MADE
ed Sw en SWEDEN
1
2
MADE IN – # 3
CONTENT
7
About
4
SWEDEN Cold exterior, warm interior
6
COLOURS of SWEDEN
12
INFOGRAPHCS
22
DESIGNERS CHOICE
14
Inspiration
7
SAMI Mr Skum Samilight
10 14
A COLOURFUL HISTORY
16
FROM FRENCH FASHION TO SWEDISH STYLE
19
KURBITS FROM DALARNA
26
ร RN KLIPPAN Translation of poetry
28
STYLISH STRONG CUTS Dagmar J. Lindeberg
KINGDOM OF CRYSTAL
28
10
22
EDITORIAL STAFF:
Norrkรถpimg 2012
Charlotte Triebus Emmy Hilmersson Fanny Ahlstrรถm Helene Kรถhler Malin Stenstrรถm Susanne Arvidson
3 Tryck: Akitektkopia
SWEDEN
Sweden cold exterior, warm interior
Every country has their own personality, their own charm and their own sense of self. When we’d try to personalise the country of Sweden we found a person that
4
MADE IN – # 3
I
magine the person sitting alone on the outer seat on the bus. She glances a bit around. Not too much, just a little over her shoulder. She does not make much noise and would not be in anyone’s way. If you ask if you can sit beside her,
take up more space than you need to is a part of good manners. Perhaps it is to ensure equity in an otherwise unjust world. Or maybe it’s to keep an order in the society. I do not really think she knows. She just wants it to be as it always has been.
the seat beside her closest to the window. She does not want to be dependent on anyone, so it is not good
Once you’ve talked to her about life, your dreams and
Do not get me wrong. She is not rude. If your bus ride lasted for several miles, you’d certainly be keeping a very stimulating conversation with her. You would traditions, value freedom in life and enjoy the serenity of everyday life. She would certainly talk about their passion in life. She probably has one that occupies a big part of her life.
waiting to get on the bus. She was the person who glanced angrily at the people trying to cut the line. It’s a touchy subject that. To wait for your turn and to not
think existed. Outwardly she may appear a little gray mouse, but inside the shell there is a glow that warms up even the cold winter nights. She can be compared to a big orange. A hard shell. Right bitter in taste. But once you manage to get inside the hard surface, you
hands you her card. She wants you to call when you are around. For her, it is not easy to talk to complete strangers.You have meant more than you can imagine. Beneath the cool exterior underlies a warm and sensitive side of her that is so much stronger than any orange peal can contain. We hope you have found a friend for life.
SWEDEN
5
Archipelago of Stockholm, Sweden.
COLOURS OF SWEDEN The colours of Sweden range from the cold, magic northern lights to the warm summery
Aurora Borealis in Kiruna, Sweden.
6
MADE IN – # 3
SAMI The Sami people, also spelled Sรกmi or Saami, are the Arctic indigenous people inhabiting Sรกpmi, which today encompasses parts of far northern Sweden, Norway, Finland, the Kola Peninsula of Russia, and the border area between south and middle Sweden and Norway.
SWEDEN
7
Mr Skum
T
he carved with burnt birch sticks
of bark. Lying on reindeer skin was reading his uncle from the Bible, it was so Nils learned to decipher letters. As a young man it became his job to take care of reindeer, a yearly trek where no day was ever the same. As time grew his herd of reindeer, but also his interest in creating images. As a selftaught, he created his own style with the materials at hand. He drew and painted on all the material he came across, with the tools at hand. Over the years, he designed more than 3000 drawings, all the stories from his life as reindeer herders and nomads. Since the work of the reindeer took
8
MADE IN – # 3
all his time was not until late in life that he had more time to devote himself to art. He was no longer young when he “discovered” by the outside world. His big picture works Sáme siida – samebyn, is a large document over the reindeer-herding nomads life. The book consists of a few hundred scenes taken from a reindeer keeper memories, each with explanatory comments. In 1937 his images were shown at the World Exhibition in Paris. It was after that, that Skum was known to a wider audience and also internationally. Demand for his work increased as his health deteriorated.Today Skums works spread all over the world. Many of his images are, however, gathered
– “I was rich, our meadow of reindeer was full, and my wife was fat like me”, commented Nils Nilsson Skum one of his pictures of a reindeer herd.
SAMILIGHT The ingredients for a sparkling breakfast are all there. A space station in Northern Sweden, traditional Sami costumes and aurorae borealis. This is the recipe for “Samilight” by Emma Lundgren. “Samilight” is the 20120 S/S collection by the Swede Emma Lundgren, who graduated with honours in textile design at Central Saint Martins and with a master from Royal College in London. Her CV boasts brands such as H&M, John Galliano, Nokia and Nissan. But also exhibitions at New Designers,Young Guns, London Design Week, the Nordic Museum in Stockholm and the Rackstad Museum. And lastly fashion editorials on Dazed and Confused, Form, D-magazine and Tokio. With “Samilight”, Emma short-circuits three large sources of personal inspiration, originating from her Swedish cultural heritage. The graphic patterns on the traditional Sami costumes - nomadic shepherds who live in Lapland – and the futuristic styling of the Esra space research centre. The magical luminous eruptions of the aurorae borealis, so rich in contrasts and shades, just like the “Samilight” collection.
Study design in Sweden Many swedes travel to London to study at different design schools such as Central Saint Martin’s. But as design educations: Textilhögskolan - Fashion design in Borås Berghs school of communication - Graphic design, illustration etc in Stockholm Konstfack - College of art and design in Stockholm University of Linköping - Graphic design in Norrköping Högskolan för design och konsthantverk - College of design and art in Gothenburg
SWEDEN
9
A colourful history The Swedish architectural tradition in the countryside has kept the same style for centuries what material it is applicable. But given the countrys location, and the colors origin, it is perhaps not so surprising. I while that the houses seem very similar to each other. They may not have the same size or shape, but a surprisingly large proportion of the houses (and farms in particular), is made of wooden planks. These in turn have in a very large extent the same color: a brownish red color, with white corner and outlines around windows and doors. What you see are examples of the classic Swedish countryside architecture, dating far back in time. But in the current situation, it is not just farmers who uses this combination of colors
But why is it like this then, you may wonder. Well, that Swedish houses are built of wood to a greater extent than in other European countries is because Sweden has so much of it - wood that is. The entire Sweden sometimes feels like a single, huge forest - especially when you on the motorway do not pass much else than just trees and forests - especially if you go up north where there is so few inhabitants. But what about the colours then? The Swedish cottages, farmhouses and houses are painted in the brown-red color is more the rule than the exception, but it has not so much to do with its aesthetic qualities. It was not a fashionable trend that went on for years and years, no no. The colour is called “Falu Red Paint� and were made from copper from the now UNESCO World Heritage
10
MADE IN – # 3
protected mine Falu Copper Mine outside Falun in the region of Dalarna. The Pigment composition of Falu Red Paint has a prethus protects the houses. Today this is not uncommon when it comes to façade colour, but given that this colour has been used for centuries, it is not just any ordinary paint we are talking about.The history of Falu Red Paint can be traced back to the 1500s and today it is an equally natural choice for architect-designed houses and public buildings to the summerhouse and boathouses. Its protective qualities have made Falu Red Paint to Sweden’s most proven - and Sweden’s best-loved - house paint. Falun Red Paint is produced from pigment from the Falun mine formed “redmull”, which in addition contains a rare copper composition of iron ocher, silica and zinc. The result is a colour with a the rays of light. In the warm evening light the red colour is intense, house that was painted 100 years ago and the few pigment granules So where do the white edges and contours come from then? Well, that however has only to do with the aesthetics - it’s not many colours that suit as complement to brown-red.Today, there are of course more modern alternatives to protective facade colour; yellow, brown and white are three other colours that have become almost as common – and those are also painted with white outlines, naturally.
The Falu Copper mine history of Falu Red Paint can be traced back to the 1500s
SWEDEN
11
12
MADE IN – # 3
The kingdom of crystal – in Sweden called Glasriket – is widely famous for it’s handmade glass and it’s unconventional techniques that has been developed during the years. Here you can discover different types of highly created artwork and also be able to study the detailed craft behind it. Here, to a small community in Småland comes over one million visitors each year. Many of them are here for the second, third and maybe fours time and you can’t really blame them. To see the hot glas melt down to fragile crystal is a sight worth seeing over and over again. Dedom of crystal and it’s success. It was at the worldsexhibition in Paris 1925 that Orrefors – one of the glasmanufacters in the kingdom of crystal – founded it’s reputation in the world.The conception Swedish grace was established by the artists Simon Gate and Evald Halds design contributions. Ever since then has deisgn playes an important role in the community of Småland.
Enjoy a nice meel at the Kosta Boda Art hotels own resturant.
There are no limitations in what you can explore here. You can try glassblowing in the glassworks and take your own glass creation home with you, taste traditional “hot shop herring” in the glassworks, see an art exhibition, visit the glass museum, enjoy a guided tour of glassworks, attend a glass and drink tasting session and, of course, go shopping. The beautiful countryside of Småland Province is always just sions. At the end of 2012 will the kingdom of crystal invite you to a big design festival. During a couple of days in september will the entire everything from glas, paper, wedding gifts, lamps and lots of more.
Kosta Boda Art Hotel is a hotel that is exploding in colour, design and most importantly glass.
So what do you do when you are done exploring all the artworks and glass shops? Well of course you check in to Smålands very own glasshotel right in the middle of the kingdom of crystal. Kosta Boda Art hotel is a hotel that is exploding in color, design and most important glass. The hotel is truly an experience in itself with its glass bar (Glasbaren), various events, glass artwork and specially designed rooms.You can also enjoy a beutiful and well made meal in the hotels own resturant or take a swim in the pool with an underwater-exhibition. The hotel act as a living gallery in constent change where all the artworks are for sale. It’s a fourstar hotel that is perfect for business meetings, conferences and events.
SWEDEN
13
As the demanding perfectionist Karl Lagerfeldt is, does he only cooperate with the best. 14
MADE IN – # 3
From French Fashion to Swedish Style The best thing the creator, photographer and designer Karl Lagerfeld knows is to explore new ways to express himself as a designer. And is there possible a better way to do that than to present a brand new set of crystal-glass as a cooperation with Swedish glass-manufacture Orrefors? As the demanding perfectionist Karl Lagerfeldt is, does he only cooperate with the best. Orrefors glass-manufacture has been around over hundred of years and has a long tradition of handmade glass made by the masters of glass design. Known for his minimalistic idiom has Karl Lagerfeldt now designed this unique set of crystals presented by Orrefors.
cessful career where he has stated his very own idiom. This idiom, known for it clean forms are now famous all over the world. Well aware of Orrefors craft skills, which can be compared with the fashion world’s haut couture, Karl Lagerfeld has created a collection entirely in his own style: strict, subtle and functional. First out of the series is champagne and champagne bowls, wine, water and liqueur glasses. In clear glass, black or white glass permeated the series by Karl Lagerfeld believe in ultra-clean lines. Creator’s with a monogram that prevents any semblance to drop by to look down to the white cloth.
Always looking for new creative experiences, with lots of curiosity has the famous artistn had a unusually suc-
SWEDEN
15
SWEDEN’S 9,415 293 3 MOVING 449 9648.7 20,6 STATISTICS 23 0,885 +46
Ave
<2 225 250 >2
Number of inhabitants (in Million)
Number of cats (in 1000)
Area in qkm
Percentage of Finns living in Swede
of which is Water in Percent
Gini
Density per qkm
HDI
-3
-3
22
22,5
-1
23
3
8
23
20
14
18
19
18
Calling Code
22
20,5
20
23
15
23
9
5
23
22,5
Fik
Temperature in Sweden in Celsius Compared to Temperature in Brasil in Celsius
16
MADE IN – # 3
STOCKHOLM GOTHENBURG MALMÖ UPPSALA
Espre
Average Coffee Consum of Swedish Designers
Average Payment of Designers in Sweden < 22500 22500 – 25000 25000 – 27500 > 27500
Sweden Germany Compared Coffee Consumption Person/Year/Kg Person/Year/Kg
Sweden Sweden Compared Daily Cups Designer Teacher
Sweden Germany Average Cups of Coffee (in 100) Year
Fika Time
Coffee
Milk Coffee
Espresso
Espresso macchoato
Kanelbullar
Caffè Latte
Dammsyckare
Lussebullar
Coffee
Capuccino
Espresso Steemed Milk Hot Milk Cream Cocolate Sirup Kakao Powder
Espresso con Panna
Caffè Mocha
Marocchino
Corretto
Caffè breve
Brandy
SWEDEN
17
18
MADE IN – # 3
Kurbits from Dalarna
a handcrafts ladyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story
SWEDEN
19
Åse Strandström K
urbits (Cucurbita from Latin and German kürbis, pumpkin) is a decorative painting from Dalarna with a distinctive decor of fantasy plants with large
ebrating a great kurbits painting Rättvik painting is emerging in the been pretty clear racial strains of folk painting in other parts of the country, such as Painting, however, usually a grid pattern in senbarockstil on cabinet doors, or building
peasant family in Dalarna and in his childhood home of Twelve’s farm were many paintings talking primarily about the furniture paintKurbits Painting, from the recent collection of poetry Autumn Horn, is all about and cel-
Around 1800 also begins Dalmåleriet by itinerant painters to spread to neighborwallpaper painting to become a more common work area of ing provinces, and many take up a painting that in many respects to Dalmålerirationale, and a return to a stylized bouquet larna workers had its heyday between 1780 and 1870.
20
MADE IN – # 3
I can see a new trend coming. More and more young people ask me to teach them how they can implement certain traditional patterns into their work. SWEDEN
21
Designers choice Stockholm
Efva Attling S
years old. At the age of 16 she was a pupil of one of Sweden’s greatest silversmiths.Then Eileen Ford spotted her and a 12-year modelling career began. But she wanted to change her career and so she did. Since 1996 Efva’s been back to where she once started: working with silver, gold and precious stones. Efva’s specialty is playing around with words and expressions. This gives you one more dimension to the jewellery. ‘And as I used to write lyrics I still want to move people with words. I call my design “Beauty with a Thought”.
22
MADE IN – # 3
Accessory Award, given out by Damernas Värld. The jury’s motivation was: “A glorious combination of personal design and inspiring thoughts about life is this multi-talent’s signature. In a highly competitve business with many contenders, this winner proves her strengths year after year. The Efva Attling brand has a strong identity and is recognised by everyone. Her fairy-tale success story brings us craft with deeper meaning.With the strength of her soul, passion and burning commitment, Efva adorns our every day. Efva Attling Guldknappen 2010 Accessory Award.”
Sven Harrys - Adress etc
Svenskt Tenn - Adress etc
Acne - Adress etc
This Swedish interior design brand is well known for its eye catching patterns - a must if you enjoy both great design and fabric.
A fabulous Swedish brand for both men and women. Very contemperary design, but a bit och the pricy side,
The art museum with the same name design. Lovely for both eyes and mouth!
Clairon Hotel Sign - Adress etc Treat yourself to a proper design hotel and stay at Stockholms newest and largest hotel, where design is a focus. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford a night - come for an amazing brunch!
Sven Harrys Adress etc The art museum with the same name runs with art and design. Lovely for both eyes and mouth!
- Adress etc This is a brand new photography museum on the south bank. Great for inspiration and do not miss the resAND perfect view over Stockholm. Meet fabulous photographers like David la Chappelle and Anni Lebovitz.
SWEDEN
23
Liselotte Watkins
O
ne of Swedens most popular fashion illustrators is Gothenburg based Liselotte Watkins. A world famous artist, who now not only creates beautiful pictures for fashion magazines, but also actual fashion. Since 2011 she has her own clothing line. The line is said
love for fashion”. Liselotte Watkins is catches the most suttle personality woted, swedish fashionista who haven’t heard of her work. The illustrations are allmost always depicturing models dressed in the latest design from the top brands. She uses high contrast with the colours and contures the facial modern, and playful, without losing thecore character of
Designers choice - Göteborg
1. Best Western Hotel Adress etc
2. Kock o vin Adress etc
3. Exit Adress etc
4. Filippa K Adress etc
5. Designtorget Adress etc
A great place to reclaim you energy! This hotel is not only beutiful to the eye, but also holds one of Swedens best spas. And the view over the sea is not to shabby either.
One of Swedens best restuarants for sure. With a promise to only use the best locally produced food, this gorgeous eatery is a must when you’re in town.
This fashion event takes place in the smaller town outside Gothenburg, called Borås. One of Swedens best colleges for fashion design holds a fashion event each year in may to present the work of the students. Don´t miss out!
If you’re looking for timeless, simple and high quality swedish design for both men and women, this is the place to go!
It’s impossible to leave this shop
24
MADE IN – # 3
love. With a focus on swedish rything from books, interior design, jewellery, toys and more.
Carolina Gynning
C
arolina Gynning is a spectacular media sensation, the hottest and most exciting it-girl to appear in Sweden for many decades. This multitalented
a highly successful artist, with people signing up to be on a long waiting list to have the opportunity to buy her work. Whenever Carolina exhibits her paintings they immediately sell out. She’s also a bestselling writer, publishing her second autobiographical book, ”Ego Woman” in the fall 2012. Carolina is a fashion icon who creates headlines with every move she makes.The strength of her own personal brand is outstanding. She’s outspoken, fearless and a truly genuine person, which makes her a charismatic role model for today’s young women. So take a good look at her if you can. Next time you see her, she has transformed herself into a new kind of cultural phenomenon.
Designers choice - Malmö
1. Altewai Saome Adress etc
2. Atmosfär Adress etc
3. Form/Design Malmö Adress etc
4. TurningTorso Adress etc
5. Comfort Hotel Adress etc
One of Swedens newest, and brightest, stars in the fashion sky is this designer duo, based in Malmö. Their modern design, almost to the point of being futuristic, have quickly earned it’s spot in the fashion spreads of many magazines.
In the area around Malmö Opera
If you’re interested in design, this is the place for you! With
nice eatery, serving both lunch and dinner. Local produce for food, and wine testing is avaliable.
lustration, architecture, graphic design and more this is one of the best meeting point for people in the design genre.
A visit to Turning Torso is a must for any visiting architect in Malmö. This twisting tower is one of Swedens most famous new buildnings.
If you’re looking for more than just another comfortable bed for your visit to Malmö, the Comfort Hotel is the place to make a reservation. Great, modern rooms - music theme!
SWEDEN
25
Örn A k dler lip pan fels
...or how to translate poetry into other languages.
Bakom terrariets glas reptilerna underligt orörliga. En kvinna hänger tvätt i tystnaden. Döden är vindstilla. I markens djup. 26
MADE IN – # 3
glider min själ tyst som en komet.
R
obin Fulton has translated all of Tranströmer’s works from Swedish to English and has been immersed in them for the past forty years. He believes that Tranströmer is a worthy winner of the Nobel
How were you able to capture his language? – I am not sure if I have. Prize, considering his cumulative contribution to literature over several decades and the high esteem in which he is held around the world. Although being a huge fan of Tranströmer’s poetry, Fulton adinternational appeal. He believes it may be partly explained by their concrete imagery and memorable metaphors. At the same time that Tranströmer has fol-
The world is not reading what Tomas wrote. Robin Fulton on Sverige Radio.
translated into sixty languages, Fulton believes that the appeal is mainly restricted to poetry fans. He puts this down to the early works being lengthy and inaccessible, whilst the later ones, although much shorter, are often enigmatic. “A very great appeal to poetry readers, but maybe not much beyond that,” Fulton summarises. Tomas Tranströmer’s poems are very special and unique but the translator does not like the words ‘religious’ or ‘mystical’. He says that many of his works “touch on the idea that there’s more in life than meets the eye. His work is full of little hints and things that we don’t always think about, but perhaps are there.”
of translating Tranströmer from Swedish to English. He points out that English often uses more words than Swedish to convey something, and that this can make it problematic to keep the rhythm and concision of the poetry. Others issues include Swedish cultural elements that are of the tone of voice changing that inevitably comes with any translation.
Problems are for example about loosing the tone of voice as well as cultural things: Things that appear normal in Swedish but in English they aren’t. Robin Fulton on Sverige Radio.
SWEDEN
27
Fashion experts who visit Sweden are often fascinated, wondering to understand and explain. It seems very simple, but when you look closer it’s very contemporary and cool. Swedes have essentially a very practical approach to clothes, even if they are very fashion and trendconscious. When they dress up, they don’t dress up too much. There’s at parties. Even when the clothing is decorative, it has a practical funcembraced by people all over the world. In Stockholm many designers have their own stores, where you can see their entire collections, like Rodebjer, Whyred, Nakkna, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Carin Wester, Anna Holtblad, the jewelry designers David & Martin and many othto build a brand on the international market, based on a jeans collection. Cheap Monday is another phenomenon, with its Weekday stores. And you can’t forget larger, established brands like Filippa K, Tiger and J. Lindeberg, and of course H&M, which is everywhere. In general the Swedish fashion scene is good, exciting and creative, with lots of interesting concepts and shops. And you get a lot of fashion for your money!
28
MADE IN – # 3
Dagmar Sensuality, art and female strength are constant sources of inspiration to Dagmar.The brand was founded in 2005 by three sisters and named after their original mwwuse – their grandmother Dagmar, who was a seamstress. In 2011, Dagmar was awarded with the most prestigious fashion prize in Scandinavia, the Guldknappen. The garments from Dagmar stand out with their unique combination of high quality, contemporary feeling and sensual design. The feeling, the colours and the patterns are found primarily in the Art Deco period of the 20’s and 30’s. ettes. Dagmar’s Spring/Summer collection 2012 is greatly inspired by the relaxed Moroccan lifestyle as well as modern urban graphics – it is a wardrobe tailored for the modern vagabond. The items of the Spring/Summer collection of 2012 are relaxed and comfortable, yet glamorous. Knitted cloaks with low cut necklines, ankle length skirts soft and the loose silhouette makes a pleasant balance between sophis-
SWEDEN
29
J.Lindeberg the Main Collection; a Scandinavian heritage, functional technology
Inspired by quintessential signature garments which have evolved classic styles updated and transformed for a modern and active man and woman, who easily navigates between an urban city life and a recreational life along the coast or in the mountains.Outstanding ible and multipurpose solutions form the true characteristics of J.Lindeberg. A sleek, precise or sporty silhouette â&#x20AC;&#x201C; always with a sense
bined fashion and sportswear.The Companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main collection and its progressive golf and ski collections are sold in more than 35 countries world-wide.
30
MADE IN â&#x20AC;&#x201C; # 3
Josefin Strid scious consumer, aware of quality and long lasting clothing. With a base in classic men’s tailoring and an aim to invstigate masculinity in menswear, the designer develops collections for the contempoproducts. They are about the overall feeling, perception and expres– creating beautiful garments meant to be used season after season. Each season includes two lines – one Limited line, with pieces where the concept is taken to its peak. Ignoring all restrictions and sphere. Ready-to-Wear line is designed for everyday use and has an obvious resemblance to each season’s topic. The basis of the brand contemporary use, with sharp but poetic expression.
SWEDEN
31
32
MADE IN – # 3