Final by Emily_Wright_

ASHIONMATTERS

Alexander McQueen &Marks and Spencer

The Now

The Then

&The Other

EMILY WRIGHT N0432548

MODULE LEADER: LUCY NORRIS MODULE: VISUAL AWARENESS FASH10105

CONTENTS

Introduction The Now 3. Alexander McQueen 5. Marks and Spencer

The Then 6. Alexander McQueen 7. Marks and Spencer

The Other 8. Alexander McQueen 9. Marks and Spencer

INTRODUCTION This report will look at Alexander McQueen and Marks and S p e n c e r, s p l i t into 3 sections of ‘The Now’, ‘The Then’ and ‘The Other’. Going into the similarities and differences between these two brands and whether being from the high street or designer market makes a difference to how these are received in some opinions.

THENOW

Alexander McQueen

Fig.1 Alexander McQueen, more obviously before Lee McQueen himself died, was known for his shows being original and always had a motif. Shows were often slated and maybe misunderstood by the press; however, they never missed a show due to this. He seemed to use his catwalk shows as experiments and because of the controversy, it was a platform that was a guaranteed audience. Because of this, it was a chance to experiment with new technologies. In S/S 1999, McQueen famously used the model Shalom Harlow to stand in a clean white A-line dress to then be spray painted by two robotic arms on the catwalk. The majority of the controversy over McQueen’s choices when making these ‘experiments’ in shows, was the speculation that he was exploiting women. With Shalom Harlow being sprayed whilst standing on a rotating platform, Harlow herself described the experience as having a ‘relationship’ with the robots and it “became this like aggressive sexual experience in some way… Is that the act of a human being being created, the sexual act? Is it the act of, you know, the Big Bang, if you will, that violence and that chaos and that surrender that takes place?” (Harlow, 2011, Met Museum) McQueen then used robots in a completely different way in his S/S 2010 Plato’s Atlantis collection, when they were used to film the show on the stage, for the footage to then

play live to online viewers. McQueen also used this show, along with Lady GaGa to premier her new single ‘Bad Romance’. This is an example of two very influential people to the public using each other to their benefits. In fact, so many of Lady GaGa’s fans wanted to hear her new single that the webpage couldn’t cope with the large amount of demand, causing it to crash and therefore McQueen fans missed the latest collection. Although the plan didn’t unfold the way it was supposed to, the scaffolding was all in place for it to happen and it shows another way in which efforts were made to stay on their technology toes. This is now something that is very common with catwalks and McQueen was one of the main drivers. Another example of McQueen using technology on the catwalk was in A/W 2006 when a hologram of Kate Moss was used to in the show. Apparently, “McQueen projected the image on the stage in tribute to Moss, who was then lying low after being caught in a cocaine scandal six months earlier.” (Daily Mail Reporter, 2011, Daily Mail Online) Kate Moss is someone who has stayed with the brand through the years. A good friend of Lee McQueen and wearing Sarah Burton’s designs to this day. Kate first walked for McQueen in VOSS 2001, and at first thought she agreed with the critics view on how women were portrayed, in a Harper’s

THENOW

Alexander McQueen

Bazaar May 2011 interview said he “gave women power… While letting them be fragile and vulnerable at the same time” (Moss, 2011, Harper’s Bazaar) Before she passed away Isabella Blow played a massive part in the brands life. She was working at Vogue when she discovered McQueen himself at his graduation show at Central Saint Martins. She then became very close to the designer and was always involved in the growth of the company. After all, without her, it is debatable whether the brand would have flourished in the same way. Isabella herself came with a well-known reputation, and as she was a constant stakeholder in the brand, her kudos became part of the brands foundation. She described McQueen as “a wild bird, and he made clothes fly” (Blow, McQueen and I, 2011, Channel 4 Documentary). In more recent years, McQueen has been associated with a different calibre of stakeholders. Very famously, Sarah Burton (Current Creative Director) designed the new princess, Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. By being chosen for a royal wedding, Burton made a name for herself, to prove that she is taking the brand over smoothly from Lee, however it will remain unknown whether this is something Lee would have done himself.

Fig.2

Fig.3

THENOW

Marks and Spencer

Marks and Spencer, particularly over the past 18 months have made huge efforts to ‘up their game’ in terms of technology within their customer experiences. For Valentine’s Day 2012, they have a billboard which contains augmented reality for passers-by with the downloaded app. When the viewer holds their camera over the billboard in Waterloo Station, the model springs to life, showing the viewer ‘valentine’s inspiration’ with different available lingerie and bouquets. (The Stories Team, 2012, Marks and Spencer online) This is not a particularly new technology, as other brands have been using augmented reality for a few years now, however this is new for Marks and Spencer and is a big jump from anything they are used to. The brand has only made progress and improved on things such as using new technology since Rainey Kelly Campbell Roalfe took control of advertising in 2005, involving Twiggy, Erin O’Connor, Laura Bailey and Noemie Lenoir which Marks and Spencer then claimed that clothes were “flying out of the store”. (Pearlman, 2005, Brand Republic) This changed Marks and Spencer’s image, and in my opinion made

Fig.4

them realize that they can target their clothes to a new audience and therefore make the effort to use new technologies. By getting stakeholders into adverts for the company, they began to make a well known brand for themselves. For example, Twiggy is now a key stakeholder in the brand’s image since the advert in 2005. She has starred in many of their adverts since and even has her own range in store. Twiggy comes into the company with her own kudos from being such a success in the 60’s when she shot to fame with Vidal Sassoon’s 5 point cut. Twiggy is not someone who the public associate with scandal or bad press unlike McQueen’s case with Kate Moss. Marks and Spencer have also created a ‘digital lab’ in order to “address the fast pace of technological change occurring in retail stores, enabling a more agile development process.” (Finnegan, 2013, Computer World UK) Compared to Alexander McQueen, it is clear they are not as up to date and as daring when it comes to using new technology. However since 2005, M&S have started to make more efforts to update and then use these to expand their clothing to new customers.

THETHEN

Alexander McQueen McQueen has a lot of references to the past in their collections. The A/W 2010 collection was based on Byzantine art, which originates to 842 AD. In contrast to the high technology shows the public were used to, the outfits were modeled in a “grand Parisian drawing room with a parquet floor and gilt-edged mirrors.” The materials used were also reflected from the past “Rich, gold thread came embroidered over scarlet silk and there was an entire coat fashioned out of gold feathers worn over one of several floor-skimming white gowns” (McNulty, 2010, In Style Online). As it references art from so long ago, it shows that McQueen has a wide spectrum, and can use the latest technology as well as iconic history. Another example of McQueen using history to base a show on is ‘Jack the Ripper Stalks his Victims’, one of the first collections in 1992. By having such a strong motif the audience can tell that it has meaning to the designer, which this collection did. McQueen’s family had links to a safe house to victims of Jack the Ripper. He once said his shows were his “own living nightmares.” (Vougepedia, 2011, Vougue.com) ‘They Shoot Horses Don’t They?’ is a

film from 1969. This film was the basis of McQueen’s 2004 show., where not only the clothes were influenced, but also the way it was choreographed to be a dance marathon in the same style to the film. This is a film that a lot of the public would not associate with McQueen, however, it could be assumed that it was chosen as its set in the depression, a hopeless dancer that wants to be shot, and a lot of their shows are focused on the way women are treated and seen. (IMDB, n/a, IMDB online) The picture below is Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia 1997 based on the film also. (Marini, 2011, Vogue.com) Fall 1998 collection was based on Joan of Arc, a woman who was burned at the stake. McQueen himself said that he isn’t inspired by women but by the “minds of the women in the past, like Catherine the Great, or Marie Antoinette. People who were doomed. Joan of Arc or Colette. Iconic women.” (McQueen, 2011, Met Museum Online) This again goes to show that there is more than just the clothes thought that goes into the shows. It has a deeper meaning and implies that the past plays an important part in today’s fashion.

Fig.5 6

THETHEN Marks and Spencer

As a survey which asked the public where they are likely to shop, the results were that M&S attracted 27 per cent of votes from 4150s, 38 per cent of 51-60s and 47 per cent of over 61s. (Hickman, 2012, Independent online) This proves that Marks and Spencer attracts the most over 61 year olds. This customer base are people that have lived though the fashions of the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s, so when M&S design products that reflect these eras, they know that the percentage of these older women understand the trends and they may feel more comfortable with them than say new trends/fads. For example, there are links that Twiggy plays an important role in the brands image and that she was a massive part of history in the 60’s. Marks and Spencer have done a range of clothing that reflects the 1960’s. This is a trend that has been done by some big names on the catwalk such as Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. The Guardian online claimed at the time, that the collection “plugs the gap between the exit of Kate Bostock, former head of all nonfood business, who left in October, and the arrival of new style director Belinda Earl, whose influence on the M&S collections won’t be felt until autumn/winter 2013” (Chilvers, 2012, Guardian) They are also including pieces for a younger audience, and not just the ‘M&S shopper’.

Fig.6 7

THEOTHER Alexander McQueen

Fig.7 One of Alexander McQueen’s most famous quotes is that he said his favourite magazine was National Geographic. He shows influences his thoughts on the environment through his shows. In an interview, he describes changes as the “evolution of fashion.” He describes his Plato’s Atlantis show as being an escape in your mind, and it can be anything you want it to be. (McQueen, 2010, ShowStudio) Overall the collection screams how our global situation is in jeopardy. There is the belief that we will end up under water, and this collection definitely reflects that. With a woman in the opening film being immersed into water, then psychedelic images represent evolution and then the models walk the catwalk with armadillo shoes and shaped hair to look like they have, in fact, evolved. In McQueen’s spring 2009 RTW collection, where “the first portion of his show consisted of prints from nature and stuffed animals. The second half of the show’s designs were inspired by where our world is at this time--mass technology and global warming--with sharp and edgy designs.” (Winn, 2008, Trend Hunter online)

THEOTHER

Marks and Spencer

Marks and England as much Spencer launched as internationally. ‘Plan A’ in (M&S, 2012, Plan January 2007, and A) started off with Marks and 100 commitments Spencer are also that they planned ‘making strides’ to complete in 5 to encourage years. It has now men to be more been extended to conscious about 180 commitments what products to be achieved they buy. Blue by 2015. This Harbour are is all in aim making 2,000 of becoming limited edition “the world’s sustainable chinos. most sustainable They say that major retailer.” the manufacturing (M&S Plan A, for these trousers 2012, Marks and happen at one of Fig.9 Spencer) These commitments include helping their “revolutionary ‘Eco Factories’, in Sri Lanka” things such as climate change and ethical trade. This is operated in the most environmentally One of the ways they are getting friendly way possible. “The buttons, thread and customers to help out is by having ‘wool week’, elastic are made from recycled polyester. The which the Prince of Wales has got involved cut is beautiful. And the finish has a heritage with. This highlights the “benefits and versatility feel that looks effortlessly stylish.” Which all of wool in fashion, furnishings and everyday life” adds up to one of the most sustainable trousers (M&S, 2012, Plan A). They have introduced new Marks and Spencer have. (M&S, 2012, Plan A) products which are promoted through wool week, These trousers are a good way to target men and come with a message about wool and its making a conscious effort when it comes to impact on the growers, and just how beneficial fashion. There is the stereotype that men don’t it is to buy well sourced products. The range like shopping and don’t take as long as women, even includes some ‘100% made in Briton’ however by changing the trousers they were scarves and wraps, which is very well named already buying is an easy way for them to help as customers who are interested in buying more ‘Plan A’. economically friendly products all know how So far, M&S have reduced emissions by 22%. important it is to support local businesses in They have managed this by changing light

Fig.8 9

THEOTHER Marks and Spencer

fittings so they now use 70% less energy, also lorries are now more fuel efficient. They have come up with the mindset that the more energy and carbon they save, they less money it will cost them, so therefore it is financially beneficial to them to be more environmentally friendly. They have won 16 fundamental awards in the process, and it shows that their efforts are not going unmissed by the industry. As Marks and Spencer is a brand that has many branches, they are also making huge efforts to help the environment in other areas of their retail. For example, they are very proud of their fair trade and fair sourced food. They are making a name for themselves which the customer then associates with helping the brand become sustainable. They have a section on their ‘Plan A’ part of the website, where they tell the customer what they can do to support Marks and Spencer to then relay into a better world. It includes tips, one of which is “swopping”, they tell the customer to bring in old clothes to donate to Oxfam when purchasing new ones from them. This is something that customers do not have to apply, pay or go

to any great effort to do, yet at the same time if everyone did this, it would have a huge impact. This is a much more pro-active approach to climate change and trying to help the situation compared to McQueen. Although, McQueen may be trying to promote awareness rather than trying to provide tracks to get the public to change their ways in which they choose to shop.

Overall, this report has shown that many brands in the fashion industry can often have the same or completely different mindset when it comes to the way they reach their audiences. In Alexander McQueen and Marks and Spencer’s case, there is a clear advance in technology for McQueen, however M&S have made much bigger steps when it comes to the environment and eco issues. It is also likely that Marks and Spencer’s will continue to make more progress with their ‘Plan A’ campaign as they have invested a lot of time and effort into getting it across to customers. Both companies use past influences in their clothing, as a lot of other brands do too, recurring fashions is obvious, however McQueen likes to push the boundaries and reference events that haven’t been done before and aren’t expected.

Fig.10

ILLUSTRATION REFERNCES

Fig.1 - Unknown. (2011). Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty Met Exhibit: Showmanship. Available:

http://www.themashidip.com/my-blog/2011/07/alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty-met-exhibit-showmanship.html. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.2 - Knight, N and Hogben, R. (2010). Platoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Atlantis. Available: http://showstudio.com/project/platos_atlantis. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.3 - Todorovic, D. (2012). ICONS - KATE MOSS.... Available: http://www.stylebydeni.com/2012/11/ icons-kate-moss.html. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.4 - Matchett, P. (2008). Twiggy Painting. Available: http://www.matchpopart.com/pop_art_twiggy_ painting.html. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.5 - Marini, B. (2011). Fashion Marathon. Available: http://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/ obsession-of-the-day/2011/03/fashion-marathon-meisel. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.6 - Chilvers, S. (2012). Can a monochrome 60s look revive Marks & Spencerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion sales?. Available: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/nov/15/monochrome-60s-revive-marks-spence. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.7 - vivo23222. (n/a). n/a. Available: http://s304.beta.photobucket.com/user/vivo23222/media/91503623_10.jpg.html. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.8 - n/a. (2011). M&S reaps the rewards of sustainability. Available: http://www.colorcoat-online. com/blog/index.php/2011/06/ms-reaps-the-rewards-of-sustainability/. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.9 - Huffington Post. (2012). Pictures Of The Day From Huffington Post Picture Desk Live: 11th October 2012. Available: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2012/10/10/huffington-post-picture-huffington-postpicture-desk-live-11th-october-2012_n_1955445.html. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Fig.10 - M&S. (2013). What you can do. Available: http://plana.marksandspencer.com/you-can-do. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013.

BIBLIOGRAPHY Blow, I. (2011). McQueen and I, Channel 4 Documentary Chilvers, S. (2012). Can a monochrome 60s look revive Marks & Spencer’s fashion sales?. Available: http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/nov/15/monochrome-60s-revive-marks-spence. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Daily Mail Reporter. (2011). Kate Moss back in the hologram dress as she pays tribute to Alexander McQueen in magazine shoot. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-1371623/KateMoss-hologram-dress-pays-tribute-Alexander-McQueen-magazine-shoot.html#ixzz2KKHVSZtQ. Last accessed 5th Feb 2013. Finnegan, M. (2013). Marks & Spencer creates ‘digital lab’ to speed retail tech development. Available: http://www.computerworlduk.com/news/it-business/3424283/marks-spencer-creates-digital-lab-speed-retail-tech-development/. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Harlow, S. (2011). Dress, No. 13, spring/summer 1999. Available: http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/dress-no-13/. Last accessed 4th Feb 2013. Hickman, M. (2012). Marks and Spencer still the older woman’s favourite but Zara wins battle of the high street - says survey by ex-M&S boss . Available: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/marks-and-spencer-still-the-older-womans-favourite-but-zara-wins-battle-of-the-high-street--says-survey-by-exms-boss-8393341.htm. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. IMDB. (n/a). They Shoot Horses Don’t They?. Available: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065088/. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Knight, N. (2010). Plato’s Atlantis. Available: http://showstudio.com/project/platos_atlantis/interview. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. M&S. (2012). The campaign for wool. Available: http://plana.marksandspencer.com/we-are-doing/natural-resources/wool-week. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. M&S. (2013). What you can do. Available: http://plana.marksandspencer.com/you-can-do. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. M&S. (2012). About Plan A. Available: http://plana.marksandspencer.com/about. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. M&S. (2012). On the trouser trail…. Available: http://plana.marksandspencer.com/we-are-doing/natural-resources/sustainable-chinos. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Marini, B. (2011). Fashion Marathon. Available: http://www.vogue.it/en/people-are-talking-about/obsessionof-the-day/2011/03/fashion-marathon-meisel. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. McNulty, P. (2010). Alexander McQueen A/W 2010: The final show. Available: http://www.instyle.co.uk/ news/alexander-mcqueen-aw-2010-the-final-show-10-03-10. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. McQueen, A. (2011). Ensemble, The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, autumn/winter 2008–9. Available: http://blog.metmuseum.org/alexandermcqueen/ensemble-girl-who-lived-in-tree/ . Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Moss, K. (2011). Double Cover Star Kate Moss Wears Alexander McQueen. Available: http://www. harpersbazaar.co.uk/covers/double-cover-star-kate-moss-001. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Pearlman, J. (2005). Marks & Spencer’s sales increase fuelled by Twiggy ad campaign. Available: http://www.brandrepublic.com/news/521449/. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013.

BIBLIOGRAPHY The Stories Team. (2012). Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day augmented reality. Available: http://social.marksandspencer. com/fashion-2/valentines-day-augmented-reality/. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Voguepedia. (2011). Alexander McQueen. Available: http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Alexander_McQueen . Last accessed 10th Feb 2013. Winn, S. (2008). Environment-Inspired Couture. Available: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/fashion-inspired-by-endangered-species-alexander-mcqueen-spring-2009-collec. Last accessed 10th Feb 2013.