Off Season On the Cape

Upper Cape BY ELIZABETH SHAW

See & Do

When most people think of the Cape, they think of sunny, 80-degree days on the beach, dining al fresco in the evening, and sitting in bridge traffic. But those in the know understand that the real magic of the Cape happens in the off-season.

There’s nothing like fall in New England, so head outside because there’s so much to see and do. In Falmouth, visit the Knob for easy hiking trails and stunning views. The Cape Cod Canal Bikeway spans the length between the two bridges and is perfect for any outdoor activity, whether you’re looking to take a walk or run, a bike ride, or even do a little fishing! Too cold to be outside? No problem. Bring the kids to the Cape Cod Children’s Museum in Mashpee for some hands-on learning. And if history is more your speed, make sure to visit the Mashpee Wampanoag Tribe Museum.

Mashpee Commons The Knob

Whether you stick to Route 6A or Route 28, there’s plenty of shopping to be done on either side. Main Street (Route 28) in Falmouth has something for everyone, from unique gift emporiums like Twigs of Falmouth to clothing stores like The Black Dog and Maxwell & Co. Mashpee Commons is home to over 50 retailers, including the only L.L. Bean store on the Cape. Take a drive down scenic Route 6A and experience Sandwich in the off-season. Titcomb’s Bookshop is a favorite among locals and visitors thanks to its cozy atmosphere and incredible selection of books, stationery, and local gifts. If antiquing is more your style, check out Sandwich Antiques Center, which is one of the largest antiques venues in the area.

THE KNOB, WOODS HOLE saltpondsanctuaries.org/the-knob THE CAPE COD CANAL BIKEWAY 33 Canal Service Road, Bourne savebuzzardsbay.org/places-to-go/cape-codcanal-bikeway CAPE COD CHILDREN’S MUSEUM 577 Great Neck Road S, Mashpee, capecodchildrensmuseum.org MASHPEE WAMPANOAG TRIBE MUSEUM 414 Main St., Mashpee, mashpeewampanoagtribe-nsn.gov/museum TWIGS OF FALMOUTH 178 Main St., Falmouth, twigsfalmouth.com THE BLACK DOG 465 Grand Avenue, Falmouth, theblackdog.com MAXWELL & CO 200 Main St., Falmouth, maxwellandco.com MASHPEE COMMONS 22 Steeple St., Mashpee, mashpeecommons.com L.L. BEAN 7 Market St., Mashpee, llbean.com TITCOMB’S BOOKSHOP 432 Route 6A, East Sandwich, titcombsbookshop.com SANDWICH ANTIQUES CENTER 131 Route 6A, Sandwich, sandwichantiquescenter.com

Eat

Before you start your day of exploring, fuel up at Café Chew in Sandwich. With a focus on organic, natural, and whole foods, Café Chew serves hearty, healthy breakfasts and lunches year-round. “In Sandwich, it’s a little different. We have the fewest number of second homeowners on Cape Cod and we don’t see the exodus after Labor Day,” says Café Chew owner Bob King. “It’s a great year-round community.”

Cape Cod Coffee has additional caffeinated options for you as well as breakfast and lunch at its Mashpee Commons location. The company’s roasting facility, which is also in Mashpee on Route 130, features a café for all your coffee and baked goods needs, but also a kitchen that cooks delicious lunches and dinners, and a bar with a rotating tap of local brews.

When it’s time to wind down for the evening, visit Naukabout Taproom and Beer Garden in Mashpee for classic IPAs and more adventurous brews like milkshake IPAs and fruity Hefeweizens. Ready for dinner? Bobby Byrne’s Pub, a Cape favorite since it opened in 1973, has locations in Mashpee and Sandwich, where you can relax and enjoy a hearty lunch or dinner. If you are looking for carefully crafted tacos and burritos to be paired with gourmet cocktails, stop by Añejo Falmouth, which offers guests an upscale approach to Mexican cuisine. Bleu in Mashpee Commons is an upscale option where you can be transported to France for a meal.

Añejo Falmouth

Isaiah Jones Homestead Bed & Breakfast

Stay

When booking your stay, whether you prefer an inn, a hotel, an Airbnb or anything in between, you’ll feel at home on the Upper Cape. The Woods Hole Inn offers vintage rooms with modern updates, conveniently located right by the Martha’s Vineyard ferry. Or rest your head in an 1848 Victorian home at the Isaiah Jones Homestead Bed & Breakfast in Sandwich. “We’ve always been open year-round, and we love to provide an opportunity for people to experience the Cape when there aren’t the crowds,” says the bed and breakfast owner Katherine Sanderson. The Falmouth Tides Motel offers waterfront views at affordable costs and is just minutes away from bustling Falmouth Center.

CAFÉ CHEW 4 Merchants Road, Sandwich, cafechew.com CAPE COD COFFEE 10 Evergreen Circle (Route 130), Mashpee, capecodcoffee.com NAUKABOUT BREWING COMPANY 13 Lake Avenue, Mashpee, naukabout.com BOBBY BYRNE’S PUB 6 Central Sq., Mashpee, bobbybyrnes.com AÑEJO FALMOUTH 188 Main St., Falmouth, anejo.cc BLEU 10 Market St., Mashpee, bleurestaurant.com WOODS HOLE INN 28 Water St., Woods Hole woodsholeinn.com ISAIAH JONES HOMESTEAD BED & BREAKFAST 165 Main St., Sandwich, isaiahjones.com FALMOUTH TIDES MOTEL 267 Clinton Ave., Falmouth, tidesmotelcapecod.com

Mid Cape

BY PATRICK FLANARY

Cape Cod Museum of Art

BARNSTABLE COMEDY CLUB 3171 Main St., Barnstable 508-362-6333, barnstablecomedyclub.org CAPE COD MUSEUM OF ART 60 Hope Lane, Dennis 508-385-4477, ccmoa.org LONG PASTURE WILDLIFE SANCTUARY 345 Bone Hill Road, Cummaquid Cape Cod Rail Trail

ISAIAH THOMAS BOOKS 4632 Falmouth Road, Cotuit 508-428-2752; isaiahthomasbooks.com PARNASSUS 220 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port 508-362-6420; parnassusbooks.com SPANKY’S CLAM SHACK 138 Ocean St., Hyannis 508-771-2770, spankysclamshack.com

See & Do

Barnstable Comedy Club is the Cape’s longestrunning theater, now in its 100th season, with plays running from November to May. For those who are looking for hands-on activities, pottery and painting classes are offered year-round at the Cape Cod Museum of Art in Dennis. “The winters are not as quiet as they used to be,” says Benton Jones, art director at the museum. “There’s quite an offering for somebody who might be here for just a weekend.”

Get some fresh air with a hike through the protected wetlands of Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary, or along the seven-mile Sandy Neck Nature Trail, both of which are accessible all year from Barnstable. Those feeling extra adventurous can hop on a bike and pedal the 25-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail to the Outer Cape.

Bookworms can browse Isaiah Thomas Books in Cotuit and Parnassus in Yarmouth Port for a wide selection of antiquarian titles and beach reads. Then end your day with one of the best sunsets you’ll ever see, from the boardwalk on Grays Beach (also known as Bass Hole) in Yarmouth Port.

COTUIT OYSTER COMPANY 26 Little River Road, Cotuit 508-428-6747, cotuitoystercompany.com FIVE BAYS BISTRO 825 Main St., Osterville 508-420-5559, fivebaysbistro.com SEA STREET CAFE 50 Sea St., Hyannis 508-534-9129, seastcafe.com NIRVANA 3206 Main St., Barnstable 508-744-6983, nirvanacoffeecompany.com GINA’S BY THE SEA 134 Taunton Ave., Dennis 508-385-3213, ginasbythesea.com

Eat

Enjoy mouth-watering local oysters while overlooking Hyannis Harbor at Spanky’s Clam Shack, which serves until mid-October. Year-round, grab a box to-go from Cotuit Oyster Company, or slurp in style at Five Bays Bistro.

Even if you sleep in, you can still grab breakfast all day at the year-round Sea Street Cafe in Hyannis. Coffee is always an option at the ever-popular Nirvana Coffee in Barnstable. At lunchtime, try an on-the-go vegan wrap from Earthly Delights in Osterville. Find waterfront dining at Italian favorite Gina’s by the Sea in Dennis, open through Thanksgiving, and the Ocean House, which serves seaside meals until New Year’s Eve. For a microescape within your getaway, book a five-course meal aboard the Cape Cod Dinner Train from Hyannis Station until late October.

Breweries abound year-round here: Barnstable Brewing, Cape Cod Beer, and Devil’s Purse Brewing Co. are worth the trip for a flight of craft IPAs, sours, and stouts. Live music quiets down; however, rock and blues acts are booked through winter at the Music Room in West Yarmouth.

Nirvana Coffee

Ashley Manor

OCEAN HOUSE 425 Old Wharf Road, Dennis Port, 508-394-0700, oceanhouserestaurant.com CAPE COD DINNER TRAIN 252 Main St., Hyannis 888-797-7245, capetrain.com EARTHLY DELIGHTS 15 West Bay Road, Osterville, 508-420-2206, earthlydelightscapecod.wordpress.com BARNSTABLE BREWING 485 West Main St., Hyannis, 774-470-6989; barnstablebrewing.com CAPE COD BEER 1336 Phinneys Lane, Hyannis, 508-790-4200, capecodbeer.com DEVIL’S PURSE BREWING CO. 120 Great Western Road, South Dennis, 508-694-7171, devilspurse.com

Stay

An indoor water park? And a year-round outdoor heated pool? Some families check in and never want to leave the Cape Codder Resort & Spa in Hyannis. For cozier digs, plenty of B&Bs are open in the off-season. The pet-friendly Lamb and Lion Inn was a favorite respite of the Kennedys, and Ashley Manor offers a culinary paradise, sourcing food from the organic farm across the street. Want a fireplace? Or a whirlpool tub? Have both at the Captain Farris House, open until mid-December. “We provide an experience,” says innkeeper Carol Watson. “When people come, they can really just exhale and relax, and feel like they’re away.”

MUSIC ROOM 541 Main St., West Yarmouth 508-694-6125, musicroomcapecod.com CAPE CODDER RESORT & SPA 1225 Iyannough Road, Hyannis 855-861-4370, capecodderresort.com LAMB AND LION INN 2504 Route 6A, Barnstable 508-362-6823, lambandlion.com ASHLEY MANOR 3660 Route 6A, Barnstable 508-362-8044, ashleymanor.net CAPTAIN FARRIS HOUSE 308 Old Main St., South Yarmouth 508-760-2818; captainfarris.com

Lower Cape

BY ELIZABETH SHAW

See & Do

There’s no shortage of off-season activities, whether you like the outdoors or gravitate towards shopping. Along Route 6A is the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History in Brewster. “The high season seems to be jam packed with families and kids. In the off-season, when it’s not as busy, we’re able to provide programs for our Cape Cod community,” says Teresa Izzo, program coordinator and publicist at the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History. (The museum will be taking a hiatus from December 19th 2021 until February 2022.) After your visit, continue down 6A to Nickerson State Park or make your way into Chatham to the Harding’s Beach Trail to put what you’ve learned to use.

While you’re in Chatham, don’t forget to visit the iconic Chatham Candy Manor, where you can pick up some homemade fudge and other treats. General stores are a staple on the Cape—and the Lower Cape is no exception. The Brewster General Store and Murphy’s General Store in Harwich have penny candy galore, toys, local treasures, and antiques. “It’s definitely changing and getting busier in the winter months. People seem to be staying longer and enjoying the off-season,” say owners of Murphy’s General Store Jay and Heather Skowronek. “And it’s nice to be a connective tissue to other year-round businesses. With more people, it’s nice to be open and having people know you and come back again and again. And we love being a part of the community here in Harwich Port.” The Bird Watcher’s General Store in Orleans has something for everyone (though birders will feel the most at home).

CAPE COD MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY 869 Main Street/Route 6A, Brewster, ccmnh.org NICKERSON STATE PARK 3488 Main St., Brewster mass.gov/locations/nickerson-state-park HARDING’S BEACH TRAIL Hardings Beach Road, Chatham CHATHAM CANDY MANOR 484 Main St., Chatham 508-945-0825, candymanor.com THE BREWSTER GENERAL STORE 1935 Main St., Brewster 508-896-3744, brewsterstore.com Nickerson State Park

The Bird Watcher’s General Store

MURPHY’S GENERAL STORE 540 Route 28, Harwich Port 774-408-7322, murphysgeneralstore.com BIRD WATCHER’S GENERAL STORE 36 Route 6A, Orleans 508-255-6974, birdwatchersgeneralstore.com SNOWY OWL ROASTERS 2624 Main St., Brewster 774-323-0605, socoffee.co RUGGIE’S 707 Main St., Harwich 508-432-0625, ruggiescapecod.com

Eat

Whether you’re in need of a hearty breakfast, brunch, or lunch, or just a mid-morning pick-me-up, there are plenty of places to choose from. Snowy Owl Roasters in Brewster is open year-round while their Chatham Espresso Bar is open through New Year’s. The Brewster location features a menu that is full of organic, ethically sourced coffees and teas, from classic espressos and lattes to seasonal specialties. If you’re looking for more savory dishes and a classic diner feel, stop by Ruggie’s in Harwich and enjoy their simple yet satisfying menu of fan-favorite breakfast and lunch plates.

When the sun goes down and it’s time to enjoy dinner with friends and family, the Lower Cape has a treasure trove. A trip to the Lower Cape isn’t complete without a meal at Land Ho!, where the casual pub atmosphere and comforting food makes it a favorite of locals and visitors alike. While the brewery scene on the Cape has exploded over the last few years, Hog Island Beer Co. has held onto the title of “outermost brewery” since opening six years ago. Hog Island is also host to The Jailhouse Tavern, named for the building the brewery and restaurant reside in. For a fine dining experience, visit the famed Brewster Fish House for a contemporary bistro dining experience. And if you’re looking for a different execution of the Cape’s incredible seafood, look no further than Chatham’s Bluefins Sushi & Saki Bar for everything from Wagyu burgers, grilled octopus, tuna poke, and of course, sushi.

Stay

With every type of accommodation to choose from, there’s no reason to leave the Lower Cape when it’s time to turn in. If you’re looking for a home-away-from-home (but right on the bay), check out Linger Longer by the Sea apartments in Brewster. Here you can experience the tranquility of the Brewster Flats in the off-season, and all you have to do is step off the porch. For more waterfront views, book a room at The Cove Motel in Orleans. And The Chatham Wayside Inn offers luxury accommodations right in the heart of Chatham center.

Snowy Owl Roasters

The Chatham Wayside Inn

LAND HO! 38 Main St., Orleans 508-255-5165, land-ho.com HOG ISLAND BEER CO. 28 West Road, Orleans 508-255-2337, hogislandbeerco.com BREWSTER FISH HOUSE 2208 Main St., Brewster 508-896-7867, brewsterfishhousecapecod.com BLUEFINS SUSHI & SAKI BAR 513 Main St., Chatham 508-348-1573, bluefinschatham.com LINGER LONGER BY THE SEA 261 Linnell Landing Road, Brewster 508-896-7714, lingerlongerbythesea.com THE COVE MOTEL 13 S Orleans Road, Orleans 508-255-1203, thecoveorleans.com THE CHATHAM WAYSIDE INN 512 Main St., Chatham 508-945-5550, waysideinn.com

Outer Cape

BY PATRICK FLANARY

Three Sisters

Chequessett Chocolate

MARCONI BEACH 99 Marconi Site Road, Wellfleet 508-255-3421, nps.gov/places/marconi-beach.htm ART’S DUNE TOURS 508-487-1950, artsdunetours.com NAUSET LIGHT 120 Nauset Light Beach Road, Eastham, nausetlight.org

See & Do

If you only have time to visit one beach on the Outer Cape, it should be Marconi Beach in Wellfleet. Nestled in the breathtaking expanse of the National Seashore, it’s one of the many scenic biking stops along the Rail Trail. Until mid-November, book a private or group sunset ride through the Provincetown dunes with Art’s Dune Tours. Or head to Eastham, where Nauset Light and the Three Sisters stand among the Cape’s most legendary lighthouses.

Shops are open sporadically right now, so call ahead. Womencrafts is one of Provincetown’s oldest boutiques, promoting female artisans, artists, and authors yearround. Until November, throw on a coat and roam Wellfleet’s sprawling outdoor flea market at the Drive-in Theatre. Year-round galleries showcasing local creations include the Truro Center for the Arts at Castle Hill and the Provincetown Art Association and Museum. Also worth a look: “They Also Faced the Sea,” a waterfront exhibit of giant photographed faces looking out on Fisherman’s Wharf. Provincetown partying comes out of hibernation for New Year’s, during the town’s annual First Light street celebration from December 30 through January 5.

Eat

No taste of the Outer Cape is complete without exquisite Wellfleet oysters, picked at low tide year-round. Slurp ’em by the dozen at laid-back Moby Dick’s in Wellfleet until midOctober, and don’t pass up the lobster rolls and fried clams. For something a bit fancier year-round, Brine in Eastham serves gourmet burgers and salads in addition to seafood.

Fewer dessert options are better than fresh malasadas—fried dough topped with sugar— from Provincetown Portuguese Bakery, open until Christmas. “We all seek out something sweet,” says Chuck Stanko, who with his husband George Carroll took over the 120-year-old bakery this year. “People love tradition. It’s part of the heritage of the town, and keeping that tradition is so important to me and George.”

Save room for more sweets at Chequessett Chocolate in North Truro, open until January 1. Take some to pair with an after-dinner glass of wine at nearby Truro Vineyards, open weekends during winter. “The Outer Cape in the off-season is the best-kept secret,” says Kristen Roberts, whose family owns Truro Vineyards. During the October harvest, volunteering for a few hours with staff will score you a sweet deal. “You put in a half-day of work,” says Roberts, “we’ll send you home with a bottle of wine.”

THREE SISTERS Cable Road, Eastham WOMENCRAFTS 376 Commercial St., Provincetown 508-487-2501, womencraftsptown.com WELLFLEET DRIVE-IN THEATRE 51 State Highway Route 6, Wellfleet 508-349-7176, wellfleetcinemas.com TRURO CENTER FOR THE ARTS AT CASTLE HILL 10 Meetinghouse Road, Truro 508-349-7511, castlehill.org PROVINCETOWN ART Association and Museum 460 Commercial St. 508-487-1750, paam.org MOBY DICK’S 3225 State Highway Route 6, Wellfleet 508-349-9795, mobys.com

Waterford Inn

Stay

After a day of hiking and tasting, nothing beats a cozy bed and breakfast rest in winter. Among the year-round accommodations are the Waterford Inn in Provincetown, a restored sea captain’s mansion. Enjoy breakfast without even getting out of bed at the charming Salt House Inn. Their room service breakfast is the inn’s signature offering, and brings your morning meal of choice right to your door. For something closer to the National Seashore, try an unpretentious Wellfleet cottage at the Holden Inn. And the Rugosa in Eastham, formerly known as the Penny House, welcomes your dogs, too.

BRINE 4100 State Highway Route 6, Eastham 774-561-2967, brinedining.com PROVINCETOWN PORTUGUESE BAKERY 299 Commercial St., Provincetown 508-487-1803, provincetownportuguesebakery.com CHEQUESSETT CHOCOLATE 8 Highland Road, Truro 774-538-6249, chequessettchocolate.com TRURO VINEYARDS 11 Shore Road, Truro 508-487-6200, trurovineyardsofcapecod.com WATERFORD INN 386 Commercial St., Provincetown 508-487-6400, thewaterfordinn.com SALT HOUSE INN 6 Conwell St., Provincetown 508-487-1911, salthouseinn.com HOLDEN INN 140 Commercial St., Wellfleet 508-349-3450, theholdeninn.com RUGOSA 4885 State Highway Route 6, Eastham 508-255-1248, therugosa.com