FLORIDA SHINES ON SWISS RAIL TRIPS KENTUCKY SURPRISES
DOWN-HOME HOSPITALITY IN ST. JACOBS UNBELIEVABLE SHANXI
$3.95
dreamscapes.ca
DS TABLE OF CONTENTS >>
VOLUME 21, ISSUE NO. 1 VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD
JOHANNA READ
38 ALL ABOARD! Hop on board a classic train journey past quaint Swiss towns and majestic mountains. BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
40 SUSPENDING DISBELIEF IN SHANXI Explore the spectacular wonders and ancient temples of this small Chinese province. BY JOHANNA READ
9
42 TRAVEL SLEUTH
CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER
Step outside your comfort zone to learn more and share it all with family and friends.
What is Margaret Atwood’s travel passion? BY JOHN & SANDRA NOWLAN
BY JANE STOKES
10 OLD KENTUCKY EXUDES NEW ENERGY
44 TRAVEL GALLERY Travel news you can use.
A visit to the bluegrass state unveils a string of unexpected surprises.
BY CYNTHIA DAVID
BY E. LISA MOSES
47 STARBOUND A trip to Mike Weir’s Ontario winery uncorks some tasty pairings.
14 A DESIGN AND FASHION MECCA West Hollywood remains the epicentre of cool, especially when it comes to trendsetting styles.
BY DIANE SLAWYCH
BY JACQUELINE YAU
16 HOMESPUN HARMONY
ONTARIO TOURISM MARKETING PARTNERSHIP CORPORATION
COVER: Glacier Express crossing the Landwasser viaduct near Filisur, Canton Graubuenden. Switzerland Tourism/Christof Sonderegger
The delightful village of St. Jacobs, Ontario, serves up down-home hospitality and more. BY ALAN G. LUKE & JACQUIE D. DURAND
19 FLORIDA: A SPECIAL FEATURE SECTION Escape winter’s chill as you take in all the Sunshine State has to offer. BY STEVE WINSTON & JENNY FAUSER
36 COSTA MESA Known as the “City of the Arts,” this California city is also a major shopping and dining destination. BY CHRISTINE DELSOL
37 DISCOVER AMERICA 2016 is a great year to explore the beauty of America’s national parks. BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
4 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
JOSEPHINE MATYAS
DS FROM MY TRAVEL BAG >> BY DONNA S. VIEIRA HAPPY 2016. Hopefully, 2015 brought you an abundance of wealth, health and success and you’re now ready to tie up loose ends. According to numerologists, 2016 is a year for reflection as you assess, appreciate and celebrate all you’ve planned, achieved and amassed over the last eight years before 2017—a year of new beginnings—ushers in the start of another nine-year cycle. It’s also a great time to let go of what doesn’t work for you and make room for innovative and possibly life-changing ideas. When I think about the past eight years, I realize I’ve written 48 of these columns and covered numerous topics. Meanwhile, on average, our magazine publishes 15 editorials on a vast array of destinations and travel-related subjects in every issue. That adds up to approximately 960 published editorials over eight years. From time to time, we do hear from our readers about what has appeared in print. This year, I’d like to take a more proactive approach to scheduling editorial content. I’d love to hear which destinations and travel topics interest you. Simply send me an email message with “2016 Editorial Interests” in the subject line. As we look ahead, what trends can travellers expect to see or experience in 2016 and beyond? I personally don’t have a crystal ball, however it appears some travel professionals do. Here is what they have to say. Based on research gleaned from 14 million consumer requests, CruiseCompete.com recently shared some insight on cruising trends. What’s in high demand? River and small-ship cruising in the U.S. on board such cruise lines as American Queen Steamboat ships and American Cruise Lines are more popular than ever. What’s the hottest cruising destination outside of the U.S.? Cuba! And apparently a number of lines are adding Cuba to their itineraries, including Star Clippers and Crystal Cruises. Cruising to exotic Asian destinations is also in high demand. And you can expect lines to adopt an all-inclusive business model. A few issues ago, I wrote about what cruise lines were doing to attract the family and multi-generational market. It appears this trend is on the rise as
6 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
editor@dreamscapes.ca
more and more families experience cruising. To meet the demand, ships have designed cabins and luxury suites for families and these are the hardest to book. So plan accordingly and reserve early. Cruise ships are also amping up their on-board Internet and technological conveniences by offering more Wi-Fi and apps at sea. It appears travel trends also differ from generation to generation. According to the folks at RBC Travel Rewards, 26 per cent of millennials (18 to 34) prefer to discover the world in luxury and dine at gourmet restaurants while 32 per cent of 35 to 54 year olds and 36 per cent of Canadians aged 55 to 64 describe themselves as budget travellers. When it comes to popular destinations, hotels.com indicates Canadian destinations are making strides, which isn’t surprising given the dismal value of our loonie against other currencies. The surprising trend is that secondary Canadian cities such as Canmore, Kelowna, Kamloops, Revelstoke and Tofino in the west, Windsor, Waterloo and Barrie in Ontario, Mont Tremblant in Québec, and St. John’s, Newfoundland, are making the greatest headway. Looking for something really different in the not-too-distant future? Consider the Orsos Island. According to Hungarian-born entrepreneur Gábor Orsós, a former hotelier, his company has completed the first man-made eco-friendly floating island, featuring six bedrooms with ensuites, sun deck, Jacuzzi, restaurant, kitchen, living room and more spread out over three decks, and equipped with 160 square metres of solar panels, wind generators and two small diesel engines should you ever fancy a change of scenery. The price tag? A cool US$6.5 million. Apparently hotel chains looking to branch out and try something different have expressed interest, which means any visions you may have of becoming an island castaway—albeit in luxurious surroundings—aren’t that far off. DS
DREAMSCAPES TRAVEL AND LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE is published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. Visit dreamscapes.ca to view this issue of our magazine in its entirety and to link easily to editorials, advertisers, contest information, as well as previous issues. LETTERS TO THE EDITOR We’d like to hear from you. Readers are always encouraged to submit emails to editor@dreamscapes.ca. PUBLISHING Joseph P. Turkel ASSOCIATE Sandra Kitchen PUBLISHERS Valerie Saunders EDITOR Donna S. Vieira EXECUTIVE EDITOR Judi Scharf COPY EDITOR Anne Champagne EDITOR-AT-LARGE Jane Stokes CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Cynthia David ART DIRECTOR Mark Tzerelshtein PRODUCTION MANAGER Julia Wall CONTROLLER Gloria Mungo PUBLISHER
PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER
Joseph P. Turkel
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DS CELEBRITY TRAVEL CORNER >> BY JOHN AND SANDRA NOWLAN
MARGARET
ATWOOD MARGARET ATWOOD IS ONE OF CANADA’S MOST FAMOUS AND BEST-LOVED WRITERS.
T
he author of more than 40 volumes of fiction, non-fiction, children’s books and poetry, she’s best known for her novels, the latest of which, The Heart Goes Last, was published by McClelland and Stewart in 2015.
The Booker Prize winner (for The Blind Assassin in 2000) travels
frequently, particularly to literary festivals and birding conferences across the globe. (She and her partner, novelist Graeme Gibson, are Joint Honorary Presidents of the Rare Bird Society.) But Margaret Atwood’s primary travel passion is Canada’s Arctic region where we interviewed her aboard an Adventure Canada expedition ship as it crossed the historic Northwest Passage.
Photo: Jean Malek
WHAT IS THE LURE OF THE NORTH FOR YOU AND GRAEME?
don’t like traditional cruising although we did cross the Atlantic
The land is astonishing. We’ve been coming here with Adventure
on Queen Mary 2. Really, it’s just a way of crossing without getting
Canada for the past 14 or 15 years. It’s like returning to the deep
jet lag on the other end.
human past after the last ice age when people learned to make clothing, live in communities and hunt game communally.
WHERE’S YOUR NEXT TRIP? We’re attending a literary festival in Jaipur, India. We’ve been to Delhi
DO YOU HAVE THE SAME PASSION FOR THE ANTARCTIC?
and Mumbai in the 1970s and ’80s, so this will be an adventure.
I’m really not that interested in it, mainly because it doesn’t have any people. There’s a lot more variety in the Arctic, an aston-
WHEN YOU FLY LONG DISTANCE, HOW DO YOU PASS THE TIME?
ishing amount.
Mainly I watch trashy movies that I otherwise wouldn’t see. Graeme listens to classical music until he falls asleep. We don’t
WHAT ARE YOUR OTHER FAVOURITE PLACES AROUND THE WORLD?
much enjoy air travel but we’re involved with a carbon-offset pro-
I’m very fond of Germany, Scandinavia and the south of France. We
gram. Otherwise we’d feel too guilty.
went to Estonia for the first time this year and liked it very much. SHOULD MORE CANADIANS TRAVEL? YOU’RE CURRENTLY ON A SMALL CRUISE SHIP. DO YOU ENJOY CRUISING?
They should travel more inside their own country. Getting to the
This is really not a cruise. It’s expedition travel because, with ice
Arctic or to Newfoundland gives them a whole different sense of
conditions and weather, you never know where you’ll end up. I
Canada. It rearranges the inside of their head completely.
DS
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 9
OLD KENTUCKY
EXUDES NEW ENERGY LIKE COUNTLESS OTHER CANADIANS, I HAVE DRIVEN THROUGH KENTUCKY A DOZEN TIMES ON MY WAY TO AND FROM FLORIDA. BUT IT WASN’T UNTIL I SPENT A WEEK TOURING THE BLUEGRASS STATE THAT I REALIZED IT SHOULD BE MORE THAN A PASSING FANCY.
BY E. LISA MOSES
I
had always associated Kentucky with
Museum in a Maysville safe house where
thoroughbreds and bourbon, blue-
fugitives once hid under the floorboards.
grass and billionaires. Looking past those icons, however, I uncovered a
string of surprises: Lexington is George
While the state’s distinction as the bourbon
Clooney’s hometown and Hodgenville is
capital of the world is undisputed, big news
Abraham Lincoln’s birthplace. Newport was
to me was the burgeoning craft breweries
the gambling capital of America before Las
along the “Brewgrass Trail” and the resur-
Vegas was even conceived. And under the
gence of wineries. Kentucky had the
bluegrass are many celebrities enjoying
country’s first commercial vineyard in the
their eternal rest, among them mystics
18th century and was once dubbed the “Napa
Thomas Merton and Edgar Cayce.
Valley of the East” since it shares Napa’s lat-
th
10 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
HAPPY HOUR
th
In the 18 and 19 centuries, many Ken-
itude and produces wine of equal quality.
tuckians supported the Underground
Initially decimated by tobacco, the wine
Railroad, smuggling slaves to freedom
industry is experiencing a rebirth now that
across the Ohio River at night when signals
tobacco-growing is in decline.
from the Cincinnati side indicated the coast
As a longstanding fan of good wines, I
was clear. Today, helping to tell the story is
relished my dinner at Lexington’s Jean
the
Farris Winery & Bistro, which offered a tan-
National
Underground
Railroad
talizing glimpse into Kentucky’s wine
is fertile fodder for ghost stories. In New-
country. My perfectly seared breast of duck
port, for example, the gang at American
was framed by herbs and produce from the
Legacy Tours brings to life an era in
on-site garden, and beautifully comple-
which the mob ruled and made millions
mented by my “flight” of four wine tasters.
on gambling, girls and bootlegging. Tales
This evening just whetted my curiosity, so
of murder abound, and lantern-light
a leisurely tour of the dozens of wineries
ghost tours raise the spectres of those
scattered around the state is high on my
who died brutal deaths on both sides of
to-do list for next time.
the Ohio River.
Not a beer drinker, I was converted at
Old Louisville with its chock-a-block
West Sixth Brewing in Lexington, where
mansions claims to be the most haunted
the unique tastes of lemongrass wheat and
neighbourhood in the U.S. David Domine,
cacao nibs seduced my palate. While the
our guide and author of Ghosts of Old
quality and flavours are clear reasons for
Louisville, gave us the full treatment—from
their success, co-founder Ben Self points
eyewitness testimony to delectable home-
out that being a good neighbour is an
made bourbon balls that soothed our souls
important contributor. Among the initia-
after our walking tour. I also stayed at the
tives they have undertaken is converting a
famous Seelbach Hilton Hotel, where F.
130-year-old bread factory into a multi-
Scott Fitzgerald met local mob boss George
purpose brewery, tap room, restaurant,
Remus and admiringly modelled the Jay
community centre and art studio. The
Gatsby character after him. Haunted by
brewery also donates six per cent of net
several ghosts, including the “Lady in
profits to charities.
Blue” who in the early 20th century fell to her death in an elevator shaft, the Seelbach
GUNS AND GHOSTS
inspired Tom and Daisy Buchanan’s wed-
Kentucky’s rich and often violent history
ding scene in The Great Gatsby.
OPPOSITE: Rich in history, the MainStrasse Village in Covington is a walkable community in Northern Kentucky. E. Lisa Moses RIGHT FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Some houses in Covington’s historic Licking Riverside neighbourhood were part of the Underground Railroad. E. Lisa Moses The gang at American Legacy Tours in Newport brings to life an era in which the mob ruled. E. Lisa Moses LEFT: Maybe nothing defines the culture of Kentucky better than the state’s obsession with horses. Kentucky Department of Travel & Tourism
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 11
Farther south in Bardstown, the spirit of outlaw Jesse James is said to live on in the Old Talbott Tavern, where he once shot up a second-floor lounge that is now part of the Jesse James suite and a popular tourist attraction. While I had initially been assigned the outlaw’s former bedroom, the life-sized photo of him staring down at the bed made me uneasy, as did the staff stories of strange goings-on in that room such as rattling doorknobs and disembodied footsteps. This prompted me to move to the Daniel Boone room on the far side of the hotel—and enjoy an undisturbed sleep.
ART AND ARTISTRY Just across the river from Newport, Kentucky, is its Siamese twin—Cincinnati, Ohio—conjoined by the important John A. Roebling Suspension Bridge that is both
all ages. The historical site houses massive
pedestrian- and vehicle-friendly. Boasting a
buildings reflecting the traditional values of
vibrant arts scene, Cincinnati has created an
simplicity, utility and fine craftsmanship.
“Arts and Culture on a Budget” program.
Elegant yet simple visitor accommodation
Offerings include self-directed and group
emulates the furnishings, woodwork and
walking tours of more than 100 murals in 36
lifestyle of the nearly extinct Shakers world-
neighbourhoods. Art exhibits at the 21c
wide. Surrounding the property is the
Museum Hotel are open to the public 24/7
longest “dry stone” fence in America, care-
free of charge, while no admission is
fully crafted in the 19th century by imported
required to the 60,000-item Cincinnati Art
Irish or Scottish stonemasons.
Museum during opening hours from
Art can crop up in the most unusual
Tuesday to Sunday. The historical Cincin-
places. Tucked into a side street of down-
nati Observatory, home to the world’s oldest
town Covington, a stone’s throw from a
telescope still in use, appreciates a US$5
cathedral modelled after Notre Dame in
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Enjoy timeless classics at the Stephen Foster Story, Kentucky’s official outdoor musical, staged every summer on the grounds of My Old Kentucky Home State Park.
donation for tours.
Paris, is the small manufacturing plant and
Kentucky’s plethora of art galleries,
showroom for Donna Salyers’s Fabulous-
museums, shops and studios opens more
Furs. An enterprising faux furrier, Salyers
doors to not only some fascinating history,
has created art that imitates life to the point
The beer list at the West Sixth Brewing Production Brewery and Taproom in Lexington is never the same but always local.
but also opportunities for learning crafts
at which the two are virtually indistinguish-
and skills.
able. The world has gone wild for her
A case in point is the 1,215-hectare Shaker
concept of “responsible luxury,” with stars
A guided tour of the Keeneland Race Course takes visitors through the Jockey Garden.
Village at Pleasant Hill, which provides a 3D
and stores from Oprah Winfrey and Lord &
“Shaker chic” backdrop for artisans and art
Taylor to Saks Fifth Avenue and Simons in
admirers. Experts in skills such as leather-
Canada snapping up the garments.
OPPOSITE: Enjoy a relaxing tour on board Shaker Village’s 115-passenger riverboat, the Dixie Belle. E. Lisa Moses
12 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
craft, quilting, weaving and dry stone
One of my biggest surprises, since I was
masonry deliver workshops for visitors of
aware only of Churchill Downs in
TRAVEL PLANNER Oktoberfest and Maifest. Louisville is famous for the Kentucky Derby Festival and the end-of-summer Kentucky Bluegrass and Bourbon Experience. This exhilarating tour of “my new Kentucky home” just scratched the surface for me. From now on, I’ll be timing my drives to dig further into this exciting, evolving state. So I’ll see y’all next time.
Louisville, was Lexington-based Keeneland. Both a racetrack and reputedly the world’s premier thoroughbred auction centre, Keeneland is a work of art, boasting vast gardens and grounds where the public can picnic, hang out and learn how to bet and barter. The nearby themed Kentucky Horse Park offers family activities and houses the remains of equine celebrities including Triple Crown winner War Admiral, defeated by Seabiscuit in 1938. The historic Keeneland track was featured in the 2003 movie Seabiscuit, and in 2015, for the first time, Keeneland hosted the Breeders’ Cup to great fanfare. Across the road is Lexington’s boutique airport where the private planes of billionaire buyers come and go.
A FEAST OF FESTS While I was unable to attend any festivals on this trip, I found a number of annual events throughout the state that celebrate its natural resources, history and culture. Among these are Newport’s Great Inland Seafood Fest and Covington’s German
DS
Driving time from Toronto to Lexington is about 10 hours. Air Canada flies directly from Toronto (YYZ) into Cincinnati (CVG); other airlines fly the YYZ–Lexington (LEX) route with transfers. For additional information and trip-planning ideas, visit kentuckytourism.com.
A DESIGN AND FASHION MECCA
BY JACQUELINE YAU
FROM ITS ORIGINS IN THE LATE 19TH CENTURY AS AN UNINCORPORATED RAILWAY TOWN, JUST OUTSIDE THE REACH OF THE LAW, WEST HOLLYWOOD (WEHO TO THE LOCALS) HAS LONG ATTRACTED THE UNCONVENTIONAL, THE FREE THINKERS AND THE GLITTERATI. The West Hollywood Design District boasts the highest concentration of design businesses on the West Coast. Visit West Hollywood
lthough the grit and lawlessness
A
square mile of tree-lined streets and the
Center, which features a rotating exhibition
are gone, the creative thinking
highest concentration of design businesses on
of architecture and design from the Los
and trendsetting styles linger on
the West Coast. More than 300 merchants line
Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art.
and WeHo remains the epi-
Melrose Avenue, Robertson Boulevard and
centre of cool. Downtown Los Angeles and
Beverly Boulevard featuring a mix of luxury
EXPLORE, BROWSE AND LEARN
Hollywood sprawl to the east while Beverly
brands, quirky boutiques, high-end fashion
For a collaborative and learning opportu-
Hills, Santa Monica and Venice Beach sit to
houses, art galleries and design showrooms.
nity, participate in DIEM: Talks Design on
the west. As a result, pioneers in design, art,
Want to rub shoulders with a celebrity or
November 11, an annual one-day sympo-
fashion, furniture and architecture con-
two? Duck into Christian Louboutin or 3.1
sium in the West Hollywood Design
tinue to gravitate to WeHo.
Phillip Lim. Looking for the finest in con-
District, which brings together luminaries
temporary
Italian
in design, decorative and fine arts, architec-
furniture, Herman Miller, known for the
furniture maker Minotti Los Angeles at their
ture and fashion for discussions, keynotes
Noguchi table and Eames Lounge Chair,
global flagship store. If art and design
and panels.
opened its Charles Eames-designed show-
appeal more, visit established fine art gal-
For spring fun, attend the West Holly-
room in 1949 on Beverly Boulevard. In 1975,
leries such as Denenberg Fine Arts, Trigg
wood Design District’s newest event, A Street
the Pacific Design Center, an architectural
Ison Fine Art and George Stern Fine Arts.
Af(fair), a European-style street design fair,
The influential manufacturer of modern
furnishings?
Visit
gem known for its outsized blue, red and
To explore emerging talent, visit De Re
green buildings, was built by noted architect
Gallery, Art Angels and Galerie Montaigne.
Cesar Pelli, famous for the Petronas Towers in
Or walk over to the MOCA Pacific Design
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Designer Alberta Ferretti and Italian fashion house Moschino chose to open their first boutiques in North America in this densely packed design mecca.
WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT If you venture down to southwest WeHo, you’ll find the West Hollywood Design District, a
14 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
which debuts on April 30. Whatever your creative impulse, WeHo will satisfy every design aesthetic. Enjoy!
TRAVEL PLANNER For more information on West Hollywood, log onto: City of West Hollywood: weho.org Visit West Hollywood: visitwesthollywood.com West Hollywood Design District: westhollywooddesigndistrict.com
DS
HOMESPUN HARMONY FRESH RURAL AIR ALWAYS AFFORDED US AN AMPLE APPETITE. PARTAKING IN SECOND HELPINGS, IT ALSO ELICITED A DEMURE SMILE FROM OUR BONNETED HOSTESS.
16 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
BY ALAN G. LUKE & JACQUIE D. DURAND ot far from the southern Ontario
N
nonites live in the surrounding countryside
village of St. Jacobs, a Mennonite
of the Village of St. Jacobs. Mennonite roots
meal materialized as a mouth-
can be traced back to the 16th century Refor-
watering order of the day. Old
mation in Europe. Pennsylvania German
Order Mennonites to be precise. Murray and
Mennonites migrated to Canada from the
Esther Metzger provided a substantial lunch
U.S. after the American War of Independ-
for our group. Actually, they consider
ence. One has to admire their healthy,
lunchtime “dinner” since, in our case, it con-
benevolent Christian beliefs.
stituted hefty homemade helpings of
Following our feast, Esther Metzger
meatloaf, scalloped potatoes, peas, coleslaw,
proudly displayed her hand-sewn quilts,
stuffing and devilled eggs. A standard offering
methodically unfolding the large blanket-
of three delectable desserts consisting of fruit,
sized quilts one by one to exhibit their
trifle and cake followed our hearty meal.
attractive patterns and colourful designs.
This amiable encounter was reminiscent
“Mennonite women are expected to make at
of a large family gathering that appeased
least seven quilts starting from the time they
both my appetite and interest in the Men-
turn 14 until their marriage,” she told us.
nonite
million
This is evidently enough to last a lifetime. A
Mennonites worldwide, 200,000 reside in
retail store in the nearby village of St. Jacobs
Canada and nearly 4,000 Old Order Men-
sells Mennonite quilts.
lifestyle.
Of
the
1.5
VILLAGE EXPLORATIONS
Mennonite settlers, was a stop on a stage-
Along both sides of King Street, several
coach route and offered food, shelter and
intriguing antique, craft, fashion and food
watering troughs for horses. Today, Men-
shops beckon visitors. Century-old struc-
nonite horse and buggies and horse-drawn
tures such as the adjoining Village Silos and
trolley tours have replaced the stagecoaches
The Mill house feature works of artisans and
of the mid-1800s.
local history exhibits. A Quilt Gallery, pot-
The original village Home Hardware
tery, candy makers, original artwork and
store on King Street has spawned more than
native gifts as well as a Maple Syrup
one thousand retail outlets across Canada.
Museum and Home Hardware exhibition
To commemorate its 40th anniversary in
are all worthwhile browsing.
2004, Canada Post issued a 49-cent stamp
Located 120 kilometres west of Toronto,
to the prominent independent hardware
the settlement of St. Jacobs was established in
retailer. Various exhibits at The Mill trace
1852 where a sawmill and gristmill were
the evolution of both the company and
erected on the Conestoga River. By 1894 elec-
merchandise distributed over the years.
tricity became a practical reality with the
Everything from bolts to bedpans and tools
village becoming the first community its size
to typewriters were sold. Viewing the
to provide surplus electrical power to illumi-
assorted artifacts, many of which are obso-
nate streetlights. In 1904, it also became the
lete and collectibles, brought back youthful
first in Canada to use water-generated elec-
memories of these household products.
tricity, replacing oil street lamps.
“Does the local Home Hardware store have
Across the street from The Mill, the
a surplus of green paint since it is a tradi-
Farmers’ Inn, constructed in 1852 by local
tion for Old Order Mennonites to paint their
OPPOSITE: Mennonite horse and buggies are a common sight in the St. Jacobs area. ABOVE: An exploration of The Mill, a former flour mill in St. Jacobs, reveals a number of fascinating exhibits among the shops and studios. Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 17
Since Canada does not have a long enough growing season for the particular type of grass (Sorghum vulgare) used in broommaking, supplies are imported from Mexico. Producing more than 15,000 brooms annually, Hamel Brooms is among the last Canadian manufacturers to create this style of household broom. We were literally swept away by the old-fashioned, yet effective, means by which such an item we often take for granted is made. roofs green?” we inquired. “Yes,” said Rob
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: St. Jacobs is rated among the best locations in Ontario for antique markets. As many as 600 vendors sell their produce and crafts at the St. Jacobs Farmers’ and Flea Market. Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation
Wallace, Home Hardware Promotional
THE “KISSING BRIDGE”
Events Manager, “we generally identify
We ventured out to see the only remaining
‘green’ with an eco-friendly environment.
wooden covered bridge in the province
However, green is actually more symbolic
just 12 kilometres north of St. Jacobs. The
of fertility and growth.”
West Montrose covered bridge near the
For palatably pleasing pastry prepara-
town of Elmira is 62 metres long. Also
tions, we decided to seek out the Stone
known as the “Kissing Bridge,” legend has
Crock Bakery down the street. Established
it that this Waterloo Region landmark
in 1975, 50 employees, 80 per cent of
required the traditional smooch in order to
whom are Mennonites, operate the bakery.
cross. Constructed in the same year as the
They create 35 different specialty cakes and
shoot-out at the OK Corral (1881), the cov-
produce an estimated 67,000 pies and
ered bridge spans the Grand River and can
100,000 tarts annually. The owner men-
only accommodate a three-ton capacity.
tioned the most popular pastries are Dutch
One can only imagine how the bridge
apple pie and apple fritters. The latter are
would have been enhanced by an even
renowned in the village and we proceeded
more bucolic background years ago.
to devour a few of the warm sugar-coated
Elmira received recognition in the Guin-
apple delights to confirm this. Stone Crock
ness Book of World Records for hosting the
Bakery also has a booth at the nearby St.
world’s largest single-day maple syrup fes-
Jacobs Farmers’ and Flea Market where
tival in 2000. An estimated 66,500 people
600 vendors sell their produce and crafts.
attended the festival, which included craft
Further exploration of King Street
sales, sugar bush tours and a pancake-flip-
brought us to the Hamel Brooms facility.
ping contest. Mmmm, flapjacks sound
Opened in Waterloo in 1908, it relocated to
good. Wonder what’s on the Metzgers’
St. Jacobs in the early 1990s. The sturdy
menu today. DS
wooden door opened into a former blacksmith shop. Built in 1864, it is now a successful corn broom-making operation. Entering the premises felt like stepping back in time. Their oldest piece of equipment still in use is a hand sewing vice, which dates from 1898. The most modern unit is a half-century-old sewing machine.
18 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
TRAVEL PLANNER For more information on St. Jacobs, visit stjacobs.com. THE MENNONITE STORY Interpretive Centre offers accurate information presented through various media.
SPECIAL TRAVEL FEATURE
From Snowshoes
TO NO SHOES Miles and miles of sun-kissed beaches warmed by gentle ocean breezes. A vibrant cultural life filled with stage performances and festivals, fine dining and non-stop nightlife, trendy shops and art galleries, golf and recreational sports, and historical spots waiting to be rediscovered. Plus a wealth of family attractions to delight all ages. Wouldn’t you rather be here? >>
The shallow aquamarine waters of the Florida Keys are perfect for paddleboarding. Jorge Moro/Shutterstock
Florida’s
TROPICAL PEARLS
A
s I drove along the Overseas Highway for the first time years ago—the Gulf of Mexico on my right and the Atlantic on my left—I felt I was entering a different world. In fact, I was entering five different worlds. The Keys actually consist of five distinct areas, strung out like a 193-kilometre-long strand of pearls south of Miami.
A STRING OF CONTRASTS In Key Largo, made famous in the Humphrey Bogart movie, explore the beauty at the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary and two state parks. Nicknamed the “Dive Capital of the World,” this island features America’s only living coral reef and several shipwrecks. Here, accommodation options run the gamut and include an underwater submarine; good restaurants are plentiful; and charter operators take you to abundant fishing grounds. The six islands of Islamorada boast attractions such as “Theater of the Sea” marine mammal park and the History of Diving Museum. Explore great hiking trails at Long Key State Park and three other state parks with historic sites. Local cuisine features daily fresh-from-the-ocean seafood specials. And Islamorada boasts a vigorous arts scene, highlighted by the Third Thursday Art Walks through the Morada Way Arts & Cultural District.
20 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
TOP: Located west of Marathon, Pigeon Key served as base camp for workers during construction of the original Seven Mile Bridge, the centrepiece of Henry Flagler’s Over-Sea Railway. Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau ABOVE: A family poses at the Southernmost Point marker in Key West. Laurence Norah/Florida Keys News Bureau
Marathon celebrates a laid-back, Old Keys lifestyle. It’s home to the Turtle Hospital, the world’s only medical facility for sea turtles; the Dolphin Research Center; the Crane Point Museum, Nature Center & Historic Site; and reefs and shoals popular with divers and snorkellers. To truly capture the essence of Marathon, visit lost-in-time Pigeon Key, once home to the workers who built the now-gone overseas railroad to the Keys. The Lower Keys offer two National Wildlife Refuges, a national marine sanctuary and Bahia Honda State Park, known for one of the most beautiful beaches in America. Blue
BY STEVE WINSTON
Hole and No Name Key beckon kayakers while bikers observe wildlife up close in the National Key Deer Refuge. And the lack of man-made light here makes for stunning stargazing experiences. This part of the Keys is also characterized by quaint bed and breakfasts and eclectic restaurants. In Key West, history, multi-ethnic traditions and cooking, great music and a funky vibe meld into a very unique destination. Tour the homes of Ernest Hemingway, John James Audubon and President Harry Truman. Enjoy end-of-theline culture leavened with local “Conch” tradition and a dash of Caribbean. Smell culinary delights as you walk down Duval Street. Music anyone? You’ll hear it all along Duval. The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum showcases historic treasures from the deep. Board the Yankee Freedom III (or take a plane ride) to Civil War-era Fort Jefferson, about 112 kilometres west. And the Key West Cemetery is the only one on Earth that will actually make you laugh! DS
TRAVEL PLANNER Plan your next tropical island getaway at fla-keys.com or call 1-800-fla-keys (352-5397).
A Bustling
TROPICAL HIDEAWAY BY STEVE WINSTON
A
t this time of year, I close my eyes and smell the crisp air and feel the ocean breezes waft across my face. Sometimes, though, I keep my eyes wide open because I don’t want to miss the amazing energy that surrounds me in Greater Fort Lauderdale—a laid-back subtropical playground in an exciting cosmopolitan region. In the mood for tropical breezes and fresh air? Head over to John U. Lloyd State Park, a serene oasis overlooking the ocean, and watch passing cruise ships going in and out of Port Everglades. Yearning for bright big-city lights? Aim for chic Las Olas Boulevard in downtown Fort Lauderdale and its great dining venues, appealing shops and boutiques.
COOL NEIGHBOURHOODS Now is “the season” when Greater Fort Lauderdale bustles with world-class art festivals, excellent exhibitions at the NSU Museum of Art, Broadway musicals and concerts at the Broward Center for the Performing Arts, as well as street fairs, golf tournaments and craft shows held throughout Broward County. It’s also the season for people-watching on Las Olas
TOP: Sunrise at the entrance to Fort Lauderdale Beach. BOTTOM LEFT: Greater Fort Lauderdale is a laid-back subtropical playground on Florida’s Atlantic coast. Greater Fort Lauderdale CVB
and the colourful street life in Lauderdale-ByThe-Sea or along the Broadwalk in Hollywood Beach, where you can skate, cycle or stroll past trendy shops and eateries serving poutine. Fort Lauderdale has developed some very hip urban neighbourhoods, such as FAT Village—the Flagler Arts & Technology Village. This evolving four-block creative district offers a mix of artisans and entrepreneurs, and Art Walks on the last Saturday night of each month. Then there’s the Himmarshee neighbourhood, the original heart of the city, which thrives with trendy bars and restaurants.
ENTERTAINMENT AND FESTIVALS Superb shopping experiences abound on Las Olas Blvd., at Sawgrass Mills and at the Galleria. New restaurants include The RitzCarlton’s Burlock Coast, the Marriott Harbor Beach’s 3030 Ocean, and the Boatyard, which overlooks the Intracoastal Waterway. Take in the entertainment (and NHL hockey games) at
22 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
the BB&T Center. Or check out the new hotels, such as the Margaritaville Hollywood Beach Resort right on the Broadwalk. For the first time, the Food Network & Cooking Channel South Beach Wine & Food Festival will expand north to host a Taste Fort Lauderdale series from February 24–28. The series kicks off with Seaside Eats, featuring Robert Irvine at the historic Bonnet House Museum, followed by star-studded events showcasing celebrity hosts all over town. Other outstanding events include Jazz in the Gardens in March; world-renowned acts at the Tortuga Music Festival in April; the Wine, Spirits & Culinary Celebration at the Museum of Discovery & Science in April; the Las Olas Wine & Food Festival in April; and the Fort Lauderdale Air Show in May. Greater Fort Lauderdale definitely rocks! DS
TRAVEL PLANNER Discover all Greater Fort Lauderdale has to offer at sunny.org. For details on the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, log onto sobefest.com.
Charmed by the
REAL PALM BEACH COUNTY T BY STEVE WINSTON
o many, “The Palm Beaches” is the island of Palm Beach, filled with elegant shops, expensive restaurants and beautiful people. To others, it’s that energetic urban core across the Intracoastal, known as West Palm Beach, with its booming nightlife and cultural scene. In reality, however, “The Palm Beaches” are much more. Did you know there are 75 kilometres of beautiful beaches in Palm Beach County? Covering more than 5,120 square kilometres from the golden beaches and exciting towns in the east to the Everglades and Lake Okeechobee, the second largest freshwater lake in the continental U.S., in the west, it is the largest county in America east of the Mississippi. Within the county, there are 38 unique cities and towns as well as 200 cultural attractions, 160 golf courses, and a collection of exciting downtown centres and festivals. And due to myriad ecosystems, it offers an endless array of recreational options.
ACTIVITIES ABOUND The county’s hub-towns are Boca Raton and Delray Beach in the south, Palm Beach and West Palm Beach in the centre, and JupiterTequesta/Palm Beach Gardens in the north. Others, such as Wellington, which hosts world-class polo matches from January to April, and Lantana, with its beautiful beach 24 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
INDULGE IN THE GOOD LIFE
TOP: Downtown West Palm Beach lights up at night. ABOVE: SunFest, Florida’s largest waterfront music and art festival, starts on April 27 in West Palm Beach. Discover The Palm Beaches
and colourful old shops and restaurants, have their own special allure. Palm Beach County even has a growing microbrewery scene (some with eateries). Among the dozen (and growing) small-batch brewers are Barrel of Monks Brewing and Twisted Trunk Brewing. Experience the real Palm Beach County with Cycle Party on a pub-crawl made for cyclists in West Palm. Enjoy a full-moon paddle with the Jupiter Outdoor Center or at the Loggerhead Marinelife Center. Or head over to Roger Dean Stadium in Jupiter, the spring-training home of the Miami Marlins and St. Louis Cardinals, and regular-season home to their Minor League affiliates.
Discover the real Palm Beach County in downtown West Palm Beach, on exciting Clematis Street, at CityPlace or along Delray Beach’s Atlantic Avenue lined with more than 50 restaurants and bars catering to a non-stop parade of people on weekends. Browse the shops on Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, perhaps the most elegant shopping street on Earth, and in the revitalized and very cool downtown area of Lake Worth. Or visit trendy boutiques, bistros, galleries and an art museum in Boca Raton’s downtown hub, Mizner Park. Almost every weekend at this time of year, the county stages noteworthy music, art, food and wine festivals. SunFest, Florida’s largest waterfront music and art festival, starts in West Palm Beach on April 27. And don’t miss the interesting Art Walks held in Northwood Village, Delray Beach and other towns throughout the county. The real Palm Beach County is wide open for discovery. DS
TRAVEL PLANNER Uncover all Palm Beach County has to offer and plan your personalized itinerary at PalmBeachFL.com.
WILDLIFE AMBASSADORS A BY JENNY FAUSER
mid the sea of guests clamouring to catch the Blue Horizons and Shamu show or soar through the sky on Manta and Kraken, it can be easy to miss some of the elements of SeaWorld that truly reflect the heart and soul of this company. With a legacy of animal rescue spanning more than 50 years and benefitting more than 27,000 animals, responding to wildlife in crisis is a commitment they take to heart. Working in partnership with state, local and federal agencies, the park rescue teams are on call 24/7 assisting animals that are orphaned, ill, injured or in need of expert care, with the goal to successfully rehabilitate animals for return to the wild. The small percentage of animals whose injuries are too debilitating to permit release are given lifelong care. The company maintains one of the largest animal collections in the world and has helped lead advances in the care of
26 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
species in zoological facilities and the conservation of wild populations.
GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR VISIT WITH A BEHIND-THE-SCENES TOUR As a parent and animal-lover myself, a day at any of the SeaWorld parks feels like the best of both worlds. My children are entertained and have fun visiting the parks, but end up learning so much about the animals and conservation, almost without even realizing it. Did you know that since 1980, SeaWorld has rescued more than 1,500 sea turtles? You can learn how SeaWorld cares for rescued sea turtles and manatees at TurtleTrek. Whether coldstunned from below normal water temperatures, entangled in fishing gear, injured from a motorboat strike or impacted by an oil spill, the park provides treatment and a place of recovery. As they become healthy enough, they are released back to the ocean for a second chance at life.
TOP: At SeaWorld Orlando’s TurtleTrek, guests can find out what it’s like to be a turtle and learn about the incredible journey—and peril—these animals face throughout their lives and what we can all do to help them survive. ABOVE: Go behind the scenes at Antarctica: Empire of the Penguin and hear from animal experts about what it takes to care for these unique birds. Plus, get a rare opportunity to interact with and touch a penguin. © 2015 SeaWorld Parks & Entertainment
SEAWORLD ORLANDO TEAM MEMBER SPOTLIGHT Jon Peterson is a zoological supervisor at SeaWorld Orlando and a member of the animal rescue team. “My career started in 1993 at SeaWorld Ohio. I’ve always loved animals and being outdoors so pursuing an animal career and having a positive effect on their lives made SeaWorld the perfect career choice. “There is never a typical day in my job. It starts around 6 a.m. working with all the mammals in our park, but that can change at any time when we get a call that an animal needs our assistance. “Being part of the SeaWorld animal rescue team is one of the most rewarding and challenging jobs I could ask for. To be able to help an animal, rehabilitate it and return it to its natural environment is amazing and truly rewarding. “Working in cooperation with local, state and federal agencies, SeaWorld will rescue and assist any animal in need inclusive of dolphins, whales, manatees, birds and turtles. “We’ve had many challenging rescues over the years, including a manatee in the Everglades that needed to be helicopter-lifted. More recently, the team worked through the night to rescue 19 manatees stuck in a drainpipe in a residential area of Satellite Beach, Florida. After nearly nine hours, all were successfully relocated to the Indian River Lagoon. I love to share these stories with guests. “The most satisfying part of our job is helping an animal not only survive, but thrive. We’ve had the privilege of hand raising an orphaned manatee and then seeing it years later with its own offspring. To know you played a role in helping that population thrive is awesome. “Sadly, trash is one of the main reasons we’re called to assist animals. Animal entanglement or a sea turtle that has ingested a plastic bag can be prevented if each of us disposes of trash properly and recycles. It’s so rewarding to share these rescue stories with guests every day, to inspire them to make a difference in their actions that can help these animals in the wild. “If you think an animal is in need of help, contact local agencies. Unless you are trained to work with injured animals always watch from a distance and wait for direction or help from a professional.”
ABOVE: SeaWorld Orlando’s Behind-the-Scenes tour offers the rare opportunity to see how animal experts care for rescued manatees and sea turtles. BOTTOM LEFT: SeaWorld Orlando rescue team member Jon Peterson (far right) helps fit a custom brace for a pilot whale with scoliosis. © 2015 SeaWorld Parks & Entertainment
The park’s Behind-the-Scenes tours lets guests see more fully how much care goes into saving rescued manatees, sea turtles, sea lions and other animals in need. At Busch Gardens Tampa, visit the Animal Care Center to learn first-hand how the team cares for more than 12,000 animals that reside at the park. Or take a ride on the Serengeti Plain, a 26-hectare expаnse and home to hundreds of animals such as zebras, giraffes and rhinos. Some you can even feed by hand! Many of the tour admissions include a donation to the SeaWorld & Busch Gardens Conservation Fund to support conservation projects around the world. Going behind the scenes is a great way to engage and explore, but the end of most shows also provides an opportunity to meet trainers and observe their passion and commitment first-hand. My family likes to hang back after a show is over to chat with trainers.
LEADING THE WAY My kids love to be greeted by the park’s animal ambassadors many of whom were orphaned or injured in the wild and given a second chance thanks to the SeaWorld Rescue Team. At every turn, the park immerses guests in conservation and animal welfare information in an engaging way. For example, the parks have discontinued the use of plastic bags in all park gift shops and now use only bags made from recycled paper and reusable bags. This initiative keeps an estimated four million plastic bags from entering landfills and the environment (such as the ocean where they can be harmful to sea life) each year. DS
TRAVEL PLANNER
For more information on SeaWorld and Busch Gardens parks, visit seaworldparks.com. Canadian at par pricing at seaworld.ca or buschgardens.ca offers the very best deals for Canadian residents. Enjoy the warmth of Florida and thrills of SeaWorld and Busch Gardens now through April 30, 2016, with at par pricing, available from US$59 with advanced purchase.
28 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
Magically
SPELLBINDING E BY STEVE WINSTON
very time I visit the Emerald Coast, I uncover another layer, another experience, another timeless sensation. Centred around Destin, Fort Walton Beach and Okaloosa Island, the Emerald Coast boasts historical sites, modern attractions and delicious seafood, all surrounded by nature’s bounty. Here, Gulf sunsets are spectacular; the sugar-white sand beaches are serene; and the atmosphere is tranquil.
CATCH THE EXCITEMENT During the summer, participate in guided nighttime sea turtle walks on the beaches of Okaloosa Island and Destin. In fact, throughout the area you’ll find animals you’ve never seen before, dwelling in habitats that include longleaf pine forests, steephead ravines, barrier islands and hot springs.
30 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
ABOVE: There are dozens of fishing and touring operations ready to take you out on the clear waters along the Emerald Coast. LEFT: Bask on serene sugar-white sand beaches found along the Emerald Coast. Emerald Coast CVB
Dozens of charter operators can take you where the fish are running. While you’re out there, dive or snorkel in the clearest waters you’ve ever seen. If you prefer to sit back and relax, book a boat tour to a host of beautiful spots. Or if you’d rather propel through these emerald-green waters, every type of watercraft from waverunners to kayaks is available. Visit family-friendly museums such as the Air Force Armament Museum and the Emerald Coast Science Center. Get up close and personal with native and exotic animals at the Emerald Coast Wildlife Refuge Zoological Park and the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park. Love seafood? Emerald Coast restaurants deliver only the freshest fare from the Gulf to your platter. Personal favourite haunts are in the Arts & Entertainment District in Fort Walton Beach, the Boardwalk on Okaloosa Island, and the shops, restaurants and nightclubs in HarborWalk Village in Destin. The Emerald Coast offers a unique combination—a spellbinding setting and a ton of fun! DS
TRAVEL PLANNER Plan this year’s escape to the heart of Florida’s Emerald Coast at emeraldcoasting.com and be sure to check out their Gulf-to-table fishing-and-eating guide at emeraldcoastfl.com/gulf-to-table.
Full of BY STEVE WINSTON
SURPRISES!
F
or a long time, the Daytona Beach area has been known for auto racing and beautiful beaches. And rightly so. In recent years, however, the area has transformed into a multi-faceted family getaway. There’s a vibrant cultural life here featuring a ton of colourful open-air festivals; excellent dining; great golf; water recreation—both in the ocean and on the Halifax River—everywhere you look; interesting historical spots; and a wealth of family attractions. “A long time ago we were known as a college Spring Break destination,” says Tom Caradonio, executive director of the Daytona Beach Area Convention & Visitors Bureau. “These days, families enjoy festivals and youth athletic competitions during our Spring Family Beach Break. It’s an amazing time of year.”
CATCH THE ACTION For a peaceful getaway, 37 kilometres of oceanside beaches are a great place to start. For a sheer adrenalin rush, few things are as exciting as a race at Daytona International Speedway, which recently underwent a US$400-million upgrade. However, these two long-time favourites are just the beginning. At the Marine Science Center, you can observe creatures from the sea and the sky rehabbing from injuries. You can climb the Ponce de 32 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
TOP: The Daytona Beach Boardwalk and Bandshell are at the epicentre of Daytona Beach life. RIGHT: Long known for its beautiful beaches, Daytona Beach is a multi-faceted family getaway destination. Daytona Beach Area CVB
Leon Inlet Lighthouse—Florida’s tallest! Adjacent to the Smithsonian-affiliated Museum of Arts & Sciences, the recently opened Cici and Hyatt Brown Museum of Art showcases the most comprehensive collection of Florida art on Earth. In addition to the Riverfront Shops and a lively town centre, Daytona Beach’s downtown is filled with historic structures such as Jackie Robinson Ballpark, where Robinson first played professional baseball (and where the Minor League Daytona Tortugas play baseball today). The 1938 Boardwalk Amusement Area is the epicentre of Daytona Beach life. The new “Sand Blaster” rollercoaster is a must-try experience, surrounded by a variety of indoor and outdoor attractions, such as arcade games, the shops and restaurants of Ocean Walk Village, the historic bandshell, and—my personal favourite—a landmark taffy factory, from which you’ll still be lickin’ your fingers an hour later. The region has transformed itself in recent years into “The Festival Capital of Florida,” with events like the Native American Festival; Daytona Beach Film Festival; Daytona Beach Blues Festival; Spring Turkey Run (classic cars); Art
in the Park; Festa Italiana; Celtic Festival; Sweet Corn Festival; HippieFest; and the Reggae & Island Music Festival in New Smyrna Beach. This year will see the Country 500 Music Festival with a lineup of top country superstars performing at the Speedway, May 27–29. Daytona Beach is also an emerging “foodie” destination. On the newly launched Daytona Beach Ale Trail, sample innovative craft beers at a dozen small-batch breweries run by local entrepreneurs. And Granada Boulevard in Ormond Beach is like a walkable foodie nirvana, due to the independent restaurants located downtown (and the old-time black-and-white movies projected onto the sides of buildings). The “new” Daytona Beach is full of surprises. And discovering them is incredibly fun! DS
TRAVEL PLANNER To plan your exciting Daytona Beach getaway, visit daytonabeach.com.
A Sweet Spot
IN CENTRAL FLORIDA
BY STEVE WINSTON
W
hat’s interesting about Kissimmee is that it’s a slice of “Natural Florida” right in the middle of the theme-park capital of the world . . . giving visitors a taste of how Florida used to be, filled with natural beauty and a ton of outdoor adventures to enjoy. “We’ve got the world-famous theme parks right in our backyard,” says Nori Rodriguez, Communications Manager at Experience Kissimmee. “But we also have the headwaters of the Everglades. So, just minutes from the parks, you can canoe or kayak under a canopy of cypress trees.”
NATURE’S BOUNTY View exotic animals at Wild Florida Airboats & Wildlife Park, or take a “Swamp Buggy” ride through land on which cattle grazed until recently. Ride the wind with Orlando Balloon Rides. Then explore still waters with the Paddling Center at Shingle Creek. At Warbird Adventures, experience Central Florida from yet a different perspective—the cockpit of a World War II fighter plane. Or glide along the ground with ZE Segway Tours. Fishing? Kissimmee’s renowned for its largemouth bass. Nature trails? Osceola County offers excellent hiking, biking and horsebackriding trails through tropical hammocks and landscapes not found elsewhere. Outdoor 34 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
TOP: Visit Walt Disney World Resort’s Magic Kingdom while in Kissimmee. ABOVE: Explore the natural side of Kissimmee on a paddling excursion. Experience Kissimmee
relaxation? Dozens of beautiful lakeside parks, such as the Kissimmee Lakefront Park or Shingle Creek Regional Park, make the rest of the world seem a million miles away. Want to hit a few golf balls? You’ll find more than a dozen courses here.
COWBOY COUNTRY Get a taste of local history at the Welcome
Center and History Museum, where the area’s cattle-ranching legacy comes alive again. It wasn’t too long ago Kissimmee was the home of “Cracker Cowboys” and enormous cattle ranches; twice yearly, it still stages the Silver Spurs Rodeo, the largest rodeo east of the Mississippi. And both Kissimmee and St. Cloud feature interesting historic districts. If you’re here in springtime, watch modern history being made at the ESPN Wide World of Sports complex, where the Atlanta Braves train. And, in this region that attracts more tourists than anywhere else in the world, you can dine among a vast selection of restaurants and shop at some great retail complexes. Upcoming events include the Epcot International Flower & Garden Festival, March 2–May 30; the Runaway Country Music Fest, March 18–20; and the RAM National Circuit Finals Rodeo, April 7–10. Yes, Kissimmee does, indeed, have the world’s greatest theme parks—just minutes from all that is natural in Florida. DS
TRAVEL PLANNER Explore all Kissimmee has to offer at ExperienceKissimmee.com.
COSTA MESA
CALIFORNIA’S “CITY OF THE ARTS” ALSO OFFERS RETAIL THERAPY AND IS A FOOD HAVEN.
BY CHRISTINE DELSOL
T
ucked between Anaheim and the
port Beach along the renowned East 17th
coveted zip codes of Newport
Street Culinary Corridor, but even the funky
Beach on the coast, Costa Mesa
strip malls harbour intriguing indie shops.
(pop. 113,000) would be easy for a
Costa Mesa adopted the motto, “City of
visitor speeding through the city on the I-405
the Arts,” in 1999. The four performance
freeway to dismiss as a typical suburb, except
halls, studio space and education lab of the
for the locals streaming in from all corners of
Segerstrom Center for the Arts constitute
the county and beyond to the city’s retail cen-
Orange County’s primary performing arts
tres, inventive restaurants and major arts
venue, hosting three resident companies
venues. The coast is within easy reach, however Costa Mesa is removed from the crowds and offers less expensive lodging.
TOP: The Segerstrom Center for the Arts presents a variety of performances. ABOVE: Couple dining at The LAB in Costa Mesa. Costa Mesa Conference & Visitor Bureau
First, a native village visited by Mission
and offering the best lineup of Broadway shows, dance and musical performers outside of Los Angeles. Also notable are the South Coast Repertory theater, Costa Mesa
San Juan Capistrano padres who grazed
claims one of the world’s largest collections
Playhouse and a local secret: the California
cattle here, and later, a prosperous agricul-
of fashion designers, but Costa Mesa also
Scenarios, also called the “Noguchi Garden”
tural community, Costa Mesa hosted many
hosts a thriving alternative shopping culture.
for famous artist Isamu Noguchi, whose
thousands of trainees during World War II
The LAB “antimall” started the trend,
6,475-square-metre sculpture garden weaves
at the Santa Ana Army Air Base (site of
mixing diverse and quirky shops and eating
native plants and stone into an abstract rep-
today’s Civic Center, Orange Coast College
spots with art and DJ events; across the street,
resentation of the state’s redwoods, desert
and county fairgrounds). Many returned
The CAMP is a bastion of eco-conscious local
and everything in between.
after the war, rapidly building the city into
artisans, equally enticing for innovative
a major commercial and industrial centre.
restaurants serving rabbit tacos, native cashew cheese and gelato flights. The OC Mix
TRENDSETTING CULTURE
is a something-for-everyone collection of
Luxurious South Coast Plaza is the West
unique shops and specialty foods. Foodies
Coast’s largest shopping destination and
can eat their way from Costa Mesa to New-
36 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER For information on where to shop, eat, play and stay in Costa Mesa, visit travelcostamesa.com.
DISCOVER AMERICA EDITORIAL AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
2016: CELEBRATING AMERICA’S NATIONAL PARK SERVICE A
IN 2016, THE U.S. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE IS MARKING 100 YEARS AND IT’S GOING TO BE A HUGE CELEBRATION ACROSS THE COUNTRY!
century ago, the pristine landscapes were protected for eternity, for the people of the country, by an act of Congress. These days, more than 400 parks and historic sites are popular tourist destinations—together, they contain 29,000 kilometres of trails, 27,000 historic and prehistoric structures, 247 threatened and endangered species, and 167 million museum items. Last year, the parks hosted almost 293 million visitors. There’s something for everyone—all ages and interest levels. In 2016, there are many highlights and ways to get the most from a National Park visit. This is the year to include one on your itinerary. Here are a few tips and suggestions: • 2016 entrance fees will be waived on 16 specific days, including during April 16– 24, National Park Week. • FindYourPark.com, a new, interactive search tool, lists special centennial events at parks across the country. • Throughout the year, guided nighttime desert walks are held at Saguaro National Park near Tucson, Arizona. • In the Hawaiian Islands, Haleakala National Park protects the world’s largest dormant volcano surrounded by an otherworldly landscape of cinder desert. • In the month of June, astronomers guide visitors through star parties at Grand Canyon National Park. The canyon is famous for its geology: the walls and layers are snapshots of at least 10 largescale geological events during the last two billion years.
Ruins at Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado.
• Mesa Verde in Colorado is the only U.S. national park that is based primarily on human activity rather than natural features. The park protects the remains of thousands of cliff dwellings, pithouses, kivas and stone structures, all built 2,600 metres atop the flat-topped mesa. • Everglades National Park in Florida is the largest subtropical wilderness in the nation. The park is home to manatee, American crocodile and the Florida panther. • Glacier National Park borders Alberta’s Waterton Lakes National Park—together they became the world’s first International Peace Park. Glacier is known for backcountry wilderness experiences. • In New Mexico, the cliffs and archaeological ruins at Chaco Culture National
Historic Park are a must-see stop for anyone interested in American Indian culture and history, archaeology and archaeoastronomy. To light the candles on the year-long party, a new 3D film, National Parks Adventure, will be released for IMAX® and giant-screen theatres in mid-February 2016. Narrated by Academy Award-winner Robert Redford, the immersive 3D cinematography takes viewers on a front-row experience of America’s spectacular outdoor parks, wilderness and treasured landscapes. The film was shot in 30 national parks and includes time-lapse and aerial footage using special IMAX cameras to capture the best of the landscapes and wildlife across the four seasons. DS
Discover more information on travel to the USA at visittheusa.ca.
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 37
ALL ABOARD!
TO THOSE WHO THINK SWITZERLAND’S TRAINS CAN BE SUMMED UP IN ONE WORD—EFFICIENT—I SAY NOT SO FAST. BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS nyone who has ridden Swiss
A
Pass). Be forewarned: like any sumptuous
rails has a story of pulling from
buffet, your eyes may outpace your
the station as the second hand
stomach. Here are two of the eight classic
hits its mark. There’s truth there,
train journeys to whet the appetite.
world’s densest train network—is about the
A UNESCO ENGINEERING MARVEL
journey. Efficiency is simply a nice perk.
There isn’t a curve the Bernina Express
Confession: Even if Swiss trains were noto-
cannot seduce. From the palm-lined boule-
riously tardy I’d still be a fan, hooked by the
vards of Lugano across the mountains to
seductive stream of towering peaks, sun-
Chur, Switzerland’s oldest town, it’s an engi-
kissed lakes and green valleys dotted with
neering masterpiece—passing through 55
larch wood chalets.
tunnels and over 196 bridges and arched
but travel on Switzerland’s rail system—the
TOP: At the highest point of the Bernina Express, the landscape is one of snow, ice and glaciers. The high point marks the exact point of the watershed between the Black Sea and the Adriatic Sea. Josephine Matyas ABOVE: Created in 1959, the Swissminiatur park is a family-friendly way to see meticulously created models of the highlights of Switzerland— buildings, trains, mountains and valleys are all in one spot. Josephine Matyas
A buffet of rail lines criss-crosses the tiny
viaducts. Achieving the near impossible is
country—3,551 kilometres to be exact—and
what made UNESCO take notice: the route is
it’s hard to know where to start. With
a World Heritage Site.
OPPOSITE TOP: The small city of Chur is known for its outstanding medieval architecture. Switzerland Tourism/Lucia Degonda
concierge-like precision, the nation has
The Bernina Express links two contrasting
unveiled the Grand Train Tour of Switzer-
landscapes, from the Italian-speaking Ticino
land: you choose the itinerary, they craft a
canton that exudes a Mediterranean vibe to a
seamless prearranged train and hotel
mountain-dominated Swiss cliché of glaciers
package, all on one travel ticket (Swiss Travel
and blinding snow.
OPPOSITE BOTTOM: In the car-free town of Zermatt, the majestic Matterhorn is a highlight for all visitors. Josephine Matyas
38 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
My journey begins in Ticino’s Lugano, a
century challenge had engineers fiddling
place where guide Anna Bezzola says,
with their slide rules, fixated on drawing
“People feel their Italian culture.” It’s a cos-
boards as they calculated the perfect eleva-
mopolitan city rooted in history, where
tion-gaining equations, creating ingenious
strolling the waterfront promenade —gelato
curves along bridges and spiral viaducts.
in hand—connects you with locals: families
Climbing from Tirano, the tracks twist
catching a ferry to Swissminiatur (where
and turn, ascending through forests of pine,
the country’s landmarks have been meticu-
until the lakes and villages below look
lously recreated in small scale) or groups of
Monopoly-like. Higher, along flatter por-
men rolling bocce balls with the concentra-
tions of the route, the track still winds ever
tion of Olympic athletes.
so slightly, creating a gentle rocking. Snake-
Lugano is the launching point for the
like, slithering through the forest.
Bernina Express: first, by bus, we snake
As the little red train gains altitude, there
along impossibly narrow roads hugging the
are patches of snow; soon a blinding land-
shorelines of lakes Lugano and Como, from
scape of white as far as the eye can see. At
masses. But one block from the station, the
Switzerland into Italy, past traditional vil-
the route’s summit, turquoise lakes are icy
Matterhorn comes into view and I am trans-
lages, vineyards and fruit orchards. At the
pools fed by glacier streams. Kite skiers
fixed. The commercial sideshow peels away
Italian village of Tirano we break for
skim along the expanse of snow, chalking
and I see nothing but that one commanding
espresso at a small café before boarding the
up bragging rights of zigzagging back and
peak: a top runway model, perfect cheek-
dramatic rail portion of the Bernina Express
forth along the watershed divide between
bones, alluringly photogenic.
to head back into Swiss territory.
the Black and Adriatic Seas.
From Zermatt, the cogwheel Gornergrat
This is the only Swiss train to cross the
Just as I begin to confuse the seasons, the
train transports skiers, hikers, shutterbugs
Alps in the open air, without tunnelling
train slithers back down the other side into
and the curious to a higher plane; one with
summertime, stopping in medieval Chur,
a sweeping panorama of 29 peaks in the
intersection point with the Glacier Express.
4,000-metre-plus club. But it is the shape of
th
through granite mountains. The early 20 -
the Matterhorn that still hogs top billing.
THE WORLD’S SLOWEST EXPRESS TRAIN
Aboard the Gornergrat a local confides there
On reputation alone, I commit to this train
shape and a feeling that it needs to be
journey. From Chur in the east to Zermatt in
respected at a distance.
is superstition rooted in the peak’s unique
the southwest, a ride on the Glacier Express
Back in Zermatt, a display at the fasci-
(happily) gobbles up an eight-hour stretch.
nating Matterhorn Museum tells of the late
While eight hours may sound like an inter-
Ulrich Inderbinen, a local mountain guide
minable length of time to sit on a moving
who made the difficult climb more than 370
vehicle, truth is the time is filled with a
times, including one at age 90. He seemed
stream of postcard scenery along valleys
oblivious to the commercial trappings of his
carved by glaciers, up and over the pinnacle
hometown—he never owned a telephone
of summer snowbanks at Oberal Pass, past
and to hire him, climbers looked evenings
some of Europe’s highest vineyards, through
in the church square. Perhaps he chose his
the country’s deepest gorges, finally spilling
spot on a bench; the one with the unob-
out at the end of the line: Zermatt.
structed view of the peak he cherished.
Stepping from the train, I am not immediately seduced. Zermatt opened to tourism in the early 1800s with scores of alpineobsessed
Englishmen
pining
for
a
challenge. Tourism exploded—bars, shops,
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER For more information, visit SwissTravelSystem.com/grandtraintour and myswitzerland.com.
restaurants, rental properties to satiate the
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 39
SUSPENDING DISBELIEF IN
SHANXI “SPECTACULAR,” READS THE CHINESE CALLIGRAPHY.
EDITORIAL AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHANNA READ
I
raise my eyes from the two red sym-
gorge and to ensure monks could meditate
bols carved into the huge boulder by a
in complete silence, with not so much as a
Tang Dynasty poet. Suspended 75
barking dog to disturb them. There are easier
metres above me is a temple. It looks
ways to achieve this, but I’m glad monk Liao
like it has been glued to the sheer face of the cliff. Spectacular indeed.
Ran made the effort back in the year 491. Peering over the railing of the narrow
I’m not sure which is more unbelievable:
ramp that connects two of the pagodas, I
that this temple would be built in the first
experience a little vertigo. I’m reassured the
place, that it still exists a millennium and a
spindly wooden poles that appear to prop
half later, or that tourists are allowed onto
up two-thirds of the temple are only supple-
the rickety-looking structure at all, let alone
mentary and the real support structure is
so many at once.
hidden inside the cliff.
The temple is in Shanxi, a small province
Within the temple’s 40 narrow halls and
by Chinese standards with a population
tiny rooms are Buddhist, Taoist and Confu-
about the same size as Canada’s. Shanxi may
cianist sculptures, the only temple in China
be small, but it holds many marvels that are
to combine elements of all three religions.
difficult to believe.
The structure is made almost entirely of
The modern capital, Taiyuan, boasts
wood. Despite its flimsy appearance, the
trees more than 1,000 years old. China’s
biggest risk to the monastery is fire. Fire
best-preserved ancient city Pingyao looks
extinguishers—and the more picturesque
much as it did when it was founded in the
bags of sand—are placed throughout the
14th century. Thousands of intricately carved
building to prevent an errant ember from
Buddhas rest in caves. Shanxi is the home
engulfing the entire temple.
of one of China’s four holiest mountains, one that the Dalai Lama hopes to visit before
YUNGANG GROTTOES
he dies. And Shanxi has this amazing
Religion also sparks the creation of beau-
temple suspended from a cliff.
tiful things, often on an unbelievable scale. Thirty years earlier and more than 100 kilo-
THE SUSPENDED TEMPLE
metres away, another monk, Tanyao, carved
Also called the Hanging or Xuan Kong
caves in the sandstone at the foot of
Temple, this monastery was built high on
Wuzhou Mountain. Over the next 65 years,
the cliff to withstand floods from the nearby
252 caves and grottoes were cut into a one-
40 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: The red symbols on the boulder mean “spectacular”—and the Xuan Kong Temple certainly is! Mount Wutai, a sacred Buddhist place, is endowed with numerous monasteries and temples. An immense Buddha sits at Shanxi’s Yungang Grottoes.
Since the seventh century devout Buddhists from all over Asia have walked between the two sites. Last year, the Dalai Lama himself spoke of his deep desire to make the pilgrimage to Mount Wutai. Shanxi provides rare opportunities to see many spectacular sites, beautiful both aesthetically and religiously. All must be seen to be believed.
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER kilometre-long area outside the city of
MOUNT WUTAI
Datong. Today, 51,000 statues from the fifth
At another Shanxi UNESCO site—Mount
and sixth centuries still remain. The Yun-
Wutai—I am forced to suspend my disbe-
gang Grottoes are so stunning and
lief again.
significant that UNESCO bestowed them with World Heritage status in 2001.
First, because of the sheer number of monasteries clustered here. Temples have
I enter Cave No. 5. I imagine what used to
been built on this five-plateau mountain for
decorate the impressive high walls. As I round
two millennia, providing a catalogue of
a bend to the exit, I can’t believe my eyes. An
Buddhist architecture. About 50 remain. I
immense Buddha, as tall as a five-storey
hope it isn’t my disbelief that brings the
building, is spotlit by the sunlight filtering
thunderstorm of biblical proportions,
through the rough-hewn window. Stunning
which causes the crowd to cower under
as they are, I barely notice its two intricately
Longquan Temple’s brightly painted eaves
carved companions, merely half its height.
as we try to escape the deluge.
There’s another five-storey Buddha out-
The mountainous scenery here is gor-
doors and, on a different scale, the Ten
geous. Mystical five-coloured clouds,
Thousand Buddha Cave, which houses
representing bodhisattva—a state of enlight-
tens of thousands of statues of Buddha
enment—are said to sometimes appear. Not
and his disciples. I’m moved by devout
today. The dark skies hide the beautiful
Buddhists lighting joss sticks in front of
views, and I just pray I’m not hit by lightning
the main statue so the smoke can convey
or deafened from the cracks of thunder.
their prayers to heaven. The little boy I
Among the holiest mountains in China,
photograph trying to fold himself into a
Mount Wutai marks the end of the pil-
Buddha pose for his parents’ camera is just
grimage route, which begins at Yungang
as heartwarming.
Grottoes more than 1,200 kilometres away.
For more information, visit the Torontobased China National Tourist Office at tourismchina-ca.com or call 1-866-599-6636. Don’t confuse Shanxi with its westerly neighbour Shaanxi, the province with the famous Terracotta Army. You can take a bus from Beijing to see Shanxi’s sites or fly into Datong and out of Taiyuan. Hiring a car with an Englishspeaking driver and/or guide gives you maximum flexibility to see the province. The ancient walled city of Pingyao is a charming place to stay for a couple of days, with plenty of English services. Enjoy the best fried chicken you’ll ever taste near the upper west gate, where three spicy drumsticks can be purchased for 10 yuan (CDN$2). While a 72-hour visa-free visit is possible for 15 Chinese cities, the privilege is not yet extended to Shanxi province. Canadians should apply for a Chinese visa in person in Ottawa, Toronto, Calgary or Vancouver or through a travel agent. CDN$10 buys about 48 yuan. ATMs in bigger cities accept Canadian cards, but machines in smaller towns only work for Chinese cards. Most hotels will exchange U.S. dollars for yuan.
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 41
DS TRAVEL SLEUTH >> BY JANE STOKES
BE READY WHEN
OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS AS WE EXPLORE THE PLANET, TRAVEL TRENDS EMERGE PERIODICALLY TO REFLECT NEW INTERESTS AND EXPECTATIONS. IT WOULD APPEAR THIS YEAR, THE PLEDGE “TO SEIZE OPPORTUNITIES” IS OUR TICKET TO MUCH MORE EXCITEMENT.
IF YOU’RE PLANNING A GETAWAY RIGHT NOW, for instance, you may insist on one or more of three components: opportunities to sample a different culture; flexibility to extend a business trip; and engagement with family and friends using the latest in communications technology. Altogether, we currently feel a 2016 vacation is at its best if we have a chance to learn more, linger longer to smell the roses, and share it all with our loved ones in real time. Let’s examine the requirements for connectivity first. Wireless technology is available practically everywhere now, except perhaps on cruise ships and in isolated areas where satellites do the job, resulting in slower communications. And sometimes, even in populated places, travellers face challenges with cellphone compatibility, recharging devices, language barriers, hotspot reliability, and the cost of using data far afield. Be sure to research or ask about your specific needs, but the following may take the edge off the most common concerns: • Capability: Cell technology varies around the world so find out if your phone adapts to travel. Most modern equipment does. • Cost Control: Unlock your phone to replace the SIM card with one from the destination—a common purchase abroad. If your device is permanently locked, solutions include replacing it with a disposable phone once you reach your destination; renting a portable Wi-Fi hotspot; or taking advantage of free signals in a local hotspot. • Recharge: Determine the voltage in your destination and, if necessary, carry a converter along with your charging cable. The wall plug may also be the wrong shape. Adapter plugs are easily found in hotels and airport shops. With connectivity assured, it’s time to share some of this year’s most exciting experiences.
TOP: Ice fishing in Alberta is considered a mellow social affair. Crai Bower OPPOSITE LEFT CENTRE: Elegant dining facilities at B Cellars Winery in California’s Napa Valley. Michael Venerak OPPOSITE TOP: A tiny loggerhead sea turtle gets a helping hand on Amelia Island. Amelia Island Convention & Visitors Bureau OPPOSITE RIGHT CENTRE: Take in the scenery at the Punta Mita golf course in Riviera Nayarit, Mexico. Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts OPPOSITE BOTTOM CENTRE: The magnificent Ashford Castle in Ireland dates back to 1228. Insight Vacations 42 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
ALBERTA: As part of your trip to the Calgary area, imagine experiencing ice fishing on the Spray Lakes Reservoir located just outside Banff National Park. Surrounded by the towering Canadian Rockies and dense forests much of which have never been seen by a human being, link up with a guide for an insider’s opportunity. He or she will set you up in your shanty hut where you can fish for lake trout and fry them up immediately on a portable cooker. While summer fishing here is known for the totality of the experience, winter fishing is considered a mellow social affair. banfflakelouise.com
QUÉBEC: From North Bay, Ontario, cross provincial boundaries into the mineral-rich Abitibi-Témiscamingue region for a “Canada North Québec-style” adventure. Here, between the 49th and 47th parallel, surrounded by boreal forests and 22,000 waterways, a population of only 145,000 people often get a frontrow seat to the Northern Lights. Good food and hospitality are signature features of the “Québec style” and you can actually get a glimpse of how Canada must have looked 8,000 years ago. Stop at Refuge Pageau, which shelters and heals orphaned, lost and injured animals. Stay in a teepee or yurt on a canoeing expedition; descend into a deep and dark gold mine; or sign up for a snowmobile tour in winter or a motorcycle tour in spring. abitibi-temiscamingue-tourism.org
FLORIDA: Did you know preservation of nature in Florida is as much of an enticement as the state’s man-made attractions? The chance to view sea turtles nesting in Palm Beach County, for instance, is on equal footing with the desire for upscale resorting. And, further up the coast on Amelia Island, you may easily feel time has stood still since the era when marine animals were the first residents there. Observe the turtlenesting ritual yourself. On warm summer nights, females lumber out of the ocean toward drier sand, dig their nests, lay as many as 110 eggs over a three-hour period, cover them and swim away. Two months later those eggs begin to hatch, so on any given night dozens of tiny hatchlings can be seen making their way to the safety of the sea. Turtle watching is strictly monitored so be sure to join a guided group. visitflorida.com
NAPA VALLEY, CALFORNIA: From Sacramento or San Francisco, why not drive an hour or so to the serene vineyard of the Oakville Cross Road, known as the epicentre of Napa’s premium Cabernet country? Vineyards may make you thirsty however, if you are also hungry, the best bet is a stop at B Cellars Vineyards and Winery, where delectable bites are celebrated with its premium wines. Take a glass of white or red with you as you tour the culinary garden, the vineyards and the precision operations. Then sit down to sample delicacies such as the “heirloom squash agnolotti with black truffles” paired with a superior Tuscan blend. bcellars.com
RIVIERA NAYARIT, MEXICO: Golfers are always seeking inspirational settings to improve their scores so it’s no wonder most beautiful places on Earth attract the world’s best course designers. If a business trip takes you to Guadalajara, Mexico, for instance, why not add a few days in Riviera Nayarit on the Pacific coast or plan to meet your family there? Lavish resorts host several golf courses and each one is cleverly designed with panoramic surprises. For example, how about playing on a green in the middle of the sea? If you have a hard time imagining this, just book time to experience Hole 3B on the Punta Mita golf course at the Four Seasons Resort. rivieranayarit.com
BRITISH ISLES & IRELAND: Such a joy to explore, but instead of experiencing the white-knuckle left-hand driving, schedule a luxury coach tour. Take a look at the short and extensive itineraries organized by Trafalgar Tours, Globus and Insight Vacations, among others. These are not your granny’s coach tours. Emphasis now is on the unforgettable. In Ireland, for instance, stay at the 13th-century Ashford Castle, offered by the premium-luxury Insight Vacations. On the six-day Best of Devon and Cornwall (by Trafalgar), you are guests of honour at a choral music performance at the candlelit 15th-century “gingerbread church” in Exeter. Or, on Trafalgar’s 14-day Best of Britain tour through England, Scotland and Wales, visit Penny Lane in Liverpool to unravel the Beatles’ lyrics. visitbritain.com DS
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 43
DS TRAVEL GALLERY >> BY CYNTHIA DAVID
T MEXICO BEACH COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL
M
exico Beach, Florida, a tiny town on the Gulf of Mexico, was recently named a “top affordable destination” by TripAdvisor and has appeared on numerous “best places to live” and “best places to vacation” lists. Exuding a small-town intimacy, Mexico Beach has no traffic lights or chain restaurants, and its laws restrict the height of buildings to four storeys. Stroll along eight kilometres of white-sand beaches. Hike at St. George Island State Park or paddle through mangroves at Wakulla Springs State Park. Fish from shore or offshore, explore natural and artificial reefs complete with shipwreck sites, go horseback riding on the beach, pursue myriad water sports activities or hunt for seashells on Crooked Island. Visit a historic lighthouse. Browse the nearby shopping outlets of Panama City Beach, the little boutiques along Highway 98 or the antique shops of Apalachicola. Then cap off your day with a stunning sunset as you dine on fresh seafood. mexicobeach.com
he new US$500-million SKYPLEX entertainment complex on I-Drive in Orlando, Florida, is set to break world records by opening the world’s tallest roller coaster in 2017. The 174-metre structure will be the tallest in Central Florida and feature the first Polercoaster, a vertical ride dubbed the Skyscraper, which will weave in and around the tower on coaster-length tracks. The top of the tower will offer views of the city from an observation deck, restaurant and lounge. A second ride, called Skyfall, will be the world’s tallest drop ride, rising up to 140 metres then dropping riders at 145 km an hour. The project’s first major restaurant and nightclub, Mango’s Tropical Café Orlando, opened in December 2015. mangos.com/skyplex
INTAMIN WORLDWIDE
A
new exhibit, Beauty’s Legacy, Gilded Age Portraits in America, at the Flagler Museum in Palm Beach, Florida, presents stunning portraits of prominent Americans of the Gilded Age, from the 1870s to 1900, painted by leading American and European painters. The museum itself is located on Henry Flagler’s grand 1902 estate. The exhibition explores the interest in European portraits documenting the rich and famous at a time when Americans were amassing great wealth. Portraits range from society beauties to powerful titans of business and industry. Organized by the New-York Historical Society, Beauty’s Legacy ends April 17. flaglermuseum.us
CALIFORNIA TOURISM
A
ir Canada has unveiled new non-stop services between four key Canadian cities and 12 U.S. cities beginning in May and June 2016. New transborder routes include Toronto–Washington-Dulles, Vancouver–San Jose, Montréal– Denver and Calgary–San Francisco. For those travelling onward into the U.S. or Latin America, these new routes offer more travel options and convenient connections. The carrier is also adding non-stop flights between Toronto and Seoul beginning June 17, with special introductory fares starting as low as $1,399. Also in mid-June, the airline will increase frequencies from Vancouver to Brisbane, Australia, from three times a week to daily service. aircanada.com.
44 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
JAMES MONTGOMERY FLAGG (AMERICAN, 1877–1960), NELLIE MCCORMICK FLAGG (1876–1923), CA. 1906 OIL ON CANVAS. NEW-YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY, GIFT OF ARNOLD SCAASI AND PARKER LADD
W OTONO NETWORKS
C
atching up on email or obtaining directions while travelling is easy with a short-term cellular data plan from AlwaysOnline Wireless. Operated by Vancouver-based Otono Networks, AOW offers a high-speed global LTE roaming service for iPad users in more than 45 countries. With Apple SIM installed, there’s no need to hunt for a local SIM card when you land. The app allows customers to view and select data plans directly on their iPad in increments as short as one hour. Apple SIM is compatible with iPad Pro, iPad Air 2, iPad mini 3 and iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi + Cellular models. Alwaysonlinewireless.com
estJet recently announced it is increasing frequency on two of its new non-stop transatlantic operations to London (Gatwick) from seasonal to year-round service. Effective May 6, flights between Calgary and London will operate three times weekly whereas service between Toronto and London will be daily. Services from Vancouver, Edmonton, Winnipeg and St. John’s VISITBRITAIN to London will continue to be seasonal. One-way fares, including taxes, fees and charges, start as low as $271 from Toronto, $323 from Vancouver, $349 from Calgary and Edmonton, $318 from Winnipeg and $248 from St. John’s. westjet.com/londongatwick
N
CORUS HOTEL HYDE PARK
N
o trip to London is complete without attending a live stage performance. Five of the most famous theatres just happen to be near equally magnificent hotels. A short stroll through Hyde Park takes you from The Royal Albert Hall to the 200-year-old Corus Hotel Hyde Park, while the Royal Opera House is just a four-minute stroll from the luxurious One Aldwych Hotel. The Ham Yard Hotel, meanwhile, is an oasis of calm just 10 minutes from The London Palladium in the busy West End. The Royal Horseguards, overlooking the Thames and the London Eye, is close to several theatres including the London Coliseum. If you’re planning a summer visit to take in opera at Holland Park Open Air Theatre, check out the nearby K West Hotel & Spa, with its Rock ’n’ Roll theme. corushotels.com/london
estled on the Big Bend of the Florida Panhandle, Wakulla County is an easy-on-the-eyes wonderland that’s still in its original state. Kayakers and canoeists head to the Apalachee Bay Maritime Heritage Paddling Trail system while hikers and birdwatchers explore 160 kilometres of the Florida National Scenic Trail that winds its way through the county. Motorists can take in the natural splendour along the beautiful Big Bend Scenic Byway where huge old oak trees drip with Spanish moss. Other gems in the area include the Apalachicola National Forest, Wakulla Springs, the circa-1679 fort at San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park, the Gulf Specimen Aquarium in Panacea and the St. Marks Lighthouse (Florida’s second oldest light station) in the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. Wakulla County is also where to go to enjoy mullet, flounder, grouper, red snapper, cobia, blue crab and oysters as well as Old Florida favourites such as slow-cooked ribs, brisket, chicken and pork. visitwakulla.com
WAKULLA COUNTY TOURIST DEVELOPMENT COUNCIL
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 45
DS TRAVEL GALLERY >>
DS WEB LISTING >> ADVENTURE CANADA ............................................................................5 www.adventurecanada.com AIR TAHITI NUI ........................................................................................3 www.airtahitinui.com AQUA HOTELS AND RESORTS ............................................................13 www.aquahotelspecials.com TOURISM NEW ZEALAND
N
ew Zealand, a land of striking shorelines and majestic peaks, offers plenty of activities and attractions throughout the year. Take, for instance, the world-class World War I exhibit created by Lord of the Rings director Peter Jackson at Wellington’s Dominion Museum. And, due to open in 2016, his new Great Trench Experience promises a chilling, multi-sensory experience. Marathoners might check out a brand new marathon in Hawke’s Bay in May where the last 10 kilometres take runners through private vineyards and olive groves to the finish line at the gorgeous Sileni Estates Winery. Cyclists might embark on a four- or five-day adventure on the South Island’s rugged West Coast from Ross to Greymouth. Or relatively fit bikers might head to the epic Lake Taupo Challenge in November to join 8,000 other cyclists for New Zealand’s most beautiful cycling experience. For white-sand beaches and fine wine, hop aboard a ferry in Auckland heading over to Waiheke Island, where wineries are pouring 2013 syrahs, a vintage considered among the island’s best. NewZealand.com
BEST WESTERN HOTELS ......................................................................48 www.bestwestern.com CARTIER PLACE SUITE HOTEL, OTTAWA ............................................6 www.suitedreams.com DAYTONA BEACH, FL ............................................................................33 www.daytonabeach.com DISCOVER AMERICA..............................................................................35 www.discoveramerica.com EMERALD COAST, FL..............................................................................31 www.emeraldcoasting.com ESTÉREL RESORT, QC ..............................................................................2 www.esterel.com FLORIDA KEYS & KEY WEST, FL............................................................21 www.fla-keys.com FORT LAUDERDALE, FL ........................................................................23 www.sunny.org KISSIMMEE, FL........................................................................................35 www.escapecold.ca PALM BEACHES, FL................................................................................25 www.palmbeachfl.com/reconnect ST. JACOBS, ON ......................................................................................17 www.stjacobs.com
TRAVEL ALBERTA/SEAN THONSON
M
aligne Tours is a world-class business that provides interpretive boat tours and related services at Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park. Maligne, the largest lake in the park, is widely known for its scenic splendour, vivid water colour and views of three glaciers and Spirit Island. Seven tour boats operate from May through October. The company also includes a marina and a day lodge where food, beverage and retail services are offered, a historic chalet complex for catered special events, and a historic boathouse where visitors can rent canoes, kayaks and rowboats. Owned by Viad Corp., sister operations in Alberta include the Glacier Adventure and Glacier Skywalk in Jasper National Park and the Banff Gondola and Banff Lake Cruise in Banff National Park, offered by Brewster Travel Canada. malignelake.com; brewster.ca
46 DREAMSCAPES WINTER/SPRING 2016
SEAWORLD ORLANDO, FL ............................................................27, 29 www.seaworld.ca, www.seaworldcares.com TRAVEL GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA............................................................7 www.californiatravelguide.travel TRAVEL GUIDE TO CANADA ..................................................................7 www.canadatravelguides.ca TRAVEL GUIDE TO FLORIDA ..................................................................7 www.floridatravelguide.travel VISIT FLORIDA ........................................................................................19 www.visitflorida.com WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA ........................................................................15 www.visitwesthollywood.com
DS STARBOUND >> BY DIANE SLAWYCH
MASTERS
IN WINE
DIANE SLAWYCH
FOR MIKE WEIR, THE IDEA OF OPENING A WINERY TOOK ROOT AT A PIVOTAL MOMENT IN HIS CAREER. TOP AND LEFT: Sample award-winning wines at the Mike Weir Winery Retail & Hospitality Centre located in Beamsville, Ontario.
food-truck partners’ locally inspired cuisine priced from $7 to $15 and wines by the glass starting at $5 are served.
MEMORABILIA Weir now has a home in Utah, with vineSPRITZ CREATIVE
yards on his front lawn, though memorabilia
t was 2003 and he’d just won the Mas-
I
planted variety is Riesling, followed by
from his golf career remains here—on dis-
ters Tournament—the first Canadian
Chardonnay (the Un-oaked Chardonnay won
play in a small gallery on the second floor.
(and first left-handed golfer) to do so.
a Gold Medal at the 2015 Canadian Wine
The collection includes trophies, famous
As the winner, he was invited to host
Championships), Cab Franc and Merlot.
irons he used in his historic 2003 season,
the menu and wines that would be served.
ment there’s incredible limestone and
the Masters dinner, which involved selecting
“Where we sit on the Niagara Escarp-
personalized golf bags, and the menu from that Masters dinner on April 6, 2004.
mineral content throughout the soil and
“I’d say at least 50 per cent of the people
NEW BEGINNINGS
Riesling is a very terroir-expressive variety
who are into Mike Weir wines are into them
“At that moment he realized he wanted to
so it exudes a lot of those characteristics—a
not just because they’re great wines but
open a winery,” explains Grayson Riordon,
fruity, brighter, fresher, aromatic profile,”
because Mike’s a Canadian icon,” maintains
retail and on-site sales manager, Mike Weir
explains Riordon.
Riordon. And Weir, it seems, is pleased to
Winery. Not long after that dinner, for
In June 2014, the Mike Weir Winery Retail
use his celebrity for a good cause. Proceeds
which Weir chose to feature a Canadian-
& Hospitality Centre opened its doors
from wine sales go directly to the Mike Weir
centric menu and wines, the Sarnia-born
allowing visitors to sample wines at the
Charitable Foundation to help children’s
sports icon secured a 16-hectare property on
modern tasting bar, sit on the patio in the
charities across Canada. Raise a glass!
the site of the former EastDell Estates in
summer or, on cooler days, enjoy the views
Ontario’s Niagara Region. His goal was to
overlooking the vineyard beyond the centre’s
produce ultra premium VQA wines in the
glass walls. While the LCBO carries many
region where his family has deep roots.
Mike Weir wines, including Cabernet Merlot,
Located on the Beamsville Bench, which
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot
has become synonymous with Riesling, the
Noir, the limited-edition wines can only be
vineyard is small, occupying only seven
sampled and purchased at the winery.
hectares, most of it devoted to grape growing
A good time to visit is during Brunch on
for the premium-tier wines. The largest
the Bench every Sunday when one of the
DS
TRAVEL PLANNER The Mike Weir Winery is located at 4041 Locust Lane, Beamsville, Ontario, and is open daily from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Visit mikeweirwine.com for information or call 1-888-934-7444 or 905-563-1919. Brunch on the Bench is served every Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
WINTER/SPRING 2016 DREAMSCAPES 47