2018CLL003 / 01 – 1940S OVERALL, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Depression era Red Camel

Overall acquired in Greensboro North Carolina.

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Washed

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Vintage inspired 5cm dungaree clip made in Japan.

Depression era fit

Period correct ecru stitching

One piece continuous fly construction

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration square woven label

Hand stamped pocketing highlighting denim mills and TENCEL™ back-story.

Clean finished Run and Felled seams construction on both leg seams

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names

Period correct mis-stitching on back pocket

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

1950s VINTAGE INSPIRATION WASHED

Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names

History of the Chore Coat / Jacket

The chore coat first appeared in late nineteenth century France. As a piece of outerwear made from durable cotton drill or moleskin, the chore coat was perfect for the tough physical work of labourers, railroad workers, and farmers, thanks to its loose fit that made it easy to throw over a set of overalls. In addition to being a hardy external layer, the roomy pockets were used to store everything a worker would need from tobacco tins to tools, and the button cuffs made for easy sleeve-rolling. Traditionally produced in a rich, vibrant French benzoate based blue dye, the chore was known in its home country as bleu de travail which translates directly to ‘blue work’.

It wouldn’t be until the bleu de travail reached the United States that it would be christened with its commonly known name. As it’s name would suggest, the chore coat was used for ‘chores’ like farming and laboring and worn by the working person, just like it was in France. The chore coats of America weren’t of the same rich blue as their French cousins, but the construction remained much the same.

By the early twenties, chore coats were being manufactured on a mass scale on both sides of the Atlantic by workwear companies that are still operating to this very day. In France, Le Mont Saint Michel, Vetra, and Le Laboureur were supplying workman with their bleu de travail chore coats, while over in the United States, legendary workwear label Carhartt had begun the production of their chore-style coat.

Initially known as the Engineer Sack Coat or simply The Coat, Carhartt’s chore jacket was first produced in blue denim in 1923 before the introduction of the now-iconic duck brown canvas. With the needs of railroad workers in mind, Carhartt tweaked the traditional chore by adding corduroy lining to the collar, triple stitched seams, and reinforcing the pockets with sturdy copper rivets. Additionally, the Detroit brand lined some of their chores with pile blanketing for colder conditions.

As classic workwear has grown in popularity over the last decade, the chore coat and its many interpretations have become a staple piece in many wardrobes. Versatile, reliable, and functional – a chore-style coat can compliment almost any aesthetic – from the smart-casual inner-city look to rugged, workwear inspired styles.

The Carhartt Chore Coat has stood the test of time, and many brands have produced their take on the traditional French blue chore coats. There is also a demand for vintage French chore coats that heavily worn and faded, with many vintage boutiques stocking collections of unlabelled, mid-century French chores in varying conditions.

REFERENCES: https://www.heddels.com/2018/09/history-of-the-chorecoat/

Image courtesy of Brut Archive