Northern Creatives Issue 1

Page 1

Northern Creatives

Issue 1

CELEBRATION


Contents Northern Creators About 3-4

Study 34

Ellie O’Neill discusses her sustainable knitwear brand 31-37

The circular economy

“Reducing our levels of consumption will not be a sacrafice but a bonus if we simply redefine the meaning of the word success”

Exploring the meaning behind this new found economy 5-6

Many Definitions 7-10

The White T-Shirt Company We talk to Penny about her pefect white t-shirts 38-44

Changing times Think piece The world as we know it today 45-52

NOVOCASTRIAN

A vision into

furniture brand NOVOCASTRAIN

David Wann

11-21 The Journey An insightful look into the Journey coffee shop 22-28

Zara Think Piece Big high street brands are beginning to change 29-30

Recyke y’Bike An admirable charity helping locals in Newcastle and beyond 53-59

Love it Love it Love it Ruth encourages parents to really love children’s clothing and not just until it doesn’t fit anymore 60-64

Global Warming The Hoover Dam 65-71

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Northern Creatives Northern Creatives is a website and magazine about different creatives, retailers, charities and designers in the North East that are embracing sustainability within their work. Based on the circular economy, interviews have been conducted and photo-shoots created in order to celebrate the true talents that lie within the North East. Showing their raw passion for sustainability personally and in their work. Northern Creatives first issue is based on celebrating the different sections of the circular economy, from designers and creators, companies that are recycling and reusing, to the manufacturing processes within local retail brands. It aims to celebrate these individuals and get them talked about, it is all about showing off the amazing work they produce. Sustainability can mean different things to everyone, Northern Creatives highlights these meanings through different forms of businesses. During each interview every individual was asked, what does sustainability mean to you?

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The

Circular economy Think Piece

The circular economy is about embracing sustainability. It is an alternative economy to the traditional make, use and dispose system we are all so familiar with. This is about keeping resources in use for as long as possible, extract the maximum value from them whilst they are in use and then recover and regenerate the materials once they have reached the end of their life. It is focused on economic benefits, UK business could

A changing world

benefit by up to ÂŁ21 billion per year through low cost or no improvements in the efficient use of resources. The circular economy is based around retailers using less packaging and waste along the whole supply chain. Reusing, repairing and recycling old things we do not need or things

The circular economy is about embracing sustainability.

that could be used for another purpose. Recycling the waste that we do not need or use, instead of just throwing it out. Designing and manufacturing in a way that does not harm the environment and creating transparent supply chains

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TRANSPARENT SUPPLY CHAINS

LONGEVITY a long duration of individual life. length of life. Long life; great duration of life: Long duration or continuance.

traceability is essential for firms that seek to measure the environmental footprint of their products. A fully transparent supply chain extends visibility and enables a true farm-to-fork view of the path supplies. This captures the extent to which information about the companies, suppliers and sourcing locations is readily available to end-users and other companies in the supply chain.

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REUSE

RECYCLE

Reuse is the action or practice of using something again. more than once. Reintroduction of a by-product or waste material as an input into a manufacturing process, usually without any physical or chemical change.

convert (waste) into reusable material. return (material) to a previous stage in a cyclic process. use again. It is an alternative to “conventional� waste disposal that can save material and help lower greenhouse gas emissions.

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Interview

NOVOCASTRIAN A look into the finest quality and naturally British furniture

Design

“What we do have on our side is longevity. Our pieces are built to outlast their owners."

Started as a little project run by Richard,

thousands of industry professionals, they recently

Mark and Dean, Richard who has a degree in

exhibited at the London and Northern Design

architecture and Mark a graphic designer started

Festivals 2016. Today based in Washington their

a furniture project, NOVOCASTRIAN. Early on

workshop is packed with metals and flying sparks,

Richy’s brother, Dean was brought in on the

along with beautifully handcrafted furniture.

conversation, as an industrially trained metal

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worker, he would complete the team. With a

Each piece of work must have a meaning

robust set of complementary skills, they could

for an inspiration

design and manufacture in-house from the start.

“Our first core value is one of quality. Our designs

After overwhelming reviews and sales from

are built to last, and this is almost certainly the

their first showing which was in front of

underlying industrial influence in our work.

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The quality we aim for is not just in the construction

“We seek to reveal the inherent beauty in those

however, it’s in the design itself, the choice of

materials often overlooked. One of the key

materials and the level of finishing. Each piece of

materials we work with is Cumbrian slate. Most

work must have a meaning for an inspiration, a

think of slate as roof tile, that dull, grey, heavily

process, an endpoint, and us. A coffee table is a

textured surface which quietly protects your

coffee table, but it can also tell the story of how

home from rain. Many are surprised therefore at

the materials, which create it, have been queried,

the incredible beauty revealed when the slate is

smelted, welded and polished to create the final

honed to a smooth finish. The materials we use

object. The final core value is of authenticity. We

are not particularly sustainable; we cut steel and

not only source our materials and manufacture

brass. The production methods are certainly not

our products in the area we grew up, but we

the most environmentally friendly. What we do

regularly call upon the region to inspire us.”

have on our side is longevity. Our pieces are built to outlast their owners. We hope

Sustainability is now such an overarching

that they are sold, resold, gifted, adopted

phrase that it’s very difficult to pinpoint

and

inherited

through

many

generations.

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In the short term, we’re beaten hands down by

Each of our creations is a blend

minimalist at heart, and enjoys extracting rhythm

a low-cost piece of furniture made from recycled

of

and forming the architectural elements.”

chipboard, but in 50 years time we don’t expect

“Our native North East is a strong source of

that it’ll be our products that are consigned

inspiration. This inspiration manifests itself in

We hope to be able to reach our potential

to a landfill.”

a couple of ways; the first is in the structures,

as a business

the relics of an industrial past. The work of

“We hope to continue to inspire buyers to invest

All of our materials are sourced from the

Peter Zumthor stands out, not only his buildings

in meaningful designs, and to inspire creators

UK

but equally his writings. The way he describes

to create meaningful designs, particularly our

“Almost all of our materials are sourced from

environments as immersive sensory experiences,

fellow northerners. We hope to play our part in a

the UK, and often even closer. The slate we

how they sound, how things feel to the touch,

reawakening of the North East’s design industry,

use is sourced from Cumbria for instance,

how they smell. As a graphic designer much of

hope to see it become competitive globally.”

only around 75 miles from our workshop!”

what inspires Mark is of course graphical. He’s a

form,

materiality,

and

process.

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Interview

The Journey “ In the short term, we’re beaten hands down by a low-cost piece of

Adam Laing discusses The Journey, a coffee shop in the heart of Newcastle.

furniture made from recycled chipboard, but in 50 years time we don’t expect that it’ll be our products that are consigned to a landfill.” NOVOCASTRIAN

“The aim is to have it so we focus on all sustainable transport, cycling and walking being the main two."

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Recycle and Reuse Transparent Supply Chain

It is a cold November evening at The Journey, a

The Journey is a project put together by Sustrans,

coffee shop adjacent to The Laing Art Gallery.

a national charity for sustainable transport. Within

The shop has started to calm down as the trade

the same building is the charity Recyke y’Bike, the

for the day begins to close. Adam is sat at the

company runs as two different establishments

bar eating his lunch at 4 pm, he jokes that he is

but are centred in the same building and often

always last to get lunch. The coffee shop is full

work together. The Journey was built to be the

of refurbished bikes, maps and pictures. The

official tourist information hub of Newcastle. A

smell of well-made coffee hits you as you walk

travel centre that doesn’t only repair old bikes,

in. It has a homely, inviting feel about it. I was

but one where customers can have a coffee

excited to learn about what this proactive charity

and gain knowledge on how to make their lives

does having heard such great things about it.

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Adam who owns the café says, “The aim is to

goes as far back as the roastery buying from the

Customers go into the café to find out ways to

“I think it’s just we live in a time where there’s

have it so we focus on all sustainable transport,

importer, who buys directly from the farm. With

become sustainable, they advise walking and

not that much money around. So I think the idea

cycling and walking being the main two.” Adam is

so few links, he can keep his beans competitive.

cycle routes as well as help any customers who

that there’s not much money around, the whole

have something specific they want to achieve.

idea of consumerism can sort of come down a bit

Sustainability to Adam is more personal than just

Adam says that originally there was meant to be

and people are more used to saving what they’ve

his business, “As much as I can I’ll be sustainable,

a Sustrans rep in the shop to advise customers

got. Keeping hold of what they’ve got, reusing

Adam took over the café in July 2016, having

everyone recycles now so I think sustainability is a

about walks, different modes of transport and

as much as they can. It’s becoming a normality

worked for the previous owner, he still holds the

natural thing that everyone should just think about

cycle rides, however, since cutbacks Adam does his

which is brilliant, to be honest.”

same ethos and values. “So I’m still using the

all the time. It’s not hard to do, I cycle everywhere,

best to advise the customers as much as he can.

same beans and I’ve still got the same ethos with

I walk everywhere, I try my best not to get public

“So myself and Peter from Recyke y’Bike, being

The passion Adam has for sustainability is

everything that I do. So we can trace the coffee

transport as much as possible.” While Adam is

keen cyclists and walkers ourselves, we give as

inspiring, it pours out as he speaks and the love

from the roasters right back to the farm. It’s not fair

trying to be as sustainable as possible both at work

much information as we can with any needs that

he has for his café and cycling is clear. Coffee is

trade but fair trade can sometimes be detrimental

and home, he empathises that he knows when he

meet the door, with the maps, the routes and the

always going to be a popular social scene, but The

to some farmers, these farmers actually get paid

gets a big delivery in vans it’s not as sustainable as

local area as far as we can.” With more customers

Journey Café really does show how it can be done

about five times as much.” Adam explains that he

he would like. He does, however, explain that for

becoming sustainably aware, Adam explains

sustainably while being inspirational as well.

can keep his coffee at a reasonable price as it only

the smaller deliveries he has a giant cargo bike!

that The Journey has seen a rise in customers,

also a keen cyclist; he often pops in next door to Reckye y’Bike to give a hand fixing up the bikes.

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Zara Think Piece

Zara’s place in the circular economy Photography by Zara

Fast-fashion brand Zara has new collections and pieces coming in every two weeks. It is, therefore, easy to see why consumers throw away clothes regularly, in order to purchase new ones. Clothes that have not yet reached the end of their life, and are still in a good condition. However, there is good news…

In 2015 Inditex, Zara’s owner started a closed loop approach, meaning it productions and operations is more sustainable. The project launched in 2015 and it looks to reuse and recycle all of Inditex garments. It began with a pilot in 37 Zara stores in five countries, Spain, UK, Denmark, Netherlands, and Sweden. Bins were placed for the collection of clothing, footwear and accessories that consumers no longer wanted.

They are then donated to non-profit partners such as Cáritas or Red

Cross. Inditex collected 5.7 tonnes of items in 2015 from stores and 37 tonnes from logistics centres and offices. Proving just how much consumers throw away!

Inditex’s Green to Wear technologies, which includes water recycling, and factories with wet processes that primary fabric must earn a grade of A or B in Inditex’s environment sustainability standard. In 2015 the brand started reusing packaging for customer deliveries as part of its 2020 goal of zero landfill waste. For the textiles that cannot be recycled, they have partnered with “social organisations”, universities and leading companies in the segment. Instead of publishing marketing images, the brand is promoting the in-store recycling bins. It is a collaborative art project entitled, “Boxes with a Past”, offering artists 100% recycled boxes.

Although Join Life is a step in the right direction from Zara it is difficult to see past the mass of fast fashion collections they continually have come into store. They are heading in the right direction towards a more positive circular economy and they have a clear vision for 2020, more than can be said for most high-street retailers!

In 2015 Zara brought out their sustainable collection, Join Life. The products in the Join Life collections have to meet a series of internal qualifications: the primary fabric must be Better Cotton Initiative Approved, organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester or recycled polyamide. It must be manufactured with one of

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Interview

Study 34

Meet the cutting edge fashion designer embracing sustainability

Recycle and Reuse Design and Manufacture

Over the past few years, we have seen a developing

“I think it just simply means creating something, developing something that doesn’t harm the environment."

with making a statement of ethical solidarity.

desire for more transparency in clothing and manufacturing processes. Zara and H&M are the

Eleanor O’Neill embraces style through her

latest to create sustainable collections, however,

beautiful knitwear. Her sustainable brand Study

having these collections run alongside their fast

34 commenced in 2015. Making a stand in

fashion garments appears condescending. Are

the circular economy through her design and

these collections really credible? This is great

manufacturing, her jumpers are created using

news for consumers who want to know where

ethical yarns and no waste rules. Following

their clothes come from. But does attention on

working for a global supply chain manager and

ethics actually have staying power in today’s fast

international luxury brands, she found herself fed

paced fashion market?

up. “I started to think, why am I bored? Then I started to uncover all these things that bothered

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There is an overwhelming desire for garments

me. I have always been in a certain role and

that can look good but that go hand in hand

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designing a garment to putting it up for sale.”

Sustainability

is

an

important

subject

to

Ellie; a word she says is bandied about but After making her first collection by hand, from

also one that means so much. “I think it just

thread to final garment, Ellie realised this was not

simply means creating something, developing

the best way to move forward. Today, working

something that doesn’t harm the environment.

with a British factory creating fine gauge knitwear

Whether that is through its longevity and it’s

through the end of the line yarns, she finds herself

not just products. There are sustainable ways

excited, but also a little apprehensive about the

of working as well, you know, you work in a way

next phase. “I’m collaborating with people who

that encourages the good growth of a person.”

will help me along the way. So it’s the first time that I have done that and I’ve been in charge of

Discussing the fast fashion sustainable capsules

every single section of it, and there were some

with Ellie, she has dividing opinions about their

challenges along the way, which is why it is taking

authenticity, “I think it is good to raise awareness

a little bit longer than I would have hoped.”

and realistically what you need is someone massive

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like H&M to actually do something about it.” She says, “There will be, I’m certain that there will be, an element of greenwashing, but I don’t think they are 100% bad necessarily. Those giants are the ones who are going to be able to change the industry.”

Sustainability is still very niche, is this the result of high street brands ignoring the topic, or has society just become settled in its old habits?

Ellie hopes to one day have a team working for her, in a city and a studio. Producing ethical jumpers, made in small quantities but of a luxurious quality. “I’d like to develop a really positive and experimental workplace, for people to come and learn from each other and be really passionate!” Northern Creatives

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Interview

“There will be, I’m certain that there will be, an element of green washing, but I don’t think they are 100% bad necessarily. Those giants are the ones who are going to be able to change the industry.”

The White T-Shirt Company Making an impact in fashion retail

Eleanor O’Neill Sustainability to Penny is not just about how it is created, but how long a product can last.

Recycle and Reuse Design

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The White T-shirt Company is a brand that uses ethical supply chains,

Since starting up in 2004 The White T-shirt Company has seen some

organic cotton and aims to reduce waste. The brand is very much a

defeats. With a fall in sales when the UK textile mills began closing

part of today’s new circular economy. An economy that is transparent

down, Penny became downhearted when the organic mill she

to consumers, minimises rubbish and cares for our environment. As

sourced from closed, halting the business she adored. After a short

oppose to the previous make, use, and dispose of method society had

period of gloom, the Danish company re-approached Penny a couple

become accustomed to.

of years later, she thought to herself, ‘this is the right time’. Now her organic cotton is from Turkey and her polyester from Portugal.

Penny, a determined businesswoman, owns The White T-shirt Company. The smell of breakfast is strong in the air as we walk into her home. It’s a

The authentic nature of organic clothing is to be celebrated in these

warmhearted family abode, but also a place of dedicated work. Where

gloomy times. Penny’s t-shirts don’t only fit to perfection, but their

family pictures hang from the wall and clothing tags dangle from the

seams don’t twist, their hems perfected, and they wash like a dream.

table. Her little office sits at the top of the stairs in this vast picturesque

Each piece has gone through the whole production process guilt

house.

free, from Turkey to North Shields, a t-shirt of pure attraction, in both design and development. All charmingly packaged through timeworn recycled card, in the most picturesque put together little parcel. Northern Creatives

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Sustainability to Penny is not just about how it is created, but how long a product can last. Once worn down she thrives for you to make the t-shirts into dusters and sleepwear, so never to fill the landfill. Penny’s design background means she longs for these such projects. Having already focused on ethical baby garments, her next venture is Tailor your tee, a form of creating the ultimate faultless size and sleeve length ethical t-shirt. Sustainability is now a need not a desire. With so much darkness in one world, Penny sheds light on how we can comfort a dissolving earth; through retailers doing their bit to help reduce waste and form transparent supply chains.

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Changing

While sitting looking at the countless fashion weeks on a gloomy day in September, I notice the caption sustainability always seems to crop up. No matter what season, no matter what show, designers are always slated for their lack of zest towards the subject.

I started to ponder why no one ever gets praised for what they do in these

Times

glum dismal times. The media never writes an encouraging story about an independent designer who is incorporating sustainability. It is all so uninspiring when everything seems so bleak.

It is true the world has to change. Global warming is becoming an issue we can no longer overlook, no matter what unwise Trump says. It is becoming a part of society, but do people actually care?

We throw clothes away like there is no tomorrow and we buy new ones like we need them. Polluting rivers and seas and clogging up the landfill, it seems so foolish.

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Sustainability and global warming is a subject that is here to stay, one that is so prominent today. An issue that unless we change, it won’t change. Maybe a word you once thought geeky, organic clothes you once thought dropped from your body like a wet flannel and institutions you thought would not understand you. This is all about showing people how far society has come in making sustainability the norm. Commending the individuals and making their voices heard. It is refreshing to see these creators being so kind and compassionate, it feels so inspiring to have met them.

Having only ever touched the surface with the locals, I found myself travelling from Washington to Northshields, places I had never called upon. It was far from the normal metro ride I often take into town. I am now looking at situations in different ways, ways I never thought I would. I want to praise the people who are trying to bring a little light to this melting earth. The ones who are trying to comfort us, and the ones who are trying to help tackle this ever-growing fight against global warming.

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Interview

Recyke y’Bike Creating sustainable bicycles while helping communities locally and internationally, we investigate the respectable North East charity.

Recyle and Resue

"When we scrap the bikes we strip them down to their individual components and any that are reusable we keep, and either sell or use."

When it comes to emissions, travelling via bicycle

While committed to helping the environment

leaves little if any carbon footprint. With bikes

through throwing away as little as possible, they

perceived as an environmentally friendly form

also do remarkable work with charities in Kenya,

of transport, it begs the question could they be

refugees and asylum seekers.

produced sustainably? What is it that you do at Recyke y’Bike?

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Recyke y’Bike is a charity, that bases its ethos

“Recyke y’Bike is a charity, it was set up in 2006,

around upcycling and their focus is sustainability.

people give us bikes; we fix them up and sell

The whole pursuit is underpinned by the belief

them. We send five hundred bikes a year to a

that all waste can be saved. By recycling, repairing

local project in Kenya and we give away fifty to

and reusing parts of equipment from old bikes,

sixty bikes to refugees and asylum seekers. We

they put together, polish up and create new bikes

have forty-odd volunteers, and about half of

from recycled fragments.

them are retired. At the other end of the scale

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we’ve got a number of people who have moderate

components and any that are reusable we keep,

to severe mental health issues, we have people

and either sell or use. Bike tyres go to a council

with learning difficulties, seriously long-term

refuge centre where they get sent off and they get

unemployed individuals and we give them

turned into matting for playgrounds.”

purpose.” Have you seen a rise in consumers wanting to How do you distribute all the bikes you repair?

become increasingly sustainable?

“We get donated around two thousand bikes a year.

“People donate bikes to us because they think it’s

Of those we sell eleven hundred, five hundred go

a good thing to do, for some it’s sustainability, for

to Africa, fifty are given away locally, and around

some people, it’s because they are helping the

three hundred get scrapped. When we scrap

projects in Africa.”

"We have people with learning difficulties, seriously long term unemployed individuals and we give them purpose."

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Interview

Love it Love it Love it Ruth encourages parents to really love children’s clothing and not just until it doesn’t fit anymore

What is the outlook of Recyke y’Bike?

communities by sending thousands of bikes to Africa

“Recyke y’Bike started out under a railway arch

each year, aiming to make substantial changes to

in Byker, we’ve now got two sites in Byker, one’s

people’s lives in some of the continent’s poorest

the shop and the other a workshop. We opened

and most remote regions. When looking at a bigger

a shop in Durham and last June we opened The

national brand such as Halfords who’s sustainable

Journey. I think next year we will open a shop in

visions are nowhere near Recyke y’Bikes ethos,

Gateshead; potentially another one after that in

it makes you value the hard work local charities

South Sheilds and that will be it.”

do. Helping not only the locals of Newcastle by

She will only sell clothing of high quality, to ensure they last a long period of time.

supplying jobs and sustainable guidance but Recyke y’Bike has three motivating targets, reduce

helping the international community too. This

isolation in communities, promote better physical

is a business practice that should be admired.

health and provide employment opportunities. The charity is effectively reducing isolation in

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Design

Tucked away in an industrial yard just off the

While showing me some of the collections that

quayside in Newcastle is Love it Love it Love

she has bought in for the upcoming seasons she

it, run by Ruth. It is a children’s clothing brand

stressed that she will only sell clothing of high

that is based around the longevity of children’s

quality, to ensure they last a long period of time.

clothing. Ruth started up her business in 2009,

The soft touch and the element of washing well

she buys in clothing from retailers from all around

are really important for her brand.

the world and sells them on her online store. Having had so much success online with clothing, Her brand message is based on good quality clothing

Ruth decided at the end of last year to branch out

being passed down to future children, grandchildren,

into sustainable homeware, it is an area that is

nieces, nephews or anyone that you know! Ruth

much harder to find on the market. She showed

understands that children’s clothing isn’t going to fit

me some beautiful children’s cups made from

your child for a long period of time before they are into

bamboo. The feel was so soft and smooth, and

the next size. She wants parents to keep the clothing

she was delighted to tell me that they are 100%

instead of throwing away after they are finished with

biodegradable as well.

them, resulting in less clothing going into landfill. Ruth is a leading example of how being sustainable Ruth loves colour, being a mother herself, she

can be expanded into so many areas, her brand

understands that whites never stay white and was

message is admirable. She is actively encouraging

sick of seeing neutral colours on the high street.

parents to stop throwing away so many children’s

She emphasised that she wants bright colours

clothes. She says that not all of her clothing is

within her collections. While talking with Ruth she

100 per cent sustainable but she hopes that the

expressed that she also really wanted the colours of

longevity, colour and quality of her clothing will

the children’s clothes to be unisex. Perfect for a boy

avoid them seeing landfill for many generations to

or girl, therefore meaning its longevity is increased.

come.

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The modern world... Sometimes it is easy to just forget how global warming is affecting the rest of the world. It is not until you see something that impacts you, shocks you

Global Warming

or scares you that sometimes you realise how serious something can be.

Whilst on a trip to the U.S in the summer I visited the Hoover Dam in Las Vegas, I witnessed how enormous the impact of global warming really is, and how we are all a contributing to it getting worse. I started thinking about how we are the only ones who can really change it and do something about it.

In May 2016, Lake Mead in Vegas dropped to its lowest point since the Hoover Dam was completed in 1936. The Hoover Dams generators provide power for the public and private utilities in Nevada, Arizona and California.

The lake is now around 37 percent full while showing a distinctive mineral bathtub ring around the edge, demonstrating the dramatic drop. It now has a 103 feet surface level that it has lost since 2000, this is due to the California drought, which has been going on for around a shocking ten years. The drought has killed 7.7 million acres of forest and caused massive forest fires, especially in California in summer 2016, which saw a smog of thick smoke from the fires cover the city.

All of this is happening due to global warming, droughts are expected to get more severe as the climate of the world is changing, and global warming will bring more uncertainty to our nature, warmer temperatures can increase water demand and evaporation, therefore putting greater stress on water

Think Piece

supplies. The Hoover Dam is a leading example of global warming taking

Hoover Dam

place. Showing visible effects global warming is having on our planet.

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“THE GREATEST THREAT TO OUR PLANET IS THE BELIEF THAT SOMEONE ELSE WILL SAVE IT” ROBERT SWAN

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Credits ‘As a billion dollar industry and the second most polluting business after oil, fashion has a direct impact on the environment. The processing of raw materials required for textiles and the vast amounts of water used (2,700 litres per single t-shirt) contributes to the emission of greenhouse gasses which are causing climate change. The arrival of fast fashion and the massive increase in number of clothes that we are buying (and quickly discarding) means that this impact is only getting greater.’

Richard, Mark & Dean - NOVOCASTRIAN Eleanor O’Neill - Study 34 Penny Jones - The White T-Shirt Company Adam Laing - The Journey & Recyke y’Bike Ruth - Love it Love it Love it All photography and writing was conducted by Emily Denton unless otherwise stated.

www.northerncreators.wordpress.co.uk

Gather and See

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NORTHERN CREATIVES Issue 1

CELEBRATION


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