JAPAN 101 A STUDENT GUIDE TO THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN
日の出の地への訪ね方
Editorial This magazine is aimed at young individuals who are about to embark on an adventure to the land of the rising sun. The motivation to release this collection of articles is to contest the abundance of flavourless, touristy information you can find on the internet and generic travel guides. We aim to give you insight on a more earthly level. By avoiding critique of the flaws of this thrilling country, we want to emphasize that the faults are as big a part of the experience as the wonderful details. Written by a Finnish exchange student formerly situated in Japan, these articles are a subjective and informal take on the things that make Japan a place worth visiting.
This issue is commissioned by the Finnish Institute of Cross-cultural Education. For more information about our organization, visit www.fice.fi
(ni) 2
Contents 6
Services
12
Hiking
18
People
22
Profiles
30
(R)amen
Articles, photography and graphic design by Emil Shaw.
(san) 3
東京 (shi) 4
Tokyo (go) 5
Services (Sābisu)
(roku) 6
サ
ー ビ
サ
ー ビ
Konbini The equivalent of a convenience store, except that it is so much more. Coming from a country where the capital city has two 24-hour grocery stores, this was the most convenience I’ve ever experienced. Not once did I have to resort to drinking warm beer, or carrying the whole nights supply with me. Now I understand why the Japanese(men included) only carry purses. Everything is available on the road. Konbinis are not just a place to buy a cold beer, but they offer surprising services. Lots of konbinis have a photocopier, a printer and a fax machine. You will often find an ATM to withdraw cash and every konbini has a toilet, free of charge. The most peculiar feature is one you will have to use even if you don’t want to. In order to pay your bills, you have to take them to a konbini and pay them there. You would think that in one of the most technologically advanced countries you could pay your bills online and use your credit card to buy a meal. Silly expectations, I suppose. Whether it be a Seven Eleven, Lawson or FamilyMart, konbinis are always located inside a walking distance. Working late and in need of cup noodles? You’ll be back in 15 minutes. The konbini will provide the boiled water. Some even offer ties for businessmen who can’t make it home in time to change their clothes.
(shichi) 7
“And it ¥100 shop You might have heard stories about these magical places. After konbinis, these are the stores that you will frequent the most. This hoarders paradise will pull you in even if you don’t need to buy anything. At least that’s what you tell yourself before you enter. It is amazing how your perception about needing an item changes when it is practically free. Not very many people possess the willpower to pass up on the chance to buy a lifelike nigiri sushi phone case when it’s only ¥100. The amazing thing about ¥100 shops is that if you go in looking for a specific home appliance/stationary product/whatever, nine times out of ten you will find that item. And it will be stupid cheap.
will
be
Gachapon
stupid
cheap.”
Widely known as “gacha gacha machines”, these onomatopoeic toy dispensers can be found outside any supermarket. They are not specific to Japan, but naturally you will find the weirdest toys here. From llama/gorilla hybrids to cats with a slice of bread around their face. Gachapon machines are the epitome of the overwhelming amount of useless, yet oh-so-necessary crap that we love to surround ourselves with.
(hachi) 8
(kyū) 9
(jū) 10
小杉家 Kosugi house
(jū ichi) 11
oh god so many shrines (jĹŤ ni) 12
Hiking
ハイキング (haikingu)
A
fun fact about Japan is that the population of 127 million people lives in about 27% of the country’s area. That leaves 73% of pretty much uninhabitable, mountainous area. That makes for a massive contrast when you leave a bustling metropolis like Tokyo or Osaka and head to the mountains to take in the tranquility of Japanese nature. Hiking in Japan is easy, because you won’t have to travel far to find mountains to climb. It is virtually impossible to find a place that does not have mountains in the horizon. There are also extensive routes and paths built on most of them. Some tourist-heavy routes might cost something and there might be temples that you want to visit while hiking, so keep some cash with you at all times. Other things you might want to take on a hike are: water, onigiris(a delicious and compact source of energy) and bells for some reason. You will notice many native hikers are jingling while they walk, because they have tied bells
to their gear. Maybe it is to make their presence known to surrounding animals, or maybe it’s just for the bell of it (pun intended).
“You will notice many native hikers are jingling while they walk” You might have already scared yourself straight by googling all the different insects that will try to kill you in a Japanese forest. Try to ignore your instincts and go hiking anyways. The fact is(not actually a fact), you are three times more likely to get run over by a Tokyo drifter on Shibuya crossing than being bitten by a mukade(centipede) or stung by a giant hornet! Spoken from experience, the most damage you’ll get will probably be from falling into a bush after being scared by a monkey.
(jū san) 13
Yakushima (jĹŤ yon) 14
Island (jĹŤ go) 15
Takaoka (jĹŤ roku) 16
Kojo Park (jĹŤ nana) 17
People
(hito)
(jū hachi) 18
人
人 W
hen it comes to Japanese stereotypes, they are stereotypes for a reason. Whether it be a rice eating school kid with a huge backpack, a giggling girl in a Purikura booth or an ancestrally over proud businessman, these are all profiles you will witness in your day-today life. One of the most prominent attributes of Japanese people is their humility. It is such an oversaturated part of their culture that you will find yourself accompanying every “thank you” with a nod of your head long after you have left the country. You say “arigatou gosaimasu” (thank you so much) or “sumimasen” (excuse me) so many times a day that eventually it is abbreviated down to “sssss”. As a matter of fact, 80% of communication in Japan is accomplished by hissing and nodding at one another. You’ll see.
“80% of communication in Japan is accomplished by hissing.”
It is a wonderful feeling when everyone is overly positive, helpful and accepting. Everything you say will get a laugh or an amazed “eeeeehhh?!” People will put your western way of thinking on a pedestal. It ceases to be so wonderful when you realize that it’s all they will project and you will rarely get a 100% honest reaction when things are not all rosy. Japanese people are too humble and polite to criticize or offend a guest. After all, that is exactly what you are to them. But hey, I ain’t complaining! After spending enough time in Japan, you will realize that being a foreigner is fine and dandy, but in the long run your opinion might change. Sure, being a “gaijin”(outsider) is your “get-out-of-jail-free card” in many a situation, but for some it may not be worth never getting fully accepted as a part of the community. (jū kyū) 19
花火 Hanabi
(ni-jū) 20
(ni-jĹŤ ichi) 21
Profiles
プロフィール (purofiru)
(ni-jū ni) 22
隆一郎 Ryuichiro is a 23-year-old art student from Toyama University. He studies oil painting and dedicates his time and money on large format pieces. Ryu-san is one of the most eclectic and alternatively fashionable students on campus. You can’t miss him. He does not speak very fluent English but makes up for it with his will to get to know you and his taste for beer.
(ni-jū san) 23
せき Seki Haraguchi is a 25-year-old Kobe native, schooled in Takaoka and now living in Tokyo. While based in Takaoka, he founded his own clothing label OBAKE. He is also one of the members of the hip hop group Tha Omedetaz. Seki-san’s bedroom/studio/lounge could only be described as a museum of monstrous paraphernalia. Looking at the sea of toys, magazines, comic books, vinyl records and other collectibles, it becomes clear that he is absorbed with niche subcultures of different forms of art. Seki-san is an exceedingly welcoming host. When he is not working on his graphic design, he will be driving you around, showing the city, introducing you to people and talking about music.
(ni-jū yon) 24
アミ Ami-san is an extremely friendly and kind-natured Takaoka local. She has a somewhat rowdy sense of humor for a Japanese woman. Ami is always ready to go out for an evening at an izakaya restaurant. Never deterred by having to go to work the next morning at the butchers. She seems to be forever young, hence not revealing her actual age. Ami-san is without a doubt one of the most easily approachable people in the entire Toyama prefecture.
(ni-jū go) 25
シバ Yuta Shiba is a 26-year-old local from Takaoka. He is the owner and bartender of Hinode(sunrise), a very small yet cosy bar on the backstreets of Otemachi, close to the Takaoka Railway Station. Shiba-san also works as a DJ. His bar is full of vinyl records that he plays seamlessly while you are sipping on a Highball(whiskey and soda). English is not Shiba-sans strong point either, but that won’t stop him from bonding with you over music. Especially if you are into hip hop.
(ni-jū roku) 26
健志郎 21-year-old Kenshirou Ohtu is originally from Kyoto but has moved to Takaoka to study vehicle design. He is known around campus as being slightly crazy and impulsive, yet good natured. As a hard-working student, he will sleep in his Mini car after working a long night, just to be closer to school in the morning. Ken-san is eager to take care of you as a guest and will help integrate you into the local stream of life. He is a social butterfly and through him you will meet a lot of good people.
(ni-jū nana) 27
Mr. Cat (ni-jĹŤ hachi) 28
Neko-san
猫さん
(ni-jū kyū) 29
“There
for
a
is
no
small-talk
ramen (san-jū) 30
place
in
joint.”
(R)amen
ラーメン (Rāmen)
T
his is it. The reason why you came to this ass-backwards country in the first place. The moment that the first steamy spoonful of pork broth enters yours body, you know the hangover you’ve been building all night drinking piss-cheap malt liquor, will hardly make a presence. Everyone in Japan knows that the best ramen is found from the smallest and dirtiest of restaurants. The less they speak English - the better. The first time you step into a ramen joint(or any restaurant for that matter), keep it simple. Both you and everyone in the restaurant know why you are there. And it’s not to impress the locals with your newly acquired, Japanese for dummies -vocabulary. Greet them with a nod or by saying “konnichiwa”(good day) or “konbanwa”(good evening). Then go sit in front of the counter, onto one of
the seven seats in the restaurant. Take note of the other customer who are devouring their bowls of ramen with concentration. There is no place for small-talk in a ramen joint, so don’t bring your stupid western social manners into the mix. Slurp your noodles and broth down your gullet as loudly and fast as you can and get the hell ‘outta there! Now back to your order. When the server, a.k.a. the cook, a.k.a. the owner is ready to take your order, raise one finger and say “ramen”. Like I said, your not here to go through their menu. Know what you want when you go in, because you’re essentially already on your way out. However, if you want to gain some respect from the staff, you should also order “nama biiru”(draft beer), because apparently Japanese people like to watch westerners drink.
(san-jū ichi) 31
Asahi Breweries aims to satisfy its customers with the highest levels of quality and integrity, while contributing to the promotion of healthy living and the enrichment of society worldwide.
Takaoka
(san-jĹŤ yon) 34
Daibutsu
(san-jĹŤ go) 3
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