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JULY 2017
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Here’s how to photograph the eclipse By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
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age temperature of 50-55 degrees year-round. It flows at the average rate of 220 million gallons per day. The spring comes out of two sources from the ground. From under the mouth of a cave and down a little further where it comes up as a “bubble� or “washing machine.� The spring is 1 mile long and flows into the Eleven Point River. It is managed by the U.S. Forest Service. It is located about 18 miles south of Winona off of Highway 19. The Greer Spring Acquisition and Protection Act of 1991 established
any people are preparing for the Aug. 21 total solar eclipse by deciding where to go and booking hotels. But has anyone stopped to think about how to photograph the eclipse? Whether you are photographing it from a cell phone or an actual camera, there are certain precautions to take before taking pictures. There have been several discussions online about whether or not it is safe to point a camera directly at the sun. “Most digital cameras have an auto mode in which it will automatically reduce the exposure speed and increase the f/stop to take the photo, and this will not harm the camera. However, you will need to point the camera at the sun, and you will no doubt accidentally glimpse the full-on solar disk and that could damage your eyes if you prolong it,� said Dr. Sten Odenwald, astronomer and director of NASA/HEC Citizen Science. Proper solar eclipse eyewear is available online and several Missouri towns celebrating the eclipse will have viewing glasses available during the day. It is very important that everyone wear the glasses when instructed to prevent eye damage from the sun.
Please see GREER, 15
Please see ECLIPSE, 12
You can not only hear the "roaring" of the spring flowing along, but actually feel it through your body.
Greer Spring is one of Missouri’s most beautiful natural treasures By Dana Sturgeon s I began to descend on the trail, I suddenly heard a sound in the distance. It was a soft sound at first. But as I kept hiking downhill, it became louder and louder, like a roaring sound. It seemed to draw me like a magnet. I wanted to see where this noise was coming from. Then, I saw it! A mighty rush out of a mouth of a cave. Beautiful emerald green and blue water. Greer Springs. What a beautiful natural treasure. Greer Springs is the largest spring
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found on the National Forest land in the United States. It is the second largest in the state of Missouri (first being, Big Springs). It has an aver-
Thousands attend ONSR quarter launch ceremony By Heath Wood eing born and raised in beautiful Shannon County, I sometimes catch myself taking for granted how many amazing landmarks and so-called natural areas there are in my backyard that attract thousands of people a year. One of those often visited attractions is the historic Alley Spring Mill
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near Eminence, Mo. My whole childhood I lived within 25 minutes of this picturesque attraction. Throughout those years I have attended picnics, school functions, weddings, company picnics, Halloween events, and hundreds of visits with my family and friends just to swim in the Jacks Fork River, which Please see ALLEY, 14 The Alley Mill quarter is one of the best things to happen to Missouri in a long time.
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Here’s why I don’t shoot these brown-head birds
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t gets harder, as I think more about things, to shoot something just because I disagree with it’s lifestyle. It was not so hard to shoot a big blacksnake last summer that was crawling up an oak tree to eat the little bluebirds in a bluebird box I had attached to it. He made me realize that I need to take that box off a tree and put it on a steel post, then keep the post greased so his descendants can’t climb it. It is easy to shoot the occasional copperhead that ventures too close to my home here on this wilderness hilltop we call lightnin’ ridge. As I get older, instead of heading for the lake or river early in the morning, I make a cup of coffee and sit out on my screened porch; looking at the patch of grass and plant life we jokingly refer to as a “yard” or “lawn.” Larry It is a place for Dablemont occasional wild———— flowers and mushLightnin’ rooms, rabbits, and Ridge all kinds of birds. Some snakes, like the hognose or garter snake or blueracer, may cross it safely, as do terrapins or a variety of lizards. The lizards occasionally fall prey to the yellow-billed cuckoos, which us Ozark country folks call “raincrows.” Normally I would never shoot a bird in my backyard, but there is one I ought to pick off with my .22 rifle every time I see one… the brownheaded cowbird. Yesterday, there they were, hopping around in my backyard, beneath the big oaks, a male and a female cowbird of the brown-headed variety. Only the male has the brown head. The female is gray. Though only the male is brownheaded, I think both of them are blackhearted, because they are like so many of us in the Ozarks — they are too lazy to work to provide for their offspring. That does not include me. I worked hard to make a good life for my offspring without causing difficulty for my neighbors. When my daughters left the nest, they left a nest I had built myself. This cannot be said of the brownheaded, black-hearted cowbird. They build no nest, they find one made by a cardinal or bluejay or mockingbird and kick those eggs out of the nest, laying
their own in the nest where returning birds of some other species will hatch and raise their young for them. You would think that any bird would be wise to this, but they aren’t, displaying the traits for which we refer to really dumb folks normally found in suburbs of big cities, as “bird-brains”! At any rate, now that I have made many city people mad at me, let me tell you why I let those brown-head birds venture off on their own to do what they do without being shot. The male, all black except for his brown head, was following that smaller gray hen around, standing straight and high, then huffing up his feathers to make him look taller and wider than he really is, throwing his brown head forward, making him look hunch-backed and disheveled. That quite often makes the female receptive to mating with him. Who knows why that would be, he looks awful doing that. It didn’t work that day. She was apparently quite hungry and seemed to be trying to get away from him. He really looked stupid running around on the grass and leaf litter right below my place on the screened porch, huffing up and hunching over. It reminded me that I had often done something similar as a youth, trying to show off my muscles and getting some girl to notice me. It never seemed to work for me any better than it did for him. Eventually they both flew up on a white-oak branch only a few feet from where I sat drinking my coffee whilst I listened to an old gobbler sounding off down the ridge from my nest… er, I mean house.
I could have plugged the two cowbirds with my .22 rifle, but it would mean making a pair of holes in the screen of about 1/5th of an inch, big enough to let in a fly or mosquito later in the summer. So I left it to the Great Creator to deal them justice for their evil ways. But really it seems as if he has been overlooking a great deal of evil everywhere lately. I may, later this summer, take things into my own hands and shoot their progeny, even if it will upset some mama cardinal or brown thrasher that raised them. You wonder why God created things like brown-headed cowbirds or copperheads, or cockleburs. I guess he had
His reasons, and as I see the perfection of His hand in the woods and streams not yet ruined by the hand of man, I feel a lot better than I do sitting on the porch watching some devilish blacksnake trying to eat my baby bluebirds. Then I begin to think that the blacksnake and I aren’t so much different. I wouldn’t eat a baby rabbit or squirrel for anything, but I would sure eat either one this winter when they are grown up. If the blacksnake waits until everything grows up, he will starve to death. It likely is best for me not to get into such deep thinking as I sit on the porch and drink coffee. I am fairly sure God didn’t create me for any deep thinking! It is best to get up early and head for the river and try to catch some fivepound, evil-minded largemouth, which might eat a baby wood duck or a whole household of young crawdads in his self-indulgent whims. I think that is perhaps what God put me on earth for… to stand up for the weak and defenseless, catching evil bass and evil catfish and evil walleye. But the cowbird episode shows me I am getting too old for such purposes, growing too kind-hearted to do what should be done. However, through this column I might encourage others to keep a shotgun handy and shoot every cowbird and copperhead they see. In such a manner, I continue to be of some value, straightening out Mother Nature in her misguided ways. (Larry Dablemont lives in southwest Missouri. He can be reached by email at lightninridge@windstream.net, or by phone at 417-777-5227.)
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July 2017 • Page 3A
Tourists & locals using state’s welcome centers By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
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ost people think that welcome centers are only for those who are traveling through the area or are not from around here, but in several cases welcome centers in Missouri are assisting local residents looking for something new to do. “Every year we get several people that come in and plan their vacation for the year,” said Pam Ebbinghaus, manager at the St. Louis Welcome Center. The St. Louis Welcome Center gets about 48,000 visitors a year coming from the east, traveling westbound. “We get visitors from Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, and Wisconsin and in the summer they come from anywhere. We’ve had people from Japan and Australia before,” said Ebbinghaus. In St. Louis, the welcome center's busiest months are in the summertime. “We have been very busy starting in May, but we are usually busy from the start of summer and well into fall,” said Ebbinghaus. In the fall months they get several people wanting to know about winery tours and festivals. “Once kids go back to school, we get a lot of adults wanting to know about all the festivals going on in the fall,” said Ebbinghaus. When visitors come into the center, the staff asks them what they are interested in, in order to help them find something they will enjoy. “If they are interested in flowers, we refer them to the botanical gardens. If they like history, we give them a list of historic museums. If they want family fun, we send them to Six Flags, the City Musuem, or the St. Louis Carousel by the Butterfly House,” said Ebbinghaus. There are nine welcome centers in the state operated by the Missouri Division of Tourism, each located on a major highway or interstate: • Hannibal, on Highway 61 South. • Joplin, on Interstate 44 at the Mile Marker 2 Rest Area.
Each summer many children and adults enjoy learning how to ride a Segway at Branson Segway.
• Kansas City, on the Blue Ridge Cut-Off. • Hayti, at Mile Marker 20 on Interstate 55. • Rock Pork, on Interstate 29 South. • St. Louis, on Interstate 270 at Riverview Drive. • Eagleville, on Interstate 35 at exit 112. • Conway-West, on Interstate 44. • Conway-East, on Interstate 44. The types of historic places the St. Louis Welcome Center refers visitors to include the Scott Joplin House, the Missouri History Musuem, White Haven, Grant’s Cabin, and Old Town St. Charles. “We get several ladies groups that we send to Old Town St. Charles because they enjoy that type of historic feel,” said Ebbinghaus. In addition to museums, the St. Louis center claims that they get several people who are interested in cemeteries because of the history. “I think some of the strangest things we get asked is how to pronounce Missouri, why it’s called the Show-
Me State, and what the population of a certain city is,” said Ebbinghaus. The Anheuser Bush Brewery Tours is another attraction the St. Louis Welcome Center refers people to. “They give free tours and people find it very interesting to see the brewing history of America,” said Ebbinghaus. When it comes to the Conway-East Welcome Center, they get several questions about Route 66 and area Civil War history. “We have three different brochures and books on battle lines in Missouri, but we usually send them to the Civil War Museum in St. Louis,” said Valarie Nash, manager of the Conway-East Welcome Center. For Conway, the busiest time of the year is April through Thanksgiving. “We get several visitors from all over that are interested in totally different things. We get people asking about Route 66, history, and sights to see along their journey,” said Nash. Most travelers that stop at the Conway-East center are traveling west, toward Branson. “We also get several people interested in what the state bird is, the state flower, and the state tree,” said Nash.
The Missouri History Museum in St. Louis.
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Did you know Missouri has 1,050 miles of navigable rivers?
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he Ozark Heritage Project (OHP) will host its annual Lower Current River Cleanup on Saturday, July 8. This will be the ninth year the nonprofit has held this event on the Lower Current, and this year registration will be available at Log Yard and at the boat ramp in Van Buren; both places from 810 a.m. OHP’s Current River Power Team will provide trash bags and work gloves for volunteers. Jimmy Sexton A meal will be ———— served at Log Yard Journey On around 1:30 p.m. and free T-shirts will be distributed as well as door prizes for Most Trash, Largest Single Group of Volunteers and other awards given. As with all OHP events, activities will be started with a prayer in recognition of God's establishment of our beautiful hills and streams and in petitioning His guidance for our stewardship.
T-shirts are being sold to help fund OHP’s many activities. Shirts may be ordered and picked up at numerous local businesses, including the city hall and Holt’s Sales in Van Buren, Rocky’s Barbershop in Winona, Rowden’s Express in Eminence, and Ellington Auto Parts, Don’s Place and the Orange Blossom — all in Ellington. OHP has been instrumental in removing debris and water hazards form Missouri streams for nearly a decade, and has removed more than seven tons already in 2017. They have also been instrumental in some building preservation in state parks (including Montauk) and again co-hosted the massive river cleanup
with NPS/ONSR earlier this spring. Other upcoming events include addressing water hazards in Jacks Fork and being part of an effort to remove much of the debris from Jacks Fork river bottoms later this summer. Shirts are only $15 or two for $25 and are available in two colors. Their purchase supports these efforts as well as show community support for our clean streams. Anyone with questions is encouraged to call the OHP at (573) 663-2269. ——— MoDOT's mission includes responsibility for other modes of transportation such as rail, river, air and public transportation. In these areas, most of MoDOT's funding comes from federal sources or from state funds that must be appropriated by the State Legislature because the State Road Fund revenues are constitutionally required to be spent on roads and bridges. Some MoDOT facts that might interest you include: • Aviation — Missouri has 123 public-use airports and 35 business-capable airports. • Railroads — Missouri has 4,822 miles of mainline railroad track.
Kansas City and St. Louis are the nation's second- and third-largest freight rail hubs. Missouri has the 10th largest rail network with the 4th most tonnage carried. • Waterways — Missouri has 1,050 miles of navigable rivers and 14 public river ports, including St. Louis that is the third largest inland port in the U.S. • Public transit — Some 63 million public transit trips are made by Missourians per year. Some form of public transportation exists in all 114 Missouri counties and the City of St. Louis. • Freight development — Missouri is ideally suited to become a national freight leader due to its extensive transportation network and central U.S. location. Trucks, planes, barges and trains in Missouri move 1.1 billion tons of freight each year valued at $1.2 trillion. • Bicycle & pedestrian — MoDOT has approximately 600 miles of shareduse paths on the state system, and works with planning partners to create transportation facilities that accommodate non-motorized travel. (Jimmy Sexton is owner and publisher of the River Hills Traveler. He can be reached at (800) 874-8423, ext. 1, or jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com.)
Some sundry snake superstitions of the Ozarks you haven’t heard
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never much cared for snakes. I know some are good to have around, such as black snakes and king snakes, which help keep the rodent population down. King snakes also supposedly kill venomous snakes. Still, I’m just not a fan of any kind of snake. I once had a green snake drop out of a walnut tree, right at my feet. Startled the bejezus out of me. The slithery creature was harmless, of course. Still made me jump back with a shout, though. Folklorist Vance Randolph had some things to share about snakes. These were superstitions and beliefs he had picked up from Ozarkers in the first Wes Franklin few decades of the ———— 20th century. FortuNative Ozarker nately, he jotted it all down. Take, for instance, that green tree snake I mentioned. According to Randolph, a lot of folks in the Ozarks used to believe the green tree snake was actually a “doctor” of sorts in the snake world. Oh yeah. He supposedly heals other snakes when they are sick or injured. This notion came around when the green tree snake was seemingly often found in the same vicinity as wounded snakes. As to the aforementioned king snake, they are immune to venom. The Ozarker of yesteryear said that is because when they are doing battle with a copperhead or rattlesnake, they nibble on a plant called snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae), which is in the daisy family. The leaves were thought to be an antidote to poisonous venom. Randolph knew people who believed in “milk snakes.” These are serpents who feed by attaching themselves to a cow’s udder and sucking the milk. The same folks may have also believed in the mythical “hoop snake,” which tucks
its tail into its mouth and rolls in a hoop toward its victim. If you find your baby playing with a snake, remove the child from danger but don’t kill the snake, says the old superstition. If you kill the snake, the baby will also die within a matter of a short time. My brother recently killed what we at first thought was a blacksnake. If it had been, he wouldn’t have killed it, but though black in color it didn’t actually look like a blacksnake. It had brown designs on its back and its head was shaped more like that of a copperhead. It turned out to likely be a non-venomous water snake, according to photos on the internet. Odd thing is, we were about a quarter-mile away from the nearest creek. We may have misidentified it too, though. Some folks used to believe that water snakes, namely the poisonous cottonmouth, won’t bite you underwater. Others believed that they can bite when underwater, but can’t release their venom. I don’t believe I ever want to find out. You will never find this guy noodling under some rock. Never. Supposedly, if you drop a horsehair into a stream during the summertime, it will instantly transform into a snake. It was also commonly believed that timber rattlers grew hair, according to Randolph. Folks used to plant gourds all around their house as a method to keep the snakes away. Supposedly a snake won’t cross the gourd line. Burning old shoes in the fireplace was a method to drive any snakes out of the house, if they
happened to get in. I am more apt to believe in the gourd custom. We did have a big blacksnake invade the house once, when I was a kid. My mother chopped it up with a hoe. The linoleum forever bore the scars of the great battle. If you are bit by a snake you are to burn the snake immediately, even before seeking medical attention, says the old Ozark superstition recorded by Mr. Randolph. Please note, this is a superstition. If you get snake-bit, go to the hospital. I realize I don’t have to say that, but you never know. I’m rarely surprised anymore. I have an uncle who was bit by a coral snake when he was a boy. Coral snakes are a Southern snake. They have small mouths but are very poisonous. In my uncle’s case, my grandfather cut open the tiny bite wound with a pocket knife and squeezed out as much poisoned blood as he could before bringing his son to the hospital. My uncle is still going strong today, at age 75. One old Ozark snakebite treatment was to stick the wounded appendage in a bucket of kerosene. Other folks used a poultice of soap and salt (I presume the soap was for disinfecting and the salt to draw out the poisoned blood). You can also eat the boiled leaves from the snakeweed plant mentioned earlier. I’ve never been bitten by a snake of any kind, but I think if I do I’ll just go to the emergency room. Of course, back when Randolph recorded these beliefs and customs, travel was much harder and slower, and the nearest doctor could be many miles away. People had to tend to themselves. It’s good to be self-reliant, but as long as we can get to a hospital much
On the Cover A couple enjoys a sunset at Lake of the Ozarks State Park. Wish you were here? Get in your vehicle and make it happen!
(photo courtesy of www.funlake.com)
quicker these days, I’m going there. And I still don’t like snakes. (Wes Franklin can be reached at 417658-8443 or cato.uticensis46@gmail. com.)
River Hills Traveler 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850 Phone & Fax: 800-874-8423 www.riverhillstraveler.com Email: jimmy@riverhillstraveler. com Owner & Publisher Jimmy Sexton Managing Editor Madeleine Link Circulation Manager Amanda Harvel Staff Writers Heath Wood, Wes Franklin, Mike Roux, Bill Wakefield, Bill Oder, Bill Cooper, Michelle Turner & Dana Sturgeon Advertising All of us River Hills Traveler, established in 1973, is published monthly by Sexton Media Group and Traveler Publishing Company at 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Postmaster: Send change of address notices to: River Hills Traveler, 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Subscription prices: $22 per year; 2 years, $40. Back issues available up to one year from publication, $5 plus sales tax & shipping. COPYRIGHT © 2017 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher of the River Hills Traveler or his duly appointed agent. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial submission for any reason.
RiverHillsTraveler.com
July 2017 • Page 5A
OUTDOOR FINES
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he Missouri Conservation Commission met on Thursday, June 22, for its closed executive session, and on Friday, June 23, for its regular open meeting at the MDC St. Louis Regional Office at the August A. Busch Memorial Conservation Area. The Commission: • Approved the advertisement and sale of an estimated 734,114 board feet of timber located on 240 acres of Compartment 9, Clearwater Conservation Area in Reynolds County. • Approved the advertisement and sale of an estimated 907,047 board feet of timber located on 324 acres of Compartment 2, Fourche Creek Conservation Area in Ripley County. The Commission also: Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, or trapping privileges of 12 individuals for a variety of different causes: • Christopher J. Bates, Moberly, fishing, one year; • Tommy L. Calvert, Rich Hill, hunting & trapping, one year; • Jessica L. Conley, Kirksville, all sports, one year;
• Corey A. Cooper, Joplin, hunting, one year; • Paul E. Glaser, Pleasant Hope, hunting, two years; • Tracy G. Lunceford, Mexico, all sports, one year; • Corbin C. Mertgen, Warsaw, hunting, three years; • Andrew A. Moesch, Stover, hunting, 10 years; • John T. Morgan, Fisk, hunting, one year; • Christopher J. Nichols, Edina, hunting, one year; • Travis L. Sharp, Taylor, hunting, one year; and • Jesse L. Silvey, Liberty, hunting & fishing, one year. Suspended or revoked all hunting and fishing privileges of 203 individuals who are not in compliance with applicable child support laws. Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, and trapping privileges of 233 individuals in accordance with the terms of the Interstate Wildlife Violator Compact. The Commission’s next meeting is schedule for August.
VINTAGE OZARKS: Hogs
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eal photo postcard by Hall. Probably taken in Stone County, Missouri, but Arkansas sounded more primitive. The hog’s board collar is to keep it out of fenced gardens. Cattle and hogs were released in the woods to feed themselves. The destructive rooting of feral pigs was, and still is, an environmental problem. Though the hillbilly icon didn’t emerge for several decades, the Ozarks has been depicted as a primitive place inhabited by people living a pioneer lifestyle since the early 1800s. This mythos was rejected by progressive Springfieldians, but in Galena, and the White River Hills, it was a component of tourism. Arkansas was held to be slightly more regressive than southern Missouri, but only slightly so. (This feature is courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Their new book, James Fork of the White, will be published in 2017. Some pages from this book can be seen on www.beautifulozarks.com. Their earlier river book, Damming the Osage, can be at seen www.dammingtheosage.com)
REMEMBER WHEN From the July archives of the River Hills Traveler: 5 years ago • Sometimes I tell people my job with the Traveler for most of its 40 years has been to go fishing in neat places and write about it. Yeah. But I also have a fierce allegiance to this particular part of the world, especially the natural world here. This is a special place and it has been a privilege to cover it as a journalist. (Bob Todd) • I remember exactly when Traveler entered my life. That in Itself speaks volumes. Heck, I even have a hard time remembering relatives names. Traveler Bob and Pat Todd’s original creation, literally helped shape the lives of my family and me. (Greg Rudi Rudroff) 10 years ago • It ain’t often that an ‘ol gar gets a bunch of attention, but there was certainly plenty of it in late May when the Conservation Department stocked a handful of alligator gars in Mingo National Wildlife Refuge. Kathleen Burchett, Mingo manager, said, “A lot of people go through a career without being part of a species reintroduction. You can’t imagine how excited I am.” Indeed, she’s the architect of the Mingo reintroduction. She’s been working for seven years to bring back this fish that was once a component of Mingo’s historic ecosystem. (Bob Todd) • We sometimes measure the passing of time by recurring events. Like the fishing trip my son Bo and I usually do on Father’s Day. To start out at daybreak this time of year requires getting up very early. For Bo, it was about 3 a.m. to get to my house in time to head for the St. Francis River. We got there and had the canoe in the water not long after 5. But we could have been 30 minutes sooner. (Bob Todd) 15 years ago • The role of competition in fishing…. Pat and I had been to the weighing of a smallmouth tournament on Current River the day before, and as a personal preference, I’d affirmed yet again that tournament fishing isn’t my thing. (Bob Todd) • For most parts of Missouri, a change in the Missouri deer season for 2002 is minor. For much of southeast Missouri, however, the change is huge. For this fall, you can take a deer of either sex without getting any deer tag. No applications. No drawings. Buy a deer tag and it is good for any deer.
Even the botheel, where taking of females has never been legal, your tag will cover ether sex this fall. (Bob Todd) 20 years ago • When my mother arrived in Missouri for a twoweek visit, we informed her that she was scheduled for a canoe trip down the Jacks Fork River. The look she gave me said: “Oh, you’re just trying to scare me.” “I’m not joking,” I responded to her look. “You mean raft, don’t you? Over the phone you said raft.” “Well, that’s true, Ma, but uh… things have sort of changed. Now we’re going in a canoe. But don’t worry, it’s an inflatable canoe. Big soft cushions of air all around you.” (Ray Facteau) • Holding the jar at arm’s length I cracked that lid a little bit and the smell almost took my nose off. Thank goodness the wind wasn’t in my face. What in the world is in there, I asked my friend? Doc thought this was extremely funny that I could smell it with the lid still on. It was a new batch of Doc’s homemade dip bait. His wife and I know he has to make this stuff in the shed, because even on the back porch the smell sometimes gets into the house. (Charley Schmidt) 25 years ago • The fish looked to be three pounds. Ozark walleye always excite me, and I guess I just saw it as bigger. Catching a walleye was a priority for the trip to Castor River with Steve Ramey, and as it turned out, about the only priority we managed to accomplish. (Bob Todd) • On June 4, Ozarkers got a small taste of what can happen if Missouri does not tighten its regulation of mining companies and provide enough of an enforcement arm to see that regulations are followed. (Bob Todd) 30 years ago • Ordinarily, we save trips that involve much walking in the woods for cool weather. But we figured we
could make two miles before it got hot, so when we had an opportunity to hike the Pickle Springs area, we took it. Pickle Springs is a Conservation Department natural area featuring sandstone box canyons, something most folks have never seen in Missouri. • Things that carry through… The family had begun to gather here Saturday, and by Sunday, the bulk of the crowd was on hand. Pat was leading a tour of the office, explaining how the process camera works. Apparently she was telling more than anyone really wanted to know and the least of the group, a 7-yearold Hannah, let her know it. “Well, I have to go now,” she said when Pat paused. Through the rest of the week, if a relative or in-law was starting to bore, “Well, I have to go now” put an end to that. (Bob Todd) 35 years ago • If a person wasn’t aware of it sooner he should have become suspicious when the fellow in charge of starting the tournament didn’t have a watch. And then late… and no one particularly noticed. (Bob Todd) 40 years ago • Quiet in the Osage encampment, no singing, no chanting or morning prayer. Not even any snoring during the night and most of all no gunfire. Even though the people are hungry and the nearby stream has many ducks in it, there is no gunfire. The place is probably somewhere in eastern Colorado beyond the western limit of trees, even along the streams observed as events unfold. (Bob Todd)
‘Blood in the Ozarks’ D
eep in the eastern Ozarks of Missouri, a battle still rages about a Union massacre of Southern civilians that happened on Christmas Day, 1863. While some call it a simple rescue mission to liberate captured Union soldiers, others claim that it was mass murder, which included women and children. $17.00 + $4.00 s/h order online at www.bloodintheozarks.com or by mail by sending check or money order to: Blood in the Ozarks 807 Englehart Ln Marble Hill, MO 63764
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Timber Charcoal is made right here in Missouri
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o you remember as a kid watching your dad pour black, lightweight charcoal that “tinkled” as it piled up on the BBQ grill? Did you recognize the charcoal even had growth rings, cells and bark? The charcoal could even be snapped in two easily then used to draw on the concrete hopscotch or ticktack-toe games. Is that REAL CHARCOAL a thing of the past? NOPE! It is made right here in Missouri (Timber Missouri), Timber Charcoal! Where is Timber? Well, if you have been to Eminence or our newest state park, Echo Bluff, and were going south on Highway 19, you passed it. Yep, there are at least two structures visible from Highway 19 in Bob Brennecke Timber and usually a few tractors ———— and trailers parked off the road to the entrance to Timber Charcoal on the east. Being a member of a trailer club — (WBCCI) Wally Byam Caravan Club International — we were having a trailer rally at Echo Bluff. Wherever we go we try to have entertainment and/or tours of interesting places. Echo Bluff was certainly beautiful, the “Crown Jewel” if you are looking for up-to-date lodging, roads, camping, programs, hiking trails and facilities, all very nice. I only found a few negative items. One of which
was the campground sanitary dump station. The dump station had a raised or elevated receptacle for releasing waste, and we all know what (flows downhill) from a waste tank. Special considerations should be taken unless you have a fifth wheel or super-high trailer dump tank. I will say no more. Echo Bluff is located on Sinking Creek north of Eminence and south of Salem with Shannondale Mission Church and camp between, just north of Timber. The location is perfect with the Ozark Mountains surrounding the camps and the presence of nature all around including one of the two or three herds of wild horses roaming the National Forest. These horses roam at will, wild in front of the lodge, around the campsites and cabins crossing Sinking Creek, contented and looking healthy and happy. As some people know, Eminence seems to be a mecca for horse riding, floating on the Current River and riding all-terrain vehicles. Getting back to charcoal, Todd Hamilton is one of the family-owned, owner-operators that gave our group a tour. While standing in the storage lot between thousands of board feet of wood slabs and “trash” wood, Todd explained how the plant worked. He said that anyone could make charcoal by an easy process of setting fire to a covered pile of wood and allowing it to burn for a prescribed time, then shut off all oxygen, then let it cool. The hardest parts of making charcoal is controlling the oxygen and air pollution regulations set by the government. When setting fire to a stack of lumber
20 feet high, 30 foot wide and 55 feet long, regulating the burn and burning the wood with air quality clean air emissions of 99.5 percent is the kicker. Todd explained their immense emissions control system which sat above the kilns and was likened to a catalytic device that is on our car emission system. Everyone at Timber Charcoal was friendly, courteous, knowledgeable, hardworking and BLACK AS CHARCOAL, of course, because it was a charcoal plant. It was raining that day and this is the only time I had ever walked in a black charcoal paste puddle. Todd explained that charcoal made at Timber Charcoal was shipped around the Midwest under other names, and used for different things, like briquettes, medicines, gunpowder, cosmetics, and even BBQing. Many of the high-end smokers and pits recommend “natural hardwood charcoal” to enhance the flavors of the foods that are cooked in them. One thing Todd reiterated was that their product was 100 percent all natural, no binders, no additives and burned clean. We used Timber Charcoal on our outdoor cooking while at camp and were very happy with the startup of the charcoal and the end results. All of us who went on the tour of Timber Charcoal were surprised with the immensity of the operation and found all aspects of the charcoal making process very interesting. I can’t wait to try Todd’s suggestion to lay steaks directly on hot coals and cook the meat quickly at 1,100 degrees, sounds great! (Bob Brennecke lives in Ballwin, Mo., and can be reached at robertbrennecke@hotmail.com.)
The e Gre Great e Am merican Ec E lip Eclip pse On Aug. 21, 2017 7,, a total solar eclipse e willl cut a swath across Missouri on its path over over 12 United United States. For about two minutes, the sky within the path, path about 70 miles wide, will go dark. This period of darkness is called totality. A totall solar eclipse happenns somewhere in the world at least once a year. In the Continental U.S., the last tottal solar eclipse was in 1979. Buut it has been 148 years since d li h went out somewhe daylight here in Missouri, and 575 years since the last totall solar eclipse in the central part off the state. 9 What was happening in 1869 when Missouri had the last total solarr eclipse? Ulysses S. Grant became president,
Create a Solar Ecllipse Model
Jesse James robbed his firsst bank, a “golden spike” markked thhe first transcontinental railroad, a the Cincinnati Red S Stockings open the season as the first fully professionaal b baseball team.
In this activity, you willl creeate a replica off a solar eclipse. Materials Needed: Flashlight or Ta Table Lamp (represents ( the sun), Soccer orr Soft Ball (repressents the earth), Ping Pong Ball (representts the moon), Wire or String, Ta Tape, 3 Peeople, A Dark Room
A solar eclipse p happens pp when the sun and the moonn line up so that the shadow off the moon falls on the earth. People in the moon’ss umbra experience a total solar eclipse, while those inn the penumbra see a partiall eclipse. (see graphic)
cedure: 1.
2. One person will hold the wire with the earth at arm’s length in the middle off the room, one person will hold the t wire with the moon at arm’s length, and one person will stand behind the light sourcce against the wall.
The bright glow coming from behind the moon during thee eclipse is called the coronaa. This is a part of the sun we don't normally see; it is always there, but the glare of the bright sun hides it.
Use Prop per Glasses It’s neverr safe to look at the sun without protectioon, and the view leading up to the tottal solar ecclipse is no different. Wearing safe eyewearr is essential. Even cameras and cell phonnes can be damaged by their view off thee sun. Learn more about safe viewingg at eclipse.aas.org/eye-safety.
Bits off hydrogen gas, calledd the chromosphere, may bee visible as red and pink colors.
Eclipse waatcher: Is it true that the m atmospheere focuses the light of sun, making it dangerous d to be outside on eclipse day?
Solar Eclipse
Z Z Z Z
Air temperatures Animals and inse Insects willl start
Lookk up th the foll llowing i vocabulary words: TTootality • Umbra Penuumbra ra • Corroona Chromospherree
The sky will be d Stars and planets willl be observable: Venus will be the brighhtest!
Doctor Sppeck: The moon does not have an a atmosphere, and so it cannot behave this way. It is no more dangerouss than any other day .
4. The moon willl need too be between the sun and the earth at a disttance where it willl cast a shadow on the earthh (this may take some trial and error to find the perfect spot). 5 The moon will very sllowly orbit around 5. the Earth.
Learning Standards: I cann follow sequential directions to create a replica. I can draw conclusions and analyze results. r I can make text-to-world connectionss.
Doctor SPECK
Eclipse waatcher: My textbook says that the t sun’s corona gives off harmfuul X-rays and UV rays — shouldn’t we w be scared of them? Doctor Sppeck: The corona does give off those rays, but it does that every day, it’s jusst that the bright sun makes it difficuult forr us to see the corona on a norm mal day — so we don’t notice it. The earth’s atmosphere protects us from thhose harmful rays on eclipse day andd on every other day. Drr. Angela Specck is Directorr of Astronomy at Univerrssity off Missouri, Coluumbia.
3. When the room is com mpletely dark, switch on the light and aim thhe light source straight at earth.
6. Note the various points in the orbit that create night and day. At what point is there an eclipse?
Sourrce: GreatA GreatA AmericanEclipse com AmericanEclipse.com
Get Smart
Use tape to secure the wire or string to the soccer/softballl (earth) and the ping pong balll moon).
Learn more: eclipse.aas.org
Read more: “When the Sun Goes Dark,” by Fraknoi and Schatz
Brought to you by this newspa aper, the Missouri Press Press Foundation Foundation and
RiverHillsTraveler.com
July 2017 • Page 7A
Exploring this Missouri gem should be on your list
T
he Missouri State Park system has so much to offer that it may seem impossible to have a favorite state park, but I do. Hawn State Park is located between Sainte Genevieve and Farmington off of Highway 32. I’ve been camping and hiking there for nearly two decades. Being there gives me an opportunity to slow down and enjoy life. Since this area is so special to me, I have shared it with friends and family. Most people who have come on an adventure with me to Hawn seem to appreciate it just as much as I do. My most recent trip with my daughter, Karlene, was yet another peaceful and restorative experience. Thanks to summer break, we were able to leave our home on a Monday afternoon to avoid the weekend Michelle Turner crowds. ———— Once in the area, we started our trip with a visit to Hickory Canyons Natural Area. It is approximately 10 miles from Hawn State Park. Take Highway 32 to C, and then go down Sprott Road. I quickly learned that my GPS was not to be trusted. It wanted me to stop and park near a farmer’s field, but I continued driving and found a parking area nearby. This was our first visit to this unique natural area. We hiked the shortest trail, but plan to go back and hike the longer trail on another day. The area is quite impressive.
Once we arrived at Hawn State Park, it felt like coming home. Luckily, our campsite was adjacent to another mother/daughter duo. My daughter and her new camping friend discovered they were the same age. The girls enjoyed quite a bit of splashing in Pickle Creek and a few walks together before it was time to make dinner and settle in for the night. After sleeping to a symphony comprised of whippoorwills and tree frogs, we woke up on Tuesday ready to explore places we know and love. We spent the day on our favorite trails within the park. I recommend that you study the maps carefully and make a plan of action before heading out. All of the trails within the park connect and loop in multiple ways. It’s not too hard to get turned around. For the more adventurous, there are even options for overnight hikes. We decided to take Pickle Creek Trail all the way up to where it connects to Whispering Pines. If you continue along Whispering Pines, alongside the creek, you’ll see many waterfalls and shut-ins. There are many places to stop and cool your heels to make a fun day of it. To finish the hike, we backtracked on Whispering Pines to where it crosses Pickle Creek and loops back to the trailhead parking lot. If, like me, you are not always surefooted, I recommend using a hiking stick. The trail along Pickle Creek is very rocky and you have to climb over
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a few obstacles. However, the sights and sounds make it totally worthwhile. Once we arrived back to our campsite, it was time for more wading in the creek with Karlene’s new camping friend, a quick game of Uno, and other typical camping experiences. What’s a camping trip without a campfire and s’mores? On Wednesday, we took our time breaking down camp to enjoy a few more hours at Hawn before it was time to head home. Even though the time flew by, Karlene and I both know we’ll be back again sooner than later because Hawn is indeed my favorite Missouri State Park. I highly recommend a visit to Hawn State Park. Don’t let any fear of the un-
known come into play. Exploring this Missouri gem should be next on your to-do list. (Michelle Turner lives in Union, Mo.)
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RiverHillsTraveler.com
Certain activities in the forest require permits is responsible for the management of the Ozark Natural Scenic Riverways. The National Park Service’s management objective is to “preserve” and showcase our nation’s history and unique natural wonders, such as the Arch in St. Louis and the Grand Canyon. • FS – We are a federal agency, and here in Missouri we manage the 1,500,000 acres of the Mark Twain National Forest. The forest service’s management objective is the “conservation” of our nation’s natural resources. When you are visiting and enjoying any of the above-mentioned public lands you will need to be knowledge-
able of the rules and regulations for the public lands you are visiting. For example, if you are at a NPS area and you want to cut up a dead and down tree for your campfire, you cannot do that. But if you are on the National Forest you can. Another example is if you have your county sticker to ride your ATVs on county roads, you can also ride the Forest Service numbered roads in that county. BUT, you cannot ride your ATV on the roads in MDCs Indian Trails Conservation Area. (Thomas Haines is district ranger for the Mark Twain National Forest, Salem Ranger District. He can be reached at 573-729-6656 or tehaines@fs.fed.us.)
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Shawnee Mac Lakes Conservation Area, White River Trace Conservation Area and Short Bend Conservation Area. This state agency is also responsible for the setting and enforcing all of the state’s fish and game laws. They also work with private landowners to help them conserve forested lands and wildlife habitat. • DNR – This is a state agency and is responsible for managing the state of Missouri’s parks such as Montauk State Park, Current River State Park, Dillard Mill State Historic Site, and Echo Bluff State Park. DNR’s management objective is to preserve and showcase Missouri’s cultural and natural wonders. • NPS – This is a federal agency and
P
By Thomas Haines ast month I was asked by Stan Stevens, of KSMO Radio, if I could do an article on what activities on the forest require a permit. Stan’s point was that many people are not aware that some activities people want to do on the forest require them to obtain a permit. I will try to highlight a few of these activities, but in short, if the activity involves the removing or damaging of any of the natural resources such as cutting trees or other vegetation, or stripping branches, operating motorized vehicles off of designated roads and digging for rocks or minerals, may require a permit. If the activity involves large groups or the making of money or generating monies, such as, operating a hunting and guiding operation, sponsoring sporting events, filming commercial movies, it may require a permit. The safest thing to do is to give us a call and ASK. Here are some examples of activities that would require a permit: • Crossing Forest Service land to get to private property (not served by a county or Forest Service road). • Crossing Forest Service land to bring in utilities, e.g., electricity, cable TV, phone line, water lines, etc. • Host large gathering of 75 or more people on National Forest lands. • Harvesting or collecting forest products to sell, e.g., pine cones, mushrooms, plants, berries, herbs, rocks, minerals. Note: Incidental gathering of Forest products like mushrooms and berries for personal consumption do not require a permit. Collection of ginseng is not allowed. • Grazing of cattle or other livestock. • Cutting and bailing of grass/hay. • Occupying/camping on the forest beyond 14 days. • Placing a gate, fence, sign or another improvement on National Forest lands. • Commercial filming. • Special events like road rallies, cross country racing/runs. • Gathering of firewood. (Note: If you are camping on the forest and the wood is for your campfire, you do not need a permit.) • Operating a guiding operation, e.g., leading horse trail rides, guided hunts, guided hikes, canoe rentals, (where these are done as a business). • Research. This is by no means a complete listing of all of the activities that would require a special use permit. But as we said earlier, if you have a question, please call our office. ——— Recently we have had a number of people that were confused on “who manages what public lands.” So in this month’s article I will try and address this. The four major public lands management agencies in our area are: the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC), Missouri Department of Natural Resources (DNR), National Park Service (USDI-NPS) and National Forest Service (USDA-FS). We all pretty much do the same thing but the management objectives, rules, regulation and services they offer are different. • MDC – This is a state agency and is responsible for managing the state of Missouri’s conservation areas. such as Indian Trails Conservation Area,
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RiverHillsTraveler.com
July 2017 • Page 9A
Pets or no pets? Campgrounds have varying policies By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
W
ith the summer setting in, it’s easy to just pick up and go to the river and spend a week on the campground, but what about your pets? Do they stay or do they go? Can someone watch them while you’re gone? Do you know the pet policy where you are going? Several families have pets, and when it comes down to leaving them behind, it can be a challenge. Luckily, several campgrounds in Missouri are pet friendly and encourage families to bring their pets as long as they follow the pet guidelines. Here are the pet policies of a few campgrounds in different parts of the state: • Bearcat Getaway Campground, in Lesterville, has allowed pets on the campground for a very long time, and hasn’t seen any issues arise. “We charge a $2 donation for every pet you bring for the day and $10 per night that they stay that goes to a no-kill animal shelter,” said Mary Bullis, office manager of Bearcat. Every penny of the donation given will go to organizations like the ASPCA and/or The World Wildlife Fund. Bearcat does require that all pets be on a leash at all times. Campground visitors are responsible for cleaning up after their pet, and are not allowed on the rafts while floating. “We encourage you to bring your pets with you floating, but we ask that they not be on a raft in case of it getting
popped or damaged,” said Bullis. If you are planning on bringing your pet on the river, plan to be in a canoe. “We occasionally have to remind them to put their animals on a leash but we haven’t had any major issues with allowing pets,” said Bullis. • Boiling Spring Campground, in Dixon, has a little different policy when it comes to pets. “We allow pets if they are on a leash at all times, and are not vicious pets,” said Gale Helms, owner of Boiling Spring Campground. Boiling Spring also offers cabin rentals, but the cabins are not pet friendly. “Due to the health department, extra cleaning, and different allergies that our campers have, we have opted to not allow pets in the cabins,” said Helms. However, she said you can have a pet carrier for them outside the cabin, just not inside. When floating, pets are allowed in the kayaks as well as canoes, but not tubes or rafts. “We decided that because we are a pet family we would allow others to bring them as well, and we have allowed pets
since the beginning,” said Helms. Though campgrounds assume that all pets are up to date on their shots, there have been issues in the past at Boiling Spring. “Over the years we have had to call the police and health department because someone has gotten bitten,” said Helms. According to Helms, an issue like that doesn’t arise but every couple of years. “There are positive and negative things about allowing pets and not allowing pets, but we love to bring our pets and know that others do as well,” said Helms. • In Steelville, Bass' River Resort is also a pet friendly campground as long as they are on a leash at all times. “We allow pets on the campground and we also allow them to be in the cabins for an extra $25 for your stay,” said Julie Bass, owner of Bass’ River Resort. Unlike several campgrounds, at Bass’ River Resort, pets are allowed in rafts, canoes, and kayaks. “If you want to take your pet on the river, all of our equipment is okay to allow them on it,” said Bass. She said the resort has always allowed pets, but not in the cabins. “It wasn’t until a couple years ago that we started allowing pets in the cabins,” said Bass. • Ozark Outdoors Resort, in Leasburg, is another very pet friendly resort that has never had problems with pets. “We allow dogs on a leash and do not charge for them to camp or float,” said Tara Reed, office manager of Ozark Outdoors Resort.
They charge $15 for pets to stay in the small cabins and $25 for the large condos. “We know how important it is to be able to bring your pets with you and we want to encourage you to do so,” said Reed. Pets are also allowed on the boats, rafts, and kayaks at Ozark Outdoors. • Circle B Campground, in Eminence, is a pet friendly campground to non-aggressive breeds. Pets must be kept on a leash at all times and never left unattended. Circle B’s insurance prohibits dangerous, aggressive breeds from staying or being on the premises and owners of confrontational, aggressive breeds or dogs that bark excessively will be asked to leave and remove such dogs from the campground, and the acceptability is determined by management. The types of dogs not acceptable to Circle B include, but are not limited to, pit bulls, American bull terriers, Rottweilers, chow, any wolf hybrid, or any dog with vicious tendencies or a dog who has bitten someone. At Circle B, seeing-eye and service dogs are exceptions but need to be registered upon arriving. Pets are not allowed in the cabins and if a pet is found in the cabins or motel, there will be a $100 additional charge added. Each campground is a little different and some are more specific than others. Before bringing your pets along, please call or visit the website of your campground to double-check the pet policy for that campground.
Page 10A • July 2017
RiverHillsTraveler.com
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July 2017 • Page 11A
Ruby’s has the best breakfast in Eminence By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
R
uby’s Family Restaurant in Eminence, Mo., is one of the more bustling places in town. Ruby Rainbolt, owner, bought the former T&T’s Family Restaurant in 1999 and changed the name to Ruby’s Family Restaurant. “I worked at T&T’s off and on for about 10 years as a waitress before buying it. I thought it would be a good business for me,” said Rainbolt. Ruby’s is a family-owned and operated restaurant with Rainbolt and her daughter and two granddaughters also working there. Over the years, Rainbolt has updated the ceilings, painted the outside of the restaurant, installed new tile, and replaced all the chairs. “We kept the T&T’s in some places of the restaurant because that’s what some of our locals still call it,” said Rainbolt. According to Rainbolt, Ruby’s get more locals in the winter, but in the summertime they get more tourists. “We definitely get more tourists in the summer because of all the campgrounds, but when it gets colder, we see more locals,” said Rainbolt. Ruby’s Restaurant sees travelers from such places as Illinois, Arkansas, Kansas City, Springfield, and St. Louis. For Rainbolt, the most rewarding thing about owning a restaurant is seeing the people. “I love visiting with our locals, our travelers, and meeting new people. It’s my favorite part,” said Rainbolt. Rainbolt spends most of her time in the back cooking during restaurant hours, and spends several hours making schedules for all 14 employees. “I cook almost all the breakfast and I help cook dinner on Friday and Saturday nights,” said Rainbolt. For breakfast, scrambled eggs and bacon has to be considered one of the favorite's at Ruby's, but the short stack of pancakes is also very popular. A breakfast buffet is offered most Saturdays. The hardest part about running a restaurant for Rainbolt is having employees. “It is not what it used to be 15 years ago. It’s very time consuming making schedules for everyone, but it pays off,” said Rainbolt. The busiest time of the year for Ruby’s is summer, but what is the busiest time of the day?
According to Rainbolt, each day is different. “It is very unpredictable, some days it’s crazy, other days its not," she said. Ruby’s Family Restaurant is open Monday-Thursday from 6 a.m to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. “Each meal is a made from scratch, home-cooked meal that we cook daily,” said Rainbolt. Ruby’s has been in business for 18 years serving the Eminence community and plans on many more years of service.
The Last Resort 59962 Hwy. 21 • Ellington, MO 63638 (573) 663-3623 • email: jmaxcy@mcmo.net Vacation rental features central access to all recreation areas including Big Spring, Current River, Blue Spring, Clearwater, Owls Bend, Wappapello, and Jacks Fork River. Fully furnished 3-bedroom house four miles south of Ellington, Mo. Fully-equipped kitchen, linens, and towels supplied. Explore the Ozarks by day and relax in the comfort of a cozy home by night!
Page 12A • July 2017
RiverHillsTraveler.com
Neosho summers of my childhood... so many wonderful memories
M
y childhood years were all spent in Neosho because my dad’s business was Neosho Ice Company and he needed to be in the office. For me, summer vacation only meant being out of school, not out of town. Television did not have much to offer a lively kid and all this other technology did not exist. No part of my day would be spent on Judy Smith Facebook or twitter ———— or on computer games. Nothing kept me indoors. My recollection of summers are of wonderful mornings waking up to full bright sunshine, breakfast on the porch and then out the screen door to meet with kids of the neighborhood. The backyard was pretty much all
mud as constructing the house had done away with the grass. Mother told us that she would take us to the movies one Saturday if we would stay off the grass-planted ground until the grass came up. I recall one fun afternoon when Mom must have been at bridge club and we kids had a mud ball/rock fight. I led my team from the top of the doghouse, which had a large coffee can suggesting chimney, and the “enemy” was behind the south hedge of the driveway. How none of us got hurt I have no idea. As a group we had several metal pedal toys, all of which were rusty and squeaky. We drove them round and round the carport which was deafening to mother inside the house. I do not recall any toy being plastic. Finally grass came up and summer came on with backyard baseball. Young boys who lived mid-town rode their bicycles to fill out our constant game of work-up.
The grass gave way to broad leaf. Shoes gave way to barefooted runners. This was feet-toughening and I could run across gravel. My feet still remember the cool smoothness of the weed called broadleaf. Neosho had the advantage of the Fort Crowder Olympic-size swimming pool. School buses would ferry us out to swimming lessons in the morning’s cold water. But we did learn to swim. After lunch Mom insisted on clearing the yard and carport from 1-3 p.m. so she could get a little peace. We would then move into the darkened living room and play spoons on the living room floor. (Though Daddy’s business was refrigeration, Mom thought air conditioning brought on arthritis so we did not have an air-conditioned home.) Other afternoon activities could be playing board games on one of the neighborhood front porches overlooking Big Spring Park. At 3 p.m. somebody yelled “first batter” and baseball
“resumed.” Evenings were also full of us kids running through the neighborhood from the Spring Street stairs to McCord Street on the curve. We played hide and seek, Kick the Can and my favorite, Sardines! One person would hide to the count of ten and the rest of us searched for the “sardine” and finding him, we would crowd in beside until all but one was in and the one still out became the next Sardine. Without benefit of bug spray or anyplace clean we would squeeze under porches, behind snowball bushes and into the occasional cave-like basement. Too soon the night would end and Mom would ring the big bell for our family group to come in for baths and bed. I cry for children today who don’t know how to play outside or what it is to run across broadleaf. (Judy Haas Smith lives in Neosho, Mo.)
“Smartphones were never designed to do sun and moon photography. The standard lenses are very small, and provide hardly any resolution at all for even the largest objects in the sky like the sun and moon,” said Odenwald. The objects are only one-half degree in diameter, and for a regular megapixel smartphone, their disks only cover a few dozen pixels in your final image. Several smartphone adapters are also available for purchase to help with capturing the perfect picture. “Several inexpensive smartphone adapters let you mount your device on a telescope or binocular such as iOptron Universal Smartphone Eyepiece Adapter, the Orion SteadyPix Universal Smartphone Adapter, and the TeleVue FoneMate,” said Odenwald. According to Odenwald these sdapters cost around $40, but if you own a pair of binoculars, an easy fix is to hold the camera over the eyepiece to get greater magnifications. “Some of the world’s best astrophotographers have used this binocular technique with a tripod to take stunning photos of the moon just using their smartphone,” said Odenwald. Another binocular option is to get a binocular-smartphone adapter and a tri-
pod. “It will be difficult to use the handheld binocular and camera because there are so many factors that you literally have to juggle to make it work,” said Odenwald. Binocular tripod clamps are easy to find on the internet and cost between $10- $20 for the simple screw-type adapter, or $25 for the strap-type adapter that works for almost all types of binoculars. “With this set up, all you have to do is point the tripod/binocular at the eclipse in progress, and set the focus on your binoculars and camera once and for all,” siad Odenwald. Camera lens adapters for binoculars can also be found on the internet and cost between $10 for one designed specifically for your camera type or $50$70 for a universal adapter that fits most phones. Don’t like the binocular idea? A telephoto lens may be the option for you. “A telephoto lens system is absolutely a must-have for eclipse photography with a smartphone,” said Odenwald. There are several zoom lenses for smartphone photographers designed solely to provide magnification without resorting to digital zoom. “Most clip directly to the smartphone over the existing lens and provide total magnification of 8x for less than $20, and 12x at a cost of under $40,” said Odenwald. Odenwald also explained that a tripod will also need to be purchased for your smartphone to avoid shaking. “Some systems include a tripod and a mounting bracket for the smartphone that is far sturdier than a clip-on system,” said Odenwald. Whether you are wanting to buy equipment to attach to your phone or simply change the settings on your smartphone, it is possible to get a good picture of the solar eclipse with these helpful tips.
ECLIPSE from 1 “The best thing to do is to cover the camera lens with a solar filter during the moments before and after totality when the sun is still blinding,” said Odenwald. Odenwald explains that you can use sun-viewing glasses to cover the smartphone lens to act as a solar filter. “This will eliminate sun blooming and give you a clear image of the solar disk. When totality starts, take the filter off and shoot normally with the smartphone,” said Odenwald. Odenwald encourages everyone to practice taking photos several days before, just after sunset during twilight, because the light levels will be similar of your viewing on the path of totality. “Moon photography is a challenge because the camera will try to automatically adjust the exposure but most of the view will be the dark sky, so the moon’s disk will be overexposed and show no details,” said Odenwald. According to Odenwald, to avoid this, most smartphones let you adjust with your finger where the focus and metering spots will be. “There are many smartphone apps that have greater flexibility than the one that comes with your camera, and you should consider testing as many of them as you can before the eclipse to find the right one,” said Odenwald. These apps are available for both Andriod smartphones and iPhones, and one of Odenwald’s favorites is Adobe Lightroom. Odenwald gave several helpful tips to make sure you get the perfect photo of the solar eclipse with your smartphone: • When using a smartphone they tend to auto-focus, but when capturing the solar eclipse it is not enough. “You have to do it manually, and this is as simple as tapping the screen and holding your finger on the moon to lock the focus,” said Odenwald. Once you have the focus locked on the moon, you can change the exposure by sliding your finger up or down. “With iOS camera apps, drag the exposure slider down until you see details on the moon image. Andridd camera apps usually have an exposure setting too, but it might take some hunting to find it,” said Odenwald. • Instead of trying to capture the solar eclipse only, try getting photos of people present with the sun in the background.
“Take a time-lapse photo series of the scenery as the light dims with the smartphone secured on a tripod or other mounting so that you can watch the eclipse while your camera photographs the scenery,” said Odenwald. • Digital zoom is not the best tool to use when trying to get a magnified, clear image of the eclipse. “Go buy a $20-$40 zoom lens attachment that will give you a total of digital zoom x optical zoom = 12x to 18x,” said Odenwald. This zoom will let you see a large moon disk, resolve mare features and possibly see a few large craters. “At this magnification, the total solar eclipse will also look much nicer because you will be able to start to see details in the shape of the corona,” said Odenwald. • Another thing to consider is setting a five-second delay timer on the smartphone to allow time to change the exposure before getting the shot. “That gives your camera/tripod/clamp system plenty of time to settle down and produce vibration-free images,” said Odenwald. According Odenwald, the most difficult challenge will be managing your own expectations.
TravTalk
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July 2017 • Page 13A
Wooden lookout towers were sturdier than you might think (Editor’s note: This is the sixth part in a series about fire towers in Missouri.) By Bob Frakes on’t forget the wooden towers” is the cry I have received in several emails. Although my collected information on the wooden towers is not up to the steel, I have gathered some interesting pictures and ideas over the years. One paper here has the old wooden tower at Deer Run listed as the first in the state. The steel tower there was the first metal tower. Deer Run may have a double first. Many present and past steel tower sites were predated by wooden ones. Wooden towers were also popular during the war years as steel was needed for the war effort. In the enclosed picture at Proctor, you can see the footings for the previous wooden tower in the foreground and the present steel tower in the back. As Jim Parker pointed out to me, notice the different method for attaching the wood to the concrete. Instead of bolts the wooden tower footings had “straps” set in the concrete and then attached to the legs. The steel tower at Proctor (moved from Swedeborg) replaced the wooden tower which stood there from 1946 to 1974. These wooden towers could be very sturdy. Consider this news article from the Jefferson City Post-Tribune (October 1972):
D
“The old sentinel didn’t fall easily. The fire tower was stronger than Conservation Commission personnel had figured. Supporting braces were sawed away, bolts were driven out with sledges, power saws partially cut through three of the massive legs. Still it resisted. “The cold Tuesday afternoon dragged on. Time after time, ropes were attached to a small bulldozer and tension applied. Time after time the ropes snapped. Half a dozen times the structure defied the crew, setting back on its concrete base with creaks and groans. “Built in 1947, the fire tower near the Reform Community, in southeastern Calloway County, had served its purpose. A 120-foot steel tower south of Gutherie has replaced the 60-foot wooden tower which was rotting and unsafe. “The Reform Tower, a familiar landmark in the area, had been scheduled for destruction last Friday. Transportation difficulties gave it four days of grace. It was a cold, damp, windy day to go. Its time, however, had run out. “Nestled in its dark-green, 20-acre
The Macedonia Tower was located between Grandin and Doniphan. When it was removed, it was not replaced with a steel tower as other towers could then replace the coverage.
grove of surrounding pine trees, the roar of the dozer and shouts of the crew disturbed the forest stillness as they tried to pull the tower over. The tower stood starkly against the slate-gray sky, a belligerent, frustrating reminder of a time when things were built to last. “The dozer won in the end. The leg in the direction of fall was sawed almost through about four feet from the base. A chain was attached to the dozer and tied directly around the base. Revving up the machine, the bulldozer yanked on this four foot “plug” at a right angle. “Slowly at first, with a loud snapping of timbers and the collapsing of the topmost portion of the structure, the fall began. Then the tilt, inharmonious,
A tower diagram from the United States Forest Service.
chillingly incongruent, with agonizing slowness. Finally the crash, cushioned by the pines, comrades for years performing one last favor. “Eugene McCormick, of Reform, had been the towerman at Reform since its construction and is now assigned to the Gutherie Tower. He was among the workman at the site.” It seems getting a wood tower down could be hard at times. Getting one up could also. Steel towers went up in pieces and levels. The leg of a wooden tower was often one long pine tree trunk or squared timber for shorter towers. This led to innovative “tower up” techniques. The tower might be laid out on the ground, even using chalk lines. It was then assembled flat on the ground with the needed holes drilled. Then some pieces would be removed and braces added. With the footings set, two of the leg bottoms would be attached with a “rocker log.” Then, using A-frames, ginpoles, or Bebee Hoists, the tower would be pulled vertical as the “rocker logs” allowed the structure to pivot and set down on the footings (see diagram). The belts and braces would then be attached in the already-drilled holes. Steps would be attached, a cab built, and electricity and lightning protection run. Smaller “patrol towers” often only had walkways. A variety of cable
stringings were used depending on the tower size with the tension on these set to exact standards. These were attached to separate cable footings a distance from the tower. A well set up wooden tower would often be much sturdier than one might expect. It seems this method was used for smaller wooden towers. Jerry Presley noted that some wooden tower legs were bolted to the footings and simply allowed to sit, however precariously. After the first set of braces and belts were attached, more security was achieved which increased as each subsequent sets were added above. With wood, water and rotting was always a concern. The answer here was big and small items. The footings were, for example, beveled so water ran off. The pine itself, as Max Gorman pointed out, was very much piney and full of sap in the center and tended to resist water. The answer beyond that was creosote. I can still remember the power poles in front of my home with that particular smell. Because of environmental and health concerns, you don’t find it anymore. However, if applied to a well-dried piece of wood, it could offer years of weather protection. The key was getting the wood well dried so the creosote worked well. Some of the creosote tended to run down the pole and form a protective barrier at the bottom. Shortcuts were tried from time to time but few worked out. Even the holes for the bolts were creosoted and the outside recoated periodically. Looks could be deceiving with the creosoted wooden towers. The area between the outside coating and the center of resin could degrade without notice at times. You will note above the Reform Tower was well set up it seems, and not ready to go. However, several of my tower friends commented that on occasion when a wooden tower came down, it could be very surprising how much of the inner wooden part was gone. Wooden forest lookout towers were an interesting chapter in Missouri’s tower history. Next month, we finish up with what’s in a name. (PS — As several of you emailed, Baldy and Taum Sauk are 70 footers. Seems 70 became 270 at some point. Those who emailed are on your toes! 270 is NOT a short tower!) (Part seven of this series on Missouri fire towers will appear in the July issue of the River Hills Traveler. Questions or comments? Bob Frakes can be reached by email at frakes2@mvn.net or by phone at 618-244-1642.)
At Proctor, you can see the footings for the previous wooden tower in the foreground and the present steel tower in the back.
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ALLEY from 1 always had to include a visit of the Alley Spring Mill to complete the day. Needless to say, I have made many memories of Alley Spring throughout my lifetime, which is why when I heard the news that Alley Spring was going to be featured on a United States quarter and a presentation was scheduled, I knew that I had to attend this historic event. The Alley Spring Mill is a historic grain mill located six miles west of Eminence. The present mill was constructed in 1893-1894 by George Washington McCaskill as a merchant mill. It was one of the largest mills in the Jacks Fork River area and replaced an earlier mill on the same site where the current mill now sits. Since there was a constant water supply at Alley Spring, this seemed to be the ideal location for the historic mill. Originally unpainted, it was first painted white with green trim, then later painted the famous red color associated with Alley Mill today. The original mill was used for converting wheat or corn into flour. Local farmers would bring their grain to the miller who would either buy it or trade it for a percentage to grind it for the farmer. At times the Alley Spring Mill area had a well-stocked general store, a blacksmith shop, and even a nearby post office. With such a rich history, as well as being one of the most photographed places in the United States, it is a nobrainer that Alley was chosen as a part of the U.S. Mint’s “America the Beautiful” quarters program. This program was designed to cap-
ter, Jason Smith, and Larry Johnson — drop $2,000 in the new Alley quarters into circulation for the first time in a special display which featured a river of flowing quarters that landed into a wooden canoe. After the presentation, the public was able to exchange and/or buy the Alley Spring quarters from Security Bank of the Ozarks, which had a booth set up next to the mill. Traveler’s very own Jimmy Sexton, Mattie Link, my mother Linda Wood, and I were able to buy quarters to keep as a souvenir of this special day dedicated to the great outdoors of Missouri. I feel very fortunate to be able to join the River Hills Traveler magazine during this special presentation. For more info on Alley Spring quarters, please visit www.usmint.gov, and for more info on Alley Spring Mill, please visit www.nps.gov. Tom Akers (right) watches as Paul Fitzwater, Jason Smith, and Larry Johnson pour $2,000 in Alley Mill quarters down a “river” and into a wooden canoe.
ture the breathtaking beauty of America’s natural landscape. The quarter that features the Ozark National Scenic Riverways (ONSR) and the Alley Spring Mill is the 38th quarter in the series. It is the third quarter in 2017 to be released and is uniquely Missouri’s only quarter featured in the series. During the quarter release ceremony held on June 5, thousands of people in attendance got to enjoy local craft exhibitors, games, great food vendors, as well as some beautiful bluegrass music performed by local group, The Baker Family. The crowd also got to enjoy guest speakers such as former Astronaut Tom Akers, who was raised near the Eminence area and now lives just a few
miles from Alley Spring Mill. Akers was nominated to be the emcee for the event, while other speakers included Missouri Governor Eric Greiten’s spokesperson, Paul Fitzwater; Missouri State Rep. Jason Smith; as well as speakers from the office of U.S. Senator Claire McCaskill, the office of U.S. Senator Roy Blunt, Patricia Trapp from the National Park Service, and Larry Johnson, superintendent of the ONSR. All of the speakers spotlighted how special this quarter is for the Alley Spring area as well as all Missourians. After the guest speakers, the crowd got to witness a representative from the U.S. Mint — along with Paul Fitzwa-
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July 2017 • Page 15A
GREER from 1 the 4,100 acre Greer Spring Special Management Area and added 2,800 acres to the Eleven Point National Scenic River. There is a trailhead at the Greer Springs parking lot on the west side of Highway 19. It is about .9 of a mile hike down to the spring itself. It takes roughly about 45 minutes, depending on your hiking pace/ability. There are two benches along the trail and several “natural” seats (rocks) to sit down and take a break before you continue your hike. You will walk through a beautiful, peaceful forest of underbrush (wildflowers, small bushes), pine trees, and several hardwood trees. If you are quiet enough, you might see some wildlife like a deer or rabbit jump out in front of you. As I hiked down the trail, I wondered how many people have hiked down this same pathway to see the spring. Wondering if they were listening to the neighboring birds, or paying attention to trees swaying back and forth. I wondered if they were taking time to enjoy all the natural resources around them. Then, when you get down to the spring. Wow! What a beautiful sight and sound. You can feel the coolness of the water on your skin. You can not only hear the “roaring” of the spring flowing along, but actually feel it through your body. To witness the beautiful water flowing along and wonder how many stories it could tell you. Of where it traveled from and how many things it will “touch” along the way. I saw older rocks underneath the surface of the spring branch. As I stood there in the coolness of the spring water, I had to wonder if those rocks could only talk, what would they have to say? I know back in the 1800’s the Greer Mill on the hill above was operated in this spring branch. I wondered during that time what kind of wildlife was around it? And how did the families cross over the spring to the other side as told by a few elders of the community? Growing up around this spring must have been quite an experience, to say
the least. The rocks, the trees, the water, the historic sites around this spring could tell us so much if we only would listen. It may sound “far out” to you, but if you are really paying attention, you could learn a lot about life. Because in the “big picture” of life, living is really what matters. And there are a lot of living things around you in the forest and around the spring. A lot of plants that only grow in and around the spring are located here. Everything living together and interacting in life. Isn’t that what all of us are doing? Yes, I believe if you really
paid attention for a moment, we could all learn something from nature itself. There has to be something bigger than all of us that created all of this beauty. What an artist! So, if you are ever wanting to take a trip to see the largest spring out of all the National Forests in the United States, then maybe you should visit Greer Springs. It will be worth the hike, worth your time and maybe, just maybe, you will learn something, too. (Dana Sturgeon lives in southern Missouri. She can be reached at mo_dana@hotmail.com.)
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July 2017 • Page 3B
Fly fishing Montauk after the flood B By Bill Cooper usinesses and individuals have been busy cleaning up after more than a foot of rain dumped on the Ozarks a few weeks ago. Damage occurred to roads, bridges and structures. Parks and resorts along rivers suffered from the highest water levels ever recorded in some areas. Almost 500 miles of the 600 miles of county roads in Dent County suffered some type of damage. Montauk State Park saw water two feet higher than during the flood of December 2015, according to superintendent Doug Rusk. Campgrounds and roads suffered damage and lots of mud, sand and debris had to be removed. The Missouri Department of Conservation fish hatchery suffered damage as well. Additionally, thousands of trout were washed from the hatchery and into the spring branch and Current River. “Wildlife is resilient,” said Brandon Butler, the executive director of the Conservation Federation of Missouri. “Fish normally hunker down and survive these types of water events.” Trout anglers became anxious about the future of trout fishing for the upcoming season. “Wow,” Damon Spurgeon, of Outside Again Adventures, said as he prepared to fly fish at Montauk last week. “This place was a real mess just a few days ago. Park and conservation department personnel have done an incredible job of cleaning up and fixing up in a very short period of time.” Fishermen have had a heyday at Montauk since the flood. The spring branch, particularly below the hatchery holding pens, is holding thousands of rainbow trout that washed out of the hatchery during the flood. Anglers simply looking for a meal have caught four fish limits in less than five minutes. Others hang around for the fun of catching dozens and dozens of fish. I joined the fun for a few hours one day last week and caught trout on my fly rod until my arms ached. I easily landed 150 fish and lost many more. “It’s a great time to bring kids to the park to learn to fish or to simply catch lots of fish,” Spurgeon said. He stood in one pool, surrounded by hundreds of fish, and caught dozens on a wooly bugger, while a group of nearby kids, accompanied by grandparents, reeled in fish after fish, amidst all of their giggles. “One boy bragged to everyone that walked by that he had caught 500 fish,” Spurgeon said. “Catching dozens of rainbow trout on a fly rod is as fun as it gets. However, there are many thousands of small fish in the stream and getting past them to get to larger fish proved to be a real challenge.” Damon had been fishing at the confluence of two branches, which attracted fish by the thousands and numerous anglers as well. He decided to move upstream to scout for larger fish and a little solitude. Less than 200 yards upstream Spurgeon found what he was looking for. He immediately began sighting larger rainbows and there was not another person in sight. “This is almost unbelievable,” Damon said. “Where else can you fish in such beautiful surroundings and enjoy fly fishing for trout alone. This
Damon Spurgeon with one of dozens of rainbow trout he caught while fly fishing at Montauk State Park, after the big flood.
scenario reminds me of mountain trout streams out West.” Damon stood for a long few minutes analyzing the stream and locating individual big fish holding behind boulders. “Taking the time to look a situation over good before beginning to blindly cast is wise,” he said. “Often one can sight fish, actually drifting a fly to an individual fish. That is the ultimate in fly fishing fun.” Clear, cold water rushed by as Spurgeon tied on a #14 tan scud, an imitation of a freshwater shrimp, which are common in Ozark streams. “It’s always fun to flip a few rocks
and check out the aquatic insect life in a stream,” he explained. “The stream doesn’t lie. It will tell you what the fish are eating. Find an appropriate imitation in a fly and you are in business.” Damon identified a run, a channel a little deeper than the surrounding water, and made a short roll cast to place his scud at the head, or beginning of the run. Holding his rod high allowed little fly line to contact the water, reducing the drag on his line. The effect became a scud pattern drifting in a near perfect, natural fashion. Turning slowly to follow the drift, Spurgeon appeared fluid and confident.
He’d spent years doing just that, all the while perfecting a fly fishing technique that few have mastered. His ruse worked. He lifted his rod and it arched heavily. He had perfectly cast his scud, followed it with a high stick and watched as the fly rolled with the current up and over the boulder and dropped into the pocket behind the rock where the trout was hiding. Damon watched as the colorful fish lunged for his fly offering. The hook set came naturally for him. Spurgeon paused often to make a point. I was learning. He melded patience and near flawless presentations into an art form that painted the perfect picture of what fly fishermen dream that fishing should be... a collusion of mankind, water and trout reacting to a well presented fly. Spurgeon eased downstream, constantly on the watch for new opportunities to fool another trout. He occasionally changed flies, while explaining to me what each one imitated and why a trout would eat it. “Trout fishing should be good at Montauk for a while,” Spurgeon said. “In addition to the fish in the lower park, conservation personnel are already stocking the upper reaches of the stream, too.” To get off on the right foot for a fly fishing trip to Montauk, Damon recommends stopping by J Cook Fly Rods in Salem. “Jerry Cook is a world class fly fisherman and rod builder,” he explained. “Too, he and his staff can tell you what fly patterns to use in any given circumstance.” Too, Spurgeon recommends that you not drool on Cook’s fly rod creations. “Just drop a hint to your wife that you want one for Christmas, your birthday, anniversary or Ground Hogs Day. The purchase will help the economy and certainly improve your stature among fly fishermen.”
AROUND the WORLD with the River Hills Traveler
Karlene Hoch, of Union, Mo., at Wall Drug in Wall, S.D. She took a friend along with her. ——— If you're going on a trip or vacation, please take the River Hills Traveler with you and have someone photograph you and the magazine in front of a landmark or particular setting. Then email the picture to us at jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com and we will publish it an upcoming issue. You can also text your photos & info to (417) 451-3798 or send them to us via our Facebook page.
Thank you very much and we look forward to seeing your family’s adventures!
Page 4B • July 2017
RiverHillsTraveler.com
No shooter should be without a .22 firearm
W
ith squirrel seasons opening up across the midwest, what better time to take a look at America’s favorite rifle caliber. Literally billions of rounds of .22caliber rimfire ammunition are fired each year. Most of it is shot while plinking and hunting squirrels and rabbits. Small varmints, like groundhogs, are also heavily hunted with rimfire guns. Today almost all of the rimfire ammo used is of .22-caliber with but a few limited exceptions. However, this was not always the case. One of the most sought-after “Yankee” guns of the Civil War was a Spencer carbine. Its very large magazine capacity and the fixed cartridge it used made it a very desirable weapon. The cartridge used Mike Roux in the Spencer was a ———— rimfire cartridge of about .52-caliber. There were also many rimfire handguns in this era — .30-caliber, .38-caliber handguns along with the .44-caliber Henry rifle were all rimfire guns. The rimfire ammo being used today is primarily as follows: .22 short, .22 long, .22 long Rifle and .22 Winchester Magnum. There are a number of variations which include standard velocity, high velocity, solid bullets and hollowpoint bullets. One or more of these variations can be found in a single cartridge. For example, a .22 long rifle, high velocity, hollow point. The 5mm-Remington Magnum never really caught on, and it is probably not unfair to say that, even though it is a relatively recent introduction, it is already a dying cartridge. The other, more popular rimfires will for sure be with us for as long as we have the right to bear arms. The lifespan of the various .22-caliber rimfires is assured by their comparatively low cost, very low noise level, good accuracy and sufficient energy to take small varmint and small game at ranges to 50 yards. Under certain circumstances the ranges can be stretched to 75 or 100 yards. But the use of any rimfire cartridges at ranges beyond 100 yards falls into the stunt category and will result in the loss of a lot of crippled game. Of course, the ability to practice almost anywhere with a .22 is reason enough to ensure its longevity for another century. In these areas, there are several special oddities of .22 rimfire ammo — the .22CB short and the .22CB long. These are nothing more than a .22 short or long loaded to a reduced velocity of about 675 fps (feet per second). These cartridges allow the use of the .22 on indoor ranges. The low-velocity projectiles ensure that the noise level will be about on par with a high-velocity air gun and that relatively modest backstops will be adequate. These guns are a favorite of trappers because they cause very little, if any, pelt damage. Let us now take a closer look at the most popular .22-caliber cartridges: • .22 short — The .22 short standard velocity with standard lead bullet is the ideal plinking round. Its low cost, good accuracy and low noise level add up to
much meat. Some squirrel hunters will not use hollow points for the same reason. Many a long-range varmint shooter, who has lost the thrill of the hunt, finds himself returning to the hunting of varmints with the .22 long rifle. With low noise levels, hunters find that they are welcomed in places that centerfire rifle shooters find impossible to get Inexpensive practice, the fun of plinking, and serious hunting or target shoot- into. • .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire — ing can all be enjoyed almost anywhere with a .22. With more energy at 100 yards than the perfect plinker’s cartridge. There is manufacturers. The long is a cross beany long rifle cartridge has at the muzone draw-back, however. Extensive use tween the short and long rifle cartridge. zle, the .22-Magnum is the muscle of the short case in guns chambered for It uses the 29-grain bullet of the short round in the .22-caliber rimfire family. and the case of the long rifle. The muza long rifle load will eventually cause Useful for all the hunting purposes of zle velocity of the long in the Highsome chamber erosion in front of the .22 long rifle, the .22-Mag can speed load is 1240-fps. However, due where the short case ends. stretch the range of varmint hunters to to the light bullet weight, the energy After this erosion occurs, it then be100 yards and, with good equipment, level is substantially below the long comes difficult to extract a long rifle possibly to 125 yards. rifle. case after it has been fired. So I do not Despite ballistic levels at ranges be• .22 long rifle — Without a doubt, recommend over-use of the .22 short in yond this, the Mag is not practical due the .22 long rifle is the most popular guns chambered for longer .22 ammo. to accuracy limitations. It is a cartridge cartridge ever designed, and it will sur- for the serious rimfire hunter who is For use on small game at ranges to 25 or 30 yards, the .22 short high-speed vive as long as shooters shoot. willing to buy equipment that will let The high-speed hollow-point verhollow point will work well. Even in him take advantage of the higher ensions can be used to 50 or 60 yards on this configuration, the short should ergy levels at the longer ranges. varmints as big as groundhogs if you never be used on anything larger than The noise level of the .22-Magnum is stick to head shots. Body shots should squirrels and rabbits, and then only at noticeably above the long rifle, but it never be attempted on animals this the ranges I have mentioned. does not approach being objectionable tough or large, regardless of the range. • .22 long — The long round still except, maybe, when used too close to Cripples do not gain us a thing. hangs on despite there being very little residential areas. For squirrel hunting, head shots are reason for its use. At one time, the long The .22 truly is the most valuable preferred to prevent damaging too was discontinued by one of the major recreation rifle or pistol ever designed.
RiverHillsTraveler.com By Bill Wakefield irst impressions are important and set the tone for things to come. My first impression of The Tackle Box was, what makes this place so popular? There were several cars and trucks parked in front of the building, a pickup truck pulling a boat was along the side, people walking down the street and going into The Tackle Box, and a group of folks sitting on the bench and chairs out front having an enjoyable time visiting. It looked like the local hangout for the town of Bismarck. To begin, this building is one of the best-looking bait shop buildings that I have seen. This 1930s-brownstone building was first a Texaco service station and then it became a pawn shop. After that it set empty for 20 years. In the summer of 2016 Lisa Brenneke bought the building, and she and Roger Knowles along with her daughters, Chelsea Brenneke and Rebecca Harris, and Lisa’s grandchildren brought the building back to life and started a bait shop. After a lot of renovation work to the building and receiving the proper license and permits from the State of Missouri and the Missouri Department of Conversation, the shop opened for business in August 2016. Opening a bait and tackle shop in her hometown seemed like a natural fit for Lisa. She had experience working in a previous bait shop for 5 years. She has always enjoyed the outdoors, in fact she wanted to be a park ranger when she was growing up. She truly loves to fish, especially for trout. She also likes old buildings and the history they represent, especially in her hometown of Bismarck, Mo. There are three different and distinct sections to The Tackle Box. The bait and tackle part of the business is to the right as you walk into the building. They have on hand the typical bait that you would expect a bait shop to carry — Fathead minnows, goldfish, frozen shad and herring, night crawlers, red wigglers, neon night crawlers, crickets, chicken and turkey livers, and prepared catfish baits such as Sonny’s and BJ. And they sell a lot of bait. During the busy season it is nothing for them to go through three to four thousand minnows, hundreds of containers of worms, and a hundred thousand plus crickets in a week’s time. Roger also prepares their own inhouse brand of trout bait called “The Original Fuji Trout Bait.” The center part of the building is the entry or lobby. This has the checkout counter and the wall of fame where the children of the area display photographs of the fish that they have caught. This is also where Roger prepares the bait for human consumption. On the weekends The Tackle Box has barbecue brisket, ribs, pulled pork sandwiches and baked beans. They hand-make a thin crust pizza which is served all day, and in the morning you can order up a plate of homemade bis-
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July 2017 • Page 5B
Tackle Box bait shop is the
Place to Go in Bismarck & St. Francois County
cuits and gravy. Their reputation for serving greattasting food is well known. Members of the various high school athletic teams stop in for a breakfast of biscuits and gravy before practice. People call in all day long to order their famous thin crust pizza. If you visit The Tackle Box’s Facebook page www.facebook.com/lisastacklebox, you will see the many compliments on their pizza. They have even made a delivery to Bismarck Lake. Fishermen, think about this. If you are out on the lake and having a good day fishing, then you ran out of night crawlers and you also forgot your lunch, just a simple phone call could solve both of your problems. The left side of the building is sort of a mini-mart where you can purchase fountain drinks; there are coolers with bottled water, soda and beer. There are all kinds of bagged snacks and candies. If you feel lucky you can pick up some lottery tickets along with your bait. If you were not as lucky as you were hoping to be at fishing, you can pick up a bottle of bourbon to help ease the pain. There is even a drive-thru window for your convenience. The Tackle Box is still a bait shop and a successful one. This is because of the commitment of Lisa, Roger, Chelsea and Rebecca to make sure that their customers have a pleasant experience in their outdoor adventure. This is truly a family business and it is Lisa’s hope that her children and then her grandchildren, Amelia, Mariah and Nicholas, continue serving the community. Hunters and fishermen can obtain their hunting, deer, turkey and fishing permits at The Tackle Box. There is a nice selection of soft plastic baits, fishing line, fishing hooks, weights, an assortment of fishing rods and reels, dip nets, minnow buckets and cricket containers. You will need to take a few minutes to look at the collection of antique fishing lures that Lisa’s grandfather made.
What’s even more impressive are the mounted fish hanging on the walls. There are rainbow trout (one of the big ones Lisa caught), a large mouth bass, a nice walleye and a head mount of a very large catfish with a bluegill in its mouth. Even more impressive than all of that is that all of these fish were caught locally. If there is a particular piece of tackle or equipment that you need for fishing, the staff will do their best to get it for you. To further accommodate their clients, The Tackle Box is open from 5 a.m. until 10 p.m. Weather conditions have an effect on fishing and sometimes pose a threat for the safety of the fisherman. Lisa constantly keeps an eye on the local weather reports and informs her customers of any impending threats. Lisa selected the town of Bismarck to start her business not only because it is her hometown, but Bismarck is in the center of one of the best Ozark recreation areas in the state. Bismarck Lake, Johnson’s Shut-Ins, and St. Joe State Park are just a few of the areas for camping enthusiasts. As for places to fish a person could spend days checking out Bismarck Lake, St. Joe State Park, Iron Mountain Lake, the St. Francois River, Big River and Council Bluff Lake. This area also has several private lakes with homes and weekend retreats located on them. I spent a very pleasant afternoon sitting on one of the chairs in front of the bait shop talking to Lisa and Roger. I enjoyed some pulled pork and had a slice of pizza and listened to Lisa share her vision for The Tackle Box and for the town of Bismarck. She and Roger want to expand their business to better serve the community and for a legacy for her children. She has had several conversations with the town’s mayor about one of the small ponds that is located on city property and turning it into a Kids Only Fishing Pond where neighborhood children can learn the art of angling. Maybe even have children fishing tournaments.
Bismarck has an outdoor family movie night at the park and Lisa is planning on being a sponsor for that event. The Tackle Box crew is also helping with the Fourth of July fireworks display for the town of Bismarck this year. Lisa enjoys children. You will often see her grandchildren (Amelia, Mariah & Nicholas) in the shop on weekends helping out. The owners of The Tackle Box would like the public to know that this is a safe and friendly family business where people can stop in and buy some fishing bait and fishing supplies, enjoy some good food and pleasant conversations. It is important to Liza to be part of someone’s great outdoor experience. Lisa recalls a time when she was trout fishing at one of the Missouri trout parks. She was using some of Roger’s Original Fuji Trout Bait and doing quite well catching rainbows. Next to her was a young girl, maybe 10 years old. She had been there all morning and hadn’t caught a thing, she never even had a bite. Lisa shared with her some magic Fuji Trout Bait, showed her how to put in on her hook, where to cast her line and what to look for when watching her bobber float downstream. The young girl followed Lisa’s instructions and it was no time at all before she was fighting her first rainbow trout. When she finally landed the trout she had tears in hers eyes from the sheer excitement and joy of a memorable fishing experience. This experience will last a lifetime for this young girl. Lisa, Roger and her daughters want everyone to have a good time when they go fishing and the shop is open 16 to 17 hours a day in order to achieve that goal. The Tackle Box is located at 721 S. Cedar St., Bismarck, MO 63624. Their phone number is (573) 734-8255. Stop in and have a seat on the front bench or chairs. Visit with the people of Bismarck as they stop by (these are very friendly folks). Listen to their stories about about seeing black bears around Holiday Shores and Pilot Knob. Some will even share with you where the fish are biting; if they won’t, Lisa will. Get a couple dozen minnows and a container of neon night crawlers and some good food to go and enjoy a great day of fishing. Because everybody is happy when they go fishing. (Editor’s note: If you have a favorite bait shop you’d like to see featured in the Traveler, please email Bill Wakefield at w3@charter.net.)
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You’re never too old to learn something from nature By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
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his year marks the 100th anniversary of Wildcat Glades Park in northern Newton County, Mo., just south of Joplin. “Last summer at our water festival we had several people come in and represent 10 different decades, and that was really neat for everyone,” said Donna Whitehead, with Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center. The facilities include an 11,000 sq. ft. nature center with a 1,300-gallon aquarium, classrooms, exhibits, and a library. Outdoors, there are four miles of trails with eco-type learning stations, a gazebo, and a small pavilion. Whether you're birdwatching, going on a hike, or attending a program, there is something for everyone at Wildcat Glades. You're never too young or old to learn something from nature. Through hands-on environmental education programs and activities, Wildcat Glades connect thousands of visitors to the natural world every year. The Audubon Center houses interactive exhibits and a children's discovery area. The outside trails travel alongside rivers and creeks and on top of scenic bluffs. Wildcat Park has existed under several names over the years, including Shoal Creek Park, Wildcat Springs, Spiva Park, and Whitmer Park. Shoal Creek served as one of the drawing forces of the early settlers to this site. The park featured towering chert bluffs, up to 100 feet thick, and a very picturesque view overlooking the creek. “It was first opened as a city park in July 1917," said Whitehead. The park opened on July 4 to a large crowd of bathers, and the park had a promenade, concession stands, a water slide and suspension bridge over Shoal Creek. It hosted many family gatherings, from the social elite to gypsy encampments, and a large theatre, dance pavilion and boathouse were built. Trains from town ran hourly from 10th and Main to the park. “The park has been here and has been a part of so many things in the community, and it’s a great honor to be still be here and going strong 100 years later,” said Whitehead. Artifacts from Native Americans who used cherts as arrowheads have been historically found within the park site and there is a rich history of explorers, farmers, miners and even notorious criminals. Frank and Jesse James visited the mill on several occasions and a local citizen witnessed Bonnie and Clyde crossing
Park received visitors from 48 different states in 2016 the Redings Mill bridge. John S. Reding built a grist mill on Shoal Creek in 1832 and it became a center for local farmers. It had a capacity to produce 100 barrels of flour a day and there was a cable ferry running north to west to pull loads across Shoal Creek. “In 1886 a one-lane steel bridge was built and in 1930 a new steel-reinforced concrete span was completed,” said Whitehead. It was 415 feet long, accommodating
two driving lanes with a five foot wide pedestrian walkway. It had four 30-foot arches and three 90-foot arches for support. “It serves as the trail head for Wildcat Park still today,” said Whitehead. “Wildcat Park continues to serve as a destination for families, conservationists, nature enthusiasts, and school groups." Over 55,000 people in 2016 used the nature trails to experience the beauty of Please see GLADES, 7B
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GLADES from 6B this habitat. “Last year we had visitors from 46 different states and 17 foreign countries,” said Whitehead. Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center has a mission to continue to protect and restore the natural resources for generations to come. Wildcat Glades works with over 100 volunteers in different positions anddifferent teams. “We have people in the nature store, we have people that like to work outside, and the front desk, just greeting people, we also have a cleaning crew, and a repair crew. It all just depends on what their interests are in and what they want to do,” said Whitehead. Carolyn M. Hale, a retired professor in the communications department at Missouri Southern State University in Joplin, has been a volunteer for the Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center for four years and is very much dedicated to her role as a volunteer. “I volunteered because I really enjoy the outdoors, gardening, trees, soil. When I was growing up my grandparents had the largest farm in southern Ohio and we spent a lot of time there,” said Hale. Hale said she was interested in taking her love for the outdoors to the next level by taking a course to be a Missouri Master Naturalist offered by the Missouri Department of Conservation, in cooperation with the MU Extension program at Missouri State in Springfield. “I took it because I wanted to know even more about nature, preserving the earth, and animals when I share my knowledge volunteering,” said Hale.
While taking this course, Hale went on several field trips to areas all over the state and got to hear presentations from people on several different topics. Now, she has taken that knowledge and applied it to her own life at her home. “We also had to have a special project while taking this course and mine was creating a butterfly garden. I knew a little about butterflies but I was able to learn so much more,” said Hale. Hale expressed that the program was a very worthy program for those who
have an interest in wildlife, and it has allowed her to expand her volunteering efforts. Hale volunteers once a week in the winter, and in the summer she volunteers more often than that due to the amount of programs and traffic the center gets. “Wildcat Glades is a very pleasant place to work and I love to see the programs that we offer to our children; introducing the outdoors to our children is very important,” said Hale. Throughout the years the Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center has had several programs for children and adults and long-time volunteers even go and present presentations to schools and other places. Along with the several programs and activities the center will be having for 2017, the final kick-off for celebrating 100 years of the park will be "A Midsummer Night Dinner on Redings Mill Bridge" on June 6. “We will be having a magical evening on the historic Redings Mill Bridge in-
cluding historical information and artifacts from the past 100 years,” said Whitehead. There will be a gourmet dinner served on linen and listening to the sounds and sights of Shoal Creek as the sun goes down. “Another very important thing we are gearing up for is the dedication of our new natural play areas for kids of all ages,” said Whitehead. On April 21, the center will open a playground unlike any other. There will be an eagle nest children can play in, they can build a tee-pee, tunnels, and also play with natural instruments. “It’s really playtime with education about nature, and we’re trying to encourage kids to get out in nature more and show them that nature is very important for their growth,” said Whitehead. The Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center is open year-round from 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday, and in March through October it's also open 1-5 p.m. on Sunday. For more information about programs, activities, or volunteering at Wildcat Glades, check them out on Facebook or their website at www.wildcatglades. audubon.org or call them at (417) 7826287.
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Fishing • Kayaking • RV camping • Cabins • And more! 84 Cat Hollow Trail, Lebanon, MO • (417) 532-4377 www.FORTNIANGUA.com
Conservation students take on unique jewel of Missouri’s waterways By Ashley Hollis ast summer the Missouri Collegiate Conservation Alliance (MCCA), and Conservation Leadership Corps (CLC) students, of Conservation Federation of Missouri, launched canoes and kayaks from Pulltite to float to Round Spring conducting a stream team cleanup of the Current River. Some participants were old floating pros, others less experienced, but all shared a love of the outdoors and being on the water. Students weren’t shy collecting trash; pulling bottles from aquatic plants, collecting plastic from the banks and diving down to retrieve trash trapped under the gravel. As the float progressed MCCA and CLC members pushed themselves in an attempt to fill their stream team bags to the top. Many students went out of the way to cross to an opposite bank or swim alongside the canoes with goggles to identify and remove litter. By the float’s end the bags were still fairly roomy, but the extra room showed the Current is still one of those rare natural treasures vastly unscathed from human damage. The Current River is a unique jewel of Missouri’s many waterways. Still pristine and teaming with wildlife, students enjoyed the company of great blue heron resting tranquilly along the shaded river and playful mink scurrying along the bank. CLC and MCCA students look forward to returning to the Current River this summer to enjoy a day out on the river and continue their stewardship.
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Critter of the Month: Gizzard shad • Species: Gizzard shad. • Scientific name: Dorosoma cepedianum. • Nicknames: Hickory shad, herring, skipjack. • Claim to fame: Although the gizzard shad’s tasteless flesh has no “skillet appeal” for anglers and the fish are seldom caught, this fish plays an important role in Missouri fishing. Young gizzard shad are one of the primary food sources for the state’s more popular sportfish species such as white bass, crappie and largemouth bass. Although their value is lessened when they become adults and begin to compete with other species for food and space, the link gizzard shad provide in the food chain of most reservoirs and larger streams is a vital one. • Species status: In Missouri, gizzard shad are one of the most common and widely distributed of the state’s fish species. One reason for this is the prolific reproduction
capabilities of the species. (A single female may produce more than a quarter-million eggs in a single year.) Another reason for the species’ abundance is that once gizzard shad reach adult size, they have few predators. • First discovered: The first scientific description of the gizzard shad was written by the French naturalist Charles Alexandre Lesueur in 1818. • Family matters: Gizzard shad belong to the Clupeidae family of fish – a group commonly known as the herrings. This family contains several salt-water species that are highly valued by commercial anglers. Most members of the herring family are silver, flat-sided fish that are easily recognizable by the row of sharp-edged scales along their midline. • Length: Adults are commonly nine to 14 inches in length, but specimens up to 20 inches have been found.
• Diet: Gizzard shad feed on microscopic invertebrates (zooplankton), free-floating algae and small aquatic insect larvae. Food is obtained by filtering water through the fish’s system of long, closely set gill-rakers. This is why these fish are seldom caught by anglers – they have no instinctual interest in going after anything that’s offered on an angler’s hook. • Weight: Most adult gizzard shad weigh a pound or less, but some have been known to grow to more than three pounds. • Distinguishing characteristics: The upper parts of the body are silvery-blue, which gradually changes to a silvery-white on the lower sides of the body and the belly. Adults have a large purplish spot just behind the upper end of their gill openings. Gizzard shad travel in large, more or less constantly moving schools that are often located near the water’s surface. It frequently leaps clear of the water or skips along its sur-
face, thus earning the nickname “skipjack.” • Life span: Four to six years is the average life span, but some gizzard shad have been known to live up to 10 years. • Habitat: Gizzard shad inhabit a variety of quiet-water habitats; including natural lowland lakes and ponds, man-made reservoirs, and the pools and back-water areas of streams.
• Life cycle: Gizzard shad usually spawn in Missouri from April well into the summer. Most spawning takes place in the shallow areas of coves and inlets. After spawning, the adhesive eggs that are released by the female sink to the bottom and attach to the first object they come in contact with. Eggs hatch in two to seven days. (source: MDC)
Washington State Park Thunderbird Lodge 13041 St. Hwy. 104 (south of DeSoto on MO 21)
(636) 586-2995 3 & 7 mile floats • Cabins • Camping Swimming pool • Kayaking/Tubing open April thru November!
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Horseback riding, camping & fun at Ponderosa By MATTIE LINK mattie@sextonmediagroup.com _____________
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onderosa Horse Campground & Event Center located at 1305 Ponderosa Road in Pineville, Mo., is not only a place for horses and their owners, but also family fun for everyone. “We cater to parties, weddings, reunions, regular campers, and campers with horses. It’s a really great family atmosphere,” said Debbie Parnell, owner and operator of Ponderosa Trails. Pineville is in McDonald County, in the far southwest corner of the the state. The campground was built by Don O’Brien on a dare in the 1980’s. “I bought the place eight years ago for my own personal use but people still came to camp, so here we are,” said Parnell. Parnell has eight horses of her own but has several horses that she takes care of. “Horses are my passion. I love working with them and riding them and watching them,” said Parnell. Ponderosa Campground has several people who train their horses and work with them in different settings. Ponderosa has obstacles for the horses to get through and also has outside pins as well as round pins for the horses to be in. “We have 100 horse stalls and 13 electric pins for the horses to use,” said Parnell. Each person is responsible for cleaning their own stall, and the price is $10 a stall. “There are all different kinds of riders
and I think it's interesting to see the different techniques and styles that people use,” said Parnell. Ponderosa is an open trail riding campground and is open year-round. “The only time our trail riding is closed is during deer gun season,” said Parnell. The Huckleberry Wildlife Management Area is where visitors come to ride the trail. “We also have access to Little Sugar
Float Trips C bins Cab i Condos Motels Riverfront Camping
Creek and we have several families that come and play in the water,” said Parnell. In addition to horse stalls and pens, Ponderosa also has 60 RV sites. “We have RV hookups of 110 or 30 and 50 AMP and we also have three bunks for those who would prefer that,” said Parnell. For people who aren’t interested in riding horses, there is a dining/game hall, outdoor stage, and basketball court to enjoy. “Aside from events, we usually do a big potluck night and people come and play games and eat... it's just a really great time,” said Parnell. The dining hall seats around 100 people and has a full kitchen. There are also shower houses available to those who stay at Ponderosa. “Most of our business is repeat busi-
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ness but we get new people, too,” said Parnell. Ponderosa Campground is within close proximity to shopping, dining, bowling, laundry, movies, canoeing as well as a veterinarian. In the summertime, most of the horseback riders go on the trail in the morning or evening to beat the heat but spend the day at the water. “We get several trainers during the day and every time you do anything with your horse, you’re training it. That’s something a lot of people don’t understand,” said Parnell. Well-behaved dogs are allowed as long as they are kept on a leash, but no stallions are allowed at Ponderosa Campground. “Most generally people who visit with their horses bring everything they need with them, but don’t forget your equine’s coggins when you visit,” said Parnell. For more information about Ponderosa Horse Campground, visit their website at www.ponderosatrails.net or give them a call at (417) 223-4081.
Drive-In Style M ies Movi Swim mming Pool Sand Volleyball
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Visit historic river towns & savor local food By Holly Neill e are gearing up for this year’s 100 mile, five-day paddle down the Missouri River and hope you can join us! This year’s event will start at Hermann and conclude one mile past the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. The Paddle MO event is a unique opportunity to explore North America’s longest river. This event will visit historic river towns, savor food and drink from the Missouri River Valley, offer a rare chance to immerse yourself in river life for five days, and have opportunities to visit with scientific and historical experts along the way. This excursion is not a race, but designed to give participants the opportunity to truly connect with one of Missouri’s greatest natural resources. Some of the benefits include: • Experience the wild beauty of North America’s longest river. • Explore, enjoy, relax; this is not a race. • Visit historic river towns and savor food produced locally. • Nightly camping in picturesque surroundings. • Visit with historical and scientific experts on the river. • Companionship and camaraderie with fellow paddlers. • 100% of the funds raised support Missouri waterways. Bring your boat and camping gear and we will take care of the rest. If you don’t have a boat, we can help you find one. If you don’t want to camp, we have B&B options! Here are some answers that may help ready your boat and wet your paddles.
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When does the event start? Sign-in and shuttles will occur on the afternoon and evening of Sept. 22. Paddling will occur on Sept. 23– 27. Pre-registration is required and going on now through June 30. What does my registration fee include? Your Paddle MO registration fee is all inclusive for five days and includes a journal with maps and river descriptions, T-shirt, boat decal, camping with facili-
ties, daily transportation, meals, entertainment, activities, educational opportunities, insurance, and special swag from our sponsors. Want to join just for the weekend? We’ve got you covered! We offer a Paddle Lite option that allows you to join for the Saturday and Sunday portions of the trip. Learn more and register at www.paddlemo.org. (Holly Neill is executive director of Stream Teams United.)
YO YO OU U AD UR DVENTU V URE AWA WAITS! AITS!
Photo of the Month
Getting some exercise
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hese are two of my favorite photos of trying to find ways to exercise my bird dogs at the same time. This turned out to be an excellent way to do this in downtown West Plains, where I live. However, the best way is to load into a trailer and take to the country for the real thing. All three of us received excellent exercise with the cart but did not last long. I still have both dogs, Jessie to the left and Freckles to the right. Both are excellent bird dogs and we make trips to Kansas each year for three days and hunt on the 20,000-acre Goodnight Ranch located below Dodge City, Kan.
We built a busines ss based on customer serviice and satisfaction. Yo our full line deale er for sales, from pop ups to diesel pushers. Stop by our eight acres located in South St. Louis County.
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July 2017 • Page 13B
It is possible to catch big bass on smaller waters T he cast was not perfect but I decided to fish it in anyway. The surface lure I was using was the perfect bait for this water on this particular evening. I was fishing a 6-acre lake that is the water reservoir for a small central-Illinois community. I was in a small, plastic two-man bass boat with an electric trolling motor. Gas motors are not allowed here. I had almost given up on the retrieve as the water around my lure exploded. The split second I set the hook my drag began singing and giving line. She bent my rod double and headed under the small boat. I fought her to the top and she rolled trying to get rid of the hook. She was a huge silver mass writhing in the water. She ran again and again I wrestled her to the surface. This time the net was waiting and a 10-pound, 2-ounce Illinois largemouth bass was mine. This is just one of dozens of huge bass I have taken from smaller bodies of water across the state. There are also many places that have excellent fishing that have no possible way to get a boat on. Farm ponds come to mind first in this discusMike Roux sion. ———— Many high-quality ponds and small lakes have no boat access. Some of these ponds are too small for boats and others just do not offer a good place to slide in even a small Jon boat. And quite often, anglers just do not have access to a boat. None of these conditions should constrict you from fishing these fantastically fun spots. Finding such spots is not really that difficult. The old practice of knocking on landowner’s doors to get permission to fish is still a very relevant method of gaining access to prime spots. Quite often farm ponds have catfish and bluegill in them as well as bass. The other species are usually the targets of the “family fishermen.” This leaves the bass unharrassed and ready to hit. When you arrive at the pond of your choice, a quick but thorough survey should be made. This is especially true about a pond you have never fished before. Valuable knowledge can be attained, even before this survey, by talking with the owner of the pond. While getting permission to fish, ask him about the pond. Find out the age of the pond. Also find out if it has been stocked. If so, when and with what species? Find out such things as depth, structure and the location of any man-made brush piles. Knowing these things can save you time… and lures. Even if this pond is one of your regular fishin’ holes, many things can change since you were there last. Be aware of current water conditions. Check the water level. When was the last significant rainfall? Is the water color constant, or is one end murkier than the other? Has the aquatic vegetation changed? Are there more weeds, less weeds, new weeds? Has the structure changed? Has wind dropped a tree into the pond? Have muskrats erected a “home-dome” in your pond?
Mike Roux’s specialty is the ability to find the biggest bass in smaller bodies of water.
Catching big bass is more than just an accident if you modify your techniques and hunt for the big gals.
All of these changes can affect the way you fish a body of water. Be aware of the subtle changes and know how to benefit from them. Of those mentioned, water color is maybe the most critical. Most ponds are fed by either run-off or a single, small feeder branch. After rains, these little creeks will flush not only dirt and silt into the pond, but food sources for fish, as well. Be sure to fish the color break heavily. Find where the normal-colored pond water meets the cloudy, chocolate milk of the incoming run-off. Also be sure to fish this area from both banks. Fish will stage around this color change to feed. After you finish your initial survey, start fishing the shady side first, if there is a shady side. Chances are, before you are finished, the sun’s movement will have created new shaded areas. Unless you are fishing heavy cover, stay in the shade as much as possible. Most ponds have at least a partial dam. The ends of the dam often form corners. These spots will hold fish and should be fished several times each trip. Always fish parallel to the bank when possible. I sometimes wear rubber hip boots. This allows me to stay close to the water or even take a step or two out, to improve my casting angle. The most common mistake made when fishing a pond is not fishing the best areas first. Often, a pond has a finger of land that sticks out into the water. The first inclination for most fishermen is to go right out to the end of the point to begin casting. The natural assumption is that you can cover more water from out there. That thought is a good one, but should not take precedence over the fact that the point itself is probably holding fish. You should begin by fishing both sides of the point, in a parallel fashion. As you fish out, toward the end, be sure to make several casts beyond the point. This allows you to retrieve right through the prime water. Repeat the process several times from the other side of the point, as well. After successful and thoroughly fish-
ing out to the point, then turn around and repeat your casts from the point. Fish parallel on both sides and cast to other water off the point, too. When you leave a point to resume fishing around the pond, remember to fish the point again before you leave. Fish are creatures of habit. They will return to these favorite spots. A good example of bank fishing a pond happened to me just this past May. I always have a Jon boat in my truck during turkey season. We all know that spring not only means gobbling toms and mushrooms, but great fishing as well. You just never know when a good looking farm pond may appear before you. I was hunting in Hancock County, Illinois. I planned to hunt ‘til noon, lunch and nap for a couple of hours, then slide my boat into a pond and fish until suppertime. My plans changed very early that morning. At 7:15 a.m. I was finished turkey hunting. A 23-pound gobbler had cut my hunt short and extended my fishing all at once. After s quick call to check in my bird, I was off to the pond. “I should be fishin’ by 8 o’clock,” I said to myself. But my plans got changed again. The road leading to the pond crossed a small field. I should say the road that used to lead to the pond. The farmer’s chisel plow had erased the possibility of me driving to the pond. This meant I had to walk, with no boat. This minor turn of events did not, however, dampen my spirits. Many big bass have been “lipped” from the bank instead of a boat. I got to the pond and gave a quick look around. About 90 percent of the water was still in the morning shade. Not much had changed since my last visit. The water color was constant, about like iced tea. I sat down and put on my hip boots. Carrying them across the plowed field was much easier than wearing them. After tying on a white spinnerbait, I headed for the south end of the pond. This hole is oval-shaped, so I was going to fish the two “small” ends first. There is an old fence through the south
end, about 20 feet out in the water. I guess in the past it had kept cattle out of the rest of the water. This fence and its posts are great structure to fish around. It would be a bit tricky from the bank, but certainly not impossible. My first several casts were to the inside, and parallel to the fence. No luck. “Maybe deeper,” I thought. A large multi-flora rose hampered my casting on the outside of the fence. I waded in several yards from the fence and slowly worked my way back to it. I wanted to maintain my parallel casting without disturbing too much water underfoot. I connected with a 15-inch largemouth on my third cast outside the fence. I circled the pond and repeated the process from the other bank, with very similar results. This told me the bass were holding in about 4 feet of water. Because of that fact, I adjusted my casting method to compensate. Instead of casting parallel and very close to the bank, I opened up the angle a bit to keep my bait in the strike zone as long as possible on each cast. I did not make a trip to the taxidermist that day, but I did manage to catch a dozen nice bass. I really do not think a boat would have given me any advantage that day. The fish I took from the bank came from being able to read the pond and find the pattern. Most average anglers view fishing small impoundments as a piece of cake. The logic is; “There is not much water. How tough can it be?” These average fishermen usually catch an average number of fish, of average size, from a small lake. Being able to “read” the habitat and conditions, and having the mobility of a boat, can greatly increase your chances to be better than average. Let’s examine some points of fishing a smaller spots from a boat and see if we can find something to improve your odds. The main advantage to fishing a little lake from a boat is to be able to cast to places that are too difficult to reach from the shore. Also, fish tend to rest and feed in the shade from trees on the bank. These spots are sometimes hard to hit when trying a parallel bank casting method. A boat also allows you to find the deep spots for vertical jig-type fishing. With a boat, you are able to approach structure from a much better vantage point. For example, a tree has been blown over and lies in the water. With a boat you can not only make parallel casts along both sides, but you can also fish the end of the tree, as well. Chances are that the end of the tree is closer to deeper water than are the sides. Because of this, the end probably holds bigger fish that anywhere else, including inside the limb structure of the tree. The summary here is that smaller bodies of water should definitely not be overlooked when hunting for trophysized bass. Quite often totally ignored ponds and lakes under 20 acres hold world-class largemouth. (Mike Roux is the Midwest Regional Director for the Fellowship of Christian Athletes (FCA) Outdoor Ministry. To become a Home Team Member of this new ministry, call him at 217257-7895.)
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Where no tire is safe: enter the Mighty 211 Stream Team By Amy Meier he Missouri Stream Team program is a citizen movement to conserve Missouri’s flowing waters, with goals of stewardship, education, and advocacy for streams. The program is sponsored by the Conservation Federation of Missouri, as well as the Missouri Departments of Conservation and Natural Resources which provide supplies and technical assistance. Whether by foot, canoe, kayak, or jon boat, over 227,000 individuals have removed more than 20,000,000 pounds of trash from Missouri’s waterways since 1989. In that time, teams have also planted nearly 265,000 streamside trees, stenciled over 17,000 storm drains, and conducted more than 25,000 water quality surveys. That adds up to a commitment of over 2.2 million hours of volunteer service to the resource, not accounting for the many efforts that go unreported each year.
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This is the story of just one of over 4,000 active Stream Teams. What happens when citizens with a passion for clean water and genuine contempt for carelessly discarded tires come together? The result is the Mighty 211 Stream Team from Arnold, Mo. “Mighty” is certainly no exaggeration
for this team with nearly 400 members. A powerhouse of hard-working volunteers, they enlist dozens of other Stream Teams in their mission to make tires an extinct species in Missouri rivers. Since 1991, the Mighty 211 and friends have removed over 1,000 tons of garbage and thousands of tires from streams in the greater St. Louis area. One of their adopted streams is the Big River. Historical practices that used tires for bank stabilization and sediment control at mining operations have made this river a hotbed for recent cleanups. Long-time Mighty 211 member Brian Waldrop reflected on one cleanup in 2012 that yielded some amazing results. “Some of the best Stream Teamers from across the state gathered at Bone Hole Access to collect every tire, within means, from the river and gravel bars, said Waldrop. “These fine paddlers, in 25 canoes and one kayak, became divers, diggers, draggers, pullers, pushers, flippers, pluckers,
and stackers for the day. In six miles, we pulled out 325 tires.” Every year, the Mighty 211 returns to that stretch of the Big River, pulling every tire they can carry. In 2013, a massive, one-ton tire demanded the efforts of six strong adults to hoist it onto two canoes. The paddlers had to maintain a balancing act downstream for nearly three miles before finally liberating it. A cleanup effort like this would be financially difficult, if not impossible, without community collaboration and support. Aside from the substantial elbow grease donated by volunteers yanking tons of tires and debris, outfitter Cherokee Landing and others donate boats and shuttle services, landowners provide access and assistance, and the Missouri Department of Natural Resources handles tire disposal. With that kind of backup, no tire can beat a team with as much heart and determination as the Mighty 211.
American elm in Johnson County topples old record holder from St. Louis
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n American elm tree in western Missouri now holds the state champion crown for its species. The elm in northeast Johnson County entered the Missouri Department of Conservation’s (MDC) record book with a total score of 353 based on height, circumference and crown spread. The Kansas City area tree toppled the old record of an elm in St. Louis that had a score of 342. Chuck Conner, MDC community forester, measured the tree in April. The tree was 85 feet tall, with a trunk 236 inches in circumference at a spot 4.5 feet from the ground, and it had a crown spread of 126 feet. Those measurements go into a formula used for de-
termining state champion trees. Dutch elm disease often kills elms before they reach large sizes. But some large elms in the Kansas City area have escaped the disease, Conner said. This elm grew up in a fencerow on a property line, giving two different landowners claim to a champion tree. The landowners and precise location are not being released since the tree is on private ground. For a complete list of Missouri’s state champion trees, how to nominate them and how they are scored, visit www.mdc.mo.gov/trees-plants/missouri-statechampion-trees.
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