Saltholm sweater - Pattern Preview

SALTHOLM

by Emily Greene

Saltholm is a graphic colorwork pullover, worked seamlessly from the top down. The pattern begins with an extra cozy folded ribbed neckband, then uses short rows to raise the back neckline before diving into the colorwork. Balloon sleeve shaping and extra-deep ribbed trims at the sleeve cuffs and hem give this design a modern silhouette. Knit up in two colors of fingering weight yarn, Saltholm looks great in solid shades, with a variegated contrast color, or with different contrast colors used for each ‘band’ of the colorwork pattern. The allover colorwork pattern ensures there are no boring miles of stockinette to get through after the ‘fun part’ at the yoke—the whole sweater is the fun part!

Pattern version 1 | September 2021

PATTERN INFORMATION Yarn

Main color (MC): 1185 (1255, 1330, 1445, 1515) {1590, 1660, 1760, 1835} (1910, 2015, 2095, 2170) yards [1085 (1150, 1215, 1320, 1385) {1455, 1520, 1610, 1680} (1745, 1845, 1915, 1985) meters] of fingering weight yarn needed Contrast color (CC): 610 (645, 680, 735, 770) {805, 840, 895, 930} (965, 1020, 1060, 1090) yards [560 (590, 620, 670, 705) {735, 770, 820, 850} (880, 935, 970, 995) meters] of fingering weight yarn needed Samples shown in Quince & Co. Finch (100% American wool) in colorways ‘Nasturtium’ (MC) & ‘Shell’ (CC), ‘Audouin’ (MC) & ‘Sabine’ (CC).

Pattern Notes (continued) • Once the desired yoke depth has been reached, stitches for the

•

Gauge

28.5 stitches & 30 rounds = 4ʺ [10 cm] in colorwork pattern worked in the round with Size A needle(s), after blocking.

Needles

Size A (for Main Fabric) Two 36-60ʺ [90-150 cm] circular needles* and one set DPNs** in size needed to obtain gauge listed Suggested Size: US 2 / 2.75 mm Size B (for Sleeve Cuffs) One set DPNs*, one size smaller than Size A Suggested Size: US 1 / 2.25 mm *One of these two circular needles is used for 3-needle join only; this needle may be Size A or smaller, and can be any length 16” [40 cm] or longer. **A 36” [90 cm] circular needle may be used instead of DPNs for sleeves & cuffs if using the Magic Loop method for working small circumferences in the round.

Finished Measurements

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) {6, 7, 8, 9} (10, 11, 12, 13): 33.75 (37, 40.5, 43.75, 47.25) {50.5, 54, 57.25, 60.75} (64, 67.25, 70.75, 74) inches [85.5 (94, 103, 111, 120) {128.5, 137, 145.5, 154.5} (162.5, 171, 179.5, 188) cm] finished garment circumference at chest Suggested Ease: + 6-12” [15-30.5 cm] Samples shown are Size 5 (Nasturtium/Shell), worn with ~6” [15 cm] positive ease on model, and Size 7 (Audouin/Sabine), worn with ~12” [30.5 cm] positive ease on model.

Notions & Tools • Stitch markers • Smooth waste yarn for provisional cast-on • Yarn needle for weaving in ends Special Techniques

German Short Rows, Cable Cast On, Tubular Bind-Off (optional); see page 9.

•

sleeves are placed on hold, and additional stitches are cast on at the underarms using cable cast on. The body is then worked in the round to the hem. Held stitches for first sleeve are returned to needles, then additional stitches are picked up along the underarm cast on. Sleeve is then worked in the round to cuff. These steps are then repeated for the second sleeve. The sleeves have a balloon shape and are designed to stop just at or above the wrist bone. If you would like to add length to the sleeves, either due to your personal fit preferences or to having a more compact round gauge than the pattern’s, I recommend adding an extra repeat of Rounds 1-16 of the Upper Sleeve Chart (working these rounds three times in total, instead of two); this will add approximately 2.25 inches [5.5 cm] to the overall sleeve length. Instructions for colorwork stitch patterns are provided in charted form. Written equivalent, row-by-row instructions for each chart are included in your pattern purchase and available in a separate PDF download.

ABBREVIATIONS

BOR CC CO dec(’d) DPN(s) inc(‘d) k k2tog L M1R

MC p p2tog pm R rem RLI RS Sl-GSR

Pattern Notes • Pullover is knit in the round from the top down with round yoke shaping. • Body and sleeves feature an allover colorwork pattern; take care to ensure floats at WS of work are kept loose to avoid puckering.

• The folded ribbed neckband is worked first, starting with a

ssk

•

st(s) WS

provisional cast on, then folded in half and joined with 3-needle join. The back neck of the pullover is raised using short rows before beginning the colorwork yoke. Slip markers as they are encountered unless otherwise noted.

SALTHOLM | All images, text & illustration © Emily Greene 2021

beginning of row/round contrast color cast on decrease(d) double-pointed needle(s) increase(d) knit knit two stitches together (1 stitch decreased, leans right) left make one right: pick up one stitch by inserting your left needle tip under the bar between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle from back to front, then knit this lifted bar through the front loop (1 stitch increased, leans right) main color purl purl two stitches together (1 stitch decreased, leans right) place marker right remain(ing) right lifted increase: with R needle tip, lift the R leg of the stitch below first stitch on L needle, place it onto L needle and knit it. (1 stitch increased, leans right) right side slip for German Short Row: slip one stitch purlwise with working yarn held in front, pull working yarn up and over to back of right needle, drawing the two “legs” of the slipped stitch up and creating what looks like a double stitch. To resolve double stitch on subsequent row, knit or purl it through both “legs” (see Special Techniques). slip, slip, knit: slip two stitches knitwise one at a time from left to right needle, then return them to the left needle in their new orientation and knit together through the back loops (1 stitch decreased, leans left) stitch(es) wrong side 2

SCHEMATIC

D

C B

G

E

J

F

K

H

A Finished Garment Measurements

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

47 1/4’’ 120 cm

50 1/2’’ 54’’ 128.5cm 137 cm

8

9

10

11

12

13

A circumference

Chest/hip

33 3/4’’ 37’’ 85.5 cm 94 cm

40 1/2’’ 103 cm

43 3/4’’ 111 cm

B

Total length

25 1/4’’ 64 cm

25 1/2’’ 65 cm

25 3/4’’ 25 3/4’’ 26’’ 65.5 cm 65.5 cm 66 cm

C

Yoke depth

7 1/4’’ 7 1/2’’ 18.5 cm 19 cm

Neckline

17 3/4'' 45 cm

E

Body length from underarm

15 1/2'' 15 1/4’’ 15’’ 39.5 cm 38.5 cm 38 cm

F

Hem band

3 1/2'' 9 cm

Upper sleeve

13 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 15 1/4'' 15 1/4'' 15 1/4'' 15 1/4'' 16 3/4'' 16 3/4'' 16 3/4'' 18 1/2'' 34.5 cm 34.5 cm 34.5 cm 38.5 cm 38.5 cm 38.5 cm 38.5 cm 42.5 cm 42.5 cm 42.5 cm 47 cm

Wrist

7 3/4'' 7 3/4'' 7 3/4'' 9’’ 19.5 cm 19.5 cm 19.5 cm 23 cm

9’’ 23 cm

J

Sleeve length from underarm

15 3/4'' 40 cm

15 1/2'' 15 1/4'' 15'' 39.5 cm 38.5 cm 38 cm

14 3/4'' 14 1/2'' 37.5 cm 37 cm

14'' 13 3/4'' 35.5 cm 35 cm

13 1/2'' 13 1/2'' 13 1/4'' 13 1/4'' 13'' 34.5 cm 34.5 cm 33.5 cm 33.5 cm 33 cm

K

Sleeve cuff

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

D circumference

G circumference H circumference

25 1/2’’ 65 cm

7 3/4’’ 8’’ 8 1/4’’ 19.5 cm 20.5 cm 21 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

26’’ 66 cm

70 3/4’’ 74’’ 179.5cm 188 cm

26 1/4’’ 26 1/4’’ 26 1/2’’ 26 1/2’’ 27’’ 66.5 cm 66.5 cm 67.5 cm 67.5 cm 68.5 cm

8 1/2’’ 9’’ 21.5 cm 23 cm

9 1/4’’ 9 1/2’’ 23.5 cm 24 cm

9 3/4’’ 25 cm

10’’ 25.5 cm

24'' 61 cm

25 1/4'' 64 cm

26 1/2'' 27 3/4'' 29'' 30 1/4'' 67.5 cm 70.5 cm 73.5 cm 77 cm

31 1/2'' 80 cm

32 3/4'' 83 cm

14 3/4’’ 14 1/2’’ 37.5 cm 37 cm

14 1/4’’ 36 cm

13 3/4’’ 35 cm

13 1/2’’ 13 1/4’’ 13 1/4’’ 13’’ 34.5 cm 33.5 cm 33.5 cm 33 cm

13’’ 33 cm

12 3/4’’ 32.5 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

18 1/2'' 47 cm

19'' 20 1/4'' 21 1/2'' 22 1/2'' 48.5 cm 51.5 cm 54.5 cm 57 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

26’’ 66 cm

57 1/4’’ 60 3/4’’ 64’’ 67 1/4’’ 145.5cm 154.5cm 162.5cm 171 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

9’’ 23 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

9’’ 23 cm

9 3/4’’ 25 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

9 3/4’’ 25 cm

9 1/2’’ 24 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

9 3/4’’ 25 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

3 1/2'' 9 cm

10 3/4’’ 10 3/4’’ 10 3/4’’ 27.5 cm 27.5 cm 27.5 cm

2 3/4’’ 7 cm

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You are viewing a preview version of this pattern. Please purchase the full pattern to view this content. For information on where to buy, visit the designer’s website, www.emilygreeneknits.com.

You are viewing a preview version of this pattern.

Please purchase the full pattern to view this content.

For information on where to buy, visit the designer’s website, www.emilygreeneknits.com.

You are viewing a preview version of this pattern. Please purchase the full pattern to view this content. For information on where to buy, visit the designer’s website, www.emilygreeneknits.com.

You are viewing a preview version of this pattern.

Please purchase the full pattern to view this content.

For information on where to buy, visit the designer’s website, www.emilygreeneknits.com.

You are viewing a preview version of this pattern.

Please purchase the full pattern to view this content.

For information on where to buy, visit the designer’s website, www.emilygreeneknits.com.

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES German Short Rows

The German Short Row method is one of my favorites for its simplicity and the near invisibility of the completed short row shaping on both the knit and purl sides of stockinette fabrics. To work a short row on the ‘knit’ side of stockinette fabric: 1. Work to the point indicated in pattern, and turn your work with purl side facing. 2. With the working yarn held in front, slip one stitch purlwise from your left to right needle. 3. Bring your working yarn up and over the right needle, as if making a yarn over, and pull firmly. This will distort the stitch just slipped, giving the appearance of two stitches instead of one. 4. Continue to keep tension in the working yarn, and bring it back under the right needle tip to the front of your work, ready to work a purl stitch. 5. Continue to work the purl side row as directed in pattern. To work a short row on the ‘purl’ side of stockinette fabric: 1. Work to the point indicated in pattern, and turn your work with knit side facing. 2. Bring the working yarn to the front. With the working yarn held in front, slip one stitch purlwise from your left to right needle. 3. Bring your working yarn up and over the right needle, as if making a yarn over, and pull firmly. This will distort the stitch just slipped, giving the appearance of two stitches instead of one. 4. Continue to keep tension in the working yarn, holding it in back, ready to work a knit stitch. 5. Continue to work the knit side row as directed in pattern.

Tubular Bind Off

Break yarn, leaving a tail roughly four times as long as the edge to be bound off. Thread tail onto yarn needle, and work bind off as follows: 1. Insert yarn needle into first (knit) stitch on L needle purlwise, and draw tail through gently, leaving stitch on L needle. 2. Bring yarn needle around to back of work (under tip of L needle). Insert yarn needle in between first and second stitches on L needle from the back, and draw tail through gently to front of work. Insert yarn needle into second (purl) stitch on the L needle knitwise, draw tail through gently to back of work. 3. Insert yarn needle into first (knit) stitch on L needle knitwise, and draw tail through gently, slipping stitch off of L needle tip. 4. Bring yarn needle to front of work. Insert yarn needle into second (knit) stitch on L needle purlwise, and draw tail through gently, leaving stitch on L needle. 5. Insert yarn needle into first (purl) stitch on L needle purlwise, and draw tail through gently, slipping stitch off of L needle tip. 6. Bring yarn needle around to back of work (under tip of L needle). Insert yarn needle in between first and second stitches on L needle from the back, and draw tail through gently to front of work. Insert yarn needle into second (purl) stitch on the L needle knitwise, draw tail through gently to back of work. 7. Repeat steps 3-6 until only two stitches remain on L needle. 8. Repeat step 3. 9. Repeat step 5.

To resolve the doubled stitches in subsequent rows: Work as directed to the doubled stitch. If working a knit side row, insert your right needle into both legs of the doubled stitch knitwise, as if working k2tog, and knit them together as if they were a single stitch. If working a purl side row, insert your right needle into both legs of the doubled stitch purlwise, as if working p2tog, and purl them together as if they were a single stitch.

Cable Cast On

The Cable Cast On technique can be used to cast on new stitches in the midst of knitting, as well as to create an initial cast-on edge for a new piece. The instructions below are for the former, and will be used to add new stitches at the underarms after dividing the yoke stitches between body and sleeves. 1. Turn work so that WS is facing and stitches just worked are on L needle. 2. Insert R needle tip in between first and second stitches on L needle from the front. Wrap yarn around R needle as if to knit and pull loop through to the front. Slip this loop purlwise to L needle, and tighten gently with working yarn. This counts as one stitch cast on. 3. Repeat Step 2 until you have cast on the total required number of stitches, then turn work so that RS is facing and continue row/ round as instructed in pattern.

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Emily Greene’s graphic handknit designs are heavily influenced by her architectural background and by her broader studies of shape, pattern, and surface design. Through her signature use of diagonal lines and texture, Emily aims to create patterns that inspire and challenge makers to stretch their skills and elevate their handknit wardrobes. She lives and works in Portland, Maine. For pattern support and other inquiries, please use the contact form on my website, www.emilygreeneknits.com. You’ll find me on Instagram as @emilygreeneknits. If you enjoy sharing on social media, tag your posts #SaltholmSweater and #EmilyGreeneKnits to show off your knitting!

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