for people who love local food
London | Issue 13
7DVWH 2I &KULVWPDV New dates and a new venue between November 21 and 24
-LZ[P]L -VVKPL .PM[Z Christmas shopping for the foodies in your life
4` *OLM New home cooking service offering Michelin calibre dining
INSIDE
Your regular Greenliving edition -VSSV^ \Z '-SH]V\Y4HNHaPUL
www.avourmagazine.com
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A magical 14th century manor house set in a 55 acre Cotswold estate. The perfect 4 star Cotswold manor house hotel in warm Cotswold stone, Charingworth has commanded views over idyllic rural Gloucestershire countryside for 700 years. Choose from suites and four poster rooms, all with their own character and
Ideally located for exploring this beautiful part of England and the perfect hotel location for the delightful town of Chipping Campden, Charingworth Manor is a peaceful location for an important conference or elegant Cotswolds wedding. &KDULQJZRUWK 0DQRU Charingworth Nr. Chipping Campden Gloucestershire GL55 6NS Email: FKDULQJZRUWKPDQRU#FODVVLFORGJHV FR XN Call: Visit: ZZZ FODVVLFORGJHV FR XN FKDULQJZRUWKPDQRU
> flavour contents Editor Emily Knight Email: emily#flavourmagazine.com Art Director Farrah Fortnam Email: design#flavourmagazine.com
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Advertising Miranda Coller, Director of Sales Email: miranda#flavourmagazine.com Paris Bielby Email: Paris@flavourmagazine.com Contributors Emanuelle Lee, Angela Mount, Katie Taylor Flavour Magazine 151-153 Wick Road, Brislington, Bristol, BS4 4HH Tel: 0117 977 9188 | Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com For general enquiries Peter Francomb Email: peter#flavourmagazine.com For competition entries Email: competitions#flavourmagazine.com © Copyright 2012 flavourmagazine.com All rights reserved. Material may not be reproduced without permission of flavour. While we take care to ensure that reports, reviews and features are accurate, flavourmagazine.com accepts no liability for reader dissatisfaction arising from the content of this publication. The opinions expressed or advice given are the views of the individual authors, and do not necessarily represent the views or policies of flavourmagazine.com
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Competition Terms & Conditions In addition to any specifically stated terms and conditions, the following applies to all competitions. All information forms part of the rules. All entrants are deemed to have accepted the rules and agree to be bound by them. The winner will be the first entry drawn at random from all the entries sent back after the closing date and will be notified by either post, email or telephone. The prizes are as stated; they are non-transferable and no cash alternative will be offered. All entrants must be at least 18 years old. Competitions are open to UK residents only. One entry per person. Proof of postage is not proof of entry. flavour accepts no responsibility for entries lost or damaged in the post. Entrants agree to take part in any publicity material relating to the competition. The name of the winner will be published in the next edition. The judge’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. Prizes do not include unspecified extras (such as travel). All prizes are subject to availability. Please state if you do not wish to receive any further correspondence from flavour or competition organisers. You may be required to collect your prize.
As the winter chill sets in, all thoughts are (sometimes reluctantly!) turning to the festive period, and here at flavour we’re certainly embracing the festive spirit in this issue! Taste of Christmas takes place at Tobacco Dock between November 21 and 24, and as official media partners of the Taste festivals we have included a mini festival guide (page 21). We particularly love the sound of the Opihr cocktails on page 25!
flavour magazine provides effective communication through design. We specialise in brochures, corporate identity, advertising, direct mail, marketing and design for print. We have a reputation for clear, creative solutions to communication problems for a number of corporate, sports, financial, charity and leisure industry clients. We maintain the highest of standards, throughout each individual project and our client relationship. We pride ourselves on delivering distinctive designs and ideas that will get you noticed. For more information, please contact Peter Francomb Tel: 0117 977 9188 Email: peter#flavourmagazine.com Visit: www.flavourmagazine.com
welcome
In Season The best of the season’s produce
12 Fab Foodie Reads Our round up of recent food and drink releases 16 My Chef New home chef service from Greycoat Lumleys 20 On The Grapevine Emanuelle Lee’s Greek and Italian recommendations 21 Taste of Christmas Festive food and drink at Tobacco Dock this November 31 Festive Foodie Gifts Find the perfect Christmas gifts for foodies
Also aiming to help you through the festive season is our Festive Foodie Gifts feature (page 31), which we’re hoping will provide you with some gift inspiration for the foodies in your lives. With hampers, cookery school vouchers, chocolates, tea, alcohol and more, we’re sure that you’ll find some useful ideas to make your Christmas shopping that little bit easier. Featuring seasonal recipes, our round up of new food and drink titles, restaurant reviews from Emanuelle Lee and more, there’s sure to be something to tickle your tastebuds. And don’t forget our regular Green Living feature, packed with helpful ideas to make your life more eco-friendly. Happy reading!
Emily EMILY KNIGHT
Please recycle this product. 3
If you have any news or events that you would like to share with us here at flavour then email enquiries'flavourmagazine.com
[OPZ TVU[O CASA DI FIORI NOW OPEN IN MAYFAIR If Alice had fallen down the rabbit hole in Mayfair she might have found herself in the wonderfully kitsch wonderland that is Casa di Fiori: a riotous explosion of vibrant hues and surreal surprises.
Casa di Fiori means ‘House of Flowers’ and everywhere you look there are large blooms filling the restaurant with their explosive colours. The impression of an Italian palazzo is further enhanced by the restaurant’s breathtaking interiors, from the Wedgwoodstyle blue and white walls and baroqueinspired furniture to the huge, intricate floral-themed chandeliers that were designed by the owners and then created by Venetian artists in Murano. Head chef Mirko Tesolin, a young talent from Venice now making his debut on the London restaurant scene, delivers his own contemporary take on traditional Italian
dishes such as Tagliolini Crab; Risotto with Asparagus & Scampi; Rossini Beef Fillet with Foie Gras & Black Truffles with a Marsala Reduction and Veal Ossobuco with Braised Saffron Risotto. Equally impressive is the array of desserts, spearheaded by the irresistible millefoglie (puff pastry with Chantilly, liquorice jelly & home-made hazelnut ice cream) and the mini pastry selection, all made in-house by Casa di Fiore’s gifted pâtissiers. Open from Monday to Saturday from 8am until 11.30pm, Casa di Fiori brings a magically eccentric scene to the West End. www.casadifiori.co.uk
FISH STOP, MEATLIQUOR BRIGHTON! Heading to the seaside any time soon? If so, make your first pit stop at the recently opened MEATliquor Brighton for all your burger needs. 1 hour outside London, MEATliquor has taken to the coast, bringing a taste of the capital to the seaside city.
Alongside popular picks including the Dead Hippie burger and Chili Cheese Fries, the new spot will also serve up a range of seafood-inspired dishes, using local fish and their ‘catch of the day’; truly encompassing the perks of Brighton Sea. The décor also sees fantastical illustrations, which visually bring the restaurant to life. Designed by interior architects Shed, the eatery draws inspiration from Brighton’s lurid history 4
and transatlantic cousins, creating a visual experience within itself.
Brighton marks the place to be when roaming the seaside city.
And to start your weekend in Brighton? MEAT serves buckets of ice-cold beer alongside a range of cheeky cocktails crafted by Soulshakers, naturally… So with a capacity of over 100, MEATliquor
MEATliquor can be found at York Place, London Road, Brighton. Find MEATliquor on Twitter @MEATliquor www.meatliquor.com/brighton
THE FOODIES LARDER FLAVOUR CHATS TO CO-OWNER NICK RATSEY ABOUT THE COMPANY
How did The Foodies Larder come about? When we first met, Alejandra and I could barely speak each other’s languages: we got to know each other through whiling away the hours together in the kitchen. It was this passion for cuisine that set us thinking about business. Sharing food is a core part of Spanish culture and we loved the idea of sharing our knowledge and experiences. As everyone who’s holidayed in Spain will know, there’s so much more to Spanish cuisine than you see in UK supermarkets and tapas menus. So we formulated a service that would introduce people to new tastes and flavours from around Spain, without them having to spend hours researching and sourcing individual products – and that’s how we arrived at our concept. How does the scheme work? Subscribers receive a fresh selection of gourmet Spanish foods and ingredients every month – each different from the last, and each based on the season. There’s always something new to try and we provide a menu card with each delivery as well as publishing recipes on our site. Members can choose between a rolling monthly plan and pre-pay terms of three or six months. For people wanting to surprise a friend or relative, we also offer a gift subscription. This has proven surprisingly popular… maybe because it’s a bit like having a birthday every month!
What sort of products does each hamper contain? All of our items are sourced from artisan producers from around Spain. In most cases, their productions are so limited that they could never reach supermarket shelves. We focus on suppliers that develop high-quality products with good nutritional value, using traditional and sustainable techniques. We’ve had everything from herb-infused organic olive oils, sherry vinegars and flavoured salt, to organic chocolate made with sea salt from Ibiza, salsas, pâtés, cheeses, jams, organic honeys and, of course, the all-important jamón Ibérico…plenty of variety! What’s next for The Foodies Larder? Well, December is our one-year anniversary and we have a few things planned. This month, for the first time, we will be announcing the hamper ingredients before the sign-up window closes. Knowing what a challenge Christmas food planning and preparation normally is, we figured customers might like to know what’s in their hampers so that they can plan accordingly. We are also launching a vegetarian Foodies Hamper. This is the first step towards offering a more customised hamper. Early next year we’ll be launching our new look online store. This will allow customers to manage their monthly delivery on the site – adding one-off items to their next delivery or requesting a particular product (olive oil for example) as a monthly addition to their order.
www.thefoodieslarder.co.uk 5
> flavour news
HESTON BLUMENTHAL TO LAUNCH RESTAURANT AT HEATHROW Heston Blumenthal and Heathrow are thrilled to announce that the multi-award winning chef will launch a new restaurant at Terminal 2: The Queen’s Terminal in June 2014. The new restaurant is due to open in June 2014 when Heathrow’s Terminal 2 begins operations. The concept and menu, currently being developed, will showcase Heston’s love for nostalgia and celebrate his pride of all things British, including our much loved and familiar dishes. The menu will feature some of Britain’s favourite meals inspired by his “In Search of Perfection” TV series. The concept for the restaurant will draw on all aspects of the chef’s inimitable and creative approach to cooking, bringing a brand new dining dynamic to Heathrow.
AFTERNOON TEA THE ITALIAN WAY AT MACHIAVELLI COVENT GARDEN This November, Machiavelli are launching their fabulous Italian take on the quintessential British tradition of Afternoon Tea at their bustling Covent Garden café. Afternoon Tea at Machiavelli is a wonderful combination of simple sophistication and rustic charm so typical of Italian food. This is an afternoon tea to warm the soul in only the way Italian food can. Limp cucumber sandwiches are replaced with delicious little focaccia sandwiches filled with mozzarella, tomato and pesto, rare roast beef with rocket and Parma ham and grilled courgette. These are accompanied by picture perfect pizzette, served warm on beautiful Italian olive wood boards. Dry Victoria sponge is replaced by a rich and moist flourless chocolate cake and a deliciously spiced carrot cake. Little pots of creamy Tiramisu and crème caramel 6
continue the Italian influence. The humble scone is given a makeover in the form of piccolo panettone-style scones with Chantilly cream and fabulously fruity jam: all made from the finest of Italian ingredients, carefully sourced by Machiavelli owner Ninai Zarach. To accompany your tea you can choose from a selection of eight Jing teas, or to complete your Italian experience, a glass of chilled Prosecco while you enjoy this very Italian take on afternoon tea. The Machiavelli Afternoon Tea is £15 with tea or £20 with a glass of Prosecco, Monday to Friday 3-5pm. www.machiavellifood.com
“This is an incredible project,” Heston explains. “There are so many different elements to consider when people are travelling. We want to deliver a broad spectrum of easy to enjoy, familiar dishes from fish and chips to pizza. When we made the ‘In Search of Perfection’ series we spent hours researching the temperature of a pizza oven or the crunch of batter; it’s this inspiration that is behind the menu at Heathrow – with some truly British eccentricity thrown in for good measure.”
> flavour news
REXTAIL OPENS ON ALBEMARLE STREET, MAYFAIR Rextail, Arkady Novikov’s second Mayfair restaurant, is now open.
Located on the prestigious and sought after Albemarle Street, the 120-cover restaurant features fish, meat and game dishes, all created under the supervision of head chef Adrian Martin (The Birley Group). Premium quality steaks from the world’s finest cattle are at the forefront of Rextail’s menu. Other main course highlights include fuss-free, flavoursome fare like braised short beef ribs & herb baked bone marrow; Denham Estate venison loin with wild cranberries, and yuzu scented black cod. A fine array of starters such as wood smoked organic salmon, dandelion, quail eggs & grain mustard; tuna tartare with koshu dressing & pickled cucumber, and griddled red sea prawns, guacamole, chilli & vine tomato sauce, together with desserts of the calibre of passion fruit & mango meringue bombe, complete this superb culinary offering.
The restaurant’s front of house team is led by General Manager Livio Italiani, formerly general manager of the hospitality division of Chelsea FC, who is also one of the
country’s top sommeliers. 13 Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4HJ www.rextail.co.uk
AMICO BIO LAUNCHES VEGETARIAN/ VEGAN CHRISTMAS MENU Amico Bio, London’s first vegetarian/vegan Italian restaurant, is unveiling a new set lunch menu for the festive season, consisting of three courses for £12 (including a glass of Lambrusco - £15). Owner and Head Chef, Pasquale Amico, is behind the expertly-crafted selection – one that blends a winter theme with the traditional Italian fare that Amico Bio has become known for since its opening in 2010.
Providing the ultimate antidote to long nights and miserable weather, Amico Bio’s Christmas menu (and extensive list of rich, accompanying wines) offers a luxurious taste of Italy; with special mentions going to the carpaccio of butternut squash, apple and celeriac salad; roasted seitan served with parsnips, carrots, potato and chestnuts; the infamously decadent chocolate tart; and the board of Italian cheese with raisin bread, honey and marmalade. For the full Amico Bio Christmas lunch menu, please visit www.amicobio.co.uk. Find Amico Bio at 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A, and 43 New Oxford Street, WC1A. 7
> flavour in season
8IZ[VQX[ This robust, knobbly root is a sure sign that winter is on its way. Historically, parsnips were used to sweeten dishes where sugar was not widely available and so were used a great deal more in cooking. A little tip is to pick parsnips that have already faced a frost as this adds to their sweetness. Try to pick firm, dry parsnips that are not too big as the bigger they are the more woody the core tends to be. They can be stored well in a fridge for 2-3 weeks provided they are covered. A parsnip that is no longer at its best will tend to look withered and wrinkled and turns slightly soft. There are hundreds of different ways to cook with parsnips and be sure to try as many as you can before deciding on your favourite to offer on the table for your Christmas lunch!
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8]UXSQV Pumpkins are often mistreated when they burst into season being carved up for a Halloween decoration – a waste of what is an amazing ingredient at this time of year! Whether roasted or fried, made into soups or pies, make sure you make more of your sweet squash! Pumpkins work really well with heavier herbs and spices such as thyme or ginger to work with their sweetness. Try roasting the seeds with salt and chilli too. Pick pumpkins that are weighty and with unblemished skin. If stored in a cool, dark place they will keep for several weeks.
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> flavour in season
+ZIVJMZZQM[ Cranberries range from bright red to a deep, festive red and the best berries will be brightly coloured and firm. As they are usually available in packets, you won’t always get all the berries in the same condition, so discard any soft, shrivelled or discoloured ones. They will keep their freshness for a couple of weeks in the fridge but also freeze very well providing you don’t wash them beforehand. Along with their most obvious use in sauces or jellies they can be great in sweet and savoury pies, stuffing, relishes and tarts. Their sweet but sharp flavour tends to go very well with cold meats, particularly white meat, making it the perfect addition to the infamous Boxing Day sandwich!
We all know that eating with the seasons makes for healthier bodies and tastier dishes. Each month Tom Bowles from Hartley Farm brings you all you need to know about the best produce of the month.
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Hartley Farm Shop and Café is located just outside Bath, selling a fresh and colourful selection of local, seasonal produce. Visit: www.hartley-farm.co.uk Follow Hartley Farm on Twitter: #hartleyFarm
8WUMOZIVI\M[ The tough, leathery skin of this fruit is the protector of hundreds of bright capsules that are bursting with a sweet but sharp, dry but refreshing aftertaste. They are also heaped with antioxidants too. When picking, look for fruits that are weighty for their size. They will keep for a few weeks but I doubt they will last for that long! They can be prepared by cutting in half and scooping out the seeds. They are delicious on their own but my favourite method is sprinkling them over a salad with cured ham or a nice salty cheese.
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1V ;MI[WV :MKQXM[ PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA’S
7HYTH /HT HUK /VUL` 9VHZ[LK 7\TWRPU INGREDIENTS 600g pumpkin, sliced into 6 and seeds reserved 1 tsp chilli akes
tsp chilli akes, ½ tsp salt, the pepper, lime zest and juice. Roast in the oven for 30-40 minutes until crunchy, tossing halfway. 3. Place the pumpkin slices in a roasting tin and cover with a mixture of walnut oil, runny honey and thyme leaves.
1 tsp lime zest 1 tbsp lime juice 2 tbsp walnut oil
4. Sprinkle the remaining chilli akes and the paprika over the pumpkin, season and cover with foil.
2 tbsp runny honey 6 sprigs fresh thyme 1/2 tsp paprika
5. Roast the pumpkin for 30 minutes, remove foil and roast for a further 20 minutes, basting at regular intervals, until the sauce and pumpkin slices have caramelised.
Salt and black pepper TO SERVE: 1 lime 6 slices Parma Ham
6. To serve, wrap the pumpkin with a slice of Parma Ham and cover with plenty of spicy lime pumpkin seeds.
METHOD 1. Preheat the oven to 150°C 2. Mix the pumpkin seeds with ½
www.prosciuttodiparma.com
WHITWORTHS’
4PUP *OYPZ[THZ *HRLZ 4(2,:! 79,7(9(;065 ;04,! 405<;,: *66205. ;04,! 405<;,: INGREDIENTS 180g Whitworths Sultanas 180g Whitworths Raisins 100g glacĂŠ cherries 30g candied peel 50ml brandy 100g unsalted butter 75g dark brown sugar 100g plain ďŹ&#x201A;our 2 tsp mixed spice 1 small orange (zest and juice) ½ tbsp. black treacle 2 medium eggs 50g Whitworths Flaked Almonds Icing sugar, to decorate Pomegranate seeds, to decorate Ribbon, to decorate 10
METHOD 1. Soak the sultanas, raisins, glace cherries and candied peel in the brandy for 48 hours in a co 2. Preheat the oven to 140°C (Fan 120°C), Gas Mark 1. 3. Use 25g of the butter to generously grease the twelve cups of a deep mufďŹ n tin. 4. Beat the remaining butter in a large mixing bowl until soft and then stir in the sugar. 5. Sift the ďŹ&#x201A;our and mixed spice into the bowl and beat until evenly combined. 6. Add the orange zest and juice along with the black treacle and gradually beat in the eggs, one at a time. 7. Fold the alcohol-soaked fruit and almonds into the batter and gently mix until evenly distributed. 8. Spoon the mixture into the greased mufďŹ n tin cups. Fill to the top of each cup, but do not overďŹ ll.
9. Bake on the bottom shelf of the preheated oven for 30-40 minutes. To test if the cakes are fully baked, insert a skewer or sharp knife into the centre of one of the cakes. The skewer should come out clean. If there is any mixture on the skewer return to the oven and continue baking until the skewer can be removed clean. 10. Leave the cakes to cool completely before removing from the tin. Use a round bladed knife to loosen the sides if required. Store in an airtight container until required. 11. To decorate, dust with icing sugar, wrap a festive ribbon around the middle of each cake and top with pomegranate seeds. www.whitworths.co.uk
> flavour in season recipes
STEPHEN TONKIN’S
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INGREDIENTS 4 medium onions, peeled and roughly chopped 500g leeks, roughly chopped and washed 4kg parsnips, peeled and roughly chopped 200g butter 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 10g thyme 15 litres vegetable stock Salt and freshly ground white pepper TO SERVE Chopped parsley and double cream
METHOD 1. Melt the butter in a large thickbottomed pan and gently cook the onion, leek and parsnips until soft. 2. Add the thyme and cook for a further 2 to 3 minutes. 3. Add the vegetable stock, bring to the boil, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 30 minutes. 4. Process the soup in a jug blender and strain through a sieve. 5. Return it to a clean pan, pour in the cream and correct the seasoning if necessary. If the soup is too thick add a little more stock. 6. Sprinkle with parsley to serve. Stephen is Executive Chef at the Soho House Group – see www.sohohouse.com
THE FOODIES LARDER’S
9VZJ}U +L 9L`LZ A Roscón de Reyes is a traditional Spanish brioche-like sweet bread eaten the night before, or morning of Reyes or King’s Day (6th January). Tradition has the Roscón served garnished with the ‘jewels’ of dried fruit and nuts. It is customary to hide a figure of one of the three kings or the baby Jesus in the cake mix. Whoever finds it has to make the cake the following year! INGREDIENTS Yield: 2 sweet breads FOR THE SPONGE OR STARTER: 50g strong wheat flour 16g fast-acting yeast 10g sugar 30ml milk FOR THE DOUGH: 3 free-range eggs 70g melted butter Zest of 1 lemon Zest of 1 orange 40ml milk 20ml orange juice 80g caster sugar Sponge/starter 400g strong wheat flour Olive oil FOR THE FILLING: 200ml whipping cream 50g icing sugar 50g chopped dried cranberries FOR THE TOPPING: 50g cream cheese 50g icing sugar
30g flaked almonds 50g-80g dried cranberries METHOD 1. For the sponge, mix your flour, sugar, yeast and milk well. Cover and leave to ferment at room temperature for one hour. 2. Lightly beat your eggs together, then add the zest, butter, orange juice and milk. 3. Add the sugar along with your sponge and flour. Knead to a dough that is elastic and shiny. Add a little more flour if needed. 4. Grease a large bowl with some olive oil, form your dough into a ball and place inside. Cover with a tea towel or oiled cling film and leave to rise. Leave it in a warm place until it doubles in size (about 2 hours depending on the room temperature). 5. Once the dough has doubled in size, knock it back and then place on a floured work surface or chopping board. Depending on the
size of your oven, it might be worth splitting your dough into two at this stage and making two smaller roscóns as opposed to one big one. 6. Cut your dough into 12-16 pieces if you are doing one or 6-8 pieces if you doing two. Roll each piece into a small ball. The number of pieces will depend on the size of your cake tin. For example, for a 20 cm diameter cake pan, we used 6 dough balls. 7. Place your dough balls around the side of your cake tin, forming a ring with a hole in the middle, whilst ensuring that you leave about 2cm between each of them to allow them to rise. Ensure the hole in the centre is big enough or it will close up during rising and baking. 8. Cover the tin with a damp cloth and put to one side until the dough rounds have doubled in size (approximately 2 hours).
10. Preheat your oven to 180˚C. 11. Place your cake in the oven and bake for about 20 minutes. Be sure to keep an eye on it though as it can continue to rise while cooking. Once cooked, remove and set to one side to cool. 12. For the filling, beat the cream until it thickens and holds shape, then add the sugar and cranberries. For the topping, mix together the cream cheese and sugar until smooth. 13. When your roscón is cool, remove from the tin and cut it horizontally through the middle so that you have two halves. Spread your filling over one of the halves, and then reassemble. Top with your cream cheese mixture, flaked almonds and dried cranberries.
www.thefoodieslarder.co.uk 11
> flavour fab foodie reads
MHI MVVKPL YLHKZ For bookworms who love nothing more than cooking up a feast for family and friends, our monthly selection of new releases is enough to keep anyone entertained!
PICK OF THE MONTH!
KEW’S GLOBAL KITCHEN COOKBOOK KEW PUBLISHING, £14.95
From the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew comes a new title that celebrates the amazing variety of edible plants and how we can use them. Enjoy 101 recipes using plants from all over the world, divided into chapters based on their origins. From banana bread and blueberry and lavender ice cream to grilled quail with rose petal sauce and green tea crusted chicken breast, the recipes span salads, soups, mains and desserts, with plenty of additional information about how to use and combine flavours to their best effect.
BREWING BRITAIN: THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PINT AND HOW TO MAKE IT ANDY HAMILTON, BANTAM PRESS, £12.99
Bristol-based Andy Hamilton turns to brewing with his latest book: an indepth tour of beer and brewing that is the perfect companion for anyone who enjoys a decent British pint. Learn how to taste beer like the professionals, grow hops, malt your own barley, make British beer and visit some of the country’s finest beer festivals, websites, books and bottle shops – a true encyclopedia for any beer lover. 12
HAMBURGER GOURMET DAVID JAPY/ÉLODIE RAMBAUD/VICTOR GARNIER, MURDOCH BOOKS, £14.99
Discover the secrets of the gourmet hamburger with this new collection of 58 recipes from the team at Blend Hamburger, the Parisian restaurant that has taken the humble burger to new heights. Along with classic burger recipes, try options such as lobster and mango, Thai prawn and beef with foie gras and gingerbread, plus vegetarian burgers including bulgur with walnuts and cumin. A book that will give even the biggest burger lover new ideas for surprising twists on old favourites.
HIDDEN KITCHENS OF SRI LANKA BREE HUTCHINS, MURDOCH BOOKS, £30
In this book, photographer and writer Bree Hutchins shares the results of her travels around Sri Lanka, discovering the country’s hidden kitchens. Hidden Kitchens of Sri Lanka is not just a cookery book – it’s also a book about people. Hutchins uses vivid photography and personal stories to bring to life her adventures, which included roasting coffee beans in a mud hut kitchen, preparing a fish curry at Monaragala Prison and cooking the perfect cashew nut curry at an army camp on the east coast.
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Rother Valley Organics is part of the family run beef and lamb business owned by Shon and Simon Sprackling.
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We sell our own organic Aberdeen Angus beef and lamb and also sell products from other local farmers to offer a wider choice of organic meats such as pork, chicken, turkey, duck and game. All of the meat we sell is fully traceable and prepared on site in our EECapproved cutting plant. Our bronze turkeys are dry plucked and hung – the difference in taste and texture is well worth the effort – try one of ours for Christmas. We deliver all over the UK. Visit the website at: www.rothervalleyorganics. com, Call: 01730 821062 or Email: sales@rothervalleyorganics.com.
?QTL *MMN ?M[\ +W]V\Za .IZU ;PWX Stocking exceptional fare with higher than ‘organic’ production values, the Wild Beef West Country Farm Shop celebrates ‘food as nature intended’. Making its own delicious grass-reared and grass-finished beef, the shop epitomises integrity and self-reliance. The beef is “superb” says Michael Caines, Executive Head Chef, Gidleigh Park; deeply flavoured, richly coloured and full of nutritional goodness drawn from the depths of the Devonshire earth. The shop also offers produce by like-minded artisans from the South West region of England. Seasonal chutneys and preserves, rapeseed oil, golden honey, eggs, flavoured sea salts, poultry, game and meats make perfect festive gifts and hampers are available. Say hello at one of Wild Beef’s farmers’ market locations in London Borough and Broadway - or call 01647 433433 to order a delivery. A selection of the produce available at the Wild Beef West Country Farm Shop.
www.wildbeef.co.uk
Lizzie Vines and Rachael Wellburn at the Wild Beef West Country Farm Shop, Borough Market.
The leanest of all the roasting joints.
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> flavour loves
)SHJR .HYSPJ Black garlic has a soft texture and sweet, balsamic flavour – perfect for enhancing any dish. Don’t substitute for white garlic; chop into risottos, stir-fries and salads, rub into roasts or melt into sauces, dressings and stews. Black garlic has been aged for several weeks, removing all of the odour and problems of bad breath associated with garlic but doubling the level of antioxidants. Available in larger branches of Tesco and Sainsbury’s, and online at www. healthysupplies.co.uk. For recipes visit www.blackgarlic.co.uk.
ÅH]V\Y Loves Looking to try something a little different? Have a look at our round-up of products we’ve recently tried and loved for inspiration...
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7YPTYVZL»Z 2P[JOLU
The UK’s first and only tea company specialising in tea mixology, Bluebird create the most flavourful tea blends around.
Dorset-based Primrose’s Kitchen, started by health foodie and naturopath Primrose Matheson, has become famous for its delicious muesli.
Say Bluebird, “Our innovative approach to tea stems from our passion for mixing up unique flavours to make people smile!” With this engrained into their ethos, Bluebird are leading the flavoured tea market with over 50 exciting blends that have already scooped a bucketful of awards. Don’t miss their limited edition Christmas Cake or Gingerbread Chai blends for the perfect Christmas gift. Visit: www.bluebirdteaco.com
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The handmade, awardwinning muesli contains a balanced combination of raw vegetables (such as carrot and beetroot), gluten free oats, nuts and beneficial seeds and supplements like chia, milk thistle, psyllium and lethicin. Carefully dehydrated to maintain all the nutritional goodness, Primrose’s Kitchen mueslis are available in Wholefoods and Planet Organic as well as delis around the country or online at www.primroseskitchen.com.
> flavour loves
/HZ )LHU *VMMLL What could be better than fresh and delicious coffee delivered to your ou u door every week? No need to think about what to order, Steve from Has B Bean will send you what’s currently new, exciting and tasting great! Each week a different coffee is selected, posted from the roastery just ustt outside Stafford and delivered to your door by Royal Mail (fitting through most stt le letterboxes). The coffee each week is accompanied by a videocast with Steve explaining in n all about the coffee and tasting it alongside you, because life is too short for bad co coffee. of Visit: www.hasbean.co.uk
2LU[PZO 6PSZ ‘Tasty’, ‘British’, ‘healthy’, describes Kentish Rapeseed Oil which has recently won two gold stars in the Great Taste Awards, it’s also available blended with garlic and herbs, jalapeño chilli and lemon which are absolutely delicious! So versatile, it can be used for everything from stir fries to roasting, to dressing and even baking, and is available in wonderful hampers perfect for your foodie friend or family members. Between now and Christmas there is 20% off in their online shop if you enter ‘FLAVOUR’ at the checkout. Visit: www.quexfoods.co.uk
3H +PUL[[L 4HJHYVUZ Handcrafted using traditional methods, La Dinette macarons are the perfect combination of crispness and chewiness that a great macaron should be. All of their macarons are made using natural and organic ingredients (no artificial food colourings here), with a range of classic flavours available. La Dinette offer macaron and sweet treat subscriptions, as well as a macaron making kit, which make the perfect gift for any macaron fan. www.ladinette.co.uk
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> flavour my chef
The key to dinner party success Most people love entertaining. Nothing beats having friends or family over for a special occasion or get-together; anything from a celebratory dinner party or a long, leisurely lunch to a sumptuous Christmas dinner. But do you ever feel you are missing out? The pleasure of feeding one’s guests a selection of fine food can be very rewarding, but for the host or hostess this can be at the expense of half heard anecdotes, missed punch lines and misunderstood points of politics or gossip, as one dashes between kitchen and dining room. Not to mention the frantic search for that last exotic ingredient and hours of preparation over a hot oven. If you love delicious food, lovingly prepared and exquisitely presented, but do not want to do the cooking yourself, then the new My Chef service could be for you. Hiring a private chef or cook has never been easier – you can simply relax and enjoy your dinner party and let My Chef impress your dinner party guests. My Chef is the latest service from Greycoat Lumleys – a trusted name in household recruitment for over 15 years, so we know a thing or two about good service. The inspiration for the new My Chef service came from a real gap in the market to provide an innovative, easy way of dining at home. For some time now, the popularity of dining at home has been increasing, equalled by a growing discernment among the food-loving public. The demand for great food is fuelled by a continuous bombardment of beautiful images of exquisite food in magazines and on cookery programmes, in addition to a booming desire for high-end dining. My Chef fills a gap because it offers stress-free dining at home and makes the experience of high-end dining accessible, without the interminable wait for a high-end restaurant table booking. Clients simply have to choose a chef or cook from one of four levels, which are priced according to expertise – Michelin or rosette experienced chef, personal chef, family cook or cookery school graduate. All the chefs and cooks working with My Chef have been interviewed face to face and been subject to a minimum of two verbal reference checks. They have prior experience working in private households and bespoke environments and are used to working to the highest standards. My Chef has a wide database of thoroughly checked chefs and cooks at all levels. The service encompasses all the needs of the client, from menu planning to shopping, cooking, serving and clearing up, all through one booking and within a budget to suit them. Clients can benefit from all the personal contact and attention to detail associated with having a personal chef or cook. So if you are looking for something more exclusive and bespoke than the food offered by run-of-the-mill catering companies, then hiring through My Chef could be the answer.
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> flavour my chef
Michelin and rosette experienced chefs For anyone with a love of food, who demands elegance, sophistication and a perfectly executed menu, booking a Michelin or rosette experienced chef cannot fail to impress.
Personal chefs Personal chefs are dedicated to their craft and offer a professional experience for clients who want a special occasion to be made truly memorable with perfectly executed dishes, beautifully presented.
Family cooks My Chef offers a huge variety of family cooks, with equally varied experience. My Chef’s family cooks are happy to cater for dinner parties, holidays and shooting parties, whether they are formal or informal events.
Cookery school graduates Our cookery school graduates have recently undertaken a cookery course at a reputable school; they will possess good, basic cookery skills and are often flexible and happy to muck in with other household responsibilities.
Visit the website www.mychefonline.co.uk or call us on 020 7976 6000 for more details on how the service works. We will be delighted to help you find your ideal My Chef.
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> ďŹ&#x201A;avour the power of 3
<0- 87?-: 7. 7. Strapped for cash but dying to dine in style? Emanuelle Lee checks out three ďŹ ne restaurants where the bargains are located at lunch.
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> flavour the power of 3
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If you’re in Mayfair, there’s nothing more of a luxury then being fed by the king of gourmet cuisine, Gordon Ramsey, and when you’re getting it for a steal it’s even more satisfying. Maze is located on the ever-green Grosvenor Square. Straight forward yet relaxed seating greets you, and your head might well turn when perfectly presented dishes speed past you in dapper servers’ arms.
Upon entering Coya, you’re hit with a whoosh of grandeur. Certainly for a lunch time, at least, and you know you’re in for a treat. It’s not what you’d imagine your average Peruvian restaurant to look like but it’s clear they’ve kept some authenticity in their décor…it’s just a little bit more polished. When you’re led down the staircase to your table, the array of colors and antique pieces around the room bring you closer to the Peru you were hoping for, as do the ruby red ceramic-like plates draped in ceviche. Coya has been a hot topic this year. Perhaps it’s the South American of the major league in restaurants. It’s up there in reservation difficulty (and, inevitably, price), so I don’t blame diners for taking advantage of their set lunch menu. Understandably, diners might not know what they’re doing menu-wise at first, but the staff are happy to help and give suggestions that they’ve clearly tried and died for too. If it’s a light lunch you’re after you can enjoy two courses for £19.50, including the Salmon Nikkei: a melt-in-your-mouth, raw salmon dish that’s marinated in celery juice, ginger, daikon and wasabi tobiko, along with a refreshing quinoa salad. If you’re up for a third course for £26.50, the Confit de Pato, an awesomely juicy duck leg, is right up anyone’s alley. If that doesn’t do it for you, for a fourth course it’s £31 and the sorbets are undeniably great.
On a usual visit, you can expect to receive a bill for at least £100 per stomach, so four courses for £30 at lunch is quite giving of Masterchef master, Sir Ramsey. Gordon allows you to choose four dishes from both savoury and sweet menus: a selection that is generous but admittedly slightly complicated, nevertheless tasty. An autumn-friendly spiced pumpkin velouté hits the spot. Perfectly accompanied by salt pollock and lemon yoghurt, it’s warming whilst revitalising. A simple crispy chicken thigh is perfectly cooked, teamed with a charred baby gem. The steamed bream in a ginger infused broth is as comforting as it gets, and the perfect case of Maze’s claim of French food with an Asian fusion. In the ‘sweets’ department, the Frozen Banana with banoffee caramel is the cherry on top of the cake. It’s what you want in a dessert, sweet, sympathetic and not too heavy, despite the milk ice cream that’s served with it, which won’t be forgotten. www.gordonramsay.com/maze/
For a restaurant that has diners leaving in the next jeans size up, the trendy Sumosan has done the ideal job of providing you with a perfectly balanced (satisfying) lunch, not to mention it comes in an adorable Bento box that kind of makes you feel like a kid again (with much more grown up food, of course). Japanese fusion food, that is. With a menu like this, it’s difficult to resist ordering too much on account of wanting everything, but with the set lunch menu, it’s really a “best of both worlds” solution. For £24.95, you sample from pretty much every piece of the menu spectrum. What might that consist of, you ask? Choose one dish from soups, salads, sushi, then a main – like a black cod with miso that dissolves in your mouth and results in you scratching the leftover sauce with your chopstick, or duck teppan). Then, there’s still a side dish to choose: the sweet potato tempura is advised, not forgetting rice, as if all of that wasn’t quenching your hunger yet, and last but definitely not least, dessert: fresh fruit, cleansing green tea ice cream or an erupting chocolate fondant, (probably where the fusion comes in, not something you see every day in Japan, however, most likely the one you’re going to choose).
If you’re willing to add a few pounds to your bill for the sake of Coya’s version of a bread basket, I wouldn’t go back there without ordering the Crocantes: a selection of corn chips and prawn crackers with a crazy tomato salsa.
Expect organised and helpful service from a Japanese server in a uniform that’s the most authentically Japanese aspect of the restaurant. Catch this deal between 12pm and 2.45pm daily and look out for any celebrities trying to make the most of the offer too.
www.coyarestaurant.com
www.sumosan.com
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flavour’s Emanuelle Lee eats her way across London to find out where’s well worth a visit. *WKKI ,Q 4]XW On the covert alley that is Archer Street stands Soho’s newest prize. Bocca Di Lupo, ‘The Mouth of The Wolf’, is certainly worthy of its name, serving modern Italian tapas that no man can resist wolfing down. The ever-changing seasonal menu ensures you’ll be pining for a dish you’ll most likely never enjoy again, so it’s advisable to savour every bite. This time enjoyed and relished was a Puglia-born burrata, along with the artichoke alla giudia, which was memorable to say the least. We also enjoyed the grand selection of home-made sausages, each from a different region of Italy. If not for anything else, they deserve a visit for their wine list, which was named ‘Best Wine List’ by the Tatler Restaurant Awards. Those with a sweet tooth can also tiptoe across the street to their gelato joint, Gelupo. www.boccadilupo.com
>I[KW IVL 8QMZW¼[ 8I^QTQWV The closest thing in London to a traditional Umbrian family’s kitchen is in the heart of Soho at Vasco and Piero’s Pavilion. The menu promises uncomplicated, genuinely delicious, and of course homemade food each and every visit. Simple yet unique dishes like halibut tortelloni and veal escalope have starred on the twice daily changing menu, and it’s always tempting to request a simple spaghetti with tomato and basil ‘for the middle’ since it’s just so good and fresh. Proud waiters seem genuinely delighted to take your order and patient to inform you of the background and content of each carefully chosen seasonal dish. They’ll also tell you how good it is and they won’t be lying. Can’t catch a reservation? The early bird catches the worm. Grab an early dinner at 5.30pm before the fuss begins. www.vascosfood.com
-Ta[MM Serving ‘stick to what we know’ true and tasty Greek food for over 70 years is the family-run Elysee. Dine there once and you’ll be asking to join this eccentric family. It’s the perfect place to start your evening if you’re hoping for an exciting
night out, since you won’t need to leave. Order an inventive cocktail with your meal or go for a stack of plates (you’ll see why). Follow pita bread and authentic hummus with traditional Greek dancing and plate smashing while linking arms in a circle dance with your waiter. By then, you’ll have mustered up enough Mediterranean boisterousness to move to the rooftop bar until the youthful hour of three. If it’s just a bite you desire, a glass (or bottle) of Gaia, Notios Agiorgitiko and the awesome souvlaki it is. The restaurant is remarkably serene with its classic, graceful interior, until, of course the endless stacks of plates are passed around. www.elyseerestaurant.com
B]KKI For the manicured East Londoner, the glossy Zucca is where to find fresh Italian food with an international blend. What’s served is rich but delicate, intricate but not fussy: the sea bream carpaccio being a perfect example. For East London, it’s just about the most formal it’s going to get and for the rest of the city, it deserves the journey across the pond. Diners are invited into an unclad airy venue, and the chefs’ open, efficient kitchen is noticeable at once. Guests are seated and welcomed with just risen-house made bread so there’s no tapping feet. The Zucca Friti, (fried pumpkin tempura) are a must-order, as the restaurant’s name might suggest. www.zuccalondon.com
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With an exciting line-up of London’s best restaurants and chefs, foodie entertainment and a boutique Christmas food market, Taste of Christmas is the culinary event of the festive season. A change of venue means that the event is now taking place at the historical Tobacco Docks – read on for more information…
21 – 24 November
2OLYLHU·V %DNHU\ The early years… Olivier’s Bakery is a journey that has had many twists and turns. Born into a true Breton Family, Olivier was raised on a noble diet of buttery croissants and crusty baguettes before he could speak. A long journey… The young Olivier was a passionate soul, with a taste for the finer things in life. After following an early career as an apprentice Patissier (in the good old days when the rolling pin was mainly used for discipline, not rolling pastry!), Olivier packed his bags in 1999, deciding to embark on a life in London. London life… Olivier started his London career working for the renowned Patissier ‘Didier’, moving to the Conran Group
and working at the newly refurbished ‘Bluebird’s in Chelsea. In 2001 Olivier started work at Flour Power City Bakery. Olivier’s Bakery… Opened in autumn 2011, trading at markets across London (including the famous Borough Market), Olivier’s also has a select handful of wholesale customers. Olivier’s Bakery offers a large variety of breads and pastries, from their famous 100% sourdough to their lightly yeasted bread. They also offer not only a 100% spelt bread, but also 100% spelt croissants, cookies and tea cakes. Most products are made using Shipton Mill organic flour, Ted Dawson veg and some of the best UK-sourced ingredients: creating products that are all made with love and passion.
For more information, visit www.oliviersbakery.com
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> flavour taste of christmas
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&KULVWPDV 21 – 24 November
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> flavour taste of christmas
Discover a Christmas Less Ordinary at Taste of Christmas this November. Moving to the enchanting venue of Tobacco Dock and with an exciting line-up of London’s best restaurants, foodie entertainment and a boutique Christmas food market, the all-new Taste of Christmas really will be the culinary event of the festive season. Taste incredible signature dishes from some of London’s hottest restaurants... New to this year’s event are: Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, Italian restaurant Acciuga, Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa, old street favourite – Beard to Tail, pop-up maestros Disco Bistro (feat. The English Laundrette & Rock Lobsta), The Hix Group (feat. Tramshed, Hix Soho & Hix Chophouse) and gastro pub favourite The Truscott Arms. Alongside these exciting new additions will be a selection of Taste favourites including Benares, The Cinnamon Club, Club Gascon and the Salt Yard Group. Find seasonal inspiration from top chefs including Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Mark Hix, Monica Galetti, Valentine Warner, Eric Lanlard, Michel Roux Jr and Gizzi Erskine as they put their individual twists on Christmas classics in the Electrolux Taste Theatre. Indulge in patisserie masterclasses plus
cheese and wine and chocolate tastings, focus on your senses as you sample whiskies in the dark, or challenge your tastebuds in the cocktail mixology demos and learn the culinary secrets of the experts in the interactive Electrolux Chefs’ Secrets! If you’re looking for unique ingredients and foodie gifts, you’ll find all you need in the Christmas Food and Drink Market. With over 180 fine food and boutique food and drink stalls – from the finest chocolate and confectionery, to seasonal ingredients and wines, you will find all you need to create the perfect Christmas. If all this is too much, take a break and relax in style in the LaurentPerrier Champagne Bar! Tickets are on sale now from www.tasteofchristmas.com or call 0871 230 7132
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> ďŹ&#x201A;avour taste of christmas
2SLKU 2ULHQWDO 6SLFHG *LQ Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin is a unique style of London Dry Gin launched in July 2013.
Pronounced {o-peer}, Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin is named after a legendary region famed for its wealth and riches which prospered during the reign of King Solomon. Although its exact location is unknown, it is thought to have been in the Orient, along the ancient Spice Route.
including China Tang and Dishoom.
Traditionally merchants would travel thousands of miles along the Spice
Route, trading exotic spices from distant lands. Using over 250 years of tradition and expertise, Opihr features hand-picked botanicals that epitomise the exotic intensity of the Orient: spicy cubeb berries from Indonesia, black pepper from India and coriander from Morocco. It is available in seven regional Harvey Nichols stores and over 100 Waitrose stores across the UK, as well as in a range of bars and restaurants
The Red Snapper
Opihr G&T
Opihr Chai Brew
INGREDIENTS:
A healthy measure of Opihr Spiced Gin served with Indian tonic originating in British Colonial India, enhanced with a touch of fresh exotic ginger, originally cultivated in south Asia. A beautifully fragrant tipple.
A comforting warm blend of Opihr Spiced Gin, fragrant chai tea and sweet port to ignite your spice of life.
50ml Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin Tomato juice 4 dashes Worcestershire sauce 2 dashes Tabasco sauce Squeeze of lemon juice Pinch of salt and pepper Ice Celery stick to garnish METHOD: 1. Fill a tall glass with ice. 2. Pour in Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin. 3. Add Worcestershire and Tabasco sauce, lemon juice and salt and pepper. 4. Fill to the top with tomato juice. 5. Garnish with celery.
INGREDIENTS: 50ml Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin Fever Tree Indian tonic METHOD: Fill a tall glass with ice, add gin & top with Fever Tree tonic.
The rich oriental spicing of Opihr makes it perfect for cocktails, such as the followingâ&#x20AC;Ś For more information, visit: www.opihr.com www.facebook.com/OpihrGin www.twitter.com/opihrgin
INGREDIENTS: 40ml Opihr Oriental Spiced Gin 20ml port 10ml sugar syrup 160ml chai tea without milk METHOD: Served in copper cup with cinnamon stick & orange peel as garnish.
Garnish - an orange studded with cloves
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Austral
The tale of a true craftsman Angela Mount meets legendary winemaker Sandro Mosele of Kooyong Estate “I never drink my own wines at home, I drink other people’s wines so that I am always exploring and learning; I want to be inspired.” This quote from one of the world’s most respected winemakers, Sandro Mosele, says a great deal about the man himself. Inquisitive and intuitive, Sandro displays an incredible respect for nature and winemaking, and has an endearing humility about his own incredible achievements – a true craftsman, combining the practicality and logics of a scientist with the flair of an artist.
Angela Mount is a wine expert, writer and presenter. Probably best known for having her taste buds insured for £10m by her former employers Somerfield, she is passionate about helping wine drinkers discover new and exciting wines. She also writes and presents events about wine and food matching, judges at all the major UK wine competitions and chairs the judging panels for the Bristol and also the Bath Good Food Awards.
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I met Sandro on one of his whistle-stop tours of the UK, when the canny team at Great Western Wine managed to grab an evening of his time to showcase his award-winning wines at a dinner at the Allium Brasserie by top chef Chris Staines – an evening with a creative and artistic winemaker combined with the perfectionist and highly artistic chef was one not to be missed. Sandro is an Australian (of Italian origins) who studied genetics and applied science at university and then discovered winemaking. He is the genius behind one of the top wine estates in Australia’s premium winemaking region of Mornington Peninsula, who fell in love with the concept of creating superlative wines,
and whose vision and craftsmanship has taken this winery, started only in 1995, to an iconic status worldwide. Firstly, let me paint a picture of the Mornington Peninsula, which will set it apart from so many other Australian wine regions. It is a small area that lies 50km south of Melbourne, and stretches out into the Southern Ocean, influenced by the gulf winds, and often battered by the wind and rain that rolls in from the sea. It is the region of Australia that most resembles Europe in terms of weather, although the summers are far hotter, but the nights are cool, mists and fog roll in, and the winters are very cold. This is part of the alchemy, which enables Sandro to create the aristocratic, magical ones of Kooyong. Kooyong is world famous for its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; these grape varieties suit the climate, and also reflect Sandro’s personal passion for Burgundy; the elegance, and nervy restraint of the top wines of this region are reflected in the wines he makes, although they are unique in themselves. He is passionate about letting the grapes get on and do what they do best, with as little interference as possible. ‘Hands-off winemaking’ is what he subscribes to – let the wines be created from the very best of what we have, with gentle guidance; his scientific
> flavour wine school
background comes to the fore as he describes fermentation techniques to me, but also his focus on organic production and his focus on ‘soil health’, and the organic practices he puts in place to get the very best out of the vineyards. Kooyong produce wines across five vineyards on their estate, some blended across the five, and others a unique expression of the individual vineyard, each with unique character. So let’s talk about the wines. First up was the Kooyong ‘Beurrot’ Pinot Gris 2011 (GWW £19.95), a wine inspired by one of Sandro’s trips to Burgundy, where he discovered the Pinot Gris. This is a gloriously fragrant, dry white, full of heady, peach, apricot and honeysuckle scents, with a racy freshness, fresh acidity and texture – very unique in style.
by an intense edge of minerality and freshness. This is thoroughbred stuff! We also tasted the impressive Kooyong Faultline Chardonnay 2012 (GWW £42.50), a single vineyard, glorious wine with power, depth and intensity, creamily rich and textured, yet with a searing minerality which puts it on a par with some of the great Cotes de Beaune whites. Kooyong is world famous for its Pinots, and the pressure on the Allium’s Head Chef was intense – he wisely chose a dish of roast partridge, with Morteaux sausage, a julienne of earthy celeriac and thyme, and a poached pear, with puy lentils – a heady dish with a myriad of flavours, which caroused around and settled beautifully into this autumnal feast.
Chris Staines had come up trumps with an autumnal menu to suit the wines – his cream of cauliflower soup, a thick purée, with textured, pickled cauliflower cubes, combined with meltingly tender flakes of confit and smoked salmon – sharp, smooth and earthy – was the perfect starter for the Kooyong Chardonnays.
Kooyong ‘Masale’ Pinot Noir 2011 (GWW £19.95), is a very fine and racy Pinot, with a bright, vibrant style – it has a wonderful freshness of fruit, with freshly crushed raspberries, ripe red cherries and a hint of sweet, earthy beetroot character. It has lots of savoury character, with a rich, opulent initial flavour, underpinned by a nervy, taut structure, a leafy edge and a sublime, wafting elegance.
Kooyong Clonale Chardonnay 2012 (GWW £19.95), is a wine which would give most good white Burgundies a run for their money. Opulent, yet seamlessly restrained, it is full of ripe aromas and flavours of ripe, russet apples, succulent pears and toasted hazelnuts, with a rich, buttery, creamy texture, lifted
We also tasted the glorious Kooyong ‘Ferrous’ Pinot Noir 2010 (GWW £46.50), from one of the individual vineyards; a powerful, but still sleeping giant of a wine, which is currently full of brooding, dense, black cherry and fig fruit with a steely core, reflecting the high iron content of the vineyards’ soil; a highly
distinctive, multi-faceted Pinot, with great finesse and complexity – a wine I’d love to drink in five years’ time. The finale was spectacular, both in terms of wine and food. Sandro had decided to showcase another Pinot Noir – a challenge for a dessert; Chris Staines’ response was inspired – a slab of aged Comte cheese, with semi-dried figs, shavings of macadamia nuts and white chocolate – an assault on the taste buds, but would it work with Pinot Noir? Oh yes, and how! One of the most unlikely, but perfect matches I have ever come across. Kooyong ‘Meres’ Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 (GWW £46.50), is an overwhelmingly seductive, polished Pinot, which is currently teasing tasters with its glorious depths; a real beauty, with an ethereal spirit, a lightness of touch, and a silky elegance. Full of raspberry and cherry fruit fragrance, this is a velvety temptress of a wine which will continue to beckon over the coming years. Sandro Mosele is a true artist and sensitively controls the orchestra that is made up of every element of the Kooyong estate and winery. Scientific know-how and intuitive passion is an inspired combination. The wines speak for themselves.
All wines are available from www.enotria.co.uk 27
> flavour tablet review
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*\Z[VTLY 9L]PL^ ;HISL[ 3H\UJOLK PU :V\[O >LZ[ TECHNOLOGY experts BSTech Ltd in Bristol have launched an innovative customer review tablet system believed to be the first of its kind in the world.
The ‘How Are We Doing?’ system aims to generate live customer feedback in the leisure and hospitality sector by gaining real-time reviews from diners. Customers are handed touchscreen tablets and asked to complete a short review of their experience, with the aim of highlighting any problems to be dealt with. The system is the brainchild of Andrew Reynolds, who invented the fully managed system for the sector after being asked to transcribe hundreds of handwritten reviews. Since launching the system it been taken on board by The Mezzé Restaurants chain across its South West sites and The Indian Cottage in Penhow, South Wales. Further discussions are currently underway to branch out to other restaurant chains across the region. Andy said: “Technology is changing the world around us and today the vast majority of people run their lives from their smartphones and tablets. “I realised that there was a niche in the market for an electronic realtime review process rather than people filling in customer cards or using internet review sites. “So I created the ‘How are We Doing?’ system and after a successful trial, which saw a 25 per cent increase in bookings in one venue, I decided to roll it out.
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> flavour tablet review
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“Customers love the touchscreen technology and the venues say it is having a huge impact on the way they manage their businesses and with customer retention levels. “It also gives customers the option of subscribing to the venue so they can stay in touch and receive news of the latest events and offers via email campaigns.” The ‘How are We Doing’ tablets allow diners to instantly rate their food and service and their comments are then sent directly to management and via live feed to Facebook, Twitter and company websites. The system also includes a trigger for any diners who have the unlikely experience of a negative review which alerts restaurant managers immediately via text message. Andy added: “The vast majority of people leave highly positive feedback but in the instance that there is a negative review, management can tackle this immediately. “The system is fully managed with monthly reports produced including geo-graphically identifying where customers have come from. “By gaining people’s views these venues can see how we they can improve and keep their customers coming back. “I am positive that the system will be a fantastic addition to the hospitality sector.” For more information on ‘How Are We Doing?’ please visit www.how-are-we-doing.co.uk or call Andrew Reynolds on 07703 619175. 29
Advertise with Flavour Want to reach thousands of food lovers in London? Flavour offers competitive rates to local food and drink businesses.
Great British Meat Co. From farm to fork for 60 years Buying British has never been so important, which is why
For more information, call Miranda on 0117 230 0235 or Paris on 0117 977 9188. www.ďŹ&#x201A;avourmagazine.com
at the Great British Meat Co. we can track every steak, chop or shoulder back to the farm where it was reared. If, like us, you value good breeding and high quality then give us a try. Whether looking for the everyday essentials or something a bit special, we can deliver straight to your door.
Call: 0191 448 9301 Visit: www.greatbritishmeat.com Email: hello@greatbritishmeat.com Twitter: @meat_people Facebook: facebook.com/greatbritishmeatco
Foodie Gifts F From chutneys h t and d cookery classes to hampers and homewares, those buying Christmas gifts for foodies have a huge variety to choose from. Have a flick through flavour’s festive foodie gift round up for some inspiration…
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> flavour festive foodie gifts
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A ‘Foodies Hamper’ from The Foodies Larder is a handpicked selection of natural food and ingredients sourced from artisan producers around Spain.
A great gift idea for keen cooks is an Ashburton Cookery School gift voucher, available from £50.
Every month, there is a fresh selection of gourmet goodies – each different from the last, and each based on the season. Gift hampers are available as a one off hamper or as a 3 or 6 month subscription. A single hamper is priced at £30, with the 3 month plan priced at £90 and the 6 month plan discounted at £165. All plans include delivery to any address in mainland UK. A perfect gift, as the gifts just keep on coming, even long after Christmas!
Voted Cookery School of the Year, this Devon school offers over 40 cookery courses – from one-day courses to weekend breaks and longer cookery holidays so you can be sure you will find the course. Master a specific cuisine such as Italian, Indian or Thai, or specific skills such as patisserie or fish and seafood. Quality B&B accommodation is also available.
Visit our site www.thefoodieslarder.co.uk to see what’s going to be in this month’s Foodies Hamper. Order before the end of November to secure your hamper in time for Christmas.
Ashburton Cookery School Old Exeter Road, Ashburton, Devon TQ13 7LG Call: 01364 652784 Visit: www.ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk
+PJRPUZVU 4VYYPZ *OYPZ[THZ /HTWLY Downton Abbey lovers will surely approve of this beautiful wicker hamper appearing underneath their Christmas tree. Hand selected by Dickinson & Morris, one of the oldest bakers of Melton Mowbray Pork Pies in the country, this Christmas hamper is a delicious festive treat of traditional Christmas fayre. By locally sourcing the products, Dickinson & Morris has included some of the finest quality cheeses you can find including Colston’s Blue Stilton and Red Leicester cheese, homemade chutneys and a rich Melton Hunt Cake. Pride of place in the hamper is the award winning Dickinson & Morris extra-large pork pie and tucked away are treat sized mini pork pies perfect for the Boxing Day buffet table. The hamper also includes Dickinson & Morris hand-linked sausages and a bottle of Sunnycliff Chardonnay, a full bodied Shiraz, as well as a bottle of Sparkling Saumur to add a little sparkle to Christmas Day! The Dickinson & Morris Christmas hamper costs £99. To place an order online, visit www.porkpie.co.uk or call 01664 482068 32
> flavour festive foodie gifts
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At Christmas time it’s always good to have a few alternative drinks on hand, and Essential has a fantastic range of herbal teas. The teas are all ethically-sourced, organic and Fairtrade, with Essential’s farming partners (Sekem – a farming cooperative in Egypt) growing the plants biodynamically. The range is packaged in distinctive designs and jewel-like colours that make a truly beautiful gift. At just £8.00, the full selection of 6 teas (Camomile, Camomile & Spearmint, Fennel, Hibiscus, Peppermint and Peppermint & Spearmint), as a set, makes the perfect ‘Secret Santa’ for the office, present for your child’s teacher at school, or a thank you token for friends and family who are offering you hospitality during the festive season. www.ethicallyessential.coop
*OVJVSH[L *OYPZ[THZ º-VY @V\» I` +LTHYX\L[[L -PUL *OVJVSH[LZ For the 2013 festive season, Master Chocolatier Marc Demarquette has asked his customers what they will be putting on their Christmas wish list this year. Inspired by the feedback, Marc has created a unique and tasty selection especially ‘For You’. For the Traditionalist A unique chocolate Christmas tree and flavoured bauble gift box. Each stylish presentation box includes a hand painted chocolate tree made entirely with silky smooth 40% Malagasy milk chocolate and a selection of chocolate baubles in four festive flavoured caramels: Apple & Spice, Clementine, Cranberry and Cornish Sea Salt. RRP £25 For the Sharer Master Chocolatier Marc Demarquette has created a special Limited Edition Festive Caramel Collection with both inspirational and traditional flavours: Apple & Spice, Clementine, Cranberry and Cornish Sea Salt. RRP £19.75 (box of 20 caramel chocolates) For something a little different, why not try the Limited Edition Grandiflorum Truffle Logs? These are chocolate but not as we know it, made with Brazilian Theobroma Grandiflorum – a cousin of the cocoa plant. Demarquette are delighted to be one of the first pioneers in the UK to use Theobroma Grandiflorum as part of their range of discoveries. The 85% ‘not chocolate’ offers intensity of flavour and a powerful punch on the palette, yet the smooth and creamy texture delights with a light and gentle experience. These products (and many more gift options) will be available online at www.demarquette.co.uk, with some products also available at selected department stores (including Harvey Nichols) and high end delicatessens throughout the UK.
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> flavour festive foodie gifts
)\MMHSV ;YHJL .PM[ 7HJR AVAILABLE FROM £26.99
;OL )\MMHSV ;YHJL Mint Julep
Award-winning Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon is the stuff of legend, acclaimed to be ‘one of the world’s great whiskeys’. This Christmas, make it easy for yourself with the limited edition Buffalo Trace gift pack, complete with the legendary liquid, a traditional julep tin cup and a nifty cocktail book.
The Mint Julep is traditionally served in a stainless steel cup and piled high with crushed ice. Hold by the bottom to allow frost to form on the outside of the cup.
Available from 1 December 2013, grab an exclusive gift pack from your local supermarket, specialist retailer or online retailer while stocks last.
online at The Spirit Cellar and The Whisky Exchange, plus many other fine retailers. www.buffalotrace.com
INGREDIENTS 50ml Buffalo Trace Bourbon 15ml sugar syrup 2 large mint sprigs METHOD Remove mint leaves and lightly smack. Place the mint in the bottom of your glass or julep tin. Add crushed ice, Buffalo Trace and sugar syrup. Stir so the mint is evenly distributed. Garnish with an additional mint sprig for aroma. The Buffalo Trace Gift Pack is available at selected ASDA stores, Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism Wines, selected Tesco stores, selected Waitrose stores and
6SP]PUV /HTWLYZ This Christmas forget the dull gift sets and the interminable cookery books and treat the foodie in your life to something a little more special – authentic Sardinian food and wine. Part of legendary restaurateur Mauro Sanna’s Sardinian “empire”, hugely popular Belgravia-based delicatessen Olivino offers the UK’s best selection of fine quality Sardinian food and wine, with new consignments shipped weekly from Cagliari. Perfect for the festive season is a range of gorgeous hampers that can be filled with all manner of goodies - cured meats and cheeses, caviar, home-made condiments and the odd beverage or two. Prices start from just £35 for a small hamper and Olivino’s friendly and knowledgeable staff will be delighted to advise on the best products to buy. Imported especially for the festive season, meanwhile, are handsome wooden wine boxes that are available in a variety of sizes, from one to five bottles.
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Olivino will also be stocking its own label panettone, supplied by an artisan bakery in Sardinia, along with marrons glacés, those irresistible candied chestnuts that are a holiday staple in Italy.
To place an order, just call 020 7730 9042. Olivino, 12 Lower Belgrave Street, London SW1W 0LJ www.olivorestaurants.com
> flavour festive foodie gifts
+PZJV]LY `V\Y KHYR ZPKL ^P[O (WV[OPJ 9LK ;OL IYHUK UL^ LUJOHU[PUN HUK T`Z[LYPV\Z YLK ^PUL 6U ZHSL UV^ H[ HSS THQVY YL[HPSLYZ Wine aisles across the UK are now getting a touch of the dark side with bold new Apothic Red, perfect for enchanting evenings in, or to add an extra level of sophistication to any occasion.
Named after a mysterious place, Apotheca, where vintners stored their most coveted concoctions in 13th century Europe, Apothic Red blends Old World intrigue with modern sophistication. Its distinctive character makes Apothic Red stand out from the rest, not only because of its iconic black label and mysterious red logo, but because of its truly unique and captivating taste. Capturing and blending brambly, fruity flavours of Zinfandel and the soft mouthfeel of Merlot, layered with elegant blueberry notes of Syrah, supported by bold dark notes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Apothic Red temptingly reveals intense aromas of rhubarb and black cherry, complemented by hints of mocha, chocolate, oak and vanilla. Each lingering mouthful is velvety, and plush and the smooth finish rounds out this intriguing full-bodied blend making it the perfect red wine indulgence. A true original with an ABV of 13%, Apothic Red is THE sophisticated wine choice. The beautifully blended red wine has already taken Canada and the US by storm, and its mysterious touch is set to do the same in the UK – and at a RRP of £9.99 it’s a sophisticated wine choice at an affordable price. Apothic Red is available at all major UK retailers including Tesco, ASDA and Sainsbury’s. Please visit www.apothic.com for more information.
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Your lifestyle guide to all things eco...
Choose Green New green discount club: free membership
Weleda Win the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pomegranate skincare range
Abundance New campaign for a green Father Christmas www.greenlivingmagazine.co.uk
greenliving
Pomegranate power from Weleda! 7VTLNYHUH[LZ SVVR SPRL THZZP]L *OYPZ[THZ IH\ISLZ PU [OLPY [YLLZ HUK HYL ]LY` MLZ[P]L ^P[O [OLPY ^VUKLYM\S YLK JVSV\Y ;OL` HYL HSZV WHJRLK ^P[O NVVKULZZ ^OPJO PZ ^O` NYLLU ILH\[` WPVULLY >LSLKH OHZ THKL [OL TVZ[ VM [OPZ Z\WLYMY\P[ PU P[Z VYNHUPJ ZRPUJHYL YHUNL MVYT\SH[LK [V YLQ\]LUH[L HUK YLZ[VYL YHKPHUJL ;OPZ YHUNL PZ WVZP[P]LS` I\YZ[PUN ^P[O HU[PV_PKHU[ YPJO WVTLNYHUH[L ZLLK VPS [V LUOHUJL [OL ZRPU»Z UH[\YHS ]P[HSP[` HUK LUJV\YHNL [OL ZRPU»Z YLNLULYH[PVU WYVJLZZ >LSLKH»Z VYNHUPJ WVTLNYHUH[L JVTLZ MYVT [OL MLY[PSL ]HSSL`Z VM ZV\[OLYU ;\YRL` ( [OYP]PUN MHPY [YHKL MHYTPUN WHY[ULYZOPW
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For more information, visit www.weleda.co.uk
greenliving
New Campaign for a Green Father Christmas Now the holidays are coming, with better gifts
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www.abundancegeneration.com/greensanta
greenliving
Get your free membership for Choose Green the UK’s only green discounts club *OVVZL .YLLU PZ H UL^ NYLLU KPZJV\U[ JS\I [OH[ THRLZ P[ LHZPLY HUK JOLHWLY [V I\` VYNHUPJ HUK LU]PYVUTLU[HSS` MYPLUKS` WYVK\J[Z (Z [OL VUS` NYLLU TLTILYZOPW JS\I VM P[Z RPUK J\YYLU[S` VWLYH[PUN PU [OL <2 *OVVZL .YLLU NP]LZ TLTILYZ L_JS\ZP]L KPZJV\U[Z VM IL[^LLU VU NYLLU HUK VYNHUPJ WYVK\J[Z
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An annual membership is normally £40, but Green Living Magazine has been able to secure one-year free memberships for readers until 15th December 2013. Just register your details at the www.choosegreen.co.uk using the code GREENLIVING to claim your free membership.
greenliving
New Seed Pantry Christmas gift that keeps on growing all year round! Seed Pantry’s Dad and Me Veg Seeds Starter Pack is the ideal Christmas gift for green-fingered Dads and junior chefs. >P[O *OYPZ[THZ Q\Z[ HYV\UK [OL JVYULY :LLK 7HU[Y` OHZ SH\UJOLK [OL KLSPNO[M\S UL^ +HK HUK 4L =LN :LLKZ :[HY[LY 7HJR ¶ H NYLH[ NPM[ MVY NYLLU ÄUNLYLK +HKZ HUK HSS [OL MHTPS` [OPZ MLZ[P]L ZLHZVU
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www.seedpantry.co.uk
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> flavour sign off
>PSS ^VYR MVY MVVK¯ Katie Taylor opts for hard work over convenience
I spent most of Sunday picking and preparing rosehips to make rosehip and apple jelly. Actually, although it felt like most of Sunday, in reality it was probably only about two hours. I wandered along the hedgerows in a smugly bucolic manner, hunting out the little scarlet-red berries. I found a bush filled with particularly plump rosehips in the churchyard, which I snipped off rather guiltily, as though God was watching me steal. I left a few on the bush for the sake of good karma, and, on hearing the approach of some local residents, hotfooted it out of there with my brimming carrier bag. I took my loot home and set about teasing the rosehips reluctantly from their stalks, then boiling them down to a repulsive looking pulp along with some cooking apples. The resultant goo then had to be suspended in a jelly bag and allowed to strain overnight, drip by frustrating drip,
into the optimistically large bowl below. In the morning, the liquid needed to be measured and the appropriate amount of sugar added. Next, the mixture was boiled to within an inch of its life, skimmed and poured into sterilised jars: a good two days of work to produce six jars of jelly. We appear to have lost touch with the enormous amount of effort it takes to produce food. All the picking, washing, packaging and travelling before it even reaches us – it’s easy to forget how much work is involved. The Sunday Times published an article recently about the increasing exploitation of Eastern European workers in supermarket supply chains. We are demanding our food to be prepared for us, more quickly, in more volume and for less money than ever before. This means that the suppliers are hiring workers from Poland and
Read Katie’s blog at roastedrhubarb.wordpress.com. 42
Slovakia to work long shifts for very little pay, to meet supermarket deadlines. Of course, large-scale factory production of food is one of the triumphs of the industrial revolution, enabling enough food to be produced to cope with the rise in population. The convenience of being able to pop down to your local shop and buy a pre-packaged meal, jar of jam or loaf of bread is invaluable. Because of the immediacy of modern food, spending the day making a loaf of bread or a batch of jam from scratch is a pleasurable exercise rather than a gruelling necessity. It’s nice to return, just for a while, to the production process – to see something through from plant to plate. I’m rather proud of my jars of jewel-like jelly. If I leave a jar anonymously on the front porch of the church, maybe God will forgive me…
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