Peberholm hat - Pattern Preview by emilygreeneknits

PEBERHOLM

by Emily Greene

Peberholm is a graphic colorwork hat, worked in the round from the bottom-up. Designed as a companion pattern to the Saltholm sweater, Peberholm features a cleverly-constructed faced brim for a cozy fit and extra warmth around the ears. This pattern is written in four sizes to fit a wide range of heads, and includes instructions for three brim construction methods, so knitters can choose the option that best suits their personal knitting preferences. Peberholm uses just two colors of your favorite fingering-weight wool yarn — making this is a great pattern for using up leftovers from bigger projects!

Pattern version 1 | March 2022

PATTERN INFORMATION Yarn

Main color (MC): 135 (145, 160, 175) yards [125 (135, 145, 160) meters] of fingering weight yarn needed Contrast color (CC): 90 (100, 110, 120) yards [80 (90, 100, 110) meters] of fingering weight yarn needed Samples shown in Hudson + West Co. Weld (70% U.S. Merino / 30% U.S. Corriedale wool) in colorways ‘Raven’ (MC) & ‘Fawn’ (CC), and ‘Fawn’ (MC) & ‘Gold Leaf’ (CC).

Pattern Notes (continued) • Hat has a faced brim, creating a double-thickness of fabric

Gauge

29.5 stitches & 35 rounds = 4ʺ [10 cm] in colorwork pattern worked in the round with Size A needle(s), after blocking.

Needles

Size A (for Main Fabric) One 16ʺ [40 cm] circular needle and one set DPNs* in size needed to obtain gauge listed Suggested Size: US 2 / 2.75 mm Size B (for Brim Facing) One 16” [40 cm] circular needle, one size smaller than Size A Suggested Size: US 1 / 2.25 mm *A 36” [90 cm] circular needle may be used instead of 16” [40 cm] circular needle and DPNs if using the Magic Loop method for working small circumferences in the round.

Finished Measurements

Sizes S (M, L, XL): 16.25 (18, 19.5, 21.25) inches [41.5 (45.5, 49.5, 54) cm] finished circumference, 8.75 inches [22 cm] long Suggested Ease: Negative 1-3” [2.5-7.5 cm] Samples shown are Size L, worn with 3” [7.5 cm] negative ease.

Notions & Tools • Stitch markers • Yarn needle for weaving in ends • Crochet hook for provisional cast on (optional if working Brim •

Option A) Smooth waste yarn for provisional cast-on (if working Brim Option A)

Special Techniques

Crochet Cast On (optional); see page 4.

Pattern Notes • Hat is knit in the round from the bottom up. • Hat features an allover colorwork pattern; take care to ensure • • •

floats at WS of work are kept loose to avoid puckering. The brim facing is worked on a smaller needle size than the main fabric of the hat, to ensure a comfortably snug fit at the brim. Slip markers as they are encountered unless otherwise noted. Instructions for colorwork stitch patterns are provided in charted form. Written equivalent, row-by-row instructions for each chart are included in your pattern purchase and available in a separate PDF download.

PEBERHOLM | All images, text & illustration © Emily Greene 2022

•

around the ears for extra warmth. Instructions are included for three brim construction methods—choose the option that best suits your knitting preferences: Brim Option A (uses provisional cast on, no picking up stitches and no sewing): Brim facing starts with a provisional cast on in waste yarn; instructions are provided for crochet cast on (see Special Techniques on page 4), but feel free to substitute the provisional cast on method of your choice. Brim facing and brim are worked in the round, then provisional cast on is carefully removed and live stitches are transferred to spare circular needle. Brim facing is folded to the WS, and the two layers are joined by knitting together one stitch from the brim and one stitch from the brim facing, all the way around the work. Brim Option B (requires picking up stitches, no provisional cast on and no sewing): Brim facing starts with a long-tail cast on. Brim facing and brim are worked in the round. Brim facing is folded to the WS, and the two layers are joined by knitting together one stitch from the brim and one stitch picked up from the cast-on edge, all the way around the work. Brim Option C (requires sewing, no provisional cast on and no picking up stitches): Brim facing starts with a long-tail cast on. Brim facing, brim, and crown of hat are worked in the round. Once all knitting is complete, brim facing is folded to the WS and sewn to the interior of the brim using a tapestry needle. For a longer hat, you may (a) work an additional 8 rounds in the brim (both during the facing and outer brim), (b) work the first 8 rounds of Chart C twice, or (c) both. Options (a) and (b) will each add approximately 1” [2.5 cm] to the overall length of the hat. Opportunities to add length are noted within the pattern instructions. Adding length may increase yarn requirements by up to 20%.

A Note Regarding Color Dominance

When knitting stranded colorwork, it is important to maintain a consistent relationship between the position of the yarns as they are stranded behind the work. The relative positions of the two yarns create an effect known as color dominance, in which the yarn that is carried below the other (known as the Dominant Color) will yield slightly larger stitches that ‘pop’ visually on the RS of the fabric, while the yarn that is carried above the other (known as the Background Color) will yield smaller stitches that recede. Note that both the Main Color (MC) and Contrast Color (CC) yarns used in a given pattern can be either Dominant or Background, depending on the position in which the yarns are stranded as you work. For this pattern, I recommend holding the CC yarn in the Dominant position, and the MC yarn in the Background position throughout.

ABBREVIATIONS

INSTRUCTIONS

BOR CC CO DPN(s) k k2tog L MC pm pwise R rep RS sl sm ssk

Brim Facing

st(s) WS wyib

beginning of row/round contrast color cast on double-pointed needle(s) knit knit two stitches together (1 stitch decreased, leans right) left main color place marker purlwise right repeat right side slip slip marker slip, slip, knit: slip two stitches knitwise one at a time from left to right needle, then return them to the left needle in their new orientation and knit together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased, leans left) stitch(es) wrong side with working yarn(s) held in back

Brim Option A only: With waste yarn and using your preferred provisional cast on method (see Special Techniques on page 4 for crochet cast on), provisionally CO 120 (132, 144, 156) stitches onto Size B needle (recommended size: US 1 / 2.25 mm). Setup Row (RS): With MC, knit all stitches. Brim Options B & C only: With MC yarn and using long-tail cast on, CO 120 (132, 144, 156) stitches onto Size B needle (recommended size: US 1 / 2.25 mm). All Brim Options resume: Join for working in the round, taking care not to twist your work. Place marker to indicate BOR. With MC, knit 3 rounds.

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Next Round: Work Round 1 of Chart A a total of 20 (22, 24, 26) times. pattern. Continue in Chart A as established through Round 4, then repeat Rounds 1-4 two more times.

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(Modification For optional longer hat brim, repeat the last view thisNote: content. 8 rounds one more time; be sure to also follow the Modification Note in the Outer Brim instructions.) With MC, knit 4 rounds.

SCHEMATIC

Outer Brim Length: 8.75" [22 cm] May be increased up to 10.75" [27.5 cm] by following optional Modiﬁcation Notes.

Change to Size A needle (recommended size: US 2 / 2.75 mm).

Circumference, unstretched: 16.25 (18, 19.5, 21.25)" [41.5 (45.5, 49.5, 54) cm]

Next Round (turning round): With MC, purl all stitches.

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With MC, knit 3 rounds.

Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A one time.

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Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A one time. (Modification Note: For optional longer hat brim, repeat the last 8 rounds one more time. You must also have added length as described in the preceding Modification Note in the Brim Facing instructions.) With MC, knit 3 rounds. Brim Option A only: Carefully remove waste yarn provisional cast on and transfer live stitches to Size B circular needle (beginning and ending at original BOR). Fold work in half lengthwise along purled ‘turning round’, so that Size A needle is on the outside of the folded brim (in front), and Size B circular needle is on the inside (in back).

3-Needle Join

Join Round: *Insert R needle knitwise into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [120 (132, 144, 156) sts] Brim Option B only: Fold work in half lengthwise along purled ‘turning round’, so that live stitches on Size A needle are on the outside of the folded brim (in front), and cast-on edge is on the inside (in back). Take care to ensure original BOR at cast-on edge (where the cast-on ‘tail’ is) is aligned with current BOR marker.

PEBERHOLM | All images, text & illustration © Emily Greene 2022

INSTRUCTIONS (continued)

FINISHING

Brim Option B only (continued): Join Round: R needle, pick up 1 version st from cast-on edge, slip st You are*With viewing a preview of this pwise from R to L needle, k2tog from L needle; repeat from * to end. pattern. [120 (132, 144, 156) sts]

Brim Option C only: Turn hat are WS-out. Fold brim to WSversion (towards you) along purled You viewing a facing preview of this ‘turning round’, so that cast-on edge rests just below first round of pattern. Chart B. Using a tapestry needle and MC yarn, sew cast-on edge to Please WS of hat; duplicate stitch the tidiest results, to but use purchase the will fullgive version in order anyview method you’re comfortable with. Take care not to pull the yarn this content. tightly while sewing to ensure that the finished seam will stretch comfortably when worn.

Please the full version in order to Brim Optionpurchase C only: view this content. Next Round: With MC, knit all stitches. Main Pattern (All Brim Options resume)

Sizes S & L only: Round *Work Round 1 a ofpreview Chart B-Right over nextof 30this ( —, 36, — ) You1:are viewing version sts,pattern. working outlined 6-stitch repeat a total of 4 ( —, 5, — ) times, pm, work Round 1 of Chart B-Left over next 30 ( —, 36, — ) sts, working outlined 6-stitch repeat a the total of 4 (version — , 5, — )in times*, pm; Please purchase full order torepeat from * to * one more time. view this content. Next Round: *Work next round of Chart B-Right to marker, sm, work next round of Chart B-Left to marker, sm; repeat from * one more time. Continue in Charts B-Right and B-Left as established through Round 14. Sizes M & XL only: Round 1: Work Round 1 of Chart B-Right over next — (30, —, 36) sts, working outlined 6-stitch repeat a total of — (4, —, 5) times, pm, work Round 1 of Chart B-Left over next — (36, —, 42) sts, working outlined 6-stitch repeat a total of — (5, — , 6) times, pm, work Round 1 of Chart B-RIght over next — (36, —, 42) sts, working outlined 6-stitch repeat a total of — (5, —, 6) times, pm, work Round 1 of Chart B-Left over next — (30, —, 36) sts, working outlined 6-stitch repeat a total of — (4, —, 5) times. Next Round: *Work next round of Chart B-Right to marker, sm, work next round of Chart B-Left to marker, sm; repeat from * one more time. Continue in Charts B-Right and B-Left as established through Round 14. All sizes resume: Note: You may remove all markers except BOR marker as you work the next round. With MC, knit 4 rounds. Next Round: Work Round 1 of Chart C, working outlined 12-stitch repeat a total of 10 (11, 12, 13) times. (Modification Note: If you wish to add length to your hat, you may work Rounds 1-8 of Chart C twice before continuing with the remainder of the chart.) Continue in Chart C as established through Round 38, decreasing as indicated on Rounds 11, 17, 23, 29, 33 & 37. You now have 10 (11, 12, 13) stitches remaining. Break yarn, leaving a tail of each yarn roughly 10” [25 cm] long. Pass CC tail through opening at crown to WS of hat to be woven in later. Thread MC tail onto a tapestry needle and pass through all remaining stitches twice, pulling gently to cinch top of hat closed. Thread MC yarn tail through to WS of hat.

PEBERHOLM | All images, text & illustration © Emily Greene 2022

All Brim Options resume: Weave in all ends on WS. Gently wet block hat to schematic measurements.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES Crochet (Provisional) Cast On

A provisional cast on is a cast on worked in waste yarn that will be removed later, by carefully unraveling or snipping the waste yarn to allow the stitches at the base of the work to become ‘live’ stitches again. My preferred method for casting on provisionally is to use the crochet cast on, because it can easily be unraveled by pulling on one end of the yarn to ‘unzip’ the crochet chain. To work this cast on, use a crochet hook that is 1-2 sizes larger than the knitting needle, and use smooth waste yarn for all steps. 1. 2.

3. 4. 5.

6. 7. 8.

Leaving a short tail, create a slip knot on your crochet hook. Create one chain stitch as follows: Wrap the ‘working’ end of the yarn around the crochet hook from back to front (counterclockwise), and use the hook to pull the wrap through the slip knot loop. Repeat step 2 four or five more times. This creates a short foundation chain for your cast on. Holding your knitting needle on the left and your crochet hook on the right, cross the hook over the needle, creating an ‘X’ with the hook in front. Wrap the ‘working’ end of the yarn around both the needle and hook from back to front (counterclockwise); keeping the yarn wrapped around the needle, use the hook to pull the wrap through the previous chain stitch loop. You now have one loop on your needle (1 stitch cast on) and one loop on your hook. Repeat steps 4-5 until you have the total desired number of stitches cast on to your needle. Letting your knitting needle hang in the back, work 5-6 chain stitches on your crochet hook only (as in step 2). Cut your waste yarn, leaving a ~6” [15 cm] tail, then chain one more stitch (as in step 2) and pull the tail through the last stitch loosely. You’ve now completed your provisional cast on!

When it’s time to unravel the provisional cast on, start at the ‘tail’ end (from step 8). Carefully work the tail back out of the last chain stitch, then pull gently to ‘unzip’ the crochet chain one stitch at a time. Once you reach the stitches you’ve knitted into, be sure to transfer these to a spare circular needle as you ‘unzip’ the remaining crochet chain.

CHART A CHART C

4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1

CHART A

CHART C

CHART A

You are viewing a preview version 38 37 of this pattern. 36

You are viewing 4 a preview version 3 of this pattern. 6-stitch 6-stitch repeat repeat 2 6-stitch repeat

35 34 in Please purchase the full version order to view this content. 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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6-stitch repeat

LEGEND LEGEND LEGEND Knit stitch with withMC MCyarn yarn Knit 1 11 s�tch s�tch with MC yarn Knit 1 s�tch with MC yarn

Knit 1 stitch with CC yarn LEGEND

Knit 1 s�tch with CC yarn Knit Knit 1 1 s�tch s�tch with with CC CC yarn yarn k2tog with MC yarn: 2 MC k2tog with MC yarn: stitches with together with MC yarn. k2tog with with MC MC yarn: yarn: knit knitknit 2 sts sts2 together together with MC yarn yarn k2tog knit 2 sts together with MC yarn Knit 1 s�tch with MC yarn (1 stitch decreased; leans right) (1 stitch decreased; leans right) (1 stitch decreased, leans right) (1 stitch decreased; leans right) Knit 1 with s�tchCC with CCknit yarn2 k2tog with yarn: knit 2 sts sts2together together with CC yarn yarn k2tog yarn: CC k2tog withCC yarn: stitcheswith together k2tog with CCCC yarn: knitknit 2right) sts together with CC yarnwith CC yarn. (1 stitch decreased; leans (1 stitch decreased; leans right)right) (1 stitch decreased; leans right) (1 stitch decreased, leans k2tog with MC yarn: knit 2 sts together with MC yarn (1 stitch decreased; leans right) Repeat Repeat Repeat Rounds marked *: majority of k2tog with CC yarn: knitthese 2 sts rounds, togetherthe with CC yarn Rounds marked *: For For these rounds, the majority of Rounds marked the majority of of the round Rounds marked *: For Forthese these rounds, the majority the round will be be*:worked worked in CCrounds, yarn, with with only a few few (1 stitch decreased; leans right) the round will in CC yarn, only a the round will be worked in CC yarn, with only a few s�tches in MC yarn. It will be necessary to float the will be worked in CC yarn, with only a few stitches in MC yarn. It s�tches in in MC MC yarn. yarn. It It will will be be necessary necessary to to float float the the MC MC s�tches MC yarn loosely behind your as these rounds, Repeat yarn loosely behind your work work as you you knit these rounds, will be necessary to carry the MC yarnknit loosely behind your work as yarn loosely behind your work as you knit these rounds, trapping it every 5-6 s�tches. trapping it 5-6 s�tches. trapping it every every 5-6 s�tches. you knit these rounds, trapping it every stitches. Rounds marked *: For these rounds, the5-6 majority of the round will be worked in CC yarn, with only a few s�tches in MC yarn. It will be necessary to float the MC yarn loosely behind your work as you knit these rounds, trapping it every 5-6 s�tches.

12-stitch repeat, decreasing to 1-stitch

CHARTCHART B-LEFTB-LEFT

CHART B-LEFT

You are viewing a preview version 14 13 of this pattern. 12 11

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6-stitch repeat 6-stitch repeat

LEGEND B-RIGHT CHARTCHART CHART B-RIGHT B-RIGHT Knit 1 s�tch with MC yarn

14 13 12 11 10 9 8* 7* 6 5 4 3 2 1

YouCCare version Knit 1 s�tch with yarnviewing a preview 14 14 of this pattern.

13 12 11 Please purchase the 10 full version 10 in k2tog with CCorder yarn: knit 2 sts together with CC yarn 9 9 to view this content. (1 stitch decreased; leans right) 8* 8* 7* 7* Repeat 6 6 5 5 Rounds marked *: For these rounds, the4majority of 4 the round will be worked in CC yarn, with3only a few 3 s�tches in MC yarn. It will be necessary to2 ﬂoat the MC 2 yarn loosely behind your work as you knit1these rounds, 1 k2tog with MC yarn: knit 2 sts together with 12 MC yarn (1 stitch decreased; leans right) 11

trapping it every 5-6 s�tches.

6-stitch repeat 6-stitch repeat

CHARTCHART A A

Emily Greene’s graphic handknit designs are heavily influenced by her architectural background and by her broader studies of shape, pattern, and surface design. Through her signature use of diagonal lines and texture, Emily aims to create patterns that inspire and challenge makers to stretch their skills and elevate their handknit wardrobes. She lives and works in Portland, Maine. For pattern support and other inquiries, please use the contact form on my website, www.emilygreeneknits.com. You’ll find me on Instagram as @emilygreeneknits. If you enjoy sharing on social media, tag your posts #PeberholmHat and #EmilyGreeneKnits to show off your knitting!