TREND FORECAST A/W 2013
MONOCHROME
K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend evolves around black, white, greys, strong graphics, negative space and saturated images. S E E N I N: It is prominent in advertising, graphics, typography and clothing. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: The theme represents a more stripped back creative direction and it is becoming graphically appealing alongside urbanisation and industrial trends. It has also been suggested that the trend may be a reaction after the boom of the novel ‘50 Shades of Grey’.
BOXED IN K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend incorporates cells and grids of repetitive and varying sizes. S E E N I N: It has been seen in past art movements and up and coming works, editorial composition, concept exhibitions and stores, and visual merchandising. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: Influence and inspiration has undoubtedly been taken from the Cubism movement and Bauhaus modernism, especially the work of Paul Klee whose distinct style relates itself to the creative direction of boxes and cells. In the autumn of 2013 the Tate Modern in London is hosting the artist’s first exhibition in the UK.
HANDCRAFT K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend takes everyday items and familiar imagery and alters them through dissecting, deconstructing, distorting, interweaving, stripping back, hand rendering and multi layering. The results have an organic aesthetic, with many featuring hand written or painted aspects. S E E N I N: Examples of this trend have featured heavily in publications and advertising, but prior to this were seen to their best effect in classic art, street art and more individual books such as zines. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: Today we live in an image driven world where photography as a hobby is becoming increasingly popular. For this reason aesthetics must be targeted at a much more visually intelligent audience. This is giving way to a new realism in which creative direction must hold creative narratives and be visually imaginative.
URBAN ROOTS K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend centres around monochrome imagery, bold lettering, strong contrasts, urban perspectives and striking photographs. S E E N I N: The cyber industrial print and graphics can be found prominantly in editorial work and advertising, but draws roots from street art and is easily transferable to retail theatre and brand signage. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: The recent collaboration between Opening Ceremony and DKNY has seen the brand reissue streetwear pieces from its archived collections, putting the spotlight firmly on the urban trends of the early 90s. This has seen the style translate into a strong print and graphic trend that incorporates the same colour palette and contrast impact, but that also references futuristic elements which hint at the trend’s progression.
RECONSTRUCTED REALITY K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend is layered and creative, constructing new images from old in either a digital or collage manner often with hand drawn or fantasy aspects. The imagery is ruptured and manipulated. S E E N I N: It has been seen throughout editorials and advertising. It adds a personal, well-considered aspect to a brands’ perception which is desirable. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: The current take on this trend lends itself well to surrealist art, brought into context by the current Dali exhibition at the Pompidou in Paris. It allows brands to be more experimental with their advertising, potentially creating something different from the conventional graphics. Alongside this, the current ‘Everything Was Moving’ exhibition at the Barbican, London featured work including that of Boris Mikhailov which displays many of the same qualities.
THE STORYTELLER K E Y F E A T U R E S: Within this trend there is graffiti, pen scibbles, illustrated drawings, chalkboard writing, watercolour images, cartoons, ink, freehand lettering and customisation. S E E N I N: It has been seen throughout magazine articles, city walls, visual merchanding and signage, with it featuring significantly in 2013 trade shows and the marketing alongside these. It is currently being used to its best strength in music campaigns and editorials. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: This trend has come from the popularised idea of customisation and personalisation. Within such a saturated market, consumers are looking for ways to create something that is truly personal to them. As a reaction to this, brands are looking to distinguish themselves as companies that relate to the consumer on a more personal level, with the creative nature of this trend appealing to the current visually stimulated audience. The energy of freehand typography has a fresh appeal that translates well for apparel, and many brands are referring to it as logo alternatives, single statements or over photos text to update the tee.
MATTE BLACK K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend embraces matte black finishes, industrial factory settings, painted brick, metal grates, steel bars, chains, cattle hooks, cages and piping. S E E N I N: This trend was present throughout global trade shows, and features strongly in concept stores, one off boutiques and flagship stores where appropriate to the brand. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: Industrial visual merchandising relates well to the urban graphic and print trend, which looks to the early 90s for inspiration. Streetwear is becoming ever more important on worldwide catwalks, with monochrome adding the urban element and this translating well into retail theatre. Emerging from the 1990s clubland trend spotted at the ‘Way Out West’ festival in Sweden, the aesthetic is very graphically focused, with sharp lines and strong shapes contextually referencing the early 90s. This visual merchandising trend is a celebration of everything urban and industrial.
ENCASED K E Y F E A T U R E S: This trend centres around compartmentalised minimalism. Examples include that of individual garments in troph-esque cabinets, framing, minimalist well-spaced displays and more innovative methods of compartmentalising such as circular shelving. Products are displayed as art rather than in a clustered conventional shop environment. S E E N I N: It has been seen in concept stores internationally, and featured heavily in the visual merchandising of the trade shows exhibition of 2013. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: From May to August 2012 the Barbican in London hosted the biggest Bauhaus exhibition in the UK for over 40 years. This undoubtedly had an influence on this visual merchandising trend, as it epitomises the modernist view of function before form and simplicity of design.
PERSONAL TOUCH K E Y F E A T U R E S: Within this visual merchandising trend we have seen cotton reels, wooden beams, wardrobes, stickers, books, leather, kitsch fabrics, magazine cutouts, keys, vintage suitcases and bottles. S E E N I N: It has been seen in trade show exhibitions, concept stores, low-tech boutiques and art spaces. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: This trend is an indirect response to technology and globalisation. In a recession it is necessary for smaller brands to look for more realistically affordable ways of marketing which in turn leads to more creative responses. Consumers react well to the idea of a more personalised environment as art and creativity is appealing to the visually stimulated audience. The handcraft retail theatre trend allows experimentation, relating back to the arts and crafts movement of the early 20th century, which was similarly in response to industrial progression.
RETURN OF THE
GENTLEMAN K E Y F E A T U R E S: The season’s tailoring feautures sharp cuts alongside the return of the 1920s gentleman, with doublebreasted jackets and collar pins holding a place in most collections. However, fabrics and prints are more experimental and flamoyant, with tartans, velvets, silks and tweeds reinventing the classic suit. S E E N I N: Examples of this trend were seen at Moschino Uomo, Alexander McQueen, Kenzo, Phillip Lim, Etro and Lou Dalton. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: The 1920s influence can be linked to the release of the 20’s classic ‘The Great Gatsby’ starring Leonardo Dicaprio. However, the flamboyant fabrics and bold combinations can be linked to the coming ‘Punk: From Chaos to Couture’ Costume Institute exhibition at New York’s Met Museum. Arguably, some may also contectually reference the style of David Bowie, prompted by the long awaited exhibtion beginning in May at the V&A.
K E Y F E A T U R E S: In terms of sports detailing, collections feature pulled up socks, two dominant stripes, quilted jumpers, hoodies and leather. Colours have either been kept monochrome and simple, or feature neon shades and foiled areas. Shaping has been kept square and structured, incorporating sporty contrast stripes, slogans, minimal colour blocking, authenticstyle branding and oversized logos. S E E N I N: Examples of this trend were seen at Tim Coppens, Jonathon Saunders, Rhude, Lou Dalton, Kenzo, Neil Barrett, Calvin Klein, Issey Miyake and Raf Simmons. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: Originally emerging from the skate trend seen at global trade shows, this trend borrows a strong design aesthetic from vintage sportswear and archive pieces. Many designers this season have looked to their past achives to pull styles that are then reworked with fresh colour blocking and clean graphics. Lines and shapes are sharper and stronger, bringing the look up to date.
SPORTS DETAILING
GRAPHIC NEGATIVES K E Y F E A T U R E S: Clothing graphics are in muted colours this season but are just as striking in terms of composition and scale. Some are digital photography prints whilst others are of op art, 60s resemblance. S E E N I N: It has been seen in the collections of Viktor & Rolf, Neil Barrett, Etro, Givenchy and Costume National. O R I G I N A T E D F R O M: Contextually, the current Man Ray exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery has undoubtedly had an influence on many collections for A/W 2013 however subtle the link.
TED BAKER BRAND APPLICATION
CONSUMER PROFILE
CURRENT MARKETING • Ted Baker’s approach to marketing is driven by word of mouth and off the wall campaigns that convey the brand’s witty sense of humour and focus on consumer experience. This already sets the brand apart because they avoid the convention avenues of advertising. Competitions and interactive media stunts are projected via social media sites, building up an audience through an easily updated platform. Online competitions are seasonal, alongside in-store giveaways such as football cards for the world cup and Easter bunny chocolate hotpots. Their approach to marketing employs engaging visuals, witty giveaways, digital initiatives and unique events. • With the brand representing an experience rather than just a retail store, discounts are given on treatments at the grooming stations or nail salons, furthering the consumer experience and fuelling the word of mouth buzz. They connect with consumers on an intellectual level as well, introducing new literature and artists into their giveaways. • Ted has been created as a persona with all forms of marketing relative to what ‘Ted’ would do. This maintains a consistent voice and attention to detail that consumers relate well to. • The brand believes that location, social context and how they respond to these can be more important than magazine advertising and celebrity endorsement, which is why their retail theatre and clever campaigns stands them apart. • Look-books and short fashion films are created to showcase collections, although these are never fed into mainstream advertising and feature only their online platforms and in stores.
CURRENT VISUAL MERCHANDISING • Product merchandising and trend is dictated by Head Office as with the majority of brands, but the store environment is relative to location, making each one different. The Sheffield store is based around the concept of iron works, whereas the Nottingham store references Sherwood Forest and Robin Hood folklore. With each store being so individual, the retail theatre in each a major point of interest and a large part of the consumers’ experience. • The retail theatre is often playful and witty with a fantasy element; examples include dining table layouts at the cash desk, sweet parlours and comedy hero themed windows. However, alongside this Ted Baker retains an element of luxury, with extravagant fabrics, light fittings and furniture; crushed velvet seats, dark wood and draped fabrics make the environment similar to that of the affluent male’s bachelor pad. Ted Baker’s talent lies in being able to tie the two features aesthetics together to create a welcoming yet inspiring environment. • Ted Baker’s retail environments always have the customer in mind, with the London store providing a barbers, a concierge service, an in-house tailor and a shoe shine service. It is these added extras that make the store a retail experience rather than a shop, keeping the marketing strong through word of mouth and media buzz. • With a BCSC Design of the Year award it is apparent that Visual Merchandising is an important part of Ted Baker’s brand identity.
KEY COLOURS FOR THE SEASON
TAILORING
Tailoring is an important part of Ted Baker’s product line. We suggest that suit and blazer designs be brought up to date with experimental lining of punk-reminiscent tartan, silk of bold colours or strong monochrome prints. This is a more subtle way of incorporating the menswear trends whilst still remaining consistent with the brand’s existing image. The brand takes pride in attention to detail, therefore we suggest handkerchief lines of the suggested prints and various bold, extravagant colours be sold alongside the suit line. The double-breasted suit is a design that must feature in the Autumn/Winter product line, with collar pins sold alongside as an add on product.
HANDCRAFT To tie in the trend of handcraft, we propose that each store incorporates the visual merchandising trend of handcraft into their retail theatre, but interprets this in ways relevant to location. One way this could be integrated is with reconstructed wallpaper. In the Nottingham store characteristics like Sherwood forest and Robin Hood would be used as well as keeping a green theme throughout. Ted Baker believes that location is as important as any other marketing tool. Another way to suggest personalisation is to have handwritten cardboard label on products with the writing ‘with love from Ted’. The brand use Ted as a persona therefore this idea works nicely with an already established brand value. We have continued this with the idea of having tailor related quotes on the back of each changing room door in order to engage with the customer whilst also remaining consistent with Ted Baker’s witty tone of voice.
ENCASED Both the creative directional trend of boxes and the visual merchandising trend of encased products can be easily integrated into Ted Baker’s current branding and originality of retail theatre. We propose that ways of presenting products other than on hangers and flat shelving be used. Garments such as shirts or jumpers could be stacked within book shelves among the books, embracing the intellectual tone of the brand whilst continuing the creative nature of the retail environment. Within Menswear Ted Baker has a strong accessories sector which presents the ideal opportunity to harness this trend. We envisage stacks of vintage suitcases with the top one open and products such as bow ties and suit handkerchiefs inside. Watches and cuff links could be arranged in open old-style letterboxes, continuing the visual tone of individuality that Ted Baker is so well known for.
CREATIVE MARKETING Ted Baker is known for its creative marketing methods and strong focus on para-social relationships formed between ‘Ted’ and the consumer. With the brand avoiding conventional methods of advertising and marketing, we propose to use interactive methods to get the audience communicating with the brand.
One idea is to have an a suit customisation feature projected over social media platforms to introduce to consumers the concept of prints and fabrics in the tailoring trend . This will allow Ted Baker customers to experiment with the suit, lining and piping colours and prints. This could further develop into another service that Ted Baker could offer, strengthening the idea of it being a lifestyle brand. Another proposed idea is for consumers to be able to take their own creative pieces into store and have them displayed in various ways, for example as wallpaper or on lampshades. These could be drawings, paintings, poems, letters; any form of self-expression. This relates to ‘The Storyteller’ trend whilst also reflecting Ted Baker’s quality of being an original brand for the people. Ted Baker’s visual merchandising and retail theatre is known for being unique to the brand and to various branches, so why not allow the consumer to be involved?
SPOT THE INNOVATORS BY DAY... • Weinmeisterstrasse A thriving area of independent boutiques, concept stores and hidden galleries, perfect for the creative minded individual. With well-known tastemaker stores such as Do you read me?, Weekday and Acne this area is worth a visit even if it is just to soak up the atmosphere from a café window; try Kaffeemitte, a firm favourite for the creative crowd. • Fountain of Youth The Michelberger Hotel is situated across the road from Warschauer Platz and is a popular stay for creative and fashion folk due to its desirable location and original take on the Berlin experience. The café within the hotel is a social hub full of writers and bloggers, with its laid back atmosphere and welcoming environment providing the perfect place to relax and socialise. A handillustrated ‘Book of Booze’ features on every table, the lampshades are magazine collages and there is an array of vintage suitcases and coo coo clocks that line the walls. It is the perfect hide out for the trend setter to recharge. • Friedrichstrasse For the more upmarket experience, this area is full of designer boutiques and department stores. For a break in the window shopping stop off at one of the many sushi and Vietnamese restaurants that are situated here. • Stadmitte Window watch from a quiet bakery or engage in relaxed conversation in one the areas many coffee shops. This is the ideal area to soak up Berlin’s everyday culture away from the hustle and bustle of main Alexanderplatz. • Charlottenberg A culturally diverse area of Berlin, here you will find vintage warehouses where you pay by weight, antique shops and authentic Turkish restaurants.
TIPS... • Validate your transport ticket before travelling • Restaurants stop serving food at 10/10.3 • Clubs do not tend to open until 12 • Watch out for cycle lanes, they tend to be on most Berlin roads
CITY WRITING
BERLIN
IF YOU WANT TO BE A TOURIST... • Brandenburg Gate A beautiful example of Greek Revival architecture. Lit up at night, the gate is one of Germany’s best known landmarks and most romantic settings. • Berlin Wall Eastside Gallery Wrap up warm in the winter and take inspiration from the Wall’s fading murals and poignant messages. Don’t let the word gallery deceive you, this won’t be what you expect. • Holocaust Memorial A shocking yet eye-opening view into the lives of Holocaust victims, this memorial stands haunting and intimidating but leaves you with a sense of calm remorse.
SPOT THE INNOVATORS BY NIGHT... • Cookies and Cream Club Situated in Friedrichstrasse, this is a restaurant by day and a well hidden club by night. There are rooms to suit most tastes alongside a cinema room, nail bar and face decoration area. There is a surreal atmosphere and a cool crowd. • Alternative Bar Crawl Not for the faint-hearted, this bar crawl takes you around the less popularised bars of Berlin, introducing you to local culture and interesting people. • Watergate Located in Kreuzberg, this club is known across Europe for its promising DJ line-up and notoriously cool crowd. The bouncers are very selective and it is often difficult to get into, but once over this hurdle it is said to be an unrivalled experience. • Trade shows If you are visiting Berlin during fashion week, be sure to take advantage of all after party invitations that come your way. This is a wonderful chance to spend time with likeminded industry creatives whilst enjoying everything the nightlife has to offer.