Garment Engineering

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PLASTIC FRAGMENTATION 275,000

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down into such tiny segments, from a one litre bottle mile of beach in the world.

F D

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Using a womens Jacket block, I developed the shape of the jacket front by hand.

Looking into shawl collars, I knew I needed to create a front that included a collar and rever all in one. This involved extending the neck and shoulder seams to get a corner. My final design includes many panels in the back and sides, I was able to manipulate the dart through these side panels and get rid of the ‘usual’ tailored dart.

Pre Positioning

After making these changes by hand, I digitised my pattern pieces into the lectra system.

Using Modaris, I altered my front pieces further to create an overlapping front.

3D Fit one - no sleeves

Initial Pattern Pieces

3D Fit one - no sleeves

To create shaping in the back and to manipulate the darts, I created side panels that looked similar to the front.

These panels create the shape and are also interesting design features as it splits up the shape of the back

ith ack w

et B Jack s l pane

3D Fit one - no sleeves

side

3D Fit two - no sleeves

Using modaris tools, I used the straight line tool to draw lines across the back. After drawing the required deign on the back, I used the cut function to create 9 back panels which can be sewn together.

Front open

3D Fit two - no sleeves

To create a 3D version of the jacket, I created a variant and inputted all the data and pattern pieces required.

Through this variant I was able to create pieces to stitch in the desk of stitches. Stitching these pieces took time due to the number of them and the order in which they needed to be put together.

Before stitching, there were a couple of steps that needed to be done so that the 3D outcome would be successful.

The lines across the front of the jacket pattern allow the rever to fold back on itself when in 3D. To get this to happen they had to be ‘set as 3D’ and set as right side, right side fold.

3D

Fit

three

with

sleeves

For the jacket to have a neat hem, it needed a tun up of 4cm or more. Using the ‘paralIel tool’ I allowed for a 5cm turn up which gives cleaner finished and a more strengthened hem.

Usually when the hem is turned up it needs to be a reflection of the line so that when its turned back its neat and does not have excess fabric. I did this for the front jacket yet later realised that this was wrong as I would have an extra panel on the front and the side seam would be straight. I changed this through using the ‘align 2 points ‘ function to give me a straight turn up.

At the same time as creating the turn up, I needed to create a facing.

This facing would include the collar, 1/3 of the shoulder and the wrap.

This neatens the collar and lets the front of the jacket sit flush.

This sleeve was came originally from a two piece sleeve from the womens jacket block. I created a one piece sleeve so that it would give a clean finish yet also so it would be easier to create the texture that my design required.

0.5cm

To create the cut sections I drew on the cut lines, cut into them and opened up the sections each by 3cm.

After this, I drew around the new shape and folded where the cut lines met to create a seam allowance.

1cm 0.5cm

0.5cm

1.5cm

1cm

2cm

1.5cm

By increasing the length on the left side, I had to increase the width on the right. This meant that when sewing these sections, there would be no holes in the sleeve.

1.5cm

2cm

To create an interesting texture, I added 0.5cm to the bottom of the first section on the left side of the sleeve and increased by 0.5cm until reaching 2cm and then decreased until reaching the sleeve head.

1.5cm

1cm

1cm

0.5cm

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Once I had sewn the sleeves on the toile jacket, I decided that the cuts would look more interesting if they were going towards the front of the sleeve.

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I made some minor adaptations to the sleeve pattern, which was fairly easy as it is originally a one piece sleeve

The wrap of the jacket was originally a squared shape, yet once the toile jacket was made, it seemed to be unfitting to the rest of the design. To adjust the shape, I married both fronts of the jacket and used the reshape tool to make a slanted wrap front. The jacket wrap will sit flush with the side panel on the right side and would be fastened with hidden magnetic snap fastenings.

Fit

3D Fit collar

3D

five

five

and

changes

changes to and front

sleeves

with fit

with

to

p of

Clo se u

front

ttatc h

el a

pan

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six Fit 3D Front

Back

Side

Side

To create one of the panels, I used the join function which when put together it made a new shape for one of the new back panels

After toile review, I changed my back panels so that I did not have a straight line running down the centre back of the jacket. To do this, I adjusted the lines along the back so that the centre square panel had a straighter lower edge and the large middle panel on the right and left merge to become one. I also made a change to the lowest panel so it will have a slanted seam.

To complete the look of the jacket, there needs to be a lining. This not only needed to be functional, but I wanted it to be a stand out design feature.

All the prints were created by using images of plastic bottles that I had cut to create interesting shapes. These bottles were clean but had water droplets on them which gave them an extra 3D style.

I created 8 prints to be sublimation printed on Satin Plaza fabric.

This fabric is a smooth and shiny fabric with a luxurious feel.

Print 1

Print 2

Print 3

Print 4

The final print design that I selected for the lining is print 5, this was the most aesthetically pleasing. It is a print which is not a usual repeat, it is designed to be fairly random.

Print 5

Print 6

Print 7

Print 8

Using the 3D simulation, I was able to add the fabric and lining to the jacket. This isn’t the exact design as the linign fabric does not show on the rever yet it could be a design feature on another design.

I was able to add a satin shine effect to the lining which made the simulation look even more realistic.

I used the fabric tools to change the look of the whole jacket.

My final print design was what I wanted to use on the outer of the jacket to see how it looked.

This is not the final look of the jacket, yet became an interesting design.

Final

desk

of

stitches

seven Fit 3D Front

Side

Side

Back

FINAL

JACKET

TECHNICAL

FLAT

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