— JOUR NAL — I N N AT U R A L M O T I O N S I N C E 1 9 6 3
AU TU MN / WINTER 2018
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
AUTUMN / WINTER 2018 —
ECCO JOURNAL A J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H N AT U R E
08
THE SHAPE OF WATER — HOW THE DANISH COASTLINE BECAME A SOFT NAPPA LEATHER
20
THE FAROE ISLANDS — A PHOTO TRIBUTE TO UNDISCOVERED BEAUTY
38
LITTLE FEET IN THE WILD — DANISH CHILDREN BEING TAUGHT BY NATURE
42
CAST IN WOOD — CARVING A LIFE FROM SCULPTURE
46
BALANCING LIFE & STONE — MEDITATING WITH LAND ART
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
A D VA N C E D I N N O VA T I O N W H AT I S I T, E X A C T LY, T H AT M A K E S E C C O F O O T W E A R S O FA M O U S LY & S H A M E L E S S LY C O M F O R TA B L E ?
DIRECT COMFORT TECHNOLOGY
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INSPIRED BY NATURE ECCO is not the only brand making shoes using direct-injection techniques. But we have done it for a long time, spending decades pushing boundaries with it to deliver ever greater levels of comfort-in-motion in our footwear. Over the years our approach to direct-injection has evolved into the distinctive FLUIDFORM™ process we use today.
ONE WAY TO D ESCRIBE I T,
standard in conventional shoemaking
SERIOUSLY, IS MAG IC
techniques. Our 3D lasts follow the
FLUIDFORM™ Technology is rooted in
natural contours of the foot, wrapping it
state-change — when one thing, like
from all sides, even on the sole, with our
a caterpillar, transforms into another
FLUIDFORM™ process following these
thing, like a butterfly. With FLUIDFORM™,
curves in its liquid state, solidifying into a
lightweight fluid materials transform into
soft and flexible replica of the original.
our soft solid soles. Like with a caterpillar,
Our signature comfort comes from
FLUIDFORM™ can easily be explained by
maintaining the anatomical integrity
science. But when you watch it happen,
of the foot perfectly and permanently
it just looks like magic.
within the shoe. We have liberated ourselves from the design and wearing
F ORM F OLLOWS F OOT
compromises that come with high
The first thing that everyone at ECCO
pressure gluing and stitching assemblies.
shares is respect for the foot. From the talented team in our International
P R E M I U M L E AT H E R .
Design Studio in Denmark, to the mad
R E A L S H O E M A K I NG
geniuses in our R&D Units throughout the
While working its magic under your feet,
world, to the futurists who work in our
the FLUIDFORM™ 'state change' process
dedicated Innovation Lab and Applied
simultaneously generates a durable,
Research group, we are all zealots when
supple and integral bond between the
it comes to human anatomy. Everything
sole and its leather upper. Wrapped
always starts with the foot.
around the 3D anatomical last, the leather must be soft, supple and natural
COMF ORT AT L AST
to continue the fit and feel benefits, and
The "last" is a shoemaker's best friend —
ensure 360-degree comfort-in-motion.
a 3D shape that stands in for the human
Every innovation that occurs in the
foot and dictates how the final product
sole, must be replicated in the upper,
will look and feel. At ECCO, we make
providing regular inspiration for our
our own lasts, designing and engineering
tanneries to develop groundbreaking
them to deliver both high levels of com-
possibilities in leather. From heritage
fort as well as contemporary, versatile
finishes, to futuristic fashion applications,
style. And because of our FLUIDFORM™
our rich premium leathers are continually
'state-change' technology, we don’t
challenged to follow the foot, and the
need to use hard, flat sole parts that are
magic of FLUIDFORM™.
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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
CLAUS LØWIG NORDENTOFT, PHOTO
THE LIGHTEST TOUCH
After dark on Denmark’s west coast, you might experience a natural wonder that can be ethereal, subtle, and neon: the marine equivalent of the Northern Lights. Unlike the Northern Lights, this is deeply personal, as you’ll be the one making the sea glow. With just the gentlest of touches to provoke plankton, you can turn the waters a bioluminescent blue.
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“Above me is heaven with starry sky, underneath me the water is in a moody mood. A star is a sun — infinitely large, can be seen only against the black frame of the night. Morild: little invisible, who lives in the sea, glows in the dark like a flame …” S TA R A N D M O R I L D , B Y H E L G E R O D E ( 1 8 7 0 – 1 9 3 2 )
When the North Sea lights up around
Think of this phosphorescence, known
animals higher up the food chain that
you, and you find yourself night-swim-
in Danish as 'morild', which you're most
might pounce on those threatening
ming in waters glowing a neon blue, it
likely to see on a warm, still evening, as
the plankton, the creatures make their
can seem as though you've entered
a kind of marine stardust sprinkled over
own light. While that sounds like science
another world. Waters that had been
the North Sea, or as Jutland's natural
fiction, there is science fact behind
a dark, foreboding midnight blue are
neon. Or read the words of the Danish
it: light is emitted when a compound
now full of dotted light. That light can
writer Helge Rode, who was inspired to
called luciferin reacts with oxygen, while
seem bright and playful, with the dots
pen a poem in which he described the
an enzyme known as luciferase acts as
shimmering, glinting, winking, and
bioluminescent water as "glowing in the
the catalyst.
dancing; on other nights, the effect is
dark like a flame".
mysterious and subtle, or even eerie. It’s never anything less than beautiful.
At once, the North Sea turns a neon And yet, such beauty comes from fear,
blue, and you're immediately lured to
with the light a natural defence mecha-
the light. Something similar happens
Created by the phytoplankton on the
nism that some scientists have called
when a designer creates a shoe for
surface of the sea, this light show is just
the 'burglar alarm effect': touching or
ECCO: their innovation, motion, and
as exotic, alluring, and unmissable when
disturbing the water will spark the bio-
activity gives off a light that cuts through
viewed from the beach, just after you've
luminescence. To startle fish and other
the dark and draws you in.
dipped a hand or toe in the water.
potential predators, and also to attract
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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
E C C O
—8—
S H A P E
E C C O
F L U I D - T O U C H
L E A T H E R
THE SHAPE O F WAT E R N A T U R A L L Y
I N S P I R E D
E L E G A N C E
While the Danish coastline will forever be associated with Viking raids, and as the place where they pushed their boats into the icy water to set off across the seas, the shore is now the starting point for more peaceful, creative activities. Lapping waves have inspired art, music, poetry, and now the creation of a new premium material: ECCO FLUID-TOUCH Leather.
If Denmark has a national soundtrack,
While the sound initially draws you in, the
What's more, the ECCO FLUID-TOUCH
it's the soft, endless ebb and flow of
form and movement of the undulating
Leather's fine grain and elegance bring
waves on the beach. Sometimes the
waves, with their troughs and crests, their
a sophistication, style, and class to any
volume picks up, with the lapping
patterns and oscillations, and the ripples
ECCO SHAPE boot's feminine silhouette.
turning to a loud, crashing wall of noise:
across the surface, have mesmerised,
Nothing says luxury on a knee-high or
nature's own drum solo. But the waves
and more recently, inspired the creation
ankle-length boot like an ultra-thin, light-
tend to be at their most alluring when
of ECCO FLUID-TOUCH Leather. With
weight, aniline-finished calfskin with a
they are at their gentlest.
its soft slouch, its rich drape, and a
natural appearance. So soft and gentle,
luxurious, indulgently smooth surface,
this is leather as soothing and calming as
Almost completely surrounded by water,
you can detect the influence of the
paddling in the sea in the summer, with
with the North Sea to the west and
sea in this rich, premium leather.
the warm water gently breaking around
the Baltic Sea to the east, with more
your bare ankles.
than 7,000 kilometres of coastline, and
It was in 1985 that the ECCO founder,
hundreds of islands, Denmark is — both
Karl Toosbuy, bought his first tannery,
Wherever you choose to wear an
geographically and psychologically
and set about ensuring that the leather
ECCO SHAPE boot crafted from ECCO
— a maritime nation. Even in the centre
produced by his company met his high
FLUID-TOUCH Leather — you could even
of the mainland, you're never more
standards for softness and breathability.
be in a global city far from the Danish
than 50 kilometres from the waves. It's
In modern homage to this pursuit, ECCO
beaches — you will have a connection
no surprise, then, that those seas have
Leather has produced a wonderfully,
to the lapping waves.
shaped not just the shores they sculpt,
almost impossibly soft, material: the
but also Denmark's history, culture,
softest nappa in their collection. leather.ecco.com
mentality, and the ECCO design ethos.
—9—
ECCO SHAPE / 26089301291
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
ECCO FLASHGRAIN™ TECHNOLOGY LIGHT-REFLECTING MICROSPHERES
ECCO SOFT 8 / 44079301539
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E C C O
S H I N E B R I G H T
L E A T H E R
SHOES THAT D E F Y T H E DA R K After extensive research and development, ECCO Leather has found a way to transform animal hides into highly futuristic, reflective materials that protect with prowess.
Out of the inky darkness, and without
Leather become one of the world's most
consumers to customise their shoes. As
any warning, two small, piercingly bright
advanced research and development
the upper part of the shoe changes
circles appear: moonlight is bouncing
facilities for the material. Using micro-
under the light, you can also view the
and reflecting off an animal's eyes.
scopic glass beads suspended within the
ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather as a symbol
You're in awe of how in a moment, those
pebbled 'valleys' of the leather, ECCO
of the brand's hidden innovation, found
eyes are utterly transformed by the light
Leather found a way to reflect light
in every design.
shining directly at them.
directly back to its source, completely altering the look and functionality of
For all the smart technology within the
With a reflective surface beneath the
anything made from the material. In
material, a protective topcoat makes
retinas of those eyes, torchlights, street-
the case of the ECCO SOFT 8, it's first
the leather more water repellent, as well
lamps, and cars' headlights have the
application, it adds new style, edge an
as giving it additional gloss, and letting
same transformative effect: an instant
intrigue, almost as if the sneaker has a
the natural character of the ECCO
glow. Then the moon goes behind a
playful side that only comes out after
SHINEBRIGHT Leather 'shine through'.
drifting cloud or the car turns a corner
dark.
And that's true in all light, thanks to the pebble of the leather, which gives the
and, just as quickly as they had first
shoe a more premium look and feel.
appeared, those eyes vanish back into
During daylight hours, the shoe has
the gloom. Nature often inspires innova-
a subtle, low-key appearance, with
tion at ECCO Leather, and those bright,
little to no hint of its capabilities. But
But be warned: if you go for a stroll at
brilliant eyes have led to the creation
expose ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather to
night in an ECCO SOFT 8 crafted from
of FLASHGRAIN™ technology, which
moonlight, or to a vehicle's full-beam
ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather, all eyes —
powers ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather.
headlights, and you'll immediately see
animal and human — might be on you.
why it's emblematic of the company's An experimental, progressive culture
passion for play. This passion is further
of constant innovation has seen ECCO
exemplified by the opportunities for
— 13 —
leather.ecco.com
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
Using DriTan™ in our Dutch tannery for a year conserves enough WATER …
ONE TANNERY IN A YEAR
— 14 —
… to HYDRATE* 2.6 million people, or a population the size of Paris for one day.
ONE P OPUL ATION O N E DAY
* A C C O R D I N G T H E G U I D E L I N E S O F T H E U N I T E D N AT I O N S A N D W O R L D H E A L T H O R G A N I S AT I O N
Follow the ECCO innovations at: leather.ecco.com and group.ecco.com/en/responsibility
— 15 —
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D A N I S H
W I N T E R
B A T H I N G
A WINTER PLUNGE In the cold, dark months of winter in Denmark more than 25,000 people, spread across 93 clubs, find an icy release by plunging themselves even deeper into the crisp climate. Winter bathing is a trend that has seen a revival in recent years, with more and more young people seeking out the endorphin rush. We speak to Marie Louise "Malou" Wedel Bruun, the Editor of ELLE, Denmark, who is a regular winter bather, to find out why sub-zero is the new hero.
ECCO SOFT 7, 45015357511
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MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK ECCO SOFT 7, 45015357511
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MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK E C C O C R E P E T R AY H Y B R I D , 2 0 0 9 1 3 0 1 0 0 1 / E C C O S P 3 , 9 1 0 5 1 6 9 9 0 0 0 0
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"It's like a fifth element. It is pure coldness, pure energy. For me, it isn't really about swimming … it's more about this rush." MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK
While it has often been said that Danes
"She told me: 'I've got a membership to
"As modern persons, we don't really
have salt in their veins, embedded by
this winter bathing club. There's a sauna
have spaces to do these kinds of things
over 7,000 kilometres of coastline, Malou
and there's a dressing room, and you're
anymore. But we have found it, with
admits that her relationship with the
coming with me.' So, I said yes!"
the bathing, with this cold rush as the ignition," Malou concludes.
ocean hasn't always been so strong — despite having grown up in a place that
Set up along the coasts of Denmark,
is defined by its maritime industry.
and even in the centre of Copenhagen,
"I think that being in contact with nature
Danish bathing clubs range in size and
this way is also very important to me
"I am from Helsingør, so I was born and
facilities, with all offering saunas and
as a person because I had everything
raised with the sea, like everyone in
easy access to nearby almost-frozen
else — I had the right job, I had the
Denmark is," she says. "We have the
water, for those who are brave enough
right husband, I had the children, I had
ferries to Sweden, so the sea is part of
to jump in.
everything," she admits. "But I lacked this contact with my body because
our identity. I've always loved it, but my mother was afraid of it, and can't swim,
"The first time I went, it was the 29th of
everything I was doing had to do with
so we weren't much by the beach."
December, 2014, and there were icicles
my mind — planning and thinking and
on the steps, it was perfect," Malou
doing stuff for others, being a step
But from an early age, Malou enjoyed
says. "I got high in an instant and I was
ahead in everything."
ending her showers with ice cold water
just 'wow, this is amazing'. I got this rush
— a practice that continued after trips
of energy, and it was like my life had
"Suddenly, in the water, I just felt my
to the public pool, when she eventually
started all over again."
body. I was just being there at that exact moment, I was being present," Malou
started swimming at university. But it was not just the endorphin rush that
says. "It was fantastic. And it still is. It has
"We have these ice baths that you can
attracted Malou, it was also the chance
become a drug to me, to be present."
dip into and people can sit there about
to be lost in conversation with her friend,
20 seconds or something," she says, "but
to explore life and its fine details in a way
"It's like a fifth element. It is pure coldness,
I could be there for minutes — forever! It
that modern life rarely affords you.
pure energy. For me, it isn't really about swimming … it's more about this rush."
stimulated me, and I loved it!" she says. "We have these fantastic conversations," While her interest was clear, and she
she says. "My friend has become my
had already heard of winter bathing,
diary, in a way, and it is so great to have
Malou says that time and the logistics
someone to just open up to about stuff
of making it happen seemed to deem
you're not really sure of, but you need to
it a bit out of her reach — until her 40th
say, in a kind of confessional way."
birthday arrived, and a friend invited her elle.dk
to a local bathing club.
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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
E C C O
O U T D O O R
O N - S H O O T
FA R O E ISLANDS U N S P O I L E D
N A T U R E
"I love the feeling that in Mother Nature you’re small and insignificant. Pure nature doesn’t care who you are or where you come from. Appreciating nature’s ever-changing beauty adds an extra dimension to your life, it gives you perspective." C L A U S V I S B Y , P H O T O G R A P H E R AT E C C O
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E C C O G I L L I A N , 2 8 5 6 4 3 5 1 3 8 0 / E C C O S P 3 M I N I B A C K PA C K , 9 1 0 5 4 1 2 9 0 7 3 3
AUTUMN/WINTER '18 D A R K M E T A L L I C S
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I N S P I R E D
B Y
N A T U R E
THE OYSTER KING Migrating birds, seals, oysters, and more than 10,000 other species of animals and plants can be found in the Wadden Sea National Park in Denmark — but that’s not all. As the tide goes out onto the mudflats, you might also run into Jesper Voss, wearing his Viking-style leather apron, and carrying a bottle of Tabasco.
At low tide, there's endless mud.
or recruitment consultant, in landlocked
over the marshlands with what appears
Beautiful, glorious, panoramic mud.
Luxembourg. He realised he would
to be an avian form of ballet, but which
Mud that reaffirms your love for
be happier with a more peaceful,
is actually a choreographed act of
Mother Nature; mud that also contains
grounded existence where he could be
self-preservation against predators.
thousands of wild oysters known for
close to the sea and connect to raw,
These murmurations are known as the
having 'lots of bite'. Such mud can be
rugged nature. "When I moved back to
'Sort Sol' or 'Black Sun' phenomenon,
found within the Wadden Sea National
Denmark 10 or so years ago, somebody
for sometimes they can cause an
Park, a UNESCO world heritage site
told me that we had wild oysters lying
eclipse-like effect.
that runs along Denmark's west coast, is
in the Wadden Sea, and I thought,
Europe's longest stretch of wetlands, and
'Wow, that can't be true'. So then I went
For the self-professed 'Oyster King', his
is truly a place of wonder.
and looked, and they were just lying
migration involves dressing for a sea
there, thousands of them," says Voss.
safari, with boots and a Viking-style
"This is untouched nature," says Jesper
"Living next to the Wadden Sea, you're
leather apron, decorated with a metal
Voss, a Dane who has made his home
constantly inspired by nature."
plaque embossed with his moniker, and with holsters for Tabasco bottles, knives,
on the island of Fanø, where he takes clients on regular oyster safaris. He
According to Voss, the tidal conditions,
pepper grinders, and hooks to hang
probably spends more time than
along with the temperature of the water,
steel buckets. He then walks a kilometre
anyone else on the mudflats.
are perfect for oysters. Twice a day, the
off the coast and into the sea, guiding
mudflats flood, with high tides bringing
groups to spots where each of them can
Close to ECCO's headquarters in
food for the oysters and other creatures.
gather 150 oysters in an hour, many of
Jutland, and known to the locals as
Within hours, the waters retreat again,
which they will eat upon returning to the
'Nationalpark Vadehavet', the site is of
exposing the mud, as well as the oysters,
beach.
great ecological importance, as it is
mussels, crabs, snails and starfishes, and
home to more than 10,000 species of
while in the shallows, you might spot
It is a simple pleasure that brings daily joy
plants and animals. And talking with
cockles, worms, prawns, and flatfishes.
to Voss, who lives by the Wadden Sea. "It’s funny, even though Fanø is a holiday
Voss, you can't help but be struck by the way it is also somewhere that inspires
Standing there in your rubber boots,
island, in the summer you can still find
and rejuvenates Homo sapiens.
shucking an oyster, you can start to
places where you're on your own with
appreciate why more than 10 million
nature and that’s fantastic," he says, but
For years prior, Voss had been living a
birds a year make this their stopover on
there are other times when the islanders
fraught, stressful life as a 'headhunter',
the East Atlantic Flyover. They fill the skies
come together: "When there’s a storm,
— 24 —
"Living next to the Wadden Sea, you're constantly inspired by nature." J E S P E R V O S S , FA N Ø O Y S T E R K I N G
everyone on the island goes down to
really enhances the taste, Voss says
the beach to watch and to talk. I think
it's gathering the oysters yourself. He
we're all in awe of the power of nature."
has noticed how his safaris bring out the inner hunter-gatherer in his clients,
And while living off the sea is about as
giving them a connection to nature and
old school as it comes, Voss also likes
perhaps even an inner peace. "There's
to keep things fresh, and has written
something about going out into nature
an oyster cookbook that includes his
and collecting your own food. I teach
innovative new recipe for enjoying
my clients that first you taste the water
them raw: with strawberries, fresh lime
and then you taste the oyster itself —
juice, and a twist of pepper. But it is
you couldn't be closer to nature, and it's
not just the things you add to it that
just fantastic."
oystercookbook.com
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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
JESPER VOSS, FA N Ø O Y S T E R K I N G
— 26 —
O Y S T E R S
Á
L A
F R A N Ç A I S E
Ingredients for 4 persons 12 oysters 75g garlic or wild garlic butter 75g grated parmesan 50g prosciutto (Fanø or parma ham) Coarse salt — Shuck the oysters and leave them in the deep halves of their shells. Top the oysters with two slivers of either garlic or wild garlic butter. Add a teaspoon of grated parmesan and roast in the oven, or cook on the barbecue grill for five minutes. Put a piece of serrano ham on top of each and let them bake another two minutes until the ham is slightely crisp. Serve immediately.
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AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
T H E R E VO L U T I O N A RY N E W SHOCK - TH R U C U S HI O N C O RE
ECCO ST. 83614301001
UP TO 15% MORE CUSHIONING* THAN OUR ALREADY POPULAR FLUIDFORM™ SD.PU CLASSICS
*Measured against a range of FLUIDFORM™ styles in our Compliance Lab in Denmark and confi rmed by independent testing services
ECCO ST.1 HACK, "ECICOTE"
H E L L E G R A A B Æ K , H E A D O F T E X T I L E S AT D S K D ECCO SOFT 8, 44053301001
DESIGN HACKS For the last 7 years, ECCO has partnered with the home of footwear design in Denmark, Kolding Design School (DSKD), to help inspire and embolden the next generation of shoe designers. This season, the collaboration took a different approach, with students tasked with reimagining a key ECCO silhouette in a three-tiered approach that spanned the spectrum between high-end street-fashion and an expression of abstract art.
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
Working as the Head of Textiles at DSKD,
them do, in the 'Material Futures' work-
Cornelia says they were then asked
Helle Graabæk says she feels privileged
shop — they can see gaps, connect
to use a pyramid structure — used by
to help design a course that allows
futures, and see things we have never
ECCO in its collection planning — to
students the chance to work with a
seen before. It is amazing."
build up the three-product offering.
major international company that cares. Working much like the international
"At the top, we had the 'Halo' product,
"What I'm really passionate about today
company itself, students are divided into
where we had to go crazy," she says.
is developing future talent, and I think
cross-disciplinary groups, and given six
"Use whatever material you want
I'm just so lucky to be in this discussion
weeks to create a three-shoe collection.
to, because it doesn't have to be functional. It doesn't even have to look
with the students all the time, to see how they grow. It's a big inspiration," she says.
"I am from the Accessory stream, and I
like a shoe, it just has to hold your foot,
was in a group with a Norwegian from
and take one step."
"I'm constantly in this dialogue with
Fashion Design, Sara from Textile Design,
the students, supervising their projects,
and an exchange student from France,"
"Then we had the 'Hybrid' shoe, where
setting up the courses, trying to see: How
says student, and now ECCO intern,
we had to take it down one step,
can we do this better? So that they get
Cornelia Therkelsen.
toward thinking of a shoe, mixing it with an original ECCO sole," Cornelia says.
a good learning outcome." "The theme we were given was Danish
"We chose the ST.1 because we saw the
She says that when the collaboration
culture," she says, "But the funny thing
coastline in the sole, and that it was a
was set up, the challenge was to
was that we all came from very different
really a good match for our theme."
maintain a strong sense of Danish design
backgrounds, and we all saw it in very
at ECCO, hoping to inspire students to
different ways."
Then finally, Cornelia says they were asked to produce a 'Hack' shoe,
follow in the footsteps of iconic designer, and DSKD alum, Ejnar Truelsen.
"But the one common thing was the
which also took an existing ECCO sole,
But over time, as the relationship has
Danish coastline — because Denmark
challenging students to think about
evolved and developed, the collabo-
is surrounded by so many, it plays a big
the function of the shoe, making sure it
ration has become more about seeing
role — we saw it as important." Cornelia
could comfortably take 1000 steps.
what is possible for both parties, about
says. "There were a lot of opportunities
inspiring each to come up with shared
in material, so we went there, took
"It was really an interesting journey,"
solutions for the future.
pictures, collected things — like stone,
Cornelia says, "Finding the right
sand, seaweed, oysters, blue mussels
combination, and design was really
— and just felt the atmosphere there."
interesting. We did the 'Hack' shoe in the
"Each year, after this course, there is a
R&D pilot facility in Bredebro. Everything
huge number of students who get really interested in pursuing a shoe career,
"What we found interesting was the
went so fast! We were in the middle of all
after seeing and hearing what's possible
gradient in colour, from light to dark," she
this energy and innovation, surrounded
at ECCO," Helle says. "When the students
says. "We also focused on the wet-dry
by shoes, surrounded by machines,
discover the politics of the company,
look, between dry sand and wet water;
surrounded by leather, and then
how well you treat people, they can't
this mix of contrasts. And also, the lines:
suddenly our pattern had turned into a
believe it."
when the water is calm and then the
finished shoe."
waves start to come in, and there's "But that's what experimenting is about,"
stormy weather." designskolenkolding.dk
she says. "This is actually what we make
— 30 —
Raw materials Consumer
Retail
Design app
Production
— 31 —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
ECCO SHAPE DISCREET COMFORT TECHNOLOGY
ECCO SHAPE, 26386301001
GORE-TEX® INFINIUM™ THERMIUM™ TECHNOLOGY
COMFORT W I T H O U T
C O M P R O M I S E
In a world-first release, leading protection membrane specialists GORE-TEX® have partnered with ECCO to revolutionise women's formal shoes with a technology designed to keep feet warm and comfortable, even when the temperatures drop. Using high-tech modelling and research, GORE-TEX® established the most crucial area to add insulation in shoes: the toe. By insulating this area, comparison tests showed that toes were kept up to 3°C warmer, perceivable for an hour longer than non-insulated shoes.
SHANGHAI L AUNCH O F
T H E
K I T T E N - H E E L
On January 16th, the all-new ECCO SHAPE Kitten Heel booties were premiered at an exclusive Shanghai launch of the latest Fall/Winter collection for women. Styled to celebrate bold, contemporary twists on dress-up/dress-down attitudes, the event featured progressive interpretations of day and evening looks and was the perfect showcase for the dramatic fashion versatility of the Kitten Heel bootie — with its discreet GORE-TEX® INFINIUM™ THERMIUM™ comfort technology elevating the luxury grade close-grained, ECCO SILK-TOUCH leather to year-round wearing.
ECCO SHAPE, 26386301333
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
ALEXANDER FIELDEN, SHOE DESIGNER
— 34 —
B E S P O K E
S H O E M A K E R
A L E X A N D E R
F I E L D E N
I N N O VA T I N G WITH CRAFTSMANSHIP What do you get when you mix a medieval-inspired bespoke shoemaker with an international footwear company, unashamedly driven by technology? An unexpected amount of common ground. We speak to shoe couturier Alexander Fielden about his work and a somewhat unlikely collaboration with ECCO.
"I started off not knowing what I was
impossible to make. Within a year I
"I didn't realise it at the time, but they
doing at the art academy," Alexander
made a group of shoes, applied for a
had been setting up an artisanal 'stealth
says. "I knew I was on the right track to
fund, and could set up a studio."
artisan' project as a rough sketch, and they invited me to come and play."
somehow becoming a creative person, but at that time, I didn't understand a
"I got grounded physically when I found
whole lot about the world, but doing
shoes. It's the metaphor I still use every
Describing his own style as something
creative things, that gave it sense."
day — that the shoe is the first contact
"in between — a medieval untraveled
on Mother Earth, that it's where we
Future" Alexander says he finds inspira-
"When I first started designing, there
stand. Shoes have the ability to express
tion in many things, in everyday objects
was a lot of handwork," he says. "At that
how men walks through life. It's always
like curbs and pavement.
time, there were no computers for 3D
been a red thread through my life." "It's a bit crazy," he says, "But I can be
design, you made everything by hand, and I think it really shaped me."
From 2005, Alexander made one-off,
very excited about a piece of metal
bespoke shoes, mostly for female clients,
that's been bumping around for two
But while he spent his daytime studying
from about €1500 a pair, until another
years on the street. You cannot recog-
at the Utrecht School of Arts, it was
job at a clothing store saw him fall in
nise it anymore, but somehow it has a
actually his job in a shoe store that
love again — this time with men's shoes.
reference to what it was, its 'deformation' brings the freedom of looking at
helped define his career the most. "With women's shoes you can go crazy,"
something from a new perspective."
"I was working in a shoe store, and then I
he says. "You can do a lot of things, but
started to draw the shoes that we had in
with men's shoes, it's different. For me,
"The essence I've found within my work
the store," he says, "And I thought, 'Hey,
I always found it very daunting to play
has an alter ego — the Wanderer,"
there's something with this, I like this!' So, I
with the fact that the boundaries are
Alexander says. "He is a time traveler —
did some research and I fell in love."
much stronger."
he can move deeply into the past, and
That love saw him spend the next three
In 2010 he launched his first men's
It's all about having an open mind to
years making shoes from scratch in a
shoes and leather goods range: 'The
anything that he finds interesting."
course that included everything from
Wanderers Collection' and grew a name
measuring techniques of the foot, to
in the 'darkwear fashion' world, bringing
And while his ideas might seem to
final construction. Eventually there came
his designs to stores like Darklands Berlin,
belong in a somewhat parallel world, his
a time when he couldn't do both, so he
ISETAN and Lift Ecru in Tokyo, Hotoveli in
design sensibility is very pragmatic.
parted ways with the art academy and
New York, and Antonioli in Milan.
the untraveled future or parallel worlds.
"I don't like to fake things. If it's there,
went out on his own instead. It was on this journey that Alexander
it needs to have a function," he says.
"I got help from a teacher — one of the
developed a relationship with ECCO
"I've never thought it before, but I really
best bespoke shoemakers in the world,
Leather, using their leathers to make his
like all these technical boundaries that
Rene van den Berg," he says. "He was
modern, medieval-inspired silhouettes,
you have to push against. That was
a teacher at the shoe course, and he
and also attending their annual 3-day
the exciting thing about working with
gave me the confidence to execute
"Hot Shop" leather innovation workshop.
ECCO — being part of a new process for them."
all the ideas that I had thought were
— 35 —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
B E S P O K E
S H O E M A K E R
A L E X A N D E R
F I E L D E N
"I got grounded physically when I found shoes. It's the metaphor I still use every day — that the shoe is the first contact on Mother Earth, that it's where we stand. Shoes have the ability to express how men walks through life. It's always been a red thread through my life.” ALEXANDER FIELDEN, SHOE DESIGNER
— 36 —
alexanderfielden.com, @alexander_fielden — 37 —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
DANISH NATURE & FOREST SCHOOLS F E A T. M A R K O S Z A N G A S - T S A K I R I S
ECCO URBAN SNOWBOARDER, 72227201303
— 38 —
D A N I S H
F O R E S T
K I N D E R G A R T E N S
LITTLE FEET IN THE WILD Denmark's long tradition of forest kindergartens dates back to the 1950s, and today as many as ten percent of all Danish pre-school children spend their days in nature. As people around the world become more environmentally aware, as well as more concerned about preventing child obesity, there's a growing international interest in these kindergartens.
All across Denmark, you'll find thousands
"Nature dictates the flow of the day,"
who noted that even snow or rain won't
of pre-school children running free
said Jane Williams-Siegfredsen, an
discourage the children. "There's a
through forests, scaling trees, rolling in
expert in outdoor education, who has
saying in Denmark that there's no such
the mud, even handling knives. These
written a book on it, and runs a consul-
thing as bad weather, just bad c lothing.
kids haven't gone rogue, and this not
tancy service called Inside Out Nature.
The children put on their thermalwear
a rare event. This is a daily occurrence
"Perhaps the children will set off into the
and boots, and walk out the door."
in a country where so many young
forest looking for leaves or mushrooms,
children start their education in forest
or maybe it's the time of year when
You might imagine that children would
kindergartens with no fences, and with
certain insects are out," she says.
be at greater risk of hurting themselves
seemingly no limits on the kids' freedom.
and others. "People think there will be "They have a focus, but it's very flexible
more accidents, but in fact there are
While these kindergartens exist all over
because when you go into the forest,
fewer than you have indoors because
the world, they are particularly popular
you can't control the environment. You
there's so much more space. That space
and well-established in Denmark, with
might go out and find animal tracks,
also helps to reduce conflict between
around 500 of them helping children to
which the children are interested in,
the children," said Williams-Siegfredsen.
enjoy the great outdoors. For parents
and teachers have to respond to that."
"Children also respect the environment
who have just moved to Denmark, this
more when they're outside, they're far
can be a culture shock, but children of
At a time when parents are often
all backgrounds quickly take to the idea
alarmed that their children are spending
more aware of it around them."
of playing outside all day.
so much time looking at screens, in the
For Williams-Siegfredsen, trust is para-
digital world, it is reassuring to see their
mount: "The children, the teachers and
Liberated from the c onfines of
sons and daughters now care more for
the parents all need to trust each other."
a classroom and a tarmacked
the natural world.
playground, children might spend a morning climbing to the top of a tree,
"A lot of research has been done which
or searching for worms or toadstools.
shows that a child's brain, language,
The afternoon's activities might include
and physical development are better
sharpening wood with a large knife,
when they spend most of their time
balancing on a log, or throwing
outside. They're also healthier, with fewer
themselves down a muddy slope.
sick days," said Williams-Siegfredsen,
— 39 —
insideoutnature.com hoendruphus.dk
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
P L AY I N G W I T H T H E PA S T For most people, turning 40 is somewhat of a cornerstone moment in their life — a time to reflect on the journey they have taken, and perhaps even a time to speculate what the next 40 years might hold. But at ECCO Kids, who celebrate their 40th birthday this year, it also means a chance to have some fun and be creative.
Born in 1978, ECCO Kids have been
their 40th birthday, Liselotte says they
colourful, and a little unlike what we're
lovingly crafting shoes for little feet in
immediately went back to the archives
doing today. So, it was very deliberate
a way that only ECCO knows how. As
to look at iconic shoes and drawings,
that we chose this look because we
self-professed 'Guardians of Little Feet'
enlisting the help of one of their original
wanted to do something out of the
for the last 40 years, they have been
designers, and now Chief Designer at
ordinary for us. We wanted to push
focussed on the freedom, comfort and
ECCO, Ejnar Truelsen.
things, compared to the typical
development of every Kids' shoe.
Scandinavian design look." "I think we were working on three
"We use only lightweight, soft and flexible
different directions in the beginning,"
"The celebratory collection of ankle
materials to give maximum mobility and
says Ejnar, "to explore different design
boot sneakers, with their large "40" print,
comfort to the foot," says Senior Designer
routes."
fuse together the story of our heritage
Liselotte Laursen. "We focus on softness
and our future together, in a range
and cushioning, using breathable mate-
But as they looked back at the many
of options to fit infants, children and
rials to allow air to circulate, and support
shoes they had both created, one pair
juniors," Ejnar says.
little feet with functional details like
of colourful shoes stood out — the first
foot-shaped anatomical lasts, soft ankle
ECCO Junior shoes made in 1989:
Crafted from a range of premium ECCO
padding, and protective heel caps."
ECCO CENTRAL LINE.
Leathers, he says the boots mix the
When it came to creating a limited-
"One of the things we actually liked,"
of laces and closures for easy in-step
edition Anniversary shoe to celebrate
Liselotte says, "Was they were so
and adjustable comfort.
playful with the practical, with a choice
— 40 —
Years
— 41 —
Expe r t s
Es t . 1978
et
L i t t l e Fe —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
CAST IN WOOD Since 1993, the unassuming town of Højer, near ECCO’s Headquarters in Southern Denmark, has been home to an international symposium for wood sculpture with more than 60 different nationalities of artists presenting their work. But with a changing of the guard, and a new Chairman and local artist Steffie Pedersen at its helm, the annual event is set to become a full-scale art festival that embraces all elements of nature: Wind, Sea, Earth and Sky.
STEFFIE PEDERSEN, ARTIST & SCULPTOR
— 42 —
H Ø J E R
A R T
J A M
Having grown up with the Højer International Wood Sculpture Symposium, Steffie Pedersen was essentially born with a chainsaw in her hands. "Since I could walk, I have been present at the symposium and have observed all the different artworks," she says. "Sometimes I was given a tool and a piece of wood, so that I could try to make a small sculpture myself, and
STEFFIE PEDERSEN & GLEB TKACHENKO
after some time, I began to realise, that
ECCO SHAPE, 26740301001
I could also make art to change the minds of people, and bring happiness to
of its own. Participating sculptors
the creation process up close and
their lives."
get to know each other from event
personal — from raw material to fine
to event," she says. "There's a strong
art," Steffie says. "We hope the event will
Having started her artistic career in
sense of community where artists get
play a central role in deepening Højer's
theatre, Steffie says she also painted, but
to know new techniques and develop
reputation as a significant art destination
loved the three-dimensional challenge
themselves as artists. In fact, it's how I
within Denmark, Scandinavia and
of sculpting the most, and has done
met my husband!"
beyond."
most of her work in this area since. Steffie's husband, Gleb Tkachenko
steffiep.com
"Sculpting wood requires a certain
epitomises the diversity of the sculpting
glebos.com
amount of concentration. You need to
world, working and exhibiting all
think about your approach beforehand
over the world, from South Korea to
because you can't change it if you
Argentina, Turkey to New Zealand.
make a wrong cut," she says. "If you make a mistake with a chainsaw it's
When he's not traveling, Gleb
pretty hard to put the pieces back
supports Steffie in her entrepreneurial
where they came from."
undertakings, including running and curating the Outskirts Art Gallery and
For her, the organic process is also
the fine art-meets functional craft
important.
furniture start-up, Højerwood.
"I like wood because it's a natural
Steffie has a clear vision for the future,
material, so it's changing all the time,"
not only for her own projects, but also
Steffie says. "When you think you have
for the creative culture in and around
finished a sculpture, after one year it
the Tondermarsk region. She and her
looks different. The wood is also telling
team of volunteers have reinvented
you about itself; it has a life of its own.
the original Højer International Wood
It tells you what it wants to be."
Sculpture Symposium for the 21st century as the Højer Art Jam.
And perhaps in some ways, her life has been much the same, with wood
"Recently I've been reflecting on how
sculpting and the symposium circuit
the event can evolve into a vital
influencing much of her life and career.
international, multidisciplinary art event
"The symposium scene can be a world
that enables its audiences to follow
— 43 —
artjam.dk
E C C O
T H E
R I S E
O U T S I D E R
O F
C O L L E C T I O N
E C C O
A W A R D
E X O S T R I K E
W I N N I N G
ECCO EXOSTRIKE 83231402539
E C C O
O U T S I D E R
E C C O
C O L L E C T I O N
O M N I - V E N T
Leveraging on the power of versatile hybridised styling, the ECCO OMNI-VENT sets new standards in ECCO design signatures, following in the footsteps of ECCO EXOSTRIKE with an ultra-modern reinterpretation of COOL and GORE-TEX速 SURROUND速 Technology. Featuring midsole softness and bounce, and a mix of premium uppers, including i足nside-out DYNEEMA速 BONDED Leather by ECCO, its appeal is fresh and young, bridging the gap between casual, athleisure styles and more traditional new Outdoor shoes with modern versatility. ECCO OMNI-VENT 88010454302
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
"… it is just this whole dance with nature … going out there into a beautiful place and feeling inspired to build something." MICHAEL GRAB, LAND ARTIST SPECIALIZING IN BALANCED SCULPTURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY E C C O C O O L WA L K , 8 3 3 2 0 4 0 1 0 0 1
— 46 —
E C C O
O U T S I D E R
—
M I C H A E L
G R A B
ZEN & THE ART OF STONE BALANCING One part mediation, one part balance, and one part art; Michael Grab is a master in creating improbable stone structures. His contemplative vertical stone arrangements are the product of a gutsy move which shifted his focus and time to pure creation; on building the ability to find the ‘zero point’ within oneself, and within nature.
It was the summer of 2008 when a
2012, and I had this creative vision one
"Stone balancing is like a zen practise
chance encounter launched Michael's
day. It was during my work time, but I
because you have to learn to detach
passion for stone balancing, taking his
was like, 'okay, I need to go out and do
from things," he says. "You have to
life down a very different path than the
this. Nothing else matters.'"
learn to accept impermanence and imperfection. It's just about learning
one he had first imagined. Needless to say, he quit his job and
how to flow with the world, I guess."
"I was living in Boulder, Colorado, a year
hasn't looked back since. Fortunately,
after graduating university, just working a
it turned out to be a great decision —
For him, Gravity Glue — the name he
regular, non-creative, kind of frustrating
taking a leap of faith and sticking to his
gives to his art practise and website — is
job," he says. "But, on the summer days I
passion removed everything else in his
about doing your own thing, not caring
had off, or after work, I'd go down to the
life, opening a void he could fill with
what people think, just listening to the
creek in town, and hang out."
pure creation.
natural state of things.
"There are rocks everywhere down
"A couple of months later, I was going
"In a sense, jumping off the deep end
there, but I had never ever thought of
with the flow, and made something
and quitting my job, and doing all this
balancing them before. I was hanging
that turned out really amazing. A
stuff that is total cultural taboo, is a very
out with a friend, we were looking for
friend messaged me, and said, 'You
clear example of being an outsider
some obsidian and just kind of moving
should send it to this blog,' which was
and taking a chance by following your
rocks around."
thisiscollosal.com," he says.
passion," he says.
Some hours later, he noticed the patterns
"So, I sent it to the guy and he emailed
"One part of it is just listening and
of rocks he had made around himself
me back in10 minutes and was like,
responding to nature — there's this
and became more interested in moving
'Alright, send me all your photos. I need
whole unpredictable chaos moment,
them around instead. "Something just
to publish this immediately'."
whether it's wind or something else." Michael says. "That's a very beautiful
kind of flipped a switch in my brain, and I fell in love with it," Michael says.
The post went viral, exposed to over
part of the entire practise, it is this whole
100 different countries, his followers
dance with nature. That's also where all
Firstly, it was just in his spare time, cap-
list exploded, and he started doing
the inspiration comes from — going out
tured on photography and film, but it
private events, with notable attendees
there, into a beautiful place, and feeling
wasn't long before the habit eventually
like environmentalist and former Vice
inspired to build something."
became a full-time occupation.
President of the USA, Al Gore.
"I was absolutely obsessed!" Michael
So how does he manage to keep a
continues, "I still am, just in a much more
straight head and not let the fame
thorough way. I started doing events in
take over?
gravityglue.com
— 47 —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
— 48 —
E C C O
C O O L
W A L K
CLIMATE - CONTROLLE D COMFORT Styled for the urban explorer, but featuring all the day-long walking essentials, ECCO COOL WALK is a practical city climber. Made from the highest quality yak leather and GORE-TEX® SURROUND®, you will stay dry and comfortable no matter where you are. ECCO FLUIDFORM™ Technology and foot-fitted last provide shock-absorbent material, injected directly into the shoe mould, that cradles your foot and cushions your step. Discover a premium walking experience, with every step.
E C C O C O O L WA L K , 8 3 3 2 0 4 0 1 0 0 1
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
TRIPLE THE TRACTION For many years, ECCO has been a pioneer in the golfing world, pushing ahead with ground-breaking shoe technology — particularly with hybrid styles. Recently, they unveiled the ECCO BIOM® HYBRID 3, with a revolutionary outsole with all-new TRI-FI-GRIP™. We unpack the details with Lead Designer Andrzej Bartie Bikowski and Head of Golf Michael Waack.
"We were the first brand with spikeless
"The E-DTS™, was our first hybrid traction
"We found this linear design that
shoes that you are actually able to play
system, and we are still doing it because
prevents you from sliding side to side,
professional golf in," says Michael. "All
it works well," Bartie says. "But for us, we
while also making them easier to clean,"
of the other brands were more or less
wanted to challenge ourselves, because
Bartie says. "As you zoom in on the
trainers, walkers for teaching profes-
it is quite generic — all of the traction
smallest scale, the cleats are engineered
sionals, standing on the driving range
cleats are the same."
golfer's-looking shoe on."
differently in the front and in the back — that is to prevent slippage."
eight or nine hours, and still having a "That's where the whole idea with TRI-FI-GRIP™ started," he says," with
He says they also built a 'stability zone'
"The E-DTS™ was the start of a revolution
us questioning: how can we improve
on the front lateral side, where the cleats
for us and everyone else," he says.
the grip even more, and bring some
are bigger and wider, preventing you
"Fred Couples wore the shoes the first
innovation, so that it can be even
from going too deep in the grass.
time in Hawaii, and he won. Then of
more performance-oriented." "Another thing we looked at, is what we
course he wore them in the Champions Tour, and that was more or less the first
Bartie says they went back to study the
call the 'Swing Down phase'," Bartie says.
time some people recognised them,
movement of the foot, both in walking,
"It's when you are finishing off your swing,
because it was, more or less, the first time
and while swinging. "We found out that
you still want to stay stable, and hold
ever a professional golfer played with a
there are different functional needs that
the position. "We call this a rotational line
hybrid shoe."
we could address with different outsole
— helping you stay balanced during the
zones," he says.
last phase of your swing.”
in the shoes, and he finished sixth. And
"We noticed that the forefoot and
Finally, to allow for greater flexibility
he was 52 or 53 years old," Michael says.
heel part needed to be more durable
overall, Bartie says they also removed
"He was against all with these all young
when you walk, because of the higher
sections of the T.PU outsole, in the centre,
guns, 20 and 25 year olds, all these
abrasion. So, we placed wider cleats
allowing for better ground adaptation
athletes, you know? He played fantasti-
there, much wider and thicker, so you
when in motion.
cally, and he said on TV: 'The reason why
have more substance and thickness to it,
is these absolutely cool shoes.'"
to last longer," Bartie says.
Needless to say, since then, the shoes
Then he says they looked at the move-
system. With this technology we are
have sold out three years running, and
ment of the foot, and in which direction
pushing the boundaries of hybrid
the success of their paradigm shift left
they needed the grip to go to allow for
golf shoes — a category we want to
ECCO Golf hungry to do more.
traction, while also being able to clean
continue to be the leaders in."
"But it wasn't until April when he played
"The TRI-FI-GRIP™ is our most advanced and functional performance traction
the shoe better.
— 50 —
"We found out that there are different functional needs that we could address with different outsole zones." ANDRZEJ BAR TIE BIKOWSKI, E C C O G O L F, L E A D D E S I G N E R ECCO BIOM HYBRID 3, 15580453357
— 51 —
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
1978
1980
1983
1984
1985
THE JOKE
THE FREE
THE SOFT BOOT
THE NEW PORT
THE MOBILE
1987
1988
1992
1994
1995
THE TWIST
THE CENTRAL LINE
THE TRACK
THE COSMO
T H E R AVA G E
1997
1999
2002
2003
2005
THE GOLF
THE SUBZONE
T H E WA L K AT H O N
THE SHARK
THE SUPER CROSS
2006
2007
2007/2008
2008
2009
THE JUMP
T H E 2 N D - N AT U R E
THE SPIRIT/LIFE
THE SUMMER-ZONE
THE BIOM A
2010
2011
2012
2018
2018
THE SCULPTURED
THE BALANCE
THE BIOM PURE
T H E C R E P E T R AY
THE ST.1
AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018
E C C O
C R E P E T R A Y ™
H Y B R I D
&
E C C O
C O R K S P H E R E ™
1
M O D E R N C L A S S I C S From rugged Chelsea boots to street-smart sneakers, ECCO pulls silhouettes from a global archive of shoemaking, adding our signature premium leathers, and cutting-edge developments in comfort engineering, to elevate and refine them according to our own unique design standards. Some call them upgrades, others call them evolutions. But we just call it natural motion. — ECCO IN NATURAL MOTION SINCE 1963
E C C O C R E P E T R AY H Y B R I D , 2 0 0 8 4 3 0 1 0 0 1 ECCO CORKSPHERE 1, 27121401001
M0000008200
E C C O
S O F T
7
T R E D
RUGGED
SOFTNESS
ECCO SOFT 7 TRED / 45020401001