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NYFW 2021
GAZETTE
TRUE COLORS NEW YORK IS BACK, BETTER, AND MORE FASHIONABLE THAN EVER
Your smile is your number 1 accessory
Luxury in simplicity “There is spirit and there are objects. There is the human being and his extraordinary capabilities.”
www.ciprianifood.com Venice . New York . Miami . Las Vegas . Mexico City . Punta Del Este . Ibiza Monte Carlo . Milan . Dubai . Abu Dhabi . Riyadh . Doha . Moscow . Hong Kong
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NYFW 2021
Cartier Clash Launch Event in Los Angeles. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARC PATRICK FOR BFA.
From left: Ezra William, Tina Leung, Prabal Gurung, and Nicky Hilton Rothschild.
THE SCENE & The Seen As we return from vacation and emerge from lockdowns, fall events have a special kind of sparkle.
From top left: Dan Levy, Lily Collins, Mercedes Abramo, and Finneas; Dove Cameron; Mia Moretti and Nicky Hilton Rothschild; Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Renell Medrano; Finneas; Benjamin Bronfman and Aurora James; Kathy Hilton and Dan Levy; Julia Gall, Rebecca Ramsey, Shiona Turini, and Nikki Ogunnaike; Ali Pew and Sam Boroekema; Lily Collins.
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VOLUME SIX
The Obama Portraits Opening Reception at the Brooklyn Museum. PHOTOGRAPHS BY SANSHO SCOTT FOR BFA.
From left: Kennedy Cruz and Victor Cruz; Jonathan Gardenhire and LaQuan Smith; Kehinde Wiley and Antwaun Sargent; Barack Obama White House Portrait by Kehinde Wiley; Michelle Obama White House Portrait by Amy Shearld.
Fleuriste St-Germain Pop-up Launches in Collaboration with Laura Kim & James Whiteside in New York City.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY HAGOP KALAIDJIAN FOR BFA.
From left: Martha Hunt; Max Harwood; Maye Musk; Neil Patrick Harris, Jane Krakowski and David Burtka.
From left: Laura Kim and James Whiteside; Phillip Lim, Ezra J. William, Tina Leung, Laura Kim, James Whiteside, and Prabal Gurung.
Special Hamptons screening of Everybody’’s Talking About Jamie in East Hampton.
Parrish Art Museum Midsummer Dance with James Murphy DJ Set in Watermill PHOTOGRAPHS BY YVONNE TNT FOR BFA.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOE SCHILDHORN FOR BFA. .
From left: Rashid Johnson, Sheree Hovsepian, Kelly Taxter, and Larry Milstein; Kit Keenan and Cynthia Rowley.
GRAZIA USA
London Designed, Artisan Made Handbags and Accessories RADLEYLONDON.COM
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VOLUME SIX
IN THE Issue
15
THE NEW & THE NOW
21
WELCOME BACK TO THE RUNWAY
MOST WANTED
Grazia may be new to US readers, but we’ve been overwhelmed by the warm welcome: at GraziaMagazine.com, on our social channels, and in response to our first-ever print product in the US, this summer’s Grazia Gazette: The Hamptons. Which brings us to Grazia Gazette: NYFW, our look at the people, places, and trends you need to know to celebrate the return of the American runway. Our global team of writers and experts have come back from the beach to round up all the best of the week and put it directly in your hands. We spoke to the designers from IMG’s Fashion Alliance who will be defining the future of NYFW about the importance of celebrating the continued unity and ingenuity of the American fashion community— and met a few of their inspiring muses along the way. Steven Kolb also sat down with us to discuss the evolution of the CFDA and the vital role the organization played in ensuring the bold return of American designers to the runway. Our team of contributors have uncovered the best places to eat, drink and relax between shows this week. So, welcome back to the runway! The shows are here and Grazia Gazette: NYFW is ready to be your guide to a stylish—and safe—week full of joy, optimism, and inspiration as we celebrate the resilience and strength of America’s largest fashion event. See you at the shows!
David Thielebeule Editor in Chief / Chief Creative Officer
DAVID’S NYFW PICKS
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LOOKING FORWARD
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COVER STORY
58 I WON’T
LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT
NYFW 2021
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The Row sweater, $1,495, mrporter.com.
GRAZIA USA
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Saint Laurent jeans, $790, mrporter.com.
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Bottega Veneta blazer, $2,650, mrporter.com.
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Loewe boots, $650, bergdorfgoodman.com.
GAZETTE
Something SPECIAL AURORA JAMES
THE DESIGNER, ACTIVIST, AND CONSUMMATE MULTI-HYPHENATE SHARES SECRET SOURCES OF INSPIRATION AND WHERE SHE’S HEADING NEXT
ON COVER 1 Aurora James, photographed by Menelik Puryear. Sergio Hudson bodysuit, $425, available at Bergdorf Goodman, and coat, $2,695, available at Neiman Marcus; Earrings, her own.
VOLUME SIX
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n March of 2020, during the early days of what would become a global pandemic, I found myself driving with colleagues through the Alps. News had broken that Milan was tragically emerging as the epicenter of something called COVID-19 and rumor was that it had arrived to Italy via Malpensa airport. So, after the Dolce and Gabbana show we piled our substantial luggage (four fashion editors packed for a month of shows don’t travel light) and headed for the next stop on the global fashion circuit: Paris. Bypassing Malpensa, we thought the worst was behind us. How wrong we were. It was a challenging year (nearly two, now), for so many reasons, but as a light begins to glow in the distance, I am so thrilled we are back at NFYW! Chairs may be a bit further apart (we always complained about those cramped benches anyway) and masks are still de rigueur in the front row, but we are finally seeing clothes (and accessories, and breathtaking hair and makeup) in person again. Fashion thrives on what is new and at Grazia USA we are quite literally the new kid on the block. An eighty-three-year-old brand with a legacy of sophistication, wit, beauty, and intelligence,
NYFW 2021
ON COVER 2
G A Z E T T E Sasha GAZETTE
TRUE COLORS NEW YORK IS BACK, BETTER, AND MORE FASHIONABLE THAN EVER
Pivovarova, photographed by Menelik Puryear. Jason Wu Collection dress, $5,295, available at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Bellissima Prosecco by CHRISTIE BRINKLEY
BRUT DOC, ROSÉ & ZERO SUGAR SPARKLING WINES bellissimaprosecco.com
100% MADE WITH ORGANIC GRAPES & CERTIFIED VEGAN
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VOLUME SIX
GAZETTE BRENDAN MONAGHAN Executive Vice President, Global Chief Brands Officer
DAVID THIELEBEULE Editor In Chief, Chief Creative Officer BRIAN CAMPION Executive Creative Director
FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES Our coterie of Hamptonites who embody success, culture, change, and the art of living well
CASEY BRENNAN Executive Editor At Large KEVIN SESSUMS Editor At Large GABRIELLE PRESCOD Market Director RAVEN BAKER Social & Audience Director DEBORAH DRAGON Director of Publishing Operations KATHLEEN BURNS Editorial Coordinator DIANE HODGES Copy Editor
SERENA WILLIAMS
The tennis legend debuts a new collection with the Serena Williams Nike Design Crew after tapping 10 emerging underrepresented designers from Parsons, Harlem’s Fashion Row, and the New York Fashion Institute, highlighting the 23-time champion player’s own personal style.
RUBA ABU-NIMAH
The executive creative director at Tiffany & Co. is helping the iconic jewelry brand reach a younger generation of fans with bold choices like nabbing Beyoncé for the latest campaign.
CONTRIBUTORS TY GASKINS TAYLOR HARRIS AMANDA MITCHELL AARON RASMUSSEN JUSTIN ROSE JOHN RUSSELL MIA UZZELL
IAN SCHRAGER
With more than a dozen new properties in development from Tokyo to Rome and Doha to Madrid, the legendary hotelier— credited with helping create the “boutique hotel” concept—shows no signs of slowing down.
MAGGIO CIPRIANI
As president of the Cipriani USA and a fourth-generation member of the acclaimed hospitality family, he has helped transform a downtown Manhattan ferry terminal into Casa Cipriani, a private club and hotel that is already the most buzzed-about opening of the fall.
DIGITAL JESSICA BAILEY International Editorial Director LILY CHEN Digital Director CHARLOTTE STOKES Fashion Director GRACE O’NEILL Fashion Writer REBEKAH CLARK Features Writer EMILY ALGAR Beauty Editor SHELTON BOYD-GRIFFITH Special Projects Editor
SHONDA RHIMES
Rhimes’s Shondaland TV production company and Netflix have stepped into the fashion and retail space with a Bridgertoninspired footwear and accessories line in partnership with Malone Souliers following the success of a sold-out Hill House Home Nap Dress.
JOSH SOKOL Multimedia Producer KATE LANCASTER Contributing Beauty Editor ISABELLE TRUMAN Contributing Editor
MICHAEL KORS
HEADQUARTERS
100 Broadway, 11th Floor, New York, NY 10005 • PHONE (917) 231-8680 • EDITORIAL contact@graziausa.com • ADVERTISING sales@graziausa.com • MEDIA press@graziausa.com © 2021 Mondadori Media S.p.a. All rights reserved. Published by PANTHEON MEDIA GROUP LLC with the permission of Arnoldo Mondadori Editore S.p.a. and Mondadori Media S.p.a. Reproduction in any manner in any language in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited.
GRAZIA USA
DEREK LAM
After shuttering his eponymous line in 2019, the designer is set to launch a direct-toconsumer brand, Derek Lam 10 Crosby, as the chief creative officer with an initial focus on denim and e-commerce.
Celebrating 40 years in the fashion industry is no small feat, but it’s one that Kors has been able to achieve thanks to his ever-evolving styles. A stunning new campaign to celebrate the label’s ruby anniversary features Bella Hadid, Naomi Campbell, and Adut Akech.
L: 9.5 inches
NFT This.
SUMMER NIGHTS INSPIRED BY MYKONOS W E E K E N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T W I T H L I V E M U S I C
Southampton calissahamptons.com
The ultimate shop-a-thon is taking over Downtown.
September 10 12 – 8pm Washington Street at W 14th Street Join the mega street party at Afterpay Quarter, and hitch free pedicab rides to all the NYFW: ShopsNY action.
THE NEW & THE NOW
NYFW 2021
VOLUME SIX
SAINT THEO’S: A Transcendent Experience The new Italian eatery has perfected the holy trinity of flavorful food, fun vibes, and fantastic decor. BY AARON RASMUSSEN PHOTOGRAPHY ERICA SCHROEDER
H
ops across the pond to Italy all but ceased during the pandemic. Although the European country is slowly reopening, New Yorkers need no longer travel to enjoy a taste of the best Italy has to offer thanks to Saint Theo’s, the buzzy new West Village spot from restaurateur Kyle Hotchkiss Carone of American Bar. A nod to Saint Theodore, the first patron saint of Venice, patrons are treated to a different sort of religious experience: a grand tour of Venetian and coastal Italian-influenced dishes created by Culinary Director Carolina Santos-Neves and Executive Chef Ashley Rath. Inspiration for the menu came from the Italian coast and its beach clubs “where summer memories are of beautifully, simply prepared fishes and meats,” Hotchkiss Carone says. The idea was to serve food the way Venetians do—a relaxed meal with wine at a small bar called a bacaro. “We set out to bring that to a New York setting that felt clubby but welcoming; fun and energetic but refined,” Hotchkiss Carone explains. The culinary journey at Saint Theo’s kicks off with cicchetti, (“small snacks”), including fried beech and royal trumpet mushrooms with anchovy emulsion, hand-creamed cod, and breaded beef meatballs with a fig jus. Appetizers follow and include beef carpaccio, and focaccia with prosciutto, but the seafood options, such as a tuna crudo served with pistachio, Castelvetrano olives, and preserved lemon, make an especially sensorial splash. Entree selections are similarly seafood-rich, from Venetianstyle cuttlefish in ink over polenta to a whole roasted branzino prepared with salsa verde, mint, and basil. No Italian menu, however, is complete without pasta—and Saint Theo’s delivers with simple yet elevated dishes made with Italian staples like ricotta and pesto. Strawberries and cream, olive cake, and other desserts complete the meal; inventive cocktails like Death in Venice, a mixture of mezcal, Calabrian-chili tincture, fresh sage, Aranciata Rossa, and lime, give the experience that extra edge. Just as enjoyable to drink up is the atmosphere. Beveled mirrors, Venice Biennale exhibition posters, and framed Pirelli calendars line the walls, while Murano glass sconces dot the decorative tin ceiling. The vintage-meets-modern design is all tied together with designer Martin Brudnizki’s signature touches, including emerald walls and linen banquettes in avocado green. “It’s a hodgepodge of Italian inspiration and beauty,” Hotchkiss Carone says. As with other Manhattan hot spots, the draw of Saint Theo’s isn’t just the food and decor. The establishment’s vibe has attracted the see-and-be-seen crowd dining out downtown— fashion designer Prabal Gurung, Gossip Girl-reboot actor Evan Mock, and other New York luminaries have already breezed through the doors—but everyone understands the true star here will always be the food. sainttheos.com
GRAZIA USA
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‘THIERRY MUGLER: Couturissime’ Displays a Retrospective That Follows a Fashion Titan Through Time and Innovation BY JOSH SOKOL
Returning the mark of a visionary artist to Paris, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs presents the exhibition Thierry Mugler: Couturissime, produced by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA). The show will run from September 30, 2021, to April 24, 2022, and will feature and retrace the work of fashion titan Thierry Mugler. Mugler, an artist, singular in vision and execution, revolutionized the world of fashion and revamped the concept of haute couture through a revolutionary and creative lens that merged a camp sensibility with elegance. The exhibition will take place in the newly renovated Christine and Stephen A. Schwarzman Fashion Galleries of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. This location will host a retrospective of Mugler’s impact on the industry of fashion. Opening in an aquatic theme filled with nautical fauna in an opulent genesis, the exhibition flows into Mugler’s Insect and Chimères Collection from 1997 to 1998, a show that offers two floors of work, embodying the notion of “as above, so below.” The retrospective follows Mugler through time, displaying his growth as an icon of 20th-century fashion.
COACH goes rogue
Archival bags have undoubtedly been in high demand this past year. Gucci revived its eponymous Jackie 1961 bag and Princess Diana’s favorite bamboohandle tote, while Prada revamped their nylon bags and the Fendi Baguette was brought back to life. Joining these iconic revivals, Coach has reintroduced its classic Rogue bag in exciting new colorways. Inspired by free spirits, rebels, and dreamers, the Rogue bag is sure to be a hit with nostalgic Gen Z shoppers. The campaign stars Jennifer Lopez, Kate Moss, Kōki, Ma Zhe, Lu, and Xiao Wen Ju—photographed by Juergen Teller and styled by Olivier Rizzo. The campaign tells the story of the Rogue’s iconic legacy shot in iconic locations around the world—including London Bridge, LA’s Griffith Park and the Bund in Shanghai. The re-release is just more proof that fashion is cyclical and what’s old is new again. – TY GASKINS
FALL Haul
Coach bag, $595, coach.com
Lisa Jacobs and her team at Imagine It Done are here to help organize your life. BY CASEY BRENNAN
FRESCO Goes Al Fresco
BY CASEY BRENNAN
As the city slowly gets back to normal, Midtown has been slower to emerge. But Italian favorite Fresco by Scotto is now bringing a literal breath of fresh air to the neighborhood with a stunning new open-air dining garden. “The outdoor area, which we call the Lemon Orchard, is reminiscent of a famous restaurant in Capri called Da Paolino,” co-owner and Good Day New York anchor Rosanna Scotto tells Grazia Gazette: NYFW. frescobyscotto.com
GRAZIA USA
There’s no home organization project that Lisa Jacobs, founder and CEO of Imagine It Done, can’t handle. Since creating the business in 2004, Jacobs has helped countless clients in New York and the tristate area get their homes in order. “Whether you’re moving, decluttering the home you’ve lived in for a lifetime, or preparing for a major life event, Imagine It Done will help you create systems and methods that fit your lifestyle and budget,” Jacobs tells Grazia Gazette. “The goal is always to create spaces that aren’t only to live in, but rather a home you’ll love.” imagineitdoneny.com
THE NEW & THE NOW
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THIS IS WHERE the Fashion Set Will Be (Masked + Vaxxed) Partying During NYFW
Diptyque candle, $105, diptyqueparis.com.
DIPTYQUE CELEBRATES 60TH ANNIVERSARY
TOURNEAU BUCHERER Makes A WellTimed Debut
The newly renamed Breitling Navitimer 41 brand also opens the doors Chronograph Bucherer Blue, to a new Midtown boutique. $7,250. Tourneau, a well-known watch and jewelry powerhouse in Europe, and Bucherer, a major player in the United States, created the perfect harmony of luxury timepieces when coming together back in 2018. This month, Tourneau and Bucherer have reunited for their first store opening, on Manhattan’s East 57th Street (Tourneau will also now be known as Tourneau Bucherer). The now-open store, formerly the iconic Tourneau Time Machine, still holds the label’s DNA while offering new touches for all to experience. Along with the new monumental store, an array of products have also launched, including both the iconic Bucherer Blue and the Bucherer Fine Jewelry collections (previously a European exclusive), which are now available for the first time in the U.S. market. tourneau.com – TY GASKINS
WHISKEY Returns To Downtown NYC
The first of its kind in New York City since Prohibition in the 1920s, Great Jones Distilling Co. recently opened in NoHo, bringing whiskey to the island. Founded by Proximo Spirits and 11thgeneration spirits maker Juan Domingo Beckmann, Great Jones Distilling Co. offers a selection of whiskeys, including three signature expressions that are made with grains grown in the Black Dirt region Upstate. Along with tours and tastings, the 28,000-square-foot, four-story distillery features a cocktail bar, a restaurant, and an event venue. Cheers to that. greatjonesdistillingco.com - JOSH SOKOL
To celebrate Diptyque’s 60th anniversary, the parfumerie will launch the Le Grand Tour, consisting of three collections: The Limited Edition, The Artist Edition, and Decoration. The Grand Tour takes Diptyque fans on a journey to the destinations that pay homage to the brand’s history and three founders; the brand will bring the experience to life with a New York pop-up opening in Chelsea from September 10 to October 10 at 69 Gansevoort. diptyqueparis.com – TY GASKINS
BY TY GASKINS
Oh, how great it is to be back bouncing around in person from show to show this season! And what better way to keep the excitement of New York Fashion Week going than with a fashion afterparty? It’s no secret that the fashionable set loves a good party. Now that many of us are vaxxed and following safety measures, those coveted invites just hit different. Although most events during NYFW require a personal invitation, you can join the late-night action at these spots frequented by models, designers, and influencers—just don’t forget your ID and vaccination card.
THE BLOND The Blond on Howard Street isn’t an ordinary hotel bar. Although intimate and great for date night, the Blond, the go-to for the cool crowd, has hosted Kate Upton’s birthday bash, the Christian Siriano after-party—and even a rare glimpse of Mary-Kate Olsen.
BOOM BOOM ROOM / LE BAIN If you know, you know. If not, this is one of the places to be during Fashion Week. The fashion crowd has been hung upon this venue for years. Remember Madonna’s legendary “surprise” party during Pride this year? That was here, too.
GITANO Holding on to the last few warm days of the year? Make the most of it at this Tulum-themed boîte, conveniently located across from NYFW venue Spring Studios. Come for the margaritas and stay for the gypsy music vibes playing all night long.
MOTEL 23 If you’re looking for models and bottles, head to Chelsea’s Motel 23. Flooded with New York’s model, fashion, and cool-kid scene on the fashion calendar, Motel 23 is New York’s answer to Paris’s Matignon. Expect shows on the stage and cotton candy. (Yup, you read that right).
PAUL’S CASABLANCA Make your way past the long lines and crowds, and Paul’s Casablanca offers some of the best nightlife in NYC. Timothée Chalamet and Emily Ratajkowski are fans, and Ty Sunderland calls the venue home for his weekly Wednesday party. Just remember: Absolutely no photos.
GRAZIA USA
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VOLUME SIX
LA DOLCE Vita
Felice Columbus opens with delicious fanfare.
MIND Matters
From model to mental health advocate, Nick Bracks is breaking barriers and shattering stigmas.
There’s another must-snag reservation on the Upper West Side: the newest incarnation of beloved Italian eatery Felice. Originally opened in 2007 on the Upper East Side, the restaurant has expanded to locations downtown and in Brooklyn, all of which serve authentic Italian cuisine made with seasonal, local ingredients. The menu at the bi-level uptown spot features staple dishes like the fusilli al ferretto e burrata and pappardelle con salsiccia, along with butter balsamic cipollini and pickled artichoke. Plus, there’s an extensive cocktail list that includes eight different varieties of the classic negroni. “The translation of ‘Felice’ is happy–and that’s what we’re trying to achieve with the space. We want to offer a reprieve to New Yorkers who work hard every day,” shares partner and COO Jacopo Giustiniani. felicenyc.com – CASEY BRENNAN
BY JOSH SOKOL
From a young age, Nick Bracks knew that the way his brain worked was different. Crippled by overthinking and obsessive thoughts, he suffered in silence for years out of fear. Still, his struggles manifested in other ways: During his childhood and teenage years, he always sought to be the center of attention, even going as far as to train six hours a day to be a professional athlete at 11 years old. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Bracks burnt out by the end of high school, putting an end to his athletic endeavors. Adrift like never before, he decided to take a gap year between high school and college—maybe the worst decision he could have made. Without the structure of school and training, Bracks increasingly isolated, trying to hide his true self from the people around him. Hiding his secret life of pain became ever more difficult as Bracks was scouted by modelling agencies and cast on the Australian version of Dancing with the Stars. Photo shoots for Myers, David Jones, and GQ magazine followed. But as Bracks spent more and more time in the spotlight, his thoughts became even darker. “The competitive and uncertain nature of the modeling industry can easily lead to burnout and stress,” he tells Grazia Gazette: NYFW. “Having had firsthand experience in the modeling industry I have seen how much of a toll it can take on your mental health. It is an industry that brings uncertainty, is highly competitive, and always changing. You have to have a level of self-belief and confidence to stay stable in that environment, making mental health paramount.” Ultimately, Bracks was able to find the tools to turn his life around. Now he is on a mission to help others do the same. Alongside his various other pieces of writing and acts of mental health advocacy, Bracks has just released his debut book, Move Your Mind: How to Build a Healthy Mindset for Life, published by Wiley and available in the United States on September 14. The book follows Bracks’s own experiences struggling with mental health, and offers advice, information, and practical tools to make space for positive changes. “We often get caught up in looking at things short-term and wanting instant results. This is rarely sustainable,” Bracks said in an interview with Grazia Gazette. “If we can take a long-term approach and get the fundamentals right it is much more likely that we will not only have a long and healthy career, but also a healthy life.” So, what does he see as the key elements of a healthy life, in body, mind, and soul? “I have seen countless psychologists over the years, which was helpful, but the main tools I have learned have come from personal trial and error,” Bracks says. “A lot of studies show exercise being as effective—if not more so—than many antidepressants. My other daily routines involve transcendental meditation, breathing exercises, gratitude journaling, and—most importantly—having unconditional relationships that support me daily, and vice versa.” So, what’s next for Bracks? In addition to his debut book, he is also the host of the Move Your Mind podcast and educational courses, in addition to working toward extending his message to a television show centered around the same topic of mental health and wellness in the hopes that others will seek the help they need. For more mental health resources, visit nickbracks.com.
GRAZIA USA
CURL Cure
The new products from cult haircare line BREAD Beauty Supply are all about scalp health. BREAD Beauty Supply, the dream haircare line for those specifically with 3a-4c curly hair, is expanding its line of curly hair must-haves to focus on scalp care. BREAD’s latest launch includes the scalp-serum exfoliating scalp treatment—an antioxidant-rich, rinse-out reset treatment that uses plantbased exfoliants to gently, chemically remove product buildup and dead skin while stimulating the scalp—as well as the mud-mask: hair and scalp clay detox, an allover scalp, and hair clay mask, designed to keep your curls poppin’. Inspired by nutrient-rich super-greens, these pre-shampoo treatments are gentle, fragrancefree, and leave your scalp and hair feeling rejuvenated. breadbeautysupply.com – AMANDA MITCHELL
SWEAT It Out
An at-home infrared sauna from HigherDose is the new musthave for NYFW recovery.
What better way to recover from the insanity of Fashion Week than with a good sweat? We’re not just talking SoulCycle. Thanks to HigherDose, you can now experience the benefits of infrared sauna from the comfort of your own home. The brand—known for its NYC studios and infrared sauna blankets—is now offering fullspectrum saunas for home delivery. Available in two- and three-person models, each comes equipped with state-of-the-art chromotherapy and Bluetooth connections to play your favorite tunes during a session. An upgraded entertainment option even features a cool-down iPad holder and speakers. The saunas are quite literally the hottest on the market, reaching temps of 175 degrees: perfect for releasing toxins and boosting vitality and longevity. higherdose.com – CASEY BRENNAN
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WORK Space
For creators, by creators.
CHECKING In
Cheval Blanc Paris offers an experience that is expansive and masterfully crafted. Francophiles, welcome home. LVMH Group’s Cheval Blanc Maisons were “born from the desire to redefine the notion of hospitality experiences in rare and exceptional destinations,” with a focus on “exclusive privacy, craftsmanship, creativity,” and the intangible je ne sais quoi: the “Art de Recevoir.” Properties in St.-Tropez, St.-Barth’s, the Maldives, and Courchevel have enchanted guests for years, and now devotees are celebrating the grand opening of the newest property in perhaps the most rare and exceptional destinations of them all: Paris. Located right in the heart of the City of Light, the Cheval Blanc Hotel Paris has opened its doors at last. With a view of the Seine River flowing as a backdrop, the magic of Paris entices all who stay in the space, filled as it is with the aesthetic traces of the Art Deco movement in all their opulence and intricacies. Designed by Henri Sauvage in 1928, the building conjures that liminal space where the past and present meet, inspiring lasting memories that will survive a lifetime. Under the direction of
designer Peter Marino, the 72 rooms and living spaces of the hotel are suffused with a unique identity that is the epitome of French artisanship—designed to delight and to last. Every touch is thoughtful and impactful: from the Hotel’s ten diverse types of marble, to the pure light creating varieties of moods, to panoramic views of the Parisian landscape, and the swimming pool with tasteful wave mosaics. In all, it is an environment that creates a sense of home (albeit a very luxurious one) while on vacation. With a team that strives for excellence—including artists and collaborators such as Peter Marino and Arnaud Donckele—Cheval Blanc presents you with a Paris that is curated to your taste, and a Paris that will exceed your expectations. A wide range of gastronomic cuisines on offer gives foodies a reason to spend the night in, while a carousel made specifically for children is a sweet nod to younger guests. Whatever your vacation desires may be, Cheval Blanc Paris will sate them—and leave you craving more. chevalblanc.com – JOSH SOKOL
Leigh Lezark and Geordon Nicol of The Misshapes took over the nightlife scene more than a decade ago (yes, we feel old) with their epic downtown parties. Now, the iconic duo is looking to dominate the daytime hustle with their newest venture, Creator House. Born as a response to the creative drought of the post-COVID era and based on the ground floor of The Space at Flatiron by WeWork, Creator House serves as a space where like-minded creatives can come together through workshops, panel discussions, engaging networking events, rooftop happy hours, and immersive activations. Creator House isn’t just a workspace; it’s an experience that you keep coming back to for more. creatorhouse.org – JOSH SOKOL
TABLEWARE Upgraded
Crafted with the ethos of family and escape in mind, tableware brand Z.d.G by Zoë de Givenchy announces its new collection. High Summer Capri plate sets capture Old World techniques and the modern aesthetic of the Mediterranean, while the Osier Faux Wicker adds new textures, shapes, and charm to a classic medium. Celebrate authenticity and heritage with this stunning collection of rustic-yetcontemporary homeware. – JOSH SOKOL Z.d.G. by Zoë de Givenchy cutlery, $424, zdgofficial.com.
CELINE Skateboard
CELINE HOMME by Hedi Slimane longboard, $1,500, celine.com.
We’re loving Hedi Slimane showing a bit of his personal life in his collections. This summer, Slimane’s love for motorsports continued to serve as a theme in his work, and now he’s reviving skater boy culture in very Slimane fashion: This month the luxury French maison launched its first installment of its Fall/ Winter artist collaboration and to kick off the collaborations, Slimane enlisted Los Angeles-based artist Cambria Guevara (aka Mermaid Hex). The artist who is most known for her line of screen-printed shirts capsule includes a rad must-have longboard. The board comes in either black or yellow with “strange” written across, nodding at the artist’s offbeat, quirky aesthetic. – TY GASKINS GRAZIA USA
Join Napa Valley’s first Wine Club that gives back! With over $7 million donated to date, doing good has never tasted so great.
onehopewine.com/wine-club
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NYFW 2021
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BACK IN The New York Groove
After two consecutive seasons of virtual shows and presentations, fashion week has returned in all its New York glory. The return of NYFW marks a shift in an attempt to return to normalcy during COVID-19 and with fall right around the corner, these looks will carry you over into the fall season seamlessly. BY GABRIELLE PRESCOD
THIGH High
These boots are made for walking
Chelsea Paris, $830, chelseaparis.com.
Brother Vellies, $1,100, brothervellies.com.
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VALENTINO
Khaite, $1,780, khaite.com.
Proenza Schouler, $975, proenzaschouler.com.
Saint Laurent, $2,195, ysl.com. Jimmy Choo, $1,195, jimmychoo.com.
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VOLUME SIX
Leather & GRACE How to smell like a really cool person, without even trying.
Ormaie Marque Page, $270, ormaie.com.
The Row top, $890, therow.com; LaQuan Smith skirt, $895, saksfifthavenue.com; Femme LA sandals, $189, femme.la; Asprey bag, $5,950, asprey.com; Hirotaka earring, $475, hiro-taka.com.
Magda Butrym blazer, $5,325, magdabutrym.com; Joseph leggings, $1,275, net-a-porter.com; Larroudé boots, $450, larroude.com; Hermès bag, shop similar at hermes.co; Serendipitous Project earrings, $120, serendipitous-project.com.
BYREDO Young Rose, $270, byredo.com.
Ellis Brooklyn Super Amber, $105, ellisbrooklyn.com.
Nicole Shante top, $108, nicoleshante.com; The Attico pants, $570, matchesfashion.com; Gu-du bag, $750, nordstrom.com; Eera earrings, $1,682 each, thewebster.us; Manolo Blahnik, $745, manoloblahnik.com.
Isabel Marant sweater, $745, isabelmarant.com; Eckhaus Latta jeans, $320, brownsfashion.com; Spinelli Kilcollin ring, shop similar at nordstorm.com; CELINE boots, $1,950, celine.com; Apede Mod bag, $325, apedemod.com.
Coach Dreams Sunset, $82, ulta.com.
Fenty Eau de Parfum, $120, fentybeauty.com.
House of Sillage Whispers of Enchantment, $360, houseofsillage.com.
Bottega Veneta shirt, $5,280, mytheresa.com; Tom Ford skirt, shop similar at farfetch.com; Seven June earrings, $250, sevenjunejewelry.com; Church’s loafers, $850, church-footwear.com; Chanel bag, $7,500, available at select CHANEL boutiques nationwide.
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Altuzarra dress, $1,295, modaoperandi.com; Jacquemus blazer, $1,180, mytheresa.com; Missoma earrings, $149, missoma.com; Gianvito Rossi pumps, $658, gianvitorossi.com; Roop bag, shop similar at itsrooper.co.uk.
Givenchy 4G medium chain bag, $2,290, small padded bag, $2,350, givenchy.com.
The Givenchy 4G IS SENDING STYLE SIGNALS A standout for its pure leatherworking savoir-faire.
“If it’s not broke, don’t fix it” is a motto most of us live by, and it seems so does Givenchy’s creative director, Matthew M. Williams. The visionary, who took the helm of the French luxury maison in 2020 is reinstating one of its most iconic bags with a modern twist. The bag in question? The 4G, boasting the brand’s prominent logo front and center.
GUCCI
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The new Givenchy 4G bag features the brand’s heritage “G” motif (which has been present in collections since founder Hubert de Givenchy was at the helm) in the form of a bold reflective closure either in silver or gold. The links in the chain handle are also subtly G-shaped—talk about brand recognition. The classic silhouette comes in various new
PRADA
colorways, including chestnut, lilac, and ivory. The genderless bag is highly versatile, able to be worn as a clutch, shoulder bag, or crossbody to fit every occasion and every body. The 4G styles drop in phases starting September 17 and adding additional patterns to the range on October 15. givenchy.com – TY GASKINS
MIU MIU
NINA RICCI
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PREMIERE EDITION
MADE IN ITALY, AUTHENTICALLY AMERICAN ON SALE FROM SEPTEMBER 24 WWW.GRAZIAMAGAZINE.COM
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NYFW 2021
LOOKING FORWARD
By All Memes Necessary Author, comedian, and creator Quinta Brunson chronicles the digital era and delivers an ode to Black girlhood.
BY MIA UZZELL PHOTOGRAPHER THE RIKER BROTHERS
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uinta Brunson’s humor is etched into the pop culture zeitgeist of the digital age. Some first encountered her comedic genius in an episode of her 2014 Instagram series, The Girl Who Has Never Been on a Nice Date, said to be the first viral video on the platform. Other consumers of the World Wide Web have undoubtedly witnessed—and hilariously used—the comedian’s enduring presence as it has spiraled out into ubiquitous memes of cultural commentary. While her virality has transcended its formative space, in her debut memoir, She Memes Well, the maestro of digital content is formally documenting her unconventional experience with wit, relatability, and solemnity. The memoir—a collection of personal essays—delves into the humanity and dimensionality behind Brunson’s internet-famous stature. “I wanted to contribute to documenting what it’s like to be a creator in the digital age,” Brunson tells Grazia Gazette. “I wanted to actually try to document what it looked like to be in this pseudo-journalism-acting-comedic-creator world during a social media boom, specifically.” For those of us who’ve watched her flourish
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Staud dress, $165, staud.clothing.
from the inception of her “He Got Money” earworm catchphrase, it’s also an intimate exploration of her culturally rich upbringing in West Philadelphia, the unwieldy trade-offs of fame, and even the transformative cultural moments of her younger years. Brunson is the youngest of five children; hence, her name, which means “fifth” in Spanish. Born to religiously devout parents who were influenced by the revolutionary radicality of the ’70s, she credits this politically active, spiritually influenced upbringing for her grounded approach that is all too rare in an industry that often prioritizes reception over intention. “I think my parents being faithful people grounded me in always trying to keep a spiritual connection to my work and making sure I feel good about my work,” she says. “That sounds altruistic, but that means in whatever I’m doing, I feel OK.” From the improv stage to Instagram, producing at Buzzfeed to starring in A Black Lady Sketch Show, and now creating the forthcoming ABC comedy Abbott Elementary, Brunson’s rise has been meteoric. Yet behind a bevy of gilded accolades, the identity crises of modern life still rankle.
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LOOKING FORWARD
‘I THINK MY PARENTS BEING FAITHFUL PEOPLE GROUNDED ME IN ALWAYS TRYING TO KEEP A SPIRITUAL CONNECTION TO MY WORK AND MAKING SURE I FEEL GOOD ABOUT MY WORK.’
Discussing materialism, advertising, and consumerism—concepts that Brunson collectively coins MAC (“not to be confused with the makeup brand”)—she admits that these cultural influences seriously impacted her self-perception over the years. She candidly writes, “The truth was, the more pop culture I ate up, the more I wasted away as a person.” Social media only intensifies this rapacious nature of consumption. Oversharing, the pressure of aesthetically manufactured internet identities, and subscribing to unrealistic beauty standards—all are insidiously ingrained into consumers, and Brunson was no exception. Finding the delicate, and often obscured, middle ground meant retreating to the sanctity of privacy. “It often took a lot of pulling back. I would limit how much I wanted to be in the public eye because I wanted and still want the freedom to grow up in private,” she says. She earnestly admits, “When you give a bunch, people expect a bunch.” Now, She Memes Well not only cements Brunson’s identity in her own words, but also presents an offering unto the canon of Black girlhood. Growing up, Spike Lee’s 1994 film Crooklyn and neo-soulstress Lauryn Hill’s album The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill were Brunson’s portals to encounters with the indescribable essence of girls who looked like her. Those wondrous moments of representation are something she hopes to personally contribute to the literary space. “Very often, we talk about Black girlhood and how Black girlhood is often skipped over—especially like regular Black girlhood,” she says, as opposed to the stories hinging on trauma. At the core of the transparency that weaves throughout Brunson’s anecdotes is her yearning for representations of Black girls navigating the mundane activities of life. When deciding which recollections she would include, Brunson imagined which stories would have helped her younger self engage with positive stories that weren’t fraught with turmoil: stories of romance, friendship, and daily life. “I felt like I wanted those relationships out there so that younger girls can have something,” she says of the dating experiences she described in the book. “My relationships weren’t traumatic. They were sad at times and they ended clearly, but they weren’t traumatic. I wish that I read stuff like that when I was younger.” Returning to her adolescence also meant confronting the fear that comes with bearing one’s truth and providing herself the space of grace for who she once was. In one of her essays, she recounts the influences that fed her insatiable appetite for pop culture. For example, among her personal canon she names Tina Fey’s Bossypants for inspiring her venture into comedy and reminisces on how the visuals for “D.I.D.D.Y,” the hip-hop mogul Sean Combs’ self-titled track featuring Pharrell, encapsulated an endearing persona that she admired. With Fey and Combs both now reckoning with the tides of cultural re-evaluation, Brunson says transposing that reality onto paper was one of the hardest parts of composing her memoir. “All of that feels scary to talk about because I never wanted it to look like I was praising these people, but I did want to be honest about my influences,” she says. Brunson adds, “Sometimes when we look back on our old selves, we create this reality of who we think we were or who we wished we were and I didn’t want to do that. I wanted to be honest.” With her book now out in the world, Brunson must also encounter the terrifying reality of having others consume her work. While the New York Times best sellers list is the de facto measure of success in the literary realm, Brunson asserts that she measures herself a little bit differently. “For me, what has proven to be the marker of success is Black girls saying, ‘I feel seen. I feel heard. I feel like I just talked to a friend. I feel like I have a road map.’” She adds, “My hope is that they pass it along to someone else.”
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BEHIND THE RUNWAY
Get to know the new generation of stylists that emerging designers are enlisting for NYFW.
BY TY GASKINS
W
hile the industry’s boldfaced names— Michael Kors, Carolina Herrera, Tom Ford, Oscar de la Renta, et al—still feature prominently at New York Fashion Week, a new generation of talented designers have recently been grabbing a larger share of the spotlight. And with these emerging fashion visionaries comes a new generation of stylists. The “stylist” title on show notes comes with more than just the responsibility for putting together the looks on the runway. The designer-stylist relationship is a crucial part of the creative process—and can even determine the fate of a collection. When a good match is made, it can be long-lasting. Take Katie Grand for example—The Perfect Magazine creator works alongside designers from Marc Jacobs to Miuccia Prada to Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing and has been by Marc’s side for more than 12 years since his early days designing Louis Vuitton. While big name designers may have big teams and big budgets to match, emerging talents often rely on their friends to act as both stylist and sounding board. Being a runway stylist means being two steps ahead of the process to solve any last-minute challenges, understanding the designer’s vision, and, perhaps most importantly, being a confidant. “Edvin and I have been best friends since high school,” says stylist Sakinah Bashir on styling this season’s Theophilio collection with designer Edvin Thompson. “When it comes to my creative confidence, it’s at an all-time high working with him, because we both know each other inside and out.” The relationship between New Zealand-born, NYC-based stylist Thistle Brown and designer Maryam Nassir Zadeh is not as longstanding, but the trust between them runs deep. For MNZ’s menswear debut last fall, Brown worked alongside the designer as a creative partner to bring the extension into menswear to life. Brown adds his aesthetic not only by styling the collections of the eponymous label; but also, in collaborating on the design process, too. As we finally return to in-person shows and models march the runway once again, let’s celebrate the designers and the trusted stylists working behind to bring their vision to life. Ahead, meet the new generation of stylists you can find leading the charge backstage at your favorite new designers’ shows.
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SAKINAH BASHIR
SHOW STYLED: PYER MOSS COUTURE 1, 2021
LOOKING FORWARD
RON HARTLEBEN
SHOWS STYLED: CHRISTIAN COWAN FW20, SS22; LAQUAN SMITH FW19, SS19, SS20
BRITTANY BRYANT SHOW STYLED: LIONNE FW21
Why did you become a stylist? “My journey began with me being an assistant to stylist Eric McNeal since roughly 2017/2018. Assisting, making mistakes, learning from those mistakes, and continued overall growth on my work ethic have been the formula that has gotten me to this point,” Bashir reveals. “Pyer Moss Couture 1 was the first fashion show that I have styled as a lead. I’m extremely excited for what the future holds. It will only get bigger and better—in all aspects of life.”
SHOWS STYLED: RUI ZHOU SS20, FW20
New York-based Rachael Wang is a Chinese American stylist and consultant who is passionate about helping brands to develop cultural relevance and edge while maintaining the distinctive integrity of their identity. Her fashion direction can be seen in collaborations with clients such as Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Farfetch, Levi’s, Maybelline, Nike, Olay, and Saks, and in her inspired editorials for Document Journal, Telegraph, Office, and international editions of Numéro and Vogue. Rachael was an early champion of responsible fashion and focused on bringing ethics and thoughtful representation to her creative and fashion direction.
A first-generation Mexican American who was born and raised in Los Angeles, Hartleben moved to New York City nearly nine years ago to study at Parsons and to get his foot in the door of the fashion industry after obsessing over Steven Meisel editorials and Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy era. After interning for a variety of stylists and fashion publications, Hartleben worked with CR Fashion Book founder and Editor in Chief Carine Roitfeld for nearly six years. During his stint with Roitfeld, he gained invaluable experience with the leading industry editor, who introduced him to a whole new world and helped him hone in on his aesthetic. Now working on his own, Hartleben focuses on maintaining a level of glamour and fantasy in his work that makes him stand out in today’s world.
Growing up on the south side of Atlanta—“the real South Side, Old National and Godby Road real ATL-iens know,” Bashir quips to Grazia Gazette—she always took a liking to clothing and outfits. However, music inspired her love of fashion more than fashion itself. Growing up watching BET’s 106 & Park and other shows on MTV helped shape her creatively. She was fascinated by the outfits donned by singers and rappers in music videos and wondered how they came to be. “Hip-hop taught me everything about fashion,” she says. “That was my foundation.” Bashir had a clear vision of moving to New York after high school; at the age of 20, she did just that. In New York, she worked at Opening Ceremony (RIP), where she met stylists such as Jason Rembert and Matthew Henson and started her journey into styling by assisting these greats. Bashir has now moved on to styling shows on her own, including the historic Pyer Moss Couture 1 collection that debuted earlier this year.
RACHAEL WANG
THISTLE BROWN
SHOWS STYLED: MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH SHOW SS22; GAUNTLETT CHENG SS19, FW20, SS20
Gauntlett Cheng Spring/Summer 2019
Why did you become a stylist? Wang tells Grazia Gazette that the path to becoming a stylist had a clear intention: “I became a stylist to amend the imagery that I never felt like I was able to participate in growing up.”
Why did you become a stylist? “I love making people feel beautiful,” Hartleben admits to Grazia Gazette. “There is no better rush than watching a person see themselves in a new light and be inspired to carry themselves in a way that unlocks their full potential.”
Rui Zhou Fall/Winter 2020
Gauntlett Cheng Spring/Summer 2019
Christian Cowan Fall/Winter 2020 Gauntlett Cheng Spring/Summer 2020
After moving from Baltimore to New York in 2012 to attend college at Pace University, Bryant interned for various publications and assisted lead stylists to help jump-start her styling career. Bryant styled the muchbuzzed-about debut Lionne show last August—and at 28, she’s just getting started.
LaQuan Smith Spring/ Summer 2020
LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2020
Why did you become a stylist? “Becoming a stylist was very organic for me,” Bryant tells Grazia Gazette. “It’s a lane where I can be more of myself, more expressive, and bring a lot of who I am when collaborating with the clients. This is beneficial throughout the creative process because I consistently get to push myself and grow creatively with every wardrobe decision, whether I’m pulling clothes, on-set, assisting, or styling a fashion show. I’ve also learned from Matthew Henson, one of the best stylists, in my opinion. It’s been so rewarding so far.”
A talented stylist and photographer, Thistle Brown works with a multidisciplinary practice with a foundation in textile design. His approach to image-making balances raw sensibility with editorially inspired composition, and his themes explore aspects of identity, youth culture, and performance while simultaneously orchestrating a seamless connection between allure and ease. Brown also contributes to publications such as Interview, Dazed & Confused, The Face, Purple, Marfa Journal, and The British Financial Times and has worked with brands including Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, Nike, and Calvin Klein along the way. Why did you become a stylist? “It was all by accident in a way. I moved over here from New Zealand and I didn’t really know that styling could be a career, as the industry is much smaller back home,” Brown tells Grazia Gazette. “I had a meeting with MNZ the first few months I arrived in NYC, and Maryam asked me to style for her store, and it unfolded from there.”
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STRONG SUIT CFDA’s Steven Kolb on DVF, Tom Ford, and charting his path as a CEO with heart. BY KEVIN SESSUMS
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K. Let’s get something straight, Google search results. Steven Kolb—the CEO of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America)—was not born in Belgium as you keep insisting he was. Diane von Furstenberg, who was the board chair of CFDA before handing over the reins to Tom Ford a couple of years ago, was born there. Steven and DVF worked closely for many years, but Kolb was born in New Jersey and grew up in Bergen County. So one more time: Bergen, not Belgium. Kolb laughs when talking about the vagaries of Google and his own lack of tech savvy to figure out how to correct it but the laughter softens when I question him about his growing up over in Jersey. He becomes contemplative, which is one of the characteristics that have stood him in such good stead for 15 years in his job at CFDA, an organization that represents 477 designers and brands. It’s not only a trade organization, but also a philanthropic one that focuses on—among other things— health initiatives, disaster relief, and social causes. Commerce and kindness could be its watchwords. There’s a sharp balance there that inherently must be manifested in the sharp and balanced person who runs it. I ask Kolb if he were the type of, well, contemplative little Jersey boy who dreamt about running a nonprofit when he grew up. “No,” he says, a soft chuckle now playing chase with his memory of himself as a child. “I think for me growing up as a boy in New Jersey, the interesting thing is that we were close to New York City but as a family didn’t spend a lot of time coming into New York. My parents didn’t have a comfort level with it. The only time I really remember going in was for my sister’s birthday and we went to Chinatown for Chinese food and then to see the Harlem Globetrotters at Madison Square Garden. I just remember my mom and dad on the subway from one to the other being very uptight.” “It wasn’t until college when I majored in communications that I started to spend time in the city,” he explains. “But what I knew is that I didn’t want to work in corporate America because that to me was a scary kind of Big Brother thing. And being a gay man, I didn’t feel an affinity for what I imagined the corporate C-suite guy is.” Instead, Kolb volunteered at a crisis intervention hotline and learned about “active listening,” he tells me. He also spent time as a volunteer for VISTA, the AmeriCorps program. His first job out of college was with the American Cancer Society back in Jersey, which was followed by a move to New York and a stint as a director of DIFFA (Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS). He then was recruited for the CFDA job after just one year as the founding executive director of MTV’s Staying Alive Foundation, where he established an international grant-making program for HIV/ AIDS prevention and education for youth.
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All of these jobs seem to be suffused with a call to serve. Is that, in fact, what inspires him? “One hundred percent,” he says. “Also, I think I’m incredibly shy in a lot of situations, so when you’re in a caring or nurturing situation or being of service then there is intention in why you’re in the relationship. You’re bringing something to that relationship other than just who you are as a person.” Kolb insists that he didn’t know a lot about fashion when he was hired to run CFDA—although he did wear rag & bone to his wedding back in 2012 to his husband, Jay Inkpen, who wore J.Crew. “It wasn’t why I got hired,” he says. “I got hired because I had not-for-profit management and fund-raising experience. I had to learn all the fashion stuff. And I found out that the people that I met were the most generous in terms of patience and knowledge.” “I knew Ralphdonnacalvin,” he says, mentioning Lauren and Karan and Klein as if they had one branded first name. I asked him if Diane Von Furstenberg mentored him in that regard. “I don’t know if I’d say that Diane was a mentor. She was more of a friend in a way,” he muses. “But she really helped me because she was my first board chair. She really was instrumental in me figuring it out. And just being there. And that translated not just professionally, but personally. You know her. You know how she is. She was the board chair for 13 years. She’d always say, ‘Oh, just one more year,’ with the flip of the hair and the whole thing. She’s incredible.” As the years passed, he and DVF grew the organization globally and put it on
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‘I GOT HIRED BECAUSE I HAD NOT-FOR-PROFIT MANAGEMENT AND FUND-RAISING EXPERIENCE. I HAD TO LEARN ALL THE FASHION STUFF.’ a sounder financial footing. “We took on lobbying in Washington for copyright protection to buying the Fashion Calendar from Ruth Finley and taking over the scheduling of New York Fashion Week ,” Kolb continued. “Diane is very instinctive. She just knows right away. She’s very forthcoming. I think that really benefited the growth of the organization. Then she had the DVF Awards and other things, so it got to the point where it was time for her to step down. And also change is good, organizational change is good. That’s when Tom came on.” Ford joined Kolb at the helm in March 2019 and just renewed for his third year. “I don’t think he’ll go for 13, though,” he says. When I emailed DVF to ask her about Kolb, it took her less than a minute to respond. “Steven and I had the most wonderful ride at CFDA for 13 years!” she immediately wrote back. “I turned it into a family and he made it a business. Steven is smart, honest, and unusually humble in a world of egos. I love him, respect him, and admire him.” So, what’s the difference between DVF and Tom Ford as board chairs? Kolb chuckles again, but this time it seems he’s chasing some carefully chosen words before he decides to just, yes, cut to the chase itself. “Diane sleeps with her iPad,” he says. “She is intuitive. She’s an immediate ‘Yes!’ There is just this energy and rapport. Tom’s more measured. He’s thoughtful. He takes his time. He sort of comes from a more deliberate process where her process and success
comes from that immediacy of hers. That’s the big difference between the two of them.” Still, there are some similarities. “They’re both incredibly hands-on. There’s a high level of trust that she had with me and he has with me, but at the end of the day they are creatives, so they want to know what the invitation color is and what the stock of the paper is,” Kolb says. “We don’t do anything creative unless Tom signs off on it. It was the same with Diane. I guess the biggest difference finally—it’s kind of funny—is that she’s all about color, so she’d always be, ‘Color! Color! Color!’ And he’s all about black and white—with maybe just a little room for color. But they both take it very seriously.” For Ford, though, there have been new and unexpected challenges that even the canniest business consultant didn’t see coming. “You have to remember that Tom took the job right before the pandemic, so he had no idea what we were going to be facing. So not only did he have to manage his own business, but also help manage CFDA as we were managing bigger issues for the industry and support for our members,” says Kolb. “And he did a great job on that.” For a guy who only knew “Ralphdonnacalvin,” it’s been quite a journey to “Dianetomsteven.” That little boy from Jersey might have only been to Manhattan once, but for the man he became it was the place where he finally arrived and is with that well-honed sense of service now helping others—emerging designers, the underrepresented—do the same.
GRAZIA USA
The ultimate shop-a-thon is taking over Downtown.
September 10 12 – 8pm Washington Street at W 14th Street Join the mega street party at Afterpay Quarter, and hitch free pedicab rides to all the NYFW: ShopsNY action.
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NYFW 2021
GAZETTE
SHOWING THEIR COLORS FASHION SUPERSTARS HAVE UNITED LIKE NEVER BEFORE IN SUPPORT OF NYFW.
Jason Wu Collection dress, $1,695, jasonwustudio.com; Shoes, her own.
BY TAYLOR HARRIS PHOTOGRAPHER MENELIK PURYEAR
I
t’s the decree of the IMG Alliance, an initiative banding together 11 American designers in a collective pledge to show at New York Fashion Week for the next three seasons. “We’re rebuilding the bedrock of New York Fashion Week,” Noah Kozlowski, director of designer relations for IMG, tells Grazia Gazette: NYFW. “In partnering with these designers through 2022, we’re safely demonstrating the resilience and artistry of American fashion on a global stage.” In exchange for their commitment, each of the participating
designers will receive funding from IMG to help finance their shows. “The designers who are showing here are, for the most part, independent and don’t have the scale and level of support that some of their counterparts in Europe have,” Kozlowski continued. “So, this initiative came about very organically, out of countless conversations we’ve been having with designers over the past several months.” Pre-pandemic, there were countless conversations of a different nature: regarding the relevance and ROI of the shows,
the breakneck pace of the fashion calendar, the implications— environmental and otherwise—of a six-collections-per-year output, the sheer volume of stuff created in the name of newness. Then, the pandemic hit and an industry often pushed into hyperspeed was stopped dead in its tracks. Eighteen months later, we’re picking up speed but how it resumes in earnest remains to be seen. For insight, we spoke with those who have their eyes on the horizon: six designers taking part in fashion’s great Reconstruction.
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VOLUME SIX
From left: Sasha Pivovarova with Jason Wu; Jason Wu Collection dress, $5,295, available at Saks Fifth Avenue.
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JASON
A NEW HOME AND A NEW PACE PROVIDES NEW INSPIRATION, WHILE FOREVER MUSE SASHA PIVOVAROVA CONTINUES TO SHINE BRIGHT.
WU HAIR TSUKI MAKEUP KARAN FRANJOLA
Grazia Gazette: How is the collection coming along? JASON: It’s starting to shape up. I mean, all the action really happens in the last two weeks. We started the collection in May, and until recently it was so much about fabric research, working with print artists, working with different mills.... And because we haven’t been able to go to Italy, we didn’t even really travel this year, so we have a lot of extra time. GG: Were there other things you couldn’t do in terms of producing the collection? What is it like developing one during a pandemic? JASON: In the past year, I’ve had to go back to my roots. I had to be much more hands-on. It was really nice, actually. It reminded me of when I started in fashion in 2007. It was like, just me. I’m lucky now to have a team around me now, but I think this past year has really taught us to do more with less. And for me, it was very therapeutic. I really enjoyed getting scrappy again and just getting my hands dirty. In some ways, I would say 2020 and 2021, I felt like I was in startup mode again. GG: You showed last September and again in February. Why did you feel it was important to have live, in-person shows? JASON: We all felt like it was very important for New York Fashion Week to continue to exist. And even though there were very few people showing the last two seasons, it was really important for us to keep the excitement of American fashion alive. GG: How did you stimulate yourself creatively when we were in lockdown? JASON: I started finding inspiration in other things. I started
cooking a lot. I actually cooked every single day for a period of time. And I’ve always loved it, but I almost never have three or four hours at night to make something. But it was definitely a creative outlet. And I would just do Houseparty every night when I was cooking. I remember Ivan Bart from IMG was calling me on it and then I invited Carolyn Murphy to join and I just leave the phone on and cook. It was like a 2020 dinner party. GG: The idea of being more intentional and slowing down also translates to how clothes are produced—certainly the cadence of the fashion cycle and the sheer volume of stuff is something we’re all rethinking. Do you think the breakneck pace of fashion is a thing of the past? JASON: I’ve never really been a designer who made trenddriven clothes, clothes of the season. My ethos has always been about timelessness and having something that could stand the test of time. And to me, sometimes fashion goes too quickly, especially now when there’s a new trend almost every day. It’s not like the way it was, where there’s like one trend a season. Now it’s a much more noisy world today through social media. And I think being able to do things on your own terms and at your own speed and having integrity is more important than ever before. GG: We shot you in your new home—I can’t believe you moved during COVID-19!—with Sasha Pivovarova. What about her do you find so inspiring? JASON: She’s as beautiful today as the day she started and, more importantly, she’s genuinely a great person. There’s just something about her; she makes clothes come alive.
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JOSEPH
THE BELOVED LINE COMES BACK TO NEW YORK FOR NYFW AFTER A SOJOURN IN PARIS — BUT IT’S HARDLY BACK TO BUSINESS AS USUAL.
ALTUZARRA
HAIR TSUKI MAKEUP WALTER OBAL
Grazia Gazette: So how are you doing? I know we’re approaching crunch time…. JOSEPH: I’m good, excited. It’s odd because we’ve all been in the cyclical rat race that is Fashion Week after Fashion Week since I started working in the industry 15 years ago, and I’d never taken a season off. So it’s odd that we haven’t really shown the last couple of seasons, and to be coming back to it just feels really electrifying and exciting. With September, there’s always this back-to-school feeling like you get to see your friends again, but now it’s supercharged because we haven’t seen each other for so long. I can’t wait to see my casting director and to see editors and to see models and catch up with everyone. I’m excited to be with people again.
have to deliver by a certain date and then you’re reviewed on it and you gauge the financial success of it and then start it all over again. I think because we’d never had a break, we never really took the time to look back or take a moment to pause and think about the trajectory and where we want to go. So taking this time to think about our goals has really affected the design process—what I design and how I design and how I think about the collection. It’s definitely had an impact. GG: Are you ready for a return to glamour? JOSEPH: Totally. We have less contact with people now, so when we do, we really want to make an impression. You really want to make those sartorial decisions or sartorial moments count and be really purposeful.
GG: Has the break lent itself to how you re-approach the showproducing process? JOSEPH: I wanted to approach it as a break from how we used to do things and think very intentionally and purposefully about the production and the experience and the emotion we were trying to convey. So a lot of the production elements are much more thoughtful—even for music, where we’re working with an original composer as opposed to kind of using existing music, and the invitation, we worked with an artist to create something meaningful.
GG: You showed in Paris last season, and you’re coming back to New York. Why? JOSEPH: I decided pretty early on during our time in the pandemic that I wanted to come back to New York. Altuzarra jacket, $2,195, Partially, it was a personal decision. pants, $1,195, altuzarra.com. It’s where I live. It’s where my team is. I’m very attached to New York. Especially during this time, everyone was so down on New York that I just felt like, “No, actually New York is going to buck up and I want to be a small part of the reinvention of New York and New York Fashion Week.”
GG: Has that slower, more intentional approach translated to your design process? JOSEPH: Definitely. I think the hard thing about being a designer is that you need to be creative, but on a very strict timeline. There’s not a lot of professions with those parameters, where you have to be incredibly creative in very little time, and
GG: What do you make of New York now? JOSEPH: When I first moved to New York, I think what was so magical about it was this raw, kind of unfiltered, unapologetic energy that permeated the city. That’s something that I really felt again over the summer, this kind of banding together and this feeling that there are no rules.
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From left: Dasha Denisenko wears Altuzarra jacket, $2,495, pants, $1,595, sandals, $695, altuzarra.com; Joseph Altuzarra.
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SERGIO
AFTER DRESSING JLO, RIHANNA, KAMALA, AND MICHELLE (YES, OBAMA), THE L.A.-BASED DESIGNER IS FINALLY WRITING HIS OWN STORY, WITH MUSE AURORA JAMES BY HIS SIDE.
HUDSON HAIR MICHAEL DAVID WARREN MAKEUP TAMI EL SOMBATI
Grazia Gazette: How are you? SERGIO: Tired! GG: I appreciate your honesty. SERGIO: You know what? I told my boyfriend last night, I said, “I’ve been complaining mentally because I don’t allow myself to complain out of my mouth.” But then I sat back and thought, “You know what? You need to stop complaining because two years ago you would’ve been dying to have the problems that you have now.” Because on top of the show, we have the Met Gala. So I’m grateful—grateful and tired! GG: How has the pandemic shifted your perspective in terms of how you see your business? SERGIO: I think the pandemic offered to fashion an opportunity for us to write our own story and to allow our business to run how we want our business to run—how you deliver, how you produce your collections, when you produce your collections. I think that’s opened the door for people to be more allowed to do that.
From left: Sergio Hudson with Aurora James wearing Sergio Hudson dress, $895, Sergio Hudson x Brother Vellies boots, $1,200, sergiohudson.com.
GG: There’s a push-pull because in some ways fashion is a very traditional business, but it’s filled with forwardthinkers. SERGIO: Right, and it’s never a perfect science. We talked during COVID and said, “Oh, we’re not going to push for six collections a year anymore.” Now we’re right back at pushing for six collections again. But at least we feel we’re more empowered now to write our own stories going forward. GG: Did you find it difficult to get inspired during the pandemic?
SERGIO: No, I think for me it didn’t stifle my creativity. It actually evoked it. I feel like when you’re a creative person, solitude invokes creativity. At least for me it does. And the crazy things I that I had on inspiration for the collection that kind of shifted after we did Michelle Obama [attending the 2021 inauguration]. We had a great response, so it was like, OK, this is what people want from me. So I had to kind of infuse a lot more dressy pieces into the collection than I originally had. GG: Is that what you’re feeling like? That women want to get dressed up again? SERGIO: I feel like women are tired of wearing pajamas. Even if they’re going to sit at home, they’re going to get dressed because they’re tired of looking sloppy. And I think women are craving some type of experience. I have friends who dress up exceptionally well to go to a basic dinner. GG: So let’s talk about NYFW. Why did you think showing in person was important to do right now? What about that experience can’t translate to Instagram or livestream? SERGIO: I think the live show experience is so different because... it’s like the difference between going to church and watching church on TV. You can’t feel the experience as well as you do when you’re there and you’re feeling the energy and the excitement. And I mean, I remember coming up in design school in the early 2000s; it was like the golden age of fashion. There was so much money in fashion and the shows were over the top. You could tell when you watched them. Every model at every show was like a supermodel. It was an era of decadence and that was when I was studying in school. So when I watched shows, it inspired me like, “God, I can’t wait to do a show like that one day.”
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LAURA KIM
RUNNING THEIR OWN UPSTART LINE & THE ICONIC OSCAR DE LA RENTA, MONSE’S DYNAMIC DUO ARE TASTING THE FRUITS OF SUCCESS.
FERNANDO GARCIA Grazia Gazette: How did the pandemic hinder or help your inspiration? Did you find it difficult to feel creative? FERNANDO: One silver lining for us was the ability to breathe after a very travel-crazed and hectic five years doing both brands. LAURA: It was some very much-needed time. It allowed me to actually fall in love with what I do again, to fall in love with fashion like I did when I was 16. I also really loved having some time to myself. I’ve been working nonstop for the last 20 years! FERNANDO: Same. Luckily, I invested in this Robert Stilin couch right before the pandemic hit. It is truly my favorite thing in the world. I have been basically living on it, entertaining my close friends and working from home. GG: You were among the few designers who showed your Fall collection in person. Why do you think live, in-person shows are so important? LAURA: It’s the experience, the music, the environment created by the guests, the movement of the clothes…. FERNANDO: The moment feels more real. Retouching and perfect lighting can sometimes take you away from reality. With a show, the music, the sound of the fabric moving… you belong to that moment and you form a stronger connection with the clothes. GG: From what you’ve noticed on the street, are people dressing differently than they did pre-pandemic? Are you? LAURA: Speaking for myself, I am dying to dress up. FERNANDO: Laura has never been more excited to wear clothes than in the past six months. LAURA: It’s true! FERNANDO: I think there’s a real need to feel and look good after the year we’ve all experienced. LAURA: I will say, I do go to the gym in bike shorts and a sports bra. And I will throw on a jacket and go to the office after. I would have never done that pre-pandemic. GG: Early on in lockdown, when we all really couldn’t
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leave our homes, most of us reached for sweatpants and slippers. What was the piece of clothing or footwear you found yourself wearing again and again? LAURA: APL sneakers. FERNANDO: James Perse T-shirts. GG: The past 18 months have allowed us all to pause in some form, and reassess. How has the pandemic shifted your perspective in terms of your work? LAURA: We’re more careful about what we spend, since the future is so uncertain. We’re also really paying attention to the change in our client needs. FERNANDO: Designing the same thing we used to two years ago feels like ten years ago now. Adapting to what people are connecting to today is very important. It’s constantly changing, and we need to keep up. As Oscar [de la Renta] would say, “You rest, you rust!” GG: Certainly, cadence and output are something everyone in the industry has rethought during this time. Is the breakneck pace of fashion—with six collections a year—a relic of the past? LAURA: We’ve reduced the size of the collection—and I think we’ll keep it that way—but having multiple collections is so important. The clients want fresh products often. What we really need to address going forward is the markdown system. GG: Complete this sentence: the future of American fashion is… FERNANDO: Evolving at a faster rate than ever before. LAURA: Anything anyone can dream of. This country stands for freedom of expression. GG: Do you have any exciting postshow plans? A holiday perhaps? LAURA: No, we’re all work, work, work until Christmas. FERNANDO: I guess that means I have to cancel my plans. No Disney World for me!
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From left: Fernando Garcia with Laura Kim wearing MONSE dress, $990, monse.com.
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From left: Alexandra O’Neill wears Markarian dress, $1,495, markarian.com; Shoes, her own; Ama Elsesser holds Markarian dress, $1,975, markarian.com; Shoes, her own.
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ALEXANDRA
THE MARKARIAN DESIGNER IS READY FOR A RETURN TO GLAMOUR — AND RISING STAR AMA ELSESSER IS HELPING HER CELEBRATE.
O’NEILL HAIR DHAIRIUS THOMAS MAKEUP CHRISTYNA KAY
Grazia Gazette: So how is everything going? ALEXANDRA: Very well, actually! We’ll have a completed collection hopefully by Friday, so we’re in a good place right now. We’re doing our lookbook shoot either this weekend or Monday, so we’re in the midst of planning that right now—a lot of craziness but all exciting things. This is our first runway show, so this is all especially exciting. GG: Why did right now feel like the right time to do your first show? ALEXANDRA: We partnered with IMG this season, and having their support behind us has been crucial. It also felt like a natural trajectory to take. It’s been a very exciting year. GG: Have you found it difficult to find inspiration or incite creativity in a pandemic? ALEXANDRA: Not really. I mean, I do draw a lot of inspiration from traveling and obviously that hasn’t happened but I’ve always been inspired by the arts, books.... My grandmother was living with me, actually, when I started designing this collection and we were watching a lot of old movies together, so I was able to draw from that. GG: What is it about the experience of going to a live, in-person show that doesn’t translate to Instagram or livestream? ALEXANDRA: I mean, purely from a buying perspective, there’s definitely challenges in terms of really seeing what the clothing looks like: seeing how things fit on the body, how the fabric moves, what the print looks like in real life, how much something really sparkles, the texture of all the fabrics…. And a show gives you a sense of the mood of the season, too, that I don’t think you can capture in a photograph or a Zoom call. GG: Much has been made of women wanting to get dressed up and a post-pandemic return to glamour. Is this something
that you’re finding resonates with your customers? ALEXANDRA: We are. We’re very much so an occasionwear company, so during the pandemic when there were no occasions happening, we weren’t seeing a desire for this beautiful event-wear. But I would say over the past couple of months, there’s been a huge shift and people have been coming to us more and more for those special dresses. Women are looking forward to dressing up again and that’s definitely been reflected in our business.
Ama Elsesser wears Markarian dress, shop similar at markarian.com; Belt, her own.
GG: Have you found that with yourself personally? Are you dressing up more? ALEXANDRA: I’ve always been like an all-or-nothing girl. I’m either in jeans and a T-shirt, or I’m going all out in sequins. When the pandemic first started, I made an effort to put real clothing on every day and then I got a little bit lazy. My favorite thing to wear were these cute little Doen nightgowns. I love a flowy nightgown. The more grandma, the better.
GG: We recently shot you with Ama Elsesser, Paloma Elsesser’s younger sister who got signed with IMG the day after our shoot. What about her do you find so inspiring? ALEXANDRA: I loved working with Ama on this. She’s gorgeous and brought such fresh energy to the shoot. GG: Complete the sentence: The future of American fashion is... ALEXANDRA: That’s hard but I really think it’s a slower and more intentional approach. We’re very much so a slow fashion brand, the opposite of fast fashion. We make beautifully crafted pieces that are meant to last and are made to order, and that works for us. But I really try to be thoughtful about what we’re putting out there and I think that this slower approach is really important to the future of fashion.
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LAQUAN
THE QUINTESSENTIALLY “NEW YORK” DESIGNER REACHES NEW HEIGHTS — LITERALLY — WITH A SHOW ON THE EMPIRE STATE BUILDING.
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HAIR MARK ALAN MAKEUP WALTER OBAL
Grazia Gazette: How is the collection coming along? LAQUAN: The collection is coming together beautifully. We are a week and a half out, so it’s all go in the office. It’s an extremely exciting time because we’re doing multiple fittings and style outs and it’s really the first time that I can stand back and look at the collection as a whole. The last week for me is always busy but filled with creativity. Some of my best ideas come at the eleventh hour.
GG: You haven’t shown on a runway in a few seasons. Why did now feel like the right time to do a show? LAQUAN: Once the pandemic hit, I knew I wanted SS22 to be the next live runway collection. I would consider myself somewhat of a perfectionist and I knew I wanted the show to have the same energy and impact that my shows in the past have had. The only way of ensuring that was to wait until I could have a live audience again and a full model cast.
GG: Like the idea to show at the Empire State Building? LAQUAN: As a native New Yorker, it’s always been a dream of mine to show at a historic New York landmark. The Empire State Building is so inspiring to me. When you enter the lobby, you are met with incredible Art Deco design, from the tiling on the floor to the elevator doors to the moldings. It heavily inspired the direction of this collection. It’s a celebration of New York and New York fashion.
GG: Why do you think live, in-person shows are so important? What is it about that experience that can’t translate to Instagram or livestream? LAQUAN: In-person shows are so important because a lot more goes into the collection than just the garments themselves. I like to think of the entire experience. From when you step foot in the space, I like to create a tone or mood. And I use so many different fabrics in my collections with textures and details, seeing them in a flat image is no comparison to seeing them live in person.
GG: Tell me about the mechanics of putting together a collection in a pandemic. LAQUAN: I’m very lucky that all of my manufacturing is based in New York, so when other brands couldn’t maintain production my team and I were still cranking out orders. The first few months of the pandemic were definitely a learning curve for us, with our team working from home and communicating over Zoom. It’s difficult. This is a very handson industry and I like to work very closely with my team, working side by side with them and ensuring every piece is made exactly how I would like it to be. That being said, the health and safety of my team has always been my top priority and luckily, we were able to make it work.
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GG: Early on in lockdown, when we all really couldn’t leave our homes, most of us reached for sweatpants and slippers. What was the comfort item you found yourself reaching for again and again? LAQUAN: I purchased so many pairs of designer slides it was getting out of hand. Slides through the pandemic were my go-to shoe between the design studio, the factory, the grocery store, and the bodega. I was living my entire life in slides. GG: What are you wearing right now? LAQUAN: A LaQuan Smith T-shirt, Prada shorts, and slides, of course.
From left: Symone Lu wearing LaQuan Smith corset top, $425, skirt, $895, revolve.com; Gianvitorossi pumps, shop similar at gianvitorossi.com; LaQuan Smith.
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NEARLY 75 YEARS IN, FASHION’S BIGGEST NIGHT HASN’T LOST ITS SPARKLE.
HAVEN’T WE MET?
BY TY GASKINS
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ithin the fashion world, the first Monday in May is more than just a date—it’s the date of the Met Gala, one of the biggest and most celebrated events of the season. (For some, it might even loom larger than birthdays and anniversaries!) So, among the many disruptions of the last 18 months, the industry has had to accept the fact that this year, the fabulous party (and even more fabulous red carpet) will take place on the rather inauspicious date of September 13. After a hectic New York Fashion Week, those lucky enough to snag an invite will have to muster up their last reserves of style inspiration and energy to bring it to the steps of the Met. CHER
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The date isn’t the only thing that’s different this year: The institute’s exhibition, “In America,” will debut in two parts spread over roughly eight months. This month, it all kicks off with “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion,” co-chaired by Timothée Chalamet, Billie Eilish, Amanda Gorman, and Naomi Osaka. Part Two, in May 2022, will then transition into “In America: An Anthology of Fashion.” (We’ll leave it to the stylists to parse the difference between “lexicon” and “anthology” through looks.) For the Costume Institute, the leadership said, it was essential to address the lexicon of fashion after witnessing the social justice movements of 2020. “Over the past year, largely because of the pandemic, the connections to what we wear have become more emotional,” Andrew Bolton, the Wendy Yu curator in charge of the Costume Institute said in a press release. “Part One of the exhibition will establish a modern vocabulary of American fashion based on the expressive qualities of clothing as well as its deeper associations with issues of equity, diversity, and inclusion.” As such, the lucky A-listers (and those further down the alphabet) will have a lot more to consider in selecting their looks than what photographs best or what will earn them raves across the internet. Every year’s theme is carefully selected to tell a story about a moment in time. In 2015, for example, the gala celebrated China’s influence on Western fashion, and Rihanna understood the assignment, delivering an unforgettable Guo Pei yellow gown. This year, guests will have to ask themselves (and their stylists) precisely what it means to be American and what bonds us together, especially after a year of forced isolation and tumult. Bolton plans to provide plenty of inspiration: Approximately 100 individual pieces pulled from archival American designers’ collections (both emerging and leading
names) will be arranged and displayed in the Anna Wintour Costume Center, representing the diversity, personalities, and qualities that collectively define American fashion. Bolton also curated the 2018 exhibition, Heavenly Bodies, which attracted more than 1.65 million visitors to the Met Fifth Avenue and the Met Cloisters, making it the Met’s most visited exhibition ever so far. He also happens to have curated the other exhibitions in the Met’s top-five most popular of all time: Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (2011); China: Through the Looking Glass (2015); Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology (2016); and Camp: Notes on Fashion (2019). In short, expect to be dazzled by the combination of a Met MVP and the rich inspiration-scape that American fashion history presents. “In looking at the past, we can consider the aesthetic and cultural impact of fashion on historical aspects of American life,” Max Hollein, the Marina Kellen French director of the Met, said in a statement. Indeed, there’s perhaps no better way to celebrate the festive return of our favorite event than with a look back at the moments that have made it an integral part of American fashion and culture at large, starting from its humble origins in 1948, when it was established as an elaborate dinner and tickets were sold for 50 dollars each by fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert. At the time, it was an effective way to raise money and drum up publicity for the newly founded Costume Institute. (The institute was created in 1946, when the Museum of Costume Art officially merged with the Metropolitan Museum of Art.) What began as yet another gala on the New York social calendar, however, quickly evolved into something special
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thanks to—yes—the fashion. Legendary fashion arbiter Diana Vreeland served as a special consultant at the Costume Institute from 1972 until her death in 1989 and created a memorable suite of exhibitions throughout that span, including “The World of Balenciaga” (1973), “The Glory of Russian Costume” (1976), and “Vanity Fair” (1977), galvanizing audiences and setting a high bar for costume exhibitions globally. With such lofty expectations, gala guests delivered. For example, in 1974, Bianca Jagger stunned in a red ruby gown, and Cher effectively earned the title “Queen of the Naked Dress” in an original Bob Mackie at that year’s “Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design” themed gala. Three years later, Lambert managed to convince style icon and former First Lady Jackie Kennedy to serve as her co-chair, adding another dash of glamour from 1977 to 1978. Supermodel Christy Turlington channeled Audrey Hepburn straight out of Breakfast at Tiffany’s in a minimal black gown with a stacked pearl choker at the 1992 gala, while royal style icon Princess Diana made her first Met Gala appearance in 1996 in a navy Dior slip dress paired with a sapphire necklace and earrings. Katy Perry looked heavenly in Versace angel wings in 2018 and then outdid herself with her campy crystal chandelier look the year after. Even Kim Kardashian brought Thierry Mugler out of retirement for a dripping bodycon latex dress in 2019. That same year, Wintour tapped musical artist Lady Gaga as the “Camp: Notes on Fashion” gala co-host, along with fashion-loving musician Harry Styles. Gaga took her role seriously, with a total of four outfit changes made right on the red carpet. (Can we say iconic?) The only one to come close to matching Gaga’s entertaining arrival was actor and activist Billy Porter. The Pose star made a strong
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argument for stealing the whole show after being carried in on a palanquin held by six shirtless men in gold pants, as he posed on top in a 24K crown and gold angel wings—peak camp, if we do say so ourselves. Another contender was Moschino Barbie Kacey Musgraves, who threw the entire internet into a frenzy when she was dropped off at the famed Met steps in a hot pink convertible. Also camp, to some? Wintour’s decision that year to open the door to social media influencers, including Camilla Coelho, Lilly Singh, and YouTube sensation Liza Koshy. The guest list is a hotly debated topic to this day, which begs the question: Who really decides who’s “in” and who’s “out” in any given year? No matter how some may feel about it, the role of cultural arbiter surely seems to have fallen to Wintour. Sometimes, it’s who the guests invite themselves that makes the headlines: It’s been memorable and heartwarming to see how celebrities have used the gala as a way to make their relationships official over the years. Most notably, Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik made their first appearance on the carpet at the 2016 gala, while Elon Musk and Grimes went public at the 2018 event. (Incidentally, both couples are still happily together, each having since welcomed little bundles of joy. Maybe it’s something in the Met Gala air?) But besides their arm candy, guests also can use showstopping accessories as a way to stand out, them from LADY GAGA
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What began as yet another gala on the New York social calendar, however, quickly evolved into something special thanks to—yes—the fashion.
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glorious headpieces (See: Diana Ross’ gigantic tulle headpiece from 2001) to trendy and statement-making bags. It feels like yesterday that Sarah Jessica Parker’s cascading red Philip Treacy headpiece from the 2015 “China: Through the Looking Glass” became the internet’s most viral meme, compared to both a Power Ranger and a character from Maleficent. Equally memorable was Zayn’s bionic arm for the “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” gala. The year before, Jaden Smith went slightly more organic, gripping his freshly cut dreads like a top-handle bag. Topping them all was Jared Leto, who took camp to the next level when he carried around a replica of his own head in 2019—a nod to the Gucci show of that year’s cohost, Alessandro Michele. The runway to red carpet inspo goes in the other direction too, as some of the accessories donned at the Met Gala have even served as inspiration for designers: For example, the metallic turban Marc Jacobs created for supermodel Kate Moss in 2009 appeared years later in his SS18 collections. Still, it’s not just the fashion that makes the Met matter— it’s the moments. (Even an anonymous man falling down the stairs can become iconic! Sorry, Jason Derulo.) One favorite tableau? Childhood actresses Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen made their first debut on the red carpet together in 2005 at the “House of Chanel” gala. The twin BEYONCÉ
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sisters—still in their New York Minute-era aesthetic— accessorized their vintage dresses with stacked necklaces, rings, and bracelets (very Y2K). Since then, their style has evolved to the now-minimalist aesthetic made famous by their brand, The Row. Of course, there’s no style evolution more meaningful to the Met than Anna Wintour’s. From 1995 to today— excluding the years 1996 and 1998, when the gala was chaired by Harper’s Bazaar EIC Liz Tilberis—the editor in chief of American Vogue and artistic director and global content adviser of Condé Nast has served as co-chair of the Met Gala. Wintour is credited with transforming the gala from its intimate dinner origins to elevating it to one of the industry’s most visible and successful charity events— one where individual tickets cost $35,000 and tables sell for up to $300,000. (If you can even snag an invite, that is.) Wintour’s exclusive and eclectic guest list has included names from the worlds of fashion, film, society, sports, business, and music; she was the first to extend an invite to supermodels in their own right, rather than just inviting them as plus-ones of legendary designers. In 1995, the strategy paid off when the supermodel trifecta of Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington turned out on the red carpet, creating a memorable scene in honor of their returns to the runway. Now that it’s time for the gala to make its own return,
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we can only speculate at the high-fashion drama in the making. Maybe Rihanna will hop back up on the table to perform “Bitch Better Have My Money” as she did in 2015? Can we hope for some dubious yet very chic bathroom selfies? If not, at the very least, let’s hope for another epic photobomb moment. (Yes, we’re talking about you, Jennifer Lawrence.) We’re most definitely waiting to see pregnant Kylie Jenner’s sure-to-be-glam baby bump. Maybe she’ll even pull some inspiration from sister Kim’s notorious 2013 Met maternity look. (Or maybe not, considering the floral Givenchy was unfavorable compared to a couch.) One thing’s for certain: With the official dress code of American independence, American designers will have a major moment on their home turf. Expect a special focus on the class of emerging, talented, diverse, and inclusive designers. We’re predicting a few stunning Christopher John Roger custom gowns will make a red carpet appearance after the successful year he’s had, and we’re hoping to see some strong tailoring and suiting from Peter Do. Pyer Moss founder and creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond, the first Black designer to present during the official Paris Haute Couture calendar, is another one to watch. And, of course, we’re expecting a Telfar bag appearance. (Queen Bey, are you going to take this one?) The countdown is on.
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FOR UP-TO-THE-SECOND 2021 MET GALA COVERAGE, VISIT GRAZIAMAGAZINE.COM.
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Sergio Hudson bodysuit, $425, available at Bergdorf Goodman, coat, $2,695, available at Neiman Marcus, pants, $995, belt, $245, sergiohudson.com.
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We’re still seeing very few Black-owned brands in the luxury sector. While I’m proud that Brother Vellies is among one of them, I just want to make sure there’s more!’
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AURORA RISING
The fashion powerhouse behind Brother Vellies and the 15 Percent Pledge is here to make a change. BY SHELTON BOYD-GRIFFITH PHOTOGRAPHY MENELIK PURYEAR HAIR BY MICHAEL DAVID MAKEUP CHRISTYNA KAY PROP STYLING BY SHANE KLEIN
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urora James needs no introduction. (But, here we go anyways.) In fact, perhaps it’s more accurate to say that capturing the enormity of her presence in a pithy intro is less superfluous than it is impossible. A true multi-hyphenate, James wears many hats: including, creative director, innovator, footwear designer, activist, community organizer, product designer, and more. Since launching ethical footwear brand Brother Vellies in 2013—a favorite of such stars as Beyoncé, Zendaya, Elaine Welteroth, and Andra Day—James has been disrupting the fashion industry season after season, bringing artisanal craftsmanship to the masses, and shattering the proverbial glass ceiling along the way. A CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner (James is now a judge for the revered fashion incubator program), a Fortune magazine’s World’s Greatest Leader, and the spark behind the ever-important 15 Percent Pledge, James is changing the game and leaving a massive (but sustainable) footprint. Grazia Gazette: NYFW caught up with James on a typically busy day, as the design aesthete was overseeing the installation of artisanal terracotta tiles outside her gorgeous Los Angeles home. (See, she really does it all!) We chatted about her commitment to community and the 15 Percent Pledge, her desire for every woman in America to have a pair of Brother Vellies in their closet—and the secret recipe for her famous banana bread. Banana bread? Yes, James expresses her creative potential in myriad ways. Still, at the core of her passion is an enduring focus on fashion. Her signature, organic, worldly aesthetic has been captivating the industry over the past eight years. With Brother Vellies, inspired by Aurora’s travels across Africa, James has carved out a niche that honors both traditional, artisanal shoemaking practices (from Nairobi to Milan) while blazing a trail at the forefront of sustainable design. “My earliest memories of fashion come from being a child and growing up with the mother that I had, who really always explained to me that fashion was a tool for women to communicate with each other about how they were feeling and also about their culture,” she says, breaking down the origins of her passion for the industry. “Fashion has always been very tied to history, culture, and communication for me.” This perspective is suffused through the design ethos of her brand, in that it all stems from something far greater than just aesthetics. Fashion “also seemed and felt like a feminist device,” she explains. Never has that intentionality been more vital. Last summer, after the senseless killing of George Floyd and the resulting nationwide civil unrest—a maelstrom compounded by the economic harm inflicted on Black-owned businesses due to the
pandemic—James thought about what she could do to help. The result: She launched the 15 Percent Pledge, calling on major retailers to commit to stocking at least 15 percent of their shelf space with products from Black-owned businesses. (The number 15 comes from the fact that Black people account for about 15 percent of the U.S. population). “When I launched the 15 Percent Pledge, the same proposition, right? It’s that, you know, Brother Vellies, is sold at a lot of the major retailers across the country, but there’s a lot of Black-owned businesses obviously that haven’t got that opportunity,” she says. “So, what does it look like to bring them into the mix as well?” With the 15 Percent Pledge, James wants to not only increase the visibility of these businesses; but also, to set them up for ongoing, long-term success. Building and supporting community in that way—on both a global and local level— is at the core of her personal ethos. Whether it’s by holding corporate America accountable for creating real, tangible equity and inclusion, or by working with smaller, artisanal, and familyoperated businesses to craft shoes, bags, and homeware items, this work is important to James. “I think one important role that I have—since I’ve been granted the platform that I have—is just to continue advocating for people,” the Toronto native turned L.A. transplant (by way of NYC) explains. “Oftentimes when we think about our communities, we think of the people that we’re most commonly sitting shoulder to shoulder with at a table. It’s also important to think about the people who have not yet had access to that room.” Tapping into that global community was crucial to James— and it’s not just lip service. “I think, for me, that was sort of the reason why I wanted to structure Brother Vellies in the way that we did,” she says. “You know, the artisans in Africa and involving them in the conversation—and even in Italy—and really focusing on these communities that have traditional skill sets and integrating them into that fashion conversation.” As we’ve spent the last year and change at home, our appreciation for our home base and the need to create safe spaces has become ever more important. We are curating our surroundings with thought and intention—becoming conscious of the items we buy. At the same time, James’s fashion aesthetic has naturally translated into homeware and decor, effortlessly. From her stylish L.A. pad—complete with a Togo chair and an Ingo Maurer fan sconce—to the Brother Vellies brick and mortar, it only makes sense that she would expand into the home. “I’ve always been really in love with the idea of products for the home,” she admits.
For those who need more curatorial guidance, Brother Vellies offers a subscription service, the Something Special Subscription, a monthly made-to-order membership, that often includes artisanal home decor items (from ceramic vases to Oaxacan mugs). “My home is incredibly important to me, and I really have always been intentional about only bringing things into the space that I love and cherish,” James explains. “During the pandemic I wanted to find a way to connect with our customers while they were at home, and it was a home order. I didn’t really feel like it was appropriate to, you know, try to push people to buy shoes, so I thought it would be nice to utilize parts of our own artisan community and parts of their extended network to create small products for home. That was the emphasis behind launching Something Special.” Inspiration and creativity like that can be hard to muster when the world seems to be falling down around us. Even though James has always been solutions-oriented, she admits to finding the recent past challenging. “It’s a bit of a struggle,” she admits. “A lot is going on: at home, in Afghanistan. There is a lot going on in the world. So, I don’t know that right now I am incredibly inspired to create, like, you know, these over-the-top things. I think it’s really about making sure that the brand and that myself, as a founder, are continuing to do what I can to advocate for our consumers in a meaningful way, to make sure that their existence can maintain it, and that we can also have wonderful, beautiful lives.” As with the very foundation of the Brother Vellies/Aurora James universe, materiality remains key. “I want to make beautiful things along the way, but I think for me, it’s really about looking at really natural materials and making sure that we’re sourcing in a way that feels important, special, and helpful to the planet,” she says. “It’s been a big material exploration for me... Looking into our own very brief archive, and really just homing in on the fundamental principles of the brand, I think, is really what’s been inspiring me, honestly.” As we wrap up our call, I ask James a question that is perhaps unexpected: “What do you like to do for fun?” We’ve talked about business models, initiatives, fashion, and the heaviness in the world today, but surely all of that must be balanced by something lighter? Perhaps unsurprisingly, James reveals she is about to bake a delicious loaf of banana bread: yet another iteration of her delicious creativity. “I absolutely love to cook dinner at home with friends and go over to other friend’s houses for dinner parties,” she says. Socially conscious, extremely stylish, ethical fashion pioneer, a heart of gold and a consummate hostess and chef—what can’t she do?
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GREAT ESCAPES DUST OFF YOUR PASSPORT (AND BRING THE VACCINE ONE!) TO VISIT THESE INCOMPARABLE DESTINATIONS. BY CASEY BRENNAN
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n the face of all the tragedy that the last 18 months have brought, it’s hard to get too upset about a Rimowa dusting in the corner or your Instagram stories getting stale. Still, with all we’ve been through—and with vaccines rolled out and variants abating—a touch of travel seems like just the thing to refresh and recenter. It’s time to embrace the beauty of the world again (safely, carefully) and some of our longtime favorites are just begging for a visit. First, a vote for Grazia’s home nation of Italy. The first Western country to face COVID-19, Italy has emerged as a leader in adopting new technologies and protocols to keep residents and visitors alike safe and healthy. Late fall is the ideal time to visit, thanks to perfectly moderate temperatures and the absence of teeming summer crowds. First stop: Il Pellicano remains the gold standard for chic luxury and understated elegance. Located in Porto Ercole on the Argentario Coast of Tuscany, the luxury boutique hotel was built in the 1960s as a romantic private getaway for American socialite Patsy Daszel and British aviator Michael Graham; celebrity friends like Charlie Chaplin, Henry Ford, and Gianni Agnelli visited, and photographer Slim Aarons—who visited the hotel for more than 25 years—memorialized the iconic cliffside retreat in stunning snaps. Il Pellicano was purchased by Roberto Scio in 1979 and is today run by his daughter Marie-Louise, who has managed to maintain the property’s history and carefree spirit while transforming it into a five-star luxury destination. With aweinspiring sea views and carefully curated landscaping, including an overflow of bougainvillea, the property features an array of restaurants and bars as well as a picturesque pool and elegant Beach Club, where Aarons staged many of his now-famous shots with pals including Kirk Douglas, Britt Ekland, and Yul Brenner. The spa features products from Italian brand Santa Maria Novella and the boutique—curated by Marie-Louise herself—sells Borsalino hats, Eres swimwear, and Il Pellicano gear designed by APC Paris; other featured designers include Jil Sander, La Doble J, Lutz Morris, Fedeli, and Rianna+Nina. Further down the coast on the Ligurian Sea lies the Italian
Riviera fishing village of Portofino— where not a single new house has been constructed since 1935. There, Belmond’s Splendido Mare reopened this past May after a complete restoration to the hotel’s 14 rooms, which feature breathtaking views of the yacht-dotted harbor. The revamped chambers are stocked with antiques, including fruitwood armchairs by Paolo Buffa and Gio Ponti, walnut armchairs by Ulrich Guglielmo, and table lamps by Oscar Torlasco; locally sourced materials include terracotta tiles from Impruneta, ceramic tiles from Garfagnana, and marble from Carrara; and the property’s impressive 100-piece art collection features works by Italian painter Gabriele Cappelli as well as local artists. Then there’s the art you’ll find on your plate. The deceptively casual fine-dining seafood spot, DaV Mare is an oasis of mindbending cuisine crafted from local products. With three Michelin stars between them, brothers Enrico and Roberto Cerea have created a world-class menu in their tiny kitchen off the quaint cobblestone port. (The pesto risotto with Santa Margherita prawns is unrivaled, and the tableside preparation of the Paccheri alla Vittorio DaV is almost as impressive as its flavor profile.) A sister property, Splendido, a Belmond Hotel, is housed up the hill in a stately 16th-century monastery. One might opt to walk the jasmine-scented paths connecting it with the harbor, or opt for an easy shuttle ride. Unwind with a sail along the Tigullio Gulf in the hotel’s private boat, or relax in the spa with treatments using Mediterranean herbs and plants, including chamomile, sage, and basil. Or simply sit on your balcony and soak in the postcard-perfect views from every direction. Fashionphiles will surely be intrigued by the upcoming retreat happening from October 28 to 21. “Let’s Do Blue Jeans in Genoa” will explore the region’s long history with denim, said to be created in the shipyards of Genoa in the 15th century from strong, cross-weaved cotton fabric and originally used as sails. The immersive celebration of indigo fabric will include luxury accommodations, a VIP museums tour, and lunch in a private palace, along with a hands-on blue jeans workshop. For more of Italian culture, head across the country to the Adriatic coast. Although Venice has implemented strict rules
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on visitors since the pandemic—including an entry fee and booking system to alleviate mass tourism and protect the city’s resources—Hotel Cipriani remains a gem worth visiting. Opened in 1956 by Giuseppe Cipriani—also the founder of Harry’s Bar, the legendary birthplace of the Bellini cocktail—Cipriani is an oasis of charm and elegance. This November, in honor of Venice turning 1,600 years old, the hotel is offering a special exploration of the region’s history, complete with behind-the-scenes tours of the city’s libraries and archives, including Fondazione Cini Library and the 13th-century Library San Francesco della Vigna showcasing rare books and preserved manuscripts—truly a once-in-alifetime experience. Amalfi may be synonymous with summer, but Il San Pietro Positano is equally breathtaking year-round. Built directly into the rocks of the cliffs above the Mediterranean Sea, it comes complete with the Michelin-starred eatery Zass and a stylish–yet simple beach club; another Positano standout is the Sireneuse, located right in the center of town, walking distance from all the retail and entertainment action. Rolling hills and vineyards more your scene? In the Tuscan region, Villa San Michele offers the perfect respite—and socially distant activities. Housed in a monastery with a 15th-century facade said to be courtesy of Michelangelo, the Florence hideaway is nestled on a hilltop and surrounded by lush, terraced gardens and trees. This season, guests of Villa San Michele can take a tour in the property’s very own vintage Fiat1100 Musone for exclusive access to the city’s local ateliers and artisan shops selling everything from jewelry and shoes to crystalware and perfume; the day ends with a “The Art of Packing” workshop at Louis Vuitton. In short, the world is your oyster once more. Are you ready for a taste? “What is clear to us is that the past 18 months has not dampened our collective desire and excitement about travel,” Arnaud Champenois, SVP of branding and marketing for Belmond worldwide, tells GRAZIA Gazette. “People will explore the world again. It’s a question of when we can and when we feel comfortable doing so.” But even once we feel “safe” to hop back on a plane and explore the world, we now have the added responsibility of doing it mindfully. “However, beyond the excitement of being able to travel again, there is also the greater recognition within the travel community to travel better,” Champenois continues. “This period of stillness has given us the opportunity to see the precious meaning of travel. It can no longer be perceived as a commodity. Travel is a luxury, an experience that one should cherish and make it meaningful. We are seeing people embrace this renewed spirit for all that travel can offer. As a brand that straddles both luxury and travel, our role is ever-evolving and we are excited to facilitate and empower these exchanges through conscientious travel.” There is no better place to soak up the true essence of Italy than at Reschio, a 3,700-acre ancient pastoral estate located in the hills at the edge of Umbria. The property is like none other, with the goal of protecting this special region of Italy, comprising olive groves, vineyards, and an equestrian center along with restored farmhouses and the Castello de Reschio, a thousand-year-old castle that was painstakingly
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restored and reopened this past spring as a 36-room hotel with a restaurant, spa, and large heated pool. The hotel’s suites are special, with some featuring centuries-old milling equipment, stone-carved fireplaces, and even one with an old olive press; the Tower Suite is spread across five floors and boasts its very own roof garden and open-air tub—the ultimate in social distancing. With sustainability at front of mind, the Ristorante al Castello uses uber-local produce and ingredients from the estate’s very own gardens, forests, olive groves, beehives, and vineyards. For an immersive experience, activities include truffle hunting, pasta-making classes, and horseback-riding lessons as well as hiking and biking on the estate’s trails. If lounging poolside with a chilled glass of rosé is more your thing, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is the ultimate spot to camp out for some post-Fashion Week R&R. Located in the French Riviera town of Antibes, Hotel du Cap-EdenRoc was initially conceived as an artist’s retreat when it opened 150 years ago, hosting guests like President John F. Kennedy, disgraced royal couple Wallis Simpson and the Duke of Windsor, Ernest Hemingway, Dorothy Parker, and Picasso; it’s now the playground for well-heeled travelers and A-listers, including Madonna, Katy Perry and Orlando Bloom (the couple went public with their romance with an Instagram snap taken on the hotel’s famous front steps), Kourtney Kardashian, and Bella Hadid, who stepped out with beau Marc Kalman at the hotel this summer. For a truly special getaway, the Chevre d’Or in nearby Èze can’t be beat. With breathtaking views of Saint-JeanCap-Ferrat from the terrace of the hotel’s bar, the rooms are spread out around the town, providing the ultimate adventure. If a quick trip is what you have in mind, the Caribbean is still tops, thanks to quick and easy flights. Be poolside with drink in hand at the Rosewood Baha Mar in Nassau, Bahamas, in just over three hours or snag a suite at the always-perfect The Ocean Club, a Four Seasons Resort where Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten serves up French-Asian fusion at Dune. At GoldenEye in Jamaica’s Oracabessa, music executive turned hotelier Chris Blackwell has created an oasis of private bungalows, cottages, and beach huts set among lust gardens—ideal for decompressing and recharging. But nothing compares to the idyllic beaches and party scene of Saint-Barthélemy, the beloved French island that has long been known for drawing the fashionable set. The island was hard hit by Hurricane Irma in 2017 but iconic properties like Eden Rock, Le Cheval, and Le Toiny are now back—and more popular than ever. The perfect blend of laid-back and super scene-y, no other island can compare to the paradise that is St. Bart’s. For those looking for a city vibe, our neighbors to the north just debuted a brand-new must-visit spot last month, thanks to the opening of the 1 Hotel Toronto. Located in the city’s trendy West King Street neighborhood, it’s the first 1 Hotel to open in Canada bringing the brand’s sustainable luxury concept along with new restaurants, including Casa Madera and Flora and an outpost of Harriet’s, with an original location in LA. “As a world-class city with globally respected sustainability
programs, Toronto is an exceptional new base for 1 Hotels,” Barry Sternlicht, CEO and Chairman of Starwood Capital Group and the visionary behind the 1 Hotel group of properties, says in a press release for the opening. “Protecting the one planet is why we are called 1 Hotels, and this mantra fuels the spirit of each property. It is my hope that every guest visiting 1 Hotel Toronto feels encouraged to maintain appreciation for the preservation of our planet long after their stay.” For those who prefer to stay on U.S. soil, there is nothing quite like an excursion out West, and the Amangiri offers a superlative experience. Spread over 600 acres of the Utah desert, the Amangiri is the place of Instagram dreams, with gorgeous red-rock canyons, dramatic mesas, and breathtaking ridges and gorges. For those who enjoy the outdoor adventure life, Amangiri boasts the longest climb in the Northern Hemisphere, the Cave Peak Stairway made up of 120 steps that span 200 feet; those who prefer to take it easy can opt for the Ultimate Terrain Vehicle excursions, e-bike tours, horseback riding, and hot-air balloon flights. “Fall is one of the best times to visit the southwest for its long summer season that goes well into September,” Julien Surget, the general manager of Amangiri, tells Grazia Gazette. “The weather is predictably beautiful, and the mild temperatures are ideal for all-day adventures. This midseason also allows guests to enjoy the region with fewer crowds.” At the Amangani, located in the foothills of the cowboychic town of Jackson Hole, Wyo., guests get exclusive access to Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks; a Teton Picnic including homemade provisions and a chilled bottle of wine, can be arranged by the hotel and is a truly unique experience. Back East, Shou Sugi Ban House has expanded its wellness offerings with the opening of Shou Sugi Ban Inn, adjacent to the original Watermill location, which opened in 2019. The intimate bed-and-breakfast now offers guests another option for the ultimate reset, complete with plant-rich meals from Michelin-starred chef Mads Refslund, organic Japanese amenities, and precious time away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. And, for a hyper-local staycation, there is finally a reason for New Yorkers to go to Times Square other than to see a Broadway show: the arrival of the Times Square EDITION. The much-anticipated hotel is a welcome oasis to the oftmaligned neighborhood, with 452 guestrooms offering sweeping skyline views and a reprieve from apartment living, while six different dining concepts from Michelinstarred chef John Fraser will keep hungry guests satiated; the Paradise Club—the hotel’s seventh floor performance space—is the real show-stopper, described by the hotel as an inventive, chaotic, high production spectacle perfectly suited for Times Square and featuring world-class DJs, dance parties, and live performances; a dinner theater experience called “The Devouring” features a multisensory feast must be experienced. With another potentially uncertain winter looming, now is the time to take a break (pending current travel rules and safety precautions, of course) and see the world that was so dearly missed.
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AT GOLDENEYE IN JAMAICA’S ORACABESSA, MUSIC EXECUTIVE TURNED HOTELIER CHRIS BLACKWELL HAS CREATED AN OASIS OF PRIVATE BUNGALOWS.’
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BEACHY SCENE Art Basel Miami Beach has evolved into one of the glitziest shows in the world.
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BY AARON RASMUSSEN ILLUSTRATION BY PETER OUMANSKI
n December 2019—the last time Art Basel Miami Beach was held in person—absurdist artist Maurizio Cattelan duct-taped a fresh banana to a white wall at precisely a 37-degree angle 68 inches above the floor in the Perrotin gallery’s booth. The price tag for the piece, titled Comedian, and its accompanying certificate of authenticity? $120,000. Two editions quickly sold—reportedly, one to Colette boutique founder Sarah Andelman, and the other to Miami couple Billy and Beatrice Cox, who called the work the “unicorn of the art world.” The cost of owning the already mythic third edition was quickly raised to $150,000. But the perishable piece’s infamy reached its zenith (and sparked even more public debate about what constitutes a masterpiece) when performance artist David Datuna came along and ate one of the bananas. “I really love this installation. It’s very delicious,” he later captioned a video of the moment on Instagram. It remains to be seen if this year’s edition of Art Basel Miami Beach will create more historic, buzzworthy moments like these, but one thing is certain: After two years away, everyone from gallerists and artists to art patrons, collectors, and the just plain curious are more than ready to return to South Florida and the show that’s on the cusp of celebrating its landmark 20th anniversary. It’s been quite a journey so far. In 1970, three top gallerists, Trudl Bruckner, Ernst Beyeler, and Balz Hilt, launched what was then known as “Art” in Basel, Switzerland, to compete with Germany’s Art Cologne show. The first show in the city straddling the French and German borders attracted 16,000 visitors and featured 90 galleries from ten countries. “Increased free time, good salaries, far-reaching means of communication, and intensive exhibition activity have all led to more and more people becoming interested in
contemporary art,” reads a catalog from that first fair. Thirty years later, those words still rang true for former Basel director Lorenzo Rudolf, whose nine-year run helming the organization ended in 2000. Rather than the cooler climes of Switzerland, though, Rudolf turned his eye to the burgeoning art scene in Miami Beach for his next project, since it was—and still is—the vibrant nexus of North American and Latin cultures. A truly iconic experience was created after Beyeler apprentice Sam Keller fine-tuned what Rudolf noted was “the idea of contemporary art as a lifestyle choice” and launched ABMB in 2002. The results of that inaugural year were stunning: 30,000 visitors and 160 galleries from 23 countries—roughly double what the original Art Basel accomplished at its debut. And, it’s grown exponentially ever since. Art Basel Miami Beach’s flair for creating scenes to be seen has also escalated, sometimes with unintended results. In 2015, a woman was stabbed in the Nova sector in the shadow of Miami artist Naomi Fisher’s installation The Swamp of Sagittarius. Onlookers reportedly thought they were watching performance art and Fisher later said one eyewitness told her he initially thought the very real blood gushing from the victim’s wounds was fake. The parties in Miami during the fair are a bit less dramatic—but they too have become the stuff of legend for different reasons. “Without question, my favorite happening year after year is the epic Wynwood Walls Artist dinner,” Jessica Goldman Srebnick, Co-Chair, Goldman Properties and Founder/CEO of Goldman Global Arts, tells Grazia Gazette: NYFW. Goldman Srebnick’s outdoor museum Wynwood Walls managed to revitalize a formerly decaying neighborhood and now features a collection of giant graffiti and street art murals by Aiko, FAILE, Kenny Scharf, Ryan McGinness,
and other famed art stars. “To see the best street artists in the world all together at one time in one of the most iconic venues for street art is a sight to see,” she says. If current estimates are any indicator, a lot of eyes will be on a huge range of work during ABMB 2021. This December, more than 4,000 artists and nearly 300 galleries will showcase projects at the Miami Beach Convention Center’s 500,000 square feet of exhibition space, including large-scale pieces in the newer sector, “Meridians,” emerging artists with cutting-edge designs in “Nova,” and a single creator’s body of work or themed group exhibitions in “Kabinett.” Over time, the fair has famously launched both artists and galleries, but it’s also helped put Miami on the map as one of the most glamourous, dynamic, and culturally relevant artistic destinations in the world. In addition, ABMB has spawned off-site satellite fairs, pop-ups, parties, and other programming during the concurrent Miami Art Week, which runs this year from November 27 to December 6. Pérez Art Museum Miami, the Institute of Contemporary Art, and other leading institutions across the area often now save their best exhibitions for Art Basel Miami Beach’s arrival. Goldman Srebnick calls this period in the city “a celebration of creativity at its best.” A “yearly celebration,” Art Basel Miami Beach has been a gift to the art world on a global and local level, and continues to foster industry dialogue and connection across borders. “It has fueled a global artistic community, it has fueled careers and businesses, and it has ignited a new generation of artists to express themselves through various mediums on the critical topics facing our society and our planet,” she says, adding: “That is more than an art fair; that is a purpose.”
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I Won’t Leave Home Without It!
ALISON LOEHNIS
As the president of YOOX NET-A-PORTER GROUP, Alison Loehnis is a fixture at the NYFW shows— and is therefore a pro at toting the essentials. She opts for a chic bag from The Row. “It’s my go-to when I need to carry a lot,” Loehnis tells Grazia Gazette: NYFW. “I can stuff it and it holds everything that I need for marathon Fashion Week days. I love a big, soft bag that I can basically pack my entire office inside. This one also does double duty as a great ‘zipping around town’ weekend bag.” For the native New Yorker now living in London, NYFW is a chance to see new designs as well as old friends. “There’s something about NYFW that almost feels like back-to-school, replete with the memories of new shoes, new sweaters—I wore a uniform—and school supplies galore. I love reuniting with friends, my fashion family, and my U.S. team. I am beyond thrilled to be coming back to see the collections and feel the excitement and buzz firsthand.” net-a-porter.com.
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The Row tote, $2,308. Smythson notebook, $300. Bottega Veneta cardholder, $380. Montblanc pen, $535. Omorovicza face mist, $35. Net-A-Porter face mask, $50. Jennifer Fisher necklace, $275. CELINE sunglasses, $450. Aesop hand wash, $10. NARS eyeliner, $24. Bang & Olufsen earphones, $300. Frederic Male Carnal Flower Parfum, $75. Bottega Veneta clutch, $2,790.
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MELISSA CRONIN President, Chief Operations Officer BRENDAN MONAGHAN Executive Vice President, Global Chief Brands Officer
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GAZETTE
PAUL DOUSSET Chief Innovations Officer Executive Vice President of Business Development TANYA AMINI Vice President, General Manager SARA SHENASKY Executive Director of Global Events & Marketing JENNIFER YOUSEM Chief Financial Officer JILLIAN MAXWELL Head of Revenue (USA) BETSY JONES Head of Integrated Marketing & New Business Development
WELCOME TO MIAMI Art Basel is back and bringing the heat.
AIMEE MARETT Vice President Sales, Consumer Brand Partnerships BRIAN CAMPION Executive Creative Director ILARIA SVITIC Creative Director, Editorial & Integrated Marketing GABBY ZURROW Sales & Business Development Manager CASEY BRENNAN Executive Editor at Large DEBORAH DRAGON Director of Publishing Operations DOMINIC UTTON Chief Writer, Development Officer MELISSA MELENDEZ REALE Chief of Staff
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MONDADORI MEDIA S.p.a. Chief Executive Officer Carlo Mandelli; Managing Director International Business Daniela Sola; Head of International Platforms Marne Schwartz; International Marketing Manager Fashion & Design Francesca Brambilla; International Advertising Manager Daniella Angheben; Photos & Rights Manager Melania Landini For further details, please write to graziainternational@mondadori.com © 2021 Mondadori Media S.p.a. All rights reserved. Published by Pantheon Media Group LLC with the permission of Arnoldo Mondadori Editore S.p.a. and Mondadori Media S.p.a. Reproduction in any manner in any language in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited
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members see it free!
on view september 10 2021 february 20 2022
tiCKets avaiLabLe at brooKLynmuseum.orG
christian dior designer of dreams