2017

Our new diary series follows one family’s grownup gap year in France

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December 2018 Living France 19

WHAT’S NEW

THIS MONTH’S DREAM HOME

ON THE MA R K E T F O €279,000 R

“There is a luxurious modern feel to the interior which is impressive for the price”

I

– SAYS STAFF WRITER BRIGITTE NICOLAS

t was the grandeur of this threebedroom house in Châteauneufsur-Charente that struck me first, standing proudly in the centre of its plot, while the large white square panelled windows and the pastel blue shutters add a delicate prettiness to the property. From the first floor I could take in the beautiful views of the river Charente, which I would take many afternoon strolls along.

There is a luxurious modern feel to the interior which is impressive for the

20 Living France December 2018

price. The kitchen and living room have a grey and white colour scheme and I love the stylish red touches, the sleek kitchen is fully-fitted with a central island and a large double sink and the living room has a wood-burning stove.

Upstairs, the largest bedroom has its own en-suite shower room – something always high on my list of must-haves.

While the two other bedrooms are also good size doubles.

If I lived here, though, I would need to find myself a good gardener to keep

the grounds in shape. The garden is exceptionally well groomed, laid to lawn with many trees and shrubs and two wells, which give the space added quirk.

A superb bonus with this property is I would never need to worry about parking again. I could park in the garage next to the kitchen, or the large outbuilding on the side of the garden or the gravel courtyard which itself has room for several cars. On special occasions I’d fill all the spaces with cars and the house with friends. charente-immobilier.com

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WHERE TO LIVE

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s r u o l o c

True 22 Living France December 2018

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Departmental préfécture Perpignan is a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire

Keen to experience life in the sunny south of France but without the crowds and prices of the Côte d’Azur? You could always consider Pyrénées-Orientales, says Sophie GardnerRoberts as she soaks up sunshine and Catalan culture in neighbouring Occitanie

T

Pyrénées-Orienta les

AT A GLANCE

28 30 32 33

Case study An expat tells her story Ask the Agent Expert property advice On the market A round-up of homes for sale Fact file Useful info and contacts

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he south of France means different things to different people. For some it is the mesmerisingly blue waters of the Côte d’Azur or the sound of the cicadas trying to keep cool in the baking heat of Provence, for others it’s the swirling waves crashing against the Atlantic coast around Biarritz or the Cathar villages and castles of the old Languedoc region.

But there is another south of France.

You’ll find it in Pyrénées-Orientales, now part of the Occitanie region and it is the department’s history and heritage that set it apart. It sits, in fact, at the country’s most southern point, on the border with Spain and has a coastline on the Mediterranean. It is one of the few French departments to boast long sandy beaches, rocky coastal coves, a vast agricultural area, sweeping planes, mid-range mountains and high-altitude peaks, all within the same territory.

Until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, it was part of the Principality of Catalonia within the Crown of Aragon and therefore part of the Kingdom of Spain, and before that it was part of the Kingdom of Majorca. The province was annexed to the French territory in 1659 and renamed ‘Roussillon’, its old, historical name.

Finally, during the French Revolution of 1790, it was named PyrénéesOrientales but despite the attachment to France and efforts to gallicize its people, inhabitants remained resolutely attached to their Catalan roots.

This eventful past is still evident today in the cultural heritage of PyrénéesOrientales: the department is also known as Catalogne Nord (northern Catalonia), Catalan is spoken relatively widely and even taught in local schools and of course its shared border with Spain introduces plenty of Spanish influence, not least in the local gastronomy.

SEA OR SNOW So, a fascinating cultural heritage and a varied landscape provide a very diverse lifestyle in Pyrénées-Orientales and expatsto-be have plenty of choice. The coast is mostly made of long, flat, white sandy beaches, loved by families, and dotted with seaside resorts such as Argelès-surMer, St-Cyprien and Canet-en-Roussillon.

The beaches are several kilometres long so you rarely have to fight for your place on the sand and there are plenty of waterbased activities and sports to enjoy on the gentle sea of the Med. From the port of Collioure, the Côte forms a series of jagged rocky bays until it reaches Spain. It’s a beautifully preserved coastline where you’ll find little fishing harbours and vineyards dipping their roots almost right into the sea.

The south-eastern part of the department is dominated by the lush Albères Massif, low forest-topped mountains which boast some short but calf-straining hiking paths, with farreaching views of the coast and, of course, the Pyrénées mountains – a wonderful reward for your efforts. The Parc Naturel Régional des Pyrénées Catalanes spreads over most of the western section of the department but the Pic du Canigou, the highest point in the area at 2,785m, is ever visible, even from the coast, daring you to reach its snowy summit.

A view of the Pic du Canigou

December 2018 Living France 23

WHERE TO LIVE

s Pyrénées-Orientale

TOWNIE OR COUNTRY The largest town is Perpignan, the departmental préfecture, home to just over 118,000 people. What the suburbs lack in charm and character the old centre more than makes up for, and has earned the town a listing as a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire. Dominated by the Palace of the Kings of Majorca, the historic centre is made up of narrow, winding cobbled streets and boasts lots of parks and fountains, while two rivers – la Têt and la Basse – slice through it. Being relatively small and compact, it’s ideal for exploring on foot.

Landing in Perpignan 10 years ago was the spark that ignited Caroline Manson’s love for the area. As a long-term Francophile, Caroline knew she would live in France one day and a trawl through budget airlines landed her in PyrénéesOrientales. “We started off with a lock-upand-leave apartment in Perpignan’s town centre which is a great central location with easy transport links to the beach, the mountains and Spain,” she explains.

Working as a property finder, one day Caroline came across a villa with a hectare of land and in need of considerable renovation work. She didn’t show it to her clients and the next thing she knew, she had bought it. “From being a real ‘townie’ I now love nothing more than walking in the countryside with the dogs, and have almost swapped my stilettos for wellingtons!” she says. “I was a bit nervous about how the local ‘Catalan’ villagers would accept an English woman, but they could not have been friendlier, and I even ended up playing in the local tennis tournament – in the men’s team!”

Caroline is now an independent property consultant (perpignanproperties.com), helping the Englishspeaking community with anything property-related, from holiday rentals and sales to purchases and renovations.

The other communes of PyrénéesOrientales are mostly small; few towns exceed 10,000 inhabitants so if a rural, country life is what you seek, this could be the area of France for you.

Above: Enjoying a leisurely stroll along a quiet street in Collioure Left: The terraced vineyards where AOC Banyuls sweet wine is produced

MORE ONLINE Learn more about the Occitanie region with our complete guide completefrance.com/regions-of-france

24 Living France December 2018

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OPENING PAGES © G. DESCHAMPS; IMAGE2ROMAN / GETTY IMAGES THESE PAGES © SATILDA / GETTY IMAGES; IMAGE2ROMAN / GETTY IMAGES; CC BY 2.0 JAVIER LEIVA

Trails for hiking and mountain biking abound in the area and the lower ranges and foothills of the mountains make these accessible to all fitness levels. There are six ski resorts in Pyrénées-Orientales, mostly in the west, located at an altitude between 1,500m and 2,700m. The ‘Neiges Catalanes’ ski pass provides access to all six resorts. In the winter, you could easily be skiing in the morning, sunbathing on the coast in the afternoon and back for dinner at home in the same day.

For those wanting to see the mountains at a gentler pace and in comfort, the iconic Petit Train Jaune (Little Yellow Train) takes passengers on a breathtaking scenic journey up to the Catalan Pyrenees. The 63km-long train line is the highest in Europe and serves 22 stations between Villefranche/Vernet-les-Bains/Fuilla and Latour-de-Carol/Enveitg.

5 REASONS TO LIVE IN PYRÉNÉESORIENTALES LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION Proximity to Spain, beaches on the Med and Pyrenean mountains means you’re unlikely to ever get bored

TASTY FOOD The area is blessed with a delicious mix of French and Catalan cuisine

VILLAGE LIFE Pyrénées-Orientales is home to four of France’s Plus Beaux Villages: Castelnou, Eus, Evol and Villefranche-de-Conflent

CLIMATE The port of Collioure with views of the Château Royal and the St-Elme fort

The Château Royal dominates the harbour where colourful fishing boats bob in the water Perhaps the best known village (and a very sought-after location) is the charming port of Collioure. With its recognisable small round tower and the Château Royal dominating the harbour where colourful Catalan fishing boats bob in the water, it is famous for its delicious anchovies and the port area is busy with tourists. Venture up into the steep streets and you can find respite from the crowds as well as perfect views of the little bay.

Inland, you’ll find sleepy villages such as Laroque-des-Albères and Sorède that have more of a Pyrenean mountain village feel, yet are just 15 minutes from the sea.

ARTY OR FOODIE In the early 20th century, Collioure also played host to a number of artists who were attracted to the exceptional light and colours that bounce off the hills, beaches and sea. While the little port was a centre for Fauvism art – there are several galleries and a museum in Collioure – Céret, about 35km west, is said to be the birthplace of Cubism. Artists including Georges Braque

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and Picasso spent several years in this modest village which became a major artistic centre. It is set in France’s most southern valley, the vallée du Vallespir and now houses a museum of modern art of national importance as well as several art galleries. As a sous-préfecture, with the businesses and administrative jobs this brings with it, Céret offers all the amenities you need but remains tranquil and pleasant with large plane trees providing welcome shade in the summer months. Visitors are drawn to the castle and regularly stop to look at the impressive Pont du Diable (the devil’s bridge).

As an area steeped in history, there’s a wealth of heritage sites and monuments to see throughout Pyrénées-Orientales, from Neolithic sites to Vauban fortifications such as the one in Salses, in the north of the department. For those who need a cultural fix, your calendar will be packed with events and festivals to enjoy: Les Déferlantes, a big music festival held in July in Argelès or Ida y Vuelta, a free music festival showcasing local talents

With an average 2,464.9 hours of sunshine each year, Perpignan basks in almost as much sunshine as Nice on the Côte d’Azur

AFFORDABLE HOMES While the average property price in Alpes-Maritimes (home to Nice) is €417,300, the average in PyrénéesOrientales is just €170,000

e catalane Traditional crèm

The ageing proces s of

Banyuls sweet wine

December 2018 Living France 25

WHERE TO LIVE

s Pyrénées-Orientale

in Perpignan, while Prades hosts the annual Catalan Summer University. For theatre buffs and concert-goers, Perpignan has plenty of halls and stages such as El Mediator and the Théâtre de l’Archipel.

Catalan traditions are celebrated annually too, including Perpignan’s Sant Jordi open-air book fair in April and the Sanch Procession held in several towns on Good Friday. Foodies can head to Collioure’s anchovy festival or the Dionysiades, a celebration of wines from the Agly valley in May. Speaking of food, local specialities abound here. Anchovies, marinated or salted, are found around Collioure; around the corner sweet fortified red wine is produced in the Banyuls vineyards; further up, the Muscat de Rivesaltes is a sweet white wine best sipped with dessert or a strong cheese. The land is peppered with fruit trees heavy with juicy apricots, peaches and cherries. Dishes are heavily inspired by Catalan influences and generously flavoured with spices and herbs, and who hasn’t closed their eyes and sighed with delight when tucking into a creamy crème catalane?

CATALAN CHARACTER While the sea, mountains and proximity to Spain originally attracted Steven and Denise Brady to Pyrénées-Orientales, it was the friendliness of the locals and the history of the area that ultimately won them over. After visiting the area for 25 years, the couple moved to Céret in

Above and below: The charming cobbled streets are lined with colourful houses

January this year now that their children have flown the nest, and they are loving every moment of their time.

“We’ve tried every region of France and this is our favourite,” they explain. “We are particularly interested in this region’s strategic role during times of conflict and the migration of people across the border.

“The local people are open and friendly, and very down-to-earth. We feel this part of France is very similar to north-west England, only with fewer factories and chimneys, better beaches and a warmer climate! We’ve decided to live in France so we want to live like the French, otherwise it’s just England with more sunshine.”

Steven and Denise are rugby enthusiasts and eagerly follow rugby league. The sport is very popular in the area and Perpignan’s league team, the Catalan Dragons have been performing well, plus there are always some good amateur games to watch too.

With its exceptional location and environment, Pyrénées-Orientales seems to be the perfect place for those who like the good things in life and want a flexible lifestyle which gives them the chance to do something different and new every day.

“It never ceases to amaze me how diverse the area is – sandy beaches, vineyards and orchards, lakes and rivers, and, of course, the snow-capped Pyrénées in the distance; not forgetting the ‘dutyfree’ shopping just over the border in Spain!” says Caroline Manson. “I can’t imagine living anywhere else.”

TURN OVER For an expat’s story of running an online vintage store from Perpignan

26 Living France December 2018

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13 bis rue de Nesmond | Bayeux

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WHERE TO LIVE

s Pyrénées-Orientale

s local’ view A

Vintage fan Tanya Joseph moved to Perpignan 15 years ago where she runs online French boutique Pomme de Jour, specialising in French textiles, ephemera and collectables What were you doing before you moved to France and what prompted you to make the move?

I was a full-time mum to three girls and pregnant with my fourth when we decided to move to France. We lived in Plumstead, south-east London where my husband had (after three years of studying) just become a black cab driver. Although we enjoyed our lifestyle, we felt like a change and wanted to do this before our eldest turned 11. We knew with my husband’s work that we could live where we wanted as he was willing to commute.

Did you know the area well already?

Yes fairly well, we visited the area for at least six years before finally deciding to relocate here. We had many French friends and enjoyed visiting them all when we were over as a family.

What attracted you to the PyrénéesOrientales department?

My husband holidayed in Vivès as a young child with his family and had a very strong connection with the area. He also had a handful of French friends from his bachelor days and had kept in constant touch with them. They were instrumental in us finding the house of our dreams here.

How long have you lived there now?

We have been living in Perpignan for almost 15 years. We spent five years in our first property and almost nine years in our second home, which I purchased after my divorce. I live here with just my youngest daughter now and our French bulldog as my other three girls have left home.

Did you find it easy to find a suitable property in the area?

Yes, we had a lot of help from our friends living in Perpignan who found us our dream home and helped with the purchase.

What do you most enjoy about living in this area?

The weather has to be first and foremost!

We have pretty good weather here all year round. Of course we do have spells of bad weather and grey skies, but it never lasts long. Secondly, the cycle routes. I gave up driving my car last year and cycle absolutely everywhere, so getting around and about safely for me is a priority. The proximity of the sea in the summer and the mountains in winter needs a mention and, finally, the flea markets and vide greniers that I am surrounded by, which are instrumental to my business.

Where do you find your beautiful vintage French fabrics?

I find my fabrics mostly at my local vide greniers and flea markets. Occasionally

28 Living France December 2018

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PHOTO © TANYA JOSEPH

When did you set up Pomme de Jour?

I started Pomme de Jour in 2014 but I have been selling vintage fabrics in various guises since 1999 and have had my Etsy shop since 2008.

Right: Tanya Joseph at home in Perpignan Left: The amazing vintage fabrics are sourced from vide greniers and flea markets Bottom left: Pomme de Jour also sells a wide range of vintage home goods, magazines and books

from charity shops and online. I am always searching for fabrics and also have a few contacts here that I can count on.

What has been your favourite discovery?

It’s hard to say what my favourite discovery has been with so many amazing fabrics that I have found over the years. However, I was once standing at a stall waiting for the stallholder to get everything out of his truck. He came over to me and emptied a black bin bag at my feet and I bent down and picked up the most perfect pair of antique curtains with a bird design. That is the beauty of my job.

What are your bestsellers?

My bestsellers are my vintage scrap packs and my antique quilt pieces, after that it would be my individual lengths of vintage fabrics, depending on what I have in the store. My stock is changing all the time.

Where is your favourite market?

I like all my local markets, but my favourite is Brocante les Platanes on a Saturday

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“Make sure you have thought of everything, especially how you are going to earn money if you need to” morning in the centre of town. I have been doing this for so long l know a lot of the dealers and can always get a good deal.

Is there any aspect of living in PyrénéesOrientales that surprised you?

Yes, the Tramontane! Never underestimate the Tramontane (northern wind)! It can get very blustery here! I’m still not used to it, it can make bike riding very tricky!

What advice would you give to expats thinking of moving to the area?

Do your research – we holidayed in the area for six years before deciding to move here. Make sure you have thought of everything, especially how you are going to earn money if you need to. Be realistic – there will be ups and downs and, although I love living here, the grass is not always greener! Life can be very slow in this region and if you are not prepared for that or want it, then it can be a shock. Finally, learn some French. I had very little knowledge of the language when I arrived. I picked up the basics very quickly, but it would have helped me if I’d learnt a bit more before I left the UK. etsy.com/uk/shop/Pommedejour instagram.com/pommedejour

TURN OVER for a local estate agent’s view

December 2018 Living France 29

WHERE TO LIVE

ASK THE AGENT

s Pyrénées-Orientale

Anyone wanting to live a Mediterranean lifestyle should consider the stunning PyrénéesOrientales says Eve Maltese of Beautiful South

know?

Did you

quite difficult to find. If you How much are the most want true peacefulness you expensive and cheapest can’t have lots of amenities properties that you The area is heavily influenced too close by. have for sale? by its Spanish history and The most expensive property proximity to Spain and What are your predictions we currently have for sale is many people speak the for the property market a stunning 19th-century castle Catalan language in Pyrénées-Orientales designed by the famous architect in the coming months?

Petersen priced at €2,250,000. Our Our area is quite stable in terms of cheapest at the moment are a pretty village house and a charming one-bed holiday prices. I don’t expect that the market will change much in the coming months. apartment, both on sale at €90,000.

Can you tell us something about the architecture in Pyrénées-Orientales?

The local architecture has Spanish influences, with authentic farmhouses and village houses made of stone, wood and cayrous bricks. In Perpignan we have quite a few buildings in Art Deco and Hausmannian styles.

Apart from France, where are your buyers from?

We have some buyers from the UK, but less so since Brexit. We also have German, Belgian and Dutch buyers.

What do expats tend to want to buy?

We find that expats are looking for properties with gîtes or B&B businesses.

What’s the most unusual request that you have had from a client?

One odd, yet common request we have from clients is that they want to be in a quiet environment but within walking distance from all the shops, restaurants, bars, which is

Why do you think people want to buy property in Pyrénées-Orientales?

Our area offers a lot. Some people buy here because of the ski and sea resorts and the proximity to Spain. The area also has different landscapes, culture and gastronomy, wines, and an interesting history and even a prehistory. Furthermore, there are many well recognised international events in and around the area, such as Les Déferlantes in Argelès, Electrobeach in Barcarès, Visa pour l’image in Perpignan, Folklores du Monde in Amélie-lesBains and more.

What would you say is the best thing about living in Pyrénées-Orientales?

There is always something to do here. There are superb places you can go to without having to spend money because beauty is free, and there is a lot of beauty to discover or re-discover in the Pyrénées-Orientales. I recommend that anyone wishing to live the Mediterranean lifestyle comes and discovers this area for themselves.

WHAT COULD YOU EXPECT TO PAY FOR...

THREE-BED TOWNHOUSE? Around €250,000 (more if there is a garden)

DETACHED PROPERTY IN GOOD CONDITION? Around €320,000

RENOVATION PROJECT? Around €120,000 (depending on size and location)

OFFICIAL FIGURES Average house price

€170,000

Average apartment price

€1,700/M2 PERPIGNAN

Average house price

€162,000

Average apartment price

€1,130/M2

CANET-EN-ROUSSILLON Average house price

€220,000

Average apartment price

€2,780/M2

ARGELÈS-SUR-MER Average house price

ON THE MARKET

€2,700/M2

MOUNTAIN VIEWS This character village house has a terraced garden with a pool, an outdoor kitchen area and beautiful views of Canigou mountain. Inside there is an open-plan kitchen/lounge, a second lounge on the first floor, four bedrooms, a shower room, an office and a laundry room.

30 Living France December 2018

€190,000

Average apartment price Source: Notaires de France

know?

Did you

Pyrénées-Orientales is home to many fruit filled orchards with trees bearing peaches, apricots, apples and cherries

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December 2018 Living France 31

WHERE TO LIVE

ON THE MARKET

s-O tiorinentales oca PyrénLée

From seaside homes to converted wineries PyrénéesOrientales has a diverse range of properties on offer

1

€151,000

If you are moving to the south of France to be close to the sea, this furnished home is superbly located only a fiveminute walk to the beach in St-Cyprien Sud. The compact two-bedroom property has an open-plan kitchen, a lounge, shower room, balcony and patio, a pool and space for a car. A converted garage offers extra space.

St-Cyprien has a lagoon, a beach, lovely walks, plenty of amenities and a sports centre within a short distance. beautifulsouth66.com

4

€274,000

Set in nearly 650m² in a quiet cul-desac in Le Soler – just a few minutes from the lively city of Perpignan, this detatched three-bedroom house has a spacious living/dining room, separate kitchen, two WCs and a basement. Outside, there is a large covered terrace, a large garage and a well – to irrigate the garden’s grass, planted trees and shrubs. The house has tiled flooring throughout, the building is in good condition but may need some decor updates. artaxa.com

32 Living France December 2018

2

€170,000

Bright, colourful and quirky, this surprisingly large renovated property has three bedrooms in the main house and a further two bedrooms in a studio –which has its own entrance and would be ideal to rent out as a holiday home. The property is within walking distance to the village’s restaurants, bakery, pharmacy, doctor, and grocery shop. The main property has a kitchen-living room and a pretty courtyard – a great setting for eating al fresco. beauxvillages.com

5

€503,500

In the heart of a famous wine producing village, this unusual converted wine cellar comprises a modern kitchen, dining area, living space and separate lounge on the ground floor. There are four double bedrooms and a family bathroom on the first floor, a mezzanine space with another living room and an office area. On the top floor you’ll find a large room currently for storage with stunning views and potential to be turned into an en-suite bedroom. home-hunts.com

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for our fact file on Pyrénées-Orientales

3

€230,000

Exposed stone and wooden beams create a rustic feel in this threebedroom house in rural Ria-Sirach.

The large courtyard offers plenty of room for socialising, family meals and just soaking up the sun, while boasting beautiful views of the surrounding hilly green landscapes. Inside, there is a living and dining area with openplan kitchen and two bathrooms – one with a sauna. The property also has a garage and a large workshop. maisonindividuelle.co.uk

6

€892, 500

With an indoor swimming pool, conservatory, gym/games room, landscaped garden and three bedrooms, this truly remarkable character home in a converted winery in St-Cyprien is only 10 minutes from the beach. The large modern living space has a large eye-catching wood-burner at its centre and the kitchen has modern appliances and a central island. The property could provide a great opportunity or holiday business for a restaurant. sextantfrance.fr

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WHERE TO LIVE

FACT FILE

Pyrénées-Orientale s

Department: PyrénéesOrientales Region: Occitanie Capital: Perpignan

If you’re drawn to the Mediterranean Sea as much as the Pyrénées mountains, Pyrénées-Orientales offers the best of both worlds with natural wonders, heritage and culture aplenty in this corner of the south of France Rivesaltes Perpignan Prades

POPULATION 482,131 Source: insee.fr

CLIMATE Perpignan Average minimum temperature: 11.4C Average maximum temperature: 20.1C Av. number of rainy days: 54 Av. number of sunny hours: 2,464

EDUCATION School term dates Pyrénées-Orientales is in Zone C education.gouv.fr League table of schools linternaute.com/ville/ lycee/pyrenees-orientales/ departement-66

WORK AND BUSINESS CCI de Perpignan et des Pyrénées-Orientales Quai de-Lattre-de-Tassigny BP 10941 66020 Perpignan Tel: 04 68 35 66 33 pyrenees-orientales.cci.fr

Le Clos des Lys 660 chemin de la Fauceille 66100 Perpignan Tel: 04 68 56 79 00 closdeslys.com La Voile 9 Route de Port-Vendres 66190 Collioure 06 34 89 01 95

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GETTING AROUND

Find your nearest CPAM at allocpam.fr/pyrenees-orientales-66 and your nearest CARSAT at carsat-pl.fr

MARKETS EXPAT GROUPS Association France Grande Bretagne This long-running association was founded in 1916 and offers lunchtime debates, visits to exhibitions and trips to strengthen the relationship between Britain and France.

The network of associations, including one in Perpignan, has around 2,500 members. association-france-grandebretagne.fr

Perpignan There is an annual Christmas market in Perpignan (marché de Noël) taking place this year from 23 November to 6 January 2019. Located at Quai Vauban, it features around 35 little wooden huts selling artisan products and Christmas gifts. Children can visit Father Christmas or post a letter to him. The Christmas market is open every day from 10.30am to 8pm and until 9pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

By train: The popular tourist railway line of the Yellow Train is a great way to access the Catalan Pyrénées. It serves 22 stations along 63km of track from Villefranche/Vernet-lesBains/Fuilla up to Latourde-Carol/Enveitg and offers stunning views.

Tel: 04 68 96 63 33 By bus: The bus network of Perpignan CTPM is heavily subsidised so this is great way to get about cheaply. You can get a bus from Perpignan to Collioure and Céret and even up to the ski resorts for an average tariff of €2.10 for a return trip.

GETTING THERE Ladies in Languedoc LIL is an anglophone expat support group for ladies living in, thinking of moving to, or who have strong ties to the Languedoc region, now known as Occitanie. The group was started in 2013 and has a sister group LIPS Ladies in Perpignan. facebook.com/groups/LILS34

PROPERTY WHERE TO EAT

Céret

HEALTHCARE AND SOCIAL SECURITY

Chambre départementale des notaires des Pyrénées-Orientales 21 boulevard Clemenceau 66000 Perpignan Tel: 04 68 35 14 79 notaires.fr/fr/chambredepartementalenotairepyreneesorientales-66

Céret This medieval village, south of Perpignan, holds a colourful weekly Saturday market which boasts a strong Catalonian flavour and is considered one of the best in the region.

Stallholders spread out around the streets of the old town selling everything from cheese and wine to fresh fruit and vegetables.

Banyuls-sur-Mer In July and August the seaside town of Banyuls-sur-Mer comes alive with a craft market every evening in rue St Pierre from 7pm to midnight. It also has a brocante every Friday around the harbour during the summer months. As well as seasonal events, it also has a regular market all year round every Thursday and Sunday morning in the rue du 14 Juillet and rue St Sébastien.

By plane: Ryanair offers cheap flights to Perpignan from London Stansted. During the summer Ryanair also offers flights from Birmingham. You can also fly once a week from Perpignan to Southampton with Flybe.

By train: You can travel on Eurostar from St Pancras International in London and will have to change trains either at Paris or Lille. Perpignan train station is located in the centre of the city and the journey takes between eight to 10 hours.

USEFUL WEBSITES Tourist information: tourisme-pyreneesorientales.com Conseil départemental: pyrenees-orientales.fr

December 2018 Living France 33

LIFESTYLE

Sweet dreams ARE MADE OF THIS Can a British baker master the art of French pâtisserie? Louise Sayers had six months to find out if her pastry skills were good enough to gain her a professional qualification and take her one step closer to opening a tea shop in France

M

y first foray into cooking, aside from knocking out fairy cakes with my mum, was a GCSE in food and nutrition, during which I spent two years producing stuffed jacket potatoes, quiches and apple pies under the stewardship of the inspiring Mrs ‘Someone’s onions are burning’ Golightly. It was one of my favourite subjects, but my highly academic school considered such practical

subjects a waste of talent and for A levels I was steered towards my other passion: languages. I don’t regret the decision – I’m proud of my degree in French and Spanish, and delighted that it has enabled me to live in the sunny south of France and work as a troubleshooter providing help for nonFrench speakers in the area. However, the cooking bug has never left me.

I’ve long harboured a dream of opening a tea shop here in France and converting the French, who find the idea of an English

person who can cook a highly amusing one, to the delights of scones, millionaire’s shortbread and lemon drizzle cake.

But the French take their pâtisserie very seriously. You can’t simply start baking in your own kitchen and see how it goes. In fact, even a general cooking qualification won’t cut it. I know this because I spent six gruelling months at chef school gaining a Titre Professionnel Cuisinière believing it would be the ticket to a thriving cake business, only to be refused by the Chambre de Métiers when I went to register as a pâtissière (see my top tips!).

It turns out that to make and sell cakes over here you have to have a minimum of a CAP (Certificat d’Aptitude Professionnel) specifically in pâtisserie. The CAP is the exam that school leavers take at the age of 16 if they want to choose a specific vocation, equivalent to a BTEC in the UK. There is a dazzling array of CAPs to choose from including hairdressing, fishmongery, furniture making and even the making of prosthetic limbs!

Local CAP pâtisserie courses required two dedicated years of my time but, with the small matter of a living to earn, I couldn’t commit to that so I found an online school called YouSchool. It provided

34 Living France December 2018

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ILLUSTRATIONS © L0NGTIME / GETTY IMAGES PHOTOS © LOUISE SAYERS

PROFESSIONAL QUALIFICATIONS

a comprehensive syllabus tailored to the CAP, so I handed over €900 and signed up to take the exam in June 2018 as a candidat libre, or external candidate. I had just six months to get to grips with the finer points of French pastry via a distance-learning course designed to take three times that long. I cracked on!

Learning pâtisserie is all about building blocks. You must master the basic different types of dough – shortcrust, choux, flaky, brioche and the yeast-leavened, butterdrenched viennoiserie dough which is used to make croissants and pains au chocolat. Then there are the different types of sponge (confusingly called biscuits in French) as well as mousses, creams, caramel, syrups and icing. And then you learn how to put them together to make the classic French pastries that are famous around the world.

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT For six months I whisked, beat, kneaded and rolled, learning the differences between génoise and joconde sponge, millefeuille and Moka, Pithiviers and ParisBrest. I tried to be disciplined and practice every day following the order of the lessons as recommended by the school.

Online learning of practical skills presents certain challenges compared to actually being in a physical classroom – your tarte piémontaise might look good but no one can tell you if your technique is correct or if the taste is good. However I took photos of every stage of the production of a recipe and posted them on the closed internet forum for comments from YouSchool’s very demanding and patient pâtisserie teachers, as well as fellow students around France and beyond. The community was really friendly and supportive and we all learnt from each other’s mistakes.

My kitchen was overflowing with sweet treats which, despite valiant attempts, my husband and children simply could not consume. I started giving them away to friends, neighbours and even strangers, which was a heart-warming lesson in the power of food to make new friendships.

But it wasn’t all about the baking. I also had to learn all about the technical aspects of food – the specific roles played by each ingredient in a recipe, the names and exact temperatures of the eight stages sugar passes through on its way to becoming caramel, how to temper chocolate, safe storage procedures and temperatures and, of course, rigorous hygiene practices.

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Louise Sayers took on the French pâtisserie challenge – and won

For six months I whisked, beat, kneaded and rolled, learning the differences between génoise and joconde sponge, millefeuille and Moka, Pithiviers and Paris-Brest JUDGEMENT TIME In April I had the pleasure of visiting beautiful Versailles for a mock exam with the YouSchool chefs and some of my fellow students. Well, my visit to the jawdroppingly stunning gardens of Versailles was pleasurable (if you haven’t been, go!), the mock exam less so. Only four months in, I knew I still had a lot to learn but I wasn’t prepared for the brutal truth.

The chefs halted the mock after an hour declaring that not one of us was proficient enough to pass the CAP in 2018!

I decided to sit the exams this year anyway figuring that it would be an informative trial run. First up were the written exams. Not just culinary technology but also maths, science, French and history/geography. I kid you not. My UK degree certificate was rejected as proof that I have a decent level of education and because I couldn’t track down my A level certificates I had to sit all the general subjects expected of 17-year-old vocational students in France. Aside from sticking out like a middle-aged sore thumb, the exams seemed to go reasonably well.

The same could not be said of the practical which was a seven-and-ahalf-hour sweaty marathon in the professional kitchens at the Chambre de Métiers under the close MasterChefsevere scrutiny of four terrifyingly contemptuous French pâtissiers.

December 2018 Living France 35

LIFESTYLE

TOP TIPS Research carefully before starting any food business in France.

Misinformation abounds and the rules can be interpreted differently from one department to the next.

Visit your local Chambre de Métiers or Chambre de Commerce for definitive answers on what is permitted before you do anything else.

If you want to open a pâtisserie business but don’t have a CAP qualification you can hire a qualified pâtissier to run your kitchen.

You can register to make dry cakes and biscuits that can be stored in a tin without the CAP but you will not be permitted to make any product which needs to be kept chilled, so you cannot work with fresh fruit, cream etc.

A two-day hygiene and food safety course (stage hygiène alimentaire HACCP) is mandatory if you wish to run a food business. These are offered by the Chambre de Métiers as well as private establishments. Mine cost €250.

For perfect pastry use a pastry ring and a perforated baking tray – you’ll never have a soggy bottom again!

36 Living France December 2018

Louise plans to sell Englishstyle cakes in the tea shop she hopes to set up

Yes, I am proud to say that I am a fully fledged French pâtissière. The irony being that I don’t actually want to make and sell any French pâtisserie!

First up we had 30 minutes to produce a meticulous seven-hour time plan for the production of four different pastries – a chocolate and raspberry shortcrust tart, a Rio Carnival-themed raspberry entremet with layers of cake and mousse, raspberry glands (tear-shaped choux pastries with fondant icing) and brioche buns topped with orange crumble. Then it was into the fray.

It did not start well. Pastry doughs of all kinds are best worked in cool conditions, not south of France 30-degree heat. With brioche, the aim is to work the gluten in the dough until it is elastic enough to produce a thin veil when stretched between the fingers. But my brioche dough wasn’t playing ball and, after what seemed like endless kneading, I panicked at already being behind schedule, scraped the sticky, sorry mess into a ball as best I could and stuck the lot in the blast chiller to firm up, trying to ignore the Monica Galettiesque raised eyebrows of the jury.

SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS What I can only describe as sixand-a-half-hours of Armageddon baking followed. On the rare occasions that something went to plan there wasn’t a jury member in sight, yet as soon as I ripped my shortcrust pastry due to overzealous

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Why not visit the French market at The France Show and pick up pâtisseries from Le Petit Frenchie?

Tarte Bourdaloue

(PEAR & ALMOND TART) INGREDIENTS This will make a 22cm tart For the pastry: 100g plain flour (sifted) 50g softened butter 80g icing sugar (sifted) 1 small egg Pinch of salt For the almond cream: 75g butter 75g sugar 75g powdered almonds 1 egg 6 tinned pear halves Handful of flaked almonds 3 tbsp apricot jam

MAKE THE PASTRY

rolling or greased my pan instead of lining it there were four pairs of disapproving eyes dissecting my every move.

There were some positives from the exam. I got all four subjects out on time, albeit with mere seconds to spare, and I didn’t cry! These were outweighed by a disastrous catalogue of negatives including sarcastic comments from a jury member on the state of my worktop, brain freeze in one of my 15-minute oral exams, shine-less fondant on my glands, crumble dripping off poorly risen brioches, a shudderinducing clash between pink raspberry mousse and my Rio-themed green and yellow entremet decoration… I wasn’t feeling hopeful.

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And yet… the magical word admis appeared by my name on results day.

Yes, I am proud to say that I am a fully fledged French pâtissière. The irony being that I don’t actually want to make and sell any French pâtisserie!

So what next? Well, that is the question that has been bouncing around my brain since the summer. In spite of all the hard work to get the CAP, it now feels like the easy part to achieving my dream. I am currently poring over figures, wading through reams of rules and regulations and working out just how to launch English-style cakes on the good people of Perpignan where I live.

Watch this space…

Louise Sayers is a troubleshooter and provides help for nonFrench speakers in France france-sos.com

GET IN TOUCH! Louise is keen to set up an English-style tea shop in Perpignan and would love to hear from anyone who might be interested in going into business with her. You can contact her by email at helpinfrance66@gmail.com

• Cream the butter and icing sugar together.

Use an electric mixer if you have one.

• Add the egg and incorporate.

• Add the flour and salt and incorporate until it forms a ball that you can roll out but don’t overwork it • Refrigerate for 30 mins

MAKE THE ALMOND CREAM • Cream the butter and sugar together • Add the almonds and stir in (don’t beat) • Beat the egg and stir in

ASSEMBLE TART • Roll out the pastry and line a 22cm circle or loose-bottomed tin • Prick all over with a fork and refrigerate for 10 minutes (this stops the pastry retracting) • Spread the almond cream over to form an even layer • Slice each pear half into 3mm slices widthways • Arrange in a star shape on top of the almond cream, fanning them out slightly to look pretty • Bake in the oven at 180˚C for 35-40 minutes • Leave to cool a little • Warm through apricot jam until it becomes liquid • Scatter flaked almonds on the tart • Paint the apricot jam all over top with the pastry brush to glaze • Tuck in and enjoy!

December 2018 Living France 37

WHERE TO LIVE

s t n gia Mountains

Among the

MURAT, CANTAL

The pristine ski slopes of France attract millions of people every year but there is even more to life in the mountains, as Brigitte Nicolas finds out

W

atch the seasons change in the most stunningly drastic way as snow-capped peaks turn to humming wildlife habitats in the summer – the mountain ranges within France offer some of the most awe-inspiring scenery in the world and can be a uniquely beautiful place to live. The Tour de France has some of its toughest stages climbing up the steep inclines, while some gentler hills are great for relaxed family outings. This month, holidaymakers will begin to flood to the slopes as December marks the beginning

38 Living France December 2018

of ski season across France. The forests and trails across the natural giants are also a strong draw for climbers and hikers.

Even Mont Blanc – France’s highest peak at 4,810m – attracts hundreds of climbers every week. In fact, there are plans to enforce a cap of 214 climbers per day on the route in 2019. Secluded cabins, high up away from it all, could offer solitude to those seeking a peaceful rural life. Winter sports towns expand and contract with the seasons, while large towns have a life of their own at the foot of some epic peaks.

We take a look at four towns in mountain regions around France.

The Massif Central has an explosive history – being made up of formerly volcanic mountains. One distinguished example of this volcanic geography is the Chaîne des Puys – a chain of dormant volcanoes which have recently been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The Massif is a thickly forested, exceptionally rural and sparsely populated area. It is also one of the lower mountain ranges in France with the highest mountain in the area, Puy de Sancy, peaking at 1,885m.

A view from Puy Mary, west of Murat in Massif Central

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MASSIF CENTRAL

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Tarine cows provide milk for Beaufort cheese, a firm pale yellow cheese with a rich nutty flavour

BEAUFORT, SAVOIE

FRENCH ALPS

In the winter, warm light shines out from cosy chalets blanketed in snow, in the summer, clusters of wooden houses and grey roofs nestle amid lush green forest – the commune of Beaufort is picture perfect all year round. Beaufort is in the Savoie department on the south-east border of France where the north-west corner of the enormous Alps mountain region begins to stretch into France. The Alps are the highest and largest mountain range in Europe, extending for almost 1,000km with a surface area of 35,000km2 in France and including Mont Blanc. When not snow-covered, the Beaufortain mountains are full of wildflowers and wildlife including fur covered marmots (part of the squirrel family) which are easily spotted on an alpine walk. The ski slopes at Arêches-Beaufort – a large ski resort and village within Beaufort – are open from late December to early April and has 29 slopes making up 50km of ski area on the Grand Mont, and 13 ski lifts, with the highest slope altitude at 2,320m. There are routes and activities suitable for a range of abilities from children to experienced

skiers. Restaurants in the area serve a variety of food including the traditional Savoy fondue and tartiflette, and are visited by both skiers and Beaufort’s hundreds of permanent residents.

The Roselend Dam and reservoir water system, built in the 1950s, created two lakes. The larger Lac de Roselend, has several bars and restaurants dotted around it and is great for fishing, cycling and hiking, while the smaller Lac de St. Guérin has a high footbridge across from which you can enjoy stunning views of the wild landscape. Cyclists will love to explore the circuits marked through forests and mountain passes and open pastures. There are easy routes for those who want to take in the scenery and more challenging paths for lovers of the sport.

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The slopes of Arêches-Beaufort

The medieval town of Murat sits in the heart of the Massif Central. The three hills that surround Murat are formed of volcanic rock. Bonnevie within the north west of the medieval town is easily identifiable from a wander through the town by the 8m high statue of Virgin Mary – Notre Dame de Haute Auvergne that stands on top. This and the other two hills – Bredon and Chastel – offer fantastic views of the Monts du Cantal. The town, despite its rural location has all the conveniences you could need – several restaurants and hotels, a supermarket, a train station, a cinema and a swimming pool.

In the Middle Ages, Murat was a fortified town and a trade hub that held many fairs and markets.

Today, Murat has a mill that exports premium flour around the world and is used in some Michelin star establishments in France. Many of the buildings in the town are made from stone

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Sunset on the Monts du Cantal

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from the town’s own quarry. The town also retains an historic look with some 15th and 16th-century buildings classified as historic monuments. The House of Fauna museum is set up in a 16thcentury mansion house, which contains collections of both local and exotic fauna and has 8,000 species on show over three floors.

The town’s proximity to wide

Every year Murat holds a cornet festival to celebrate the local gastronomic speciality

open spaces and the Monts du Cantal, as well as the opportunities it offers for people to learn about volcanism and local fauna and flora, and the large number of producers and artisans in the town who open their doors to the public, has earned the town the label of a ‘station verte’.

PROPERTY PRICES €70,200 Average house price

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December 2018 Living France 39

Candlelight procession at the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes

WHERE TO LIVE

Mountains LOURDES, HAUTES-PYRÉNÉES

PYRÉNÉES

Lourdes is overlooked by two immense sights, the Pic du Jer mountain and the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes. In 1858, the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to a young girl called Bernadette Soubirous in the town and helped her find a spring which now sits within the sanctuary and attracts millions of Catholic pilgrims every year. Religious or not, it is easy to appreciate the beauty of the town. The striking grey sanctuary has noticeable gold embellishments, while the colours of the religious murals become more evident as you reach closer. The sanctuary is actually made up of five basilicas and a grotto – where the spring is found. Masses and celebrations happen daily and entry to the sanctuary is free.

The funicular of Pic du Jer

BUSSANG, VOSGES

The Pic du Jer mountain is a great place for hiking and it is possible to walk from Lourdes to the summit following a wellmaintained and signposted path. Around the mountain you with find botanical trails, and there are wonderful views of the rest of the Pyrénées. Between March and November you can take the Pic du Jer funicular up the mountain. There is also a world-cup-quality mountain bike trail, which you can pay to go on for a day – or keen local mountain bikers can get a season pass. This year, Lourdes welcomed 146 world class cyclists for stage 19 of the Tour de France which began in Lourdes and ended in Laruns.

The Pyrénées is one of the largest and highest mountain ranges in France. It runs along the south of France forming a natural border between France and Spain.

Vignemale, at 3,298m, is the highest of the range’s peaks that sit within France.

Several areas of the Pyrénées are classified as regional parks including Parc National des Pyrénées to the south of Lourdes.

There is a direct road from the city to the park that runs alongside the Gave de Pau river. The park is a refuge for animals and birds such as the griffon vulture, the mountain lizard and the brown bear.

The Col du Grand Ballon mountain pass

THE VOSGES

Bussang town hall sits at an altitude of approximately 610m with forested mountains rising up around the town. The Moselle river runs through the town and small rivers and tributaries branch around the commune. Its source can be found at the foot of the Drumont mountain at an altitude of 715m in the north-east of the commune. A stone monument, built in 1965, marks the source and there is a map of the river engraved on it. The river source is also the start of a Moselle river bike route – a 512km cycle route which follows the river and ends in Koblenz, Germany where the Moselle flows into the Rhine.

Bussang is a ‘station verte’, and a ‘village fleuris’ and one of the 198 communes found within the Parc Naturel Régional des Ballons des Vosges – the landscapes of

40 Living France December 2018

which are popular with hikers and horse riders. Less than an hour to the east of Bussang is the Grand Ballon. At 1,424m, it is the highest peak in the Vosges, while still low enough to be a good place for families to walk.

Skiers will be pleased to know that Bussang has its own small ski station that is good for crosscountry skiers.

It has four ski lifts and eight pistes. The longest run is just 1km

but there is a total of 27km (17 miles) of cross-country ski trails.

The ski station is open from late December to mid-March. And if Bussang isn’t quite large enough to satisfy your taste for the slopes, there are also three other ski stations to explore in the adjacent towns within 6km.

For a day or evening out that is less physically exerting, Bussang is also home to the renowned Théâtre du Peuple. The wooden

PROPERTY PRICES €136,500 Average house price

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theatre has been classified as an historic monument since 1976 and has large doors at the back of the stage which, when opened, mean the woodland behind can be used as a backdrop or even an extended area for the story to play out in. Maurice Pottecher opened the theatre in 1895 – “by art, for humanity” – a motto that is now written on the side of the building. The Théâtre du Peuple was part of a popular theatre movement at the turn of the century and is still used for performances today.

PROPERTY PRICES €108,500 Average house price

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Established in 1987 we at Maison Individuelle are dedicated to assisting UK purchasers find their ideal property in the French Alps, Cote d’Azur or Languedoc, three of the safest and most prestigious property markets in the world.

01707 376255 info@mifrance.co.uk www.maisonindividuelle.co.uk

LIFESTYLE

Dress to impress

Living in Paris inspired Rosemary Allan to trade in her job in insurance to become an image consultant and run a boutique bed and breakfast. She hasn’t looked back since, she tells Gillian Harvey

42 Living France December 2018

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The courtyard at 52 Clichy

F

Rosemary Allan of BWonderful

MORE ONLINE Find out what life in France is like from other expats who have made the move completefrance.com/living-in-france/ real-life

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amed as the fashion capital of the world, Paris may seem the ideal place to set up an image consultancy – somewhere people can come to discover the colours, shades, cuts and styles that enhance their natural looks.

However, when expat Rosemary Allan, 55, decided to train as a consultant in 2010, it was for more personal reasons.

“I’d gone grey,” she explains. “And suddenly everything in my wardrobe seemed to make me look washed out. I’d go to stores and pick up colourful clothes because I liked the shade – but nothing seemed to suit me. I felt completely confused as to what to wear to suit my new colouring.”

In some areas of France, this might not seem such a fundamental problem, but working and living among apparently effortlessly stylish Parisians, not knowing quite how to dress was a real frustration for Rosemary.

“It was as if, overnight, nothing in my wardrobe suited me anymore!” she says.

Determined to regain her style, Rosemary booked the services of a local image consultant to help her to understand how to dress to suit her new colouring.

“Unfortunately the appointment didn’t go well,” says Rosemary. “I left feeling more confused than when I’d gone in.

There was no clear advice – nothing to take away with me and use on a practical level.”

FRESH START It was this confusion about style that prompted Rosemary’s decision to train as an image consultant with Colour Me Beautiful in the UK in 2010.

Taking leave from her job in insurance, where she’d worked since moving to Paris from Hong Kong in 1996, she took the first of several two-week courses and returned with a wealth of knowledge about how different shades and tones complemented people’s colouring.

“I chose to train as a consultant simply to gain a full understanding of how to adapt my choices to my new appearance,” she explains. “I didn’t ever imagine I’d start working as a consultant; it was a rather expensive present to myself.”

Newly confident, Rosemary arrived back in Paris with a clear appreciation of how to dress to suit her natural colouring and look her best. And people soon noticed the change.

“When I went back to work, dressed in some of my new outfits, people started to comment how well I was looking,” she says. “That’s the thing about wearing the right clothes – people don’t say I love that shade of blue or that jumper really suits you, instead they comment on how healthy you look – that’s what the right colour and style can do for you.”

To her surprise, Rosemary also came to realise that there was real demand for her services in Paris.

December 2018 Living France 43

LIFESTYLE “Friends would ask me for advice,” she says. “And people began to contact me having found me on the Colour Me Beautiful website. I was astounded to find that most of these women were French women – Parisians – who seemed to be so confident and stylish. It amazed me that they felt they needed advice.

“However, I soon realised that often these women stuck to neutral tones – safe colours and a strict set of rules about when they should be worn. They wanted to wear more colourful clothing, but didn’t know where to start.”

Gradually, Rosemary began to take on clients and realised how much she had to offer, setting up her consultancy business BWonderful alongside her existing job.

“To my surprise, I even won Best International Image Consultant at the Colour Me Beautiful awards in 2011,” she says. “I was so surprised; I blushed a beetroot colour.”

FEEL AT HOME In 2013, Rosemary also decided she wanted to step aside from her corporate life and try something new.

“I started a boutique B&B and apartment let in Paris,” she says.

“I was a little unsure, but actually I’ve found that dealing with B&B guests on holiday is completely different from dealing with the corporate world; I’ve found B&B guests to be wonderful, very relaxed and open and genuinely grateful for all my efforts at hospitality.”

And it seems that Rosemary has a talent for making her guests feel at home. Her accommodation 52 Clichy comes highly recommended; rated one of the top places to stay on three major booking websites including TripAdvisor.

In a city with thousands of options, this is a real accolade.

“This year, I had 100 nights Enjoying breakfast on the balcony already booked by 1 January,” she says. “I get repeat business and recommendations from previous customers. I’m always working hard to help my guests to enjoy their stay in Paris,” she says.

“I try to keep up-to-date with local events, visiting theatres, restaurants and exhibitions in the afternoons and evenings to ensure that I can make informed recommendations and enhance people’s holidays.

There is a fully equip “It’s great, as I’m not sure I’d ped kitchen be out and about so much if I wasn’t running the guest business – it’s a win-win as it means I am truly enjoying living in this vibrant city.”

Rosemary has also expanded her image consultancy work, offering consultations, advice on style and even accompanied shopping trips where she helps people to use their new-found knowledge to refresh their wardrobes.

She’s also noticed a difference when it comes to working with customers of One of the bedrooms different nationalities.

STYLISH STAY With her image consultancy also making its mark – she was voted the Best Image Consultant in Paris by an expat magazine in 2017 – it may seem surprising that Rosemary, who is extremely busy, wants to develop her businesses more. However, her next goal is to knit together her passion for hosting and image consultancy so

44 Living France December 2018

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APARTMENT PHOTOS © OLIVIA RUTHERFORD

“I’ve found that British people often want to gain as much knowledge as they can in a short space of time,” she says.

“They will tend to just book a colour consultation and are pleased with the knowledge they acquire. However French clients seem to want to know everything inside out – they’ll often book a colour and style consultation and then ask me to accompany them on a shopping trip too.

They are really interested in learning how everything works.”

ROSEMARY’S STYLE TIPS • If you’re curvy, choose softer fabrics as they drape better. A top in a softly shaped jersey material is more slimming than a crisp cotton which can add kilos to your silhouette that don’t really exist.

• If you’re petite, try to match the tone of your skirt/hosiery/shoes and avoid wearing a highlycontrasting colour on top, or shoes with an ankle strap.

• If you are pear-shaped, accentuate your top half and choose clothing styles to minimise your hips and bottom. Keep detail and pattern to your top and try to avoid straight skirts, trousers with detail on the back pockets, tops and jackets that finish at your widest point and raglan sleeves.

that more guests come to use her service during their stay, rather than booking separately or coming from elsewhere.

“At the moment, people who book into the B&B often book a consultation as well, but as an afterthought – an additional treat,” she explains.

“Mothers might book as a confidence boost for their daughters, friends book together as a fun afternoon treat, or others who are intending to refresh their wardrobe come for advice. But my goal is to have more guests come with the aim of building image consultation into their stay, as a primary focus.”

More than anything Rosemary enjoys seeing her clients leave their consultation with a renewed sense of confidence.

“People come to see me if they’ve gone grey, or lost their way a bit, or want to do something special for themselves,” she says. “It’s hard enough having selfconfidence, especially in Paris where everyone seems to find it so easy.

“I like to leave my customers with a toolkit to use – it’s not about

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52 Clichy offers a comfortable base

recommending a particular shade of blue, it’s more of a general idea of whether dark, strong bold colours suit, or whether to choose muted rather than reflective material. And I always explain why – having a ‘because’ helps people to remember the recommendations and understand a bit more about how the right style or colour can completely change the way they look.

“For people coming for a colour analysis I give people a mantra of three words – mine are cool, deep and clear. For me, it makes my choices so easy. I don’t waste

my time when I’m shopping.

“At first, I treated my image consultation service more as a hobby – I was convinced no one could be as confused as me! But I’ve found that while most women basically have the right ideas, they don’t know exactly why certain things suit them.

“It is the ‘why’ that makes choices obvious, so you stop wasting time (and lots of money) buying the wrong things or worrying about your choices. It’s superempowering to absolutely know that you look your best even without makeup, whether you’re wearing jeans or are dressed up to the nines.”

And, in her new niche – worlds away from her work in the insurance industry – Rosemary has found the happiness that comes with helping others to feel great about themselves. “I’m so lucky to be able to do two jobs that make me happy and seem to make others happy too,” she says.

“It’s truly transformative.”

52clichy.com bwonderful.com

December 2018 Living France 45

THE FRANCE SHOW 2019

The France Show is back!

Enjoy the best of France in the heart of London as everyone’s favourite French event returns for another fun-packed weekend The France Show is returning to London Olympia in January 2019. Back by popular demand, the three-day event showcases everything we love about France, from sun-soaked holidays to great food and wine. The show runs from 25-27 January 2019 and features a tempting blend of travel, gastronomy, property and culture, guaranteeing a fun time for all.

PROPERTY SHOP If you’re looking for your very own bolthole in France, the French Property Exhibition features thousands of properties for sale. It’s a great place to pick up advice from estate agents and research a property purchase or move to France. If you’re keen to hear from those in the know, don’t miss the expert-led seminars that take place throughout the weekend. These free sessions are invaluable for helping you understand what you need to know about buying property and living in France, from essential tax and legal advice to how Brexit might affect your plans.

FRENCH LIFE IN FOCUS On the Flavours of France stage, hear from travel writer and long-time Languedoc resident Anthony Peregrine, who writes regularly in the Daily Telegraph and the Sunday Times. His take on France promises to be entertaining and free of any mention of two of his pet hates – andouillettes and Brexit. You can also hear tales from travel writer Lisa Gerard-Sharp, whose years of travelling have given rise to inspirational and sometimes bizarre insights into French culture.

Back by popular demand is comedian and chambres d’hôtes owner Ian Moore. After 14 years in France, has the sharp-suited Mod evolved into a Gallic gent or is he still causing confusion with his shaky grip on French etiquette? More expat insights come from Janine Marsh, who swapped urban life for a rural existence surrounded by chickens, ducks and geese in northern France.

TASTE TOUR Join the show’s resident food and wine hosts: Chef Guy Wolley and Susy Atkins, wine writer at the Sunday Telegraph. Guy and Susy’s food and wine pairings will provide the inspiration you need to impress your dinner guests. For more wine advice, head on over to the Cave à Vins, where Susy will lead short, fun talks to introduce you to great tipples available at the show. Making his France Show debut for 2019 is Guillaume Duvivier, the chef patron of Le Clos des Capucins in Montreuil-sur-Mer

on France’s northern coastline. Also new for 2019, the pop-up Atelier des Fromages, where you can nibble on some of France’s tastiest cheeses.

The Wine Theatre is home of the tutored tastings – a chance to learn more about France’s wine-growing regions and grape varieties. Master of Ceremonies is professional wine and champagne expert (and racing pundit), Neil Phillips, also known as The Wine Tipster. He brings on board a host of wine experts and producers to show you some lesser known gems as well as great vintages.

AN INSPIRING WEEKEND Plan your next hop across the Channel with the tour operators, travel experts and tourist boards.

Keep your eyes peeled for show offers and competitions and you might even bag a bargain. Don’t forget to swing by the Language and Travel Forum to pick up language tips and travel inspiration.

The Flavours of France Stage, sponsored by P&O Ferries, is at the heart of the action. All weekend, writers, chefs, musicians, entertainers and, of course, the cancan dancers, will be live on stage. All this to the musical backdrop of Oriana and The Charmers, who will transport you to France with vintage French jazz. Is there a better way to start the year?

WWW.THEFRANCESHOW.COM

/franceshowlondon

@TheFranceShow

SAVE OVER 50% WHEN YOU BOOK IN ADVANCE Buy your France Show tickets for just £6 each until 31 December 2018 and save over 50% on the door price. Quote the promotional code FPLFN at www.thefranceshow.com/tickets or order by calling 01242 264777. *Booking fee applies

LIFESTYLE

Our grown-up

gap year It’s never too late, even if you have little ones in tow. As Amy Jones and her husband Richard leave Wales for a new life in Deux-Sèvres with their young sons, she shares her advice on planning and funding a year abroad in France

S

ometime last summer I was chatting with my husband Richard as our babies lay sleeping. Yet again, we started dreaming about where else we could be in the world, wishing we’d travelled more before we had children and wondering if we’d ever find the perfect time to do something a bit different.

It’s not that we hated our home in west Wales or that we were particularly unhappy with the way things were; we simply had a longing and a sense that there was more to life than just waiting for the weekend.

“Let’s just go,” Richard said at 2am.

“Okay,” I replied, and that was that!

So there was a little more to it than that, but deciding that having young children shouldn’t stop us from doing something different was a big step in the right direction. It didn’t take long for us to agree that we wanted to spend

our year abroad in France. Richard has family connections there and has spoken French to our boys Léo, aged three, and one-year-old Sébastien since birth (although they are yet to use it much at all!). If this was ever going to be more than just ‘something we almost did’ we needed a plan, and quickly, before we got too bogged down in nappies, work and washing up. This is how we made it happen.

TELLING YOUR EMPLOYER Once you have committed to taking a gap year the next obvious step is informing work. As a teacher, Richard had to hand in his notice a full term before finishing work. If the thought of leaving worries you then it’s worth asking your employer if you can apply for a sabbatical. That way you have a job to come back to – if you want your French adventure to end, of course!

REDUCE SPENDING AND INCREASE SAVING

The couple listed their house in Wales on Airbnb

48 Living France December 2018

You don’t need to be rich to plan a year abroad. We plan to make as much money as we can from our house in Wales, earn a little while in France and only dip into savings if we really have to.

We had already considerably reduced our spending when I chose to stay at home to look after our boys rather than return to work. We were pretty adept at saving and making money wherever we could. We bought second-hand, sold the things we didn’t use anymore and bought a cheap annual ticket to a local farm park to save on days out.

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Amy found savvy wa ys

It helped to record what we spent and then review it at the end of the month, as it really highlighted where we could be making savings. It’s the ‘little but often’ purchases to look out for. To give you an idea, spending £40 on a weekly takeaway for a family of four equates to over £2,000 in a year. That’s your crossing to France, motorway tolls, insurances and first few months’ rent paid for!

ILLUSTRATION © SKATHI / GETTY IMAGES

EARNING MONEY FROM YOUR HOUSE Reducing our outgoings helped a lot but we also needed to make more money if we were going to fund our year (or more) abroad. One of the most financially beneficial things that we did was to sign up to the holiday letting site Airbnb. We first advertised our house to holidaymakers a few years ago as we’d seen a lot of people make extra income doing it and we knew it could work for us too. Our house is only a small three-bedroom end of terrace but it is nicely

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to save money

decorated, well kitted out for children and is just a short drive from the Cardigan Bay coastline. Having decided that we wanted a gap year we committed to spending last Easter and summer away en s Léo and Sébasti from our house so that we Amy’s little helper could add even more to our savings pot.

Cleaning the house for our paying guests was a lot of work. We’d only finished building it five years earlier but we’d already collected far too much ‘stuff’. I can’t really find a better word to describe it. It was literally stuff; those little things that you acquire but never really use and yet for some reason can’t bear to part with. Anyway, we did it. We emptied the attic, filled it again, cleared cupboards and sold as much as we could on Facebook before finally admitting defeat and taking a few car loads to the charity shop.

When the school holidays came and our house was filled Saying goodbye to life in Wales with paying guests we stayed

December 2018 Living France 49

LIFESTYLE with family, went camping and even went on holiday ourselves. We found a local cleaner to get the house ready between guests when we were away. This was a great trial run for being away longer term while renting out our house.

So far we’ve had no real issues and we’d really recommend it to anyone who wants to make a few extra thousand pounds. Just make sure that your mortgage company allows it and that you’re properly insured.

WORKING IN FRANCE WITH THE BRITISH COUNCIL So, we had savings and an unpredictable ‘income’ from Airbnb. It was a good start, but with children to look after we needed something a little more dependable to fund our time in France. We decided to approach the British Council for a language assistant placement. Richard had already worked with the British Council when he was at university studying French and Spanish, and had spent seven sunny months working in a school in Huelva on the southern coast of Spain.

English assistant placements arranged by the British Council are limited but the application process itself is pretty straightforward.

Successful applicants work 12 hours a week and are paid around €800 per month. It involves a standard job application but it has an additional section where you select the location that you would prefer.

That was the hardest part! We spent hours staring at their list of available regions. ‘Choose

one from Group A, one from Group B, and one from any of the three groups’. It all sounded so simple but choosing between the likes of Lyon, Reims and Versailles wasn’t an easy task.

Having narrowed it down to our top seven or so we then looked at the weather averages for the year. Yes, in true British fashion, it came down to the weather.

In the end we opted for Poitou-Charentes as our first choice as it is known for its mild winters and it looked like it would suit our family with plenty to do outdoors.

The application went in as soon as they opened in the autumn. Although we were hopeful we knew that university students would have priority as part of their degree courses. We waited... and waited. We had to wait a long time to find anything out.

We went ahead and booked our Eurotunnel tickets anyway. Whatever the outcome of the application, we were determined that we would spend a year in France somehow.

And then finally, in May, Richard received an email confirming that his application had been accepted. We still had no idea where we were going but that was just a minor technicality.

A few months later we were excited to hear that his placement would be in the town of Thouars and nearby St-Varent in the Deux-Sèvres department. We went online immediately and ‘walked the streets’ on Google Earth and checked out the parks on my favourite Playground Buddy app, but we can’t wait to get there in person and take a proper look around.

Part of the Marais Poitevin, France’s ‘Green Venice’, is located in Deux-Sèvres

BRITISH COUNCIL ELIGIBILITY CRITERIA To become a language assistant you must: • Be a native-level English speaker • Be aged 35 or under (some countries accept older applicants) • Speak French to B1 (intermediate) level (you can test yourself online)

• Have completed the majority of your secondary school education in the UK or RoI

MORE ONLINE

• Have passed two years of university-level education • Be flexible with regard to the location of your post The boys were keen to help with the packing!

50 Living France December 2018

Different ways to earn a living in France completefrance.com/living-in-france/ working-in-france

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MAIN IMAGE © GUY OZENNE / GETTY IMAGES

• Hold a UK, Irish or other EU passport

BENEFITS OF WORLD SCHOOLING Through world schooling our boys will: • Learn naturally about people, places and experiences as they occur

THE DETAILS! Getting our heads around what we needed to do before leaving our home took a bit of research. We read so much conflicting advice that overcomplicated it and almost put us off, but thankfully in the end it was quite simple.

We needed car insurance that covered us fulltime in France rather than the more common 90-day cover period. There are a few insurers that offer this but be sure to check the small print. You’ll probably want European breakdown cover too and this can either be arranged in the UK or with a French company after you arrive.

France is known for its love of paperwork so make sure you pack marriage certificates, birth certificates and payslips covering the last three months, as you’ll need them when you come to set up a French bank account or rent a house.

You shouldn’t need to worry about income tax as the double taxation agreement between the UK and France means that language assistants are only liable to pay income tax in the UK (for up to two years). That’s one less thing to worry about.

CONSIDERING OUR CHILDREN Our sons’ wellbeing was our top priority when it came to planning our year in France. I’d be lying if I didn’t admit to being slightly anxious about taking them away from their home, their climbing frame, their bedroom, their grandparents, aunties, uncles and cousins.

We have no idea yet how they will take to

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travelling, or how they will cope with leaving their home. We’ll do everything we can to make it a positive experience for our little adventurers and if it all goes well, we’re planning to keep travelling long term for a while.

Our son Léo was due to start school this September in Wales. Having worked in education for 10 years before having children I have to admit to feeling disheartened by the ‘system’. I’m keen to homeschool the boys for a while at least. I prefer to use the term ‘world school’ as we’ll be learning from experiences that arise naturally.

Travelling is part of the world schooling ethos but you don’t need to be a nomadic family to subscribe to it. It’s an ethos and an awareness that there are so many rich teaching opportunities outside the classroom walls. It’s about the importance you place on being openminded and learning from others. We want our boys to develop a sense of self with us as their guides first.

We’re so looking forward to exploring France and seeing what it has to offer our family. I’m determined to become fluent in French and hopefully become part of a community. We’d love you to join us on our adventures through our monthly column.

Amy Jones blogs about her family’s travels and homeschooling journey at familyedventures.com or follow along on Facebook @welovefamilyedventures

NEW SERIES

Amy’s monthly diary of her year abroad in France starts next month in our January issue

• Become true global citizens who have experienced different cultures • Make friends around the world and learn that people are generally good and kind • Avoid the anxiety caused by unnecessary assessments and tests • Receive an education catered to their needs and interests • Develop real-life social skills

À LA MAISON

“I like to keep the Christmas decorating as simple as possible so I can get the children involved.

It’s turning into a bit of a family tradition now” WHO:

WHAT:

Catherine Turner and Jonathan Eaton

A rented 19thcentury Hausmannian apartment, renovated and redecorated by the couple

WHERE: 7th arrondissement, Paris

54 Living France December 2018

WHY: A job opportunity for Jonathan in the French capital prompted the family to leave London

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At home for

Christmas WORDS & STYLING: SIAN WILLIAMS / NARRATIVES IMAGES: POLLY ELTES / NARRATIVES

C

atherine Turner and her husband Jonathan have lived in France with their two children – William, aged seven and four-yearold Emilia – for four years, their home a 130-year-old apartment right in the heart of Paris. Catherine runs her own business, BEG Bicycles (begbicycles.com), and Jonathan works in pharmaceuticals.

“Four years ago when my husband Jonathan first broke the news that he’d got a job offer in Paris it was a complete shock, but I knew we just couldn’t say no to the opportunity,” says Catherine.

They first lived in Catherine’s hometown of Cambridge and then moved to Maida Vale in London, where they stayed for 15 years. Both felt it was a good time to try something new before William and Emilia started school. They loved London for its urban villages and knew this was what they wanted to find in Paris.

“Luckily the city is all about local communities,” says Catherine, “and with its very distinct quarters it has even more of a village feel than London ever had.”

Their biggest issue was how they could possibly take time out to find an apartment with Jonathan working out the notice period of his previous job right up to the last minute and Catherine looking after their two small children?

“We ended up using a relocation agent in the UK to help us navigate uncharted territory,” says Catherine. “They were really good and were very thorough with all our requirements. I think we would have been really out of our depth otherwise.”

After looking at a variety of apartments, many of which were not in quite the right area or wouldn’t suit their family lifestyle, they eventually found the perfect Parisian apartment. Located in the 7th arrondissement, an affluent area of the city very popular with families, the classic Haussmann pierre de taille (dressed stone) apartment had high ceilings, parquet floors and huge windows.

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December 2018 Living France 55

À LA MAISON “The layout of the apartment really appealed to us as a family,” says Catherine.

“It’s all on one level with a large hallway and long corridor connecting to each of the rooms, giving the children loads of space to play freely. We don’t have that sense of feeling cooped up here as the huge windows make it so light and airy.”

THE BIG MOVE At the beginning of 2009 the family moved lock, stock and barrel out of London into their new home, which at that time was an empty shell. “There was absolutely nothing in it,” recalls Catherine.

“There was no kitchen or bathroom, and it didn’t even have any central light fittings.

“It was just the bare walls, paneling and exquisite fireplaces.”

Much of the work that needed to be done was cosmetic. There were no problems structurally and central heating had already been installed. The biggest job was to tackle the kitchen and bathroom.

“We had to buy the kitchen having seen the room only once and ended up

purchasing it in London and bringing it to Paris in a removal van, a rather hair-raising journey to say the least,” says Jonathan.

Within three months they had all the basic elements in place. The kitchen and bathroom were fully fitted, and extra storage cupboards were custom built to tie in with the paneling and mouldings.

“Parisian kitchens are notoriously small in size so we kept everything minimal and as streamlined as possible to maximise our space,” says Catherine. “We wanted a family home as well as a stylish, clutterfree environment. The family mantra is to have out only what you love and need most and everything else store away so the large closets fitted in every room make sure we stick to that.”

DECORATING IDEAS “Decorating the apartment was an absolute pleasure,” says Catherine. “In the UK we’d always had very contemporary interiors so the cool whiteness of the rooms and the detailing of the plasterwork on the walls really appealed to my taste, and formed a

Left: Catherine’s bike is used as a quirky Christmas prop in the hallway, which is light and airy thanks to the neutral wall colour and large window Above: Festive greenery adds colour and Christmas spirit to the white fitted kitchen, which has been kept as minimal and streamlined as possible to maximise space

Bottom right: Son William’s bedroom is large enough to accommodate a striking raised bed/den, while baskets on wheels for his toys keep the space tidy

56 Living France December 2018

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ALL IMAGES © POLLY ELTES / NARRATIVES

Top right: The family return from an early evening walk around the local food and flower markets with Christmas foliage to decorate the apartment

“The children and I always finish off our decorating by buying spruce branches and eucalyptus from the local flower market”

fantastic backdrop for all the furniture and accessories I chose. I’ve kept the window treatments as simple as possible to maximise the light coming into the rooms all the year round. We put up curtains in most of our rooms but dressed them very simply with a pinch pleat or eyelet heading and when drawn back they sit beyond the window’s edge. The blinds are a pale grey sheer which blends with the walls and allows light in when closed.”

Catherine likes to mix her more modern furniture with ornate French vintage pieces and accessories. “In every room I’ve tried to get a good balance of practicality and style that also blends well with its architectural features,” she says.

“I also love using tones of grey, beige and taupe that work really well in our home combined with the occasional flash of bolder colour, especially in the children’s rooms.”

The living room, dining room and

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master bedroom were easier to decorate as Catherine could incorporate her own tastes, but the children’s rooms needed an injection of their own personalities. The unusual raised bed in William’s room and the bold red cupboards tie in well with his vibrant and adventurous spirit, while the vintage white metal furniture with pink curtains and pretty patchwork bedspread is a perfect match for little Emilia’s tastes.

The more unique finishing touches Catherine has added to the apartment, such as the bow-fronted console table and leather swivel chair, have all been bought in France. “Paris is full of little ateliers and designers which I’m always on the lookout for when I’m cycling around the city,” she says.

SEASONAL STYLE Christmas decorations are done in a similar way. A simple, coordinated colour scheme of white, silver, hot pink and natural tones

December 2018 Living France 57

À LA MAISON

“There is nothing better for me than sitting at my little desk in the corner of the dining room looking out onto our cobbled mews and courtyard listening to the gentle buzz of Paris” is combined with a mix of elegant vintage, rustic and modern-looking baubles.

“I like to keep the Christmas decorating as simple as possible so I can get the children involved. It’s turning into a bit of a family tradition now,” says Catherine.

“The children and I always finish off our decorating by buying spruce branches and eucalyptus from the local flower market and cutting them into small sprigs, which we scatter about the mantelpieces and tables. They look and smell so Christmassy. Emilia then adds our quirky little owl decorations to the Christmas tree as a final finishing touch,” she says.

Above: The fireplace in the dining room has been decorated with fresh spruce sprigs Left: Hot pink is a dominant colour in daughter Emilia’s bedroom Bottom left: Emilia enjoys reading by the Christmas tree Bottom right: Catherine chose shell pink and grey tones for the master bedroom

LIVING THE DREAM Having now lived in France for almost a decade the family seem very settled and established in their home. “I love Paris – it’s so magical, especially at Christmas time,” says Catherine. Living here has given them a fantastic lifestyle as well as a new business venture. Inspired by the French capital’s cycling culture and chic people, Catherine started her own online business selling vintage bicycles and accessories, something she never imagined she would end up doing.

“There is nothing better for me than sitting at my little desk in the corner of the dining room looking out onto our cobbled mews and courtyard listening to the gentle buzz of Paris, and talking with customers about one of my favourite pastimes. It’s bliss,” she says.

58 Living France December 2018

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À LA MAISON

League of its own The shortest day approaches and it’s traditionally the time to decorate the house with evergreens. Sue Bradley discovers the Napoleonic associations of a stunning form of ivy and keeps warm by getting on with a few seasonal jobs

T

he Battle of Marengo in 1800 was a key moment in Napoleon Bonaparte’s rise to power, a victory he was determined should never be forgotten.

A memorial column still stands in the village of Spinetta Marengo in Piedmont, marking the place that saw the Austrians driven out of Italy by the French.

The small yet plucky grey war horse that carried the future emperor safely through the fighting went on to be known as Marengo and Napoleon’s chef even invented a dish – Poulet Marengo – to please his boss after the battle.

The victory continued to live on in the French consciousness even after Napoleon’s demise and in 1848 the name Marengo was given to a village in the Tipaza Province of northern Algeria, now known as Hadjout.

It was also in Algeria, at a house called Villa Marengo, that a particularly pretty form of variegated ivy is said to have been found, a cutting from which was taken to Europe and widely propagated during the 19th century.

It went on to be given a variety of different names, including ‘Souvenir de Marengo’ and Canary Island ivy, before botanists settled on Hedera algeriensis ‘Gloire de Marengo’.

Nowadays this ivy’s distinctive large and heart-shaped evergreen leaves – which have deep green centres that Lierre (m) = ivy merge into silvery-grey with irregular Bouture (f) = cutting creamy white margins – can often be found putting on spectacular displays Plante d’appartement (f) = house plant outdoors or lighting up indoor rooms as pot plants.

VOCABULAIRE DU JARDIN

Indeed, in his book Ivies, first published in 1980, Peter Q Rose described it as the “most extensively grown house plant ivy in Europe at the present time, as well as being extremely popular in America”.

‘Gloire de Marengo’ is native to the Atlantic coast of North Africa and the Canaries and is generally hardy, although can be hit hard during prolonged bouts of severe frost. It can be grown in full sun or partial shade, although it’s best kept out of very cold winds, and it does well in all types of moist and well-draining soil. It has some drought tolerance. This self-supporting ivy is great for brightening dark corners and cladding unsightly buildings, fences and walls.

It looks good on arbours and pergolas and is often used for securing steep banks and slopes or as ground cover; in California it’s often grown next to freeways or in areas where grass is difficult to mow.

Bees forage its small yellow flowers in autumn and birds eat its black berries and shelter in its foliage over winter.

‘Gloire de Marengo’ has an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society but nurseries caution growers to be aware of its vigorous and fast growth, which can, in the right conditions, lead to a potential height and spread of between 2.5m and 4m.

This trait has led the Worcestershire-based Fibrex Nurseries, home of the UK’s National Collection of ivy, to caution: “This ivy will need a fair bit of work to keep it under control”.

THINGS TO DO IN THE GARDEN THIS MONTH

1

Take hardwood cuttings of shrubs, climbers and trees and bring on outside, or under a cold frame in particularly cold areas.

60 Living France December 2018

2

Plant barerooted shrubs and trees, although avoid days when the ground is frozen.

3

Continue harvesting leeks, sprouts, kale, cabbage and root crops such as carrots and parsnip.

4

Prune apple and pear trees, although leave those growing against walls.

5

Cut down on the watering of house plants and check that heaters are working in the greenhouse.

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TS • OP

ER

S • J AR EN

G AR D EN

N S O UV DI

Caroline & Paul Wright Open Gardens members, Haute-Vienne

A

© CAROLINE WRIGHT

lthough we bought our property in Vayres six years ago, we only made the permanent move to France in January this year.

We left England at 2am on 3 January 2018 arriving 17 hours later at our French home with a car and trailer rammed full of our belongings, two cats and the remains of our garden in England, hastily dug up and stuffed into old compost bags.

We literally hit the ground running, starting up two small businesses; a plant nursery and a ‘garden school’ teaching horticulture, greenwood and natural crafts and garden sculptures.

We built a couple of polytunnels and shade tunnels out of reclaimed greenhouses and tunnel frames and started propagating.

We had both worked at a university running courses in horticulture and had been able to spend our annual leave in France renovating the house to a point where it is now comfortable and functional (although not finished).

We have an acre and a quarter of land which was basically a field surrounded by mature oak trees and a small area that had been cultivated as a potager by the previous owner. We didn’t really start to work on the garden until winter 2016/17 when we began to mark out the pathways and threw down some grass seed and started defining the borders.

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“We began moving plants to their permanent positions, laying out a garden that reflects our passion for plants, nature and being creative with materials we had found, reclaimed and upcycled”

SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST Up until this point we had been bringing bare root plants over during the dormant season and planting them while they had some hope of surviving. Bit by bit we dug up our favourite plants from our old garden, bunged them into any available nook or cranny on the trailer and planted them in a small area of the garden here that was fenced off and offered some protection from wild boar and deer. This was quite a good way to see what survived and what didn’t.

Early on we had planted a collection of ornamental trees and an orchard consisting of heritage Nottinghamshire varieties of apple to add some height and maturity.

Throughout the late winter and this spring, we began moving plants to their permanent positions, laying out a garden that reflects our passion for plants, nature and being creative with materials we had found, reclaimed and upcycled. We haven’t really purchased many plants here in France yet as we have propagated our own from seed and cuttings and divided up plants from our old garden.

We have bought a few plants from specialist nurseries here and at plant fêtes but have generally found a limited range of herbaceous perennials here in France, which is where we hope to fill the gap in the market with our own nursery.

Above: Favourite plants from the couple’s old garden now have a new home Below: The garden’s quirky features were a big hit during the open day

OPEN FOR BUSINESS We had a deadline to meet because we were taking part in the Open Gardens scheme alongside three other local gardens in mid-July, encouraged by our neighbour who was a local coordinator for Jardins Ouverts. We managed to complete all the pathways and patio/ outdoor kitchen area just in time and were ready for our first open day.

We had over 50 visitors and were overwhelmed by the feedback we received. Everyone loved all our quirky features and seemed genuinely amazed at what we had achieved in such a short space of time. We are still developing the garden and hope that when we open next year there will be plenty of new planting and features to see.

Now that we have been here for a whole growing season we have found that the climate is our biggest challenge. In the winter the temperature can start at minus eight overnight and can reach 22 degrees in the afternoon. This year we experienced so much rain from January to March that there were permanent ponds on the field. It stopped raining in May and we have had nothing more than a few millimetres of rain between then and mid-October. The thermometer at the front of our house registered 54 degrees on the hottest days, it is in full sun but then so are my plants! opengardens.eu lejardincreatif.net

December 2018 Living France 61

À LA MAISON

Flavours of France

TIMING

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes Refrigeration time: 2 to 3 hours

EQUIPMENT • One piping bag

• Baking sheet with financier moulds • One baking sheet or silicone baking mat

INGREDIENTS

Serves 6-8

CHOCOLATE FINANCIERS • 2 ó cups (6 ô oz/190g) ground blanched almonds • 1 generous cup (5 ò oz/150g) confectioners’ sugar • 1 tablespoon (ѿ oz/10g) cornstarch • 1 ò tablespoons (ѿ oz/10g) unsweetened cocoa powder

CITRUS-FLAVORED ALMOND STREUSEL • 4 tablespoons (1 ô oz/50g) light brown sugar • Generous ò cup (1 ô oz/50g) ground blanched almonds • Generous ò cup (1 ô oz/50g) cake flour • Zest of ò unwaxed orange

• 9 egg whites

• Zest of ò unwaxed lemon

• ѿ cup (75ml) whipping cream

• 3 tablespoons plus one teaspoon (50g) butter

• 1 ô oz (50g) bittersweet chocolate, 60% cocoa

• 8 ò oz (240g) diced candied orange peel completefrance.com

Eat...

Chocolate financiers, citrus streusel and candied orange peel METHOD Prepare the chocolate financiers. Combine the ground almonds, confectioners’ sugar, cornstarch, and cocoa powder in a mixing bowl. Lightly beat the egg whites with a fork to liquefy them. Incorporate the egg whites and whipping cream into the dry ingredients. Set aside the batter.

Chop the chocolate and melt it slowly in a bain-marie or in the microwave oven (on defrost or at 500W maximum, stirring from time to time).

Pour a little of the batter over the melted chocolate, stirring energetically with a flexible spatula to combine. Then fold this mixture back into the remaining batter carefully.

Chill for at least two to three hours. This is an important stage in the recipe, as it will allow the financiers to rise well when baked.

Prepare the citrus-flavoured almond streusel. Combine the brown sugar, ground almonds, flour, and finely grated zests in a mixing bowl. Cut the butter into small dice and mix it into the preparation using your hands until it reaches a crumbly texture.

Chill for at least 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 300°F-325°F (150°C-160°C). Arrange the crumbly dough on a baking sheet or silicone baking mat. Bake for about 10 minutes, until nicely browned.

Prepare the financiers for baking. Preheat the oven to 350°F (170°C). Pour the chocolate batter into the moulds and sprinkle with diced candied orange and baked streusel crumbs. Total baking time is 15 to 20 minutes.

However, to ensure that the streusel and diced orange peel stay at the top of these little cakes, you may bake them in two stages. Bake the financier batter for four minutes, then sprinkle them with the two ingredients, and return to the oven for about 10 minutes.

Encyclopedia of Chocolate

by Frédéric Bau and École du Grand Chocolat Valrhona (Published by Flammarion 2018, £24.95). Photography © Clay McLachlan 2018.

On the menu next month: Poulet Basquaise completefrance.com

Drink...

In his final column of the year, Richard Hemming recommends three of his favourite wines that would make great gifts or be the perfect accompaniment to a festive feast THE PERFECT CASE, PART 13 Over the last 12 issues of Living France, I have recommended a dozen wines that represent some of the most iconic – and expensive – names in French wine.

There was one Champagne, two red Bordeaux, a red and white Burgundy, two whites from the Loire and two reds from the Rhône, one Beaujolais, one Alsatian and one Sauternes.

If you had bought all of them, it would have cost over £15,000, which is more than most of us would spend on wine in a lifetime! However, I also recommended some of the best-value equivalents, which would have cost £160 for the case. At around £13 per bottle, that’s still double the UK average price, but I do think it represents excellent value.

For my last column in this series, I’m going to recommend the three wines I think are the most compelling buys – and try to convince you why they’re worth the money.

The first argument says that because UK excise duty is a fixed cost, you get far more quality when you spend more. In a £5 bottle, less than 40 pence goes on the grapes; but at £10 per bottle, that rises to £2.75. So spending twice the price gets you seven times the quality.

The second argument appeals to your heart. Wine is a unique reflection of the people, the place and the time that create it. Nothing else can capture the spirit of an origin so completely – and so deliciously – and France is the absolute master of that craft.

Guigal 2015 Côtes du Rhône (£9.95 The Wine Society, £11.99 Waitrose, Ocado and widely available elsewhere) A staggering 170 million bottles of Côtes du Rhône rouge are produced every year, which explains why it is such a well-known name. Guigal are the masters of the style, blending the ripe bramble fruits of grenache with a high proportion of peppery syrah to create a full-bodied, hearty and satisfying red with subtle spicy complexity from oak ageing.

Cave St-Verny, Pinot Noir 2016 IGP Puy de Dôme (£8.50 The Wine Society, £10.95 Lea & Sandeman) In the April 2018 issue, I recommended the 2015 vintage of this wine, now superseded by the 2016. Once again, this co-operative has made one of the best pinot noirs in the world at the price – far better than the most ‘affordable’ red Burgundies. A notoriously fickle variety, pinot noir is all too often thin and flavourless, but this one captures all the red fruit fragrance and refreshing lightness of the variety.

Domaine Huet, Pétillant 2012 Vouvray (£23.50 The Wine Society) Since July 2018, this sparkling wine from the Loire has jumped from the 2010 to the 2012 vintage – but the price has hardly changed, and a vintage champagne of this quality would comfortably cost double the price. The secret is taking a naturally high acid but fairly neutral variety – chenin blanc in this case – and letting it rest in the bottle for years to develop that irresistible toast and baked apple aroma.

December 2018 Living France 63

LANGUAGE Expand your vocabulary, discover the latest languagelearning aids and have fun with our favourite puzzles FINDING THE RIGHT WORDS “A delectable feast of the French language” is how chef Raymond Blanc sums up Le Mot Juste, a book that celebrates the art of the French language with a charming collection of words and phrases. Accompanied by pretty illustrations, the 150 words and phrases are divided into different sections such as ‘The French Way’, which covers useful idioms including avoir la pêche (to be in high spirits) and faire la grasse matinée (to have a lie in), while in ‘Living Life to the Full’ you’ll learn to mangez bien, riez souvent, aimez beaucoup (eat well, laugh often, love abundantly) and that la vie est trop courte pour boire du mauvais vin (life is too short to drink bad wine). Drop any of these into conversation and you’re sure to impress tout le monde with your French language skills.

Le Mot Juste Imogen Fortes, £9.99, Michael O’Mara Books mombooks.com

Get the vocab: une plume

ILLUSTRATIONS © SABELSKAYA / GETTY IMAGES; MICROVONE / GETTY IMAGES

Meaning ‘feather’, plume also means ‘quill’ from the days when feathers were used to write with. Hence, nom de plume means ‘a writer’s alias’. Léger comme une plume translates as ‘light as a feather’, while poids plume refers to the ‘featherweight’ category in boxing. As a verb, plumer means to pluck a bird’s feathers and is an informal way to say ‘to fleece’ or ‘to rip off’.

CHILD’S PLAY Primary school children in France will be encouraged to watch cartoons in English as part of a government drive to improve their ability to speak foreign languages. Other recommendations in the government’s report also include teaching a range of subjects including science, history and maths in English, and other languages. Scandinavian countries are considered to lead the way when it comes to learning a foreign language, and French education minister Jean-Michel Blanquer believes this is due to watching English television programmes and films in their original version.

The report also suggested increasing bilingual classes and ‘European’ sections in schools, as well as introducing preuniversity international language certification.

completefrance.com

My favourite French word What is your favourite French word/ phrases; perhaps it’s something that has struck a chord or stayed in your memory?

UNE ANTENNE PARABOLIQUE (satellite dish) – always makes me laugh!

Emma Smith via Facebook

If you have a handy tip for learning French, please let us know by emailing editorial@livingfrance.com or contact us: twitter.com/ LivingFrance facebook.com/ livingfrancemagazine

December 2018 Living France 65

LANGUAGE

Five-minute French Test your language skills and improve your vocabulary with these fun French games

Le mot commun

LES MOTS CACHÉS

Work out the word that links these groups together, plus their English translation

If the clue is in French, find the English equivalent and vice versa. Theme: winter in France W D A

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D

P

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EXAMPLE.

1.

M

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T

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• pot de ~~~~ • ~~~~ pour les mains • un café ~~~~

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froid black ice vin chaud

Christmas chauffage Christmas Eve

neige woolly hat écharpe

FR _FRHXU ___________ EN KHDUW ____________

FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

2.

3.

• avoir les ~~~~ qui sifflent • de bouche à ~~~~ • faire la sourde ~~~~

• une ~~~~ de champagne • remporter la ~~~~ • une ~~~~ de cheveux

FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

FR _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EN _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

GUESS WHO

un sapin de Noël un cadeau une guirlande de Noël

The perfect match Match the picture to the correct word

66 Living France December 2018

Which French actor famously portrayed Cyrano de Bergerac – a Gascon soldier with a large nose – in the 1990 film inspired by the play by Edmond Rostand? a. Gérard Depardieu b. Jean Reno c. Vincent Cassel Which French politician became the leader of the French Resistance during the Second World War and issued a famous radio broadcast from London? a. Jean Moulin b. Charles de Gaulle c. Édouard Daladier

completefrance.com

Our favourite French expression

Unscramble the letters to find four French French Christmas dishes 1 IEDO SARG 2 TISHURE 3 ROTESCAGS 4 NEDID

Avoir la moutarde qui monte au nez (to have mustard going up one’s nose)

PUZZLES COMPILED BY SOPHIE GARDNER-ROBERTS ; CROSSWORD BY JAN TODD PICTURES © GETTY IMAGES

Crossword

subscription WIN! ato12-month Living France Put your French to the test and complete this month’s crossword to be in with a chance of winning a 12-month subscription to Living France. The closing date for entries is 26 December 2018.

ANSWERS TO THE OCTOBER ISSUE: Across: 8 Aujourd’hui, 10 Avenir, 11 Êtes, 12 Éviter, 13 Mille, 14 Devant, 15 Esclavage, 19 Ceux-là, 23 Brésil, 24 Vouloir, 25 Miroir, 27 Exprès, 29 Réveiller, 31 Grippe, 34 Sable, 36 Piqûre, 37 Soif, 39 Rêveur, 40 Enseignant.

Down: 1 Quatre, 2 Argent, 3 Choix, 4 Divers, 5 Mal, 6 Genièvre, 7 Ciel, 9 Oiseaux, 16 Libre, 17 Grise, 18 Sous, 20 Exigé, 21 Avril, 22 Dois, 26 Oreiller, 28 Poisson, 30 Épices, 31 Guérir, 32 Peigne, 33 Ouest, 35 Avec, 38 Arc. The winner of the October crossword is: Paul Comaish from Leeds

completefrance.com

Across 1 beard (5) 4 to botch, to do shoddy

38 ‘are you sleeping?’ - ‘tu t’...?’ (6) 39 useful (5)

work (6) 8 downstream (from) - ‘en ... (de)’ (4) 11 midnight (6) 12 robin (the bird) (5-5) 14 to spend (8) 15 to throw (6) 16 to speak (6) 17 ‘we will go’ - ‘nous ...’ (5) 18 (a) roast, (a) joint (e.g. of beef) (4) 20 dirty (4) 22 grapes (7) 25 ‘I’m going out’ - ‘Je ...’ (4) 27 nine (4) 29 penknife, pocket knife (5) 30 nanny (informal) (6) 31 since (6) 33 to end, to finish (8) 35 today (10) 36 future (6) 37 worms (4)

Down 2 friend (fem) (4) 3 bottle (9) 5 afternoon (5-4) 6 to rent, lease, hire (5) 7 real, tangible (fem. plural)

(7) 8 to subscribe - ‘s’...’ (7) 9 eagle (5) 10 to land (i.e. of a plane) (8) 13 at rest, resting - ‘au ...’ (5) 19 shot, shooting (3) 21 donkey (3) 23 nurse (masc.) (9) 24 (trade) union (8) 25 only (9) 26 worry, anxiety (5) 28 hawks, falcons (7) 29 barrack (soldiers accommodation) (7) 32 study, investigation (5) 33 Chad (African country) (5) 34 honey (4)

To enter our prize crossword competition, complete the grid and fill in your details in the coupon below, then send them by post to: Living France Crossword Competition, Cumberland House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, GL50 1BB quoting ref: CROSSLFDEC18 Name Address

Tel Email Terms and conditions: Standard Archant competition rules apply, and are available on the completefrance.com website. One entry per household. The judge’s decision is final and binding and no correspondence will be entered into. Neither Archant employees nor their relatives are eligible to enter the competition. The winners will be notified of their prize after the closing date and their name will be published in the next issue. Unless you have chosen to receive other information from us, Archant Community Media Limited will solely use the data you provide for the purpose of running the competition, including contacting winners and the distribution of any prize.

December 2018on Living France Check your answers page 85 67

THE

ESSENTIALS The practical information you’ll need to know when moving to and living in France, including expert legal, financial and property advice

72 74

GUIDE TO: FRENCH TAXES An overview of the main taxes you’ll have to pay on your home and income in France

GUIDE TO: FRENCH TAXES – VOCABULARY Essential vocab and phrases

ASK THE EXPERTS Your questions answered by our panel of experts. This month: driving licences, lease agreements and protected planning zones

68 Living France December 2018

76 78 80

THE BREXIT FACTOR Our expert takes a look at how the pound to euro exchange rate has reacted to Brexit

PENSION PLANS The issues to be aware of if you’re considering transferring your UK pension to a QROPS

PROPERTY AND

CURRENCY NEWS The latest from the French property market, plus a currency update

82 84 86

HOMES FOR ALL BUDGETS Whatever your budget, we’ve hand-picked six properties which are just waiting to be discovered

ROUTE MAP All the routes to France in one place to help you plan your journey across the Channel

PROPERTY DIRECTORY A guide to the buying process in France, plus properties for sale and to let across the country

completefrance.com

VAISON-LA-ROMAINE © TRABANTOS / GETTY IMAGES

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Selling your house in France?

Advertise your property at the France Show at Olympia with our Private Sellers Package For £170 + VAT, we will: • Design and produce an A4 full colour leaflet • Print 150 copies of your leaflet • Display them on the Private Sellers stand • Display your property for sale for 3 months on www.francepropertyshop.com • Include your leaflet in a digital supplement sent to French Property News subscribers.

Deadline to book your private sales package: 4th January 2019.

Contact The France Sales Team for information on +44 (0)1242 264750 | Standsales@FPEXH.com

www.thefranceshow.com completefrance.com

December 2018 Living France 69

THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE TO: FRENCH TAXES With a number of tax reforms due to come into effect in France in 2019, including a new PAYE system, Kate McNally outlines the main taxes the average resident will have to pay on their income and French home

VAT TVA (taxe sur la valeur ajoutée) in France is currently at a rate of 20% for the majority of goods and services. An intermediary TVA of 10% applies to housing renovation work, food prepared for immediate consumption (e.g. restaurants and cafés), transport and alcohol.

There is a reduced TVA of 5.5% on necessary commodities, including food products, non-alcoholic drinks, school

70 Living France December 2018

lunches and energy products. This rate also applies to energy-saving improvements and – reflecting a commitment to cultural and leisure activities – to zoo, cinema and theatre tickets, as well as book sales.

Finally, a super reduced rate of 2.1% is applied in some cases, notably for certain reimbursable pharmacy medicines and also for newspapers.

Certain goods and services are also subject to tax credits, for example childcare, environmentally friendly home improvements or products, and personal services such as cleaning and gardening.

INCOME TAX Income tax is levied on the total worldwide income from earnings, investments, property rental and pensions of anyone whose principal residence is in France. The UK currently has a double tax treaty with France to avoid dual taxation.

Post-Brexit, it remains to be seen if this stays in place.

French society is in a bit of a panic at the moment, awaiting the roll-out of the new pay-as-you-earn tax revenue system, known as prélèvement à la source – the system favoured by the vast majority of European countries, including the UK. There is some confusion about how the new system works, inevitably fears that the change will lead to higher taxes, and, for some, consternation that employers will be able to gauge your household earnings (in France income tax is levied on combined household earnings as opposed to individual earnings) and may be less tempted to give a pay rise if, for example, your other half earns a good wage.

To date, French residents have paid their income tax at the end of the year based on the previous year’s earnings – so, at the end of December 2018 (the French tax year is from January to December), you

pay the tax on your earnings for 2017. This time lapse has sometimes proved difficult in the past if a person’s work situation changes significantly from year to year.

Prélèvement à la source offers a more ‘realtime’ tax collection system.

To allay any fears, the government has provided a couple of alternative options within the new regime, while seeking to channel most individuals towards their simpler, preferred option (household tax rate) which it has nominated as the default. (It is also the option most people are likely to choose.)

These options are: • Household tax rate (le taux du foyer) – this is the tax authorities’ default tax.

It takes into account total household earnings and the composition of the household, for example any children or elderly family members for whom the wage earners are financially responsible.

• Individually applied household tax rate (le taux individualisé) – this option also applies a tax rate to the household, however each of the household earners can request that their contribution is adjusted according to their individual salary level, i.e. the higher earner will pay a higher percentage of the overall income tax due.

• Applied general individual rate (le taux non personnalisé) – this option is for those who don’t wish their employer to know what rate of income tax applies to their household. In this case, the employer applies the tax levy directly relevant to the employee’s salary, as would be applied for single employees with no children. If necessary, the employee pays any difference owing to the tax authorities (i.e. when adjusted to the actual overall household earnings) at the end of the year.

completefrance.com

PHOTO © LIGORKO / GETTY IMAGES; EVERYDAYPLUS / GETTY IMAGES

F

rench tax reforms are in the air. Emmanuel Macron swept into the Elysée with promises to change the system, and slowly but surely he is pushing ahead despite the unions flexing their muscles.

Key changes for individuals include the switch to taxing income at source, as practised by the majority of European countries, from January 2019, plus a gradual scrapping of the annual taxe d’habitation (which is equivalent to the council tax), starting with an initial reduction this year.

So, let’s take a look at what taxes the average resident in France will have to pay in 2019.

CALCULATING ANNUAL REVENUE TAX ACCORDING TO HOUSEHOLD INCOME As in many countries, France has different tax bands according to the level of earnings (see table below). But, as mentioned previously, rather than taxing individual earnings, France taxes household earnings in a complicated formula designed to favour couples and families.

Basically, household earnings – in most cases the parents’ incomes – are combined and divided by the number of parts, i.e. family members, making up the household. For these parts, two adults married or living together count as one share each, the first two children as a half share, and any further children also as one share. The resulting figure is used to calculate the income tax due by way of a further complicated equation involving the relevant tax band and, once again, the number of parts.

SOCIAL SECURITY CHARGES Equivalent to National Insurance payments in the UK, the charges sociales in France (which are also known as cotisations sociales) are collected by the state and used to fund France’s welfare system under an administration-heavy redistribution system.

Although contributions were slightly reduced for both companies and their employees in 2018, they are still sizeable in comparison to many countries. For individuals for example, they represent between 15 and 20% of gross earnings, depending on salary levels.

Contributions for the various welfare funds in France are deducted from the monthly wage at source.

Income tax bands in France for 2018 Up to €9,807

0%

From €9,807 to €27,086

14%

From €27,086 to €72,617

30%

From €72,617 to €153,783

41%

Above €153,783

45%

liable to pay the whole tax for that year, even if new owners move in in February.

You can, however, arrange in the sale contract to recoup some of the sum on a pro-rata basis.

You can set up monthly direct debits to pay as you go throughout the year or pay in full (or in installments, by arrangement) at the end of the year.

TAXE FONCIÈRE

TAXE D’HABITATION

This tax is basically equivalent to the former property rates system in the UK and is levied on property owners in France, even if they rent out the property.

The fee is based on a figure representing half the estimated annual rental value of the house, multiplied by a percentage agreed by the local commune. Amounts can vary significantly, but are generally within a range of a few hundred to a couple of thousand euros.

The taxe foncière is collected in arrears for the whole calendar year every autumn.

This is worth bearing in mind when buying or selling a house in France, as the existing owner, as at January of that year, will be

Akin to the UK’s council tax, the taxe d’habitation will be a tax of the past for 80% of French homes by 2020. Macron came into the Elysée promising to scrap this tax, and many households are set to benefit from a 30% reduction this year, a further 65% reduction in 2019, then zero payment in 2020.

Beneficiaries of the tax cut are once again determined by the famous quotient familial (calculated according to combined income and the number of household members, as for tax on revenues).

The tax will, however, continue to apply to second homes. Again, this tax bill arrives in the autumn.

completefrance.com

CONTRIBUTION À L’AUDIOVISUEL PUBLIC All households must pay the contribution à l’audiovisuel public (which was formerly known as the redevance audiovisuelle) if there is a television in the home. The fee is currently €139.

Anyone who does not have a television should inform the tax authorities by ticking the relevant box on their annual income tax return.

The government recently announced plans to reform this audiovisual tax, effectively to widen its reach to include computers, tablets and mobile phones, now also regularly used to access audiovisual material.

EXTRAS There are, of course, a whole host of other taxes – on inheritance, wealth and capital gains, for example. The tax experts are the best placed to advise you on these should the need arise.

TURN OVER

For our French taxes vocabulary guide

December 2018 Living France 71

THE ESSENTIALS

GUIDE TO: TAXES PRACTICAL VOCABULARY WORDS: SOPHIE GARDNER-ROBERTS

FILING A TAX RETURN

72 Living France December 2018

VRAI 1. Le prélèvement à la source existe déjà en France vrai faux 2. La TVA est à 5.5% pour les produits alimentaires vrai faux

OU

FAUX 3. La contribution à l’audiovisuel public est réservée aux propriétaires de salles de cinéma vrai faux

4. La taxe foncière sera supprimée en 2020 vrai faux 6. Les cotisations sociales sont prélevées à la source vrai faux

ANSWERS can be found on page 85

VOCABULAIRE • une déclaration d’impôts

• un formulaire

• double imposition

a tax return

a form

double taxation

• revenu income

• encaissés paid something in

• impôts sur le revenu income tax

• imposé

• le prélèvement à la source PAYE sytem – tax deducted at source

• perçus

• un traité

received

a treaty

taxed

• un avis d’imposition a tax bill

completefrance.com

© SUREEPORN / ARSENISSPYROS / GETTY IMAGES

Paul est arrivé en France en l’année dernière et se renseigne auprès de sa voisine et amie Marion comment faire sa déclaration d’impôts.

Paul: Salut Marion! J’ai besoin de ton aide avec les impôts français, je suis un peu perdu, tu as un peu de temps?

Marion: Oui, pas de soucis. Alors, que veux-tu savoir?

P: Eh bien, avant que j’arrive en France, je n’avais aucun revenu d’origine française mais des revenus anglais.

Depuis, j’ai travaillé ici. Lorsque je fais ma déclaration d’impôts sur le revenu pour l’année dernière, est-ce que j’inclus les revenus perçus en Angleterre avant d’arriver?

M: Alors oui, il y a un formulaire annexe pour la déclaration des revenus encaissés à l’étranger que tu rajouteras à ta déclaration de revenus français.

P: D’accord....mais je vais être imposé deux fois alors?!

M: Non il y a un traité en place qui évite la double imposition, mais tu dois quand-même déclarer tes revenus.

P: Okay. Je peux faire ça en ligne?

M: Oui, oui c’est mieux. Mais d’ailleurs, en janvier 2019, le prélèvement à la source va être introduit, ce qui, en principe, rendra les choses plus simples, mais on attend de voir comment le système fonctionnera.

P: Et tout ce qui est taxe d’habitation et taxe foncière restent pareil?

M: Oui, oui tu recevras un avis d’imposition et tu devras payer comme d’habitude à la fin de l’année.

P: Bon okay, c’est un peu plus clair, je te remercie.

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THE ESSENTIALS

Q&A: ASK THE EXPERTS Our panel of experts provide the answers to your queries

PROTECTED PLANNING ZONES

Q

I have viewed a property I’m interested in buying in Brittany and if I go ahead with the purchase I’d want to carry out some renovation work. A friend who already owns a house in France said I should check whether the property is within a protected planning zone – what does that mean and how would I find out?

A

In France, many towns and villages (or certain areas within them) carry protected status, and although the terminology is currently changing, the zones are still commonly known as being within the zone de protection du patrimoine architectural urbain et paysager (ZPPAUP). This means that properties or land within these zones are subject to specific planning constraints in order to maintain the aesthetic appearance, architectural relevance, and/ or historic importance of the area. Land or property within a protected zone that would be possibly affected by these regulations include: • Any property within 500m of a historic building or monument eg church or chapel, ancient dolmen, etc.

• Property within a national park.

• Listed buildings – as in the UK, there are different types of listing – some affect only the exterior, while others apply to the interior. It would be very unusual to have an internal listing without an accompanying external one, but the reverse is more common.

Owners can initially check with the mairie (local town hall) or planning office,

and request a meeting with any other authorities where necessary.

For example, all work for which permission is needed will be subject to approval by the regional architectural office, known as the ABF (architecte des bâtiments de France).

If the ABF do not approve elements of the work, then they will either approve the application subject to certain conditions, or refuse it altogether, so it is important to take care when completing the planning dossier, and to take account of local requirements. A meeting with the local ABF can be arranged prior to the submission of a planning application to ensure it conforms with the regulations.

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS Many towns and villages in France are governed by one of several types of planning framework – the most common is called a PLU (plan local d’urbanisme).

This framework sets out in detail the general planning considerations for various zones within the town. Where there is some form of heritage or protected status, this local planning framework is usually issued in conjunction with

other regulations, such as the ZPPAUP mentioned earlier, and all regulations need to be taken account of.

Prior to undertaking any works on a property within a protected zone, it is essential to obtain authorisation through one form of planning application or another. As a rule, this will be a demande de permis de construire, even where under normal circumstances, a simpler déclaration préalable could suffice.

This allows the planning authority and other agencies to best assess the works concerned before issuing their response.

Although the precise requirements will vary from property to property, it is best to remember that any change to the external appearance of such a building cannot be undertaken without permission.

The planning application and a complete dossier must be submitted to the mairie in the first instance, who will pass it on to the various authorities in order for each to review the details. Because of the potential number of different departments involved, the process can take considerably longer than a ‘normal’ application – it may take up to six months in some cases.

The experts experts The ARTHUR CUTLER

MATTHEW CAMERON

MADELINE AVESON-GRUBER

is director of French Plans, which offers a planning and design service throughout France. frenchplans.com

is a partner and head of the French legal services team at Ashtons Legal. ashtonslegal.co.uk

of Aquitaine Lifestyle Solutions helps people with questions concerning day-to-day life in France. aquitaine-lifestylesolutions.com

74 Living France December 2018

completefrance.com

© BLUEJAYPHOTO / GETTY IMAGES; DESIGNER491 / GETTY IMAGES; LITTLEBLOKE / GETTY IMAGES

PETER CARTER

RENTING IN FRANCE

Q

I had been renting a house in France for a year and have recently moved out. My landlord is refusing to give my deposit back because of some damp and marks on the carpet, but I feel I have kept the house in good condition and thought that wear and tear should be allowed? Is there anything I can do to get my deposit back?

MIRIAM BARNABY

A

The terms of the lease agreement would need to be reviewed before being able to answer this question properly. Even though a lease may have been an entirely standard pro-forma rental agreement, it is important to study it carefully, in advance of signature, so that the incoming tenant will fully understand their rights and obligations. It is possible, albeit perhaps unlikely, that the lease would have required that the property would be returned in a pristine state.

Another point to bear in mind when completing a lease – even a short-term one – is that an inventory of the state of the property (an état des lieux) should be prepared.

This should detail the state of the property, and should be countersigned by both parties before being annexed to the

SHOULD I GET A FRENCH DRIVING LICENCE?

Q

I have lived in France for several years now but still have a British driving licence, which needs to be renewed.

In view of Brexit, would it be better to renew my British licence or apply for a French one, as I believe I can only have one or the other?

KARIN MALONE

A

There are an increasing number of questions around exchanging drivers licences from a UK one to a French one. As things stand currently it has not been a legal requirement to change your licence while the UK is part of the EU however things will change in the future due to Brexit, although no-one knows exactly how far-reaching these changes will be due to the deal/no deal scenarios yet to be decided.

What we do know for sure is that whatever the outcome, there will be some changes after the withdrawal.

lease agreement. At the end of the term, a new inventory is prepared, and any difference in the state of the property becomes irrefutable.

Presuming, however, that no such evidence was recorded in the current case, it becomes difficult to argue that the property was returned in the same state in which it was leased. If the landlord refuses to return the deposit, and if this is not in accordance with the terms of the lease, then the next stage would be to seek a court order to require its return. Unfortunately this is likely to be both costly and slow; probably more expensive than the deposit itself.

Hopefully, however, speaking directly to the landlord would lead to a compromise being reached.

31 December 2020. Agreements on mutual recognition of licences between the UK and the EU will form part of the negotiations on the future relationship during the transition period and the Department for Transport fully expects there to be an agreement on this.

NO DEAL However, if there’s no deal after March 2019, your driving licence may no longer be valid by itself when driving in the EU, unless it is accompanied by an International Driving Permit. It is possible that your residence in the EU means you need an EU recognised right to drive. IDPs are sent to a home address in the UK (the address on a licence) but may be provided instantly at certain UK Post Offices. The AA link for an IDP may not be valid after 29 March 2019.

BEFORE BREXIT You can exchange your UK driving licence for one from the EU country you live in before 29 March 2019. UK licence holders who do this will be able to re-exchange for a UK licence if they return to live in the UK.

DEAL

EU LICENCE IN THE UK

If there is a ratified Withdrawal Agreement and a transition period, your UK driving licence will remain valid at least until

After exit day, arrangements for EU licence holders who are visiting or living in the UK would not change. The UK does not

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MATTHEW CAMERON

require visiting motorists, for example those coming to the UK on holiday or who wish to drive on business, to hold a separate IDP to guarantee the recognition of their driving licence.

EU licence holders can drive on their EU licence until it expires, or until they reach the age of 70, or until three years after coming to live in the UK. For EU licence holders who passed their test in the EU or EEA, the UK would continue to exchange their licence as we do currently.

MADELINE AVESON-GRUBER

Q

DO YOU HAVE A QUESTION?

TO ASK OUR PANEL OF EXPERTS Email us at editorial@livingfrance.com

December 2018 Living France 75

THE ESSENTIALS

THE BREXIT FACTOR How has the UK’s vote to leave the EU impacted currency transfers to France? Matthew Andrews looks back on the past year to find out

KEY MOVEMENTS IN GBP/EUR • June 2016 – The UK’s vote to leave the EU and David Cameron’s subsequent resignation as Prime Minister sees GBP/EUR plummet from €1.31 to €1.20 in the 24 hours following the Brexit referendum.

• April 2017 – Theresa May calls a snap election. Expectations of a landslide victory for the Conservatives results in GBP/EUR nearing €1.20 for the first time since sterling’s dramatic sell-off following the EU referendum.

• June 2017 – The election results

•

•

•

•

in a hung parliament following an impressive performance from Labour.

The pound plunges as Theresa May is forced to make a pact with the Democratic Unionist Party in order to cling to power.

August 2017 – Following months of limited progress in Brexit negotiations GBP/EUR strikes €1.08, its worst level since the EU referendum and an eightyear low.

July 2018 – After months of talks Theresa May’s cabinet finally outlines what it seeks from a Brexit deal. The so-called Chequers plan faces criticism, leading to the resignation of two leading cabinet members and volatility in the pound.

Summer 2018 – GBP/EUR falls to €1.10, the pairing’s lowest levels so far in 2018, as fears of a no-deal Brexit fuels heavy selling of the pound.

October 2018 – The UK and EU are still yet to reach a withdrawal agreement, but optimism that a deal could be reached by the end of the year helped GBP/EUR claw its way back to €1.13.

SIMON AND SUSAN’S STORY Simon and Susan began planning their French property purchase in early 2017, seeking to capitalise on the jump in the GBP/EUR exchange rate in mid-spring.

The couple began searching for their new home in April, around the time when the GBP/EUR exchange rate reached a high of €1.19.

This meant their savings of £250,000 would provide them with a budget of around €297,500 to spend on their dream of purchasing a small farmhouse in rural France.

After a couple of months searching the pair stumbled across a twobedroom property for €283,000 that appeared perfect. Unfortunately by now it was August and the GBP/ EUR exchange rate had tumbled to just €1.08.

With Brexit negotiations still ongoing, this GBP/EUR volatility only looks set to continue, especially if a potential breakdown in talks results in the UK leaving Living France December 2018 the76EU without a deal

This shift in the exchange rate meant that their budget shrank to €270,000 and the couple were unable to purchase their dream property.

If the couple had looked into their currency transfer options early on, things could have worked out differently.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR CURRENCY TRANSFERS With Brexit negotiations still ongoing, this GBP/EUR volatility only looks set to continue, especially if a potential breakdown in talks results in the UK leaving the EU without a deal.

Fortunately there are a few things you can do to help minimise your exposure to this and maximise the returns on your currency transfers.

All of these things start with finding the right kind of currency provider.

While you could use your bank, there are a number of benefits to using a leading currency broker instead.

One such benefit is the fact that with a currency broker you can secure a more competitive exchange rate and avoid transfer fees.

On top of this, most currency brokers also offer a range of different services that can help you time your transfers effectively, including:

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PHOTO © MARIANVEJCIK / GETTY IMAGES

I

t may seem hard to believe, but the UK is now only a few short months away from leaving the European Union, with Brexit set to take place on 29 March 2019.

The two-and-a-half years since the UK voted to leave the EU have been filled with concerns over what Brexit means for the UK economy.

The uncertainty surrounding the outcome has had a dramatic impact, not just on the pound but the entire currency market. Here we take a look at how the pound to euro (GBP/EUR) exchange rate has reacted to the EU referendum and what this means for those transferring money to France.

CURRENCY GLOSSARY

Base currency: The base currency is the first currency listed in a currency pair.

Currency pair: A currency pair is the two currencies that make up an exchange rate – the base currency followed by the quote currency.

Currency transfer: Simply using one currency to buy another currency – transferring one for the other.

Deposit: To store money, whether depositing your own money in a bank for further use, or paying a fraction of a total sum as a down payment for a contract. This can include deposits on a forward contract.

Exchange rate: The relative value of two currencies. For example, if the offered pound to euro (GBP/EUR) exchange rate is 1.15, this means you would get 1.15 euros for each pound.

Forex: An abbreviation of foreign exchange. Foreign exchange is the process of exchanging one currency for another.

FX: Like forex, FX simply stands for foreign exchange.

MARKET UPDATES

RATE ALERT

One of the best ways to plan your currency transfer for the right time is to stay up-todate with the latest currency movements.

This can be done easily by signing up to receive free market updates from a reputable currency broker. These will be delivered straight to your inbox and provide all the insights you need to make an informed decision.

If you’re in no rush to make your currency transfer and you’d like to target a specific exchange rate, you should talk to your currency broker about setting up a rate alert. You simply tell them the rate you’d like to achieve and they’ll notify you as soon as the market rises to that level.

FORWARD CONTRACT A forward contract allows you to fix an exchange rate for up to two years, which is perfect if you are scheduling a future transfer.

This service is particularly useful for anyone looking to purchase a property abroad as it ensures your transfer is protected from any unfavourable movements in the currency market while you hunt for your dream property or finalise your purchase.

REGULAR TRANSFERS Regular transfers provide a way to automate recurring currency transfers with minimal fuss. A regular transfer is ideal for anyone needing to make monthly transfers to France to receive a UK pension, cover mortgage payments or pay for general living costs.

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LIMIT ORDER If you don’t need to move your money immediately and have time to wait for a more favourable exchange rate, a limit order is a great way for you to get the most out of your transfer.

Pick a rate higher than the current market level and the transfer will take place automatically if the market reaches that level. Brexit remains a contentious issue for currency markets and the fallout from the UK’s exit from the EU is likely to have a considerable impact on GBP/EUR exchange rates for a long time to come.

But by managing your funds effectively and making use of all the different services available, you should be able to make the most of your money – leaving you to sit back, relax and enjoy everything France has to offer!

Matthew Andrews is a currency analyst at TorFX. torfx.com

Interbank rate: The interbank rate is the rate of exchange that banks and major financial institutions around the world secure for currency transfers. This is the most wholesale level of foreign exchange.

ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation): An independent global organisation that works alongside other organisations like SWIFT in order to maintain standards in IBAN codes and other regulations. It is also the organisation behind globally used currency codes – like ‘GBP’ for pound and ‘EUR’ for euro.

Money transfer: A digital transfer of funds – so no physical cash. Wiring money, writing a cheque, or otherwise electronically transferring funds are all types of money transfer.

Payee: The party being paid. In the world of currency transfers, it would simply be the party receiving a money transfer and is usually called the ‘recipient’ or ‘beneficiary’.

Quote: Much like how you’re given a quote for a car purchase, a quote in the context of currency transfers would be the offered exchange rate price.

Settlement date: The date when a contract settles or ends. All the agreed payments in the contract should have been made by this point. With something like a forward contract, this is the date on which the agreed frozen exchange rate would stop being available to you.

Spot contract: Think of it like an ‘on-the-spot’ contract – this term refers to making an immediate currency transfer at the current exchange rate.

December 2018 Living France 77

THE ESSENTIALS

PENSION PLANS Transferring a UK pension to a Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme (QROPS) has benefits but there are a number of important issues for Frenchresident expats to be aware of, as Robert Kent explains

A

re you one of the many people who have accumulated several pensions over your working life and are now wondering how to manage them all simply? Added to the administration woes is the fact that everything is in sterling. The UK currency may not be the favoured currency of the moment, given the political situation, so the possibility to access the local currency in your new home country may be attractive. There may also be concerns about financial consequences of leaving an array of pensions to your beneficiaries.

In April 2006 the QROPS (Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme) was created, the result of EU legislation citing that pensions needed to have portability within the zone. The positives of using a QROPS are: • The possibility of denominating your pension in euros • The ability to leave the value to your family • Avoidance of UK inheritance tax A QROPS appears to be an attractive solution; all the boxes ticked, issues solved, thank you and goodbye! However, there are some grey areas to contemplate.

QROPS ARE USUALLY IN A TRUST

IS IT A PENSION? There is a considerable risk that a QROPS may not be considered as a pension. In the past we tried working with the French administration fiscale (fisc) and a company in Malta, to design a workable structure for French residents. In the end the project had to be dropped as the fisc took the view that if a QROP, in any way, fell outside of the rules that applied to a French PERP (a French private pension), they would not view it as a pension, and merely as a pot of money.

Given that I viewed a PERP as less flexible than a UK SIPP, and QROPS were way more open, the project seemed worthless. I questioned this logic and still do. No matter how questionable, however, it creates a grey area.

The risk of merely not being a pension does not appear to be a huge concern. “So, what if I lose the 10% allowance given to pension income”, I hear you say. Not a problem if you can live with this minimal risk – but there’s more.

In April 2006 the QROPS (Qualifying Recognised Overseas Pension Scheme) was created, the result of EU legislation citing that pensions needed to have 78 Living France December 2018 the zone portability within

If a French resident puts capital in a trust, which is not perceived as a pension (see last point) then there is a far more significant issue. French residents placing capital into trusts are considered as gifting to a non-relative and will be taxed at 60% of the value given.

If there is even a slight risk that our clients might lose more than half of their life savings, we consider this worth highlighting extremely clearly.

Not surprisingly, not a single person was interested in a QROPS after comprehending the potential risk, no matter how remote it may be.

Moreover, those not declaring a trust will be subject to a penalty, which will amount to the higher of €20,000 or 12.5% of the trust value.

OTHER POTENTIAL ISSUES TO CONSIDER I started by mentioning the EU and so I also need to talk about Brexit and what that means. The answer, as is often the case with Brexit, is that no one has any firm knowledge of what will happen next (though you will read plenty of opinion aired as fact), so we are left with the joys of Brexit conjecture.

The argument is that if the QROPS is in the EU, all should be fine; as long as it happens before the UK leaves. The fact it is not a certainty causes concern.

Moreover, one has to be careful of the constantly changing landscape of laws and regulations around QROPS. There was a large QROPS in Asia which was suddenly closed down, as it was declared to be in breach of the rules set by the HM Revenue & Customs, leaving investors high and dry.

In fact, the provider won its case against the HMRC, but this caused investors significant issues as this was long after the structure’s closure.

We have seen special penalties

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© NUTHAWUT SOMSUKI / GETTY IMAGES; FABRIKACR / GETTY IMAGES

QROPS IN A NUTSHELL applied for certain QROPS of 25% if not ‘appropriately located’ and even 55% if not structured properly. I have other concerns around QROPS, which are more to do with my opinion of the QROPS market, rather than any legality of the structure itself. All of this uncertainty surrounding QROPS makes me uncomfortable with their use for French residents.

We have seen companies suggesting that a QROPS is a good easy first step to an assurance vie, thus the catalyst for being recommended. The ‘spin’ for doing this is that if the money is in a QROPS and not a UK pension, there are tax advantages.

While a UK pension will apply emergency of 20% tax to 75% of the capital, if you crystalise its value, a QROPS will apply no tax at all.

IS IT WORTH CONSIDERING? This sounds like a brilliant scheme, however, it does not actually save you a single cent of tax. As a non-UK resident, one can simply and quickly claim the tax back with an easy form. Normally, the tax is returned in around three to four weeks.

The cost of setting up the QROPS may run to thousands, so you have to ask

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A QROPS is an overseas pension scheme that meets certain requirements set by HM Revenue and Customs, and receives tax-free transfers from UK-registered pension funds. It was introduced in 2006 as a way of helping Brits who move abroad to simplify their affairs by taking their pension savings with them. QROPS usually offer more options than UK pensions for how your money is invested, and whereas most UK pensions are only payable to your spouse on death, QROPS offers the option to include other heirs.

yourself whether you are willing to pay thousands to the happy financial adviser to avoid filling out an HMRC form to get the tax back and then more to set up an assurance vie with the same money, meaning the adviser is paid twice.

One of the downsides of a QROPS used to be that, if it was viewed as a pot of money, it also became wealth taxable. This problem has disappeared, as long as the QROPS is not invested in property, since capital is no longer an issue as wealth tax is now only applied to property.

In conclusion, my mantra is always ‘deal with certainty as far as possible’, so a QROPS would need to be the best and only option to recommend it.

This is not to say that QROPS are off the table but absolute honesty and openness is essential. People need to have all the information available (grey areas included) before they can make an intelligent and informed decision. So far the grey areas causing uncertainty, giving rise to risk, have always dissuaded people.

It is best to fully comprehend all of the options for your pension, but do tread very carefully and never let yourself be pressed to make up your mind.

There are options where you can have absolute certainty, so be sure to consider these before doing anything. Ensure that you take advice from a French qualified professional who understands all the potential consequences of any choices and is open and honest enough to share them with you.

Robert Kent is managing director of Kentingtons Tax & Investment Consultants kentingtons.com

December 2018 Living France 79

THE ESSENTIALS

PROPERTY NEWS

NEWS IN BRIEF

Whether you’re planning your move to France, or are already living there, we bring you the latest from the world of French property

ESCAPE TO THE CHÂTEAU RETURNS Dick and Angel have returned to Channel 4 in the UK for a fifth series of Escape to the Château. The series started on 11 November and will have seven weekly episodes, finishing in festive fashion with a Christmas special on 23 December. The series will follow the pair as they continue renovations of new areas of the enormous Château de la Motte Husson – their Loire Valley home. You can also see them launch their exciting new business venture ‘Château under the Stars’ – a luxury floating ‘geo-dome’ glamping experience.

Auron, southern alps

REMOTE DEED SIGNING A recent technological first from a French notaire could make life easier for real estate customers in France. The first ever remote electronic acte authentique (authenticated deed) has now been signed in France.

The process involved two offices in Illeet-Vilaine, a secure computer circuit and video conference facilities. Electronic acte authentiques have been in use for some time but this is the first time one has been signed remotely.

Inside the Le Vermont duplex

A

new development of luxury Alpine apartments is being built in Auron in the southern Alps.

Auron is the largest ski area in the Alpes-Maritimes department.

Properties available to buy in the development include one and two-bedroom apartments, as well as several spacious penthouses. Each apartment will have e a private balcony, Follow us for th latest news secure underground @LivingFrance parking and a

80 Living France December 2018

dedicated ski locker. From the outside, the Le Vermont apartment building design is sleek and modern while still in keeping with traditional Savoyard architecture in its use of stone and wood as well as its sloped roof.

Inside, the contemporary interiors will offer warmth, comfort and luxury – with solid oak flooring, floor-to-ceiling glass windows, underfloor heating and integrated appliances.

Auron ski resort offers 135km of pistes while also enjoying the sunshine of the French Riviera during the summer.

The ski resort will be open this season from 8 December 2018 to 22 April 2019

(depending on snow conditions) and offers a variety of snowsports, from skiing and snowboarding, to snowshoeing, snowscooting and cross-country trails.

Auron is on the edge of the Mercantour National Park, which runs along the border with Italy and is predominantly made up of lakes and mountains, while department capital Nice and its international airport are only 90km to the south.

Apartments in the Le Vermont development are on the market for €265,000 to €2,780,000, with completion expected at the beginning of 2021. finlaybrewer.co.uk/international/

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© KINDLING MEDIA; ROBERT PALOMBA; FINLAY BREWER INTERNATIONAL; IAN SOUTHERIN

Live a life of luxury in the southern Alps

CURRENCY UPDATE BREXIT BUMPS Chris Saint looks at recent currency ups and downs

PROPERTY AT THE FRANCE SHOW The France Show is returning to Olympia London on 25-27 January 2019. The show hosts the UK’s largest French Property Exhibition and is a unique opportunity to browse thousands of properties for sale, talk to agents about your plans and get free expert advice on buying or living in France. Tickets are available to buy now (turn to p46 for our special reader offer) and include entry to the full programme of free seminars in the French Property News Theatre,

which will be situated on Level 2 of the show. Seating for the seminars is limited, so make sure you pick up your tickets early on the day from the property ticket desk outside the theatres. While you are at the show make sure to also visit the Flavours of France stage, where there will be lively performances from cancan dancers, cookery demonstrations from top French chefs, live music, informative talks from authors and much more.

Buy tickets at thefranceshow.com

TAXE D’HABITATION CHANGES Taxe d’habitation bills have arrived in homes across France and the rates have changed. The tax will be scrapped for 80% of French homes by 2020 and is being gradually reduced until then – but 6,000 communes had also voted to raise their local tax rate in 2018. The French Ministry of Action and Public Accounts has created an interactive map to help French residents see how the changes to taxe d’habitation are affecting their town, department and region. The map provides information on the average amount of housing tax per household in

completefrance.com

2018, as well as the number of households benefiting from the reduction and abolition of the tax in each area. The map can be found at economie.gouv.fr/particuliers. There is also an online form residents can fill in to find out whether their individual household is eligibile for the reform – residents would need to provide their tax reference, number of tax shares in the household and optionally the amount of their 2017 housing tax.

With other tax reforms coming into effect in 2019, turn to page 70 for our Guide to French Taxes

Sterling rose to €1.146 on 10 October, the highest since mid-June, on the back of news that Brexit negotiations were making headway prior to the EU summit the following week.

The UK also released positive gross domestic product (GDP) figures, with a rise of 0.7% in the three months to August exceeding market expectations. At the same time, the euro came under pressure from the ongoing Italian budget crisis, after the Italian finance minister confirmed plans to run a budget deficit of 2.4% of GDP. The EU Commission was worried about the impact of higher spending, given that Italy already has high levels of debt.

The remainder of October saw sterling pegged back against the euro. Plans for a further EU summit to finalise Brexit negotiations were scrapped after a lack of meaningful progress in negotiations, despite Theresa May insisting that 95% of the terms of a deal were in place. The key sticking point continued to be the Irish border, while speculation of a leadership challenge to the Prime Minister also contributed towards sterling weakness. This saw the pound drop to a month low of €1.118 on 30 October.

However, the Brexit pendulum swung once again, this time in the pound’s favour.

Dominic Raab, the Brexit Secretary, said he expected a deal with the EU to be reached by 21 November. The pound further extended gains on the news that the UK had agreed a deal with the EU over the treatment of financial service firms post-Brexit. hl.co.uk/currency

Don’t forget to sign up for the weekly newsletter completefrance.com/newsletters December 2018 Living France 81

THE ESSENTIALS

For more properties for sale across France visit francepropertyshop.com

HOMES FOR ALL BUDGETS

Follow @franceprop for the latest properties

Sometimes property hunting is simply about finding somewhere that feels like home. These ready-to-move-in properties suit a range of budgets

Maine-et-Loire

1

Noyant

Off a country lane and sitting in 2,000mð of grounds, this charming three-bedroom property is surrounded by beautiful open countryside. The peaceful country home comprises a fitted kitchen, lounge with traditional tiled floor, and one bedroom on the ground floor, plus two bedrooms with Velux windows and a bathroom on the first floor. The family can gather around one of the two fireplaces or the wood burner downstairs for a cosy evening together.

A supermarket, restaurants, bank and other shops and amenities can be found in the town of Noyant, which is about 5km away. leggettfrance.com

€88,000

Morbihan

2

Ploërdut

Renovated to a high standard, this terraced house in green and leafy countryside in the north-west of France boasts a good sized garden with a flat lawn – great for playing games and picnicking in the summer, and also featuring an historic stone shed. Inside the house, the lounge/dining room has a lovely granite fireplace and a wood-burning stove and the kitchen is fully-fitted with tiled floor and a stove and worktops on the central island. Upstairs, there is a high quality shower room, a mezzanine office/bedroom and a large master bedroom with exposed beams under the slanted roof. sextantproperties.com

€105,000

Var

3

€169,000

82 Living France December 2018

Bauduen

This rustic, character-filled home in sunny Côte d’Azur has its own private courtyard, with red tiles and plant life that let you know you are in the Mediterranean. The red tiles continue through the kitchen/dining room and living space, while wooden beans are visible on all ceilings. A large feature fireplace with mantelpiece draws the eye in the living room. The two bedrooms upstairs are bright and spacious and one leads on to a terrace. There is also a third bedroom in an independent studio. Bauduen sits on the edge of the stunning Lac de Sainte in the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon. beauxvillages.co.uk

completefrance.com

€345,000

EDITOR ’S

PyrénéesAtlantiques

Navarrenx

PICK

4

Beautifully restored and renovated, this five-bedroom, 18th-century Béarnaise farmhouse with mountain views comes with a swimming pool and 2,000mð of land. Shops, bars, restaurants and schools can be found nearby in the medieval fortress town of Sauveterre-de-Béarn. Original features such as the stone fireplace and bread oven give this house a traditional, homely feel. sophiefolley.com

Pas-de-Calais Tramecourt

5

Standing in its own wooded park of half an acre, this four-bedroom detached house is close to the market towns of Fruges and Hesdin and less than an hour from Calais and the Channel Tunnel. On the ground floor there is a large entrance hall, living area with exposed beams and log fireplace, a fitted kitchen with dining area, one of the bedrooms and a shower room. Upstairs are the other three bedrooms, a bathroom and a separate WC. This home has all modern comforts with electric heating, double glazing, and Velux windows with electric blinds. There is also a wine cellar and garage within the building. hexagonefrance.com

€230,500

Occitanie Péret Like the idea of a barn conversion but don’t want to do the converting yourself? This renovated stone barn in Péret is now a large family home. There is a slightly unconventional layout with the three bedrooms – each with its own shower room – and a garage on the ground floor. The living space with kitchen/living room is on the first floor. The first floor also opens on to a terrace with a pool and the property has further outdoor space with room for tables and chairs. Péret is a small village in the south of France and is about an hour from Montpellier. artaxa.com

6

€320,000

completefrance.com

December 2018 Living France 83

THE ESSENTIALS

ON THE MAP

Use our detailed map to help plan your route and understand France’s departmental and regional boundaries

THE DEPARTMENTS Each of France’s 96 departments is listed below with the departmental capital, or préfecture, in brackets.

01 Ain (Bourg-en-Bresse) 02 Aisne (Laon) 03 Allier (Moulins) 04 Alpes-de-Haute-Provence (Digne) 05 Hautes-Alpes (Gap) 06 Alpes-Maritimes (Nice) 07 Ardèche (Privas) 08 Ardennes (Charleville-Mézières) 09 Ariège (Foix) 10 Aube (Troyes) 11 Aude (Carcassonne) 12 Aveyron (Rodez) 13 Bouches-du-Rhône (Marseille) 14 Calvados (Caen) 15 Cantal (Aurillac) 16 Charente (Angoulême) 17 Charente-Maritime (La Rochelle) 18 Cher (Bourges) 19 Corrèze (Tulle) 2a Corse-du-Sud (Ajaccio) 2b Haute-Corse (Bastia) 21 Côte-d’Or (Dijon) 22 Côtes-d’Armor (St-Brieuc) 23 Creuse (Guèret)

24 Dordogne (Périgueux) 25 Doubs (Besançon) 26 Drôme (Valence) 27 Eure (Évreux) 28 Eure-et-Loir (Chartres) 29 Finistère (Quimper) 30 Gard (Nîmes) 31 Haute-Garonne (Toulouse) 32 Gers (Auch) 33 Gironde (Bordeaux) 34 Hérault (Montpellier) 35 Ille-et-Vilaine (Rennes) 36 Indre (Châteauroux) 37 Indre-et-Loire (Tours) 38 Isère (Grenoble) 39 Jura (Lons-le-Saunier) 40 Landes (Mont-de-Marsan) 41 Loir-et-Cher (Blois) 42 Loire (St-Étienne) 43 Haute-Loire (Le Puy) 44 Loire-Atlantique (Nantes) 45 Loiret (Orléans) 46 Lot (Cahors) 47 Lot-et-Garonne (Agen) 48 Lozère (Mende) 49 Maine-et-Loire (Angers)

50 Manche (St-Lô) 51 Marne (Châlons-en-Champagne)

52 Haute-Marne (Chaumont) 53 Mayenne (Laval) 54 Meurthe-et-Moselle (Nancy) 55 Meuse (Bar-le-Duc) 56 Morbihan (Vannes) 57 Moselle (Metz) 58 Nièvre (Nevers) 59 Nord (Lille) 60 Oise (Beauvais) 61 Orne (Alençon) 62 Pas-de-Calais (Arras) 63 Puy-de-Dôme (Clermont-Ferrand) 64 Pyrénées-Atlantiques (Pau) 65 Hautes-Pyrénées (Tarbes) 66 Pyrénées-Orientales (Perpignan) 67 Bas-Rhin (Strasbourg) 68 Haut-Rhin (Colmar) 69 Rhône (Lyon) 70 Haute-Saône (Vesoul) 71 Saône-et-Loire (Mâcon) 72 Sarthe (Le Mans)

73 Savoie (Chambéry) 74 Haute-Savoie (Annecy) 75 Ville-de-Paris (Paris) 76 Seine-Maritime (Rouen) 77 Seine-et-Marne (Melun) 78 Yvelines (Versailles) 79 Deux-Sèvres (Niort) 80 Somme (Amiens) 81 Tarn (Albi) 82 Tarn-et-Garonne (Montauban)

83 Var (Toulon) 84 Vaucluse (Avignon) 85 Vendée (La Roche-sur-Yon)

86 Vienne (Poitiers) 87 Haute-Vienne (Limoges) 88 Vosges (Épinal) 89 Yonne (Auxerre) 90 Territoire-de-Belfort (Belfort) 91 Essonne (Évry) 92 Hauts-de-Seine (Nanterre) 93 Seine-St-Denis (Bobigny) 94 Val-de-Marne (Créteil) 95 Val-d’Oise (Pontoise)

TRAVEL INFORMATION FERRIES Brittany Ferries Tel: 0330 159 7000 brittany-ferries.co.uk Stena Line Tel: 01 907 5555 stenaline.ie Condor Ferries Tel: 0345 609 1024 condorferries.co.uk Irish Ferries Tel: 0818 300 400 irishferries.com DFDS Seaways Tel: 0871 574 7235 dfdsseaways.co.uk

P&O Ferries Tel: 0800 130 0030 poferries.com RAIL Eurotunnel Tel: 08443 35 35 35 eurotunnel.com Eurostar Tel: 0343 218 6186 eurostar.com Voyages-sncf.com Tel: 0844 848 5848 uk.voyages-sncf.com

84 Living France December 2018

AIRLINES Aer Arann Tel: 0871 718 5000 aerarann.com Aer Lingus Tel: 0333 004 5000 aerlingus.com Air France Tel: 0207 660 0337 airfrance.co.uk Aurigny Air Services Tel: 01481 822 886 aurigny.com Blue Islands Tel: 01234 589 200 blueislands.com

bmi regional Tel: 0330 333 7998 bmiregional.com British Airways Tel: 0844 493 0787 britishairways.com CityJet Tel: 0203 481 1259 cityjet.com easyJet Tel: 0330 365 5000 easyjet.com Flybe Tel: 0871 700 2000 flybe.com

IG Avion Tel: 0033 826 991 080 igavion.fr Jet2 Tel: 0333 300 0404 jet2.com Lyddair Tel: 01797 322 207 lyddair.com Ryanair Tel: 0871 246 0000 ryanair.com Swiss International Tel: 0845 601 0956 swiss.com

completefrance.com

Brittany Ferries  (Portsmouth & Poole) Stena Line (Rosslare) Condor Ferries  (Portsmouth) Irish Ferries (Rosslare & Dublin)

Eurostar Eurotunnel (Folkestone) P&O Ferries (Dover) DFDS Seaways (Dover)

Lyddair

DFDS Seaways (Dover)

DFDS Seaways (Newhaven) Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth) Flybe 

62 HAUTS-DE59 FRANCE

Le Touquet

80 Dieppe Cherbourg

Irish Ferries  (Rosslare) Brittany Ferries  (Plymouth & Cork)

Roscoff

Dinard 22 BrETAGNE

29

Quimper Flybe

14 NormandIE 61

St-Malo

Rennes

35

56

Lorient

53

27

easyJet Ryanair Flybe

85

10 45

Ryanair British Airways Ryanair Flybe

Ryanair

Ryanair Jet2 Flybe  British Airways 

32 65 Lourdes Ryanair easyJet  Flybe  British Airways 

09

S N O W R V

E

E R

L

V G

D E L

S

I A

C

completefrance.com

O

N N E T M N U O L L L E H S D L E O N W A I T N I E N G A R F

30

Nîmes

26

73

Bourg-St-Maurice

11

Eurostar (Dec-Apr)

Moûtiers

38 05

ProvenceAlpes-Côte d’Azur 84 Avignon 06 04 13

34

British Airways  Flybe Jet2 Air France 

easyJet Jet2 Ryanair Norwegian Flybe British Airways 

British Airways easyJet Jet2 Flybe

Nice

Aix-en-Provence Marseille 83 Toulon

Flybe

Bastia Calvi

66

Aer Lingus British Airways easyJet Jet2 Flybe Ryanair

easyJet Ryanair

Ryanair

Check websites for details

LES MOTS CACHÉS

07

Béziers

Flybe  Ryanair Aer Lingus

FIVE MINUTE french answers

Grenoble

48

Perpignan Ryanair

Ryanair 

74

Chambéry

Montpellier

Carcassonne

IG Avion

Aimela-Plage

Lyon

42

43

12

81

Toulouse

Seasonal flights

B

15

31

Pau

64

69

OCCITANIE 82

40 Biarritz

ClermontFerrand

Rodez

British Airways easyJet Flybe Jet2 Swiss International Blue Islands from Jersey & Guernsey Eurostar

Geneva

01

Bergerac

47

BaselMulhouse

39

Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

46

British Airways easyJet Swiss International Ryanair

Besançon

03 63

90

BOURGOGNE25 Franche-Comté

23

Brive

Bordeaux

33

Aer Lingus British Airways easyJet Flybe Ryanair

O

Dijon

58

67

68

70

71

Limoges 16 NOUVELLE Aquitaine 19 24

17

54

88

21

36

87

British Airways

C

89

86

La Rochelle

Ryanair

Strasbourg

52

Orléans

Centre-VAL DE LOIRE 18

Poitiers

79

57

55

GRAND-EST

Tours

37

Metz

51

Ile-deFrance

41

49

08

Châlons-enChampagne

Châteauroux

Aer Lingus Flybe

easyJet  Flybe Ryanair

02

Marnela-Vallée

Paris

72

ANGERS

Nantes

Rouen

Eurostar

60

28

Pays-dela-Loire

44

British Airways 

Deauville

Caen

Amiens

76

Le Havre

50

Eurostar

Lille

Ryanair Aurigny

Brest

Dunkerque

Calais

Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth) DFDS Seaways (Portsmouth)

Brittany Ferries  (Portsmouth & Plymouth) Condor Ferries  (Poole & Weymouth)

Eurostar Ryanair Flybe Air France British Airways Jet2 Aer Lingus easyJet BMI Regional

Ryanair

Ryanair

Air France British Airways easyJet Ryanair Eurostar Eurostar (May-June) easyJet 

Corse 2b

Ajaccio

2a Figari

British Airways  Jet2 British Airways easyJet Eurostar Flybe

Flybe  Eurostar

Le Mot Commun 1. crème (cream) cream pot; hand cream; coffee with milk/cream 2. oreilles (ears) to have burning ears; word of mouth; to turn a deaf ear 3. coupe (cup) a champagne flute; to win the cup; a hair cut

Unscramble the letters to find four French Christmas dishes Huîtres Foie Gras Escargots Dinde

VRAI OU FAUX 2. a 1. b

The perfect match un sapin de Noël = Christmas tree un cadeau = gift une guirlande de Noël = tinsel

3. a

4. b

Air France easyJet  Flybe 

5. b

GUess who a. Gérard Depardieu b. Charles de Gaulle

December 2018 Living France 85

PROPERTIES FOR SALE

Property directory Whether you’re looking for a renovation project, the perfect holiday bolt-hole or that château you’ve always dreamed of, Living France’s property directory should be the first place to look. To help you hit the ground running, we’ve put together a back-to-basics guide to buying a French property. Bonne chance!

BUYING PROPERTY

DOS & DON’TS

Vendor and buyer agree on the price and terms of contract, including any conditional clauses (clauses suspensives) and any furniture included in the sale. z

DOS

z Agent’s fees (les frais d’agence) are

usually included in the price and as such, paid by the buyer. Check this is the case.

The notaire’s fixed fees plus tax (les frais de notaire) are also usually paid by the buyer and are on top of the purchase price. When buying privately, there will be no agent’s fees but notaire’s fees will still apply. z The preliminary sales contract

(compromis de vente) is drawn up by the agent or notaire and signed by both parties. If the buyer is buying privately from a vendor, it’s the notaire who draws up the contract.

z The notaire handles the conveyancing, which typically takes two to three months.

When all the paperwork is ready, the notaire confirms the date and time of the signing of the acte de vente.

Reports on lead, asbestos and flood zones (and in some areas, termites) are mandatory; the vendor pays for these. An energy-efficiency report (known as a DPE, or diagnostic de performance énergétique) is now also mandatory, while a natural disaster risk report (état des risques naturels et technologiques) has to be provided in addition. It specifies whether the property is within an area where there is a risk of flooding or other natural or technological disaster or accident. z

z The buyer pays the deposit (usually

5-10% of the purchase price) to the notaire and a 10-day cooling off period ensues, during which the buyer can withdraw (but the vendor cannot) and after which the contract is legally binding. If the buyer pulls out after this, he forfeits his deposit. z If you are going to buy with a mortgage,

now is the time to put in your application.

However, it is wise to apply for a mortgage in principle before you start your property hunt, to avoid disappointment later. z If you are taking out a mortgage, this

will be a condition of the preliminary sales contract, giving you the possibility of pulling out should your application be turned down. Once the offer is official, it will be confirmed to the notaire and the contract becomes unconditional.

z The buyer transfers the balance

of payment to the notaire prior to completion.

On the day of completion, all parties meet the notaire to sign the contract (the buyer can appoint a proxy). Keys and an attestation de vente are handed over and ownership is transferred. The final acte de vente papers are sent out around six months later.

Do ask to see an estate agent’s carte professionnelle, which they must hold in order to work as an estate agent in France.

Do check the records of the property and land before making an offer; be clear about boundaries, rights of way and access.

Do take legal advice on tax matters and inheritance law.

Do view the property on the day of completion before signing the acte de vente, which specifies that the purchase is ‘sold as seen’.

Do shop around in advance for the best currency exchange rate deals.

Do remember to open a French bank account and make your mortgage application in good time.

Do visit the Notaires de France website. It has lots of helpful information in English. notaires.fr

DON’TS Don’t be tempted to sign a sales contract unless you are sure; once the cooling-off period is over, it is legally binding and if you pull out you will lose your deposit.

Don’t forget that the notaire will make a charge of 6.5-10% in addition to the purchase price of the property (this amount is different for newbuilds). The cheaper the property, the higher the percentage charged; this amount consists of the notaire’s fixed fees and tax.

Don’t forget to allow for the expense of an interpreter being present if your French language skills are poor; ask your agent or notaire about this as they may be able to help.

Don’t forget that surveys are not commonplace in France but you can still arrange one.

Find thousands of properties for sale on our website France Property Shop

86 Living France December 2018

To advertise call 01242 216099 or email property@livingfrance.com completefrance.com

87

A selection of gorgeous properties !

Call us on +33 (0)8 05 69 23 23 Freephone from UK: 0800 270 0101 or visit www.beauxvillages.com

IMMOBILIER

4 bedroom house, Dordogne

Riverside location, Lot

Pretty cottage, Gironde

Character Villa, Lot-et-Garonne

Set on just over a hectare of land this well maintained centrally heated property is ready to enjoy. On the grounds there is a stone barn bursting with potential should you want a project. Just 2km from a village with all amenities and 65km from Bergerac airport.

In a truly magical setting and sitting proudly on the banks of a river is this quite remarkable stone built ensemble, surrounded by some of the most beautiful countryside in all of Europe. Renovated to an extremely high standard, using only the finest materials.

This detached 3 bedroom cottage with pretty terraced gardens blends original character features with modern conveniences. Situated in a quiet hamlet with pretty views over the countryside, it is only 50 minutes to Bordeaux.

This quintessentially French property in an elevated position has commanding views, a pretty landscaped garden with an abundance of mature olive, pomegranate and cherry trees with attractive outbuildings available to convert.

Ref: 17376

Ref: 21543

Ref: 21875

Ref: 22035

€189 950

€1 490 000

€171 200

€249 000

Two houses and a pool, Charente

Exclusive to Beaux Villages, Lot-et-Garonne

2 lovely stone houses, Dordogne

Your own Pigeonnier, Dordogne

Beautiful set of two houses with swimming pool on a fully fenced private garden 5 minutes from the popular village of Verteuil-sur-Charente. The enclosed garden of about 1200 m² is planted with trees and the 10 x 5 heated pool adds to the charm of this beautiful home.

Delightful 4 bedroom house with adjacent gite with gorgeous valley views near Villeneuvesur-Lot. Village shops in Casseneuil,Villeneuve offers all the services you would expect in a medium town. Bergerac Airport with regular flights to the UK is less than an hour away.

Exclusive to BVI, completely renovated to a high standard. Situated at the end of the small hamlet’s lane that wanders into a forest, so quiet and peaceful and not overlooked by any neighbours. Perigueux, with all its amenities is only 30 minutes away.

This is an original Pigonnier Tower, with parts dating back to the 15th Century. It has been extended on the ground floor and is laid out over 3 floors. With an abundance of character and original features, this really is the perfect holiday home.

Ref: 22049

Ref: 22063

Ref: 22163

Ref: 22166

€280 900

€248 040

€325 000

€199 500

Agence Immobilière Herman De Graaf Contact: Cate Carnduff Le Bourg-Saint-Jean de Côle – 24800 Thiviers – France.

Tel: 00 33 (0)553 62 38 03 Fax: 00 33 (0)553 55 08 03 e-mail: agence@immobilier-dordogne.com

Ref.4545 Region St Jean de Cole. Restored farmhouse with above ground pool & outbuildings, set on 3540m2 of land with lovely views. Living room with fireplace and open plan fitted kitchen, 4 bedrooms, mezzanine , office & 1 bathroom, Oil CH & cellar. . Sauna with shower & Jacuzzi.

Misc. sheds.

Ref.4426 Region Saint Jean de Cole. Well presented railway cottage with a garage, quietly set on 1200m2 of land with good views. Ground floor: living room with fireplace, fitted kitchen & shower room (WC, shower & basin); covered terrace . Upstairs: landing & 2 interconnecting bedrooms (10 & 16m2). Garage & wells.

Price: €200,000 agency fees included.

Price: €109,000 agency fees included

Montauban-de-Bretagne: 200 year old house and outbuildings

PRICE

€495,000

Situated on two hectares of land, this property has huge potential either as large house (planning permission available), a private house with four small cottages, or even as a restaurant or hotel.

Ref. 4547 Region Brantome. Bungalow built 1974 with outbuildings, quietly set by a small village on 1360m2 of land with beautiful views. Entrance, living roomwith fireplace, kitchen, WC, bathroom (bath & basin) & 3 bedrooms0; covered terrace. Garage (50m2) with boiler room (oil central heating).

Ref. 4063 Region Payzac. Restored farmhouse with swimming pool & barn, quietly set in a hamlet on 5730m2 of land with good views. Living room with fire ‘insert’ (wood CH) & fitted kitchen.

Upstairs: landing, shower room & 2 bedrooms ; cellar. Covered terraces & adj workshop. Partially converted barn (165m2). Pool: 4 x 8m.

Price: €149,800 agency fees included.

Price: €249,000 agency fees included.

w w w. i m m o b i l i e r- d o r d o g n e . c o m 88

The property has big French windows, a kitchen-diner, an original working fireplace, two double bedrooms, a master bedroom with a dressing room and en-suite containing a Jacuzzi. The ground floor extension is currently used as a professional kitchen, but could be converted.

Attached is a row of country cottages, which is currently one big reception room, with two bathrooms upstairs and two bathrooms downstairs. It could easily be converted into four holiday lets.

Call: +33(0)66 3951 007 • Email: Maghniataoufik35@gmail.com www.francepropertyshop.com/listing/484879

Allez-Français - leading property specialists for South West France since 2002

www.allez-francais.com

Beautiful 260 m2 17th century house professionally restored, modernised & extended

05 55 28 46 40 / 05 53 56 09 35 RSAC N°48183917300020 A small business, but big on initiative & ideas

N10673E Latillé, Vienne (86)

R10761E Maisonnais Sur Tardoire, Haute Vienne (87)

Immaculate house with 4 beds / 3 baths built on sous-sol, within a large garden with magnificent swimming pool at the edge of the market town of Latillé, 25 Km to Poitiers.

Price 320,250 € HAI Exclusive mandat

Fabulous timber framed property 3 beds / 2 baths, gardens of 3,788 m² set within the beautiful scenery of the Perigord-Limousin national park.

Price 197,500 € HAI Exclusive mandat

Situated in 1.9 acres of woodland and 15 minutes from Brive-Vallée-de-la-Dordogne airport and the nearest railway station. Three bedrooms (one en-suite) and separate bathroom and toilet. Lift in the main stairwell.

The séjour (16x6 m) features two large fireplaces. Large, modern fitted-kitchen (5x4 m), terrace, garage, vaulted cellar, wine cave and workshop. Traditional pigeonnier.

Mains water and electricity, land-line, satellite TV and internet. Double-glazed. 10x5 m pool, barbecue area, pool-house, small outhouse and woodstore. Village shop, post-office and restaurant 5 min drive away.

Close to many tourist attractions and amenities.

Contact: Ray Fuller e-mail rfuller@tcd.ie; phone 0033610093832 Price: 329,000 euro

GERS of 176,5 m², on one level, amid a barnyard surrounded by woods. No vis-à-vis, calm.

Entrance, living room, dining room, kitchen, pantry, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, workshop, laundry room, 90 m² dependence. A haven of peace!

10 minutes from all shops and amenities. Between Aire and Riscle. Gers - 32.

300,000 euros Contact 00351 966 735 157 or email whitejoseph64000@gmail.com

Le Hameau de Sept Laux Our ref: MISeptLaux Price: From 107,000 Euros

La Bergerie, Montalbert (Rhone-Alpes) Our ref: MIBT Price: 325,000 Euros

Llauro (Languedoc-Rousillon) (Pyrenees-Orientale) Our ref: MI927 Price: 556,500 Euros

Vingrau (Languedoc-Rousillon) (Pyrenees-Orientale) Our ref: MI925 Price: 477,000 Euros

01707 376255 | info@mifrance.co.uk www.maisonindividuelle.co.uk 89

A greater selection of French properties than ever before Whether you’re looking for a cottage in Normandy, a mountain chalet or a new-build apartment on the coast, your improved France Property Shop has a property and location to suit all tastes

BETTER FASTER SIMPLER

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91

Go to www.francepropertyshop.com for thousands more properties for sale

Alpes-Maritimes, Provence-Côte d’Azur Contemporary and luminous house, of approximately 132sqm, on 3 levels, located in the pretigious area of Castellaras-le-vieux.

Entirely renovated, it offers 3 or 4 bedrooms, each with a shower room, and many terraces.

795,000 €

Ref: 507456

Var, Provence-Côte d’Azur

Auvergne and Rhône-Alpes

104m house that can be extended in a quiet location near to the village. 3 bedrooms, bathroom and showerrroom. Open diningroom sittingroom with insert fireplace. The kitchen was part of the old stone house which was extended in 2003. There is also a large attic of 45m. Charming tranquil place.

Stone house in perfect condition offering a large dining room, separate living room, 3 bedrooms.

Double glazing and underfloor heating. Courtyard, 2 stone barns with new timber work. Tobacco barn. Quiet and wooded location. Potential for a gîte 6 acres of land.

308,000 €

288,900 €

Ref: 507258

Ref: 501327

Swiss Normandy, Calvados

Orne, Normandy

Orne, Normandy

Spacious family house with a detached Caretaker’s Cottage in the gardens that would be ideal to create a separate gîte and with a B&B potential. This well appointed home has been completely renovated, to a high standard, by the present owners.

Fabulous, historic cottage with a magnificent fireplace - Stone with king and queen’s heads to the sides, dating the cottage to pre revolution age. The property sits in an elevated position above Lonlay Labbaye, having stunning views over the lush countryside and forest.

Hidden from the main streets of the village, nestling in a quiet area, is this quaint stone cottage dating back several hundred years. It is of stone construction and has good sized rooms and a small rear courtyard. The cottage is just a couple of minutes walk from the centre of the village.

94,500 €

84,000 €

370,000 €

Ref: 502410

Ref: 496976

Ref: 496974

Pyrénées-Orientales, Occitanie

Hautes-Pyrénées, Occitanie

Lot, Occitanie

Beautiful well-priced stone properties are always sought after, and with its cosy interior, sunny terrace and stunning views of the surrounding hillside, this 2 bedroom village house is no exception! In good condition, it would make a perfect holiday home.

This attractive farmhouse boasts 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. There is a covered terrace leading to the kitchen and the barn/workshop. The swimming pool (10m x 5m) has roman steps and is set in a terrace with a pool house. The garden has gated entry, decking and large lawns.

With plenty of potential to increase the living space, this very handsome, expertly renovated character detached country house, complete with dovecote, is situated in a quiet hamlet at the edge of a village with shops. It comes with 2 acres of land, lovely views and plenty of space for a pool.

90,000 €

249,500 €

194,298 €

Ref: 501652

Ref: 497690

Ref: 498721

Use the 5/6 digit reference number when searching the site for these properties

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Morbihan, Brittany

Var, Provence-Côte d’Azur

Finistère, Brittany

In the town, stone house of 7 main rooms. To restore, it comprises: lounge/living-room with fireplace (insert), kitchen/dinig room, laundry/ storeroom, toilets, shower-room, porch; cellar.

First- floor: toilets, 4 bedrooms, office, attic.

Garden adjoining of approx 560 square meters.

Besse sur Issole, 35 minutes from the seaside, close to the village with all amenities, lovely Provençal house settled on a plot 750 sqm planted with Mediterranean trees. Quiet, privacy, south exposition, panoramic view on the surrounding countryside.

This 3 bedroom cottage is in excellent condition and ready to move in to, there is no work needed.

It would make a wonderful holiday home due to it’s beautiful location in a small hamlet in the middle of the Crozon peninsula, close to the many sandy beaches and the stunning coastal paths.

61,825 €

369,000 €

176,470 €

Ref: 502165

Ref: 502520

Ref: 502099

Auvergne and Rhône-Alpes

Sarthe, Pays de la Loire

Vendée, Pays de la Loire

Located in a hillside setting, close to the centre of Les Houches, chalet of approximately 160 m2.

In annex: studio of 27m2 (good rental profitability). Superb view of the Mont Blanc massif.

This character property has been beautifully restored in traditional French style, to create a comfortable home with a wealth of unusual features. The house is in a secluded, sheltered garden, a larger separate garden, a few paces down a country lane which has a range of outbuildings.

Large charentaise long house set in a quite hamlet just minutes from amenities in Chaillé, with beautiful gardens, pool and 5 bedroom This traditonal property has lots to offer and has been renovated over the years to provide flexible accommodation.

960,000 €

Ref: 507409

152,600 €

Ref: 502105

296,800 €

Ref: 500778

Sarthe, Pays de la Loire

Mayenne, Pays de la Loire

Haute-Vienne, Nouvelle Aquitaine

This elegant 3 bedroom house is located halfway Carcassonne and Narbonne, on the outskirts of a friendly and lively village with all amenities, surrounded by vineyards. The renovation has been done to a very high standard.

Detached stone and tiled renovated property(188 sqm), lies in the countryside in a peaceful setting, at the end of a lane, in the area of Gorron, with a land area of 4.20 acres (17 000 sqm), no close neighbours.

Situated 15 minutes from the city of Limoges in a very calm isolated position is this absolutely stunningly located property with 1.3 hectares of land and a fully stocked, fully conforming carp fishing lake. The house itself is situated in its own grounds overlooking the lake and forest beyond.

460,000 €

194,250 €

Ref: 473282

Ref: 500178

240,750 €

Ref: 488334

Use the 5/6 digit reference number when searching the site for these properties

MANCHE

GARD PROVENCAL

Holiday from £350 to £450 pw

Beautifully restored 3 bedroom Provençal farmhouse located in a wine village 12 km from Avignon. Swimming pool, view on vineyards, a 5 minute walk to the centre of the village (every day shops and restaurants). Comfortable private home or to be run as a B&B. Easy to fly into, airports nearby (Marseille, Nimes and Montpellier).

From 3 months to 2 years as of 01/2019.

Email: norman.maison@gmail.com Website: www.normanmaison.co.uk Contact number: 01728 688309

€2000 p/m on a yearly base + bills Short stay price on request www.facebook.com/longtermrental. provence.3 Tel: +33 (0)674417794 longtermrentalprovence@gmail.com

SARTHE

DORDOGNE

Nr Carteret / Jersey / Cherbourg Ferry.

Traditional stone house. 3 bedrooms, 2 ensuite, kitchen/diner, lounge, fully furnished, modernised, heating, country near towns & coast. Ideal for walking, cycling, birdwatching, water sports, horse-riding, sailing and kayaking. Close to historic D-Day beaches and sites. Easy drive to Mont St Michel and Bayeux Tapestry.

Renovated watermill circa 17th c. 2 gites, a 1 bed & a 2 bed. Peaceful, yet 5mins from all facilities, 10mx5m pool, hot tub, secure grounds, dog friendly, open 365, wifi, linen, wood burners, BBQs. The “Garden of France”, Royal Chateaux, Fôrét de Bercé, amazing wines and superb walking, fishing (own lake & small, trout stocked river), cycling and much more.

Le Mans (racing) and Tours (airport) just 30mins, Saumur 40mins. Marçon lake with beach, 15 mins.

5 reviews (“Star letter”, Living France, Jan ‘18).

Welcome to our charming guest house near to Sarlat in the Périgord Noir, in the heart of the Dordogne.

We welcome you from March till November in our B&B with our 5 guest rooms. All our rooms are independent and surrounded by a large, partly wooded garden with a large south facing pool.

After a day full of discoveries and visits, we invite you for a gastronomic dinner with local products.

£350-£850 p/w

From 93 euro to 129 euro for a room with 2 person.

From 118 till 177 euro for 3-4 persons.

Email: trevor@lemoulinvolarie.com Website: www.lemoulinvolarie.com www.facebook.com/LaVolarie

Contact number: 0033 5 53 29 14 42 Email: contact@larochedesteil.com Website: www.larochedesteil.com

ORNE

AUDE

Central Normandy on an historic 18th century stud farm. Heaven for horse-lovers: four large, bright, smart gites at either end of a converted coach house, with stabling in between. Stroll in the impressive gardens: formal French, with lily pond and carp lake. Major sights within reach: the Normandy Landing Beaches, Bayeux tapestry. Small pleasures include the weekly village markets ,walking in the Suisse Normande, country drives in the pretty Pays d’Auge by apple orchards, half-timbered manor houses and farm gate sales of cider and cheese. €594-€1,950 p/w Email: anne@gitesgazon.com Website: www.gitesgazon.com Contact number: +33 (0)2 33 12 57 81

LONG TERM RENTAL 3 YEARS

Centrally located in the heart of the Minervois our beautifully restored 18c coaching inn with flower filled courtyard garden and a swimming pool offers flexible accommodation for all your needs and provides the perfect base for exploring this beautiful and up and coming corner of France.

SPECIAL OFFER

Highly recommended ’s on James Martin “French Adventure”

25% off second week for self catering bookings of two weeks or more during 2019.

• B&B €85 for 2; €120-135 for 4 • Weekly self-catered lets from €1,750

Email: mike@levieuxrelais.net Website: www.levieuxrelais.net Contact number: +33 (0)4 68 91 69 29

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“The jolly farmers were singing songs and clinging to each other, trying not to fall out of the tractor as we bid them au revoir and Bon Noël” While the decorations may go up a little later in France there is no shortage of Christmas spirit, says Janine Marsh

G

etting into the Christmas swing of things takes a while in rural France.

Last year, with just over a week to go to the big day, my neighbour Marie-Claude held a soirée before leaving to spend Christmas with her family in the south.

The invitation said 7pm so of course we got there for 7.30pm – we know better than to arrive on time. It’s a peculiarly French thing to invite people to come for a certain o’clock, but to require them to arrive later.

There was no sign of Christmas cheer from the outside of Marie-Claude’s house.

One week before is the unspoken rule for decorating in my village in the Seven Valleys, and we still had 10 days to go!

In the rustic houses scattered along the winding rues in these parts, you generally open the front door and find yourself in the main living space. At Marie-Claude’s, that’s the kitchen, heated by an enormous coal oven. Entering from the crisp night air this apple brandy from Normandy, the in which bright stars sparkled in a velvety region that neighbours mine, can knock dark sky and the ground twinkled as frost your socks off. was already forming, it was sweltering.

I have to tell you, we were all pretty Marie-Claude had the answer to that much sockless after a couple of hours.

Four jolly farmers from the next – a chilled cocktail made with hamlet along arrived after us, calvados. If you’ve never SEE JANINE stamping their feet on the mat had it before, beware – ON FRIDAY as they entered and rubbing AND SATURDAY freezing cold hands together.

I wish you a very Bon They took off their boots, Noël and Bonne Année, gave kisses all round and and I look forward to slurped the potent cocktail seeing you at The France mix that Marie-Claude had Show in January. thrust into their icy fingers – that My favourite bit is the soon warmed them up.

Flavours of France stage with Around midnight people started to go aromatic cookery demonstrations and home. Marie-Claude is quite old, and we talks about life in France by those who’ve all know not to keep her up late, though made the move – and this year the linesome of these gatherings go on until the up promises to be the best ever! sun comes up the next day. We were just on our way out when we heard a tractor

98 Living France December 2018

Above: Nougat from Arras Christmas market – always warmly received at Christmas parties Left: Getting into the Christmas spirit at the local market’s beer stall

revving noisily. “Aha,” said the jolly out-oftown farmers who were rather more jolly than when they arrived, “Sam is here”.

They pulled on their boots and coats, kissed everyone goodbye and trooped out the door. They climbed into the box on the back of the tractor and ‘Sam’ (that’s what they call someone who stays sober for driving friends home here in France) lurched off up the road. The jolly farmers were singing songs and clinging to each other, trying not to fall out of the tractor as we bid them au revoir and Bon Noël.

Not many Christmas lights here, but plenty of festive spirit!

Janine Marsh is author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream (Amazon). She lives in France with her husband and 72 animals. thegoodlifefrance.com

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