GRAZIA Gazette: Art Basel 2022

Page 1

BASEL MIAMI TURNS 20

Craig Robins reflects on two decades of art and culture in Magic City and how he transformed the Miami Design District into a worldclass destination

NATURAL HABITAT

Nayara Tented Camp in Costa Rica is redefining luxury ecotourism with aweinspiring views and jaw-dropping rooms

MILESTONE MOMENTS

To celebrate the 20th year of Art Basel Miami Beach, we look back at defining anniversaries in music, fashion, TV and more

21293853Chn_B2171_CRUISE23_GraziaGazette_SP5_NYT_10x11.5_r3 Cruise 2022/23 Collection in Miami GAZETTEGRAZIA VOLUME XV FALL 2022 ART BASEL
21293853Chn_B2171_CRUISE23_GraziaGazette_ComBI6_DP6_CONS6_NYT_A_21x16_r5
21293853Chn_B2171_CRUISE23_GraziaGazette_ComBI6_DP6_CONS6_NYT_B_21x16_r5

Louis Vuitton Celebrates the Opening of 200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries: The Exhibition in New York City

To fête the final stop in its traveling trunk show, Louis Vuitton hosted a star-studded party in New York City on Oct. 13 featuring performances by Future and Lil Uzi Vert. Guests raised a glass to the opening of 200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries: The Exhibition, which features 200 imaginative trunks designed by 200 visionaries including Frank Gehry, Mark Jacobs, BTS and more in honor of the bicentennial birthday of the brand’s namesake founder. After the exhibition opened in Asnières-sur-Seine, France, it traveled to Singapore and Los Angeles. The trunks reached their final destination in N.Y.C. and will be displayed in the Barneys New York building through Dec. 31.

THE SCENE

& The Seen

Fashion month may be over, but the parties never stop!

8 GRAZIA USA
Clockwise from top left: Nina Dobrev, party goers, Justin Theroux, guest, Jaden Smith, guests.

JOSEPH

ILARIA SVITIC

CASEY BRENNAN

EDITOR AT LARGE

AARON RASMUSSEN

EDITOR AT LARGE

COLLEEN KRATOFIL DIGITAL DIRECTOR

JACLYN ROTH HEAD OF ENTERTAINMENT

SHELBY COMROE FASHION MARKET EDITOR

HANNAH MILITANO STYLE WRITER

ALEXANDRA SEXTON ART DIRECTOR

DIGITAL

JESSICA BAILEY INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

KARLI POLIZIANI DIRECTOR, E-COMMERCE

CHARLOTTE STOKES FASHION DIRECTOR

GRACE O’NEILL FASHION WRITER

REBEKAH CLARK FEATURES WRITER

EMILY ALGAR BEAUTY EDITOR

KATE LANCASTER

BEAUTY EDITOR

SEAN KRAVIT DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION & MULTI-MEDIA

FRIEDMAN, HALEY GUNN CARLY TENNES, KATHERINE TINSLEY CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

Our coterie of Miamians who embody success, culture, change, and the art of living well

THOMAS HAYES

Drawing inspiration from exotic woods and midcentury-modern design from Brazil, Thomas Hayes’ eponymous furniture studio features a variety of handcrafted and custom-made luxury stools, dining tables and couches.

After a successful career in media, Carol Altieri switched gears as she and her husband Paul co-founded Bob’s Watches — the world’s first and only pre-owned Rolex exchange where consumers can buy, sell, and trade vintage and pre-owned Rolex watches at true fair market value.

DJ MARTIAL SIMON

With a natural ear for rhythm, DJ and producer Martial Simon has cultivated a following of music lovers thanks to his unique style, which blends hip-hop with house to create a g-house and deep bass house vibe.

ALANA OXFELD

Publicist-turned-entrepreneur Alana Oxfeld launched State of Kid along with partner Cheryl Gonzalez in 2019 as a modern children's concept complete with enrichment classes and an enviable assortment of clothing, accessories and décor from coveted American, European and Australian brands.

IN The Issue

A brand strategist, marketing maven, publicist and New York Times bestselling author, Jared Shapiro is the founder and managing director of Miami-based PR and marketing agency The Tag Experience, working with clients in corporate, lifestyle, tech, finance, hospitality, food and beverage, celebrity, sports and more.

10 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
17 MOST WANTED 21 LOOKING FORWARD 24 HOT HUES 30 ART & SOUL 36 VERSACE AFTER GIANNI
CAROL ALTIERI JARED SHAPIRO
ERRICO EDITOR & CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
CONTRIBUTING
REBECCA
© 2022 Mondadori Media S.p.a. All rights reserved. Published by Pantheon Media Group, LLC, with the permission of Arnoldo Mondadori Editore S.p.a. and Mondadori Media S.p.a. Reproduction in any manner in any language in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited. Advertising inquiries: sales@graziausa.com. Press inquiries: press@graziausa.com. General inquiries: contact@graziausa.com. For syndication, email contact@graziausa.com.

THE NOW

Chanel is hitting the road! After the luxury French fashion house debuted the Cruise 2022/2023 collection along the beaches of Monte Carlo in May, it switched gears and headed to the United States this month for a special second show of the assortment in Miami.

The iconography of Monte Carlo served as influence for pieces in the line, but some of the qualities that make the European city so beloved mirror those of Miami. The collection features direct nods to Monaco’s racing culture with clothing covered in starter flag prints. There are also pit crew coveralls and helmets doubled as accessories when models carried them down the runway in Monte Carlo. The concept works just as well in Miami since the city hosted its first Formula 1 race earlier this year, making it a hot new destination on the Grand Prix circuit.

Other pastimes enjoyed in Monte Carlo, like tennis, boating and sea swimming (also Miami favorites), are represented through pieces including novelty tennis rackets that ranged in size from micro-mini to XXL. Sporty sneakers are styled with everything from tennis skirts to Chanel’s classic tweed sets in outfits that will look just at home in Miami as they do along the Riviera.

The sporty atmosphere is only one element of the 67-piece line. “There are lots of tweed or silk jumpsuits lined with light terry cloth,” says Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard. “[There are] many sequins and flower-shaped embroidered plastrons adorning thinly striped long shirtdresses with white high collars — a nod to Karl [Lagerfeld]— a sequined midnight blue dress, or backless tops worn over wide-cut trousers.”

Chanel’s late creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s love of Monte Carlo was a big source of inspiration for Viard and the latest Cruise collection. “Monaco is inherent to the history of Chanel. We have lived so many happy moments there,” she notes, explaining Lagerfeld’s villa, La Vigie, was visible from the runway show staged at Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel in the spring. “I will never forget the times I spent

Cruising To MIAMI

Chanel makes a pit stop in Florida to present a special showing of its resort collection

there: terraces and balconies, big umbrellas, baskets of flowers — so much beauty.”

The last time the fashion house made it to Miami for a show was in 2008, when Lagerfeld presented Cruise ‘08/’09 on a runway constructed over the pool at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach. Still, Chanel has permanent roots in The Magic City. The brand opened a two-story boutique in the heart of the Design District in December 2021 that was created by architect and frequent Chanel collaborator Peter Marino.

While inspiration for the latest Cruise collection may have been rooted in Monte Carlo, the range of sporty and chic styles encapsulated in the new Cruise collection is sure to take the checkered flag in Miami. 155 NE 41st St, Miami, FL 33137; chanel.com

13 FALL 2022

Get Inspired

Art Basel always ignites a spark of creativity, and these classic coffee table books will keep the flame burning well after the festivities end

FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH

The New Black Vanguard: Photog raphy Between Art and Fashion

Curator and critic

Antwaun Sargent charts the history of the Black image and its evolution currently taking place thanks to the interna tional community of Black photographers. The book showcases an illustrated essay and 15 artist portfolios from Tyler Mitchell, Campbell Addy, Nadine Ijewere and more.

Art House

Go inside the homes of leading art collec tor, Chara Schreyer. The art patron collab orated with interior designer Gary Hutton to create five resi dences to house her 600-piece collection that includes works from Marcel Du champ, Joseph Beuys and Man Ray.

Resculpted contours, regained volume and reduced wrinkles — La Prairie Labs just unveiled its latest innovation, Skin Caviar Harmony L’Extrait, and the Caviar Infinite-infused treatment promises to do everything one could wish for in a single skincare product. Yes, you read that right. According to the brand, the extrait “restores the harmony of youth” by strengthening the “vertical pillars” that attach skin to its facial foundation. Upon application, L’Extrait has a light gel texture that leaves skin with a satin-smooth finish. It's created to be used together with the brand’s other iconic Skin Caviar products, like the Luxe Cream and Liquid Lift, for a fully targeted lifting and firming skincare experience.

The groundbreaking product comes in a glass vial tinted in the brand’s striking signature cobalt blue, a color that honors the design ethos of the house and will be fêted at Art Basel in Miami this year. A La Prairie Lounge in

the VIP Collector’s area of the convention center will showcase the Swiss brand’s heritage, including the history behind its signature shade. (It was inspired by Niki de Saint Phalle’s frequent use of the color in her paintings and sculptures, and La Prairie and the artist shared space in the same building in 1982.) The brand is also opening up its private collection to display some of Saint Phalle’s pieces during the festivities. Satisfy your caviar craving with the new product, out now. laprairie.com

Great Women Artists

This coffee table tome is filled with artwork from over 400 female artists highlighting 500 years of creativity. Key work from each artist is included along with a short text, making it the most extensive fully illustrated book on women creatives ever published.

Pop Art Style

Following its beloved Travel books, publisher Assouline launched a new Style series to highlight the impact of art and design moments on modern culture.

Featuring 180 striking photographs, Pop Art Style explores 60 years of iconic works of prod uct design, furniture, fashion and art.

What’s old is new again. After undergoing a massive makeover, The Boca Raton is back — and better than ever. While the breathtaking entry remains, graced by an Italianate fountain and lined with palm trees, the formerly bright pink exterior has been refreshed with a pearly shade of white. What was once two separate properties located along the Intracoastal Waterway and Lake Boca Raton, The Boca Raton is now spread over 200-acres to form a single destination made up of five distinct hotels: Beach Club, Bungalows, Yacht Club, Cloisters and Tower.

Guests staying at one of the resort’s 1,027 rooms, suites and bungalows have access to a private beach, spa and golf course in addition to 12 restaurants, including Sadelle’s (the “bagels-in-bed" room service option is a favorite), Principessa and The

Flamingo Grill, which is operated by culinary juggernaut Major Food Group. The 50,000-squarefoot Spa Palmera features almost every treatment imaginable and both the Beachside and Harborside Fitness Clubs offer group classes and serve up stunning views while guests sweat it out on stateof-the-art equipment. There are also 20 tennis and pickleball courts along with watersports, yoga, cooking classes and wine tastings. The four-acre Harborside Pool Club is a major draw thanks to its waterslides, lazy river, 48 brand new cabanas and two restaurants. There’s also a family section as well as an adults-only area. A very warm welcome (back) to the neighborhood.

501 E Camino Real, Boca Raton, FL; thebocaraton.com

14 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
La Prairie is turning back the clock and expanding its Skin Caviar offerings with a new product launch
Elegance REIMAGINED SOUTH FLORIDA’S ICONIC THE BOCA RATON REOPENS AFTER A STUNNING $200 MILLION RENOVATION

Menu THEON

Miami is bringing the heat with a number of new restaurants sure to make your mouth water

STEPPING INTO HISTORY

alling all fashion history buffs! A documentary just hitting theaters explores the life and career of legendary Italian footwear designer Salvatore Ferragamo. Directed by Call Me by Your Name’s Luca Guadagnino, Salvatore: Shoemaker of Dreams chronicles Ferragamo’s career path and creative journey as he built his namesake brand into one that’s still beloved today.

The film follows the icon’s days as a novice apprentice shoemaker in Naples. It then charts his time helming the Hollywood Boot Shop in California, where he made shoes for the likes of Joan Crawford and Gloria Swanson before returning to his native Italy to establish his eponymous brand in Florence in 1927. Ferragamo was ahead of his time, combining artisan techniques with the efficiency of modern American factories. After filing for bankruptcy during the Great Depression, he rebounded and purchased the gothic Florentine palace, Palazzo Spini Feroni, which is still owned by the Ferragamo family and houses the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.

The documentary, narrated by Michael Stuhlbarg as the designer, includes archival imagery and intimate tales from the Ferragamo family. Director Martin Scorsese remarks on the intertwined relationship between cinema and fashion, while footwear designers Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin express their reverence for the late innovator.

Best BUDS

There’s no denying the power of art — especially when it comes to kids’ creativity. Basel Buddies, a Miami-based 503c charitable organization founded by sisters-in-law Manoela and Tori Burstyn, is ensuring children from all backgrounds have beneficial creative outlets. “Basel Buddies came about during the pandemic when I was able to provide an outlet of creativity for my children at home,” Manoela says. “This got me thinking about the underprivileged community that didn’t have the same opportunities as my kids and how I wanted to change that for them.” The organization partners with local and well-known artists to create one-ofa-kind artworks that raise funds for troubled children to explore creative passions. “We believe providing kids with a creative outlet gives them the chance to explore their emotions, develop self-awareness, learn how to cope with stress, boost their self-esteem, and expand their social skills,” Manoela explains. “We also donate art supplies to various organizations so kids can get creative on their own time.” Baselbuddies.org

Aba

This stunning restaurant leaves diners feeling as if they’ve been whisked away on a culinary adventure on the Mediterranean Sea.

The menu, curated by Top Chef alum CJ Jacobson, features a fusion of rich flavors from Israel, Turkey, Greece and Lebanon — but the twist is that the chef infuses his own sunny California influences into the mix, making it a unique and tasty experience.

The 240-plus seat restaurant includes an indoor dining room and bar, covered patio and mezzanine bar as well as a terrace right on the ground floor of Bal Harbour Shops.

Gekkō

Entrepreneur David Grutman and musical artist Benito Ocasio, a.k.a. Bad Bunny, recently collaborated on a Japanese steakhouse at the SLS Lux Brickell Tower. An omakase bar seats six, and the menu offers everything from Wagyu beef to a full selection of sushi. Since the word Gekkō translates into “moonlight” in English, it’s only fitting that the eatery’s aesthetic is lush, luxe and jewel-toned, transporting diners to another galaxy.

Lucky Cat

Gordon Ramsay’s first Miami endeavor Lucky Cat is located in the South of Fifth neighborhood and delights with dishes inspired by the different regions of Asia. Drink in the relaxing atmosphere created by a raw bar, chef’s table and late-night lounge while feasting on the many Pan-Asian dishes paired with incredible cocktails, sushi, sashimi and more. If Chef Ramsay happens to make an appearance, hopefully he’ll go with the tranquil vibe and keep the screaming in the kitchen to a minimum.

Beauty and the Butcher

Jeremy Ford is at it again. After opening Stubborn Seed in Miami Beach in 2017, the Top Chef season 13 winner is introducing his latest restaurant in Coral Gables. The name Beauty and the Butcher is a nod to his eldest daughter, Madelynn, but the food choices are still all him since he’s showcasing seasonal small plates with a focus on meat. And yes, there’s much more than just steak on the menu.

Casa Bufala

The laidback spot is set to officially open this month in the heart of Sunset Harbor in Miami Beach. They’ll serve up delicious pizzas, pastas and more to patrons in an equally appetizing setting that’s decorated with colorful artwork and furniture. Ciao bella!

GRAZIA USA FALL 2022
Sony acquired the documentary shortly ahead of its world premiere when it debuted at the Venice Film Festival in 2020, and now the American release of Salvatore: Shoemaker of Dreams will surely put a pep in any high heel lover’s step.
CA new documentary highlights renowned designer Salvatore Ferragamo’s immeasurable legacy
GET TO KNOW BASEL BUDDIES, A MIAMIBASED NONPROFIT THAT EMPOWERS LOCAL YOUTH THROUGH ART

MAKING MOVES

SBALENCIAGA OPENS A NEW MIAMI FLAGSHIP LOCATION IN THE DESIGN DISTRICT

ince taking over as creative director of Balenciaga in 2015, Demna has been busy reimagining the in-demand brand and ushering in a new era. The Georgian designer’s avant-garde creations along with reinventions of classic pieces by the luxury fashion house’s founder Cristóbal Balenciaga, have brought must-have looks season after season. His pieces — which range from opulent haute couture ballgowns to quirky accessories that quickly go viral — are beloved by stars from Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa to Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé and Nicole Kidman. After showing the latest collection for Spring 2023, Demna has a new project to debut: the opening of a brand-new flagship location in Paradise Plaza at Miami’s ultra-chic Design District. This massive 8,487-square-foot space at the center of the city’s go-to shopping center is the largest US store to date. It will replace Balenciaga’s original Design District location which debuted in late 2018, while another Balenciaga location at Bal Harbour Shops will continue to draw customers on Miami Beach.

Set over two stunning floors, the flagship “showcases the brand’s experiential ‘Raw Architecture’ concept, in which codes of luxury retails are reevaluated and interiors are designed with respect to exiting structural elements,” the brand explained in a press release.

“The concept was conceived to question the nature of authenticity with design details like simulated corrosion and rough edges that evoke the passage of time,” the release continues.

“Subsequently, Balenciaga products—ready-towear, shoes, bags, accessories, jewelry, eyewear, and objects—in this setting stand in an atemporal condition, not associated with any specific contingency.” As with many of Balenciaga’s locations globally, the new one in Design District will feature specially commissioned artworks.

Taking cues from the brand’s own playful DNA and Demna’s enfant terrible approach to high fashion, the store — designed by art director Niklas Bildstein Zaar and architect Andrea Faraguna of the Berlinbased architecture studio SUB — is more cutting edge than stuffy. Two backlit Balenciaga signs highlight each floor and are visible through a glass and chrome façade to the plaza outside. Cracked and crumbling concrete blocks, slabs adorned with fading graffiti and tiled walls layered with synthesized residue add to the ambiance and show shoppers that it’s not the typical haute couture experience.

Cables, piping, ventilation systems, and lighting fixtures are left exposed. As a nod to Miami’s historic architecture, Art Deco flooring is featured, but in Demna’s version, it’s chipped and peeling away. On another floor, a spill of enamel peeks out from under benches. Throughout the monumental space, patinas on aluminum displays, metal grates and industrial railings are deployed as finishes, “suspending the space in a state of conditionality.” This all contributes to an unfinished look that’s stylish and purposeful, much like Demna’s couture creations themselves. 151 NE 41st Street, Miami, Florida 33137; balenciaga.com

16 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV

WHO WEARS SHORT SKIRTS

17 FALL 2022 MORE AT GRAZIAMAGAZINE.COM
MINISKIRTS WERE A DEFINING TREND OF THE EARLY AUGHTS AND THEY’RE NOW BACK AND BETTER THAN EVER. DESIGNERS HAVE BEEN SENDING NEW ITERATIONS OF THE Y2K FAVORITE DOWN THE RUNWAY, FROM LOW-RISE CUTS TO ASYMMETRICAL HEMS, GIVING THE SHORT SKIRT A FRESH SPIN.
COPERNI OFFWHITE
LAQUAN
SMITH DIESEL VERSACE
BODY JEWELRY IS A MIAMI MUS T CHAIN REACTION Jacquie Aiche body chain, $12,000, jacquieaiche.com Ali Weiss hand chain, $400, aliweissjewelry.com The M Jewelers beaded belly chain, $54, themjewelersny.com NAiiA hand chain, $149, shopnaiia.com SHAY belly chain, $6,500, shayjewelry.com OMA The Label body chain, $99, omathelabel.com

No Dress top, $223, nodress67.com; Siedrés skirt, $160, modaoperandi.com; Jennifer Fisher hoops, $850, jenniferfisherjewelry.com; The Attico shoes, $599, luisaviaroma.com; The Row bag, $920, fwrd.com; Bottega Veneta sunglasses, $415, bottegaveneta.com

Nensi Dojaka top, $1,338, saksfifthavenue.com; 16Arlington skirt, $690, selfridges.com; Jennifer Fisher hoops, $425, jenniferfisherjewelry.com; Seb Brown ring, $385, ssense.com; Saint Laurent shoes, $945, fwrd.com; Coperni bag, $510, us.coperniparis.com

GET THE PERFECT BEACH WAVES

Diesel jacket, $247, skirt, $136, belt, $150, shop.diesel.com; Éterne top, $95, eterne.com; Adidas sneakers, $160, ssense.com; CHANEL bag, $7,900, (800) 550-0005; Balenciaga sunglasses, $450, balenciaga.com

Lioness top, $59, us.lionessfashion.com; Mugler skirt, $1,284, luisaviaroma.com; Elsa Peretti earrings, $1,225, cuff, $32,000, tiffany.com; Paris Texas shoes, $385, farfetch.com; Bottega Veneta bag, $3,400, mytheresa.com

18 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
Brigeo Superfoods™ Banana + Coconut Hydrating Soft Wave Texture Spray, $25, sephora.com OUAI Wave Spray, $28, theouai.com Sun Bum Texturizing Sea Spray, $16.99, ulta.com Oribe Aprés Beach Wave and Shine Spray, $44, sephora.com R+Co Sail Soft Wave Spray, $36, sephora.com Ceremonia Texturizing Salt Spray, $20, ceremonia.com

Your Basel BAG

THE METALLIC GUESS RETOUR HANDBAG MATCHES

MIAMI’S VIBRANCY

s you head to galleries, exhibits and parties during Art Basel, having an accessory that’s as striking as the artwork on display is a must. Luckily, the GUESS Retour bag can compete with the most marvelous of masterpieces. Its metallic finish, python print and chunky chains scream Miami and the design makes it versatile enough for any event on the agenda.

The envelope flap bag features an adjustable cross-body strap as well as a top handle to transition from day to night with ease. While the blue-green colorway is stunning, the Retour also comes in shiny snakeskin and a variety of hyper-saturated bright hues and jewel-tone metallics. With so many finishes, you’ll be returning to the Retour time and time again.

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL

GRAZIA USA
Ferm Living mirror, $391, luisaviaroma.com Concrete Cat mirror, $1,950, comingsoonnewyork.com
Chen
Chen and Kai Williams mirror, $90, areaware.com
Gustaf Westman Objects mirror,
$1,400, ssense.com GUESS Retour Metallic Python Mini Satchel, $108, guess.com
Gaetano Pesce mirror, $295, comingsoonnewyork.com Seletti mirror, $472, seletti.it

Works of Art

DIOR UNVEILS THE LATEST EDITION OF THE LADY DIOR ART PROJECT FEATURING HANDBAG COLLABORATIONS

WITH 11 ARTISTS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

he Lady Dior handbag has gone down in fashion history as one of the most iconic and coveted accessories of all time thanks to a famous early fan, Princess Diana. The style debuted in 1995 and was originally called the “Chouchou,” or “Favorite” in French. After the First Lady of France, Bernadette Chirac, gifted the People’s Princess the purse, the royal carried it so often, including to the 1996 Met Gala, it eventually became better known as the “Lady Dior” bag.

Over 25 years later, the design— with its signature structured boxy shape, “DIOR” charm and Cannage topstitching — remains a classic and one of the most recognizable styles from the maison.

The bag’s roots are a nod to Christian Dior himself. The easyto recognize quilted design was inspired by Napoleon III chairs guests perched on during the brand’s very first fashion show in 1947. Now, Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, revamps the design each season with new materials, embellishments and sizes.

Grazia Chiuri gave the bags an especially modern flair in 2016 when she tapped a select group of creatives to reinterpret the Lady Dior handbag with their own artistic visions. The results were so inspiring that the brand is about to release its seventh edition of the Dior Lady Art project featuring collaborations with 11 artists from around the world: Brian Calvin and Alex Gardner (California); Shara Hughes (New York); Dorothy Iannone (America, Berlin-based); Ghada Amer (Egypt); Sara Cwynar (Canada, Brooklyn-based); Minjung Kim (South Korea, based in France, Italy and USA); Zhenya Machneva

T(Russia); Françoise Pétrovitch (France); Wang Yuyang (China); and Bouthanyna Al Muftah (Qatar).

Each artist brought their own sense of creativity and signature aesthetics to their designs to pay tribute to the savoir-faire of the brand. There are surrealist and pop art takes by Calvin, figurative artwork featuring a pair of hands by Gardner and a playful aviary-inspired interpretation by Pétrovitch, who reimagined the bag’s signature charm in the form of a bird. Some playful adornments include ruffles from Al Muftah and Machneva’s tasseled appliqués. As a special bonus, each contributor extended their work into the bag with a poetic surprise.

There will be a pre-launch selection of new Lady Dior Art pieces available this month followed by the full global launch in January. dior.com

20 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
Françoise Pétrovitch Alex Gardner Shara Hughes Shara Hughes Brian CalvinBrian Calvin Françoise Pétrovitch Françoise Pétrovitch

Time to

LOOKING FORWARD SHINE

Lilia Buckingham almost walked away from a career in acting before she got her big break in Hocus Pocus

THE ONLY
AND
2

wo summers ago, actress Lilia Buckingham was itching to get out of her hometown of Los Angeles and start college across the country at Boston University. She was relishing the chance to step behind the camera to focus on film production and put an end to the constant hustle of auditioning. The next phase of her life was all figured out — but as fate would have it, the universe had other plans.

“I decided I was going to take a step back from the whole ‘in front of the camera side’ of the industry, because I'd get so close to booking things, but then wouldn’t,” Buckingham, 19, tells GRAZIA USA. “Two weeks before I'm supposed to move into school, I booked Hocus Pocus 2. It was crazy and I could not be more grateful that the universe was like, ‘No girl, you're staying in the acting business.’”

After a three-month audition process, multiple director sessions and chemistry reads, she landed the role of Cassie Traske in the Disney+ hit and ended up living at school for just a month before filming commenced in Rhode Island in the fall of 2021. “It was definitely one of the craziest months of my life, but amazing, nonetheless,” the star recalls.

In Hocus Pocus 2, Buckingham plays one of three friends who tries to save modern-day Salem from the resurrected Sanderson sisters, portrayed by Bette Midler, Sarah Jessica Parker and Kathy Najimy. The teen says acting alongside the three legends who reprised their roles from the 1993 hit was “surreal” and she still can’t quite believe it happened. “It's just too crazy to comprehend.”

Before her big break, Buckingham was best known for her work with Brat TV, including on the series Dirt, Crown Lake (which she executive produced) and the movie Spring Breakaway. Despite her many roles within the Brat universe, one of the reasons Buckingham was ready to walk away from acting is because she’s well aware that rejection in the business is all but guaranteed for most performers. “I grew up in L.A. around so many other young actors and I knew that it's such a hard career to be in and it's almost impossible to book,” she explains. “It's really, really tough because there's obviously so many talented people out there and I think I knew it would be a dream to be in front of the camera; it's what I loved to do. But I never wanted to get my expectations up because I kept getting my heart broken with all these no’s.”

Buckingham reasoned at the time that while her first love, acting, might never turn into a lasting relationship with the business, she could tap into her passion for writing since her résumé already included co-authoring the book Influence with Sara Shepard, writer of the bestseller Pretty Little Liars. “The universe is so funny. Once I had accepted that and was happy and excited, the universe was like: ‘You get the Hocus Pocus 2 role.’”

While the movie may have reeled the back-on-the-rise star into getting in front of the camera again, she’s currently

Tcontinuing her film and television studies in Boston and hopes to one day own a production company that develops books into movies. She names as her inspiration Reese Witherspoon and the A-lister's company Hello Sunshine, which is responsible for bringing adaptations of Gone Girl, Where the Crawdads Sing and other bestselling novels to theaters. “I would absolutely love to end up there one day,” Buckingham notes.

In the meantime, Buckingham tells GRAZIA USA she’s already started working toward the goal with a short film she’s writing, producing and possibly starring in that she’s “super passionate” about. “It's been really nice just getting to have this creative freedom,” she says. “I'm so lucky and my creative juices are flowing.”

Buckingham is enjoying getting back into the flow of being a regular college kid, but there are moments when she’s reminded of her double life. “Somebody actually mentioned Hocus Pocus 2 the other day in one of our lectures talking about multimedia franchises and transmedia franchises and I was like, ‘I'm in that!’” Buckingham says.

Another recent day, the actress was walking on campus when she saw a girl dressed in a Hocus Pocus sweatshirt. “I was like, ‘I like your sweatshirt!’ It's just really cool to see fun little things like that where I really get to just be like Hannah Montana.”

Another aspect of fame that makes Buckingham’s reality a little different than the average student is the 1.5 million Instagram followers she began amassing years ago after befriending Mackenzie and Maddie Ziegler at MNR Dance Factory. It took Buckingham “a lot of learning” to figure out how to manage her social media-star status and strike the right balance between her public and private lives. “I think because I was exposed to social media so young and there is this new age of young people who are in the public eye, I felt for a long time that I owed my whole life to the people that followed me,” she shares. “And I've learned that it could not matter less. Now I just post whatever I want. I like to keep things at least a little bit private.”

One thing she doesn’t keep under wraps is her desire to use the platform to do good, which she does by promoting Positively Social, the charity she founded with the Zieglers in 2018. The organization’s mission is simple but difficult to achieve: Spread kindness and stop online bullying. “If I have this ability to speak to young people who are just like me, why wouldn't I use it?” Buckingham asks, noting she was inspired after weathering what she calls a “bad experience” online. “I was outed to everyone in my life, so I came out on social media when I was 14.”

She managed to turn the medium used to wound her into a tool to help her heal, and she grew stronger as a result. “That was the only place that I really got to reclaim that story

and reclaim my own personal power,” she says. “I was lucky enough to have such a positive, supportive reaction and it really gave me that closure that I needed to feel like I got to at least do something myself. And from there, I've always been a huge advocate in talking about important real-life things on social media when you feel inclined to, because it oftentimes will connect with someone. I’m also constantly using my films and my writing to tell stories of authentic, real young people and what they're going through.”

With her life so full, Buckingham says she’s currently trying to slow down and welcome everything happening during this unique time, such as when her film Hocus Pocus 2 was trending on Twitter after its September 30 debut. “The weekend it came out, I literally just sat in my dorm room with my girlfriend and was like, ‘I'm going to feel all the love and feel how grateful I am and do some reflecting, do some journaling, be very peaceful and just really, really appreciate this once in a lifetime thing that is happening.’”

She adds, “I'm really, really lucky.”

22 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
I KNEW IT WOULD BE A DREAM TO BE IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA; IT'S WHAT I LOVED TO DO. BUT I NEVER WANTED TO GET MY EXPECTATIONS UP BECAUSE I KEPT GETTING MY HEART BROKEN WITH ALL THESE NO’S.”
FULL LOOK BY SCARLET SAGE JEWELRY BY AUSTIN JAMES SMITH

Hot Hues

WARM UP YOUR WINTER WARDROBE WITH A MOOD-BOOSTING PUNCH OF PINK AND RED SHADES

24 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
Hevo
coat, hevo.it; Moschino dress, moschino.com.
Photographs by SVEN BÄNZIGER Styled by TAMARA GIANOGLIO
25
Valentino coat, top, trousers, scarf, gloves, shoes, bag, valentino.com. GRAZIA
USA
Versace dress, leggings, scarf, sunglasses, shoes, versace.com.
27 GRAZIA USA FALL 2022
Marina Rinaldi coat, us.marinarinaldi.com; Max Mara dress, balaclava, us.maxmara.com; Missoni boots, missoni.com.
28 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV Prada coat, shoes, prada.com
29 FALL 2022 MAX&Co.
vest, world.maxandco.com; Ermanno Scervino dress, us.ermannoscervino.com.

ART

SOUL&

hen entrepreneur and real estate developer Craig Robins first became interested in reinvigorating 18 neglected square blocks filled with under-utilized commercial buildings in the Miami Design District, he knew getting creative was key if it was to successfully be transformed into a world-class destination. “The neighborhood was founded on the liveliness that results from merging art, architecture, fashion and design,” he tells GRAZIA USA. “From the very beginning, I saw an opportunity to develop a thriving creative community that could contribute to Miami’s cultural fabric and to create a place like no other.”

Robins, the founder and CEO of Dacra, happens to know a thing or two about what nurturing and revitalizing historic sections of the city entails. Years before the Miami native set his sights on the Design District, he helped save large swaths of the Art Deco District in South Beach from the wrecking ball.

With that experience in mind, he began acquiring

properties in the Design District over two decades ago, refurbishing historical structures and putting up new ones. Design showrooms began calling the neighborhood home and a strong focus on arts programming helped attract creatives to the area. The fashionable arrival of brands under the LVMH umbrella to the Design District in 2011 led to an influx of other top-notch retailers setting up shop here. “Luxury brands and leading fashion houses see the Miami Design District as a hub in the U.S. where they can make a statement,” Robins explains.

Well-heeled visitors are certainly listening, and through the years fashionistas have taken advantage of the fact many brands like Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Dior, Gucci and Prada choose the Miami Design District as the place to debut limited-edition collections or introduce exclusive pop-ups throughout the year.

Fine dining is also a huge draw to the Design District — seven restaurants have received recognitions from Michelin.

30 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
DEVELOPER CRAIG ROBINS’ LOVE FOR ALL THINGS CREATIVE INSPIRED HIM TO SAVE THE MIAMI DESIGN DISTRICT

But the core of the area is arguably its arts scene, and it’s a subject that’s close to Robins’ heart. His interest in art, design and architecture turned into a passion when he studied in Barcelona during college. “During that time, I discovered Goya, Picasso, and Dali,” he recalls. “Goya, in particular, had a profound impact on me and my boundless curiosity for art was awakened.”

Later in life, the avid collector’s Design District project became the perfect outlet for his enthusiastic embrace of creative fields, benefitting not only the neighborhood but also the community at large. Robins founded the Anaphiel Foundation, a non-profit that supports arts education and exploration. And the Miami Design District continuously collaborates with an impressive roster of global artists, designers and architects that has ranged from John Baldessari and Al Steiner to Daniel Toole and Emmett Moore.

“Part of what is so great about the neighborhood is that it is always launching or exhibiting new things,” Robins says, noting Germane Barnes was awarded this year’s Miami Design District Annual Commission. Titled Rock | Roll and up through the new year, the multifaceted, multi-scale installation consists of a series of oversized colorful seating capsules that sway back and forth when activated by users. The feathered costumes of Miami Carnival inspired the project’s arresting textures and vibrant hues.

While the Design District has a big impact on visitors who tread its chic streets, the neighborhood leaves a small footprint on the environment. It was the first in the world to achieve LEED ND Gold certification, a symbol of sustainability that’s globally recognized. “This represents our commitment to innovation, sustainability, and responsible use of resources,” Robins notes. “We always envisioned creating a unique mixed-use development that remains healthy, resilient and sustainable for generations.”

So what might be in store for future fans of the area? Robins notes the Design District is “ever-evolving” and will soon welcome the neighborhood’s first Class A office building, “The Ursa.” Arquitectonica designed the structure to include monumental exterior and interior-site specific

artworks and furniture by Daniel Arsham, the founder of art and design firm Snarkitecture and graduate of the Design and Architecture Senior High School (DASH), which is located in the heart of the Design District.

The opening of several new restaurants and retail stores as well as a boutique hotel are also on the horizon.

“The neighborhood combines commerce and culture and the result is something entirely its own,” Robin says.

“Around every corner there is new art, design, engaging programming, shops and fine food. The Miami Design District should be the first stop on anyone’s list when they visit Miami.”

31 GRAZIA USA FALL 2022
FROM THE VERY BEGINNING, I SAW AN OPPORTUNITY TO DEVELOP A THRIVING CREATIVE COMMUNITY THAT COULD CONTRIBUTE TO MIAMI’S CULTURAL FABRIC AND TO CREATE A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER.”

Stay up to date with the best in celebrity fashion and beauty

DESTINATION FOR STYLE INSPIRATION.

YOUR

up for

P FOR OUR STYL E N E ELSW Sign
the weekly style newsletter PAGESIX.COM/STYLE

VERSACE

GRAZIA USA
THE DEATH OF GIANNI VERSACE IN 1997 LEFT THE FATE OF HIS BELOVED BRAND IN THE HANDS OF HIS SISTER DONATELLA, WHO PRESERVED HIS LEGACY WITH THE KIND OF DEDICATION THAT CAN ONLY COME FROM THE HEART

After Gianni

When one thinks of Versace, one might think of the supermodel-filled runways during founder Gianni Versace’s heyday in the ‘90s. One might think of its current face and creative director of the brand, Gianni's sister Donatella Versace. Or, sadly, one might picture the caution tape outside Gianni’s Miami mansion when he was murdered in 1997 at 50 years old by a “spree killer” that rattled the world. 25 years after that tragic day, his legacy still lives on, thanks to the thread that has weaved the house of Versace together since the beginning — family.

Gianni and Donatella were born in Reggio Calabria in southern Italy. They have an older brother, Santo (who would go on to be president of the Versace company) and a sister, Tina, who died at age 12 from a tetanus infection. Fashion bonded the family early on. Their mother, Francesca, was a dressmaker, and it’s reported that Gianni would often work in her shop.

Despite their nine-year age gap, Gianni and Donatella would party together, and Gianni would give his sister fashion advice. He even inspired her to dye her now-signature blonde hair when she was 11 to look like the Italian singer, Patty Pravo.

When Gianni began working under esteemed designers in Milan, Donatella, who studied languages at the University of Florence and earned a degree in Literary Studies, would visit her brother in the country’s fashion capital. He eventually opened his own brand in 1978, and Donatella began honing her eye for design and spearheaded projects for the company. In 1993, Donatella oversaw the children’s line Young Versace and was named head designer of the diffusion label Versus the following year.

Just at the height of his career, dressing supermodels in his now-iconic Medusa print and sexy silhouettes, Gianni was tragically shot on July 15, 1997 outside of his Miami mansion in broad daylight by a fame-crazed killer. With his passing, Donatella inherited a 20 percent stake in the

GRAZIA USA

business and became chief designer, while her eldest brother Santo, who was already serving as president of the company, received 30 percent. Donatella’s daughter, Allegra Versace Beck, was granted a majority stake of 50 percent at just 11 years old. Due to her young age, Donatella was placed in charge of her daughter’s shares until she turned 18.

“By giving half of Versace to my daughter, [Gianni] forced me to take responsibility for the company until she came of age. Without this trick in the will, I might have left the company after his death,” Donatella said in an interview in 2017.

While many attempted to woo Donatella to sell the company, she refused. “Every week, men in suits came to me and said, ‘Sell us the business. None of your family will ever have to work again,’” she said. “What these people were saying scared me, because my brother would not have wanted me to sell a single office chair. To him, the company was family, and you don’t sell family.”

Her designs were not immediately received well when she began. The company also was working through financial difficulties and, as Donatella later revealed to the world, she was dealing with drug issues and entered rehab in 2005.

"I felt for a long time that I had this job because of a tragedy, not because I deserved it,” she said in 2008. “I wanted to succeed for Gianni, because he cared so much for the company and I knew he would have wanted it to carry on. But I was frightened, and I had no confidence. What I knew was Gianni's style, because I had worked with him for 20 years, and I thought that was what people wanted from me, so I tried to follow in his footsteps. But it was not exactly my style."

She explained that she toned down some of the things that were part of the “Versace identity” during her brother’s reign including “bright colors, very revealing clothes and a lot of decoration.”

“It took a lot of courage to get rid of those things, because I was not sure I could do Versace without them, but I found the confidence and I am very pleased I did. My revolution was successful,” Donatella said.

Allegra took her place on Versace’s board in 2011 and

accepted her 50 percent stake in the company at 24 years old. In 2018, Michael Kors Holding Group, now known as Capri Holdings, purchased the Versace brand for over $2 billion. Following the acquisition, the company announced that Donatella would remain on board as design director.

She may have removed or toned down some of Gianni’s signature elements from the line, but she has often paid homage to her late brother with sentimental connections.

For her Spring/Summer 2018 show, Donatella created a tribute collection in honor of the 20th anniversary of Gianni’s death. Donatella closed out the catwalk with Versace’s most beloved supermodels from the 1990s including Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen, who were all wearing gold chainmail reminiscent of the Fall/ Winter 1994 collection.

Since then, the designer has reimagined the brand’s Fall/ Winter 1992 “Miss S and M” collection, with a new iteration of the bondage dress in her Fall/Winter 2019 collection. Donatella catapulted the brand as a red carpet mainstay with celebs from Beyoncé to Doja Cat sporting her designs and helped make history when Google Images was created after Jennifer Lopez wore her plunging jungle-print dress to the 2000 Grammys.

Donatella told the New York Times in 2017, “Over the years, I’ve seen so many homages to Gianni Versace and direct reference to Gianni Versace. But I didn’t have the courage to do it myself. I was always afraid to touch the work of Gianni. I thought I would be criticized: ‘She isn’t

Gianni.’ I thought I was going to fail.”

Over the years people tried to honor the designer through other mediums, like Ryan Murphy, who created The Assassination of Gianni Versace in 2018 as part of his American Crime Story FX anthology series. The Versace family, however, wasn’t supportive of the project and said it “should only be considered as a work of fiction.” (The series was based on Maureen Orth’s 1999 nonfiction novel Vulgar Favors, which the family said was “full of gossip and speculation.”)

“I still get as angry as I did on the first day when people want to make money with lies about Gianni,” Dontella said. “My lawyers tried to file a lawsuit against this television series, but they lost because my brother is a person of contemporary history and therefore has limited personal rights. Why does this TV series about my brother have to come now? The murder was 20 years ago. Can’t people leave Gianni alone?”

The limited series was filmed in Gianni's former Miami Beach mansion, which the family sold in 2000 to telecom entrepreneur Peter Loftin for $19 million. Loftin transformed the space into a boutique hotel, restaurant and luxury event hotspot. It's now owned by the Nakash family, the owners of Jordache, which still runs it as a premiere hospitality establishment.

An icon in her own right, Donatella’s trajectory from Gianni’s muse to fashion’s resident leading lady is even more remarkable when you consider the enormity of her inheritance and the tragedy that placed her at the helm. A clear labor of love, Donatella emerged from her mournful chapter like a phoenix from the ashes.

38 GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV

Natural Habitat

hen I got into my car at San Jose International Airport, the driver, Ron, warned me about two things: the Costa Rican “rollercoaster” and the boa constrictors — the former, a winding mountain pass that some passengers find unsettling, the latter, well, definitely unsettling. The two-hour drive turned out to be perfectly pleasant, with Ron excitedly pointing out local plants, trees and birds along the way. The ride was a great first taste of the famed Costa Rican “Pura Vida” hospitality to come.

Pulling up to Nayara Tented Camp in Fortuna, I spotted the breathtaking Arenal volcano in the distance. It’s frequently obscured by a thick cloud covering — the resort is in the heart of the Costa Rican rainforest, after all — so I was lucky to get such a perfectly clear panoramic view. I found out the best time to have a chance to see the volcano is during the fall rainy season when I visited. This stunning welcome was just the start of what turned out to be an unforgettable getaway.

Part of the Relais & Chateau portfolio, the Nayara Tented Camp, which opened in late 2019 and recently

Wdebuted its latest expansion, is divided into three distinct yet connected experiences: Tented Camp, Nayara Gardens and Nayara Springs (the resort’s adults-only section.) Guests are zipped around on golf carts so they can easily take advantage of everything the 62-acre property has to offer, from the wonderful Mi Cafecito espresso bar for a morning pick-me-up to lunch and dinner at onsite restaurants and evening drinks at the cozy bars. For wellness needs, there are spa facilities, a fitness center and an open-air yoga pavilion.

The team at Nayara Tented Camp makes sure the entire operation is run in an eco-friendly way that honors both the natural surroundings of the resort and the rich Costa Rican culture. Inspired by the luxury safaris offered in other parts of the world, the property reopened this summer with a host of new additions that includes a stunning reception tent; a lobby bar, Henry’s; Ayla, the Mediterraneaninfluenced eatery that’s helmed by Israeli chef Yanir Elnasi; and a relaxing swimming pool surrounded by cabanas and a fire pit.

The Tented Camp is the epitome of luxury eco-tourism, with rooms and suites all featuring a private plunge pool filled with natural thermal water, private decks (an ideal spot to enjoy room service breakfast), indoor/outdoor showers and, of course, those gorgeous unobstructed volcano views.

The two new private residences, Casa Paloma and Casa Diane, can comfortably sleep eight adults and four small children and they come equipped with a fully stocked kitchen, living area, large TV, oversized pool, fire pit, and an outdoor dining area with lounge chairs and umbrellas. There is also a personal concierge on hand to help plan activities, make reservations, and arrange special experiences.

There is no shortage of things to do at Nayara Tented Camp. The property provides daily yoga and meditation sessions and the Tented Camp’s selection of seven hot spring pools nestled in the rainforest is the perfect setting for the bartender on hand to mix up locally inspired cocktails.

GRAZIA USA
NAYARA TENTED CAMP IS REDEFINING ECO-TOURISM WITH ITS DEDICATION TO BOTH LUXURY SERVICE AND PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT

Guests who want to get out and go can choose from a coffee and chocolate tour, a mixology experience, lava field walk, bird watching, horseback riding or even a frog watching night tour. During a nature walk at the nearby Mystic Hanging Bridges, I trekked for two miles over six suspension bridges stretched over the rainforest’s vibrant canopy of trees.

No trip to Costa Rica would be complete without at least a few wildlife sightings, and I was treated to plenty. I witnessed howler monkeys frolicking in the trees as well as a blue jean frog, more birds than I could count and — much to my chagrin — a fuzzy tarantula hiding in a hollow tree trunk. For a less wild way to experience the natural habitat at Nayara Tented Camp, there is an on-site armadillo sanctuary. And nature expert and “Sloth Concierge” Juan Carlos updates guests on the whereabouts of the property’s 15 resident sloths that live in its 1,000 Cecropia trees.

“We are all about luxury and sustainability, as well as the overall experience, which I didn’t find anywhere else on the Latin American continent,” owner Leo Ghitis tells GRAZIA USA. “As a kid I used to camp with my father, but that was really roughing it. I have traveled a lot through Africa and Asia and love the safari and tented camps and found it interesting that there was not really anything like this in Latin America.”

To remedy the issue, Ghitis decided to bring his vision to life despite encountering some big obstacles along the way.

“We came up with this concept based on those African and Asian experiences,” he says. “But those tents are generally built for dry climates so we needed a product that would work in a rainforest with lots of rain and wind. We needed a consistent high-end product.”

Another hurdle was the land itself, which Ghitis explains was purchased eight years ago with an eye toward future use. “That whole mountain had been decimated by cattle ranchers and there was nothing but mud,” he recalls. “I wanted to cry — no butterflies, no birds, no sloths or monkeys, not even grass.”

But Ghitis had this “crazy dream” of bringing the area’s rainforest back to life. “At first, we failed miserably. Then I found an Australian landscape artist who is one of the foremost experts in the world on reforestation. We needed green trees that grow in the rainforest and ended up having to buy another piece of property just to grow them.”

Since the project started, there have been close to 40,000 new trees and plants added to the land that lies near the Arenal Volcano National Park. “We were able to bring it back,” Ghitis says. “It's not a mature rainforest but it’s full of wildlife which is incredibly rewarding and important.”

This focus on eco-friendliness hardly means eschewing

the creature comforts of a five-star resort, however. Nayara Tented camp goes above and beyond when it comes to service, thanks to the friendly staff — many of whom come from the immediate surrounding area.

“We hire a vast majority, 99% of employees, from the local community,” Ghitis explains. “Many have been working on farms or cattle ranches and come to Nayara with limited experience in the service industry. Many have never met anyone outside the local community or any foreigners. So, we provide training, along with growth opportunities for those employees and take care of the communities where we operate.”

The hotel is always at full capacity thanks to those same employees, Ghitis boasts. “We have the best team in the world, and we are very aware of that. We treat everyone as family and in return the hotel does very well.”

In addition to Costa Rica, Nayara also has properties in Panama, Easter Island and Chile with additional locations, including Nayara Residences, to come. As Nayara Tented Camp puts the finishing touches on this phase of the expansion, it’s clear that Ghitis and his dedicated team are on to something — the union of environmental stewardship and tourism at its finest. “Nayara is a sustainability project,” says Ghitis. “If we humans make an effort ,we can reverse the damage done for many years now.”

GRAZIA USA
GRAZIA USA FALL 2022

MOMENT IN

MICHAEL HUTCHENCE IS FOUND DEAD 25 YEARS AGO

ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH BEGINS 20 YEARS AGO

In 1970, three Swiss gallerists, Ernst Beyeler, Trudl Bruckner and Balz Hilt, came together to form an international art fair in Bassel, Switzerland to provide a platform for creators and gallerists to show their work and connect the community. Their efforts were immediately successful from the start. The first year featured 90 galleries and 30 publishers from 10 countries and garnered 16,000 visitors. By the early 2000s, they were ready to expand, and had their sights set on Miami.

Thanks to prominent art collectors in the Miami scene, including Norman Braman, Mera and Don Rubell, Martin Margulies and Rosa and Carlos de la Cruz, Art Basel Miami Beach was the first offshoot of the Swiss-based event. It kicked off in 2002 with 30,000 visitors in attendance to view 160 galleries on display.

20 years later, Art Basel Miami attracts 80,000 visitors and for its big anniversary, it will showcase 283 galleries, with 26 first-time participants. The sunny scene in Miami mixes art with celebrity, where star-studded parties are just as plentiful as the exhibitions. While Art Basel Miami Beach is located within the Miami Beach Convention Center, festivities can be found all over town, after the city created Miami Art Week to coincide with Basel.

Art Basel has since expanded to Hong Kong and just debuted in Paris earlier this fall.

In the mid-1990s, Michael Hutchence, lead singer of Australian rock band INXS and one of the most gifted and charismatic rock stars of his generation, was asked for his thoughts on suicide. “People don’t mind if you kill yourself, they’re quite happy about it,” he said. “It’s a lead story, isn’t it? Well I hope I don’t become a lead story.”

On November 22, 1997, Hutchence became the lead story. His body was discovered by a hotel maid, naked and strangled by his own belt in his room at the Sydney Ritz-Carlton. The man who for 20 years had performed to millions across the world, died alone at 37 years old.

25 years after his sudden death, the story behind how and why Hutchence met his end is still a mystery. The official coroner’s verdict was suicide by hanging, but others close to the singer believe very differently. “There’s three ways Michael could have died,” brother Rhett Hutchence claimed. “Michael was killed, Michael killed himself, or Michael died by accident. And even though I’ve heard so many theories and conspiracies about all three, I don’t think Michael killed himself.”

Like other tragic early rock ‘n’ roll deaths, Hutchence lived fast and soared high, but he was no narcissistic rock ‘n’ roll animal. Friends, family and former bandmates remember him chiefly as a shy, modest man, who, far from hogging the limelight, insisted on INXS being a democracy, a “band of brothers,” as he told one interviewer.

INXS formed in Sydney, Australia, in 1977 with Hutchence, Garry Beers, Kirk Pengilly and brothers Tim, Andrew and Jon Farriss. INXS cut their teeth with years of gigging in Australia’s notoriously rough pub circuit and traveling in the back of a van.

INXS hit America at the same time as MTV –and in 1985 their fifth studio album Listen Like Thieves reached Number 11 in the US charts, with the single “What You Need” becoming a top 5 Billboard smash. Their next album Kick sold 10 million units in the first two years after its release, and yielded four consecutive Billboard Top 10 singles, including their debut Number 1, “Need You Tonight.”

Suddenly INXS were stars… but singer Hutchence was a superstar. The parties grew bigger, the drugs got harder, and the girls became more beautiful. In 1989, Hutchence began dating fellow Australian pop star Kylie Minogue. The romance between the dangerous rocker and the sweetly innocent pop princess made the media go wild.

They broke up after two years and he began dating Danish supermodel Helena Christensen. In 1992 during a date in Copenhagen, Hutchence got into a fight with a taxi driver, who punched the rock star. As he fell, Hutchence struck his head on the road, fracturing his skull.

Hutchence checked himself out of hospital and for weeks refused all medical treatment. When he

finally did see a doctor, he was told that his brain injuries meant that he had permanently lost all sense of smell and taste. “He did not want me to tell anyone,” Christensen said. “Things just got really heavy in his head.”

The incident also permanently altered his personality. The formerly outgoing, curious man eager for new experiences became more withdrawn, untrusting, prone to dark moods, even violence.

He began an affair with TV presenter Paula Yates — and both their relationship and their reputation for abusing drink and drugs made headlines. They had a daughter, Heavenly Hirani Tiger Lily, known as Tiger, in 1996. It was not long before the hard partying, combined with the relentless tabloid pressure and the mood swings brought on by his brain injury, all began to tell on the singer.

When he died, Hutchence had been rehearsing with INXS ahead of the band’s 20th anniversary. He spent an evening with his father and stepmom, and his father Kell Hutchence described him as upbeat and “very happy” that night. In his hotel room, the singer received distressing news from Yates. Her custody hearing for the children she shared with her ex was delayed and she wouldn’t be able to join Hutchence for another few weeks. “He was terribly upset and he said, ‘I don’t know how I’ll live without seeing Tiger,’” Yates recalled. He called her ex, Bob Geldorf, and his manager Martha Troup. He left a message to Troup saying, “I don’t give a fuck anymore. I don’t give a fuck anymore.” He also called his ex-girlfriend Michelle Bennett. Crying, he said he needed to see her and asked her to come over as soon as she could.

Many close to Hutchence refused to believe he could take his own life. An autopsy report found that present in his blood were alcohol, cocaine, Prozac and other prescription drugs, and in her first interview after his death, Yates claimed that his death was more likely the result of autoerotic asphyxiation – the singer pushing his thirst for new experiences a little too far.

“I don’t think he meant to die,” Yates said. “Michael thought suicide was the most awful thing in the world, the most cowardly act. Just a cop out. For a man with a family to think about deliberately dying… he would have just thought that was awful.”

In a tragic coda to their love story, Yates herself was to die three years later in September 2000, of an accidental heroin overdose. Her body was found at home, in the presence of her daughter Tiger, then age 4.

“He was just a beautiful, beautiful boy,” remembered Yates. “He was a miracle. And if we only had him for a little while, we were lucky we had that miracle for a little while.”

GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV

As Art Basel celebrates its 20th year in Miami Beach, GRAZIA USA looks back at defining anniversaries in music, culture, fashion and TV

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS PREMIERES 30 YEARS AGO

Pop open a bottle of Bollinger and raise a toast the odd-ball British comedy Ab Fab’s 30th anniversary! The delightfully delirious BBC sitcom debuted on Nov. 12, 1992, featuring the two horribly unlikeable, yet, highly beloved BFFs, Eddie and Patsy, played by Jennifer Saunders and Joanna Lumley.

The series followed the drunken — and hilarious — antics of the duo as they navigated the London fashion scene from their high-profile jobs. Eddie ran her own PR film and Patsy worked at a fashion magazine, but for the two, it was always champagne o’clock, no matter the occasion. The pair inevitably got themselves into outrageous antics and usually needed rescued by Eddie’s responsible and strait-laced daughter, Saffron (played by Julia Sawalha).

Saunders created the series, which ran for five seasons, with her collaborator Dawn French and won a BAFTA TV Award, an International Emmy, and the hearts of many fans. The quirky comedy somehow made two self-centered, off-kilter, badly-behaved, drug-addled friends, likeable. The cult favorite had such a hold over the years, they teamed up again in 2016 for Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie, where the dysfunctional antics continued, with a few starry cameos from the likes of Kate Moss, Stella McCartney and Jon Hamm.

Unfortunately, they won’t reprise their role again. Sanders said in 2016, she’s “not doing anything more with Ab Fab. That. Is. It.”

No many how many years pass, the dynamic duo will always inspire fans to be, well, absolutely fabulous, sweetie!

GRAZIA USA FALL 2022 TIME

MICHAEL JACKSON RELEASES THRILLER 40 YEARS AGO

It might sound over dramatic to say that one album changed the course of history, but TV and radio were forever altered when the release of Michael Jackson’s sixth solo studio record, Thriller, transformed the racial divide in pop culture.

Before it debuted on Nov. 30, 1982, radio was going through a seismic shift, with more listeners tuning into FM channels focused on specific genres instead of the once-dominate AM stations cranking out mass top 40 hits. It left Black artists excluded from many programs, especially as disco was dying and Black musicians were (many times incorrectly) categorized into that genre. MTV’s presence didn’t help the racial gap. When it launched in 1981, it was first released to homes in white suburbs, and targeted its demographic by only playing videos from white performers.

The first single from Thriller was a duet with Paul McCartney titled “The Girl Is Mine,” a strategic choice and an attempt to get airtime on pop radio stations. When the album dropped three weeks later, it made an unremarkable debut at number 11 on the Billboard charts. The next single, “Billie Jean,” made a more dramatic debut in the ranking, but its video was what made history. For the first time, MTV played a video by a Black artist in heavy rotation on its network.

Next, Jackson released the video for “Beat It,” which was, unsurprisingly, another hit. Finally, on Dec. 2, 1983, the 13-minutelong video for “Thriller” dropped on MTV.

HUBERT DE GIVENCHY OPENS HIS FASHION HOUSE 70 YEARS AGO

The album shot to number 1 and spent the most time there (by a solo artist) at 37 weeks. To this day, Thriller remains the best-selling album of all time with $100 million in sales worldwide and has won eight Grammys. All the while, it changed the course of history for Black artists, shifting the demands of listeners on radio stations, and opening the door for other Black performers’ work to be seen and heard by millions.

To celebrate the 40th anniversary, Sony Music and the estate of Michael Jackson will release Thriller 40, with a double-CD set featuring the original line-up, plus neverreleased tracks that were recorded as Jackson worked on the album.

After working under designers Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong and Elsa Schiaparelli, Hubert de Givenchy created his first collection for his own namesake brand in 1952 and quickly became well regarded — and widely seen — thanks to Audrey Hepburn scooping up pieces to wear in 1954’s Sabrina. Ever since meeting the actress, he designed her most iconic on-screen creations — including the little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s — and forged a friendship so affectionate that they referred to one another as brother and sister.

“It was a kind of marriage,” Givenchy said in 2015 of Hepburn. “Little by little, our friendship grew and with it a confidence in each other. There [was never] any criticism of the other person, no upsets.”

Givenchy designed for many notable stars like Lauren Bacall, Ingrid Bergman, Jacqueline

44 GRAZIA USA

FUNNY FACE HITS THEATERS 65 YEARS AGO

Before Audrey Hepburn would go on to star as the iconic Holly Golightly in 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, she played another character whose fashions would go down in cinematic history. Just like the little black dress, sunglasses and pearls worn in front of the Tiffany & Co. window, the striking Givenchy creations in her 1957 film Funny Face have stood the test of time and become classic outfits still referenced today.

It marked the first time she wore custom looks from Hubert de Givenchy on screen (she wanted to collaborate with the French designer for Sabrina in 1954 but because of time restraints, Hepburn wore samples from the line instead). The one-of-a-kind designs fit the film’s very fashionable premise.

The story follows Hepburn’s character Jo Stockton's transformation from a Greenwich Village bookstore clerk to budding fashion model who jets to Paris to pose for photographer Dick Avery (played by Fred Astaire) and Quality fashion magazine editor Maggie Prescott (Kay Thompson). Like the stylish characters they play, Dick and Maggie were based on real-life fashion figures. Prescott is said to be loosely based on fashion editors Diana Vreeland or Carmel Snow, while Astaire’s Avery was inspired by famed photographer Richard Avedon, who took actual promotional photos seen in the film.

One can’t think of the gorgeous scenes shot in Paris without picturing Jo modeling a red scarf matching her strapless red Givenchy gown as

she glided down the steps of the Louvre. There’s the shot in front of the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel where Jo holds a bundle of balloons in a fit-and-flare black dress with full midi skirt.

The boatneck silhouette of Jo’s wedding dress draws similarities to that of Meghan Markle’s when she wed Prince Harry (also designed by the house of Givenchy), and in an outfit recreated almost as much as Golightly’s, the beatnik black turtleneck, cigarette pants and loafers that Jo does a dance number in still looks as chic today as it did in the ‘50s.

Though the film wasn’t a box office smash, the beauty of its production and costuming was praised when it debuted in a review by the New York Times. “It is reasonable to reckon that you won't see a prettier musical film—or one more extraordinarily stylish—during the balance of this year.”

More than six decades later, that sentiment still rings true.

Kennedy Onassis and Wallis Simpson. His mastery of the sack dress and princess-style creations was so great that he started showing a month after the Parisian collections, drawing people back to the city after the traditional fashion week schedule.

He maintained his influence throughout the ‘70s and ‘80s until he retired in 1995. The house has been led by a slew of talented names in the industry ever since. There was Givenchy’s successor John Galliano, followed by Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald,

Riccardo Tisci, Clare Waight Keller and most recently, Matthew M. Williams who became Givenchy's creative director in June 2020.

The house is still a magnet for today’s biggest stars, like Beyoncé, Cate Blanchett, and Emma Stone, the latter of which wore the brand when she won her Oscar in 2011. In two of the most publicized weddings in recent history, Kim Kardashian (who wed Kanye West in 2014) and Meghan Markle (who married Prince Harry in 2018), both chose Givenchy for their big days.

45 GRAZIA USA FALL 2022

obsessions

GRAZIA USA VOLUME XV
WHAT WE’RE LOVING RIGHT NOW 1. CHANEL Vanity, $4,450, (800) 550-0005 2. Belmond Maroma reopening Spring 2023, belmond.com 3. Hermès Hermesistible lip oil, $55, hermès.com 4. Celine by Hedi Slimane dress, $10,900, celine.com 5. B&B Italia Le Bambole Armchair, $5,923, shop.bebitalia.com 6. Koral Jules Rib Sports Bra - Electric Lime, $66, Koral Herea Rib High Rise Legging - Electric Lime, $88, koral.com 7. Loewe Inflated Rectangular Sunglasses in Ink Blue, $360, loewe.com 2. 1. 5. 4. 3. 6. 7.

Next

DYLAN HOWARD

& PUBLISHER

Major Food Group is making big moves in Miami with a handful of splashy new openings all around South Florida.

47 GRAZIA USA FALL 2022 GAZETTEGRAZIA The
CHAIRMAN,
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
OFFICER
MARIA ELIASON EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ILARIA SVITIC CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER KOKO DRECHSLER SALES DIRECTOR, BEAUTY PRIYA NAT SALES DIRECTOR, HOME & LUXURY CAMILLA JONES VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS RICHARD VALLEJOS OPERATIONS MANAGER INTERNATIONAL FRANCE, SPAIN, SWITZERLAND, UK GUGLIELMO BAVA MANAGING DIRECTOR JOSEPHINE HANGA PARTNERSHIP MANAGER 100 BROADWAY, 11TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10005 PHONE (917) 231-8680 EMAIL CONTACT@GRAZIAUSA.COM SUBSCRIPTIONS EMAIL SUBSCRIPTIONS@GRAZIAUSA.COM WWW.GRAZIAMAGAZINE.COM/US/SUBSCRIBE GRAZIA is a trademark registered and owned by Mondadori Media S.p.a. MONDADORI MEDIA S.p.a. Chief Executive Officer Carlo Mandelli; Vice President & Artistic Director Carla Vanni; Managing Director International Business Daniela Sola; Head of International Platforms Marne Schwartz; International Marketing Manager Fashion & Design Francesca Brambilla; International Advertising Manager Daniella Angheben; Photos & Rights Manager Melania Landini For further details, please write to graziainternational@mondadori.com © 2022 Mondadori Media S.p.a. All rights reserved. Published by Pantheon Media Group, LLC, with the permission of Arnoldo Mondadori Editore S.p.a. and Mondadori Media S.p.a. Reproduction in any manner in any language in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited. Advertising inquiries: sales@graziausa.com. Press inquiries: press@graziausa.com. General inquiries: contact@graziausa.com. For syndication, email contact@graziausa.com.
On The MENU

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.