Free people: A journey into Europe

FREE PEOPLE A JOURNEY INTO EUROPE

ELLYN GRANT

Fig 1: Free People canvas bag.

Contents

6 | Introduction 12 | Methodology 24 | Brand values: Expression & connection 36 | The bohemian aesthetic 54 | Future trends 64 | The market 74 | How to make sustainable sexy 86 | Stores set to become focal points of the community 94 | Craft as brand handwriting 102 | Consumer 112 | Brands that have expanded into other cultures 120 | Summary & the big idea 124 | The big creative idea Conclusion List of illustrations List of references

Fig 2: Collecting ceramics

Bibliography Appendix

Chapter 1:

Fig 3: Relaxation space at home

| Introduction

F

ounded in Philidelphia in 1984, Free People was created for those who wanted to show a little creativity and freedom through the way that they dressed. The brand embodies bohemian and eclectic style influences and is directed towards the carefree, confident and curious young women who lives free through art, music and travel.

With a distinct aesthetic apparent throughout all of their stores, Free People is able to extend the bohemian brand essence into a lifestyle creating a visually exciting retail space for consumers to enjoy. However recent influxes in technology innovation have changed the role and character of the high street. Once the physical store was at the centre of the consumer journey.Now however it is just one of many available options when it comes to shopping. This doesn’t mean that the in store environment should be overlooked, “the high street still has a place in the shopping journey but its role has shifted, and it now needs to offer a more dynamic experience’’ (Patel, D. 2013). the high street still has a place in the shopping journey but its role has shifted, and it now needs to offer a more dynamic experience’’ (Patel, D. 2013). This social shift is expected to develop in 2014 as it is predicted that stores are set to become focal points of the community. With the threat that 40% of high street shops could close in the next five years (Mintel, 2012: online) it is crucial that stores recognise the importance of becoming places to socialise and relax rather than merely focusing on being places of consumption.

If more brands achieve this it could present a way of silencing the ever gWrowing concern for the continuing decline of the British high street whilst re-connecting communities at the same time.

Fig 4: Girls on film

T

he Free People in store environments however go beyond just pleasing the eye.

They also please the planet. With all fixtures being handmade right down to the crochet coat hangers (See fig 5) the brand’s interest in sustainability and concern for the environment appeal to consumers on a deeper level. In a recent study Globescan and Sustainability revealed that “9 in 10 consumers globally say that ‘ingredient transparent’ is extremely important for companies to address in regards to their products and services” (Buckingham, F: 2013).

Moreover with health and well being rated highly in consumer priorities it is evident across multiple markets and product categories that consumers are expressing a growing interest towards what goes in, on and around their bodies. Connecting with green aware consumers is something Free People further achieves through the medium of craft and DIY. One way in which Free People conveys its brand transparency, as mentioned earlier, is through developing the lifestyle which is evident through the brand blog. With a section based soley on DIY, Free People focus strongly on customisation, individuality and the notions of DIY culture. DIY culture isn’t however anything new or innovative. The trend developed in the 1970’s recession and is now something that in times of economic crisis rises to the surface.

“DIY culture embraces a powerful notion: You can have what you want if you can learn to make it yourself.” (Gentile, T: 2011) and as our access to information and resources grow, so too does our desire to create. With consumers turned off by commercialisation they are instead looking towards personalisation and therefore today “it’s all about personalising the retail experience and focusing on the individual.” (Brandweiner, N: 2013).

Eager to explore and discover new cultures the Free People “design team have always been very inspired by British style and the fashion forward UK consumer” (Hayne, D, 2012) and with a growing UK fan base it seems like the next natural progression for Free People is to explore the idea of a physical UK store. This report will therefore outline the executions needed for the implementation of taking this brand into the UK with the view to creating a marketing strategy which is in unison with the social and cultural issues discussed above.

Fig 5: Instore enviroment moodboard

Chapter 2:

Fig 6: Eco dyeing with flowers

| Methodology

Research questions The research question for this report aimed to answer the key question: Is it the right time to launch the American brand Free People into the UK market, creating an effective brand store as opposed to just selling through the current concessions within brands such as Asos and Urban Outfitters. This was asked due to initial research at the beginning of this project which indicated increased demand for the brand following the recent launch of a UK Free People based e-commerce website last year. This opening question then led to further questions such as what is happening within the retail market today to potentially create an appetite for Free People within the UK? What are the most important promotional messages? How do we get the UK to be as excited and enthusiastic about the brand as they are in the US? Answers to these questions were revealed through both primary and secondary research.

Primary research

Research objectives Research throughout this project intended to discover what at the moment is being guessed and assumed. Brand values, personality and USPs needed to be explored in order to find some research validation to highlight what the most important promotional messages are that could then be integrated into the marketing and communication strategy. (expand)

In order to gain research confirmation for the proposed ideas, primary research was key.

Eager to uncover current perceptions and levels of awareness of the brand both in the UK and the US, I began by conducting a series of short interviews amongst Free People’s target demographic. I contacted a handful students from the University of Ithica USA and also questioned British girls in the format of an online survey sent out via social networking sites ( See appendix‌).

As well as interacting with current and potential consumers, speaking directly to Free People representatives and employees was vital and this was achieved via email and a handwritten letter. In order to challenge and critically analyse the bohemian aesthetic ,ethnographic research was executed as well as street style photography identifying the trend.

Fig 7 |

Secondary research Secondary research was an essential aspect of this project and therefore a wide range of media formats were utilised. One of the main sources that influenced and provided inspiration for this project was the use of audio visual resources.

Through sites such as Vimeo and YouTube I was able to explore the brand videos and gain a wider understanding of the Free People lifestyle.

Reports were also a great aid in terms of research.

Mintel and sites such as WGSN provided information for an in-depth study of the current retail market and future trends to be aware of. Insights into consumption, the way we consume, needs and trends were also covered within research found on Mintel, WGSN and a selection of further websites.

Books were also utilised during the research stage, covering topics ranging from ways to market soley to women, exploring the ‘big idea’, to graphic inspiration.

Expert interviews:

Who: Edward Mullen.

Job role: Designer of digital experience in collaboration with Free People.

Why: Knowledge of the brand and approaches to marketing due to the fact that Edward has worked closely with Free People since 2006 helping to design the e-commerce experience.

Method: Email interview Transcription: Appendix page..

Date: Who: Allison Ditty Job role: Web manager at Free People head office Philadelphia.

Why: Working in Free People’s head office Allison was approached due to her knowledge and understanding of the brand.

Method: Email response to a handwritten card.

Transcription: Appendix page...

Date: Fig 8 |

Analysis of research methods:

Interviews with Free People staff were conducted to allow for a more detailed explanation of the topics covered within this report. E mails were sent to 5 people outlining the project details and asking to discuss it with them; it wasn’t expected that everyone would be willing to help or reply. Those receiving emails were chosen based on their knowledge regarding retail, Free People as a brand as well as initial research Out of the 5 people contacted, only 1 replied offering to help. Without having any personal connections with the respondents it was therefore difficult to find ways to communicate.

The respondee was Edward Mullen, a designer who works directly with Free People helping to improve digital experiences. This interview proved beneficial in terms of insight

into the marketing and communication strategy aspect of my project. However after trying, and failing, via emails to get a response from Free People head office in Philadelphia I decided to hand write a letter instead. Hoping to stand out and make an impression, I hand made a card with the title ‘little help?’, inside outlined my project aims, a number of questions and my email address to respond to (see Figures 9-11). A week later I got a reply proving that speaking to the brand in an innovative way on a personal level was a success.

One of the disadvantages of this method however was that I wasn’t able to ask too many questions in the card due to lack of space and the fact that a reply was uncertain. This did however lead me to get a contact email address for further communication. Despite being very happy with the response, upon reflection however it would have been better had I been able to contact more people from the brand in order to gain a larger body of research.

Both participants were interviewed via email. This was down to personal preference. The respondents were given the options of email or phone call regarding how they would like to be interviewed. With all participants living or working in the USA, meeting face to face wasn’t a feasible option and therefore all chose to respond via email. Prior to each interview a list of slightly different questions were drafted and written objectively to encourage the respondent to answer honestly. One of the disadvantages however to an email interview is that the questions are set in stone beforehand and further questions could therefore not be asked depending on the direction that the conversation took. Consequently this eliminated the possibilities for new, advancing topics of conversation to arise. On the other hand however, an advantage of interviewing via E mails is that the participants had time to think about and draft their answers before replying therefore allowing more consideration and thought to go into their responses. By interviewing online it also allowed people to choose the location of the interview beforehand therefore suggesting that they were in surroundings where they felt comfortable and relaxed providing a good basis for answering the questions honestly and comprehensively.

The responses from the participants helped to direct and generate ideas in order to progress with this project.

Fig 9: Handmade card

Fig 10: Project brief

Fig 11: Questions

Method: Online questionnaire & Email Questionnaire. Date: March 25th 2013. (See Appendix ...)

Analysis of research method: An online questionnaire was piloted via social media sites in order to research general opinions, perceptions and statistics to aid future advances within this project. The survey consisted of four quick, simple, multiple choice questions.

Although surveys are an effective way of allowing people to contribute anonymous answers and therefore be completely honest, it is however challenging to collect a credible quantity of responses. Only 17 people responded to the online questionnaire which doesn’t in itself represent a large enough segment of the market to be a viable sample.

An email questionnaire was also sent out to 15 people, all of whom responded, this time asking open-ended response style questions. The aim of this approach was to gain a better depth of understanding regarding brand awareness within the UK. The answers collected provided honest, useful insights to consider within the next stages of the project.

Method: Email interviews with students at Ithica University USA. Date: March 27th 2013.

(See Appendix....)

Analysis of research method: Eager to find out if opinions of Free People were the same amongst both US and UK consumers American girls within the brands target demographic were contacted through Ithica university USA. With a view to identifying current competitors, existing perceptions and levels of understanding regarding the brand’s lifestyle I devised a series of questions to see how US consumers are responding to and communicating with Free People currently.

The University of Ithica was chosen due to the fact that I had a contact there studying for a degree in marketing and communications. The 10 question survey was then passed on to 10 other students who all responded again via email. Again the main advantage of this approach was that the participants could answer the questions in their own time and consider their responses without being rushed. However upon reflection maybe it may have been more effective to have carried out these interviews in different formats as opposed to just email.For example conducting half by telephone could have provided extended answers and a more in depth insight. However the responses collected from this method of research were invaluable providing me with an insight into the American market that would have been challenging to achieve had I not utilised my contacts.

Consent forms and information sheets regarding the project were again sent out to each respondent to ensure their clarity on the task.

Method: Street style. Date: 27th April 2013. Time: 11am-2pm (See appendix..)

Analysis of research method: Conducting street style photography was an important aspect of this project enabling me to critically analyse the bohemian aesthetic and assessing the current market.

This particular research method was carried out in order to discover current takes and interpretations of the bohemian trend. It was hoped that this research method would present the opportunity for insight into peoples personal style and to provide the opportunity to discuss directly their outfit choices.

The street style exercise took place in Nottingham city centre and a total of 10 people were photographed.

All participants signed model release forms and consent forms ensuring that their pictures could be used to inform this project. This exercise proved effective in the sense that it presented primary research of a visual nature which suggested that the bohemian aesthetic and trend is still current.

Method: Street interviews asking what does ‘Free’ mean to you? Date: 25th April 2013. Time: 12pm-2pm.

(See Appendix...)

Analysis of research method: In order to discover peoples’ current perceptions regarding the brand name and synergy, a series of interviews amongst Free Peoples target consumers within the ABC1demographic of 20-30 year old females were conducted in order to uncover what connotation the word “Free” means to people.

Taking place on the streets of Nottingham city centre,these interviews used a snowball sampling technique.

Conducted at lunch time on a Friday the intention was to speak to young professionals on their lunch breaks. I positioned myself in a central location in Market Square in order to approach people easily. Of the ten people I spoke to, all consented to a short interview comprised of questions I had devised beforehand. In order not to take up too much of the respondents’ time, I chose to keep the interviews relatively short, recorded them and later transcribed them. As participants were randomly selected with no advance warning that they were to be approached, they didn’t have time to think about their responses prior to the interview. Putting them on the spot meant that some may have been nervous and reserved about sharing information, particularly as they were aware that their answers were being recorded. Consent forms were however filled out in order to demonstrate the participants’ willingness to engage in the process and for their permission to be used within the future stages of my report.

Chapter 3:

Fig 12: Wanderlust: Travel essentials

| Brand values: Expression & connection

Brand values: Expression & connection.

S

ince it was founded 30 years ago, Free People has since put down roots not only across 75 US stores but also globally with over 1,500 concessions and speciality boutiques. Currently operating in the UK through concessions such as Asos and Urban Outfitters, Free People also launched a UK e-commerce site earlier this year. Web manager at Free People, Allison Ditty, states how “ we are fortunate to have distinctive items both in our wholesale line and on our website. This gives our customer reason to visit us in many channels.” (Ditty, A: 2013), thereby offering exclusives as a tactic to drive traffic. The Free People UK website, according to managing director David Hayne, was created as a result of “great demand for the brand already through the US site and our British fans have been requesting through social sites and our BLDG5 blog that we bring the brand to the UK so we were eager to satisfy them with a faster easier and more hassle free shopping experience.”

(Hayne, D, 2012). E-commerce is a powerful marketing tool and one that “has transformed what was once a game anchored in local markets- with retailers choosing to expand internationally when they reached saturation nationally-into one where they can pursue internationalisation at the same time as domestic expansion.”( Balchandani, A: 2013). E-commerce has allowed Free People to put down roots in the UK market but it is also a powerful tool when it comes to communicating with consumers and building brand awareness something that the brand need to continue to work on. Especially because only 35% of those surveyed had heard of the brand. ( REFERENCE AND MAKE UP IN APPENDIX) Forming genuine connections and relationships with consumers is however something that Free People are currently very aware of and work hard to achieve. At a recent UK retail week conference led by Andrew Jobling, he explained the importance of communication due to the fact that today “consumers are looking for deeper relationships with retailers but in exchange for that have greater expectations which need to be met” (Joblinng, A, 2013: Online). Focusing on individuality and expression, one way in which Free People are set to achieve this is through the way that they communicate with consumers. Speaking to customers in line with the brands friendly tone of voice, as opposed to being just another corporate voice trying to tell us something allows the brand to engage and connect with consumers on an emotive, personal level. “As consumer behaviours change, businesses have an opportunity to maximise the potential of new technologies to create meaningful connections with their customers” ( Mast, S, 2012: Online). One way in which Free People are achieving this is through the creation of a brand lifestyle. Providing consumers with what they are demanding, Free People integrates it’s brand essence across all social networking platforms. Creating and spreading an authentic brand story from the the brand blog, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook right down to the Youtube channel, presents consumers with the opportunity to communicate and be connected with the brand in whichever way they desire.

Fig 13: Brand personality moodboard.

Fig 14: Bohemian bliss.

"The brand is a lot more than clothes. It is more of a lifestyle that speaks to a certain type of girl. Anyone can buy the clothes at a department store, but the individual stores speak to a specific customer from the employees to the decore. You don't however have to own the clothes to be part of Free People. Beyond the clothes, the Free People blog talks about music, DIY projects, films and more subjects. Overall the brand is its own culture and that is what I love about it the most".

(Kelly S, 2013: Online).

WHAT MAKES FREE PEOPLE SPECIAL?

Fig 15: Free People Aaker model

Fig 16: Free People garments

The Free People pet project is a rang of eco-friendly pet accessories in collaboration with Philadelphia’s largest animal shelter with 100% proceeds from certain items, and a percentage of others going towards the cause. All the animals featured in the look book are rescued or adopted animals and the range mixes practical chic with eco friendliness.

Fig 17: Areas of brand innovation moodboard.

Bike and skate board accessories: A range of artisan accessories to make bikes stylish including Hand tooled painted bike seats, crochet skirt guards, and wine bottle holders. With a look book based around the idea of girls and their bikes and an organic, DIY video for the blog showing how to decorate your bike Free People have also collaborated with bike brand Schwinn to provide competition opportunities and chances to win the featured bikes.

Health and fitness is a large part of the free people lifestyle. Revolving around the idea, and trend, of health well being Free People have developed food recipes and products to reflect this. Yoga is a current big trend and Free People have noticed this and as a result created a range of yoga accessories from clothes down to matts as well as also recently bringing out a line of hula hoops.

The Free People style me gallery is an innovative online space in which consumers are encouraged to upload style pictures, curate collections, follow stylists and heart their favourite things on the website.

Based around the idea of creating a style ‘community’ the gallery allows consumers to share their own images and showcase their personal style, sharing and communicating with the brand and other fans.

The heart it concept is an innovative tool that allows consumers to bookmark their favourite items without being pressured to buy whilst also being beneficial for Free People as it automatically creates a log of popular products amongst consumers.

Fig 18: Free People Style me gallery moodboard

One of the major aspects of the Free People online lifestyle is the BLG25 blog. Covering topics such as music, food, fashion, and photography one of the main features is the DIY section. Focused around the idea of up-cycling everyday items available in and around the home, Free People come up with simple yet effective ways to revitalise them through craft. Step by step guides allow consumers to get involved and to make their own versions as well as being encouraged to share comments and images of their creations online.

Fig 19: Free People DIY & Artisan moodboard

With really strong music links and a focus on playlists and covering a wide range of US festivals such as Coachella, Free People translates its musical influences across all channels of the brand. The blog creates DIY projects such as festival flag making, the YouTube site shows 60 second festival style videos and the website shows a festival shop now range of looks whilst the Instagram collects all the images that have been hash tagged from the festivals themselves. Therefore using music as a vechicle in which to Integrate all of their social networking channels around one theme and offering exclusives on each encouraging fans to follow them on numerous platforms and engage with the brand as opposed to just one.

Fig 20: Free People music links

Chapter 4:

Fig 21:Day dream believer

| The bohemian aesthetic

Bohemian

native or inhabitant of Bohemia.

Free People is based on, and inspired, by everything

bohemian and eclectic and

therefore it is vital that this aesthetic is explored in detail. In order to expand into the UK there must be an identified market. Therefore how successful is

this aesthetic from a brand point of view?

Who is doing it well?

What aspects of the market are being covered? These are all questions needing to be addressed.

a socially unconventional person, especially one who is involved in the arts.

D

eriving

from

gypsy

What does Bohemian mean to you?

and

hippy culture bohemian style was born out of an expression against authority. Distinct clothing was, and still is, an expression of individuality against the mainstream. On the other hand some may suggest that today bohemian style is becoming more of a state of mind as opposed to a look thus reflecting the carefree, adventurous and independent individual that Free People is targeting. It could however

Bohemian as aesthetic has been slightly

be argued that

an ‘over done’ which is something that Free People need to be cautious of.

Marie Greene, contributing editor on

“bohemian boho, reached the

Ehow believes that

Chic, or height of it’s popularity in 2004 to 2005 when it was associated with actresses like Sienna Miller and Mischa Barton” (Greene, M, 2010) allowing many celebrities at the time to build their own brands on the back of the bohemian aesthetic, Nicole Richie, Kate Moss for Topshop, and Harlow created by Mary Kate and Ashley to name a few.

Greenes quote maybe be correct but the fact cannot be ignored that every year, especially around festival season, floppy hats, floaty maxi dresses, and floral prints sneak back into fashion.

While they might not resemble the

past boho aesthetic in full,

hippie

spirit still shines through regardless.

Subtly re-imagining the past has ensured that “bohemian sentiments of the 60s and 70s get a modern and ultra-luxurious reshaping for spring 2013. Subtly infusing garments with a hippie spirit, it’s an evolution we can all embrace come the warmer weather.” (Fashionising, 2013: Online),

bohemian style influences are here to stay. proving that

From street style, interior, photography and editorial content, to high street & designer fashion, bohemian and eclectic style influences lend themselves to many different aspects of the market.

The following mood boards highlight the visual inspiration that benchmark Free People as a brand and how the bohemian aesthetic is currently being portrayed in British culture today.

Fig 22: What does Bohemian mean to you?

HIGHSTREET

FRENCH CONNECTION

Every year we see high street brands taking inspiration from bohemian influences, the following moodboards highlight what is currently on offer and how a handful of brands have interpreted the aesthetic.

Fig 25: French Connection moodboard

H&M

Fig 24: H&M moodboard

PULL & BEAR Fig 23: Pull & Bear moodboard

ZARA

Fig 26: Zara moodboard

TOPSHOP

Fig 28: Topshop moodboard

RIVER ISLAND Fig 27: River Island moodboard

INTERIORS

With trend focuses within interiors currently steering away from minimalistic design and instead focusing on bohemian and eclectic influences they lend themselves also to a variety of different concepts such as ethnic, modern and art deco. Many trend books and blogs are showcasing bohemian style interior spaces which are visualised over the next few pages.

Fig 29: Bazaar style moodboard 1

Fig 30: Bedroom

Fig 31: Bazaar styles moodboard 2

Fig 32: Lounge

STREET STYLE

In order to see first hand how everyday people are interpreting the bohemian aesthetic a street style exercise was carried out highlighting how it translates into personal style.

Fig 33: Street Style Photography

EDITORIAL

The bohemian aesthetic, as a theme, influences a lot of photography and editorial content. The following moodboard highlight some of the most recent spreads.

Fig 34: Bohemian editioral moodboard Fig 35: Vogue Japan a bohemian calling

Chapter 5:

Fig 36: Washed out

| Future trends

Spring/Summer 14.

Trend forecasting is a major aspect for all brands

to consider however in recent years it has “become somewhat of a trend in itself as we have seen the proliferation of so-called ‘cool hunters’ and ‘trend hunters’ emerging onto the scene.”(Sheppard, S,2013). Most companies tent to collaborate with international trend agencies however the sheer amount of information overload has lead to some opting to set up their own internal trend forecasting teams. The following three Micro trends have therefore been devised in order to inspire and inform Free People’s future vision when expanding into the UK market.

Fig 37: The meaning of white

BLOOM REVIVAL INFLUENCES| GRID | PHOTOGRAPHIC FLORALS | TRANSPARENCY | ANGULAR | REPEAT PATTERN | SEQUENCES | STRUCTURED | CRISP | Perfect to be translated into the Free People dress shop and skirts.

Fig 38 :Bloom revival moodboard

FOLK MENAGE INFLUENCES| Beading | Stich | Tribe | Community | |Hand made |Rag doll | community | Detailed | Global | | Asia | Traditional | Perfect

to

be translated into Free accessories & footwear.

People

Fig 39: Folk menage moodboard

GALACTIC GRUNGE INFLUENCES | Geometric shapes | Gaming | Cyber | Street art | Graffiti | Graphics | Repeat patterns | Animalistic | Hypnotic | Trance | Out of this world | Noise | Perfect to be translated into Free People casual tees and jewellery.

Fig 40: Galactic grunge moodboard

Chapter 6:

Fig 41: Office space

| The market

The Market.

D

espite tough economic circumstances as a result of the ongoing recession in the UK, clothes still remain more of a necessity as opposed to a want and for that reason the women’s retail sector continues to thrive. “Womenswear dominates the clothing industry and accounts for two thirds of the value of the adult outerwear market, reflecting women’s affinity for fashion and enjoyment in the clothes shopping experience.’ (Mintel, 2012: Online). Younger women make up most of that statistic as they are the most avid followers of trends and regard fashion to be a key weapon in regards to expressing their personality, attracting attention and fitting in with peers. In terms of consumer behaviour we have seen disposable incomes fall under constant pressure leaving almost half of women with no choice but to buy clothes in sales, but recent shifts however have seen the proportion of women who are shopping more frugally decline in the last 12 months (Mintel. 2012: Online) proving that climates are changing rapidly.

One explanation for this shift could be as a result of a zeitgeist picked up by the cover of New Yorker magazine back in 2010.

(See Fig 16) The cover featured a young man hanging up his PHD certificate in a bedroom reminiscent of his childhood, a cardboard box at his feet hinting that he plans to move back home instead of moving forward towards independence.

In the back ground stand his parents, with facial expressions oozing worry, and almost fear regarding the situation.

Sociologists have responded and made light of this image explaining how we are in the thick of what they have titled “the changing timetable for adulthood” (Marantz, H, 2010: Online). This quote represents the fact that the milestones in life that we prepare for whilst growing up such as buying our first house, getting married and starting a family are occurring at a slower pace. This could be because of a lack of disposable income due to a shortage of jobs and rising unemployment levels, and less of an urge to rush into marriage because of the general acceptance towards premarital sex. This however is not by any means a negative thing, it is merely representative of changing times and attitudes. In fact in terms of the womens retail market in particular this idea of delayed adulthood is having a very positive effect on the economy due to the fact that “young women are delaying making big financial commitments, cushioning them from the worst effects of the recession and allowing them to splash out on fashion,” (Mintel, 2012: online). Delaying the transition to adulthood therefore means that people have more disposable incomes and have greater spending potential than younger consumers.

Women falling with Free Peoples target of ABC1 consumers aged between 2030 are more likely to invest in fewer well produced garments as they would “rather spend money on high quality products that will last longer” (Kelly, S, 2013) as opposed to bulk buying cheaper, shorter lasting items of clothing. This doesn’t mean to say however that ‘budget’ retailers within the UK are suffering.In fact “the value of budget stores such as Primark, Tesco, Matalan, Asda and TK Maxx has increased by 45% over the past 5 years to more than £6 billion” ( Maris, J, 2008.

2-), as there is still a larger percentage of consumers who say they “wish I had the will power to save up for something really nice, but I just don’t” (Link, K, 2013).

However with an increasing concern towards the environment and a desire for items of higher quality growing at a fast rate, consumers are becoming more interested in how and where garments are being made.

Fig 42: The Boomerang generation

Monsoon & Accessorize

COMPETITORS When planning an expansion into the UK market it is vital that all possible competitors are identified before hand. The following mood boards and perceptual map will identify brands for Free People to look out for.

Arguabley Free Peoples’ main competitor on the UK high street Monsoon & Accessoize have an established USP due to their inspirational, globally sourced, good quality collection of garments and accessories.

Targeting the demographic of ABC1 consumers ages 18-35 the brand has a strong bohemian brand essence which would rival that of Free People.

Fig 43: Monsoon & Accessorize moodboard

Pull & Bear

Despite being sister brands Urban Outfitters and Free People share the same brand values and eclectic essence. Both targeting a care-free, confident consumer, Free Peoples’ demographic is however slightly older distinguishing a gap between the two. It is important that the difference between the brands however remains apparent in order for both to succeed within the same market and therefore this is something that will need to be taken into consideration.

Pull & Bear are an interesting competitor for Free People. Despite having lower price points the brand is one to watch due to their recent expansion into the UK market. With a bohemian essence evident within their designs and a similar mission statement to Free People aimed at “young people who have a casual dress sense, who shun stereotypes and who want to feel good in what they are wearing.�

Fig 44: Pull & Bear moodboard

Urban Outfitters

Fig 45: Urban Outfitters moodboard

PERCEPTUAL MAP BOHEMIAN INFLUENCED

Accessorize Monsoon

Bohoo.com

Free People Anthropologie

Pull & Bear Ted Baker

Zara

French Connection

LOW END

HIGH END

Urban outfitters H&M

Asos Topshop River Island

Warehouse Oasis

Primark MAINSTREAM INFLUENCES

The perceptual map is designed to show where Free People would position themselves within the current UK market. With a heavily saturated market within womens wear on the British high street Free People need to use a perceptual map in order to highlight any possible USPs and niche markets for them to expand into.

From the map it is evident that Free Peoples main identified competitors would be Monsoon and Anthropologie. Both are however positioned to a slightly older demographic than Free People and therefore for that reason it there does appear to be a gap in the market for a bohemian brand in the higher price bracket targeting the demographic of 25-34 year old young professional women.

Chapter 7:

| How to make sustainable sexy Fig 47: Patchwork denim

ECO FASHION...

THE GOOD

V

THE BAD Fig 48: Eco fashion: Good Vs bad

GREEN GREEN ISIS THE THE

BLACK BLACK NEW NEW Fig 49:Snakeskin mimic

A

As highlighted, consumers are beginning to express s highlighted, consumers are and beginning their interest and desire for more sustainable eco to express their interest and forhave more friendly products.

Traditionally thesedesire products and eco easy friendly products. notsustainable made themselves to love.

ManyTraditionally people these have not madeisn’t themselves easy hold the products opinion that “sustainable sexy, which love.problem Many if you people hold the opinion that is to a huge are linking it to the fashion “sustainable isn’tA,sexy, which a huge industry” (Jobling, 2013).

This is isn’t helpedproblem by the if you are linking to the fashion (Jobling, fact that in the pastit“everybody whoindustry” was in eco fashionA, 2013).

This isn’t helped by(Shah, the fact in the past looked like a bag of potatoes” D, that 2007.)

PAGE “everybody was in eco fashion looked like a NUMBER) andwho unfortunately many perceptions of eco bag ofare potatoes” (Shah, D, 2007.)

PAGE NUMBER) fashion still based on these negative associations. and unfortunately many perceptions of eco fashion are still based on these negative associations.

At a recent sustainable brands conference Lance Hosey explained how “there’s still a fundamental disconnect between form and function in green product design. Simply put, the products that are more sustainable tend to telegraph not sexy” (Hosey, L, 2012). This quote supports the fact that sustainable and sexy are two words you don’t often see together. Sustainability is a serious world regarding saving the planet and sexy is one that implies pleasure. It comes as no surprise therefore that brands are finding it challenging to join the two.

Sustainability as a goal and as a practice is however not only attainable but with it also comes endless possibilities for creative expansion if done correctly.

Once brands find ways to communicate green ideals without resorting to cliches such as wind farms and ice caps and actually start to engage with a wider audience as opposed to just hard core green consumers, then they have every opportunity to challenge and change current perceptions about sustainability not being sexy or cool. If sustainability is injected within a brand essence as a primary objective then it presents the brand with the opportunity to tell a strong, genuine story of positive impact - one that consumers can relate to, empathise and engage with.

When it comes to communicating with consumers there are 2 identified main groups that I feel need to be addressed: The Hand Holders & The Hanger on-ers. (See fig )