UFP422 Portfolio

E. K.

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EmmaKarlsson

A/W 23-24

STELLA McCARTNEY

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Brief

This i s a col l ab or atio n w ith St ella McCartn ey fo r th e 2 02 3 2 02 4 Autumn /Winter c o llec tio n wit h a focus on d if f er ent as pec ts of s ustai n ab i l i ty.

M y goal wi th this is to evo lve o n t he sustai n ab i l i t y th at th e br and is a lr eady doi ng and ad d ing m y own take on i t.

Sustainability and ethics, both regarding the environment and society have been a focus for Stella McCartney since the beginning. Stella McCartney has refused to use fur and leather since the funding of the brand and the ethical aspects of animal products are part of their core values that have stayed with them since the beginning of the company.

They have since then started to use bio acetate for sunglasses, stopped using PVC and much more.

Social sustainability is reflected in their production line. They follow the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights as a guide for the best practice in the human rights in the industry as well as having their own codes and policies. Among their policies and codes are their Supplier Code of Conduct, Modern Slavery Policy, the Subcontracting Policy and their Responsible Sourcing guide (Stella McCartney n.d.).

The brand has various ways that they incorporate a circular and sustainable model into the company one of which is regenerative farming. The purpose of regenerative farming is to preserve the natural ecosystem by using for example green chemistry and minimising the nutrient losses while farming. In connection to this, they also make sure that the fibres for their viscous can be traced which is good for accountability (Stella McCartney n.d.).

Another incorporation of circularity is the use of Econyl which is a way to infinitely recycle nylon into fibres that are of as high quality as virgin nylon fibres, and therefore they see it as a truly circular material even though it is a technical material and therefore non-renewable as opposed to a biological one such as linen or cotton which is renewable (Stella McCartney n.d.).

Even though all of this is excellent certain things can be done to make the recycling and therefore the circularity easier and better, such as trying to avoid textiles of mixed fibres. While fibre blends may improve some of the properties, such as stretch they make the recycling process harder (Innovation Origins 2019). That is why one of the sustainability aspects that I want to focus on is the materials used by trying to make sure that the fabric could consist of a single fibre kind.

Sustainability Designing clothes to last is another way to be sustainable which isn’t often used by bigger companies. This can be done by making clothes that can be used across several sizes and therefore accompany the customer for a longer time as their body changes before the clothes are thrown away, donated or just resold. Doing this is also a way to address the fatphobia that is ingrained in the fashion industry for decades (Webb 2020). This is another aspect of sustainability that I want to address and introduce to the company with this collection by using different design elements to make the clothes adaptable in different ways that are a part of it instead of relying on conventional methods such as wrap dresses, be that in width or length.

Nylon

Melting New nylon thread

Pulling new threads

Brand identity

Classy with an edge Classy designs with an edge is common in their collections

Say no to fur Products without animal cruelty have been a priority since the beginning.

Their logo is commonly used on their bags and is simple but not basic.

Omnichannels Webs ite

Bri ck and Mo r tar

In s tag r a m

The brand is active on most social media and have physical stores in, among other cities, London.

Their products can also be bought through sites and stores such as Flannels and Farfetched.

Fac ebo o k

Products Products & pr ic e r ang e

5 900 GBP

L arg e var iety o f pr ic e c ateg o r ies 625 GBP

So met h ing for most a g e groups

1350 GBP

350 GBP

Sim pl e Silhu e t t e s w ith c oo l pr int

550 GBP

850 GBP

Competitors Si mi l a r b 1 540 GBP

Similar prices to Stella McCartney

1 350 GBP

890 GBP

780 GBP

bra nd s

Similar Prints 325 GBP

Similar silhuettes

Similar style to Stella McCartney 140 GBP

495 GBP

405 GBP

Muse A lic ia V ikand er

Her style seems very simple but has a focus on details She has an income that lets her buy clothes from the price bracket that Stella McCartney is a part of, comfortably

As an actor she spends alot of time traveling for different jobs

She is from Sweden where there is a saying “There’s no such thing as bad weather only bad clothes”

Trend Adapti b i l i ty

F lu idity

Concept Flui di t y

Graphics

Graphic moodboard

Prints

K2324SK

G2324SK

Prints

W2324SK

M2324SK

Development Logo

Stella McCartney

x Emma Karlsson

Stella McCartney

x Emma Karlsson

St el n o s l

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cCar M t a

x ne y E m

x ne y E m

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Stella McCartney

x Emma Karlsson

Stella McCartney

x Emma Karlsson

Stella McCartney

x Emma Karlsson

S T Y E

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ARTN Emma Karlsson

E. K.

EmmaKarlsson

TN AR

E. K.

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Fin al L o g o

Development Tag s & Pac kag ing

Advertisment & Marketing Med ia

Website and Instagram

Facebook

Advertisment & Marketing Fys ic al

Line up

Range plan

SK2324CG

SK2324D1O

SK2324S2O SK2324S1O

SK2324PG SK2324D2O

SK2324D1M

SK2324CB

SK2324S2G

SK2324S1G

SK2324PK SK2324D2M

Techniqual flats

Techniqual flats

Techniqual flats

Spec sheet Top 1

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Spec sheet Dre s s 2

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Evaluation Fi n al th o ugh ts

Sustai n ab i l i ty

As a whole I’m quite happy with the sustainability aspect of my collection, I feel that I managed to make clothes that will be able to stay with a customer for a long time as their body changes. I managed to do this with a mix of straps, buckles and knit so that it would fit well in places like the bust and waist. Fabric wise I think that I managed to make garments where the pieces of different fabrics can be easily separated for recycling which was one of the goals that I wanted to achieve with the collection. If I were to sew these, I would have liked to use hemp fabric as a more sustainable alternative to cotton that can still do the things cotton can.

Desi g n

I am very happy with the outcome of the designs, both in silhouettes and details that I have managed to incorporate to keep the overall look cohesive and pleasing to the eye. The trousers in the collection can be adapted lengthwise with the help of straps and buckles.

While one of the dresses has a knitted panel across the chest to accommodate busts of various sizes without having to size up while still keeping the look of the garment.

Devel opment

The logo development was something that I had my doubts about as it was completely new to me. I do think that that hesitation is visible in some of the first ones that I designed in the very basic techniques used. But it seems less visible in the logos where I started to play a little more using paths to create circular text and so on.

The packaging development was an interesting aspect of fashion design that I hadn’t thought much of before this project, and I am happy with the things that I accomplished in this area. It was both fun and educating to learn ways of putting my own prints on blanks and it is something that I look forward to experimenting more with

Ma rket ing

Marketing is something that I definitively wish I had done more of as it was both very interesting and educating. Being able to put my own prints, designs and so on onto blanks and photos of, for example, bus stops wasn’t something that I thought I would be doing but I am grateful to learn it as this experience has shown me how valuable it is. One thing that I wish I had done regarding the marketing is an in-store display to help visualise how it could look if the collection was sold in the stores.

O v e rall

I am proud of the end product of all my work even though there were some aspects that I wish I had worked more on as well as some things that I just didn’t do that I wish I had. Things such as back view illustrations of the outfits which would have looked nice and would help visualise how the outfits and garments would look on a human body and not just filled flats.

References ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, n.d. Bustier Pencil Dress in Denim [digital image]. Alexander McQueen Available from: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/en-gb/denim/bustier-pencil-dress-696905QMABP4118.html ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, n.d. Zip Detail Polyfaille Mini Dress in Black [digital image]. Alexander McQueen Available from: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/en-gb/dresses/zip-detail-polyfaillemini-dress-686873QEACM1000.html ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, n.d. Military Hybrid Trousers in Washed Blue [digital image]. Alexander McQueen Available from: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/en-gb/denim/military-hybrid-trousers-678247QZADW0408.html ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, n.d. Hybrid Culottes Trouser in Navy [digital image]. Alexander McQueen Available from: https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/en-gb/denim/hybrid-culottes-trouser-687201QZAEU0412.html ALICIA VIKANDER FRANCE, 2019. Arriving at the LVMH Prize Ceremony in Paris [digital image]. Alicia Vikander France Available from: https://aliciavikander.us/photos/displayimage.php?album=797&pid=27868 CALCATERRA, n.d. Loose beige outfit [digital image]. Luxiders Available from: https://luxiders.com/ calcaterra-spring-summer-2022-2/ GETTY IMAGES, n.d. Alicia Vikander in airport [digital image]. Vogue Available from: https://www. vogue.com/article/alicia-vikander-white-boot-airport-travel-shoe-celebrity-style INNOVATION ORIGINS, 2019. Recycling textiles - even if the natural fibres are mixed with plastics [viewed 9 May 2022]. Available from: https://innovationorigins.com/en/recycling-textiles-even-if-thenatural-fibres-are-mixed-with-plastics/ JUST JARED, 2017. Alicia Vikander & Michael Fassbender at airport [digital image]. Just Jared Available from: https://www.justjared.com/photo-gallery/3972428/michael-fassbender-alicia-vikander-spotted-at-airport-ahead-of-possible-wedding-19/ JUST JARED, 2019. Alicia Vikander Arrives in NYC After Attending Paris Fashion Week [digital image]. Just Jared Available from: https://www.justjared.com/photo-gallery/4252769/alicia-vikander-nycmarch-2019-02/ KIER IN SIGHT, n.d. Kelp [digital image]. Unsplash Available from: https://unsplash.com/photos/ c1e5dpL6tME KNIGHT, N., 1997. Enteromorpha Intestinalis Hand-coated pigment print [digital image]. Nick Knight: Flora Available from: https://www.dazeddigital.com/photography/gallery/14863/5/nick-knightflora LECAVALIER.STUDIO, n.d. Man in wide trousers [digital image]. WGSN Available from: https:// www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93016?lang=en&show=image.35318191 PAUL SMITH, n.d. Long-Sleeve Henley Dress [digital image]. Paul Smith Available from: https://www. paulsmith.com/uk/ink-spill-jersey-long-sleeve-henley-dress PAUL SMITH, n.d. Zebra Logo Polo Dress [digital image]. Paul Smith Available from: https://www. paulsmith.com/uk/women-s-black-cotton-zebra-logo-polo-dress PAUL SMITH, n.d. ‘Ink Spill’ Corduroy Straight Trousers [digital image]. Paul Smith Available from: https://www.paulsmith.com/uk/ink-spill-print-corduroy-slim-straight-trousers PAUL SMITH, n.d. ‘Abstract Animal’ Parka [digital image]. Paul Smith Available from: https://www. paulsmith.com/uk/abstract-animal-print-parka REPOSITARY, n.d. Wiggly bookcase [digital image]. WGSN Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/ fashion/article/93016?lang=en&show=image.35318178#page5 SEWGUIDE, 2022. Ikat weave [digital image]. Sewguide Available from: https://sewguide.com/

ikat-pattern-weaving/ STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Circularity Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/sustainability/circularity-2.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Social Sustainability Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/ sustainability/social-sustainability.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Harem Silk Trousers [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/harem-silk-trousers-600945STA214000.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. The Skinny Boyfriend trousers [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/denim/the-skinny-boyfriend-372773SNH044008. html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Cargo Pants & corset top Resort 2022 [digital image]. The Glass Magazine Available from: https://www.theglassmagazine.com/resort-2022-stella-mccartney/ STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Pink blazer dress STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Belted Mini Dress [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/belted-mini-dress-604246STA107209.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Scuba Zip Corset [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/scuba-zip-corset-604248STA081000.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Lace up one shoulder top STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Wool Leopard Coat [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https:// www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/wool-leopard-coat--604385STB208500.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Logo Denim Shirt Jacket [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/logo-denim-shirt-jacket-602921SOH598061.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Transparent Crystal Maxi Dress [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/women/summer-2022-collection/transparent-crystal-maxidress--6A0003STA288300.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Tie-Dye Denim Midi Dress [digital image]. Stella McCartney Available from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/tie-dye-denim-midi-dress-604341SOH674502.html STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Cactus STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Blue glass panel STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Sunglasses STELLA MCCARTNEY, n.d. Iridescent handbag SWNDIEVE, n.d. The Kelp Forest at an aquarium in San Diego [digital image]. FreeImages Available from: https://www.freeimages.com/photo/kelp-1369335 WEBB, B., 2020. Challenging a fatphobic industry to adapt Available from: https://www.voguebusiness.com/ fashion/challenging-a-fatphobic-industry-to-adapt