EMBODIED VOL. 2 | THE ART ISSUE

EMBODIED F E B R UA RY

2014 T

H

E

A R T I S S U E

VOL. 2

Editor-in-Chief Rachel Wang Fashion Director Brennan Kilbane Graphics Director Effy Jiang Business Manager Victoria Robichaud

Fashion Editor Olivia Perez News & Feature Editor Crystal Cox Beauty & Health Editor Hanna Armor View Editor Victoria Garcia Creative Adrianna Bachich, Margo Bravi, Kate Goldwater, Tanya Gupta, Kendall Hill, Alice Hindanov, Anna Kathleen, Tamara Leacock, Rachel Linquindoli, Sky Tian Mu, Cynthia Segal, Kristyn Stiegart

Copy Editor Kira Harada-Stone Web Editor Leah Roth PR Assistant Devyn Olin Layout Assistant Jordan Sternberg

If you are interested in contributing or joining EMBODIED, please contact us at embodiedmagazine@gmail.com Please visit us at embodiedmag.com

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Contributors Kenzi Abou Sabe, Natalie Campbell, Vanessa Castro, Dominique Drakeford, Alice Hindanov, Christine Lee, Koret Munguldar, Jake Henry Nevins, Cassidy Pahl, Christina Sahli, Kristyn Stiegart, Natasha Van Duser

Special Thanks Gallatin Student Resource Fund Gallatin Clubs Paradox Design NY AuH2O What the Nell Three Jane

Table of Contents

Spotlight 7 Our Cothing Our Selves: A chat with Judith Greenberg 8 The Edit 9 Revelation: Anna Kathleen

10Knit Picky: Carson Meyer 13 On Campus About the Cover

News & Features

Make-Up and Nail looks

by Alice Hindanov.

16 Interview with Esther Santher 20 Gallatin Fashion Show

Canvas to Couture: a Preview

22Nicolas Ghesquiere Takes Charge

“We’re paying homage to vintage Vogue cover in 1950, updated for Spring 2014.

Strong, unearthly blue-green shadow complements an equally strong pink lip softened by generously applied shimmer gloss and a new nail trend. White highlights on the inner eye and brow bone, dark brown liner and shadow and long, sharp lashes. We looked to Renaissance colors and modern fairy art for inspiration: magical and larger than life, glowing and shimmering, yet always with a hint of mystery and danger. This is the season of playing with strange colors and discovering new sides to ourselves, living the modern fairy tale.”

- Alice Hindanov

26Style Your Looks after a Spring Blockbuster

30 The Trend Evolutions of Skirts

FEBRUARY 2014 | VOL II | 3

Letter from the Editor Some other images for “Made in NY”.

L

ast

year

we

issue of Embodied M a g a z i n e.

mission was to establish a sound voice about female body image. We wanted to emphasize the frustrating media on the common perception of beauty.

In this issue, we have tried to improve and elevate the quality of the magazine by having a theme and creating more interesting content with compelling stories. This year

is the Art Issue which compliments the current theme of the Gallatin Fashion Show: Canvas to Couture.

It is undeniable that art and fashion have a delicate relationship. To go along with this theme we recruited artists to do sketches, illustrations, and graphic designs to accompany articles. We have also chosen to do several art-related features.

This is why we’ve decided to create a photo-shoot that emulates the Byzantine Empire’s mosaics and murals. “The Royal Wedding” is a story about the marriage between Emperor Justinian I and Queen Theodora. Queen Theodora was

in a time where men rule all. She assisted the Emperor on many things and rumor says that she was the co-regent along with Emperor, which is unheard of at the time.

Another one of my favorite features is the photo-shoot “Made in NY”. This photo-shoot captures the rarely found serene moments of city life. With disposable cameras in hand, we followed our model, Adrianna, who was draped in clothes from local designers, such as Nanette Lepore, around for a day.

The “Beauty & Health” section consists of articles regarding body

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Mosaic of Queen Theodora in the Basilica of San Vitale in Ravenna, Italy.

image and self-esteem. All of the messages are strong and well-intentioned, but we believe that there are other health issues that women can relate to and will gravitate to also.

Of course, we still want to continue to the tradition of discussion of body image, so we included a journal that transcribes a contributor’s usual day where she makes healthy decisions and give her tips on working out. It is not to perpetuate the mass media’s pressure to be thin, but rather to stay well by eating the right things and exercising to be healthy. As I mentioned above, we also delve into the discussion of mental health where we talked about taking care of stress as a college student and also as a woman. Different contributors gave guides on relaxation through meditation or gave ideas of simple everyday unwinding techniques. Despite these other upcoming additions, we will certainly continue to combat the issues of body image.

Behind-the-Scenes fun for “the Royal Wedding”.

The most exciting change of all, we’ve created a website for our magazine! Here we post weekly stories relating to women’s fashion, health, and other issues. Please go visit our website at embodiedmag.com and give us your support!

The staffs have spent a lot of time and effort on the development of EMBODIED VOL II and the online tie-in. We hope that you enjoyed it and we thank you very much for the support. See you again in the next issue!

Rachel, Editor-in-Chief

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Fashion

34The Royal Wedding Beauty & Health

48Natural Beauty 54 Be Naturally Smart 56 Journal: Kicking Off a Day with a Workout 59 Sweet Charity

64Mindfulness 64 De-Stressing in College

View 68 Art and Fashion

71There is No Place for Girls on the Internet

74It’s a Process 78Pump Your Breaks 81 The Exotic in Fashion Photography

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40Made in NY

Our Clothing Our Selves on fashion I wear a lot of black. It is very dangerous living on the Upper West Side because there are a lot of women’s clothing stores, so I can’t walk from my apartment to the subway without passing many good stores. Just seeing mannequins every day as I’m walking up and down the street affects my style. Recently, I went to Paris and it was interesting because when I was there everybody was wearing blazers. I was like, “Huh! Everybody is wearing these like sweaters!” So I came back thinking I was going to start wearing blazers, but when I returned I didn’t see them as much. I realized that by being around what other people are wearing in New York, by osmosis you just start prioritizing the things you see on the street. on the self I think students communicate a lot with their style. There are students who shave their heads in the middle of the semester, others who change their hair colour frequently; I often see students, especially if I see them over the years, trying out different selves and communicating different messages through their styles. I enjoy watching the experimentation. I am a feminist to my core, and I think that women should wear whatever they want to wear and as little as they want to wear and that is not a message in any way that they can be judged or taken advantage of. On the other hand, I think it is wise to be conscious of the messages you are communicating. You can manipulate [the messages] and if you decide that you want to reveal a lot of yourself because that is think you have to know how you are perceived in a larger society. I would encourage people to enjoy dressing -- to embrace themselves and their personal sense of style and not allow it to be dictated by a magazine or inhibited by a peer group. Express your individuality.

Kristyn Stiegart and Devyn Olin sit down with Judith Greenberg, who teaches The Self and the Call of the Other. The Gallatin professor talks experimentation and feminism in dressing, and why her daughter won’t let her shop at Brandy Melville.

on feminism With everything you have to listen to the other. Kids tell you at a young age what they want and what they don’t want. I think its hard if you are a feminist and your daughter wants to wear a pink Belle dress.

I remember my daughter went through a phase where she wanted to wear polyester pink Disney princess gowns and plastic heels everyday, and I let her. Because what I think is more important in that context was allowing her to feel creative and proud and free even if it was not necessarily what i would have picked for her. So I think that you have to give your kids a sense of their own voice. on signals It is interesting how people read into all sorts of signs in the decisions that they make. So its like if someone else is wearing similar clothes it’s like oh you shop here, so do I, so you must be like me. And this is a bit distressing to think that as kids are developing that they might actually exclude someone who for whatever reason does not shop or is not able to shop at some stores. There are signs of power, too.

Chloe and it was crazy because I’ve never really spent that much money something I will have forever. I just thought it is so Audrey Hepburn – if I had to have a person [who inspires my wardrobe], it would be her. She started teaching I was only a few years older than my students, as I was a graduate student and a TA. I was only 23 or 24 and my students were around 20, so I really wanted to seem more authoritative. I would dress in a suit or in a jacket to make myself look older and to feel more with my daughter in Brandy Melville, and I noticed a sweater and said “Oh, this is really cute, I would wear this!” My daughter said, “You cannot wear anything from Brandy Melville, because I wear let your students see you wearing Brandy Melville.”

Judith Greenberg chatting with us in the halllway of The Gallatin School.

on style I’m loving those loose, pajamaesque pants – The “high-end” sweatpants. They look chic, but they are comfortable, and allow room for your hands to go deep into your pockets. You have to be careful wearing sweatpants and walking around town in them, though, because you can end up looking like the Pillsbury Dough Boy, but I like these kinds because they are I love “chic-meets-comfort;” My closet staples are jeans and a Vince sweater. The sweaters are so soft and they look elegant. If I know I will wear something for years and it has classic staying power, or if I have a really important event, I will splurge. You have to be able to amortize it over years. My last major purchase was my cape – it’s

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THE EDIT

THE EMBODIED E-BOARD SHARES THEIR FAVORITE SPRING PICKS ART BY MARGO BRAVI

clockwise from top left Brennan Kilbane, Fashion Director Feu de Bois Candle, Diptyqueparis.com / Illesteva Sunglasses, MrPorter.com Olivia Perez, Editor Celine Pouch Victoria Robichaud, Business Manager Kim and Zozi bracelets, kimandzozi.com Effy Jiang, Graphics Director Doc Martens Boots, Crystal Cox, Editor Proenza Schouler Spring 2014, Victoria Garcia, Editor The Impossible Collection of Jewelry, Assouline.com Rachel Wang, Editor-in-Chief Alexander Wang satchel, Barneys.com

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Revelation

Anna

Kathleen We caught up with Gallatin alum Anna Kathleen and her most recent collection

Model Laura Jung poses with the designer in a look from Revelation.

Photo by Rachel Liquindoli.

and that idea must reach across the whole collection, seep into every garment and be the reason for all the garments being designed and worn together. I design with great concepts knowing full well that no customer will ever go into a dressing room with that same idea in their heads. I tried to narrow all these big ideas into a clean, concise and somewhat understandable aesthetic that when they try on one of my pieces they will feel special, powerful even.

Conceptually, Revelation is all about the “Journey to The Limit” or the search for the sublime. I chose the somewhat incongruent themes of mysticism and the natural violence or “dark pleasure” of the limit (this is the idea that the natural world can totally overwhelm you and terrify you with its power and beauty). This became a dialogue within the clothing between the “organic” and the “engineered”, or what we can possibly imagine or piece together about an unknown experience and those elements that are so much greater than us that we cannot know them but only hope to experience them.

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Q

Top: Customizable pocket tees from The Knitorious.

Get your own at theknitorious.tumblr.com Left: Meyer knitting at home.

Knit Picky

Olivia Perez, Embodied Fashion Editor, sits down with woven wonder Carson Meyer, the designer behind the online knitwear brand The Knitorious.

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How did you get into knitting? A: My grandma used to knit eve r y t h i n g I wore when I was a little girl. She taught me how to knit, but I think I was too young to learn and it would really frustrate me. I was in japan when I was 10, and I walked by this yarn store and I really wanted to buy the yarn and needles, even though I had no idea how to knit.

After she had passed I really made it a point to learn. My god mom ended up teaching me how to knit with all of the yarns I had gotten in Japan. Do any of your family members knit? No, just my grandma and I, but she passed. But I started knitting more than ever have knit clubs in high school, but once I moved to NYU and was thrown into lecture classes, it started becoming therapeutic to me. I have self-diagnosed ADD in the sense that I cant really pay attention and I get overly distracted. It was overwhelming to me to be in this new city and in big classes, so it turned into something that grounded me and set my mind on focus. It’s now the reason that I study Art Therapy now. How often do you knit? I don’t set a time. It’s whenever I’m free… watching movies, when I’m in class, when I’m on the train. You knit in class? Yeah. My classes

Meyer wearing items she knit herself.

in class. I would do it at times when I felt it wasn’t rude and I would try to be discreet. We’re talking a 400-person lecture hall, right?

No! We’re talking my Global Liberal Studies 20 person class. It would be when [the professor] was lecturing, so I would still be able to participate, listen, and be there. My professor this semester wrote me an email with the subject “Knitting.” say it was rude, but he ended up saying how much he loved watching me knit in class and that he used to be a knitter himself. Since then, I’ve always knit in class. Wow. I guess that’s NYU for you!

It’s one of those things that I can do without paying attention. That’s why a lot of my patterns are very simple; I don’t do a lot of crazy patterns because that’s when you need to count and be involved in.

If I’m doing basic stuff I can just go. I usually knit my Pocket T’s in class because they’re so simple.

What do you especially like to knit? I don’t know! I just started working on a hat, and I’ve only done one before. A wire connects the needles so you go around in a circle. I accidentally just tangled the whole thing. We’ll see how it goes. Your Pocket T’s are sold

on your biggest seller! How did that concept come about?

My brother wears pocket tees all the time, and I love them. I would always ask him what he wanted me to make him, since he’s not really a sweater/hat guy. So it was his idea

“I think there’s a disconnect between what we wear, which is so expressive, and the way we create it.”

to have me make him a pocket for his t-shirt, and eventually all of his friends loved them too. It was a really easy way to get my stuff out there. You can customize them, right? Yes, you can go on the website and order whatever color you want. It’s a great concept; I hardly see a knit pocket tee.

Is this something you’d like to eventually expand? nitely. I have a really big problem with consumer culture and the way we consume and over manufacture.

We just want everything cheap and we don’t really realize what that means. We’re so good at ignoring the fact that the great deals we have at one was exploited somewhere else. I think there’s a disconnect between what we wear, which is so expressive, and the way we create it. I love to knit because it’s a way of using art with functionality. It’s the root of manual labor. There’s so much to creating something and building a history behind it. If I do expand, it’s important to me to have it be homemade and not mass produced, which I think in a way has deterred me from starting anything. There’s a reason we have to ship things in from China, and I’d love to one day

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for me: young girls, people in foster home. I want to give them the same purpose knitting gave to me, therapy in a sense. I want to give people the same feeling that I got with my grandma’s sweaters: there’s so much love goes into knitting something. I go to a knit group every Thursday night, and I’ve learned to use a knitting machine, so maybe I’ll start with that for now. Your sister, Jennifer Meyer, has turned her art into a career. Do you want to do the same with your knitting? I want it to be a part of my life forever and I’d love to be able to share it. I just don’t want it to become something that stresses me out, that’s something I struggle with a lot of the time. It would be nice to have work and play come together in a perfect way, but for now I’m just trying to make it something I can enjoy. There’s so much I need to learn. What’s the next step?

Any new stitches or things you’re looking to knit? I recently found a bunch of baby sweaters that my grandma knit me when I was a baby. There’s so adorable!

They’re black and white stripe, off the shoulder, little crew neck sweaters. I’m taking them to my knitting group at the Textile and Art Center so that they can help me recreate that pattern. So I’m going to make a sweater based on the sweater that my grandma made me. I love how on your website you have all these little knit knick-knacks and toys that are absolutely precious. Have you ever done anything like that? Where do tions? I haven’t done anything like that! I need to. I follow other Tumblr accounts. You don’t notice how much is really knit in the world until you knit. I walked into the MAG museum in Columbus circle once and there was this lady who was crocheting mats and rugs and selling

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“It would be nice to have work and play come together in a perfect way, but for now I’m just trying to make it something I can enjoy. There’s so much I need to learn.”

them to people. I started to research people in New York who do things similar, and suddenly discovered a huge knitting base in New York.

My dad sent me an article yesterday of this woman who even knits with her arms, no needles. There’s such a culture here, especially in New York where art is so popular. something hip. You’re wearing a lot of your own stuff (knit sweater, beanie). Do you think you wear a lot of knits? I don’t think we acknowledges how many knit things we encounter each day. Yes. My best friend Maddie knits a lot too; we started knitting together in the knit club.

She made me a pillow for my birthday, and I knit my friend Marin this pig and sewed it onto the back of a my stuff and also give it away. I love that you’ve incorporated knitting into every aspect of you life. I’m currently getting “The Knitorious” patented. It’s been cool seeing the guys get involved in it.

I’ve always associated fashion with women and designing things that I want to wear. I never talk to my guy friends or my brothers about fashion, so it’s been so fun to see them want the hats and t-shirts. Do you make the patterns yourself ?

I’m not a perfectionist. I go with start something and end up making something else out of it. I usually go into a project knowing what I want to make, but it could change from a sweater to a pillow. What’s the hardest thing you’ve ever knit?

Doing the sweater was a huge challenge for me. I want to master the hat. What’s your best advice to a knitter? Don’t be cheap with your yarn. You’re going to put so much time into knitting something; having acrylic yarn that doesn’t hold well over time isn’t worth it. I stopped shopping at Michaels. Now I’m investing in cashmere.

On Campus Getting to Silver at 8am while looking good can be rough (trust us,

Austen Clements This Tischie keeps cool in a simple embroidered bomber and luxe-looking smoking slippers.

Christopher Minafo The Studio Art major and blogger behind Cement Fashion goes bold in bright-hued jeans.

Jennifer K Update a classic white tee with edgy footwear and bold shades, like this MCC major.

James Legris The CAS senior adds fun neon trainers to an otherwise tame ensemble.

Olivia Wendell Black riding boots and a matching mini make a perfect pairing for spring.

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INTERVIEW with Fashion Blogger

Esther Santer

Interview/Crystal Cox Photography/Effy Jiang Model/Esther Santer

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F

ashion Week—if only we could all get invited! While most of us give up on the idea of getting in, Esther Santer was determined to get in somehow. Just a year ago at New York Fashion Week, she crashed the Anna Sui fashion show and was able to attend with an invitation in hand. Ever since then, she began her blog, www.LouboutinsandLove.blogspot.com, and quickly gained followers. At only 23, she has had the opportunity to work with major brands and people. Not only does she get constantly invited to fashion shows but she also attends other major show that began her success.

“I crashed into a fashion show!”

EM: So how exactly did you end up crashing a fashion show?

ES: After Paris, I moved to New York City, across from Lincoln Center. Every day, I would pass Lincoln Center and a lot of times, there were premiers or events going on, and of course, twice a year, Fashion Week in those famous white tents. I hated always being on the outside looking in, so on

the last day of Fashion Week this past February, while I was sitting in Pre-calc, I texted my friend with a plan to crash the last fashion show of the season and told her to meet me in 30. It’s a long story which post, but the short version goes that my friend and I told some good stories to get through the door and got really lucky. We said something about our boss being inside with our tickets and then went around the room asking people if we could be their plus ones. About one minute before the Anna Sui show started, a very nice man gave us his tickets and he happened to have two of them. Like I said, we got lucky.EM: How was the Anna Sui fashion show like?

ES fashion show, I had no idea what to expect, but it was unreal. I have no words to describe it other than magical. So, I went home that night and said there is no way I am not going to another fashion show.

I am going to start a blog and next season. I am getting invited, so I did.

I worked really hard to promote months later, I received my very

ore for their Spring 2014 show.

EM: Your blog has allowed access to many shows. What is your blog about?

ES: My blog, Louboutins and Love, is kind of a compilation of Fashion Week coverage, trend reports, giveaways, beauty looks, behind-the-scenes on set, and my experiences at fashion events.

EM: You mentioned that you went to Paris. How did you end up going and what was the experience like?

ES: After high school, I went to school in Israel, where I made one of my closest friends, a girl from France. When school ended, I asked myself what was the point of investing so much time in a friendship if I would never see her that summer. I fell in love with the city and when I found out about a college that agreed to accept me

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last minute, I had to make what was probably one of the hardest decisions of my life. I had two days to decide if I would move my life to Paris. I knew I would regret it if I didn’t, so I just did it. I learned French, made friends, got an apartment, and it was the best year of my life.

EM: Is Paris how you became interested in fashion?

ES: I would have to say my love for fashion began in high school and then transformed into an obsession while I was living in Paris. In Paris, I was surrounded Parisian classmates, people watching from my favorite spot in Palais Royal, and just walking down the street.

Even the pretty little pastries in bakeries inspired me.

It was hard not to become a fashion addict and enthusiast for all things beautiful.

EM: Any favorite brands out there?

ES: My favorite designers are Celine, Isabel Marant, and Marc Jacobs, but the brands I wear regularly are Zara, Club Monaco, and H&M. I’m also an avid Nordstrom shopper and big fan of Love Leather.

EM: And how would you describe your personal style?

ES: My style is kind of rugged chic with a Parisian vibe. I love big sweaters, stacks of gold jewelry, lingerie inspired dresses, chunky heels, ankle booties, and embellished everything.

EM: Besides blogging, what else do you do in the fashion industry?

ES: I am primarily a fashion blogger, but I have worked for various companies doing marketing, design, and assisting on photoshoot sets. I absolutely love what I do and I actually just got a new job this week at Necessary Objects. They have several lines such as Necessary Objects, Aqua, and Bar III, which are sold at stores like Macy’s, Bloomingdales, and Urban Outand training under the creative director doing some of everything, but that is what makes it a dream job for me. I’ll be doing marketing, design, photoshoots, and anything in between. It’s going to be a lot of work, but I am so excited to be working for a brand I love and wear.

EM: What are some other collaborations you were able to work on?

ES: With Chris Fanning, I had the incredible experience of working on a Castle & Hammock shoot, a brand sold at Barneys, which was modeled by Meaghan Waller, the winner of Canada’s Next Top Model.

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Tommy’s brother, for his new line called Shape.

EM: You seem to have a lot of opportunities, working with such amazing people.

ES: Yes! I was also recently in a Nissan Altima taxi commercial. I was literally walking down the street when the director stopped me and asked if I wanted to be in it. We talked for a little while, and he loved the fact that I was a fashion blogger. It’s been airing for about a month now, but it is still surreal when my friends text me to say they just saw me in a commercial.

EM: You were also in another video. What was that about?

ES: I’ve also done a Kohl’s promotional video. After I did the copywriting for the video, my former boss asked if I would be in it. It was a lot of fun getting my hair and makeup done and hanging out with everyone on set, but it’s harder than you’d think getting all your lines right.

I honestly think I prefer being behind-the-scenes, but I am never one to pass up an opportunity, so I love branching out and trying new things.

EM after you crashed the show?

ES: Until you’re big enough, you usually have to contact the designer’s PR. You send them a little info about your blog, including your stats, and PR decides if you are invited or not. Bloggers are invited for press

purposes, so if PR determines that your post will don’t get discouraged if your stats are good and you don’t receive an invitation because sometimes they simply receive too many requests.

EM: But what about those who don’t have a blog?

ES: I hate to break it to all the talented fashionistas out there, but at the end of the day, it really is all about connections. I wouldn’t, however, say it is necessarily about having connections; it is about making connections. My biggest tip is to go to fashion events, which is particularly easy if you live in NYC. lowing the right designers and bloggers. At the events, talk to absolutely everyone, exchange business cards, and stay connected. You never know what opportunities can come from just talking to the right people.

EM: Who are some people you’ve met in the fashion industry?

ES: I’ve met fashion blogger Rumi Neely from FashionToast. I’ve also met Jay Manuel, former ANTM creative director, as well as Jessica Lowndes from 90210. I’ve also met celebrity stylists, such as Brad Goreski.

EM: What’s the general experience of going to a fashion show like?

ES: Shockingly, fashion shows only last about ten minutes. but after waiting in line to get in and then waiting for the show to start, the experience takes about an

hour. Fashion shows are also very intimate, depending on the show, so there could be as few as 8-10 rows of seats on either side of the runway. Besides for the amazing collections you see walk, I think the experience is really in witnessing something so special with other people who are as obsessed with the industry as you are. You are literally surrounded by celebrities, fashion icons, designers… the people whose jobs you can only dream about, and you are all together for those 10 minutes watching the show.

EM: Any tips for attending one?

ES: Tips for attending would be to arrive early so you can take a look at all the name tags of the editors and celebrities on the seats so you know exactly who you want to approach at the end of the show. Take advantage! Not often will you have access to so many amazing people without masses of people around you, so prepare questions and don’t be shy! Stock your purse with business cards. Fashion shows are the greatest networking events and you never know who you’re going to meet, so be ready to introduce yourself and hand out cards to anyone and everyone. When I am at a show, I even give my card to all the celebrities there.

Who knows if they will actually check out my blog, to LA, and maybe my card falls out on their kitchen table, someone picks it up… you just don’t know!

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The Gallatin Fashion Show

Canvas to Couture: a Preview What you can look forward to and why you should go.

The annual Gallatin Fashion Show is a much-anticipated event where Gallatin’s prospective fashion designers gather to showcase their talent. There is a different theme each year. Last year’s theme, MusiCouture, explored the relationship between music and fashion.

This year’s show, properly named Canvas to Couture, has an Art and Fashion theme. The producers, Rachel Plutzer and Theresa Anderson have done the show for The designers always present creative and unexpected ideas.

“We are very excited to see what the Gallatin students come up with every year,” said Rachel, “For example, in Sexposed, we [expected] to see a lot of drag queens, but they came up with a lot of cool ideas instead.” Since the theme this year is art, we thought it would be great to take a look at what the designers are inspired by.

Kate Goldwater graduated from Gallatin in 2006 and she is currently the owner of AuH2O, a thrift-boutique in East Village. Her inspiration for this show is “Fashion vs. Function”. She sees this as a rare

Top: Misguided, by Wangechi serves as an inspiration to Tamara Leacock.

Below: Kate Goldwater uses jewels as materials.

Left: Bride, by Wangechi is also on Tamara’s inspiration board

opportunity to create something entirely impractical, not bound by practicality and functionality. “I think the relationship between art and fashion comes down to inspiration. Without inspiration you are left with the bland and the boring, which are neither art nor fashion.”

Tamara Leacock, a NYU graduate student, intends to explore how to “engage with activism in a way that combines sustainability with the unsustainable realities that we human identities with the suprem-

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Left: Metro Cards are some of the quirky materials for Kate Goldwater’s collection.

Bottom: Untitled, by Jean Michel Basquiat, is also serves as inspiration for Tamara.

“The show is going to be awesome, spectacular, and fabulous.”

-Theresa

them.” She is working as a part of the artistic movement, Bricolage, which includes Wangechi Mutu, Jean Michel-Basquiat, and David Hammons. “I am exploring how the key to moving into the next phase of our world is not through self deprecation but rather by embracing the hybridity of our identities as social beings, as activists and as humans.”

Other designers such as last year’s Tori Holbrook, Benjamin Klemes, will appear again this year. Along with these strong designers, there are also installations from Alex Chernow that we

could expect cannot be missed.

Other than the spectacular show that is put together, audience members can also expect swag bags with amazing gifts such as make-up collections based off of popular shows and movies such as Game of Thrones and The Hobbit.

There are other surprises in the bag that shouldn’t be overlooked.

There will also be an after party that, if last year was any indicafood, drinks, music, and people.

The Gallatin Fashion Show is fashionista should not miss, with the awesome show, swag bags, and after party, it will be a great night to live it up and enjoy. Go RSVP for the event quickly since the seats run out swiftly and be ready for the big night!

Left: Kate Goldwater presenting her speech and programs along with the look book for the MusiCouture show from last year.

If you would like to attend the event, please RSVP: http://gallatin.nyu.edu/utilities/events/2014/02/gallatinfashionshow.html FEBRUARY 2014 | VOL II | 21

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Nicolas Ghesquiere Takes Charge: What will the upcoming Louis Vuitton Fashion Week look like?

by Jake Henry Nevins

T

he news traveled with inarguable ubiquity this past fall that Marc Jacobs, he of the lavish spectacles and loud stylistic proclamations, would be leaving his post at heralded Louis Vuitton after 16 years to refocus his energy on his namesake brand. After a decade and a half of continually outdoing himself at Louis Vuitton, it was announced that, in an attempt to capitalize on the enormous global potential of the label, Marc Jacobs International Company, L.P. would conduct an IPO. Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, told Women’s Wear Daily that the change-up “requires a lot of investment on our side, a lot of management on our side, and a lot of personal investment for Marc...to really give the input, both creatively and communication-wise on the brand, all over the world.” Assuredly, Jacobs will do about the fate of Louis Vuitton. Jacobs, who pioneered single-handedly inculcated a sense of ready-to-wear in a brand that was singularly known for its monogrammed accessories, a global emblem of sumptuous luxury. He made the LV shows the most anticipated and entertaining of each and every fashion week. Who could forget the SS13 checkered confection on moving escalators, or the ethereal white carnival ride in 2012, or 2007’s parade of scantily-clad nurses? The designer also championed LV’s collaborations with artists like Richard Price and Takashi Murakami, two pairings that proved

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lucrative and cutting-edge. Jacobs capped it all off with an all-black, intricately detailed affair last October, an ode to “the showgirl in his reign as fashion’s luxe king, but surely made the industry ponFittingly, Nicolas Ghesquiere, formerly of Balenciaga, was primed for the job. After his own greatly successful tenure at the Parisian haus, he was replaced by the younger, more sporty Alexander Wang in November of 2012. A year was spent exploring numerous creative options, and eventually, on November 4th 2013, LVMH and their partnership. Many names were tossed around, such as Alber Elbaz of Lanvin and Phoebe Pilo of Céline, but it was Ghesquiere who ment ignited little surprise or opposition. After all, the designer’s time at Balenciaga is generally conceived as an enormous success. Ghesquiere explored the boundaries of shape and proportion, of monochrome and of print, all with considerable respect for the cherished roots of the Balenciaga brand. Almost more impressive was his keen eye for what

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sells. I doubt anyone could walk the streets of Manhattan without a Balenciaga Lariat or Arena City bag within eye-shot. We may have grown tired of the look now, but there’s no doubting Ghesquiere’s innate ability to permeate the department stores with what women want: an easy yet edgy bag with enough town and enough sophistication to peruse Park Avenue. As Louis Vuitton’s iconic yet overwrought “LVs” and checkers are slowly fading, Ghesquiere is just what the brand needs to revive its accessories.

Of course, Ghesquiere does not fall short when it comes to readyto-wear either. Perhaps his debut this upcoming Fall Fashion Week will be a more understated affair than what we’ve come to expect from Vuitton under Jacobs, but the clothes will surely pack a mean punch.

Ghesquiere’s collections at Balenciaga possessed a nuanced juxtaposition of sophistication and experimentation.

He had a way of pushing the fashion world collectively forward, yet without disrespect to founder Cristobal Balenciaga.

In fact, Ghesquiere often reimagined looks from the Balenciaga archives, paying homage to the original. In his 15 years at the helm, the designer made Balenciaga clothes the clothes for it

girls in transition, with a balance of modernity, strength and pure, unabashed fun. Nicolas’s specialty was presenting pieces that might confuse you when put together in a totally non-confusing way. Take,

for instance, Fall 2012, a galactic procession of animal-print and scisleek, knee-length skirts and boxy, metallic pants. You wouldn’t believe, based on that aforementioned description, that this collection was once centered on workingwomen, but the clothes spelled out wear-ability and functionality with ease. Or Fall 2009, Ghesquiere’s dip into the sometimes-precarious world of conjoining the masculine with the feminine. Here, the shoulders were strong and the drapery was soft.

Charmeuse skirts and printed silk dresses gave the collection a fragility that was balanced with sharp, rigid edges. “Parisian,” he called it.

ing is different than that of Jacobs’; So, as Ghesquiere, the quintessential Parisian, prepares to replace Jacobs, the quintessential American, what can we expect?

Both are counted as two of the

Marc constructs clothing that feels like a vintage, albeit extravagant, treasure; both confrontational, but in different ways. Ghesquiere last presented a collection for his farewell from Balenciaga, a year and a half ago. In all his offerings at the haus, this was easily his most sensual, with skin exposure (and lots of it), leading the way. Of course, as he always masterfully does, the designer did sexy in a clean, pragmatic way.

The crop-tops that soon stagrams of many fashion devotees were spearheaded by this very show, pairing midriff-baring bustiers with polished tuxedo pants and

the sometimes-gothic approach of Jacobs. Also vital is that Ghesquiere does for LV what he did for Balenciaga: create the “it” bag. The youngsters are no longer pining after Vuitton bags, but their mothers are. Much of Ghesquiere’s appeal to LVMH was his instinctual sensibility to the desires of women when it comes to accessories. Hopefully, gone will be the days of LV’s singular appeal to country-club women; Ghesquiere should infuse the brand with an edginess that resonates with young women without losing a sense of what lies at Vuitton’s core.

Creatively directing a billion-dollar fashion brand with veteran-like ease is no easy task, but the best, like Jacobs and Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld, have done it by fusing their own visions with the took over. In the case of Ghes-

signers of the last decade, but the challenge here lies in the latter’s imprinted in the codes of Vuitton, thus, Ghesquiere must use all his creative, ingenious might to put a fresh, equally evocative spin on the brand. For one, the marvelous razzle-dazzle of a Louis Vuitton show from Jacobs might be replaced by Ghesquiere’s preferred quietude. The 42 year-old Frenchman might want to kick-off his new beginning by letting the elegance of his clothes speak in front of a pure, mild backdrop. Similarly, the DNA of Ghesquiere’s cloth-

If we take Ghesquiere’s last creative endeavor as any indication, he’ll take Louis Vuitton in a refreshingly buoyant, youthful direction. A smart, savvy designer, he’ll be sure to maintain that unmistakable sense of opulence inherent in any Louis piece, but one can expect him to liven up and modernize

the Balenciaga aesthetic with his own take on proportion, texture and cut. Louis Vuitton, though, is a step up from Balenciaga, both monetarily and in its global significance. Of course, Ghesquiere has the whole fashion industry behind him; his hiring didn’t ignite nearly as much fury among fashion’s inner circle than Alexander Wang’s or Hedi Slimane’s at Saint Laurent did. In March, we’ll get our

“Much of Ghesquiere’s appeal to LVMH was his instinctual sensibility to the desires of women when it comes to accessories.”

Ghesquiere for Vuitton at Fall Fashion Week, and while many are unsure of what trajectory the designer plans to take the brand, it is guaranteed to be an action and fashion-packed affair.

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Style Your Look after a Spring Blockbuster

by Natalie Campbell

T

he wind tunnel of Astor Place, the twenty minute walk from Lafayette to campus, and the unpredictable weather patterns of February make the “I am going to the gym later look” an everyday occurrence.

We have all fallen prey to this slump before: giving up fashionable and accepting comfortable. Espe-

cially in New York City, fashion inspiration can be drawn from every street corner, yet we put on our fuzzy socks, make herbal tea, and

Endless Love

style of Gabriela Wilde’s character, Jane, will inspire you to dress simple but girly. It also doesn’t hurt that you get to stare at Alex Petteyfer for two hours.

Jade’s style is effortlessly pretty. This girl next door is always put together and never strays from her girly simplistic get up. Jade’s ral prints with basics, wearing sheer dresses, and experimenting with lace, crochet, and silk. For makeup, Jade always presents a clean face with a nice summer bronze. In order to achieve Jade’s all around aurora one must embody simplicity, neutrals, and sophistication.

This is a perfect spring trend to try due to its effortless feel and timeless look. Florals and neutrals never go out of style, so experiment and

Release Date: February 14th This is the Valentine‘s Day release that I will not be embarrassed to see with my girlfriends. It is the typical story of a privileged girl that meets a charming boy. Falling in love is easy for the two, but their parents are trying to break up their relationship before it even begins. Although we have heard this story before, the

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weather on the near horizon, it is time to get re-inspired and try trends that are outside the warmth of a shaggy knit pullover. Luckily for all of us, we do not need to stand on the corner of 57th and 5th to scout out upcoming trends from stylish streetwalkers. We

can still hibernate in the comfort of central heating, popcorn, and Buncha-Crunch while gaining new ideas for our Spring wardrobe with some laughs and maybe a couple February and March all encapsulate different fashion trends. Switch it up: see a movie outside of your comfort zone, and who knows you

look your own. Seeing Endless Love may result in tears or heartache, but remember to appreciate the dedication Jade exudes when she stays true to her style during all the tribulations she faces.

The Monuments Men Release Date: February 7th George Clooney, Cate Blanchett, and Matt Damon.

Need I say more? This movie is already surrounded by buzz and has been dubbed “this year’s Argo.” George Clooney directs this World War II movie that focuses on a platoon that has to rescue art pieces from Nazi thieves and return them to their rightful owners. Fashion inspiration can be taken from all of the characters, who are put together in the perfect 1940’s attire. We can embrace this historically based drama by daring to be as brave as the characters. Try experimenting with the androgycan be fashion forward. With its 1940s inspiration this trend will cause you to stand out from the New York City crowds.

Cate Blanchett plays Rose and holds her own amongst a mostly male cast. Rose is always put together even when she is dealing with a crisis. This trend allows her to be one of the guys, while still being chic and put together. Rose’s style is easily transIn order to achieve this look, one must be willing to play with proportions, wear box cuts, and sport bold hair accessories. Lightweight suits, a simple dress with a strand of pearls, and deep red lips are a must to rock this trend.

The Monuments Men may have award buzz for acting and directing, but every moviegoer should be on the lookout for the return of the 1940’s wardrobe.

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300: Rise of an Empire Release Date: March 7th Though it is a sequel, 300: Rise of an Empire does not disappoint. This storyline follows the Persian Army led by King Xerxes as they march on towards all the major Greek city-states. Themistocles leads the city of Athens, and to his disapproval, he is forced to

form an alliance with the traditional rivals of Athens in the Battle of Salamis and Marathon. Rodrigo Santoro plays King Xerxes or “the God King,” and captures the audience’s attention not just through his acting, but also with his untraditional clothing. Usually Xerxes is depicted naked covered in silver and gold jewels. So unique,

Xerxes costumes can inspire one to take risks in the Spring with gold and silver metallic accents. His costumes can translate into everyday pieces and not being afraid to wear more.

In order to successfully achieve metallic for spring, you must decide if you are going to make it the focus of their look or an accent. In Xerxes’s costumes, the jewels are the main draw.

Although it is all accessories, Xerxes’s look is a showstopper that will shine to the back row of the auditorium. To translate this look into everyday wear, one must go all out and wear metallic sheen

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boldly. With this decision, all other accessories must be solid colors and neutrals to tone down the fashion forward trend. Metallic for spring can also be achieved by pairing a

Whether its with a metallic bag, shoes, or a ton of jewels, going this path can be safer while still achieving this trend. So take one from Xerxes’s book, go bold, go metallic, and become stylishly victorious.

Rio 2

ways fun to dress in bold hues and by mixing the two staples together and no one will have to know that cartoon characters inspired your bold new style.

Release Date: April 11th Rio 2 provides the perfect escape from the winter blues. A feelgood cartoon created from Blue Sky Productions, Rio is a movie to enjoy with the whole family. This sequel follows Blu, Jewel, and their three kids that are living in Rio de Janeiro. Jewel decides that her family needs to venture out and live with other birds in the Amazon. Every scene of this movie

fashion forward prints.

This trend can be achieved by mixing and matching different jewel colored pieces together. The best colors for this look in Spring 2014 are fuchsia, burnt orange, yellow, and pink. Also, this spring trend can be achieved

prints, and a need to experiment with bold designs. The scenery and cartoon characters make you want to travel to Rio for yourself, while also dressing the part. Anne Hathaway plays Jewel; the character’s name speaks for itself. Radiant in purple and colorful in personality:

clothing or jewelry. Jewel is known as an “exotic” character becayse she craves traveling and exploration. She wants her whole family to travel and experience the Amazon, and when thinking of the Amazon and Rio both yield an exotic color palette. In the springtime, it is al-

Divergent

Catching Fire, Divergent has gained a lot of press and hopes to

Release Date: March 21st Young adult book adaptations popular with Twilight, The Hunger Games, and now Divergent.

On the heels of the release of

a futuristic dystopia, the protagwhat faction she belongs to, until she learns it may be an unconventional answer. Confused where to turn, Tris chooses an unlikely path but has to hide that she is actually Divergent. Shailene Woodley perfectly plays a strong female role that inspires viewers to go against the norm and conquer the unexpected. Faced with many tribulations, Tris conquers them all while looking sporty and fresh.

Conquer her look and spirit by dressing relaxed and sporty just in time for the spring weather.

The 90s sportswear trend is perfect for spring since it embodies effortless cool and independence. Tris

experiments with different sportswear getups. For Spring 2014, embrace the sporty side inside of you while making it your own.

This look can be accented with jewels, accessories, or some wedged sneakers. During Fashion Week, this trend was seen on runways from the likes of DKNY, Alexander Wang, and Emilio Pucci.

Tris’s style supports the runways forecast, being chic can be simple this spring. As Divergent advertises, “one choice can transform you,” so act like Tris and make the decision right for you, and never shy away from a fashion challenge.

FEBRUARY 2014 | VOL II | 29

The Trend Evolution of the Skirt

by Crystal Cox

W

hether you’re rocking the

a maxi skirt, hoping it doesn’t pick up along dirt, skirts have come a long way. Since centuries ago, long skirts were considered a luxury because fabric was expensive. They were linked to class and society. Moreover, narrow-

ness of a woman’s waist was also considered important for status and beauty—hence, women would expand the girth of their hips with

hoops and petticoats to make their waistlines look narrow. However, changed overtime, and so has fashion. Hemlines have been constantly rising and falling since the 1920s, like the stock market (although rise in lines didn’t necessarily correlate to how well the economy was doing). So while you’re deciding what skirt to wear for the next date or party, take a stroll through the history of skirts and see how skirts have evolved into what we see now.

“Hemlines have been constantly rising and falling since the 1920s, like the stock market”

1950s: The Circle Skirt

The circle skirt, otherwise known as the poodle skirt, was very popular among teenagers, who wore them daily as well as to school dances. Not only was the skirt easy to move around in but it was also fun, coming in various of bright colors and designs.

The term “poodle skirt” comes from the design of the French poodle that was often patched on.

Other designs included gos. Flamingos—clearly, it was the era to just have fun!

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Left: Julianne Goldmark (left) and Emily Matson of Emi-Jay. Bottom: Emi-Jay hair ties, from $8.99 at emi-jay.com

“It was the era to just have fun!”

1960s: The Miniskirt

Before the 60s, miniskirts were only worn by dancers, athletes, and performers. But Mary Quant, a designer of the “Swinging London”, a popular place among the young and trendy, popularized this skirt. Generally, miniskirts came halfway up the thighs, drastically shortening the hemlines. As a symbol of liberation, miniskirts were widely popular. Hot pants and short shorts were equally popular.

1970s: The Midi & the Maxi

Because the miniskirts couldn’t get any shorter, hemlines had to go down. This contributed to the feminist movement going on at the time, calling for a more conservative length. The midi, an intentional setback to the miniskirt, came down body types. The maxi, as the term itself suggests, is the longest skirt, reaching all the way down to the ankles. It made a fashion statement for the feminists, as though to prove that they were covered and well-grounded. Nevertheless, the miniskirt wasn’t completely gone and many still wore them, allowing people to change hemlines whenever they wanted!

1980s: Tiered, Bubbled, and Long

Eighties fashion was bold, colorful, and perhaps even crazy. Short skirts continued on—just with different styles. They became known as the “rah-rahs”, generally worn by cheerleaders. Other styles came in tiers with layers of three while some had a bubble shape, which were just slightly puffy, known as the “puffball” skirt. Short skirts began to appear in work wear as well.

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The 1990s: The Grunge Era

This is the decade that was all about the cool, gritty, relaxed style. With vampy burgundy lips to oversized cardiwere delicate dresses paired with Doctor Martens, but so were skirts. The indigo denim miniskirt was the perfect combination, running a bit higher on the waist. Slap bracelets and mood rings were optional, of course. The skirt suit was also on trend, pairing the same pattern top and bottom.

The 2000s: A Continuation Britney Spears); it was more about the lowrise jeans and the tracksuits rather than the skirts.

Nevertheless, the jean miniskirts were still in trend, often paired with leggings and Uggs. And unfortunately, crocs were also in high demand.

Now: The Modern

Although it seems as though all trends change with each season and new designers, it’s safe to say that the 2010s is all about modernity. It’s classic and edgy. A-line skirts, both short and long, have edged up to more structured silhouettes, demonstrating the ability to merge feminine and masculinity in one. The more trendy option seems to be the big, bold retro skirts that fashionistas are often shown pairing with delicate, feminine tops. Although the minis and maxis are here to stay, subtle changes make them more unique and bold. Either with sheer panels or touches of bold patterns, there’s no reason to keep wearing the same skirts from the past. Structured origami skirt, which as its title suggests, has clean lines folded over to show edgy cuts and lines. Hemlines fall anywhere and everywhere, bringing in all the trends from the past: minis, midis, maxis, and even somewhere in between all those m’s. Well, the more options, the better!

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T H E R O Y A L WEDDING The union between the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I and Queen Theodora, who was the most influential and powerful woman in the Byzantine Empire.

Creative Director Rachel Wang | Photographer Sky Tian Mu | Edit Effy Jiang Make-Up Alice Hindanov | Model Tanya Gupta & Charles Jovellano All Vintage Pieces provided by Paradox Designs NYC (weparadox.com)

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Made in New York We <3 NY! Model Adrianna Bachich dons pieces from the Garment Districtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-and-brightest; all local, all chic.

Creative Director // Brennan Kilbane, Fashion Director

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Dress Nanette Lepore, nanettelepore.com Handbag Merci-Fortune, merci-fortune.com

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Sweatshirt The Reformation, thereformation.com Dress Nanette Lepore, nanettelepore.com Handbag Merci-Fortune, merci-fortune.com

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Jacket Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Shirt Dead Rabbit Culture Skirt Nanette Lepore Handbag Nanette Lepore

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Top Alexander Wang, barneys.com Bra and Shorts Modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own

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Jacket Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Own Tee Dead Rabbit Culture, deadrabbitculture.com

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Tee Dead Rabbit Culture, deadrabbitculture.com Skirt and Clutch Nanette Lepore, nanettelepore.com Shoes Converse, converse.com

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Top The Reformation, thereformation.com Skirt Derek Lam, barneys.com

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Natural Beauty Kristyn Stiegart investigates springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s barely-there makeup trend, no-makeup makeup.

Creative Director Olivia Perez Photographer Rachel Liquindoli Make Up Kendall Hill

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What is used during this shoot: Clinique Redness Solutions, Coastal Scents Contour Blush and Eclipse palettes, Estée Lauder Pure Color lipstick, L’Oréal Le Kohl Pencil in Café, MAC in Perfect Topping, NYX Illuminating Bronzer in Narcissistic, Stila Glaze Lip Liner in Brick, Urban Decay Eyeshadow Base and Glide-On Eye Pencil in Zero.

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BTW X Natural Beauty

Lisa Eldridge’s YouTube make-up tutorial.

(Source: Youtube. com)

Kendall working on the set of Natural Beauty

For the shoot, I wanted to create a series of looks that embraced a balance of makeup and color with Kristyn’s natural beauty; makeup should always be a tool to enhance beauty rather than cover up what already exists. My goal was to emphasize fresh skin and to add a pop of interest to the look, be it shape, color, or sparkle!

I used a combination of skin products to achieve a dewy finish; moisturizer, foundation, concealer, bronzer, and cream highlighters. For each look I added small touches to accentuate certain features, like her eyebrows or lips. I worked with a great team that allowed me to express myself and give me constructive feedback on my ideas. In the brainstorming process, I thought about the unique patterns and colors of freckles (and how they aren’t celebrated nearly enough). I decided to utilize this idea of highlighting and enhancing specific areas of the face as an ode to lips, eyebrows, eyes, etc.

I’m very inspired by modern art and the balance of shape and color. I get a lot of inspiration from outlets like Instagram and Youtube, but I particularly enjoy the work of Lisa Eldridge, a makeup artist from the UK. She blogs and makes tutorials for fans and is featured in the greatest fashion magazines in the world. I’m inspired not only by her artistry, but her passion for the history behind the industry and products.

Makeup or no makeup (or no-makeup makeup), experiment to find a look that works for you. You are beautiful, so embrace it! xx Kendall

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NS Be

aturally

mart

by Christine Lee With thousands of beauty products on the market its no simple task to choose. Recently, several companies have come up with organic beauty products â&#x20AC;&#x201C; items that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contain irritants and carcinogens, which can be harmful and irritating. Check out this list of organic beauty products that will not only make you look better, but also live healthier.

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Josie Maran Magic Marker Lip & Cheek Stain Have your lips ever been stained by eating too many berries? Well Josie Maran’s Magic Marker helps you achieve this natural look, in a bit more organized fashion. The marker comes in six beautiful shades. It is a long-lasting natural lip and cheek stain that you can carry with you wherever you go. It contains hyaluronic acid and sugar extracts to help you achieve lovely plump lips for every occasion.

The brand Josie Maran Cosmetics makes natural, 100% organic argan oil-infused, eco-friendly skincare & cosmetics. This stain will moisturize your lips and help them stay soft and healthy.

Dr. Hauschka Translucent Make-Up There are many make up trends that come and go such as bright eye shadow, thick eyeliner, and a trend that will never go away. Dr. Hauschka Translucent Make-Up is a light liquid foundation that consists of mineral pigments and extracts of anthyllis, carrot, avocado, macadamia, and jojoba oils. It is formulated to enhance individual’s natural beauty by covering imperfections and evening out skin tone. It gives a smooth suitable for every day wear.

Dr. Bronner’s Magic Pure Castile Classic Soap Taking your make up off is way more important than putting it on. Dr. Bronner’s Castile Classic Soap comes in two forms: bar soap and liquid soap. The liquid soaps are completely biodegradable and vegetable based. They are formulated with a combination of organic extra virgin coconut, olive, jojoba and hemp oils. There are no synthetic foaming agents, thickeners or preservatives. Also, even though I personally love to use this soap as my body wash, this soap can be used for 18 purposes (hand soap, all purpose household cleaner, laundry detergent, shampoo, etc.). Can it get any better?

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Journal

Kicking Off A Day with a Work Out

by Christina Sahli Photography / Effy Jiang

4:

ber 2 m e v y No unda

S

When I woke up I felt a strong need to begin my exercise regime. I do not like sitting around waiting for my body to become what I want- I want to take action. For me it’s all different types of back of the arm toning exper arm for each exercise type, and twenty reps each.

It is important to start every day with a goal.

At my height of 5’4’’ if I wanted to burn 2 pounds a week off, I would need to eat 1200 calories a day not including making up calories burned from cardiovascular exercise.

I headed over to the gym and knocked out 1000 calories on the elliptical, which includes so much more body movement than the treadmill. I was on it for 100 minutes, entering my weight of 120 pounds to get an accurate calorie burn read at level 22, burning 10 calories a minute! I kept a constant pace rocking out to my Rihanna pandora station.

All of this was done before breakfast. I personally like to start my day exercising on an empty stomach because afterwards you only eat until you are full because your abs creates a smaller area of tightness after a workout, creating a more full feeling. I knocked out my calcium with 2 cups of white skim milk, although as my NSCA strength coach dad, Scott Sahli, says, chocolate milk is the best replenishment after a workout. I had a bowl of strawberries as well.

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After 40 min I refilled my water to make it through the next hour. Key: drink as much water as you can in your day because if at any part you are thirsty, it is TOO LATE. Stay ahead of the game because hydration does not wait for you.

Your organs need water. Also, remember if you pee clear, you know your body is getting enough water.

Next I did the abs machine in which you bring your knees up to a minty degree angle, working your abs with only your own body weight. I alternate between reps of 10-15 pushing my body to its limit set wise to feel that magnificent burn.

The point of exhaustion is success. Sweat dripping, panting, heart racing success with the fire in your abs is the best way to know YOU ARE KILLING IT.

On my leg machines I did 6 sets of 30 reps for inner thighs and 6 sets of 20 reps of leg kickbacks. Always feel free to take breaks and come back to these machines to do the whole leg workout a second time; I know I always like to get some additional toning in!

I never try to overdose on calcium.

Being from the Midwest I know it directly affects my fat. I get my protein from nuts because meat causes me great weight gain, and eggs make me gag.

I eat nuts and chocolate covered blueberries from M2M as two little snacks in my day, and conclude the day with carrots, apples, and peanut butter.

Generally I work on Sundays for two LONG shifts at NYU Phonathon, but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let that stop me from exercising! When you are in class, studying, or sitting at your job like I do, do 90 degree angle leg lifts, lifting the bent leg up four inches and back down again sitting period, with brief breaks to heal the burn. This gives you that toned upper thigh I long for that can be spotted on Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret models. I adore working out while I work- multitasking is in the makings of a winner!

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SWEET CHARITY

Left: Julianne Goldmark (left) and Emily Matson of Emi-Jay. Bottom: Emi-Jay hair ties, from $8.99 at emi-jay.com

Combining a thriving accessory business and a charitable organization can be, to some, a lofty goal; yet to Julianne Goldmark and Emily Matson (an NYU undergrad!), it's just another day on the job. Did we mention they're not yet 20?

The West Coast teens began Emi-Jay, a philanthropic online company that produces hand-dyed hair ties and donates a portion of the proceeds to various groups in need. Since starting Emi-Jay in 2009, the two have gained the attention of numerous publications and style setters -- Oprah, Michelle Williams, and the inimitible Eva Chen, to name a few.

"Emi-Jay comes from a combination of our two nicknames," says Matson, co-founder. "We noticed a lack of chic and affordable accessories on the market and were inspired to make our own." The effort exceeded their expectations, as the bands are cited as must-haves for beauty industry vets and style-obsessed teens alike.

But being an it-accessory is not the goal of Matson or Goldmark. "From the beginning of emi-jay we knew we wanted to give back to the community," explains Goldmark. "We've worked with several different organizations; Operation Smile, Step Up Women's Network, and Susan G. Komen for the Cure, amongst others. It's a major part of the business and something close to our hearts." Talk about banding together!

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M indfulness

Steps to Reduce Stress through Meditation and being “Mindful”.

by Koret Munguldar

As college students, we are constantly burdened with responsibilities that extend beyond school. Especially at NYU, city life can, and will, challenge our limits. Our mind is constantly trying to be productive. We often neglect physical or mental illnesses that impede our paths as we simply do not want to “waste” time with healing.

Luckily, there are simple techniques to relieve stress practice is being mindful. Jon Kabat-Zinn, Professor of Medicine Emeritus, has integrated the Buddhist meditation techniques with Western Science, healing patients suffering from psychologicaldisorders to chronic diseases in the Stress Reduction Clinic and the Center for Mindfulness in Medicine at the University of Massachusetts Medical Center. The stress reduction program is also offered at various hospitals across nation. However, you do not need to join his eight-week

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program to heal, the good thing about mindfulness is you can practice it by yourself. the moment. It is a moment-to-moment awareness.

Many of us can mistakenly understand this as living for the moment. But this is different than a hedonistic approach; it is more about living in the moment and recognizing the good and the bad of the moment fully.

In our modern world there are many responsibilities ulants. Accepting them as richness rather than turmoil will help us becoming more grounded. For example, imagine yourself as a leaf, and you are just going from one responsibility to another in the city. You experience Eventually, your entire to-do list on your agenda adds up into a stress.

From an evolutionary perspective, our nerve system is divided into two: sympathetic and parasympathetic. When our body detects danger the sympathetic nervous system becomes active to produce

moment, so that your sympathetic nervous system is not constantly active making you tense but instead your body can actually heal. Main element in this practice is learning to not escape from pain. It is about getting touch with the sickness.

If problems are not touched they usually end up growing in secret.

With practice you learn to train you body to heal and get over the pain. It is about connecting with the mental or physiological source of stress without getting stuck in

of the moment you wake up and realize you are late for an exam: at the moment your body experiences this high activation. However, in modern city life, our body cannot sympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for calming Many responsibilities the body, hormones and heartbeats after astressful reflect themselves situation. Simply because as stress stimulants. we have another responsibilAccepting them as ity waiting for us to tackle at richness rather than the next block! turmoil will help us There is, indeed, great evidence showing that our in becoming more infections, kill cancer cells, heal though homeostasis, and repair itself. When we get sick, whether it be with something serious or simple healing mechanism cannot function under stress.

Practicing mindfulness, teaches your body to remain aware even in very stressful

grounded.

people realize that they give more grounded decision when things do not go under their control.

With time, you will realize that in your daily life you will be able to be more peaceful and awake. Your body will learn heal during day by activating your parasympathetic nervous system. Personally, I feel that I developed my psychological distance through practice: during stressful moments I take deep breaths and observe my stress surprisingly I easily see the resolution. Then instead of panicking or getting depressed about the situation, through recognition of my feelings from outside as if I am my own psychologist, I feel at ease and more grounded to give better decision to solve the problem.

If you want to learn more about the techniques you can read Kabat-Zinnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manual book Full Catastrophe Living.

Thoughts Without a Thinker is also a great life-changing book explaining mindfulness from more of Buddhist approach.

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Simple steps for daily meditation: Dr. Jon Kabat-Zinn suggests morning hours to meditate, also providing some tips

Step One Finding a Calm Place.

Step Two Observing the deep breath and the monkey mind (jumps from thought to thought).

Full Catastrophe Living written by Dr. Jon Kabat-Zinn featured even more techniques on a more mindful living.

Step Three Not judging the thoughts and not expecting any outcome from the meditation. Do not criticize yourself. If you are practicing your own rhythm.

Step Four Staying awake to discover new places within you.

Step Five Practicing daily, not just when you feel like it but rather making it your discipline.

Thoughts Without a Thinker is another great read for those who are interested in buddhist meditation.

S 1.

2.

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o u r c e s : â&#x20AC;&#x153;Meditation As A Self-Healing Tool.â&#x20AC;?

LissaRankin MD. N.p., n.d. Web. 27 Oct. 2013.

Kabat-Zinn, Jon. Full Catastrophe Living: Using the Wisdom of Your Body and Mind to Face Stress, Pain, and Illness. New York: Dell, 1991. Print.

If you loose control, again by listening to

try focusing your breath.

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De-stressing in College

by Natasha Van Duser

N

o one likes being stressed out, especially when you’re in college. And when you are majorly stressing, it feels like everyone picks up on it immediately. Whether you end up pulling an all-nighter in Bobst library, going to class in your pajamas (and occasionally with yesterday’s make-up still on), or becoming best friends with delivery.com because you just don’t have enough time to get everything done in one weekend, there just seems to be no light at

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tunnel. Trust me, I’ve been there.

China Star deliveryman and every coffee barista within a 12 block radius of Bobst. But I’m also here to tell you that there is a way to survive without the world seeing your embarrassing pajama pants There are thousands of things you can do that will actually help you to de-stress and still give you time to get everything you need done without having your work load thing I have to say is don’t obliterate yourself over assignments and work, its just school. It is not the

end of the world. That being said, work is all about your mood, so make sure you are in the best possible mood to sit down and get everything done. What is my number one cure for all situations? Music.

Music has an epic ability to change your mood by just creating a new vibe in your atmosphere. I always that sounds like it was recorded on a tropical island or that releases my inner hippie. I suggest bands like Rebelution, Sublime, Fat Freddy’s Drop, 311, or even MOD SUN. Put all of that on a playlist and go tice problems in a much happier, laid back mood. Music is a magic

medicine that no one is allergic to.

Another tip, take breaks constantly.

Don’t overwhelm yourself with all-nighters with 8 hours of constant work. 30 minute 90s throwback jams with your roommate can make even the most boringly stressed out night of your life so much better. And besides, we all know that everyone knows the words to all of the *Nsync, Backstreet Boys, and Britney Spears songs, so you really have no excuse not to have a 90s moment. I once spent a night studying my ass off with my roommate. We called it “Sad Bitch Saturday” and decided that if our to our apartment, we would make the most of it. We jammed to Vanessa Carlton’s “1000 Miles,” anything Avril Lavigne ever wrote, Jesse McCartney, and even some Nickelback (as bad as that is) and had so much fun. If you’re going to stay in on a Saturday, at least embrace your inner dorkiness. room.

Make sure the world still

three major things help me to keep cool when I have a ton of work to do. First, always make time to go to the gym or yoga. Working out can let out a lot of pent up aggression or stress through aerobics and weight lifting, it also gives you time to listen to anything you’ve been craving to blast, but couldn’t because of all the papers you had to read. Yoga and meditation are also very helpful. They are totally productive to tuning into yourself and keeping you calm. Yoga to the People is a great place to go because it’s solely on a donation basis, and if you’re really short on cash it is only 2 bucks for a mat. One of my best friends dragged me there about a year ago, and it changed my life. The amount of attention you have to pay to what poses you are doing completely blocks out all of the worrying caused by stress and

course assignments. That and you can build some awesome toned legs great thing to do is to get a pedicure.

Foot massages, cute colors for your nails, and the ability to start some of your readings while you are getting your nails done can kill two birds with one stone. Besides, getting a pedicure is much more promising than getting a manicure or your hair done. People tend to make bad, drastic styling decisions when they are stressed, so experimenting with a new color on your toes is better than a light grey or yellow-green on sudden bob or pink hair you might go for when spontaneously get your hair done. Third, study with tea.

Go out to a teashop in your neighborhood and study there. It will get you out of your room and it will be way more relaxing than anything from Starbucks. The caffeine from tea will boost you but not kill you like coffee or 5-Hour Energy, and tea can also be especially calming. I suggest Argo Tea or Press Tea, both have excellent menus and aren’t too pricey. Plus, the environment of both totally rocks. to be most important. And that would be to make sure that you go out at least one night a week. Don’t kid yourself into thinking that you don’t have time to go out. Just think will be tempted to take. Add each episode of Gossip Girl or American Horror Story up and that’s about a 4-hour Saturday night spree you can go on. It’s okay to take a break, just be smart and don’t go too hard, or you will be out of the game for the rest of the weekend.

Nothing good comes from that, however a lot of good comes from spending time with your friends.

Whether you are going party hopping, to a local show, or just chilling in someone’s apartment, it does a lot of good to just step away

from your tight-scheduled to-do list. In fact, I can’t work productively at all if I haven’t taken a step back to do something completely social and completely for me.

just remember you can always try to have fun with it. I’m probably one of the biggest South Park fans out there (their political and social commentaries are genius), so when one of my professors decided he wanted to assign a poetry project, I wrote mine through the lens of the Goth Kids from South Park. I didn’t have the time or patience to sit down and come up with something that I thought would come from the academic standpoint he was looking for.. So I took a chance and said, “To hell with it! I’m going to write what I want.” I had so much fun writing the poem and the accompanying analysis that I probably got it done in half the time I normally would have. After turning it in, expecting my professor to think I was mocking his class, I prepared for the worst. When it was returned with a 95% and a direct quote from the episode I referenced next to my grade, I don’t think I could have been any happier.

So just remember you always have more time than you think you do, you don’t need to overwork yourself for that “A,” and you are the one creating your own vibe. College is fun, just because you have a laundry list of things you have to do does not mean that you can’t have some time for yourself. Step back, take time and if you end up wearing those garden gnome pajama pants to class because you woke up too late after your 3 hours of sleep, then rock those pants like they are the newest fashion statement out there. Own it. And remember: don’t let your stress levels own you.

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VisitThreeJaneNY.com for more Details.

Photography by Leah Roth

Art and Fashion Why it Doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Really Matter

by Vanessa Castro 68 | EMBODIED

Sonia Rykiel Fall 2013 campaign Source: Trendland.com

A

sk any esteemed designer, from Miuccia Prada to Rei Kawakubo, whether fashion is an art and they will tell you, “No.” Albeit, this a disappointing response to get from the same designers that manage to convince us that fashion is much more than a business. Fashionlovers will shake off these words and continue framing the pictures from the most recent Comme des Garçons campaign. Why do so many people continue to see fashion as a pure mode of selfexpression and appreciation of design, as if it is something more than a practical commodity?

Are we being manipulated to see fashion as art so we will cash in on a Margiela ostrich egg and justify it by the art and fashion of it? The questions are endless and surely, we into this confusing relationship. As an avid follower of fashion and a self-proclaimed art history nerd, I can’t help but question these connections.

According to Fashionista.com, Vogue’s September 2013 Issue had 665 pages of advertisements, which is 200 more pages than any other magazine. I want to say that the content of the publication should override any amount of advertising, but have you seen these fashion advertising campaigns? Some of them look like they could be editorials. One that stands out in particular is the Sonia Rykiel Fall 2013 campaign. The monochrome red background evoked the masterpieces The color and form of the model’s French clothes

already imagined elements of this painting. It goes without saying that the campaign looked like it could referred to modernist period. Anyone that recognizes these modernist indicators surely fell in love with the advertisement and the brand. They might have even considered purchasing some of the garments from the campaign.

We accept that all forms of visual art are connected because they are all visual. We look at art pieces, watch videos, and scavenge for that perfect asymmetrical sweater, all because we want something nice to look at. One cannot deny, however, that symbols and codes are embedded into what we see. Whether we like it or not, we view someone wearing Rick Owens clothing differently than we view someone wearing Brandy Melville. While the artworks from the modernist era have become possibly the most popular pieces at any

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museum (I have a distinct memory of a girl taking a Starry Night at the MoMA ingrained in my brain), it takes a particular amount of educational, cultural and, sometimes, capital, background to recognize the aesthetics of Rykiel’s campaign.

Thus, the campaign will only resonate with certain audiences. Although this campaign was a creative and well-made ode to the masterpieces of the 20th century, the brand was doing what they came to do in audience. In this case, their target audience is the welleducated, Eurocentric woman with enough money to purchase a $900 coat. To some, this might demystify the undeniable reciprocity between art and fashion because it might as well be a soul-less marketing tactic.

Although no one wants the mythology of their favorite brands to be shattered, we have to be reminded that these designer-artist collaborations, like Murakami and Louis Vuitton trailing back to Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, are all marketing tools to legitimize their brands to their potential customers exhibitions showing up even more frequently at established museums. These museums ask viewers to look at garments in their historical and cultural context, outside of the commercial market.

For a few hours we are convinced that the world is capable of viewing fashion the same way we observe a painting.

The difference is, however, that you can walk into the gift shop and tangibly afford a piece by the designer the museum is featuring. Call me a pessimist, but the chances of most people being able to purchase an authentic piece of art by your favorite artist are slim to none (simply because of art’s exclusivity and mind-blowing prices). One could argue, however, that buying Chanel ready-to-wear, as opposed to couture, equates buying a post card or a print of Monet’s Water Lilies.

So where does this leave us? Honestly, I’d like to go about this situation the same way I go about looking at Duchamp’s urinal or a Malevitch square. Art objects (although museums have helped legitimize fashion as an important element of our cultural history,) but by each individual. As long as you have the critical eye to identify the products that actually say something, like the deconstructive and subversive designs of Yohji Yamamoto or Ann Demuelemeester, as opposed to trend chasers and crowd pleasers, then it is alright to fall in love with a piece of cashmere. We’d like to think that the art world is above the commercial world of fashion, but the art institution has its own elitist mindset that rivals any clever gfashionmarketing tactic.

Whether or not one educational value in these garments doesn’t really matter because, despite the upcoming cliché, it truly is subjective.

Marie Therese Walter by Pablo Picasso

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Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No Place for Girls on the Internet

by Alice Hindanov

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H

ave you been following the Rules of the Internet?

Providing pictoral evidence for every claim you make? Lurking more than posting? Not sure what this is all about? I’m referencing a famous collection of observations about internet society that emerged in 2006 from the dark recesses of /b/, the notoriously twisted randomtopic messaging board of 4chan. net. The rules, like everything else that comes from 4chan, are a hilarious joke. But nonetheless, they offer us an interesting glimpse into how jaded, narcissistic millennials who are more familiar with Shibe Doge than Dickens view themselves.

You may be familiar with the too-true Rule 34: if it exists, there is porn of it. I encourage you to test this by Googling “Rule 34 Transformers” and turning off SafeSearch, or looking for Jesus/

understand the true nature of the digital world. Not only does this mean that we still live in Judith Butler’s “culture in which the false universal of “man” is “coextensive with humanness itself,” but also that women are valued by their breasts . If we’re to believe that if she doesn’t have breasts, she isn’t a woman, we erase the existence trans* women, non-binary genders, and survivors of breast cancer.

More dangerously, placing the burden of proof on the woman creates a digital space where she is only allowed to exist as the kind of approval-hungry, intensely shamed slut that would show her breasts on a public messaging board.

There’s no better example of this type of girl than Scumbag Stacy. According to Know Your Meme, the popular image originated on January 26th, 2011, from a HottestGirlsOnCampus blog post titled “North Carolina Hat Girl”. The woman pictured is Amber Stratton, winner of CollegeHumor’s 2007 “Hottest Girls on Campus” contest. Stratton

every male character there exists a female version of that character, and vice versa – also brings up some interesting results. It’s rules 30 and 31, however, that are particularly deep:

so we won’t publish the legions of “fap fodder” photos and disrespectful discussions about them that have accrued across the internet. Rest assured, however,

Rule 30: There are no girls on the internet Rule 31: Tits or GTFO

that they exist, and even though the original reddit thread is aware of how misogynist the meme can get, the rest are a heartbreaking, stomach-churning read.

As a netizen and dedicated explorer of the great ol’ blag’o’blag, I encounter Stacy and her family of advice animals more often than I do some of my friends afk (that’s away from keyboard for the unenlightened).

The particular image that threw me into a writing frenzy was posted to the highly popular and equally highly disdained website 9Gag. com, where users contribute images of fun. Users consist mostly of selfdescribed “nerdy” or “geeky” “nice guys” who are primarily interested in video games and girls. Since girls don’t just appear like trophies in the course of gameplay, can’t be won by completing missions or unlocked like achievements, humorous rage comics about the friendzone, masturbation, and the unfairness of being “forever alone”. Desensitized as I am to the internet’s many frightening faces, I was shocked when this particular iteration of the Scumbag Stacy meme upset me. After all, if this is Scumbag behavior, then I am Stacy through and through.

Stacy is the broke mother of three dirty

Sources of the “rules”.

These rules reads awfully like a “boys only” note pinned to the outside of a treehouse. Certainly the democratic internet just can’t be a boys’ club like all the other boys’ clubs before it! Technology frontier of freedom. How can sexism even exist in the realm of the anonymous user? And yet the lurking /b/tards, self-aware originators of internet culture,

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brats who buys Jimmy Choos instead of cereal, cheats on a loving husband while he’s serving overseas, demands a divorce and keeps the house and cars. Unlike her male counterpart Scumbag Steve, Stacy’s crimes always involve heterosexual, cisgender relationships, motherhood, or sexual choices. While many of them are truly repulsive, a disturbing amount of Stacy memes describe behavior that doesn’t seem scumbag at all: keeping in touch with someone even though she isn’t sexually interested in them, accepting a drink or a date but not a kiss, wearing yoga pants and being upset when men catcall, not being “in the mood” at the right time. In fact, Scumbag Stacy’s most grievous crime seems to be that she exists but doesn’t want to suck your dick.

According to Stacy and Rules 30 and 31, the internet, and by extension, our society, still views women as vending machines with vaginas and breasts that men should be able to put “nice guy” coins into until sex comes out. Sincere, unconditional politeness has evaporated from our culture. What’s more, the “me” generation thinks we’re so goddamn special that our politeness is the best and only politeness that anyone has ever experienced. Women are still pummeled by pressure to be quiet, polite, palatable and “don’t you dare get all strong and independent and forget that your life will be inevitably be interrupted by children,” all this on pain of dying disliked and alone.

Meanwhile, there are not-sosmall legions of boys posting these passive-aggressive Stacy memes as if being polite makes them special. As if

their interest in Stacy is special.

As if it’s their approval that lets her know that she’s hot stuff. As if they’re entitled to a cookie for being nice. This is the same sense of entitlement that makes it OK to invade a woman’s already skintight personal space, to call out, ask questions, and worst of all, expect and demand her attention.

Some kid, a kid, was sitting on the steps of the place I work, blocking the way with his homies. As I went to push past them, he called out that I got some nice eyes. I am wise enough to know that I’m better off ignoring this. Yes, comments about my eyes don’t make me feel as unsafe as comments about my breasts, but said in that tone of voice it’s still obvious what he’d like to do a girl with these eyes, and that’s not a compliment. I just got out of four hours of class and

“And because I’m a woman, I said thank you.”

ahead of me. I don’t want to deal with his thoughts. But that’s how life as a woman works, and usually speaking and go off, especially in the City. But this schmuck has the gall to raise his voice as I step past his group of friends and snap at me in a suddenly threatening, i-dareyou-not-to-respond voice: “HEY. I SAID YOU HAVE NICE EYES.” And because I’m a woman, I said thank you. Small and timid.

Because the worst effect of entitlement is that it causes women to feel like the scumbag when their only crime is not needing or wanting men. It makes safe spaces feel anything but safe. It turns the internet into a twisted New York street where I don’t exist unless I show the world my boobies, I’m a slut if I choose to do so, and get turned into a scumbag meme if I don’t.

And though I’m so frustrated and angry about the inevitable death of my career at the hands of homemaking, the inexplicable guilt I feel about dreaming of a life of solitude, I also feel profoundly sad that we raise our sons to feel so entitled. And while Stacy certainly reinforces the perpetual sexism we just can’t seem to escape, I think her more powerful statement lies in revealing that problematic thinking isn’t limited to rapists or sexists or misogynists. Stacy lets the hard-working family men, the engineers, the quiet good boys, the occupants of their parents’ basement express symptomatic frustration and confusion about male-female relationships. Their words, in turn, paint a stunningly sad picture of just how deep the gender trouble goes.

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Art by Cynthia Segal

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Process

By Kenzi Abou Sabe

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“I

didn’t know where you were going with that, but you actually look nice. For a while there I was getting a bit worried about the

taking.” I grabbed my bag, shoved my phone into it and followed her out the door, replying with a raise of the eyebrow and a muttered “Thanks. I always love to hear the amount of faith you have in my stylistic capabilities.”

I suppose my friend’s alarm when she realized had been wearing it since the night before. That’s not to say that I regret my decision to leave home in it.

I’m not apologetic for thinking that a trip to Starbucks zone behind that cotton. Maybe I also relished in bag lady to reasonably fashion conscious citizen of the street. A cardigan here and an old watch there. A pair of riding boots and a scarf, and suddenly I was a little less side street hobo, and a lot more high street stylite. in 24 hours, and I’ve got a pen behind my ear and a discouragingly cold coffee in hand. Mondays are study days in my world and yes, it’s quite possible that the buttons on my shirt are attached to mismatched partners.

No matter how slovenly my appearance may be when I’m locked away behind a laptop, not expecting visitors, my mind, like all minds, is still constantly moving: building, birthing, experimenting, imagining. As I layered and contemplated, unlayered and reworked, zippered and accessorized, I racked the simulated closet in my brain and built something from scratch that was both original and aesthetically pleasing to the only person that mattered, me.

The prevailing notion today is that all people

a natural variant in humans’ aesthetic desires that A few years ago, Isaac Mizrahi, a prominent women’s wear designer, gave a TED talk about his own design process. He attributed his sense of style in equal parts to interesting things he sees in the world, and to the natural whimsy of his mind. A source of inspiration he couldn’t quite put into words. Needless to say, it wasn’t encouraging to know that a successful designer couldn’t shed any more light on why he’s attracted to a certain combination of texture, line, and color than I could have done getting dressed that afternoon. seeking from his talk, but rather his focus on the idea that inherent taste isn’t derived from clear sources.

Soon after I discovered the TED talk, I witnessed a manifestation of personal taste on a huge scale, visiting the Tate Modern museum. Amid one of the world’s greatest collections of modern art, what struck me wasn’t the artwork, but the people. In a museum full of trained art historians, tourists, and students, each could look at the same piece of artwork and have a completely unique, visceral reaction to the exact same material.

I sat for a period in the corner of the “Surrealism and Beyond” room in the Poetry and Dreams gallery. The room has a staggering sixty pieces of art that range from Pablo Picasso’s “Bust of a Woman” to Alexander Calder’s famously simple “Mobile.” To say the space is overwhelming is a gracious understatement, but nearly without exception, each visitor walked in, took a moment to step back and scan the room, and then settled on the

norms, yet when you place different people in a paintings and observers, each person gravitates to a particular piece of art that

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innately draws their attention? As with clothing, no two individuals are consistently attracted to the same things. There has to be something, some section of the human mind, that grabs and holds that attention, and another scoff.

Avant-garde designer Alexander McQueen once said of his design intent, “I think there is beauty in everything. What ‘normal’ people would perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it.”

You’d think a society ought to mold its constituents in similar ways and yet each human being relates to fashion on a singular, personal level that has absolutely nothing to do with conscious choice.

McQueen found beauty in the socially “ugly,” and was considered a master creator and artist for it. How, then, can we feign to reduce the personal aesthetic solely to the individual, unless society’s interaction In the early 20th century, a sociologist named Georg Simmel published what is still the most substantial study of fashion theory to date, entitled “On Individuality and Social Forms”. He realized between individuality and social conformity. The study depicts a world in which humans are wrought with two major desires: the desire to imitate their peers, and the desire to distinguish themselves from the masses.

Imitation lends itself to the human desire to feel protected by the security of being a part of a larger whole. This tendency is then constantly at war with the human need for “relief from generality”, in other words, our yearning to feel special and different. So no matter how much I maintain that

appropriate.

If this is true, and my creation was simply an innovation rather than an invention, then there’s something socially ingrained in me that tells me it’s lesser. Popular opinion makes us feel that if something isn’t totally original, it is inherently less of an accomplishment.

Creation is reactive whether we’d like to think so or not. No matter how unique an idea, Simmel can show us that any example of individual thought is also rooted in imitation. Our creations are remixes of the past and of our experiences, colored with the inklings of our own imaginations. That doesn’t mean that we don’t each form our own style, it just means that we are humans; we live, we experience, and those instances affect us, as they should.

The other day I read Keats’s theory of “Negative Capability”. Keats believed that there was beauty in the process of things. He argued that growth, development, and inspiration all come from struggling with what we can’t explain. Keats thought that we gain more intellectually from questioning than we do from naming.

As I layer and contemplate, unlayer and rework, zipper and accessorize, it occurrs to me that maybe this is the point. I could try and describe what drives my individuality. Label my

“I think there is beauty in everything.

What ‘normal’ people would perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it.”

- Alexander McQueen

mental boxes, and attempt to give a name to what most people do without much thought, but I’d probably lose some of the beauty in the process.

Personal style is more interesting if we don’t break it down and try to understand

came into the mix.

Ideas arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t something we turn off. Inspiration certainly canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be told to hold off, shelved for a later date. If colors and images, the clutter of a closet, or a passerby on the sidewalk can catalyze a stream of thoughts that eventually take shape in the niche to be molded into something of my own? Well, not completely my own. That evocative image and that particularly stylish passerby were just as much a part of any less personal.

If I listened to Keats and tried to not name what drives aesthetic nuances between people, I could only explain it visually.

The way I see it, a mind is like a closet; like an awesome, futuristic closet, rotating pieces and comparing matches with inordinate speed. A upon something that makes the thinker happy.

Hopefully, as with all art, it makes other people happy as well.

How and why I came to the conclusion that that it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a process I undertook alone, and I know that it was in some way both reactionary and individual.

Getting dressed in the morning, the simple originality. At least in our society, the only guidelines that matter are the ones we establish ourselves.

Art by Cynthia Segal

Pump Your Breaks calling “Green the new Black”

By Dominique Drakeford

A

s a nation we lust for money, and then have foreplay with material goods, just to have sex with the idea that we’re in love with life.

Men marvel at silhouettes of the feminine that are outlined to resemble bottles of Coca Cola; while woman drool puddles of shameless juices the misguided yearning for dead presidents create a folded molestation.

This sexually artistic metaphor describes nothing other than our beloved fashion industry.

Our approach to life is supposed to have a strong

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commitment to value, morals and ethics, but whether you are aware of it or not, or even willing to admit it, our culture has an obsession with materiality measured by MONEY! The fashion industry, known as one of the most money driven industries, has become an industrial production process that has encouraged and enabled values of fashion overon society is immense, as well as its effect on the environment. Our current agenda of “fast fashion” by retailers such as Forever 21, Zara, and H&M, leaves a massive ecological footprint. Each step of the clothing life cycle generates environmental and occupational hazards. It is responsible for enormous amounts of CO2 and greenhouse gas emissions, which contribute to climate change. And shockingly,

this industry uses more water than any other apart from agriculture, and discharges massive quantities of toxic chemicals into the environment. Every level of the value chain system from pesticide use on cotton to consumer wear and tear, plays a huge role in the

“hot” on the market. So of course being immersed in the fashion world, I hear “green is the new black”. As a result, sustainable and eco friendly marketing tactics

being the new black, everyone wants to try the latest face cream with “natural” ingredients or that H&M dress made from organic cotton. Marketers are using and inexplicable working conditions- The Bangladesh this opportunity to sell “eco-friendly” products and disguising it as a genuine concern. tragedy is a recent example of this system and its Take a moment to think about what we are saying affect on people, which was only brought to light due to exposure from the media. Our approach to design, when we scream that green in the new black. The essence of fashion fuels the momentum for change. sourcing, manufacturing and consuming clothing Therefore fashion and its marketing messages will has been this way because productivity supersedes adapt to the changes of industry preferences. The idea of “green” and sustainable fashion needs not to Having recently received a Masters degree in be a trend- something that is “so last season”. Calling Sustainable Entrepreneurship and Fashion from NYU, there are countless pages I could write on how people with a short-lived popularity. Green should the links between over-consumption and identity become the new invisible as it will naturally become formation of communities can and should be apart of the industries ethos in production and consumption, and our cultural identity. At the end of the fashion industry.

My intent is pretty simple- aside from using fun So lets pump our breaks on calling green the new sexual innuendos to lure you into a fashion industry bashing debate; black and simply call green the new invisible.

I want to present a new spin on But what does green being the new invisible look an old concept. In today’s trend like for the average consumer? driven industry, we hear the term “____________ is the new black” How can we strive to acquire a deeper to keep everyone abreast of what’s understanding of our consumptive roles and what our future responsibilities should be to sustain our planet and our well-being?

The clothing sector’s sustainability challenges have strategically been due to business strategies, such as “Fast Fashion”, that have sparked continuous change. On top of that consumers consume fashion to identify with particular brand communities and are deeply immersed in their endless “games” of symbolic status competition. As a Western society we build our identities primarily on what we consume.

Therefore, there is this tremendous lack of awareness and transparency of the implications of their fashion products in relation to ecological sustainability.

Arguably sustainable lifestyles & consumption

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be achieved by focusing on strategies to close the gap between production and consumption at a larger structural level… And so on so forth.

However, the real struggle is that WE LACK CONNECTION! When I say “we” I mean everyone- the consumer, the manufacturer, the advertising woman, the sales man… everyone as a collective. Calling “green the new black” everything we do has an impact on other people, the environment, and ourselves. It subsequently does just the opposite.

It is understood that shopping for clothes are a dominant mode of social interaction & primary way for people to participate in social & public life. I believe that we can acquire (despite ambiguities in socio-economic status) the necessary cultural capital and knowledge to act as “ecologically oriented consumers” and thus function as powerful positive market force in the pursuit of sustainability. I believe that a key in the equation is making this idea of “community” a central part of life again to regain this connection. Community of course is a complex social phenomenon and people subscribe to many communities at once and engage in overlapping

activities that constitute modern life and I would never want to change that.

However, the message I’m sending is that communities can provide a platform of meaning, and fashion as a medium or tool, can communicate the importance of sustainability. A strategy to promote sustainability has to focus on the prominence of local participation and control over the way in which people live and work.

We live in very volatile times and there is compelling evidence that we need to slow our fashion production and consumption down. Sustainability is of course a global and local challenge and there is no one solution. Consequently, I believe that many things need to happen, and reconnecting at a community level is one of them. But running around town calling “Green the new black” for damn is a solution unless it’s a trend that’s here to stay!

A NOTE from the author:

less, communities potentially have the ability to form conscious ‘consumers’ and a participatory culture of social and environmental value.

Don’t get me wrong, fashion is great and I like to

If reading this made you think that I was a tree hugging hippie who only wears Birkenstock sandals, tree bark cologne, and burlap sack dresses …. Then think again! Because I’m environmentally and socially conscious DOES NOT mean that my sense of style goes out the window.

in a new pair of boots! The practice of consuming fashion is inextricably linked with many of the

other. Please continue to do research because the future is in our hands!

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The “Exotic” in Fashion Photography:

Photoshop by Henry Clarke for Vogue UK Source: thefashionspot.com

Aspirational Art A Step Ahead of Reality

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F

ashion photography has survived since its conception in 19th century France through today in American Vogue with increasing exposure

everyday lives. What about fashion photography grasps our attention and directs our desires? In economics, the concept of the “aspirational product” refers to a product roughly 30 to 60 percent of its target customer base cannot purchase due to expense or accessibility (think waitlist to buy a Birkin bag a la Sex and the City’s Samantha Jones). Why market to people who aren’t going to buy? Within a capitalistic society, those people attach their hopes of moving up socially and economically with products that represent that higher class. They may be more motivated buyers in the future, and at least in the present that larger inaccessible desire increases the desire of the limited actual consumer base. Fashion photography has developed into a showing of soon-to-be-available aspirational products, (luxe clothing and accessories), but more than just advertising, fashion photography uses artistic sensibility to sell an aspirational life. It is, (if you don’t mind me coining), an “aspirational art.”

There is not a large body of critical writings on the subject of fashion photography, so the beginning is not on my ex-art history major tool belt, I excavated Adolphe Braun’s 1856 collection of the Countess di Castiglione, which I would argue marked the beginning of appealing to the common viewer by exposing a strikingly foreign costume and lifestyle using photography.

The courtly glamour of the Countess was captured to reveal the alternate culture of the Napoleon elite to the public, but also to underscore class distinctions that created separate worlds. This was the most intimate view of the Countess most proletariats and bourgeoisies would ever see, in effect revealing the opulent inside’s circle, while simultaneously visually

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reinforcing the difference between the insiders and outsiders.

The French began lusting after Eastern fashions such as harem pants when Edward Steichen’s photograph of fashion designer Paul Poiret’s collection appeared in the April 1911 issue of Art et Decoration. Some essayists the birth of modern fashion photography. It is Steichen’s spread to the foreignness of place Photoshop by Henry Clarke for Vogue UK Source: thefashionspot.com

Poiret drew from.

However, the photography from Adolph Braun to Poiret and beyond does not hinge on place alone. Rather, the exoticism of fashion photography depends on glamorous, alien conceptualization that can take the form of location as with Steichen, societal class as with Braun, or even gender. As Diana Crane cites in her essay “Fashion, Democracy and Social Control,” Coco Chanel’s play with menswear, such as the iconic skirt suit perhaps best embraced by Jackie Kennedy, is an effective gender bender that was certainly “exotic” in its day.

Fashion photography is best understood as aspirational art when the evolving forms of exoticism are examined as its driving force. Advertisement and magazine spreads characterize most fashion photography today, distancing the viewer from the subject through exotic elements, but paradoxically also aiming to sell. If not aiming to formally sell fashion products, they aim to sell an idea: the concept of the photo is appealingly exotic, but through the aspiring of purchasing the featured fashion the observer might engage in the exotic. However, fashion’s self-advertised role as a vehicle to exotic worlds directly contributes to its unsustainability. As Lipovetsky asserts in “Fashion

As all cultural barriers break down, fashion photography frontier, the last exotic place we can never quite reach: the past. Evidenced by the 1950s repurposed peplum trend advertised and popularized in the last year, such s in the March 2012 issues of Elle and Vogue, and the four time Emmy award-winning hit drama Mad Men, we have begun to look at the past as the ultimate place we can never go, only glimpse through the pages of a magazine.

and the West,” fashion is founded on the lust for change and novelty. Once the exotic becomes accessible it is no longer desirable. For example, America’s history of politically involving itself in other countries, (made possible because of newfound economic power in the photography to concentrate on foreign locations through the lens of the economically and politically comfortable American, (as can be theorized from Elizabeth Ault’s The 1968 Project: A Nation Coming of Age). After World War II, this was a new, exotic vantage point. The jet setter had taken off.

Time, through technological and cultural development has once again exhausted travel as an exclusive form of exoticism. The U.S. is now 1 of 18 countries that support their own Vogue. Globalization has changed the game, because not only American fashion photographers have the power to glamorize foreign locations. The Internet has allowed anyone access to the whole world’s cultures. How will fashion photography survive if the once exotic has become the everyday? A new exoticism must be found, perhaps invented. Currently, American culture has determined that cultural time capsules will be the exotic desire.

Sources Braun, Adolphe, Images and Enterprise: the photographs of Adolphe Braun, ed.

Maureen C. O’Brian and Mary Bergstein (Providence: Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, 2000).

Brian (INT) Horrigan and Brad Zellar, The 1968 Project: A Nation Coming of Age, ed.

Elizabeth Ault (St. Paul, MN: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2011).

Crane, Diana, Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing (Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 2000).

Harold, Koda, Poiret (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2007).

Lipovetsky, Gilles, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1994).

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