A Historical analysis of Gucci SS18 & AW18 Outfits

Gucci Student Name:Emily Rathbone Student Number:201219903 Module:DESN1375 Word Count:1988 words

Fig.1. : Giacomo Cabrini, 2018.

Contents 3 introduction 5 Gucci S/S18 outfit 5 Shoulder padded jacket 5 Quilted floral skirt 6 cross-body bag 6 Accessories 7 Outfit conclusion 9 Gucci a/w18 outfit 9 jewel neckline marocain jacket 11 Technical Jersey pant with web 11 Patent Leather high-heel slide and lACE tights

12 Rajah maxi tote 12 Outfit conclusion 13 Conclusion 14 Reference list 15 image reference list Fig.12 : Craftwork GB. n.d.

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Fig.3.: S/S18 Catwalk. NSSmag. 2018.

Part of the Kering Group, Gucci is a luxury Italian fashion house established in 1921 (Gucci, 2019). Striving to remain ‘influential, innovative and progressive’ (Gucci, 2019), creative director, Alessandro Michele, is renowned for mixing subversive social themes and appropriating historic styles to direct modern trends. As evidenced in the outfits explored, Michele cross-references fashions from various eras to befit a contemporary context, creating avantgarde clothing with a historical influence. In the following outfits, this is demonstrated through Michele’s pairing of Orientalist styles from the early 20th Century with bold silhouettes and accessories reminiscent of the 1970s and ‘80s.

introduction 3

Flora

Fig.4.: Gucci S/S18 Outfit. NSSmag. 2018.

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GUCCI s/s18 Shoulder padded jacket

Fig.5.: Joan Collins in Dynasty. Vogue. 2016.

Fig.6.: Elton John on stage in the ‘70s. NSS. 2018.

Introduced into the female fashion industry in the 1930s, shoulder padded jackets saw their prime in the 1980s, with the rise of the ‘Yuppie’. Appropriated from the “male wardrobe” and a symbol of authority, the shape was emphasised through the use of pads (Ewing, E. 2001.). Elsa Schiaparelli and Adrian Adolph Greenburg was a key figure in bringing the ‘strong-shouldered look’ to the attention of women in the 1930s, the style propagated a shift in gender roles and symbolised new roles for women in the workforce. With an increase in women entering corporate roles, parallel with the first female Prime Minister in the U.K., skirt suits and wide shouldered jackets became the corporate uniform for women, facilitating visual assimilation in a traditionally masculine environment (Shaw, S. 2019).

Moreover, a fashion icon of ‘70 and ‘80s, Elton John appears to be a muse of Michele’s for the S/S18 collection, with garments directly influenced from stage pieces, and others emblazoned with graphics of record covers. The comparable colour, wide peak cut and exaggerated shoulder shape is redolent of a garment worn by Elton John at his Wembley performance in 1984 (see Fig.6).

Quilted Floral skirt With clear influences from Kenzo’s 1973 ‘Jap’ Paris ready-to-wear collection, and quilting reminiscent of ‘60s and ‘70s hippie culture, the skirt’s shape and length forefronted fashion trends for the following seasons (Grazia,2019).

One of the most influential fashion brands of the 1970s (Cook, G. 2019), Kenzo dictated the direction of fashion showing longer, textured skirts and dresses (Bond, D.1989). Comparatively, this S/S18 collection incorporates longer lengths and quilted textures, another derivation from the ‘old style craftsmanship of the Nature Movement’ (Breneman, JA.2006).

Though the oriental nature of the print can be traced back to the orientalism trend of the early 1900s, the vibrancy of the colours and floral design recalls that of Kenzo’s Fall 1982 collection (see Fig.7.).

Fig.7.: Fall 1982: From Russia with Love. Conde Nast Archive. 2016.

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Cross-body bag The style of cross body bag saw its popularity rise through the bohemian trend in the 1970s.

Commonly in materials including suede and leather, the bags were worn draped across the chest with a long, thin strap, as in this outfit (see figure). Unlike the crossbodies of the 1970s, modern technology created a microfiber lining with a canvas suedelike finish (Gucci, 2018). Michele’s choice may be informed by the current trend for environmentalism and sustainability, as the Gucci website describes the material to have a “low environmental impact” (Gucci, 2018).

Furthermore, the GG logo was first used in the 1970s, another affiliation with the period.

Fig.8 & 9.: Ophidia GG Supreme mini bag. 2018.

Accessories Commonly believed to be of “equal significance” to clothing (Nunez,K. 2018), accessories have been used throughout history my most recorded cultures.

True to his style, Michele takes a maximalist approach to accessorizing for his S/S18 collection, combining styles from across the 19th and 20 centuries.

Brooch Brooches have marked clothing for centuries, serving a symbol of wealth, belief, mourning and also for functionality.

Between the 17th and 19th Century, parure sets were a popular style were adorned by the upper-class and elite as a means of showcasing their wealth (The Loupe, 2015). Coloured gemstones were also favoured at this time, perhaps influencing Michele’s choice of vibrant coloured jeweltoned crystals.

Fig.10.: Rajah Brooch in Metal. 2018.

Necklace Layered beaded necklaces can be traced back throughout history.

Post WWI saw a rise in expenditure on womens jewellery than before, flattering the perceived glamour of the 1920s (House, L. 2017).

Flapper girls and designers such as Coco Chanel became renowned for stacked costume jewellery and layered necklaces (House, L. 2017). However, in spite of this, the style, colour and excessive quantity of jewellery in the Gucci runway outfit is reminiscent of counterculture movements of the 1960s, such as feminist and green groups (Bond,D. 1989.). With the resurgence of a contemporary bohemian style, the Eastern influence of the contrastingly bright jewellery provides a progressive outlook on the freespirited style and providing the eclectic look is at the heart of the Gucci brand (Gucci.2018).

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eyeGlasses Traceable to the 1970s, Michele has drawn inspiration from the oversized spectacles popularised by ‘hippies’ to create the shape that would define the ‘hipster’ style of 2018. Arguably brought to limelight as a result of Netflix and other streaming sites showing programmes from the 1980s and 1990s, designers, including Michele, have been influenced by the eyewear styles (Blumenthal, N. 2017).

Introduced in the late 1940s, acetate frames were a popular alternative, allowing various colours to be introduced (Canales,K.2018).

Another element of the collection influenced by Elton John, wide framed tinted glasses were widely acknowledged as John’s trademark (Okwodu,J. 2017.).

Fig.12.: Coco Chanel. 2016.

Fig.13.: Suffragette Brooch. n.d.

Fig.11.: Riviera glasses. 2018.

OUTfit conclusion The style of the long, ‘heavy’ outfit pays homage to Kenzo’s spring and autumn collections from the 1970s and early ‘80s, specifically with the textured skirt and the full-cut blouse under the knitwear and jacket.

Fig.14.: Ali McGraw 1970s cross body bag.

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Fig.15.:’Look 20’ Gucci A/W18. 2018 .

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GUCCI A/W18

‘layered style’ of the Autumn 1974 (Bond, d. 1998), with a fashion intended to create the illusion of a long, slender neck tracing back to the 1900s (Bond, d. 1998).

The “inherently feminine feel” (Gucci, 2018) of the soft coloured printed marocain jacket, paired with the knitwear and undershirt, creates a vision of classic elegance, yet the contrasting fabrics associated with different historical decades is a fundamental demonstration of Gucci’s design innovation.

Jewel Neckline Marocain Jacket

Fig.16. Barbara Walters’ ladylike suit. 2008.

The ‘Rose Print Marocain Jacket’ is a clear interpretation of the iconic collarless Chanel tweed jacket debuted in the 1920s. More specifically, one may suggest the jacket style is influenced by the popular Chanel suit of the late 1950s and 1960s due to the soft handling of the material, contrasting coloured edging and the stylistic open wearing of jacket (Bond, 1998). Designing for the Dior ‘Silhouette Courte et Mouvante’ collection in 1966 Marc Bohan also referenced a textured jewel neckline suit jacket, emphasising the connection of the style to the decade. Furthermore, the jacket is “complemented by a scarf” (Gucci, 2018), a style of wear synonymous of the typical ‘60s Chanel suit ‘look’, that often included “scarf collars or neckbands” (Bond, D. 1988. p166).

The rose printed off-white silk is a modern interpretation of the feminine ‘country style’ style of 1970s Laura Ashley prints, whose Victorian prints were often composed of small floral designs on soft colours (Bond, D. 1988. p204). Michele’s use of floral pattern amplifies the femininity of the jacket, and ties in with Gucci’s aim create romantic products.

Worn over a knit jumper and tulle undershirt, Michele completes the eclectic look combining the characteristic

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Fig.17.Rose Print Sillk Marocain Jacket. 2018 .

Fig.18.SoCal Surfwear. n.d.

Fig.19.Platform Sandals. n.d.

Fig.20.Natalie Wood socks with shoes. 2019.

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Technical Jersey pant with web

Fig.21.Technical Jersey Pant with Web. 2018.

Originating from the orientalism trend of the early 20th century (1909-1926) (Hennessy, K. 2012), harem style pants also appeared in fashion in the 1970s with the resurgence of ‘global’ fashion, when ethnic and oriental styles made a resurgence (The Artyologist.2016.). The solid colour and jersey material of the Gucci pant, however, incontestably pays homage to the hip-hop and streetwear style of harem pants of the 1990s, with Gucci (2018) affirming the streetwear influence in the product description. At a time when hip-hop defined streetstyle, artist MC Hammer became a key propagator of the exaggerated shaped trouser trend (Rossen,J.2017.). Worn by both men and women at a time when media and music dictated the social scene and streetstyle, the unisex trouser crucially enabled fluid and free movement.

Michele’s resurrection of the classic wide leg trouser symbolises how Gucci’s dictates contemporary streetwear style, pioneering juxtaposing combinations of products to create eclectic outfits that attract attention.Featuring the traditional Gucci red and green colours, the brand’s Italian heritage is reinforced and the product is differentiated from other products on the market.

Streetwear continues to be a defining feature of Gucci’s collections and is often juxtaposed by tailored separates or matched back to T-shirts and sweatshirts.

Patent Leather high-heel slide and lace tights Michele’s chunky high-heeled slide is a re-interpretation of the thick heeled shoes of the 1960s, later adapted to become the ‘disco slides’ popular amongst the 1970s disco scene (Wang, C and Sylvester,Z. 2015.). Favoured by the young demographic of the 70s, Michele echoes the thick heeled style in ‘Look 20’, exploiting Gucci’s famed leather craftsmanship to create a shoe that propagated the ‘slide’ trend of the modern day (Bobb, B. 2018). Moreover, the Michele has adapted the earth tones of the 1970s to suit an autumnal colour-palette.

The patent leather material is a modification of the the ‘wet look’ effect achieved using vinyl, popular in the early 1970s, allowing the shoe a glossy texture with characteristic Italian luxury. Furthermore, the horsebit came to replace the buckle at this time, an asset adopted by Gucci to complete the distinctive sandal (Booth, J. 2018).

Lingerie in the form of laced suspenders, floral, fishnet and seamed tights were a popular fashion in the mid 1980s, worn alongside silks, satins and synthetics (Bond,D. 1998.). Bond (1998) also discusses the use of lingerie to add a degree of sensuality and glamour to the Yuppie wardrobe, a notion favoured by Gucci for its romantic undercurrent and progressive approach to feminine fashion.

In this outfit, Michele interprets a look that gained attention following Natalie Wood’s appearance wearing white knee socks and heels in 1968, a trend which maintained popularity into the 1970s (Adhav, L. 2017).

11 Fig.22.Patent Leather Heel Slide. 2018.

Rajah Maxi Tote The brown suede tote bag derives from the “urban cowboy look” (Bond, D. 1988) that was popular during the 1970s. The black patent leather trim further reflects the original style, as it was the fashion to mix contrasting fabrics and colours, particularly “shiny patent leather” and a texturous fabric (Bond, D. 1988.).

According to Gucci (2018), the enameled tiger feature is “inspired by a vintage Hattie Carnegie jewelry design”. A common theme throughout Gucci’s history, and a common theme in this collection, the tote incorporates a red and green web.

Fig.23.Rajah Maxi Tote. 2018.

Fig.24.1970s Maxi Tote bag. 2019.

OUTfit conclusion The juxtaposition of fabrics, cuts and styles from the feminine design of the 1960s, hippie influence of the 1970s and 1990s street style form a contemporary, ready-to-wear ensemble.

Showcased in a setting resembling an operating theatre, the environment emphasises Michele’s underlying theme of reinvention, re-fashioning factors that are no longer fitting in the surroundings.

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Conclusion In conclusion, in Gucci’s S/S18 and A/W18 collections, Michele uses a maximalist approach to combine past and contemporary styles to create dynamic and ethnically fluid outfits. Interestingly, the styles and silhouettes of both outfits echo female empowerment, with that of a modern interpretation of female power dressing and a jacket designed to be a classic fashion item.

The extensive use of Gucci’s trademark colours, intertwined with vintage aesthetic, allows the collections to stay close their Italian heritage and take an innovative and modern approach to the fashion industry.

Concurring with Michele’s approach to hybridized design, designer Raf Simons discusses “how the foundations of one era are based on another, how the future is based on the past” (Simons, R. 2014. Cited in Dew Magazine, 2014). Thus, it is evident Michele is not alone in his approach to leading the modern fashion industry through reenvisaged historic styles, changing and developing aspects to exploit modern technology, culture and tastes.

Fig.25.Gucci A/W18. 2018.

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Refference List • Adhav, L. 2017. What shoe everyone was wearing the year you were born.[Online]. [Accessed: 7 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/ g14416869/popular-shoe-year-you-were-born/) • Blumenthal, N. 2017. Aviators Return: An old-school frame is new again. New York Times.

• Bobb, B. 2018. The Humble Pool Slide Sandal Gets a Stylish Upgrade. Vogue.

• Bond,D. 1988. The Guinness guide to 20th century fashion. Middlesex: Guinness Publishing Limited.

• Booth, J. 2018. What high heels looked like the year you were born.[Online]. [Accessed: 7 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.interviewmagazine.com/art/the-unknown-history-ofplatform-shoes) • Canales, K. 2018. Spectacular NHS Spectacles. 25 June 2018. V&A blog. [Online]. [Accessed: 14 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/museum-life/spectacular-nhs-spectacles • Cook, G. 2019. Kenzo Takada-The Journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo. Financial Times.

• D, Stimpert. 2017. The Most Far Out Shoes of the 1970s : Top Footwear Styles and Trends.

[Online]. [Accessed: 7 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.liveabout.com/the-most-far-outshoes-of-the-1970s-top-footwear-styles-and-trends-2987831 • Dew Magazine. 2014. Christian Dior Fall 2014 Couture. Dew Magazine.

• Ewing, E. 2001. History of twentieth century fashion. 4th Edition. London, Batsford Ltd. • Gucci. 2019. About Gucci. [Online]. [3 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/ int/en/st/about-gucci • Hennessy, K. 2012. Fashion: the ultimate book of costume and style. London: Dorling Kindersley.

• • House, L. 2017. A look at how jewellery trends have evolved over the past 100 years. [Online].

[Accessed:20 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-4182322/ How-jewellery-trends-evolved-past-100-years.html • JA, Breneman. 2006. America’s Quilting history. [Online]. [Accessed: 2 April 2019]. Available from: http://www.womenfolk.com/quilting_history/bicentennial-quilts.htm • Nunez,K. 2018. Why do accessories matter?. [Online]. [Accessed:17 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.liveabout.com/why-do-accessories-matter-13848 • Okwodu,J. 2017. At 70, Sir Elton John Still Has the Best Collection of Glasses Ever. [Online].

[Accessed:14 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.vogue.com/article/elton-john-70th-birthday-epic-glasses-collection-inspiration • Rossen, J. 2017. A Brief History of MC Hammer’s Pants. [Online]. [Accessed: 7 April 2019].

Available from:http://mentalfloss.com/article/93824/brief-history-mc-hammers-pants • Shaw, S. 2019. The History of Shoulder Pads. [Online]. [Accessed:14 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/a25394199/history-shoulder-pads/ • The Artyologist. 2016. Harem Pants: The most interesting and scandalous history. [Online].

[Accessed: 7 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.theartyologist.com/harem-pants-interesting-scandalous-history/ • The Loupe. 2015. THE HISTORICAL PERIODS OF JEWELRY STYLES AND TRENDS. [Online]. [Accessed:4 April 2019]. Available from: https://www.truefacet.com/guide/jewelry-style-periods/ • Wang, C and Sylvester,Z. 2015. An Illustrated History of the Platform Shoe. [Online]. [Accessed: 7 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/platform-shoe-history

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Image Refference List • Fig.1.: Giacomo Cabrini. 2018. Severed heads, one-eyed cyborgs and baby dragons hit Gucci’s AW18 runway. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019]. Available from:http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ article/39137/1/severed-heads-one-eyed-cyborgs-and-baby-dragons-hit-gucci-s-aw18-runway • Fig.2.: Craftwork GB. n.d.. Gucci Cream Print. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.craftworkgb.co.uk/designer-handbag-print-edible-icing-sheets-handbagcake-1535-p.asp • Fig.3.: NSSmag. 2018. Gucci SS18 Runway. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/12372/gucci-ss18 • Fig.4.: NSSmag. 2018. Gucci SS18 Runway Outfit. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/12372/gucci-ss1 • Fig.5.: Vogue Getty Images. 2018. Joan Collins in Dynasty. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019].

Available from:https://www.vogue.com/article/how-to-wear-80s-power-suit • Fig.6.: NSSmag. 2018. Elton John on stage in the ‘70s. [Online]. [Accessed: 20 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/12387/gucci-ss18-moodboard • Fig.7.: Conde Nast Archive. 2016. Fall 1982: From Russia with Love. [Online]. [Accessed: 10 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.vogue.com/article/kenzo-80s-90s-archival-shows • Fig.8.: Gucci. 2018. Ophidia GG Supreme Mini Bag. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/it/en_gb/pr/women/handbags/womens-crossbody-bags/ophidia-gg-supreme-mini-bag-p-51735096IWS8745?position=10&listName=ProductGrid&categoryPath=Women/Handbags/Womens-Crossbody-Bags • Fig.9.: Gucci. 2018. Ophidia GG Supreme Mini Bag. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/it/en_gb/pr/women/handbags/womens-crossbody-bags/ophidia-gg-supreme-mini-bag-p-51735096IWS8745?position=10&listName=ProductGrid&categoryPath=Women/Handbags/Womens-Crossbody-Bags • Fig.10.: Gucci. 2018. Rajah Brooch in Metal. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/jewelry-watches/fashion-jewellery/for-women/rajah-brooch-in-metal-p-537756I86W78488?position=10&listName=SearchResultGridComponent&categoryPath=Jewelry-Watches/Fashion-Jewellery/For-Women • Fig.11.: Flashbak. 2018. Riviera. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://flashbak.com/70s-glasses-eyewear-disco-decade-beyond-396521/ • Fig.12.: Founders to Founders. 2016. Coco Chanel. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://founderstofounders.com/coco-chanel-to-her-first-investor-i-will-ruin-you9c6ef506c574 • Fig.13.: Museum Selection. n.d. Suffragette Brooch. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.museumselection.co.uk/jewellery/suffragette-brooch/ • Fig.14.: Prince and Park. 2017. Ali McGraw 1970s style. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.princeandpark.com/blogs/blog/fashion-feminism-the-evolution-of-thehandbag-the-1970s • Fig.15.: Gucci. 2018. Look 20 Gucci A/W18. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/shop-the-look/FW18_FSWLook020EU • Fig.16.: Glamour. 2008. Barbara Walters’ ladylike suit. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from: • Fig.17.: Gucci. 2018. Rose Print Silk Marocain Jacket. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/women/womens-ready-to-wear/jackets/jackets/ silk-marocain-jacket-with-rose-print-p-532883ZLQ529196?position=1&listName=SearchResultGridComponent&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Ready-to-Wear/Jackets/Jackets

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Image Refference List (coNTINUED) • Fig.18.: SoCal Surfwear. n.d. SoCal Surfwear. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/316870523752317200/?lp=true • Fig.19.:Queens of Vintage. n.d. Platform Sandals. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019].

Available from:http://www.queensofvintage.com/70s-fashion-platform-sandals/ • Fig.20.: Cosmopolitan. 2019. Natalie Wood socks with shoes. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g14416869/ popular-shoe-year-you-were-born/?slide=2 • Fig.21.: Gucci. 2018. Technical Jersey Pant with web. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019].

Available from:https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/pr/women/womens-ready-to-wear/activewear/technical-jersey-pant-with-web-p-544191X921A4357?position=3&listName=RecentlyViewed • Fig.22.: Gucci. 2018. Patent Leather High-Heel Slide. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019].

Available from:https://www.gucci.com/be/en_gb/pr/women/womens-shoes/womens-sandals/mid-heel-sandals/patent-leather-high-heel-slide-p-536773BNC006629 ?position=254&listName=ProductGrid&categoryPath=Women/Womens-Shoes/Womens-Sandals/Mid-Heel-Sandals • Fig.23.: Gucci. 2018. Rajah Maxi Tote. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.gucci.com/ch/en_gb/pr/women/handbags/womens-totes/rajah-maxitote-p-5372180X7BX2876 • Fig.24.: Who What Wear. 2019. 1970s Maxi Tote Bag. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019].

Available from:https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/1970s-fashion/slide • Fig.25.: Vogue. 2018. Gucci A/W18. [Online]. [Accessed: 30 April 2019]. Available from:https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/gucci/slideshow/ collection#20

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