VALE! by emily austin

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CONTRIBUTORS

KELSEY ALLEN

EMILY AUSTIN

AUDRIE LATHROP

REBEKAH LEWIS

ERIN ZINGRÉ

Vale! PRONOUNCED: Bah-lay Vale! is a Spanish term with such meanings as “Cool!” “Okay!” and “Yeah!”. It is a ubiquitous phrase in Spain, France, and Italy. Because it is a slang term, Vale! particularly speaks to the youthful, urban culture that our magazine seeks to target.

ICELAND SWEDEN THE NETHE MOROCCO SPAIN

ERLANDS

GUIDE 10

FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE 10

14 18

TRAVEL TIPS 20

SMS Around The World

ICELAND / Food From Iceland

SWEDEN / Style Scandi-mania

THE NETHERLANDS / Amsterdam Street Markets

MOROCCO / The Kingdom of Morocco

SPAIN / Life Abroad

FASHION 80

84 68

Questionable Cuisine Boozing Abroad Stuff Your Face Tactfully

Packing Light

HOUSING 84

Hostels We Like

MAY 2012 | Vale! Magazine, Issue 01

THEY’LL ZIP ACROSS THE WORLD WITH YOU,

OR JUST AROUND THE BLOCK.

FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE | Questionable Cuisine

QUESTIONABLE CUISINE These five foods are ranked highest to lowest in relation to each other on four different categories, by readers like you. However, your taste buds may take a while to adapt to the flavors. Don’t shoot the messenger if its not your cup of tea. bizarreness

taste

texture

presentation

STROOPWAFEL This waffle is made from two thin layers of baked batter with a caramellike syrup filling in the middle. They were first made in Gouda, Netherlands, in 1784. Large versions are sold in the Duttch streets as a snack. AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

SILD Young Herring processed as Sardines in Norway are called Sild. Herring are small, streamlined, silvery fish with a single dorsal fin. They move around together in huge schools near the surface of the water. Sild is incorporated in many toppings of recipes in Swedish cuisine.

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

3 TIPS FOR DINING ABROAD LANGUAGE IS NOT A BARRIER Don’t worry if you can’t find an English menu – pick up a few key words of popular local food, or write them down so you can get your basic request across to waiters who don’t speak your language.

AT LEAST ONE GOOD MEAL IS ESSENTIAL - Even if you’re on a tight budget, try to give yourself at least one good meal a day. If you’re an ‘Eat-toLive’ person, then remember to reward yourself with a great meal from time to time. Often you get what you pay for, though that definitely doesn’t ring true for street food, which is cheap, good and tastes best straight from the cart.

DON’T TRUST THE GUIDEBOOK Instead of using a guidebook for restaurant recommendations, trust the locals. Your hostel clerk or concierge should be able to give you great leads on where to go. If you’re feeling adventurous, just pop into any place that catches your eye!

3 REASONS FOR EATING STREET FOOD PRICE: Food doesn’t get much cheaper and it’s saves many backpackers on a budget. CULINARY AUTHENTICITY: Food isn’t dumbed down like in hotel restaurants, it’s what the people actually eat on a daily bases. INTERACTION WITH LOCALS: Typically in street markets you’re sitting on a plastic stool, seated around a communal table. Closeness encourages conversation.

HAKARL This fermented shark meat is an Icelandic delicacy. It is so delicate, in fact, that many people in Iceland never get around to trying it because it tastes like ammonia and causes humans to gag when they put it in their mouth, sounds delicious. REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

ANGULAS A

Spanish name for young European eels, or “elver” eels. When these tiny eels arrive in fish markets they are only about three inches long and the thickness of a strand of spaghetti. This was a common fisherman’s dish in the Basque Country.

VALENCIA, SPAIN

K’LIA

Also spelled khlea. this meat (usually lamb) is salted, dried, and preserved in its own fat. A traditional specialty of Morocco, k’lia is often served with lentils and spices in outdoor markets.

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

kindle fire Bring the world with you.

FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE | Boozing Abroad

BOOZING ABROAD RESPONSIBLE SUBSTANCE ABUSE AROUND THE WORLD.

Traveling isn’t all planning and business. You’re young. You’re free. If you want an authentic experience, some of these beverages may help you feel like a true local.

JENEVER

BRENNIVÍN

Holland | Essentially Dutch Gin

Iceland | Schnapps

warming + calming properties

often called black death

Brennivín is a brand of schnapps that is considered to be Iceland’s signature liquor. It is made from fermented potato mash and is flavoured with caraway seeds. It is sometimes called svarti dauði (“Black Death”).At times it is drunk as a “chaser” after sampling hákarl, which consists of putrefied shark flesh, to mask the fish’s taste. The word BREN-

NIVÍN LITERALLY TRANSLATES INTO ENGLISH AS ‘BURNING WINE.’

Schiedam and Amsterdam in the Netherlands are known for jenever and are occasionally called “jenever cities” (jeneversteden). The House of Bols attraction in Amsterdam walks through the history of the Bols brand and lets you make your own cocktail. Jenever Has been credited with inspiring the term “DUTCH COURAGE” for its warming and calming properties before a battle.

BRÄNNVIN Sweden | Akvavit + Vodka most have around 40% alcohol

The most important of stronger beverages in the Swedish cuisine is Brännvin which is a general term that includes mainly two kinds of beverages: The Akvavit, also called Aqua vitae, and the Vodka. When consumed traditionally it is often served as a Snaps, but Vodka is also popularly consumed as a drink ingredient. Renat is often considered to be the national vodka of Sweden, but other highly popular brands are Explorer Vodka and Absolut Vodka, the latter being one of the world’s best known liquor brands. Most forms of Swedish Brännvin have around 40% ALCOHOL.

MINT TEA

SANGRIA

Morocco | non-alcoholic

Spain | Brandy + chopped fruit

offered in sign of friendship

the brandy is easily substituted

Alcohol is not readily available in Morocco in accordance with Islamic tradition, however Tea occupies a very important place in Moroccan culture and is considered an art form. It is served all through the day, and it is especially a drink of hospitality, commonly served whenever there are guests, and it is impolite to refuse it.

Sangria is a wine punch typical of Argentina, Spain and Portugal. It normally consists of wine, chopped fruit, a sweetener, and a small amount of added brandy. In the case of fruits, they are chopped or sliced such as orange, lemon, lime, apple, peach, melon, berries, pineapple, grape and mango. A sweetener such as honey, sugar, simple syrup, orange juice is added.

TRAVEL TIDBIT Don’t let things get out of hand. If you do plan to drink or “party” while abroad, we suggest doing it sensibly and in the company of friends that you trust.

FOOD AND NIGHTLIFE | Stuff Your Face Tactfully

TRAVEL TIPS | SMS Around the World

THE NAPSACK PERFECT FOR SUMMER TRIPS, COUCH SURFING, MUSIC FESTIVALS, JUMPING INTO AFTER SNOWBOARDING, SURFING OR ANY OTHER ACTIVITY THAT BRING YOUR CORE TEMP DOWN. IT’S NOT TOO HOT FOR INSIDE AND IS AWESOME FOR WEARING AROUND THE HOUSE IN THE WINTER.

INTRODUCING

THE NAPSACK

Iceland has had most of its cuisine dictated by the edibility of the wildlife and the need to preserve it. Fish comes sun-dried (eaten as a snack, or before a meal, torn apart and softened with a little butter); meat is preserved so it lasts and every part of a beast has found its way into the recipe books.

ICELANDIC CUISINE REYKJAVIK ICELAND

Reykjavík is believed to be the location of the first permanent settlement in Iceland. Ingólfur Arnarson is said to have established it around 870 C.E. Until the 18th century, there was no urban development in the city.

HOMELAND

Icelanders are among the planet’s healthiest, happiest people. Their incredibly pure diet could be the secret. For centuries, hunting, fishing and foraging sustained Iceland. The island, just south of the Arctic Circle, is so remote and its growing season so short that people would take whatever they could from the land and the sea, surviving on puffin jerky and ammonia-reeking fermented shark (Harkal). Today Iceland’s geographic isolation

TRAVEL TIDBIT

VISITING ICELAND IS WHAT THOUSANDS OF YOUNG BRITS ARE DOING EVERY WEEKEND. THEY SPENDTHE WEEKEND LAZING IN GEOTHERMALLY HEATED POOLS AND LAID-BACK CASUAL NIGHTCLUBS.

strict government environmental regulations help. produce some of the purest foods on the planet. Grass-fed cows with lineage that date back to the Norwegian herds brought by the Vikings in 874 AD make milk that’s high in beta carotene, creating exceptional butter and cheese as well as the yogurt-like skyr. Family farms sell tender meat from lambs that have grazed in the mountains all summer on moss, scrub and wildflowers. Fish farmers raise arctic char without chemicals or antibiotics in ecofriendly saltwater tanks. The ingredients are now coming to the U.S, which makes it easier for Americans to eat more like Icelanders. The Icelandic diet may be the secret to its citizens’ impressive health and happiness. Icelanders’ average life span, 81 years of age, is among the longest in the world. And, despite a recent economic collapse, Iceland was ranked number one on the most recent European Happy Planet Index factoring in everything from carbon footprint to depression.

ICELAND CHEFS

Restaurants take great pride in their dishes and the ingredients used. Real, organic food is a must for Icelandic cuisine, even if they have to harvest their own ingredients. Popular foods in Iceland include skyr, hangikjöt (smoked lamb), kleinur, laufabrauð and bollur (bread and muffins). Þorramatur is a traditional buffet served at midwinter festivals called Þorrablót, they have a wide range of traditionally cured meat and fish products served with rúgbrauð (dense dark and sweet rye bread) and brennivín (an Icelandic akvavit). Much of this traditional country food is determined by the preservation methods used, usually pickling in fermented whey or brine, drying and smoking.

“Our food doesn’t come from industrial farms, it comes from family farms,” — Icelandic chef Siggi Hall,

INGREDIENTS

Modern Icelandic chefs usually place an emphasis on the quality of the ingredients rather than age-old cooking methods. Hence, a number of restaurants in Iceland that specialized in seafood. Other local ingredients that form part of the Icelandic chef’s store include seabirds and waterfowl, and their eggs, salmon, trout, crowberry, blueberry, rhubarb, Iceland moss, wild mushrooms, wild thyme, lovage, angelica, dried seaweed and a wide array of dairy products.

TOP 5 THINGS TO DO - Soak your stress away in on of the city’s relaxing thermal pools. - Climb up Hallgrímskirkja Church tower for a panoramic view of the city. - Test your stamina with a night on the town “ Reykjavík Style”. - Be amazed by the sight of whales and dolphins on a whale watching tour. - Stroll around the city centre, and enjoy the relaxing atmosphere by Tjornin. Lake.

REYKJAVÍK S HEILMIKIÐ VEITINGAHÚ RÉTTLÁTUR SÉRHVER H SMEKK.

STÁTAR AF FÍNUM ÚSUM MEÐ R ÓÐUR Í HUGSANLEG — Reykjavik boasts with dozens of fine restaurants with just about every conceivable taste.

Local newspapers, the Frettabladid and

“Loved this

Morgunbladid can be found inside Cafe haiti

place so much,

for sale. Keep updated on the local news and

we ended up

interest of the people. Although the articles are in icelandic, the locals are friendly and photos are very descriptive and helpful.

coming here twice during our stay in town. Cozy atmosphere and extremely nice staff. Loved the soup specials!” —Kathy M.

icelandic barley breakfast recipe Ingredients 1 cup Bob’s Red Mill hulless barley 4 cups water 1 teaspoon butter or margarine 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup Bob’s Red Mill dried apples

1/3 cup Bob’s Red Mill black currants 1/4 cup honey 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon finely grated orange peel (optional)

Place barley, water, butter or margarine, and salt in a 2 quart saucepan for stove top or 3 quart bowl for microwave. (The butter or margarine keeps the water when mixed with small amounts of starch from the grain from boiling over.) Cover. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer 90 minutes. Ideally all of the water should just be absorbed as the barley finishes cooking. Check near the end of cooking time and add boiling water if the barley is too dry or remove the lid if the barley is too wet. When cooking barley in the future, adjust water and/ or cooking time as needed. While still hot, stir in dried apples, currants, honey and cinnamon. If there is a layer of starch on top of the barley when cooking it in the microwave, just stir it in with the apples and currants. Let stand 10 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

CAFE HAITI BREAKFAST 1,273-1,909 KRÓNUR

you will be able to see a beautiful sun rise over the ocean. The menu is not too fancy; it’s more of your traditional small portioned breakfast items including a fabulous cup of coffee. Cafe Haiti serves Hafragrautur, or oatmeal, which is a staple in the diet of Icelandic families for centuries. Oats and some water or milk were mixed in a pot and left to simmer while the parents made coffee so thick it would have to be stirred with a cement trowel. Hafragrautur would then be served with a sprinkle of brown sugar, or occasionally a handful of raisins or a pat of butter. Meanwhile, the children would take a swig of lýsi (cod liver oil), a vital source of omega-3 acids and vitamin D, which in winter would be the only way to prevent vitamin deficiency because of extended periods of near total darkness. Those who have had a small animal die in their mouth might be familiar with how disagreeable the taste is. We would rather stick to brown sugar in our oatmeal.

LOCATION

Cafe Haiti is a wonderful place to enjoy a cup of joe and the local town company. This restaurant is right on the water front. If you go early enough

MORNINGS

Icelandic cuisine has never been known for being one of particularly lavish breakfasts. Because dark, icy mornings await them, they call for something easy and piping hot to be scarfed down before braving whatever storm, volcanic eruption, earthquake, or avalanche that might be waiting on the doorstep.

FREE ACTIVITIES AFTER BREAKFAST Hallgrimur’s Church (Hallgrimskirkja) The tower of Hallgrimskirkja is clearly visible from many points in Reykjavik and serves as a navigational landmark. Completed in 1974, the splendid basalt cathedral is open daily.

Gullfloss (Golden Waterfall) A waterfall located in the canyon of Hvítá River in southwest Iceland.

Laugardalur Park This is actually made up of several parks in one large area. In addition to one of the best swimming pools in the city, the recreational expanse has picnic and barbecuing facilities.

“We decided on the Chef’s choice. It was nine courses of the freshest seafood we’ve had. The whale melted in your mouth. The seasonings and sauces were perfect.”

— Mary S.

HYLDEBLOM fried MONKFISH & deep fried MONKFISH CHEEK with fried brussel sprout & kale, creamy white cabbage, baby carrot & carrot ice cream 4400 krónur

“The food choice is extensive and imaginative, with a good mixture of meat and seafood.” — John K. ICELAND finest FISH, straight from the sea, via our old friend the FISHERMAN 4900 krónur

“The chef has a very creative menu, with complex combinations that somehow work very well together to make a great meal.”— Mike H. LEEK sous vide & blackened lightly salted FILLET OF COD with fennel jam, mushroom purée, walnut & bacon foam 4100 krónur

FISKFELAGID LUNCH 1,273-3,183 KRÓNUR

LOCAL ATMOSPHERE

Of course, if you just want something quick and easy and, yes, cheap, try the local supermarket or grocery store. They will stock the basics, like Iceland’s ubiquitous skyr (kind of like a thick yogurt, or Quark to the Germans) and harðfiskur — dried fish (haddock, or cod or catfish) which must be eaten with butter. Some supermarkets do hot lunches that include, svið (singed sheep’s heads). A popular supermarket, is Fiskfelagid (Fish Company), which serves a fabulous lunch time menu that has a traditional fish market atmosphere. They have a wonderful chef on hand with a unique menu. Fish Company is down by the old harbour in Reykjavic, tucked under a bridge. They’re quick to turn this into an asset, emphasizing on their marketing paraphernalia that ‘all the best adventures take place under a bridge’. Inside the restaurant it’s monastically dark with heavy stone walls and dark wood panelled floors. There’s a burst of color to one side of the entrance hall. It’s a flutter of post it notes where previous guests have left scribbles of praise. A good sign to show that people have enjoyed this restaurant. The staff speaks great English and menus are available in both Icelandic and English. The restaurant is busy with plenty of over seas blow-ins, but there are also plenty of locals, who certainly know how to have a good time.

ABBACCHIO — Seasoned with garlic, rosemary, salt and black pepper. The

SPECIAL SEASONINGS USED

name comes from southern Italy and is widely used throughout the Easter holidays and often with lamb. KAREN — Beautiful sea bird that lives in holes in the islands, as in the island and island in the country. He hamflettur, like other seabirds. Best if either boiled or smoked. QUINOA —Grain Type, by njólaætt, which was cultivated by the Indians in Peru and Chile for Colombian. The name has come from the language of the Inca. Usually quinoa first boiled and then fried with vegetables. The leaves can be used like spinach, then steikjt or into salads. TAMARILLO— Reddish in color and reminiscent of tomato in taste and appearance. Comes from Peru and New Zealand.

TRAVEL TIDBIT

ICELANDERS EAT THE VERY SMALL DOLPHINS, HREFNAKJOT, THAT GET CAUGHT IN FISHING NETS. DOLPHINS TEND TO BE TOUGH AND ARE USUALLY BOILED AND ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE PIECES THAT TEETH CAN’T BITE THROUGH.

TOP 5 SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS SJAVARGRILLID (SEAFOOD GRILL) 2,164-6,366 krónur Kjötsúpan og grilluð lambaöxl rófa, gulrót, bankabygg, jarðepli

Grilled salmon and smoked arctic char fennel, dill, lemon, cous cous

FISKFELAGID (FISH COMPANY) 1,273-3,183 krónur Sous vide eldaður & blakkeraður léttsaltaður þorskhnakki með blaðlauk & fennel sultu, sveppakrem, valhneta & beikon

Sous vide & blackened lightly salted fillet of cod with fennel jam, mushroom purée, walnut, crispy bacon & bacon foam

FROÐAAPASHUSID (TAPASHOUSE) 1,909-5,092 krónur Önd “piri piri” með eplum

Cured salmon “smörre” with dill herb

NAUTHOLL 1,655-5,092 krónur Kjúklingasamloka dökkt hamborgarabrauð, sinnepssósa, stökkt beikon, kartöflubátar, tómatar og salat

Fried salted cod (bacalao) mashed potatoes with mustard, caramelized onions and browned butter with herbs

3 FRAKKAR HJA ULFARI 1,909-5,092 krónur Ferskur léttsteiktur Blá-ugga Túnfiskur m/soya-smjörsósu og wasabi-kartöflumús

Lightly grilled fresh Blue-fin Tuna with soya-butter sauce and mashed potatoes-wasabi

NAUTHOLL DINNER 1,655-5,092 KRÓNUR

MEALS NAUTHOLL

In Iceland, a restaurant can’t survive if you’re not serving fresh fish and lamb. There are numerous restaurants in Reykjavík that do serve excellent lamb and seafood. In fact, just about every restaurant makes excellent lamb and seafood, by simple virtue of the fact that you really can’t go wrong with lamb and seafood in Iceland. Lamb is outstanding, and fresh seafood is an unwritten law. Food in Iceland can be expensive. In order not to break the bank, you’ll need to be smart when eating. The Nautholl Restaurant features modern Icelandic cuisine under fifty dollars, with an emphasis on fresh local ingredients, in-house production and a casual atmosphere. Nautholl is led by Master Chef, Eythor Runarsson, an Icelandic National Culinary Team member and part of a new generation of Icelandic chefs committed to sustainable cuisine. Nautholl is situated on the outskirts of Öskjuhlid, Reykjavik’s downtown nature paradise, overlooking Thermal Beach. The view is more reminiscent of a rural destination, rather than a high class bistro. It’s only a 5 minute drive from downtown Reykjavik. They offer a variety of dishes to choose from and, the restaurant always has the potential of providing something new to its customers. Another major crowd pleaser is the live musical performances held frequently at the restaurant.

The interior is modern but stylish with large uncovered windows that allow you to enjoy the picturesque view of the glaciers.

DISPLAY

Nautholl meals are delicious and artistically displayed on plate. The chefs help create a sophisticated atmosphere with the food, and the price is low compared to other authentic restaurants in Reykjavik. Lamb is their speciality and almost all platers are severed with some form of it incorporated in the dish. A favorite is Langtímaeldaður og rifinn lambaskanki (Long Cooked and shredded lamb) served with, mashed potatoes and glazed root vegetables.

“After walking Ægissida to Oskjuhlid when we ran into this nice little restaurant by the sea. For the next couple of hours were filled with outstanding good food and wine.” — Conny & Mike

1 1

ICELAND

Mosfellsbaer Hiloar Myar

Asar

Krikar

Tuh

Foldir

Hus

Laekir Gamli

Teigar

Miobear

narnes Grandar Norourmyri

Saltjar

Hiloar

Vogar V

Reykjavik Sprengisandur

Lindir

Kopavogur

tun lma Alftan esvegu rir Va gar r o Sk

Asar

Garoabeer 41 Vesturbee r

1 Hvorf

Karsnes

Selas

Breiholt

Mosfellsbaer Hiloar Myar

Asar

Krikar

Tuh

Foldir

Hus

Laekir Gamli

Teigar

1 Miobear arnes 6 ri urmy Noro dar Saltjarn Gran Hiloar

Vogar V

Reykjavik 4 3

Sprengisandur

Breiholt

Hvorf

Karsnes

Lindir

Kopavogur

tun lma Ho Alftan esveg rir ur Va gar o Sk

Selas

Asar

Garoabeer

41 Vesturbee

CAFE HAITI

FISKFELAGID FISHCOMPANY

Geirsgata 7b, Reykjavik, Iceland p. +3545518484 web. cafe-haiti.com email. methusalem@simnet.is

3 FRAKKAR HJA ULFARI

TAPASHUSID / TAPASHOUSE

NAUTHOLL RESTURAUNT

Vesturgötu 2a, Grófartorg Reykjavík, Iceland p. +3545525300 web. fishcompany.is email. info@fiskfelagid.is

NAUTHOLL RESTAURANT Nautholsvegur 106, Reykjavik, Iceland p. +3545996660 web. nautholl.is email. nautholl@nautholl.is

Baldursgata 14, Reykjavik, Iceland p. +3545523939 web. 3frakkar.com email. frakkar@islandia.is

Aegisgardur 2 | The old harbour, Reykjavik, Iceland p. +3545128181 web. tapashusid.is email. info@tapashusid.is

Skolavordustigur 14, Reykjavik, Iceland p. +3545711100 web. sjavargrillid.is email. info@sjavargrillid.is

n a c s e l y t s

n a m

we take an in-depth look at the fashion worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new hot-spot: what to wear, where to find it for cheap, and whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s calling the shots

i d n

nia

Modern Street Style history for beginners

FASHIONISTAS HAVE LONG FETISHIZED THE

UNTIL NOW, THE BEST-KNOWN EXCEPTION HAS

STREET. Yves Saint-Laurent led the way in

BEEN THE SUNDAY NEW YORK TIMES, WHICH FOR

1960 with his scandalous Beat Collection,

MORE THAN 10 YEARS HAS BEEN RUNNING—at

which paid tribute to the beatniks who

a small size, on lackluster newsprint in the

moped around Paris’ Left Bank in motor-

Style section—Bill Cunningham’s candid

cycle jackets, black leotards, and flats. De-

shots of stylish New Yorkers. But an excit-

signers—who had traditionally associated

ing new development is making it easier

themselves with high culture and the beau

than ever to follow the look of the man

monde—have ever since been finding inspi-

(and woman) on the street. Made possible

ration in the vulgar masses. A cynic might

by faster Internet access and cheaper digi-

say that by co-opting rather than creating

tal photography, street-fashion blogs have

trends, haute couture has been trying to de-

sprung up all over the world, and they are

fend its prestige and authority in an increas-

quickly proliferating.

ingly anarchic fashion world, one in which

THE BEST OF THESE SITES CAPTURE THE JOYS OF

the forces of ready-to-wear and cultural

PEOPLE-WATCHING AND OFFER AN EXPERIENCE

anti-elitism threaten to win the day.

THAT’S MORE LIKE LOUNGING ON A PARK BENCH

WHATEVER THE REASON FOR FASHION’S OBSES-

THAN FLIPPING THROUGH A FASHION MAGA-

SION WITH THE STREET, KEEPING AN EYE ON IT

ZINE. For one thing, the blogs aren’t label-

HAS NEVER BEEN EASY. Strolling around town

conscious: Few identify the brands worn,

is tough on the shoe leather, and only in-

and not one mentions the prices paid. Their

siders know just where to look. The print

subjects also tend to be dressed casually,

media, meanwhile, has been of little help.

with few business suits or cocktail outfits

Fashion editors are more likely to devote

in sight. Even better, many of the subjects

what pages they have to the fashion es-

are actually smiling—quite a faux pas in

tablishment (which pays for advertising)

the fashion world, which still demands the

than to nameless but chic pedestrians (who

scornful, stricken look that traces back to

don’t).

Lord Byron. But the sites do share at least one trait with fashion glossies: Most feature photos of young hipsters taken by young hipsters, with few ordinary Joes or dowdy seniors on display.

“Swedish street style is very much original, minimal, and wearable.”

Elin Kling: The voice of Sweden’s most fashionable.

UPON SURVEYING THE BLOGS, IT’S TEMPTING TO GENERALIZE ABOUT THE STATE OF FASHION AROUND THE WORLD. At the very least, these sites demonstrate that the shoulder-bagged urban hipster will fit in wherever he travels. And this photo suggests that the plague of “high idiocy” T-shirts, which sport ironically dumb slogans like “Your retarded,” has spread as far as Singapore. Likewise, someone looking for local trends might conclude

Elin Kling has since 2007 been running scandinavia’s largest fashionblog – Style by Kling.

that Stockholmers are fond of cheery, almost primary colors, that Berliners prefer knee-length skirts and sundresses to trousers, and that Muscovites love busy patterns. One must be careful not to extrapolate too much, however. Not being documentarians or anthropologists, the editors end up revealing their own taste more than that of their locales. SOME OF THE EDITORS PROVE TO BE UNUSUALLY ADEPT AT CAPTURING A PARTICULAR AESTHETIC. For instance, Helsinki’s Hel-Looks, whose subjects always appear strikingly in sharp focus against a blurry background, has recently been concentrating on trends in platform boots, horizontally striped stockings (sometimes mismatched), and the style known in Japan as “elegant Gothic Lolita,” which is a morbid take on Victorian doll dresses. Appropriately enough, it has also been offering plentiful examples of the Scandinavian look of combining highly disparate items that nonetheless work together. IT IS, OF COURSE, NO SURPRISE THAT THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS ALREADY BEGUN TO USE STREET-FASHION BLOGS FOR ITS OWN COMMERCIAL PURPOSES—in-

Style by Kling has won several awards, both for the blog and for the web-tv show – inspired by the blog. She started her career as fashion-editor at the lifestyle-magazine solo. After that she’s been fronting the fashion-department of sweden’s second largest daily newspaper expressen. During that period sweden’s largest tv-network, tv4, hosted her blog. In 2009 she was the head stylist for swedish idol, and in 2010 she became a household name when she competed in “dancing with the stars”.

deed, the Marxist social critic Walter Benjamin once accused the flâneur of being a “spy for the capitalists, on assignment in the realm of consumers.” But ultimately these blogs should strengthen the leveling and decentralizing forces that continue to dismantle the once dominant fashion pyramid. The time is long past when a few couturiers could dictate international style from the heights of Paris. Thanks to the growing popularity of this new medium, it seems likely that a leaderless multitude will increasingly influence fashion from the ground—or rather, pavement—up.

Elin Kling, Sweden’s most famous fashion blogger

Today Elin Kling is working as fashion director at her own fashion magazine styleby, founded by sweden’s largest media-house bonnier. She is also the first fashion-blogger in the world to be launching her own collection for h&m. The exclusive and unique collaboration will launch in spring 2011. Elin Kling is also the founder and partner of fashion networks – Sweden’s largest online fashion community, which she runs together with partner christian remröd. Elin Kling has since 2007 been running scandinavia’s largest fashionblog – Style by Kling.

Vini of halmstad all thrift store purchases I don’t really remember the last time I bought something brand new or at least that wasn’t already on sale. There are a lot of really great secondhand shops and vin-

Olivia of stockholm

tage stores that sell way more interesting clothes for nowhere near the price of brand names.

bag: meli melo, heels: mulberry I love to mix patterns and prints to personalize my look. Being bold with mixing pat-

travel ready? PRACTICALITY:

terns and textures also allows me to repeat a lot of statement pieces using different

Vini’s layers make this ensemble very wear-

layering or pairing to create the illusion of

able, and the jacket around his neck is eas-

multiple outfits.

ily accesible and keeps his hands free. Most importantly, the clothes are comfortable

travel ready? PRACTICALITY:

and durable, making roaming the streets easy. FASHIONABILITY:

The ability to use the same pieces in multiple ways is a lifesaver, but choosing the wrong or too many patterned pieces can make you look less fashion forward, and more like a bad upholstery job. FASHIONABILITY:

This grunge-inspired and solely secondhand look is popular around the globe right now with thrift stores popping up in even the smallest towns. TRY IT THIS WAY: If this much layering is scaring you off, start of by thrifting for the basics first: vintage

There’s no question here: Olivia is a fashion

T’s and flannel or jackets. Keep your eyes

hound. She mixes wildly printed pieces with

peeled for faux vintage imposters of dis-

traditional forms, and mixes the unique pat-

tressed looking designs printed on brand

terns with a classic bag. This look is defi-

new clothing items.

nitely fashion forward enough to take on the new hub of European fashion. TRY IT THIS WAY: Try mixing classic patterns first; punchy florals, stripes, or animal print. Pair a patterned pant with patterned heels and keep it simple on top. For more punch, add statement jewelry or a textured jacket, like Olivia’s feathered trim blazer.

Gustav of stockholm sweater: merino, bag: vintage The most important factors when I pick out clothes to wear is their functionality. I do a lot of walking around, so I want to look puttogether, but I also want to be comfortable and have everything I’m wearing serve a purpose.

travel ready? PRACTICALITY:

Carrying a durable and large bag like Gustav’s vintage parachute bag allows for jackets or souvineirs to be tucked away. This can also come in handy if traveling from hostel to hostel, when paired with a backpack you can fit all of your belongings on your back. FASHIONABILITY:

M.K. of uppsala

Gustav was right, his clothes are functional

dress: china doll boutique

casual street wear to more dressed up attire

I’m a sucker for punchy prints and lots of

drinks.

texture, and I would die for a killer pair of

TRY IT THIS WAY:

heels. I like finding cool online stores that carry one of a kind pieces since there aren’t too many boutiques in my town.

travel ready? PRACTICALITY:

M.K. looks great, and her look would transition really well from day to night, but is definitely more suitable for a warm climate with no chance of rain or a cooler temperature. And as much as we love her heels, walking is a huge part of the European lifestyle and may not be best for first time travellers. FASHIONABILITY:

Faux fur is big on the runways and contrasts so nicely with the heavy print on M.K.’s dress. The cutouts on her sides are also super fashionable and easily wearable. TRY IT THIS WAY: For a little less texture, try swapping the faux fur with a cropped leather jacket. The leather will still contrast the punchiness of

a bold dress.

and comfortable, but he looks very puttogether. This outfit easily transitions from suitable for a nice dinner or a night out for

If sporting a handheld bag isn’t your style, try an over-the-shoulder messenger bag which can also easily carry your belongings. A classic sweater with a dress shirt underneath it will allow you to transition from day to night with ease.

Elin Kling / Swedish fashion blogger

scandinavian. minimalistic. wearable.

Avi & Lydia of stockholm

Beyond Retro locations in stockholm and gothenburg

$$$$ Beyond Retro is one of Sweden’s first and most popular secondhand stores, now sporting four locations. The store sports wild accessories and bold outfits that are sure to be originals. The downside? The price of these unique items is sometimes equal to or more than brand new retail items.

Lisa Larsson bondegatan 48, stockholm

$$$$ If you’re looking for top of the line retro gear, Lisa Larsson is for you. Fashion buyers handpick hot vintage pieces so you don’t have to waste your valuable time abroad digging through a pile of near-trash. Of course you’ll be paying more for the preselected garments, but because they are chosen by professionals, you can guarantee that the pieces are both authentic and fashionable.

Myrorna throughout sweden

$$$$ The Swedish version of an American Goodwill or Salvation Army, Myrorna is a secondhand store run by charities. There are several locations across Sweden, so if you’re looking to waste some time between travels, one of these chain stores could be the place to go. Unfortunately, you’re more likely to have to do some digging to find the treasures you’re looking for amongst knitted pastel suits and high school t-shirts.

Thrifting in Sweden shopping the streets

WHILE HARDLY A NEW CONCEPT, THE MARKET FOR USED CLOTHING

BEYOND RETRO, JUDITS SECONDHAND, AND LISA LARSSON ARE SHOPS ON

HAS REALLY EXPLODED IN SWEDEN OVER THE PAST YEARS, TO THE

THE MORE EXPENSIVE END OF THE PRICE SCALE. In fact, today it is quite

POINT THAT SHOPPING SECOND-HAND HAS BECOME SOMETHING OF

possible to update your wardrobe with brand new items from high

A STATUS MARKER FOR THE HIPPEST AMONG US, AS A QUICK GLANCE

street stores for less than it would cost at these shops, although the

DOWN ANY STREET IN THE TRENDY SOFO DISTRICT IN STOCKHOLM

result won’t be nearly as retro chic, of course.

CAN CONFIRM. This is Vintage Central, where twenty-something hipsters bearing scarves and sweaters almost certainly

THE FACT THAT THE VINTAGE CLOTHES AT THESE STORES HAVE ALREADY

knitted before they were born flock with bohemian girls in

BEEN SELECTED BY BUYERS IS A LARGE PART OF THE REASON FOR THE HIGHER

worn artsy dresses that proudly show their age.

PRICES, and as Josefin Hagström points out, many customers appreciate not having to do all the work themselves, by picking through

IT’S ALSO THE PART OF STOCKHOLM WITH THE HIGHEST DENSITY OF

piles of used clothing with little merit. Arguably, though, for many

SECOND-HAND STORES PER BLOCK. Small vintage boutiques are

one of the main enjoyments of shopping for second-hand clothing

constantly popping up from out of nowhere to join estab-

is sifting through pounds of unwearable but hilarious rubbish before

lished chains such as Beyond Retro, Myrorna and Stadsmis-

being rewarded for your hunt with a real gem.

sionen as part of the Swedish capital’s ever-expanding possibilities for shopping second-hand.

SO IF YOU WOULD RATHER SAVE A FEW EXTRA BUCKS, AND DON’T MIND PUTTING IN A LITTLE EXTRA TIME AND EFFORT, the chains Myrorna and

“I THINK THE ATTRACTION LIES IN THE POSSIBILITY OF FINDING

Stadsmissionen, both run by charities and available in several loca-

MORE PERSONAL CLOTHES SECOND-HAND THAN YOU CAN IN REGU-

tions throughout Sweden, may be just the thing.

LAR SHOPS,” explains Josefin Hagström, Beyond Retro’s press assistant, when asked about Swedes’ fascination with used

DON’T WANT TO PUT IN ANY TIME AT ALL, AND PREFERABLY NOT LEAVE YOUR

clothing. She notes that if you want to look for your own

HOUSE EITHER? Thanks to the wonders of modern technology, there is

unique style, second-hand stores have more to offer.

an option for you too: Blocket and Tradera are two major Swedish websites of the eBay variety, where you can buy everything - and I

THE ALLURE OF FINDING A SKIRT YOU’LL NEVER RISK INADVERTENTLY

mean everything - including an astonishing array of cast-off clothing.

MATCHING WITH YOUR FRIEND’S AT A PARTY, OR A JACKET UNLIKE ANY ON OFFER AT MORE MAINSTREAM HIGH STREET SHOPS, IS EASY

IF YOU GOT A WELL-MEANT BUT UNFORTUNATE-LOOKING SWEATER FROM

TO UNDERSTAND. Are there any other advantages to going for

GRANDMA LAST CHRISTMAS, THE INTERNET IS ALSO THE RIGHT PLACE TO

second-hand clothes? “You get a chance to re-use old things

GET RID OF IT. Simply sign up for an account of your own, and within

that come with a history, if you’re interested in that sort of

minutes all your discarded clothes can be on the market!

thing,” says Josefin Hagström, and goes on to point out the eco-friendly Brownie points that accompany any foray into the world of vintage - shopping second-hand is far less damaging to the environment than buying new items.

TRAVEL TIDBIT IF YOU END UP ACQUIRING A BUNCH OF NEW-TO-YOU DUDS, MAIL THEM HOME SO YOU CAN AVOID TOTING THE EXTRA LUGGAGE.

STRAAT MARKTEN VAN AMSTERDAM A GUIDE TO STREET MARKETS IN A’DAM BLOEMENMARKT WATERLOOPLEIN NOORDERMARKT

ON SINGEL BETWEEN MUNTPLEIN + KONINGSPLEIN IN THE SOUTHERN CANAL BELT

bloemenmarkt singel canal flower market M T W TH F S S OPEN CLOSED

9.30 – 5.00

Amsterdam’s famed Bloemenmarkt, or Flower Market, is known for being the world’s only floating flower market. The market itself consists of fiftteen booths stacked high with countless variations of flower bulbs, seeds, and grown flowers ready for planting. Many of these floursists and general gardening shops also carry a wide range of souvenir items for purchase. As a whole, the Bloemenmarkt is one of the main suppliers of flowers to the surrounding areas in Amsterdam.

THE FLOWER MARKET began in 1862, and is nestled between both historic and modern structures within the city. The area attracts a large number of tourists, as well as locals. Touring through the one-block floating shopping range won’t take a large chunk of time, and is a great place to consider when looking for a quick form of both entertaining and historic entertainment. When you’ve had your floral fix, the surrounding cheese shops and coffe houses are ideal for taking it easy and collecting your thoughts, OR you can put on your big girl pants and explore a piece of historic Amsterdam.

TRAVEL TIDBIT FLOWERS,

PLANTS

SEEDS

NEED TO HAVE A STAMP ON THE PACKET THAT INDICATES IT HAS BEEN CLEARED THROUGH CUSTOMS; THIS WILL ALLOW YOU

CROSS

COUNTRY

BORDERS WITH YOUR FLOWER PACKET SAFELY.

waterlooplein the old jewish quarter flea market M T W TH F S S OPEN CLOSED

9.00 – 5.30 / S 8.30 – 5.30

BASICALLY, the market itself is a giant bazaar filled with all things good. It’s best known for it’s wide selection of new and second hand clothing, old military garb + memoriabilia, old books of every variety, video tapes, digital versatile discs, electronics, tacky treasures, + a ton of pretty junk.

ROUGHLY 300 stands are situated along the Leprozengracht and Houtgracht canals, circa 1880. A Jewish market was created in 1893, but ended in 1941 with the persecution of Jews by Nazi Germany. The Waterlooplein market was reborn after World War II, first as a general market, then a trading place connected with hippie and magic youth cultures from all over Europe.

TODAY, the market has subtle touristy vibes, but is most often full of activity and well worth the visit.The oldest and arguably most interesting bazaar market in Amsterdam is guaranteed to have something irresistable for every trendy hipster youth (even cheap cans of spray paint for the true rebel).

15 MINUTES FROM THE DAM SQUARE, EAST. LOCATED BEHIND THE RED LIGHT DISTRICT IN DIRECT PROXIMITY OF THE REMBRANDT HOUSE.

noordermarkt jordaan neighborhood organic farmer’s market M T W TH F S S OPEN CLOSED

9.00 – 3.00

The Noordermarkt, formally known as” Boerenmarkt op de Noorde markt (Bilogical Fresh Food Market)” is Amsterdam’s trendiest organic fresh food farmer’s market. On Saturday morning, the square plays host to to numerous people selling and buying organic, unique, and healthy foods. The market began in 1987 when Amsterdam residents became increasingly interested in hard to find healthy alternatives. At the market, you’re likely to find natural made cheese, biological eggs, fresh fish, bread, honey, herbs, spices, nuts, home made cakes, mushrooms, fruits, flowers, and even a stand serving pancakes.

VISITORS + EXPLORERS are invited

10 MINUTES FROM THE WESTERKERK + ANNE FRANK HOUSE

to take in the lively yet quaint atmosphere of the market on Saturday mornings, and will find themselves truly immersed in every day Amsterdam culture. Observe the people, learn about new foods, and maybe even try a few.

“NATURAL MADE CHEESE BIOLOGICAL EGGS FRESH FISH BREAD, HONEY HERBS, SPICES NUTS, HOME MADE CAKES MUSHROOMS FRUITS, FLOWERS + EVEN A STAND SERVING PANCAKES.”

THE KINGDOM OF Ya sure, you want to go to Europe somewhere and be adventurous, but really thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not that crazy. You know you want to out cool everyone with your travels, so why not add a stop in Africa to the list?

A SNAPSHOT OF MOROCCO That’s where Morocco comes in. As far as countries go, it’s the coolest of cool. Morocco is an ethnically diverse country with rich culture. Through Moroccan history, it has hosted many people coming from East (Carthaginians, Jews and Arabs), South (Sub-Saharan Africans) and North (Romans,Vandals, Andalusians). All those civilizations have had an impact on the social structure of Morocco. It conceived various forms of beliefs, from paganism, Judaism, and Christianity to Islam. Since independence, an artistic growth has taken off in the fields of painting and sculpture, popular music, amateur theatre, and filmmaking. The Moroccan National Theatre (founded 1956) offers regular productions of Moroccan and French dramatic works. Art and music festivals take place throughout the country during summer months, among them the World Sacred Music Festival at Fes. Festival des The Festival brings together performers from every corner of our planet for a week of artistic show.Younger Moroccans enjoy raï, a style of plain-speaking Algerian music that incorporates traditional sounds with those of Western rock, Jamaican reggae, and Moroccan popular music. Morocco has set among its top priorities the protection of its diverse legacy and the preservation of its cultural heritage. Culturally speaking, Morocco has always been successful in combining its Berber, Jewish and Arabic cultural heritage with external influences such as the French and the Spanish and, during the last decades, the Anglo-American lifestyles.

Morocco has set among its top priorities the protection of its diverse legacy and the preservation of its cultural heritage.

Moroccan cuisine has long been considered as one of the most diversified cuisines in the world. This is a result of the centuries-long interaction of Morocco with the outside world. Spices are used extensively in Moroccan food. While spices have been imported to Morocco for thousands of years, many ingredients, like saffron from Tiliouine, mint and olives from Meknes, and oranges and lemons from Fez, are homegrown. Chicken is the most widely eaten meat in Morocco. The most commonly eaten red meat in Morocco is beef; lamb is preferred but is relatively expensive. Couscous is the most famous Moroccan dish along with pastilla, tajine, and harira. The most popular drink is green tea with mint. Moroccan cuisine has long been considered as one of the most diversified cuisines in the world. This is a result of the centuries-long interaction of Morocco with the outside world. Spices are used extensively in Moroccan food. While spices have been imported to Morocco for thousands of years, many ingredients, like saffron from Tiliouine, mint and olives from Meknes, and oranges and lemons from Fez, are home-grown. Chicken is the most widely eaten meat in Morocco.The most commonly eaten red meat in Morocco is beef; lamb is preferred but is relatively expensive. Couscous is the most famous Moroccan dish along with pastilla, tajine, and harira. The most popular drink is green tea with mint.

From the moment you arrive in Marrakesh, you’ll get the distinct feeling you’ve left something behind – a toothbrush or socks, maybe? But no, what you’ll be missing in Marrakesh is predictability and all sense of direction. Never mind: you’re better off without them here. Marrakesh is too packed with mind-boggling distractions and labyrinthine alleyways to adhere to boring linear logic. If you did have a destination, you’d only be waylaid by snake charmers, out-of-control donkey carts, trendy silver leather poufs and ancient Berber cures for everything from relationships to rent. Start at the action-packed Djemaa el-Fna, and if you can tear yourself away from the castanet-clanging water-sellers and turbaned potion-sellers, head into Marrakesh’s maze of covered market streets. Marrakesh’s souqs are like a cold riad plunge pool on a scorching July day: nothing quite prepares you for the shock. Dive in headfirst at any street headed north off the Djemaa el-Fna, and with any luck you’ll emerge exhilarated and triumphant some hours later, carpet in tow. While you’re in the heart of the Medina, you may come upon a palace museum, stay in a riad guest-house, and venture a dish of piping-hot snails. But it’s worth leaving the charms of the old city occasionally for dinner, drinks, art galleries and fixed-price boutique shopping in the ville nouvelle. Go with the flow, and become an honorary Marrakshi bahja (joyous one). The Djemma el-Fna square in Marrakech is full of activity day and night and sitting in a cafe is where you take it all in. THE main attraction. Full of story tellers, water sellers, healers and who knows what else. Everyone attracts an audience, especially the Moroccans. In the evening, it gets even busier with workers setting up their food stalls in anticipation of the huge crowds of locals and tourists coming for dinner. It has to be the world’s largest open air restaurant, a sign that you are sure to enjoy.

If you did have a destination, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d only be waylaid by snake charmers, out-of-control donkey carts, trendy silver leather poufs and ancient Berber cures for everything from relationships to rent.

Marrakech is too packed with mind-boggling distractions and labyrinthine alleyways to adhere to boring linear logic. 63

*YOU ARE NOT IN ANY REAL PERIL

TAKE A RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE

AKA... A CAMEL You’ll probably hum the theme to Lawrence of Arabia. It will be amazing.

Take a break from the city hustle and take a journey into the Sahara Desert. The Sahara Desert is an enormous adventure playground situated south of the European landmass, and for the many hundreds of thousands of four-wheel-drive junkies cruising the black top roads of Europe, it is probably the best and only option to cut your teeth. A new and rare experience is just the tale you are looking for to tell your friends about back home. How could they possibly not be jealous of your adventurous ways once you take a ride on a camel in exotic Africa? LET’S SAY THIS UP FRONT: Riding a camel is one of the most uncomfortable experiences you can imagine. Now that that’s out of the way, I should also tell you that riding a camel is fantastically fun and bound to be one of your favorite memories from your trip to Morocco. Not much can top watching the sun set over the Sahara as you make your way to a Berber tent astride a camel or listening to the waves crash against the rocks in Essaouira as you meander down the beach, swaying atop your steed. You’ll probably hum the theme to Lawrence of Arabia. It will be amazing.

It will also be uncomfortable. The width of a camel’s body, coupled with the precarious place you must take on its back, the near waddle of its gait as it sways back and forth, and the general disdain the animal usually has for its passenger all work against your efforts to cultivate an essence of relaxation and comfort. This is okay, though, because you’re on a camel in the Sahara Desert, one of the most unlikely and wonderful things you’ll find yourself doing. Being a little off-kilter is more than worth it. It’s best to know certain things before you embark on your journey, however. In an effort to educate the future camel-riders of the world, we present the following list of tips, in no particular order, on how to survive a camel ride:

TIPS FOR THE RIDE 1. Listen to what your guide tells you. Camels are not horses. Mounting a camel is entirely different from mounting a horse, and it’s just as awkward to dismount. The best thing you can do is whatever your guide advises. Ignore him at your own peril.*

2. Wear long pants and socks. The motion of the camel causes your pants to creep slowly up your calves, exposing your legs to the sun, sand and camel. Make sure you’re slathered in sunscreen, and wear socks to prevent any contact itchiness that may occur.

3. Bring a camera and/or iPod, but make sure they’re tethered… You’re on a camel so of course you want pictures. If you want to travel with an iPod, it should be queued up to the Indiana Jones soundtrack. Make sure you’ve got both tied to you, though. While it’s simple enough to stop so you can retrieve a fallen camera, camels are tall creatures, and any fall will be a long one. Keep things tethered so you won’t be the ditz of the group.

4. Don’t forget the aspirin. While half an hour on a camel may not sound like much, it can be a lifetime on your hip joints or your knees—especially if they’re weak or prone to injury. Camel rides certainly won’t do any lasting damage, but the contorted stance they force may cause some minor discomfort if you ride for more than 30 minutes. Carry a light painkiller like Tylenol or Aspirin with you just to be on the safe side.

LIFE ABROAD THINK YOU’RE READY TO MOVE ABROAD? So you’ve just graduated. No job. No responsibilities. If ever you were going to do something entirely spontaneous, now would be the time. We’ve all heard of young post-grads hitch-hiking their way through Europe for a few months, but what if you want to make the transition abroad more permanent? This checklist will help on you successfully achieve that big leap. In this issue of Vale!, I will outline how to relocate to Spain.

by ERIN ZINGRÉ

P R E PA R AT I O N

INVESTIGAR

Research, research, research! Emigrating to Spain needs to be planned well and thought about carefully. Take your time over this life changing decision and make sure that you have researched how to move to Spain, the property buying process, different areas, and that you can meet your cost of living.

Visit Spain. Research online is no substitute for visiting the country.

Take a basic Spanish course, and begin to learn Spanish as soon as possible. This is essential if you want to find a job easily in Spain, and it will make daily life much easier. Decide in which part of Spain you would like to live, because different parts of Spain speak different languages. Spanish (español)—officially recognized in the constitution as Castilian (castellano)—is the official language of the entire country, and it is the right and duty of every Spaniard to know the language. The constitution also establishes that “all other Spanish languages”—that is, all other languages of Spain—will also be official in their respective autonomous communities if the “richness of the distinct linguistic modalities of Spain represents a patrimony which will be the object of special respect and protection.” The other official languages of Spain, co-official with Spanish are: Basque (euskera) in the Basque Country and Navarre, Catalan (català) in Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, and in the Valencian Community, where its distinct modality of the language is officially known as Valencian (valencià), and Galician (gallego) in Galicia.

A P R E N D E R E S PA Ñ O L

¿DÓNDE QUIERES VIVIR?

Decide where and how you want to live to resolve how to move and what to bring. If you want to move with all your belongings, the easiest way is to contact a specialist in long distance moving. Be aware that most flats in Spain are rented fully or semi-furnished; take that into consideration before you move all your belongings. If you are bringing fewer possessions, you can move by plane. Make sure to pack all of your personal documents. Such documents include at least your passport, birth certificate, marriage certificates, and medical history. Make at least three copies of each and store them in a safe place.

Consider what type of work you will be looking for before you move to Spain. If possible, find gainful employment in Spain before you move. If you are planning to start a business in Spain, then you will want to find a Spanish lawyer who speaks English and can correspond easily via email and phone.

7 EL VISADO

EL TRABAJO

If needed, apply for your Spain visa. If you gather all of your paperwork and present it to a Spanish consulate in the United States, then it may take as little as a week to process and issue your visa. Otherwise, you may have to move to Spain, wait up to four months for it to process, return home to pick it up, and then come back to Spain.

ASÍ QU MUDA ESPAÑ

UE TE AS A ÑA S o y o u ’r e m o v i n g t o S p a i n . . .

LA ASISTENCIA MÉDICA

EL BANCO

Before moving to Spain, figure out how you will cover your health costs. If you are giving up your home residency, then you will probably have to look to a Spanish company or health insurance for expats. Take care to continue paying any home-country healthcare, as most travel health insurance providers only supplement that which you already have for free through the public system. Check with your public healthcare providers that there are no problems staying longer than 6 months. Spain’s healthcare system, if you qualify, is quite good and free.

Find a bank in Spain, and set up an account. If you are not moving to Spain permanently, you will probably want to keep a foreign bank account and maybe your credit card account (if keeping your home residency status). Find places that don’t charge extra for international ATM withdrawals and credit card use. Check with your home bank as to whether they have any problems with your account status as a non-resident. Renew your driver’s license or passport, if they are about to expire. This is really important!

Book your flight and schedule relocation movers. Book-

Sort out your mail. Go to the post office and set up a redirect for your mail for as long as you think is necessary.

Find a place to stay. Before you’ve actually moved to Spain, this could be difficult. You may want to look into rental flats/apartments by contracting an agency to take care of this for you. On the other hand, many long-term rental flats can be found if you know where and how to search and speak some Spanish (this will save you a lot of money, probably around 20%–50% on rent prices). You will need about two weeks to a month to find a longer-term flat rental or property during this time.

COMO SU CASA N O H AY D O S

COGER SUS COSAS

ing these as far ahead of schedule (and confirming it) will save you a lot of headaches.

Clean house and pack. Two months before you go: start to sort your belongings and sell or give away anything you do not want to keep. This always takes longer than you think it will! Find an international removals company and start to buy some boxes. It is not worthy trying to save money on boxes—you will want double thickness international freight ones.

TIP 1

When dealing with any facet of Spanish bureaucracy, remember The Law of Falta Uno: that however many documents and photocopies you take along, there will always be ONE missing. Always double and triple check that you have every piece of paper you might need, and possibly even a few more that you don’t.

TIP 2

If you need to attract the barperson’s attention, a politely raised finger and a timid “Perdone” or “Disculpe” (“excuse me”) won’t get your very far. Eschew decades of ingrained politeness and yell:“¡Oiga!” (“Listen!”). That should do it; you’ll fit right in, and no-one will mutter anything about “manners” or “upbringing.” Forthright and direct is okay. Just remember that you can make your intonation sound polite—and smile.

TIP 2

Remember, time is relative. In Spain la mañana lasts until about 14:00. La tarde (the afternoon) stretches to nightfall. There is no word for evening, and the wee hours of the night have their own special name: la madrugada.

TIP 4

Never refer to catalan, valenciano, or gallego as dialects of “Spanish” or Castilian—unless you want to get right up the nose of a Catalan, Valenciano, Gallego big time. They are all languages in their own right, and are co-official with castellano in the autonomous communities in which they are spoken.

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN YOU ARRIVE

FASHION | Packing Light

PACKING LIGHT THE FIVE CARDINAL RULES OF TRAVELING CLOTHES: 1) NOTHING WHITE; 2) NOTHING THAT WRINKLES; 3) CLOTHES YOU CAN LAYER; 4) LOTS OF POCKETS; AND 5) VERY FEW.

ASIDE FROM A GUNG-HO, HEALTHY ATTITUDE,

TRUST ME, YOU’LL BE THANKFUL LATER

the most important factor that will make or break your trip is your luggage and how you pack it. Pack for ultimate mobility, versatility, and necessity. When in doubt, leave it at home.

when you easily shoulder you bag and zip off to your hotel while the guy who sat next to you on the plane gets a hernia just trying to get his luggage out of the airport.

LAY OUT EVERY-THING YOU THINK YOU’LL NEED

REMEMBER: CLOTHES TAKE UP THE MOST ROOM

to take and consider the pile. Put away any item that’s not really necessary. Take whatever remains, pack half of it, and leave the other half at home—you won’t need it. Here are some rules:

in your luggage, so be stingy with what you take. Believe me, it’s easier to do a bit of laundry in your room every few nights than lug around a ton of stuff. ONLY YOUR IMMEDIATE TRAVELING COMPANIONS

IF IT DOESN’T ALL FIT IN ONE CARRY-ON SIZED PACK AND DAYPACK, YOU’VE OVERPACKED. IF YOU CAN’T LIFT IT OVER YOUR HEAD AND HOLD IT THERE FOR 10 SECONDS,YOU’VE OVERPACKED. IF YOU CAN’T SHOULDER YOUR LOAD AND WALK FIVE TIMES AROUND THE BLOCK WITHOUT BREAKING A SWEAT, YOU’VE OVERPACKED (AND SHOULD PROBABLY ALSO HIT THE GYM—EUROPE IS AN AEROBIC WORKOUT AND YOU NEED TO BE READY).

TRAVEL TIDBIT PACK SEVERAL DAYS IN ADVANCE, CRITICALLY EVALUATE EACH ITEM. AIM FOR 50-PERCENT REDUCTION.

will know you’ve been wearing the same outfit for the past three countries. Socks, T-shirts, and underwear—the clothes that ripen quickly—are the easiest items to wash out and dry overnight. In truth, you can wear the same pair of pants for quite a while before they begin walking around on their own in search of the laundromat. IF YOU FIND YOURSELF RUNNING OUT OF ROOM,

stop at any post office to ship home the personal items you’ve found you didn’t need, or just before flying home, mail your dirty laundry to yourself. This way, you can carry your new purchases instead of entrusting them to foreign postal systems.

3 TIPS FOR PACKING LIGHT ABROAD

Stick to a neutral color scheme to avoid the need to pack multiple colors of shoes and accessories. Also think in layers: jackets, light tees, and scarves.

Plan to do some light laundry in your hotel room or at a local laundromat to reduce the amount of socks and underwear needed.

Try to fit all of your items in a single backpack to avoid hauling heavy luggage around city streets and on subways and trains.

a travellerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suitcase: packed right

light waterproof jacket

1 pair of shorts

watch

3 t-shirts

dress shoes

sunglasses

2 button up shirts

casual shoes

ipod

1 sweatshirt

rain boots

sunscreen

1 pair of jeans

wallet

digital camera

FLIGHT PRICES THAT WON’T MAKE YOU CRY (unless they are tears of joy)

RYANAIR

HOUSING | Hostels We Like

HOSTELS WE LIKE $ COST

X LOCATION

:) RATING

After a long day of traveling and a night on the town, you are going to want some well-deserved Z’s. We are here to help you find the perfect place to crash. $

HOSTEL: MuchoMadrid

Their location, in the heart of the city center, on Gran via, is close to the best shopping and nightlife spots in a city that never sleeps. Some of the most important clubs in the city are nearby. MuchoMadrid is also near famous sites: Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace, the Royal Opera and within walking distance of many more. And if you’re hungry for tapas you can easily reach Latina, the city’s neighborhood for eating and drinking Madrileño stile, on foot.

MADRID, SPAIN

HOSTEL: Riad Layla Rouge

Riad Layla Rouge wants you to get comfy in Marrakech; to feel safe and happy; imaginative and inspired – they combine a hostel spirit and atmosphere with that little bit of indulgence that you find in a luxury riad. Share your stories of travel and life while laughing over tea and cake with other guests. Whether you are travelling for the first time, or have done so for years – enjoy the rhythm of a city that transforms with the cycle of the sun.When you stay at Layla Rouge you can’t be anywhere else but the Wonderland of Marrakech.

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

TRAVEL TIDBIT These sites provide alternative places to stay. wwoof.com: In return for volunteer help, WWOOF hosts offer food, accommodation and opportunities to learn about organic lifestyles. couchsurfing.org: Hosts across the world offer free places to stay. This experience is culturally enriching for both the host and traveller.

HOSTEL: KEX

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REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

HOSTEL: Gustaf af Klint.

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STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

It’s the Icelandic word for “biscuit” and new social hostel in Reykjavik. What’s not to love? Housed in an old biscuit factory in the heart of Reykjavik, KEX is just steps from all the bars, clubs, and music venues that give this city its legendary reputation. It’s also a painless distance from late night munchies and a mind-boggling array of coffee houses, shops, and tourist attractions. Using salvaged materials and found objects from various sources, KEX is an organic concept blending Iceland’ s past with a modern, international twist. The raw industrial spaces and vintage furnishings combine to give it a homey, eclectic feel.

This youth hostel offers 4-bed and 2-bed cabins and a dormatory with 24 beds. Breakfast, lunch and dinner can be enjoyed in their resturant on the ship. On warm summer evenings you can also sit on the deck and admire the wonderful view of Stockholm city over a drink. The youth hostel is located close to the underground, about 250 meters from Slussen underground station. When staying at Gustaf af Klint you have resturants, pubs, theatres, shopping - well almost anything just around the corner! Gröna Lund (the Tivoli) and Skansen (the zoo) is located within sight. It is also close to the Royal castle and the Old Town.

HOSTEL: Stayokay Amsterdam Vondelpark

Stay in the green heart of Amsterdam. Stayokay Amsterdam Vondelpark; your best bed in low budget accommodation.This modern Hostelling International hostel is situated right in the middle of the famous Vondelpark, within walking distance of the Van Gogh- and the Rijksmuseum and at crawling distance from the Leidseplein with its famous nightlife.Consume culture, shop till you drop and dance the night away in Amsterdam! The hostel includes a stunning view over the park.

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

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COMING IN JUNE

POHNPEI, MICRONESIA CUISINE Learn about the unique food recipes that incorporate rice which is Micronesia’s speciality food.

MOVING TO LISBON, PORTUGAL Spread across hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo; Lisbon offers all the delights expected of Portugal’s star attraction, with a fuse of other European capitals.

PUNJAB, INDIA STREET STYLE Update your style with unique Indian street clothes that is are classy and comfortable.

MARKETS IN KOLLO, NIGER Indulge in homegrown delights with the markets in Kollo, Niger. The food supply at the markets is the main sustainable for 90% of households their.

URBAN STYLE FROM EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND Scotland has its own distinctive culture and friendly people. Going out to UK night clubs in towns and cities is always a fun experience.

INDIA PORTUGAL SCOTLAND NIGER MICRONESI