2014 River Hills Traveler Float Trip Guide

Your Guide to Outfitters & Summer Fun

Ozarks Float Trippin’ FREE

MAPS • STORIES • PHOTOS FROM THESE MISSOURI STREAMS • Big • Big Piney • Black

• Current • Huzzah & • Eleven Point Courtois • Elk • Jacks Fork • Gasconade • James

• Meramec • Niangua • North Fork • St. Francis

PLUS Arkansas’ BUFFALO RIVER

SWING INTO SUMMER!

River Hills

Traveler JUNE 1, 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

2

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

Thunderbird Lodge at Washington State Park CEDAR

BIG

HILL

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21 Washington State Park

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POTOSI

e Big Riv

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Location: St. Francois, Washington, Jefferson counties Floatable Length: 83.2 miles Difficulty: I Key Features: Upper Big River rises in Missouri’s Lead Belt and has a few water quality issues. Flows through St. Francois and Washington State Parks. Lower section in Jefferson County has many old mill sites, some have to be portaged.

Recommended Outfitter: Cherokee Landing, cherokeelanding.com; Thunderbird Lodge at Washington State Park, MissouriParkAdventures.com

BB

Big River Marine

47

21

JUNE 2014

FESTUS

110 DESOTO 67

I-55

Cherokee Landing

BONNE TERRE

★

St. Francois State Park

r ive iR

STE. GENEVIEVE

p sip sis Mis

miles from source to confluence with the Meramec River at Eureka. Efforts PARK HILLS C ver i R to clean up lead tailings in the region The Big Country F ARMINGTON 32 have helped to restore safe river 67 32 Store St. Joe N recreation along the stream.

D E Perry County Hawn St. Park CALEDONIA DD Lake n c a i r s The river forms a partial border F R St. Park Bismarck ive St. r T (Desalvo) of St. Francois State Park at the first 21 Lake 21 PERRYVILLE W floatable stretch six miles upstream Council from Bonne Terre. This section is best Bluff 32 OO Lake Ft. Davidson floated early. The 20-plus miles St. Historic Site Francois to Washington State Park is 51 Council Bluff I-55 Fredericktown 221 Taum Sauk largely limited to private access, with Lake Rec. Area City Lake N St. Park Johnson's LANDMARK — The iron Highway H only one outfitter in the stretch.

72 CC Shut-Ins bridge over the Big River is a familiar Trail of Tears This section of the river often State Park ARCADIA AA State Park landmark for floaters. Barbara Gibbs has the character of a large creek, VALLEY Taum Sauk Ostmann photo.

FREDERICKTOWN Lake sometimes blocked by debris, 72 bring67their own friends.

By 21-72-49 Jo Schaper sometimes moving in clear, sprightly LESTERVILLE Arcadia catch the river on a rain rise. Four old Bollinger in Iron on’t let the Big RiverSporting fool The Big rises near Belgrade E Meat Black fashion.

Smallmouth, largemouth and Mill St. Pk. 34 The mill sites are Jefferson County park Crane Pond you. Plenty of fun is found County, not too farMarket upstream from CAPE ArborLake Goods t spotted bass are common species, as Olympic river accesses publicly available for a S RT ZZ GIRARDEAU here, especially for those U.S. Forest Service’s CouncilUBluff Steak are channel catfish.

Check with the nominal fee per person or carload. who prefer solitude, or Recreation lake. The lake Glenallen 34HouseArea Missouri Health and Senior Services 51 Lake Cherokee Passfurnishes paddling K Girardeau before eating sunfish, Y opportunities for people Restaurant PP 8344 BERRY ROAD carp and suckers from unaccustomed to current.

BONNE TERRE Black 49 the Big River.

MISSOURI 63628 It passes into the red clay River Rats

The lower Big, from 573-358-2805 of the old Southeast Lead

Morse Mill to the District, near Park Hills,

Meramec, is much more Rent Canoes - Jon Boats - Rafts - Kayaks - Float Tubes where Flat River joins the

2-13 mile trips • Reservations required on weekdays • Group Rates heavily used than the parent stream.

RV Sites and Camping Trophy upper section. It’s also Locals fish and float the smallmouth Fishing Lake and Paddleboats • Guide Service flatter and deeper once fishing entire 145 winding miles, the Mineral Fork joins 1 hr. South ''' ##!%" " & $%" # ! C’mon contained in just 56 air of STL on ! $# $# ) ! # ) ( # ) % # down, the main stem, so expect FLOAT MISSOURI’S BEAUTIFUL UNCROWDED BIG RIVER Hwy. 21 today! $ $ '( ) !$! to paddle unless you Palmer Lake

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Big River: 145 compact miles, cleaned up from lead heyday

636-586-2995

www.cherokeelanding.com

ARCADIA IRONTON & PILOT KNOB

BLACK

AA

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dd

N East Fork

49

Glover

21

72

U

LESTERVILLE t Wes

Crane Lake

Fork

Bearcat

★Getaway

CENTERVILLE

49

Black

72 V

ANNAPOLIS

Jeff’s Canoe Rental River

T

eration purposes. The collapse of that upper reservoir in late 2005 devastated Johnson Shut-Ins State Park (now rebuilt) and murkified the Black River for several years, but things are now back to normal.

The Black is a good goggle-eye and smallmouth stream. Last time I fished it, I caught nothing of great size, but I stayed busy, getting hits that summer day on about every other cast.

Upper stretches of the Black are home to several shut-in formations, the most famous of which is Johnson Shut-Ins, a stretch of many pools and jumbled boulders much enjoyed by generations of Missourians and outContinued on next page

Taum Sauk Lake

49

21

Taum Sauk Mt. Mo's highest point

Ozark Trail

Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park

Crystal-clear Black River flows from Arcadia Valley to Arkansas

By Emery Styron he upper Black River’s reputation for crystal clarity is well-founded. The Black has the clearest water I’ve ever seen — or should I say “never seen.� It’s like looking through very clean glass.

Three forks form the Black, rising from the Taum Sauk Mountain area, southeast of Ironton and coming together near Lesterville in Reynolds County. You may remember that the East Fork of the Black is home to Ameren UE’s lower Taum Sauk Reservoir, from which water is pumped to an upper reservoir atop Proffitt Mountain for gravity-fed power gen-

Arcadia Sporting Goods

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Location: Reynolds, Wayne, Butler counties Floatable Length: 88 miles Difficulty: I to II Centerville to Lesterville gradient of 10 Key Features: First 41 miles above Clearwater Lake are swift Ozark stream; below Clearwater more meandering river. River drains Taum Sauk area, forms Johnson’s and other Shut-ins; below the lake, USFS has several campground accesses.

Recommended Merchants & Outfitters: Arcadia Sporting Goods, arcadiasportinggoodsinc.com, Bearcat Getaway, bearcatgetaway.com, Jeff’s Canoe Rental, jeffscanoerentals.com

★

72

O

Redford

K

★ Highway K Rec. Area camp, access

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to Sam Baker State Park

143 21

K Gads Hill: Jesse James First Train Robbery

CC

ELLINGTON Clearwater Lake

49 to Piedmont

OPEN 7 Days

Over 1900 Guns in stOck BUY • SELL • TRADE

One Quick Stop for all your Needs!

We Serve Hunt Bros. Pizza & Hand-Dipped Ice Cream

• GIFTS • GASOLINE • SNACK BAR

Your Local Hunting, Fishing & Camping Headquarters

573-546-7616 Jct. Hwy. 21 & 72 Arcadia MO

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

Float Black for fish or scenery

Continued from previous page seven- to eight-mile float that will take of-state tourists seeking a cooling dip. five and a half to six and a half hours The Black flows into Clearwater or longer, depending on river condiLake, which straddles the Reynoldstions and how much you play around Wayne County line. The Corps of En- — which is of course, the whole point gineer-run Highway K Campground of a float trip. between Annapolis and Ellington is Some outfitters also offer a five-mile popular with floaters. The gravel bar float. just north of the Highway K bridge General gradient for the Black is is equally 4.8 but it popular with runs as swimmers high as 11 and picnickand 16 on ers. the upper Our float reaches. that day You can was from also float Brawley to below Highway K, Clearwater the last takeDam, all out before the way the lake. to Poplar Upstream, Bluff or where the on into Arforks begin, kansas for IT DOESN’T GET ANY BETTER Clear water, plentiful fish that matyou can float in high and great scenery on the Black River appeal to outdoors ter. Things water from people of all ages. Nolan Brunnworth photo. flatten out the Highway consider21 bridge ably once above Centerville 8.4 miles to the you get to Bluff and begin to enter junction with the Middle Fork, which Missouri’s delta lands. can also be run only in high water.

Fishing aside, the Black is worth About a mile downstream, the East floating for the scenery. The water Fork joins incoming from Johnson ranges from gin-clear to deep green, Shut-Ins. In high water you could run and flows past granite bluffs and hilly the East Fork from Taum Sauk Creek forests of oak and hickory. The river to here. has an open feel, with plenty of conve Around Lesterville, there are numer- nient gravel bars, enough current to ous canoe outfitters who can service keep you moving and very little trash. you. A popular float is from West Fork If you haven’t floated the Black, put just above Lesterville to Smiley Face, it on your list for this summer. about a quarter-mile past Bearcat Getaway below Lesterville. That’s a

Lodging is now available for groups of 2-10. Call for rates and availability.

Jeff’s Canoe Rental

Fun on the Crystal Clear Black River Is Waiting for You!

www.jeffscanoerentals.com

If you’re looking for a country/rustic-chic wedding venue on Black River, it’s now available at Jeff’s Canoe Rentals, Inc.

Canoes and Rafts • General Store • Campground Nearby

Give Us a Call:

1-573-598-4555 Reserve Today!

Located At Hwy K Bridge

jeffscanoerentals@gmail.com

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RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

JUNE 2014

Arkansas’s Buffalo was country’s first National River

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To U.S. 62 and U.S. 65

YELLVILLE 65

7

43 PONCA WILDERNESS AREA Kyle’s Landing

Ozark

Hasty

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Li

BOXLEY

ST. JOE

Mt. Hersey Woolum

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Buffalo R

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21 UPPER BUFFALO WILDERNESS AREA

Buffalo Point

PINDALL

JASPER Riv

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Rush Landing

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WESTERN GROVE

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Erble

PONCA

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Buffalo Float Service

MARBLE FALLS

LOWER BUFFALO WILDERNESS AREA

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HARRISON

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To Mountain Home

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Tyler Bend

Maumee North Maumee South

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GILBERT SILVER HILL

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann issourians are blessed with many scenic rivers to float, but most paddlers enjoy variety and challenge. For that reason, many head south to the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas. With its towering limestone bluffs, the Buffalo is known for its breathtaking scenery.

The Buffalo was the nation’s first National River, established by the National Park Service in 1972. The park protects 135 miles of the 151mile river that flows from the Boston Mountains to its confluence with the White River.

For recreation purposes, the Buffalo is divided into three sections -- upper, middle and lower. Spring rains produce whitewater rapids in the challenging upper section. As the season progresses and the river level drops, the floating options move downstream.

The Buffalo is mostly rainfall dependent, so it’s a good idea to check with local outfitters for current conditions in the section you want to float or fish. Weekdays are best for fishermen and floaters who want to avoid crowds.

Park concessioners rent canoes,

65

14 MORNING STAR 27 MARSHALL

To Russellville & I-40

To Clarksville & I-40

65 To Conway & I -40

kayaks, rafts and johnboats and provide shuttle services. Several offer camping, cabins or other lodging.

Although floating and fishing are key attractions of the river park, there are plenty of other things to do.

Hiking is exceptional, with more than 100 miles of maintained trails leading to scenic bluffs and vistas along the river.

Hiking is especially popular from November through March. ce ervi S k Camping, hunting, l Par ona i t a backpacking and he N of t r e ion 870-449-2042 horseback riding also are cess n o C 1-877-350-6592 popular. zed hori t u www.buffaloriverfloatservice.com The restored elk A buffaloriverfloatservice@gmail.com herd near Ponca is one 11637 Ste. 1 Hwy. 14 South • Yellville, AR 72687 of the Buffalo’s major

Buffalo Location: Newton, Searcy, Marion and Baxter counties in Arkansas Floatable Length:150 miles; 135 mile National River floatable during most seasons Difficulty: Usually I below Ponca. Possibly II or more high flow. White River upstream takeout is a challenge.

Key Features: Buffalo River is unusual in that the entire river and much of the watershed has been protected since 1972. Upper reaches contain scenic high bluffs, green hills, and Hemmed-In Hollow, a 220-ft high single drop waterfall. Lower reaches of the river are open, but water is equally challenging with a number of rock shelf drops. Hunting and fishing permitted under AR regs. Park contains free-ranging elk herd.

Recommended Outfitter: Buffalo River Float Service, buffaloriverfloatservice.com

PLENTY TO DO Horseback riding, floating, fishing, camping and hiking are popular along the scenic Buffalo National River in northern Arkansas. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo. tourist draws, especially during farmers and the ruins of a mining October and November in Boxley district to its CCC legacy, the park Valley. Organized events include the captures the heritage of this section of Elk Festival in Jasper in June and the the Arkansas Ozarks.

Color Fest in Ponca in October.

Even today, it is, as described by the Two Arkansas state parks – NPS, “an island of time and space,” Buffalo Point and Lost Valley – a valley where turn-of-the-century were transferred to the National lifestyles and landscapes still exist.

Park Service and became part of In Boxley Valley, traditional farming the national park. The Civilian continues. The Parker-Hickman Conservation Corps (CCC) cabins at Farmstead in Erbie and the Collier Buffalo Point are a perennial favorite Homestead at Tyler Bend illustrate the with visitors. The CCC district is lives of the early settlers. The ghost on the National Register of Historic town at Rush Historic District gives a Places. glimpse of the zinc mining boom-and The national park also preserves bust of the area. the cultural history of the river and its For more info, visit www.nps. peoples. From village sites and bluff gov/buff. Park headquarters are in shelters of the early Mississippian and Harrison, Ark. Osage Indians to the cabins of pioneer

Missouri state parks provide free summer kayaking lessons

By Jo Schaper Have you ever wanted to try kayaking but didn't know where to begin?

For six Saturdays in July and August, Missouri state park staff will be offering free kayaking instruction at some Missouri state parks in a Learn2 Paddle program.

The parks will supply the equipment and expertise.

Paddlers should bring an eagerness to learn. The parks will provide kayaks, paddles, life jackets and instructors.

Novice kayakers must be at least 10 years old and wear appropriate swimwear and water shoes.

Children 17 and under must be accompanied by a

parent or guardian. (Parent/guardian does not have to participate but must be there to supervise.)

Participants should be comfortable around water.

All park rules and regulations apply. Using alcohol or tobacco products will not be allowed to keep the event family-friendly.

2014 Dates and Locations July 12 — Cuivre River State Park, Troy July 12 — Wakonda State Park, La Grange July 19 — Mark Twain State Park, Florida July 26 — Pomme de Terre State Park, Pittsburg Aug. 2 — Long Branch State Park, Macon Aug. 9 — Knob Noster State Park, Knob Noster

Aug. 9 — Wakonda State Park, La Grange Aug. 16 — Stockton State Park, Dadeville Aug. 16 — Finger Lakes State Park, Columbia

The classes are free but registration is required.

All slots will be filled on a first-come, firstserved basis at https://www.surveymonkey.com/ s/2014Learn2Paddle.

Other parks which provide rental kayaks or have a nearby private float operation for visitor adventures are Meramec, Sam A. Baker, Bennett Spring, Crowder, Lake Wappapello, Lake of the Ozarks, Mark Twain Lake and Thousand Hills.

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

Powder Mill camp, access

ELLINGTON

106

HH Blue Spring

ar k

Paint Rock

Log Yard camp, access Peck Ranch Wildlife Area

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60

D Watercress Spring camp, access

Chilton Creek

The access Landing

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Na

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Stray Dog BBQ Twin Pines Conservation Education Center

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Miller Lake

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VAN BUREN

★ ★103 ★ Skyline Drive

60

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Big Spring (largest in the world) camp, access

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Big Spring RV Camp

Ozark National Scenic Riverways Headquarters

er Riv

minence

LOWER CURRENT

21

Oz

Cardareva St. Forest

ELLSINORE

Cataract Landing Piney Wood Lake

To Poplar Bluff

E Hickory Landing

Hawes Park camp, access 0 Bay Nothin'

19

Mark Twain National Forest

er Riv

Mark Twain National Forest

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21

Irish Wilderness

TON

Y

160

Deer Leap access

Rocky River Resort

To Poplar Bluff

142

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OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

DONIPHAN

142

Deep, wide Lower Current handles floaters, motors

By Jo Schaper your legs, or scraping your butt on the Everyone calls it “floating, � but how rocks. Floating in a canoe or kayak often do you see anyone actually means paddle strokes are minimal, float? just enough to keep the craft headed Canoeists, kayakers, paddlers of forward, or from being hung. all sorts of craft busily ply the waters Floating means going with the they are on. Sometimes, it’s with good current, not fighting it, with plenty of reason: on smaller stretches, constant time to fish, or write, or think long obstacles, bends, riffles, chutes and thoughts about the scene you are passpools, even other craft too close by ing through. give sufficient reason to push, pull, Once the rush of water sloshing pole and paddle on the upper stretches side to side is over, once the river has of Ozark streams. straightened out, and is deep and wide Despite the careening journey of enough it knows where it is going, it’s most inflatable rafts, that’s not quite time to float. floating either.

Where does the Lower Current start?

Floating requires a sufficient depth of water and breadth of stream Big Spring RV Camp and length between craft Cabin & Tube Rental that one is not constantly saying, “Excuse me,�

Great Variety of Tubes & Tube Trips to strangers.

Floating in a tube Riverfront RV & Tent Camping means the water is deep Cabin Rentals 573-323-8328 enough you aren’t douwww.currentriver.com Van Buren bling over

Location: Shannon, Carter, Ripley counties.

Floatable Length: Entire river is floatable; Lower section consists of southernmost 69 miles of the 138 miles total length.

Difficulty: I, occasionally II; gradient of Lower Current is half to 1/3 of Upper Current Key Features: In strictly numeric terms, the Lower Current in Missouri begins near Cardereva Mountain/Log Yard access below Blue Spring.

The river widens and straightens, a series of deep holes and riffles with a deeper, clearer channel as one goes south. Fishing includes smallmouth bass, crappie, walleye, catfish and in the fall, gigging of various suckers and rough fish. Ozark Riverways goes to the Ripley County line, save two miles at Van Buren. Below the park the river contains bays and sloughs and slow backwaters, and use is heavily motorized.

Recommended Outfitters & Other Businesses: The Landing, eatsleepfloat.com; Rocky River Resort, rockyriverresort.com; Big Spring RV Camp, currentriver.com; Stray Dog BBQ, straydogbbq.net It’s a matter of opinion. Is it where the The excitement of banging on Jacks Fork comes in? How about Blue aluminum canoes at Akers isn’t floator Big Spring? Where the park ends? ing. It’s where the Current has grown Does the Lower Current begin where huge and blue-green in the depths, jetboats and bass boats outnumber where you can drift and not hit a thing. paddle craft? (There are two sorts of Where the river is big, but the fish are motor-boaters: those who whip the bigger. river to constant foam, and those who That’s where floating begins. troll upstream to drift ^ .O DOGS WERE HARMED DURING THE MAKING OF THIS ""1 ^ back down. The latter Stray Dog BBQ and Pizza are floaters.)

BBQ cooked with Ozark oak and hickory Is it where the river Open 7 days a week at 11 a.m. to 8, 9 or 10 p.m. $INE )N OR #ARRY /UT is big enough you can ""1 7HOLE "UTTS s 2IBS s "RISKET snake a 200-foot tie raft Specialty Pulled Pork, BBQ Chicken & Chicken Fajita Pizzas! around the bends, into Best Barbecue

Van Buren, Grandin,

$ECK $INING s #ATERING s "ULK /RDERS FOR PICKUP Traveler Readers Doniphan, powered by %VENT ROOM FOR s "IG 3CREEN 46 s &REE 7I&I Choice Awards nothing more than a few (WY AND *CT 6AN "UREN -O AT THE #URRENT 2IVER "RIDGE men with poles?

Come to the Current in Doniphan

Where there is always enough water!

a a a

CURRENT RIVER’S RESORT HEADQUARTERS

F L OAT I N G , L O D G I N G , & D I N I N G

Let us put you on the river. You always float back to camp. Canoes, tubes, rafts... or bring your own.

Store, nearby lodging...great fun away from home!

Make your floating and camping reservations by calling us at

573-996-7171

VAN BUREN, MO. 63965 (573) 323-8156 • EATSLEEPFLOAT.COM HWY. 60 & CURRENT RIVER VAN BUREN

For Motel Reservations - Call:

Rocky River Inn - 573-996-2400 • Current River Inn: 573-996-2101

www.rockyriverresort.com

6

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

JUNE 2014

Jacks Fork: Most wild and scenic of all?

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann idely considered to be the most wild and scenic of all the Ozark streams, the Jacks Fork is one of the state’s prime floating rivers. Its crystal-clear waters and stunning limestone bluffs make it one of the prettiest floats around. Part of

the Ozark National Scenic Riverways (ONSR), the Jacks Fork is a tributary of the Current River.

The upper sections, from the Prongs to Buck Hollow and from Buck Hollow to Rymers, Bay Creek or Alley Spring, are usually only floatable in the spring when the water is up. From Alley Spring on down to

IT’S ALL IN THE TIMING The bluffs are lovely on the upper Jacks Fork between Buck Hollow and Rymers, but you generally need to float early in the season to see them. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo.

Two Rivers where it joins the Current, the Jacks Fork is floatable year round.

This is because Alley Spring pours some 81 million gallons a day into the river, and many other smaller springs also add to the flow.

For a near-wilderness experience, try an early spring float on the upper sections; you’re likely to have the river to yourself on weekdays. The narrow upper section is lined with tall limestone bluffs, often on both sides of the river, almost like a canyon.

Access is quite limited on the upper section, making for a more primitive river experience.

During summer weekends, the section from Alley to Eminence can

be fairly crowded, but usually less so than the Current River. The stretch from Eminence to Two Rivers is wider and less scenic than the upper parts, but it is still beautiful.

Jam Up Cave, one of the state’s top geological wonders, is on the upper Jacks Fork and accessible only by river. The entrance, an arch 80 feet high and 100 feet wide, is visible from the river. You can climb up the hill to the entrance, but please do not enter the cave, which is closed to help control the spread of White Nose Syndrome, a disease in bats.

One of the state’s most Continued on Page 8

Floatin’ Fun

Canoes, Kayaks Rafts & Tubes •Private Canoe Shuttles •Store •Snacks •T-Shirts •Caps •Ice •Camping Supplies

573-226-3404 1-866-889-8177

www.windyscanoe.com

windys@gmail.com

Just South of Jacks Fork River Bridge in Eminence, MO

Come Stay With Us and Sit a Spell....

FLOAT THE BEAUTIFUL CURRENT & JACKS FORK RIVERS PUT IN OR TAKE OUT HERE! • Rent Canoes • Riverside Camping • Jacks Fork Store • Family Friendly • Full RV Hookups • Group Camps • Convenient Location

Open Year Round

Only 150 yards from the Jacks Fork River!

For reservations call

1/4 mile east of Eminence on Highway 106 1-800-522-5736 573-858-3221

1-800-JACKSFORK

www.jacksforkcanoe.com

573-226-3893

Come and spend your vacation with us

•Cable TVs •Heating & A/C •Playground Equipment •Laundromat • Full RV Hookups •Motel rooms & suites •Small Cabins (sleep up to 4) Large Cabins (sleep up to 10) •Story’s Creek Manor 3-BR ranch sleeps up to 12

Visit Scenic, Friendly Eminence:

• Elk Capital of Missouri

Coffee in Season

• Canoe Capital of the World

www.shadylanecabins.com PO Box 94 • N Hwy 19 • Eminence, MO 65466

Circle B Campground & Resort LLC

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

7

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

‘Float trip’ means Current River to many

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann ay “float trip” in Missouri, and the most likely river to come to mind is the Current.

It is probably the most-loved river in the state with the summer weekend crowds to prove it. If you can go during the week, do so;

bluffs, great fishing and an oldfashioned ferry.

The Current begins at Montauk State Park and flows 138 miles to where it crosses the state line into Arkansas; 101 miles of that is within the Ozark National Scenic Riverways (ONSR).

The Riverways was established

THESE TOO SHALL PASS A traffic jam on the Current River consists of canoes, kayaks and tubes, not cars and trucks. The ferry waits until the coast is clear before setting off. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photos.

you’ll usually have the river almost to yourself.

The reasons people love the Upper Current are obvious once you float it – crystal-clear water, springs and caves all along the way, scenic limestone

in 1964 as the first national park to protect a river system: the Current and its tributary, the Jacks Fork.

While floating the upper portion of the river, you can paddle into the cool interior of Cave Spring; get out

of your boat to medium and stretch river, with your legs on a mostly Class I hike to Pulltite or occasional Spring and Class II cabin or to the rapids, and is ruins of Welch suitable for hospital at experienced Welch Spring; and or wander up inexperienced from the river paddlers. to explore Numerous Current River REMINDER OF PAST The historic cabin on the outfitters rent State Park, trail to Pulltite Spring was built in the vertical canoes, kayaks, which opened in log style. The Park Service plans to someday rafts and tubes 2012. restore it. and provide The Department shuttles. There of Natural are plenty of Resources recently purchased the private and public campgrounds and former Camp Zoe on Sinking Creek, assorted lodging and dining choices. which flows into the Current, to With so many options for outdoor become another state park, which will recreation in the area, you’ll be hard offer future visitors even more options pressed to sample them all. in Current River Country.

This year is the 50th anniversary Off the river but while you’re in of the creation of the ONSR, and a the area, you can peer into Devil’s big celebration will be held at 6 p.m.

Well, a deep and vast sinkhole and Saturday Aug. 23 at the Depression underground lake; cross the river on Era Cabin at Big Spring. Ranger staff, Akers Ferry; fish for trout at Montauk; guest speakers and invited dignitaries take a cave tour at Round Spring; or will be on hand to recognize the explore some of the many hiking and park’s founding. Other special events horseback riding trails that crisscross throughout the summer include the area. historic films, bluegrass concerts and Because of all the springs that feed astronomy evenings. the Current, the river can be floated For more information about both the year round, especially below Welch Current and Jacks Fork rivers, visit Spring, which almost doubles the www.nps.gov/ozar. river’s flow. Also because of the springs, the water is about 60 degrees year round. The Current is an easy

~Riverside Motel & Cabins~ & Beulah’s Country Home

Hwy. 19 - 25 Miles south of Salem between Hwys. A and EE

1-800-226-6394

Or 573-858-3371 Canoes • Rafts • Kayaks Floater Camping • RV Hookups Convenience Store www.runningrivercanoe.com Come Float The Upper Current River!

HCR 62 Box 368 Salem Missouri 65560

YOUR FLOATING HEADQUARTERS FOR: • CANOES • KAYAKS • TUBES • RAFTS

Private River Access Waterfront Cabins www.riversidemotelonline.com Horse Boarding Swimming Pool

$5 off room • $10 off cabin with this ad Sun -Thurs one night only • not good with other specials

573-226-3291 MOTEL: 511 N. Main • Eminence MO 65466

Call us to reserve your style of Shannon County lodging NOW!

Call Toll Free to arrange your trip anywhere in the spring-fed Upper Current and Jacks Fork area.

At Round Spring Campground HCR 1, Box 137 Eminence, MO 65466-9711

800-333-3956 www.carrscanoerental.com

H

PULLTITE SPRING ROUND SPRING

Gene, El gard Marcus Mag

CABINS: Jason Place Campground CAMP: Jacks Fork Canoe Rental

At Pulltite Campground HCR 62, Box 375 Salem, MO 65466-9711

877-858-3250 www.current-river.com

Last working ferry in the Ozark Scenic Riverways

Come Floateawinothr &Us!

1-800-522-5736 1-800-333-5628 573-858-3228

Meet us on the banks of Jacks Fork and Current Rivers

Please visit our websites for current prices.

Canoe Capital of the Ozarks!

We rent canoes year round.

Located Just South of Salem, MO www.currentrivercanoe.com

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RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

Float the Jacks Fork & Current Rivers with...

JACKS FORK Location: Texas, Shannon counties Floatable Length: 44.6 miles Difficulty: I & II, better in spring Key Features: High gradient stream, Scenic bluffs at the Prongs, best all-year upper access at Blue Spring. Best to run loaded lightly above Alley Spring; Red Mill at Alley, scenic view at Two Rivers where it joins the Current River.

Recommended Outfitters and Area Businesses: Carr’s Canoe Rental, carscanoerental.com; Circle B Campground, circlebcampground.com; Current River Canoe Rental, current-river.com; Harvey’s Alley Spring Canoe Rental, harveysalleyspring.com; Jacks Fork Canoe Rental, jacksforkcanoe. com; Riverside Motel & Cabins, riversidemotelonline.com; Shady Lane Cabins & Motel, shadylanecabins.com; Windy’s Canoe Rental, windyscanoe.com

Voted Traveler Readers Favorite Canoe Outfitter, 2011

•Canoes •Kayaks •Rafts •Groceries •Camping •Car Shuttles

573-226-3386

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UPPER CURRENT

Location: Dent, Shannon counties Floatable Length: 60 miles to Owls Bend; 138 miles in Missouri

REFRESHING HAVEN Deep green, cool and surrounded by vegetation, Pulltite Spring on the upper Current River is typical of Ozark springs. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo.

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Continued from Page 6 photographed sites is the red mill at Alley Spring, which usually is open seasonally for tours.

However, Alley Mill is closed this summer for renovations to the roof, walls and foundation.

As with the Current, the Jacks Fork is spring fed, cold and clear. Part of the river is a trophy smallmouth bass area. Sunfish and goggle-eye are also abundant.

If you’re lucky, you’ll see some of Shannon County’s famous wild horses as you float the Jacks Fork. You will almost definitely see horses with riders; there are miles of horseback trails through the area and thousands of riders participate in trail ride events.

One of the best-kept secrets of the Jacks Fork is now open CLEAR PADDLING The to the public. Since crystalline waters of the 1947, members of the Jacks Fork near Bay Creek Missouri State Teachers keep floaters coming back Association (MSTA) year after year. Barbara and their guests have Gibbs Ostmann photo. been able to enjoy the camp-like setting of Bunker Hill Retreat, on the banks of the Jacks Fork within the ONSR. The cabin resort is now open to the public, from May through October, and offers a family-friendly outpost.

For more information about the Jacks Fork River, visit www.nps.gov/ozar.

Located at Alley Spring National Park Campground

Shane & Kim Van Steenis, owners

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Lower Jacks Fork is floatable year-round

JUNE 2014

Difficulty: I to II. Dangerous in flash flood.

Key Features: River starts at Montauk. Cedar Grove to Owls Bend most frequently used by floaters. Approximately 100 miles in Ozark National Scenic Riverways. Crowded on summer Saturdays. 58 springs, including state’s largest, are along the river.

Recommended Outfitters and Area Businesses: Akers Ferry Canoe Rental, currentrivercanoe.com; Carr’s Canoe Rental, carrscanoerental. com; Circle B Campground, circlebcampground.com; Current River Canoe Rental, current-river.com; Harvey’s Alley Spring Canoe Rental, harveysalleyspring.com; Jacks Fork Canoe Rental, jacksforkcanoe.com; Riverside Motel & Cabins, riversidemotelonline.com; Running River Canoe Rental, runningrivercanoe.com; Shady Lane Cabins & Motel, shadylanecabins. com; Windy’s Canoe Rental, windyscanoe.com

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

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Eleven Point: Missouri’s only National Scenic River

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann popular day trip is from Greer to he Eleven Point River in southeast Whitten, and overnight from Greer to Missouri is the state’s only National Scenic Riverton.

River. A 44-mile stretch of the Eleven Canoes and kayaks are popular Point, from Thomasville to the Highway on the river. Fishermen seeking 142 bridge, was one of the first eight rivers included smallmouth bass, walleye and trout in the National Wild and Scenic River System may opt for flat-bottomed johnboats. in 1968. The Ozark National Scenic Riverways, Motor boats are restricted to 25 mph. established in 1964, laid the groundwork for the During the week, you will have the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968. river mostly to yourself for a remote, The epitome of an wildernessOzarks stream, the type Eleven Point is spring experience. fed, cold and clear.

The U.S. It flows past steep Forest limestone bluffs and Service forested valleys, through maintains deep pools and rapids. It seven float starts near Thomasville camps along as a narrow stream, the river, and grows wider and each offering deeper as it meanders picnic table, WORTH THE HIKE The trailhead to Greer Spring is southward and springs on Highway 19, eight miles north of Alton. The spring latrine and add water to the flow. doubles the size of the Eleven Point and is one of the fire ring.

Greer Spring alone, with Ozarks most scenic. Emery Styron photo.

Camping is its average daily flow of allowed on 222 million gallons, doubles the size of the river. gravel bars and river banks, but not Greer Spring, the second largest spring in the on private land adjacent to the river. state and arguably the most scenic, has been in the There’s a Forest Service campground news, with the recent transfer of the historic mill at Greer Crossing on Highway 19, from private ownership to the U.S. Forest Service. and private campgrounds in Alton, The Friends of the Eleven Point (see Facebook page Greer and Riverton. of this name) plans canoe races, work days and In the National Scenic River fundraising events, to help get the mill ready for the section of the Eleven Point, there public. Whatever you do while down by the Eleven are no impoundments and the Point, be sure to take time to hike from the trailhead shoreline and watershed are mostly FAMILIAR TAKEOUT The Hwy. 160 bridge at Riverton Access is a picturesque endpoint for many float trips on the Eleven Point River. Boze on Highway 19 to Greer Spring. It is one of the undeveloped. About half the lands Spring and the remains of old mill machinery are not far upstream from prettiest hikes around. are private and the rest is Mark Rated a Class I and Class II river, the Eleven Point Twain National Forest. The western the bridge. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo is a relatively easy river requiring intermediate boundary of the Irish Wilderness, a gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5200703. experience. The chutes at Mary Decker Shoal and 16,227-acre national wilderness area, is adjacent to pdf before your trip, or pick up a copy of the free Halls Bay can approach a Class III, so if the route the river. brochure at an area outfitter. looks hazardous, walk your boat around. Floats Be sure to download a copy of the “Eleven Point range from half-day trips to overnighters. The most Scenic River Travel Guide” at http://www.fs.usda.

ELEVEN POINT

Location: Oregon County.

Floatable Length:49 miles in Missouri. Sixteen miles above Greer: inquire locally in dry years.

Difficulty:I-II Key Features: The Eleven Point River traverses mostly remote and forested areas, much of it under U.S. Forest Service control. Fishing includes sunfish, smallmouth, largemouth bass, pike. Between Greer and Turners Mill, five and one half miles are under Blue Ribbon Trout Management.

Primitive camps exist in the Forest above flood levels. Places to see: Irish Wilderness, Greer Spring, The Narrows, Turner’s Mill, Boze Mill Spring.

The river is brisk and interesting to traverse, but does not rise to true whitewater.

Recommended Outfitter: Eleven Point Canoe Rental, 11pointcanoe.com.

Greer Access Greer Spring Branch

19 Turner Mill Access

Whitten Access

CR 127

19

McDowell Access

CR 137

AA Springs Access

Eleven Point Canoe Rental

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FF 160

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New! Revised! Expanded! A Paddler’s Guide to Missouri Oz Hawksley’s original book from 1965 plus a whole lot more • Maps & details of popular float streams plus lesser-known streams & tributaries • 9 x 11 inches, gorgeous color phots, lay-flat spiral binding. • A must- have for floaters. $8.95 from Traveler, plus tax & shipping.

CALL 800-874-8423, EXT. 2 or send $13.75 for book, tax & shipping to: River Hills Traveler, P.O. Box 245, St. Clair, MO 63077

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Call: 417-778-6497 Jct. US 160 and Mo. 19

Located in Alton, MO

www.11pointcanoe.com

Authorized Concessioner of the U.S. Forest Service - Eleven Point Scenic and Wild River

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JUNE 2014

Noel, Pineville are twin epicenters of Elk River floating

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By Emery Styron spent many a sunburned, happy day in my youth swimming, fishing and exploring along the Elk River and its tributaries, Indian Creek, Big Sugar, Little Sugar and Mike’s Creek. If I looked hard enough, I could probably find scars from embedded fish hooks and infected chigger bites to prove it.

Though I haven’t lived around there for years, I still think of the Elk as my home watershed. I never pass up a chance to drive old scenic Hwy. 59 as it winds through Anderson, Lanagan and Ginger Blue and visit the Christmas City, Noel, with its lovely overhanging bluffs, and more recent Hispanic vibe. Then it’s fun to take the county road through the Elk River valley over to the charming county seat of Pineville, which stood in for Liberty, Mo., in the 1938 filming of “Jesse James,” starring Henry Fonda and Tyrone Power. The movie shoot, a major event for a town of 383 at that time, is commemorated with the annual Jesse James Days celebration.

Nowadays, you can swoosh through McDonald County so fast on the new Interstate 49, that you’ll be in Arkan-

Our motto: “Arrive as friends... depart as family.”

71 Elk River Rd. Pineville MO 64856

sas before you know it. That would be a shame. Take the time enjoy the rugged, Ozarkian pleasures of Missouri’s most southwestern county.

Noel and Pineville are the twin epicenters of Elk River floating. The Elk is formed at Pineville by the confluence of Big Sugar and Little Sugar Creeks and flows generally northwest toward the Oklahoma line, where it becomes the Cowskin arm of Grand Lake of the Cherokees.

The Elk picks up additional water from Indian Creek and other smaller streams in its journey toward Indian Territory.

The river is contained entirely by McDonald County, which despite rapid development in recent years, is still a rugged, scenic corner of the Ozarks noted for its steep hills, clear streams, craggy bluffs and the traditional character of its residents.

The smallmouth, largemouth and goggle-eye fishing remains superb.

If you put in at the Roller Bridge on Big Sugar where Missouri 90 and Highway KK meet and go all the way to the Highway 43 bridge near the Oklahoma line, you’ll traverse some 80 river miles.

The 21-mile stretch Come Visit Us from Pineville to HighOn the Banks of the Elk River way 43 is more acces•Float trips •Rentals: Canoes, kayaks •Tent camping 4, 6 or 8 man rafts sible.

•Cabins •Swim, fish, play volleyball, As a practical matter, •RV hookups basketball, shuffleboard •Day passes •Camp store, hot showers outfitters around Pineville Call 417-223-4586 to reserve offer four-, eight and 12 miles floats from upstream on the Big Sugar down to their locations, info @ KozyKamp.com Continued on next page www.KozyKamp.com

SOUTHWEST MISSOURI ATTRACTION Elk River’s rugged scenery and cold, spring fed waters atttracts paddlers from northeast Oklahoma, northwest Arkansas Kansas City and the immediate area. Photo courtesy Two Sons Floats & Camping.

Elk Location: McDonald County Floatable Length: 45 miles Big and Little Sugar Creeks come together to form the Elk River; they are partly floatable in their own names during normal years. Indian Creek is another tributary.

Difficulty: mostly II

Key Features: No major rapids or falls, clear spring fed water, scenic uplands, glades and bluffs, excellent smallmouth, largemouth and goggle-eye fishing.

Recommended Outfitters: Big Elk Camp, bigelkcampcanoe.com; Kozy Kamp, kozykamp.com; River Ranch Resort, riverranchresort.com; Shady Beach Campground, shadybeach.com; Two Sons Floats & Camping, twosonsfloats-camping.com GOODMAN

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JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

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OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

How to read Missouri streams for rights of passage

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By Jo Schaper n Missouri where do you have the right of passage along a stream, and what can you do while you are there?

This isn’t legal advice. There is no legal code enumerating streams or legal stretches for paddling or wade fishing like there are for black bass trophy areas, but there are a few reasonable

Trees Land Plants

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High Bank Trees

Shallow

High Bank

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Figure 1 - Simple stream plan view.

Anywhere between high banks you may pass over water or land. Note that gravel bars are usually on the inside of curves, deep holes beneath high banks on the outside.

assumptions you can use to reduce the chance of conflict.

The Missouri legislature has not enacted statutes that would define the rights of floaters and anglers to be on streams that flow over private property.

Until the legislature does so, we’re left with the application of rules of law made by courts, which are difficult to apply to streams that are constantly changing.

Streams change with every flood. Banks collapse.

A heavy gravel load can scour out a pool, move gravel bars, even jump and cut a new channel.

Those portions of the 58 streams shown as floatable in “A Paddler’s Guide to Missouri,” published by the Missouri Department of Conservation, are a good inventory of sections of streams that have been customarily used for boating, fishing and small craft paddling.

Here are some guidelines—offered without guarantees--that will reduce conflicts with property owners and other floaters:

You have the right to paddle or fish from any craft, as long as that Local Spring High Water Mark the craft will float with you in it, provided you access and leave the stream from a public access or with permission of the landowner whose land you cross.

Disputed Area Put-ins and takeouts usually include where a state or county road crosses a stream, unless specifically prohibited. You do not always have the right to leave your vehicle there. Don’t use A A’ private roads for stream access without permission.

Ok. Now it’s lunch. You need to land to find your sandwich, and stretch your legs. What now?

Figure 2. - Stream cross-section.

Where can you be on a stream?

Occupying from A to A’ and below is OK. Let’s look around.

From A’ to the local high water mark is sometimes a matter of dispute to include • If you are in your boat, on or not include as part of the riverbed. flowing water, you are ok.

Beyond that height, property belongs to the landowner.

• If you are on a gravel bar, between local high banks, on a part of the riverbed which is usually covered in high water, you are ok.

• If you are on rocks or sand, surrounded by water If you need to do your business, be discreet. Plan willow, sycamore and other low shrubby water ahead. Carry a garden trowel to dig and cover a plants you are probably ok. shallow cat hole in an emergency. Pack out every • Stay vertically below any high banks. manufactured thing you bring, including used toilet • Keep the noise down, especially after dark, to paper in a zip lock bag. be considerate to other floaters, campers and nearby Human waste decomposes rapidly, paper does not. residents. If you need a fire, keep it small.

Do not land on posted or purple painted land.

•The Missouri Department of Conservation Portage under or around fences, leaving them as defines the riparian corridor versus the uplands they are. It doesn’t matter who is in the ‘right’ – by vegetation. Once you are far enough from the there is no point agitating someone who has already river that trees and grass are growing from dirt, you had a run-in that caused the posting in the first are probably beyond where you should be, unless place. within public land.

The stream drawings give a good idea where you should be, but every Figure 3. Disputes also arise when a landowner’s house or cabin is within the area between the river level and the local high bank, river stretch is different and such as when it is across the river from a bluff. changes over time. Learn to read the river each time you go. My rule of thumb is to stay within 10 feet of the shore, avoid private buildings, and don’t loiter.

Stop for your purpose, then move on. If asked to leave, do so quickly and quietly.

A couple reminders: you are a guest, and a gravel bar is not a garbage dump.

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Elk offers floating, fishing, swimming in state’s SW corner

Continued from previous page and eight-mile floats from Pineville to Mt. Shira public access near Noel.

Noel outfitters offer five-and eight mile floats from upriver back to their

locations.

The Elk has an average gradient of four feet per mile and is rated a Class I and II stream. The dam at Shadow Lake in Noel can be dangerous and

there’s a chain-link fence on the new bridge) but another float trip down the Elk is high on my bucket list.

THE ELK RIV E N I L ER P I Z

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Family Friendly Camping Floating the Elk River & Sugar Creek

should probably be portaged.

I wouldn’t care to repeat some of the foolish things I did in my youth — jumping off the Elk River Bridge, for example (you can’t do it anymore;

www.bigelkcampcanoe.com

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• vacation rental homes • Camp cabins w/ A/C • Canoes, kayaks, rafts & tubes 1-800-745-6481 or 417-475-6483 Noel, MO 64854 www.shadybeach.com

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Location: Texas, Pulaski, Phelps counties Floatable Length: 85.7 or continue into Gasconade Difficulty: Mostly I, sometimes II after rains Key Features: Excellent bass fishery, shallow gravel paddle in spots. The Big Piney crosses Ft. Leonard Wood, so be aware of maneuvers. Goes through Mark Twain National Forest. Many springs. Town of Devils Elbow near the end of river is notable US 66 location.

Recommended Outfitter: Boiling Spring Campground, bscfloattrips. com: LayZDay Canoes & Camping, layzday.com.

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By Jo Schaper t 253 miles, the Gasconade River (not including any tributaries) is the longest river entirely contained within the state.

It rises near Hartville in Wright County, as a shallow, clear, springfed creek, suitable for kayak and canoe. North of Falcon, three major springs stablize water levels from Hwy. 32 meanders north, joins forces with its major tributary the Osage Fork (at 85 miles, not a short stream itself) near Hazelgreen and just shy of I-44.

Continued on Page 18

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a few miles below the town of Devil’s Elbow. It is possible to float through the fort; that does require special permission, and I’ve never done it.

The upper section is mostly forested with a moderately fast drop of four feet per mile, consisting of chutes and pools, with a moderate flow so paddling upstream is not a problem.

Abundant medium-sized springs keep the Piney floatable except in drought.

It was “just right” for a night froggigging expedition some years ago.

Boiling Spring Access far south in Texas County is a popular put-in for the float to Hwy. 32. This Boiling Spring is not to be confused with Continued on Page 18

Gasconade is longest river contained within Missouri

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By Jo Schaper he Big Piney River is the only float stream in Missouri where one needs to clear access with Military Range Control or the Outdoor Adventure Center on Fort. Leonard Wood before floating through about eight miles midstream, and for good reason.

The fort is home to Army live fire and chemical weapons training; it is assuredly NOT a good idea to try to sneak through.

The Piney, in Texas, Pulaski and Phelps counties, is separated into three sections: the upper section, above the Fort, the Fort section, and the lower, which flows into the Gasconade River

JUNE 2014

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Big Piney flows through Fort, is home to lunker smallmouth

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Gasconade Family Camping & Canoeing In the♥of the Missouri Ozarks

18700 Cliff Road Dixon, MO 65459

larryh@dixoncamping.com We’re located just north of I-44 exit 163 at Dixon, MO GPS: N 37°53’23’’ W 92°02’10’’ on the Gasconade River.

The best family riverfront floating/camping in midMissouri. Call for reservations then come see us!

Location: Wright, Laclede, Pulaski, Phelps, Maries, Osage, Gasconade counties Floatable Length: 253.1 miles Difficulty: Mostly I, seldom II Key Features: Gasconade runs north from the Springfield Plateau to the Missouri River. Spring fed, mostly private access, pretty crooked in places, easy floating.

Recommended Outfitter: Boiling Spring Campground, bscfloattrips. com; LayZDay Canoes & Camping, layzday.com.

Float Fishing the Old-Fashioned Way

Come enjoy

Peaceful floats and quality fishing along a Trophy Smallmouth stream

Give Us a Call for Muli-Day Floats: 573-336-8639

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JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

Huzzah & Courtois Location: Crawford County Floatable Length: Courtois 21.2 miles; Huzzah 29.4 miles Difficulty: Shallow, but often II with high gradient Key Features: Courtois flows into Huzzah, which flows into Meramec. Clear, gravel bottomed, frequent obstructions, rarely deep.

Can flash flood, crowded summer weekends, good for kayaks, sometimes challenging for tandem canoe.

Recommended Outfitters: Bass’ River Resort, bassresort.com; Huzzah Valley Resort, huzzahvalley.com; Ozark Outdoors Riverfront Resort, ozarkoutdoors.net.

Courtois & Huzzah: hard to say, easy to like

Courtois a small Jacks Fork but closer to St. Louis

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann erhaps the biggest challenge when floating the Courtois is learning how to pronounce the name of this scenic, spring-fed creek.

If you’ve studied French, you’ll want to say, coor-twa. But the locals won’t know what you’re talking about. It’s coort-a-way or code-away in Ozark dialect. However you pronounce it, it is beautiful.

We like to think of the clear-water Courtois as a miniature version of the Jacks Fork, with the same type of

James: a river recovered

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By Josephine Cozean Styron he James River is beautiful.

Starting at Diggins in Webster County, Missouri, the moderately-paced 130-mile river drains five counties in Southwest Missouri, traveling through wooded hills and pretty pastures as well as more urban areas at a nice clip. The river is dammed to create Lake Springfield, then heads south to Galena before becoming an arm of Table Rock Lake, an impoundment of the White River.

In October 2012 when our friend Gail asked my husband and me to go floating with her on the James River,

I was a little leery. Living in Branson, I could remember back in 1998 and 1999 when two large algae blooms, one followed by a large fish kill, turned Table Rock Lake a nasty pea green. The problem was attributed to excess phosphorus.

So, when we put in at Horse Creek Public Access above Galena, I was delighted to see a beautiful clear river, running with that sweet sound rivers make when flowing over riffles.

Limestone bluffs lined the river at the first bend, creating a nice backdrop for trees just beginning to show their fall colors. The day was sunny, the Continued on Page 16

James

wild scenery and limestone bluffs, just on a smaller scale and closer to the St. Louis area. The creek is bordered by dense stands of trees and vegetation, giving it a sense of seclusion and remoteness. The setting is largely unspoiled, with a true Ozarks character. Part of the creek flows alongside the Huzzah Conservation Area.

Because it is a small stream, floating early in the year when there is higher water is desirable. March and April often provide the opportunity to float stretches that are not deep enough during the hotter, drier months of Continued on Page 15

REMEMBER F.D.I.C. Fun Down In the Country Only 1 1/2 Hours from St Louis

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OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

• Canoes • Rafts • Kayaks • Tubes • Swimming Pool • Lodging • Group Rates • Catered BBQ's • Riverfront Camping • Horseback Riding

Location: Greene, Christian and Stone counties. \Floatable Length:10 miles above Lake Springfield; 49 miles below the lake. Lake dam obstructs passage for 2 miles, but you may paddle on the lake. Last usable takeout before Table Rock Lake is at Galena; paddling allowed to Table Rock when reservoir is not full.

Difficulty: Usually I and II. The upper stretch may be III because of obstructions.

Key Features: The James River claims to be the first float stream in the state, and residents along the James are credited with building the first Ozark style johnboats. Most popular float is Hootentown to Galena. Good fishing. The James is the local party river for Springfield.

Recommended Outfitter: James River Outfitters, jamesriveroutfitters.com

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Map data ©2014 Google

2000 ft

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OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

JUNE 2014

To avoid crowds on busy Meramec weekday floats are your best bet

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By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann Sappington Bridge to Meramec State Park, he Meramec River is one of the and from the state park to Meramec Caverns. state’s most popular floating and You can paddle all the way to the Mississippi fishing streams, partly because of its River, if desired, but the closer you get to proximity to the St. Louis area and St. Louis and the Mississippi, the wider and partly because of muddier the Meramec its scenic beauty. becomes and the Generally more developed the speaking, the best shoreline. floating is from Maramec Spring Maramec Spring Park, near St. to Meramec State James, is maintained Park, with a good

by The James quality experience Foundation, while available all the the spring branch way to St. Clair or and trout hatchery Pacific. are managed by the A spring-fed Missouri Department Ozark stream, of Conservation. the Meramec is The spring has an COOLING OUT The Meramec’s nearness to St. Louis average daily flow of floatable most of the year; however, makes it a popular place for city dwellers and 90 million gallons, suburbanites to cool off on summer weekends. Photo making it the state’s above Maramec courtesy of The Rafting Co. Spring high water fourth largest spring. is needed. The Onondaga Cave Woodson K. Woods Wildlife Area Access State Park near Leasburg and Meramec State near the Highway 8 bridge is usually the Park near Sullivan offer camping and other highest practical access point. Two of the amenities, and there are many private most popular floats in the Sullivan area are Continued on Page 16

MIXING IT UP — Canoes, kayaks, rafts, tubes and motorized craft all come together on the Meramec. The water is generally plentiful, the fishing is good and the scenery terrific. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo.

Old Cove Canoe & Kayak

Meramec

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Ozarks Float Trippin’ is an annual production of the River Hills Traveler, a monthly outdoors magazine headquartered in St. Clair, Mo. Emery Styron is editor and publisher and Jo Schaper is assistant editor. We are indebted to Nolan Brunnworth, Greg “Rudi” Rudroff, Bill Cooper and Paul Wilkerson of The Rafting Co., for our cover photographs. Brunnworth also supplied several photos used throughout Ozark Float Trippin’. Other principal contributors are Barbara Gibbs Ostmann and Jody Cozean Styron. For advertising information or editorial questions, contact River Hills Traveler, 800-874-8423, email estyron@rhtrav.com.

★

Huzz

Location: Dent, Crawford, Phelps, Franklin, Jefferson, St. Louis counties Floatable Length: 193.5 miles Difficulty: Usually I, occasionally II Key Features: Upper Meramec and Maramec Spring is trout/smallmouth fishery with shallow, clear water; middle to lower Meramec is murky catfish water. Banks have numerous caves, some small springs. Gravel to mud bottom. Lots of public land access. Can be floated all the way to Mississippi River. Popular swimming river. Flows through historically significant mineral area. Lower portion urban, but still used.

Recommended Outfitters: Bass’ River Resort, bassresort.com; Huzzah Valley Resort, huzzahvalley.com; Meramec State Park, meramecpark.com; Old Cove Canoe & Kayak, oldcovecanoe.com; Ozark Outdoors Riverfront Resort, ozarkoutdoors.net; Riverview Ranch, riverviewranch.org; The Rafting Co., theraftingco.com.

Recommended Campground: Pheasant Acres, pheasantacresrv.com.

★

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49 Indian Trail St. Forest

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JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

Courtois to Huzzah to Meramec; you can float all three in one day

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OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

Continued from Page 13 late summer. Canoes and kayaks are the preferred means. When the water is up, the river can be Class II, with narrow channels and sharp turns; usually it is Class I. The Courtois abounds with fish, turtles and waterfowl. Anglers can float or wade while fishing for smallmouth bass, goggle-eye, sunfish and bluegill.

Primitive camping is available along the creek, and there are public and private campgrounds nearby.

For a fun, three-riversin-one-day trip, put in on the Courtois, paddle into the Huzzah, and then into the Meramec, taking out near Onondaga.

Now that is a super day on the water!

Huzzah: river or creek?

By Jo Schaper The floatable length of Huzzah Creek may CLEAN STREAM The pristine upper reaches of the be a mere 30 miles, but Courtois are best explored in March and April but the with a drop of between stream’s lower sections are floatable throughought the seven to nine feet per year. Jo Schaper photo. mile, the floater needs to stay awake and alert for what may lie around the next bend.

Except during flood, the duration of which is normally measured in hours, neither the Huzzah nor its near twin, the Courtois, are deep enough for any but the most shallow draft craft, and that excludes most motorized jet boats, except in the lowest reaches.

The Huzzah originates in southern Crawford County, near the hamlet of Dillard, but the first reliable all weather put-in is at Hwy. V Bridge, in Davisville. The Huzzah is unusual in that although it is rated class II difficulty water for gradient, speed and obstructions, very few places are so deep that they are not wadeable, and therefore moderately safe.

This creek at the Forest Service’s Red Bluff Campground was one of my first childhood camping locations where we were allowed to roam at will with inner tubes and air mattresses and until camping was discontinued at the Huzzah Conservation Area, one of our favorite getaways as young adults.

Sometimes the most fun is the cheapest: throw a tent, sleeping bag, packed cooler and chairs into the car and go. It’s this sort of outdoor adventure that the Huzzah inspires.

Above Scotia Bridge, and during July and August, a tandem canoe is too much boat for this stream, as we’ve discovered floating with brothers who have singleton canoes. I long to wrestle the Huzzah in a kayak, someday.

Technically, whether a stream is a creek or a river is merely the name on the map. The Huzzah is to me a “bluegill” of streams: small, scrappy and with plenty of fight, which doesn’t need the word “river” to dignify its existence.

NATURE LESSON Jody Miles (right, holding snake) and Bill Miles (center, in water) of Earth's Classroom in Rosebud, lead one of their float expeditions on the Huzzah River. Learning about the flora and fauna of the river is as much a part of the float as is paddling. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo.

Meramec State Park 1-888-MERAMEC

or

573-468-6519

Cabins Now Open until October 31st Fall and Spring Specials: Stay 3 nights, 4th night free after Labor Day, before Memorial Day

CANOE, RAFT & KAYAK FLOATS on the Meramec River CALL 1-888-MERAMEC or 573-468-6519 1-888-637-2632 or visit meramecpark.com - weekend reservations

Fireside Store & Grill

Ice • Firewood • Camping & Fishing Supplies • Licenses • Beer

Grill features appetizers, burgers, fries, sandwiches and more!

Groceries • Souvenirs • ATM • Propane

• MOTEL • CONFERENCE ROOM

4 Miles South of Sullivan on Hwy 185

Concessionaire Mike Fleming

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RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

JUNE 2014

James rebounds after cities reduce pollution

Continued from Page 13 air had the smell of fresh river water.

But, the James River hasn’t always been this way.

By the 1990s, the once-vaunted river of trophy bass and scenic float trips had become so polluted that the local band, Big Smith, even wrote a song,“The Dirty Old James,” about it.

Effluents such as excessive nitrogen and phosphates from industrial, urban and rural sources had turned the water ugly and made swimming and floating on the James an unpleasant experience.

That’s when citizen-formed groups stepped in. The James River Basin Partnership formed with the purpose of restoring healthy water quality in the streams and lakes of the water-

shed.

Director Joe Pitts said the Environmental Protection Agency, working through the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, got Springfield, Ozark and Nixa on the pathway to providing phosphorous removal. After expenditures of millions of dollars, the river and its watershed began to improve.

Better water quality benefitted wildlife, too. “I always see birds on the James,” said Gail. “I’ve seen eagles on nests right there on the river. I always see herons, kingfishers, and turkey vultures.”

In February this year, my husband Harry and I again floated the James with Gail and other friends. The weather was beautiful and warm for

early spring.

In my borrowed kayak, I ventured ahead of the others. In the quiet, I came upon many birds of different species, sometimes sharing a field or bank together. I saw eagles, kingfishers, many ducks and Canada geese, that would repeatedly fly up as I approached, then land further down the river.

My favorite part of the day came near the end of the float. I quietly “crept up” on a passel of geese and ducks. They watched me warily, but stayed put on the bank. Then my friends came around the river bend, laughing and talking. Suddenly I was surrounded by wings, feathers, and honking as the ducks and geese around me literally exploded into the

Meramec prized for diversity of aquatic life Continued from Page 14 campgrounds and resorts along this stretch of the river.

Meramec Caverns, a popular tourist attraction near Stanton, offers cave tours, zipline, boat rides, lodging and dining. Continuing east toward St. Louis, you’ll find Robertsville State Park, Route 66 State Park and Castlewood State Park, all with nearby access to the river.

Canoes, kayaks, rafts and tubes are all appropriate for the Meramec, and motorboats are also permitted. The river is rated mostly Class I, with limited Class II, and is suitable for both experienced and novice paddlers. Summer weekends can be crowded and rowdy, especially near some of the larger private campgrounds, but weekdays offer peaceful nature experiences.

The Meramec is home to the most diverse aquatic life of any river in the state. There are many unique, rare and endangered mussels, and even

SUNKEN TREASURE Attendees at the James River Basin Partnership annual float trip examine their river finds. Joe Pitts photo. air. One goose flew right in so close that I could almost touch it.

As we took out near the twin bridges at Galena, I reflected on what a wonderful float this had been. I didn’t know the history of the James River at that time. I only knew that I had had a wonderful time on a beautiful river.

CANOEING • RAFTING CAMPING • FISHING Hot Showers • Tasty BBQ FREE fishing with camping No permit required

1-573-775-2419

www.luckycloverriverresort.com 69 Lucky Clover Rd • Steelville, MO

TUBE TIME Tubes are popular on the Meramec and other Ozark streams, probably because they are easy to fall out of. The Rafting Co. photo. some Ozark hellbenders, a type of salamander.

Fishermen will find smallmouth bass, catfish and panfish, plus trout fishing at Maramec Spring Park.

Canoes • Kayaks • Rafts • Group Camping

Float The Cove!

4.5 and 9 mile floats back to your car Plenty of gravel bars and bluffs Stream, creek and spring-fed water

Family Friendly - Shady Sites Open Year Round

Near Trout Fishing - Music Shows Show Caves - Restaurants Bow Fishing in Season - More

573-265-5149

A short drive south from I-44!

Latitude: 37° 57’ 29.7” N Longitude: 91° 36’ 29.9” W

20279 Highway 8 St James, MO 65559 pheasantacresrv.com

Whatever Happens Here A River Runs Through It. Riverfront Resort On the Banks of the Meramec River Just Down from Campbell Bridge Hwy. N • South of Bourbon

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO STAY? Group cabin, camper cabin, tent or a bag

under the stars, we can accommodate you.

Bringing your RV? We have electric sites.

We’ve got river spaces and higher places.

Go to www.riverviewranch.org, and call to RESERVE today!

HOW DO YOU WANT TO PLAY?

Weekend Floats • Canoe Trips for 2 starting at $30.00 Less than an hour from St. Louis

Group and private party camping only.

Old Cove does not have a convenience store. Please bring food, drink, and supplies with you. The nearest convenience store gas station is in St. Clair, about 8 miles away.

1316 Old Cove Rd CALL FOR RESERVATIONS! St. Clair, MO 63077

636-629-2220

www.oldcovecanoe.com

You play YOUR way here. Quiet. LOUD. Go for a hike on nearby Vilander Bluff, highest bluff on the upper Meramec. Float. Swim.

Strum your guitar. Party hard on one of our music weekends. Bring 400 of your closest friends. Talk to us. We can make it happen.

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO? From Riverview Ranch you are in easy driving distance of show caves, old iron furnaces, plenty of state park and conservation land, antiquing along I-44, local restaurants, Cuba-the Rt. 66 Mural City, the world’s largest rocking chair, and even St. Louis. Visit the city and sleep in the quiet under our stars.

WHAT DO YOU WANT TO ROW? Canoes. Kayaks. Rafts. Tubes. Your own floating craft. At Riverview Ranch floats start upstream and come back to camp at your own speed. No “rushing” to make the takeout in time. Our takeout point isn’t going anywhere. Check with us for group and weekday rates.

We’ll beat any local advertised prices.

For more information, visit www.riverviewranch.org or call 800-RIV-VIEW (800-748-8439)

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

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Niangua Location: Dallas, Laclede, Camden counties Floatable Length: Usually 66 miles, sometimes 79.5 miles Difficulty: I & II Key Features: Trout waters at Bennett Spring, usually placid paddle, mild gradient, decent fishing. Water clear to murky. Forms the Niangua Arm of Lake of the Ozarks.

Recommended Outfitters: Adventures Float Trips & Campground, mo-adventures.org; Circle J Campground, circlejcampground.com; One-Eyed Willy’s, oneeyedwillys.com.

Corkery

Road

One-Eyed Willy’s ★

Barclay Conservation Area

Coffin Cave Conservation Area

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STREAM GRADIENTS & DIFFICULTY RATINGS

The term gradient, as used in this publication, refers to the grade or slope of a stream expressed in feet per mile. For example, a river with a gradient of 11.8 drops on the average 11.8 feet per mile.

International Scale of River Difficulty Class I — Easy. Fast moving water with riffles and small waves.

Class II - Novice. Straighforward rapids with wide clear channels. Occasional maneuvering required Class III — Intermediate. Rapids with moderate, irregular waves which may be difficult to avoid and can swamp and open canoe.

Class IV — Advanced. Intense and powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. The rapids may feature large, unavoidable waves and holes or constricted passages demanding fast maneuvers under pressure.

Class V — Expert. Extremely long, obstructed, or very violent rapids which expose a paddler to added risk. Rapids may contain large, unavoidable waves and holes or steep, congested chutes with complex, demanding routes.

Class VI — Extreme and exploratory. These rapids have rarely been attempted and exemplify the extremes of difficulty, unpredictability, and danger.

GOOD PLACE FOR KIDS — The Niangua’s gentle gradient and ample fish populations makes it a good choice for youngsters to develop their paddling and angling skills. Families should keep in mind that the Niangua can get crowded and rowdy on weekends. Emery Styron photo.

Niangua River, Bennett Spring State Park offer many options

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By Jo Schaper he middle Niangua River most resembles the Meramec in a number of characteristics: the clarity of the chert-bottomed river, from clear to a deep murky green, the weekend party destination about an hour away from a major metropolitan area (Springfield) and the usually gentle nature of the float, allowing for extended periods of smallmouth fishing.

I’ve only floated this middle area, just above and below Bennett Spring.

The river winds across the eastern flank of the Springfield Plateau and paddling is about as easy as it gets, the tradeoff for pleasant, but less dramatic scenery.

The Niangua also draws from

Kansas City; so if you are looking for solitude, choose the Niangua in spring or fall, or during the week. Between the floating and fishing, summer weekends can get pretty crazy.

This river offers a wide variety of accommodations, from basic, bare bones tent camps to luxurious resorts set up for corporate retreats. Horses to hikes, party camps, family friendly venues, even hundreds of person rendezvous can be accommodated somewhere on the river.

Bennett Spring adds 100 million gallons of water and thousands of rainbow trout to the river daily just north of Lebanon. The state park visitor’s center hosts one of the best springs displays in the state. Though a large town in its own right, Lebanon Continued on next page

FLoat trips & Campground LLC

Canoes • Kayaks • Rafts • Primitive Camping

417-588-RAFT (7238) www.mo-adventures.org Fun FLoat Trips - Flexible FLoat Times Directions: 15 miles east of Hwy. 65 at Louisburg or 14 miles west of Lebanon, 3.5 miles west of the Niangua River at Bennett Spring State Park.

1667 State Hwy. 64, Lebanon, MO 65536

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RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

OZARKS FLOAT TRIPPIN’

JUNE 2014

ROUTE 66 FLAVOR The Big Piney passes under two old Route 66 bridges. This one near Hooker, Mo., was built in 1942. Emery Styron photo.

Don’t confuse Big Piney’s Boiling Spring with one on Gasconade River

Continued from Page 12 Boiling Spring that rises from the floor of the Gasconade River near its junction with the Big Piney, east of Dixon, Mo. From mile 40 at Slabtown Access to the Ross take out before the Fort, is the MDC smallmouth special management area.

Below the Fort, the few miles to Shanghai Spring are shallow and rocky, but once flow from that spring enters, paddling becomes easier for the next six miles to the Gasconade.

It’s along this stretch where I’ve seen trophy smallmouth the size of small torpedos, not upstream.

Within two or three miles of the confluence with the Gasconade, more bass boats, fishermen and larger groups become noticeable; however the Piney never really becomes a “party river” as others are.

SCENERY TO SAVOR Limestone bluffs tower over a solitary kayaker on the Big Piney. Nolan Brunnworth photo.

GASCONADE’S BOILING SPRING Rising from the Gasconade River bottom at the base of a bluff, this Boiling Spring averages 42 millions of output per day, making it the state’s 14th largest. Note the difference in water color at the spring boil from the rest of the river. Emery Styron photo.

Gasconade meanders 253 miles from Hartville to join Big Muddy Continued from Page 12 After crossing the highway, and picking up water from some major springs and the Big Piney River, it becomes a midsize stream, with improved fishing productivity and greater numbers of powered boats.

This middle section is most popular for recreation, combining easy river access with adequate water.

From Vienna to the Missouri River, the Gasconade flows slow enough that motors are useful, and accesses are designed with powerboats in mind.

The Gasconade is another Missouri stream noted for its entrenched meanders where the river, following the hilly topography, will make 270 degree turns (roughly east or west and

MECCA FOR TROUT ANGLERS Bennett Spring State Park offers camping, cabins, swimming and hatcherystocked trout fishing. It’s a major outdoor recreation magnet that flows into the Niangua River. Barbara Gibbs Ostmann photo.

Why Float Any Where Else?

One-Eyed Willy’s 417-993-2628 372 Corkery Rd Lebanon, MO 65536 oneeyedwillys.com

CABINS • CANOES TUBES • RAFTS KARAOKE & BAND - WEEKENDS Visit our new CONCESSIONS & CATERING Whiskey River Gift Shop!

Memorial to Labor Day

back again) to snake around high hills and dramatic white dolomite hills and ridges.

With a few more eons of time, and a few more floods, these meanders may become cutoffs or oxbow lakes, with the river taking a more direct path from point A to C. Right now, this topography makes for fine floating and a good business model; if access roads cooperate, you can paddle ten miles in five miles road distance and avoid lengthy shuttles.

The northern one-third of the Gasconade widens out, grows deep, and flows slowly through flat to rolling farmland. It is not generally considered a recreational destination, although it is used as such locally,

If you’re bored at Niangua, it’s your own fault

Continued from previous page caters to Niangua tourists and those traveling thirty additional miles north to Lake of the Ozarks.

The Niangua is well known for bass, and having the glassy water to fly-fish for trout. It’s large enough to run with jonboats, manufactured nearby. If you cannot find enough to do on this river and nearby, you simply aren’t looking.

JUNE 2014

RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

NORTH FORK

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★ Twin Bridges Canoe & Campground

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Blue Ribbon Trout Area starts at Rainbow Spring

Kelly Ford

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KAYAK HAVEN Large springs make the North Fork ideal for kayaks and one of the best whitewater streams in the Ozarks. Flying R Ranch photo.

Flying R Ranch

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Location: Douglas, Ozark counties Floatable Length: 49.5 miles Difficulty: I to III in high water due to high gradient, occasional rocky drops.

Key Features: Swift, very clear, spring-fed wild trout and smallmouth stream. Wade and flyfishing common; remote in places, stream deepens below Double Spring. Unusual amount of river algae but good water quality. Runs into Lake Norfork at Tecumseh.

Recommended Guide: Flying R Ranch, flying-r-ranch.com; Riverside Canoe Rental, riversidecanoe.com; Twin Bridges Canoe & Campground, twinbridgescanoe.com

By Emery Styron f you want to be precise, call it Missouri's North Fork of the White River, but if you want to save some breath and sound like most folks, just say North Fork.

Whatever you choose to call it, the North Fork is as pristine and lovely a float stream as you’ll find in the Ozarks. As the Missouri Department of Conservation’s website puts it, “The North Fork of the White combines a relatively constant flow of clear water from large springs with some of the best whitewater in the Missouri Ozarks.” And trout fishing, too.

The North Fork and its major tributary, Bryant Creek, both rise in Douglas County. The North Fork meanders south, roughly parellel to Missouri 181 and past Missouri 14 into Ozark County, where it is fed by at least eight good springs and Bryant Creek before flowing into Norfork Lake south of U.S. 160 and Tecumseh.

Norfork Lake then stretches miles into

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Blue Ribbon Trout Area ends, Red Ribbon Trout Area starts Patrick Bridge at Patrick Bridge

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QUIET BEAUTY Few streams in the Ozarks offer more beauty and solitude than the North Fork. Emery Styron photo. northern Arkansas.

The North Fork’s upper reaches cross a huge chunk of Mark Twain National Forest straddling the Douglas-Howell County line, preserving its wild character and protecting its water quality.

A variety of outfitters populate the river between Missouri 14 and Norfork Lake, offering floats from five to 23-miles, including multi-day and combined Bryant Creek-North Fork excursions.

Trout fishng on the North Fork is a major attraction. The area between Rainbow Spring and Patrick Bridge is designated a Blue Ribbon Trout Area by the Missouri Department of Conservation. Blue Ribbon regulations include an 18-inch minimum

Tecumseh Bridge

limit on trout and a daily limit of one, were frequent and we even found one with only flies and artificial bait albubbling up in a gravel bar. lowed. Gigging of non-game fish is The area is quite remote, with West not permitted here.

Plains 15 to 20 miles east. Come Patrick Bridge to Norfork Lake is a prepared to camp or stay in a riverside Red Ribbon Trout Area. Red Ribcabin. bon regs call for a 15-inch minimum Bryant Creek, provides only slightly length and a daily limit of two trout. fewer paddling miles than the North Gigging of non-game fish is allowed.

Fork’s nearly 50 miles, and is con A friend and I floated from Hamsidered highly fishable. It has fewer mond Bridge to McKee Bridge a springs than the North Fork and less couple of years ago, not fishing, but volume. It’s home to the last commerjust enjoying the scenery, including cially operating watermill, Hodgson’s The Falls, a challenging 3-4 foot drop Mill, visible from Hwy. 181, which over a rock shelf. was powered by the state’s 15th larg The wild, undeveloped character of est spring well into the 1960s. the land and the everFloat the spring-fed North Fork & Bryant Creek! changing beauty of the rocks and water stick Float • Fish Camp •Relax! in my mind. The North Fork has an average Call 417-284-3043 5 Riverside Drive. gradient of 7.5 and is Caulfield, MO 65626 Enjoy camping as it was meant to be. rated I and II for difCanoes • Kayaks • Rafts Riverside or remote camping ficulty. We found that Motel rooms • Sleeping cabin the stream moved at a Family Vacations•Church Groups comfortable clip with Business Retreats•Reunions •Scouts Quiet hours 11 p.m. to 7 a.m. strictly enforced. few slow stretches.

Anglers welcome www.riversidecanoe.com • download brochure Springs feeding the river On Missouri’s Famous North Fork River

Twin Bridges CANOE & CAMPGROUND INC.

Canoes, Kayaks, Rafts and Toobs Just for You on the North Fork

417-256-7507 twinbridgescanoe@gmail.com

We cover all 52 miles of river!

We’re at Hwy. 14 and 181 in the heart of the Mark Twain Forest

Camp and float on the North Fork River in the heart of the Ozarks at Flying R Ranch Canoe and Kayak Floats Log Cabins, RV Campsites, Tent Sites & Bunkhouse rooms Lodge Restaurant and Hitch N Post store with hand dipped ice cream cones and floats, snacks, apparel, gifts and much more.

417-469-2267

www.flying-r-ranch.com

in the unspoiled Ozarks along the North Fork River... a perfect getaway for you or your group.

CALL 417 - 256 - 7507

Our beautiful namesake bridges

31 years of float experience

to reserve floating and your favorite type of space to stay.

Visit www.twinbridges.com for online reservations or a color brochure with all our details.

We are full service - from tents to log homes, from solos to church and youth groups. One and two day float trips on the North Fork.

Ask about our Hunting and Fishing Club

accessible only by foot from Hwy. E. Paddling the upper St. Francis without a helmet and prior whitewater experience elsewhere is dubious, for most people, but a “bunny slope” experience can be had on one of the Saint’s tributaries, Big Creek.

In spring and early summer, a 10mile float from Des Arc to the confluence inside Sam A. Baker State Park takes the paddler through the Big Creek Shut-ins, sometimes class III, but much gentler and shallower than its big brother upstream. As a friend, Joe Light, told me: “Be advised, whichever route you select to navigate through the rocks, it will be the wrong way, so be prepared to get a little wet.”

If even that level of excitement is a bit much, a 10-mile section of the

St. Joe St. Park

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By Jo Schaper he St. Francis River differs from all other Missouri float streams (save the upper forks of the Black) in that it runs almost entirely over igneous rock, through shut-ins and down double digit gradients not for the inexperienced or faint of heart for the first 40 miles.

Over 80% of whitewater paddling in Missouri occurs between mile markers 20.2 (Millstream Gardens Conservation Area) and 23.2, the Hwy. D Silver Mines campground, home every spring to the Missouri Whitewater Association competition, run mostly by kayak or decked canoe.

Even that section of river is put to shame by a nearby 80-foot over halfmile section of Little Rock Creek,

Bismarck (Desalvo) Lake

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Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park

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Igneous rock bed gives St. Francis exciting character

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Country Store

ST. FRANCIS Location: St. Francois, Madison, Wayne counties. Upper Big Creek: Iron County Floatable Length: 78.6 miles above Lake Wappapello, continues below reservoir.

Difficulty: I-III, upper section IV, to V in flood Key Features: The Upper St. Francis Tiemann ShutIns to Silver Mines contains floatable whitewater; smaller shut-ins continue until about the Little St. Francis enters. The next 40 miles is wide and shallow, difficulty I-II, and slows below Sam A. Baker State Park. Sunfish, smallmouth bass, walleye and goggle eye, look for St. Francis mussels. Big Creek Shut-ins can be run in spring and early summer.

Recommended Outfitter: Sam A. Baker State Park concession, samabaker.com/

STE. GENEVIEVE

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RIVER HILLS TRAVELER

St. Francois State Park

8

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8

20

BONNE TERRE

47

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Cherokee Pass Restaurant Y

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72 Bollinger Meat Mill St. Pk. 34

Market RT ZZ Glenallen

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CAPE GIRARDEAU

Lake Girardeau

49

St. Francis can be run with a selfshuttle to Head Ford, off County Road 302, and takeout at the park. Another popular, short run is the park to Hwy. 34 bridge. A report on that section is, “a nice paddle. Pretty, but not too exciting, and it wasn’t too crowded on

a Friday.”

The state park is located about 12 river miles above Greenville, where the Saint becomes Wappapello Lake.

The store can help with float arrangements.

Sam A. Baker State Park Spring and Fall Specials Stay 3 nights get the 4th Free

Before Memorial Weekend - After Labor Day

CABINS OPEN!

HOURS

Wed. - Thurs. - Fri. 4 p.m. - 8 p.m.

Sat. 8 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Sun. 8 a.m. - 2 p.m.

March 28 to Nov. 16

Park Store:

Lodge Restaurant

ATM •Propane •Souvenirs •Ice •Beer •Firewood •Camping & Fishing Supplies

Daily Canoe, Kayak & Raft Rental 573-856-4224 Restaurant 573-856-4223 Store Hwy 143 • Patterson MO

Celebrating the Ozarks

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Shop online at riverhillstraveler.com or visit our office in St. Clair, MO

Traveler Extras • Mo-Go: Your

print & online planning tool for Missouri outdoor excursions. Visit Mo-Go.net.

• TravTalk. Your free weekly e-newsletter of Ozarks outdoors headlines and happenings.

To start your FREE TravTalk subscription, email estyron@rhtrav. com

av.com> headlines and happenings River Hills Traveler" <estyron@rhtr of Missouri outdoor From: "Emery Styron, your free weekly e-newsletter Subject: [Test] TravTalk, 9:31:15 AM CDT Date: May 10, 2013 >> <estyron@rhtrav.com> To: << Test First Name ailchimp.com> f0a-5140917784@inbound.m Reply-To: <us2-5f61a59

TravTalk No. 6: New Traveler morel recipes & more!

Poll, Missouri ghost stories,

Volume 1, No. 6, May

more elk coming,

10, 2013

er of Missouri outdoors

Your weekly e-newslett

View this email in your

s

headlines & happening

bowling as fishing, shooting, chess, New Traveler Poll: Bassactivities? What do you think? sanctioned high school

High that the Missouri State Last week we told you has sanctioned bass School Activities Association high bowling and chess as fishing, target shooting, next year. school activities starting

we just taking up more Vote in Traveler's poll.

connection with the Will this improve our kids' students involved? Are outdoors? Will it get more non-academic activities?

education resources with

stories about Missouri Missouri Shadows: ghost Terry's book Dan Haven, MO, policeman Jo Schaper reviews New througout Missouri. detailing ghost sightings

To subscribe call 800-874-8423 or visit riverhillstraveler.com

browser

places

knowledge of the training in forensics, his Terry brings his professional a fair amount of interviewing skills, plus rules of evidence, his haunted Missouri to a number of allegedly “ghostbusting” equipment to Jackson counties. to Hornet, and Jefferson locations, from Hannibal Do you have a Missouri

ghost story you'd like

to share? We'd like to

hear about it.

on habitat council at Peck

Rocky Mountain Elk Foundati

Ranch

Department volunteers and Missouri On Monday, May 6 RMEF red carpet — members rolled out the of Conservation team final installment of arrival mid-May of the burlap that is — for the 35 elk from Kentucky.

A handful of yummy morel

recipes

River Hills Traveler sources as varied mushroom recipes from Jo Schaper shares morel Bourdain.

Martha Stewart and Anthony as Pat Todd, Cy Littlebee, of mushrooms would bring her a batch She's wishing someone already fried up.

Serving the Ozarks since 1973

Located at 780 N. Commercial (Old Route 66) in St. Clair, MO • 40 miles southwest of St. Louis on I-44 Office hours 10-5 Thursdays & Fridays • Phone calls answered 9-6 Monday thru Saturday • Major credit cards accepted

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