4 minute read
The Perfect Fusion
from Bon Vivant 2021
by Ensemble
By Theresa Storm
Savour the multicultural culinary roots of Sint Maarten/St. Martin, a unique mash-up of Dutch, French, Caribbean and Indonesia influences
It’s dinner time in Sint Maarten, one of the Caribbean’s most-visited islands and a popular port for cruise ships. A line of hungry locals and visitors snakes from the simple, but cheerful, bright yellow-and-red wooden food stand in Simpson Bay’s Kim Sha Marketplace. It’s on the southern Dutch side of this dual-nation island, the world’s smallest territory shared by two countries (France and the Netherlands).
Smoke wafts from the oil drum barbecue at The Captain’s Rib Shack, releasing intoxicating wisps of sizzling, succulent, butter-drenched spiny lobster, sticky, saucy ribs, and chicken satay brushed with special sauce, an homage to Indonesia’s colonial ties with Holland.
DOUSING CARIBBEAN SPINY LOBSTER ON AN OIL DRUM GRILL
© THERESA STORM
My stomach rumbles. “It be worth the wait, ma’am,” reassures a cheerful St. Maartener in line ahead of me. He’s right; it is, and I devour every flaky morsel of a fried red snapper topped with grilled onions and vibrant red and green peppers, rice and peas, and warm fried johnnycakes — an island specialty — at a picnic table on the front porch. A frosty Amstel Bright, the local brew, is the perfect accompaniment.
The next day I seek a lolo — a lowcost, local, casual outdoor eatery — on the more laid-back French half of the 88-square-kilometre isle. Around Grand Case and Marigot, these eateries proliferate in brightly painted Creole cottages, at the pier or on seaside covered terraces. I end up beachside at Cynthia’s Talk of the Town in Grand Case, where live music keeps me on my feet while my order of garlic shrimp grills.
GET YOUR GUAVABERRY LIQUEUR HERE
© DUTCH SINT MAARTEN TOURISM BOARD
Whether on the Dutch side or French, chefs combine Caribbean flavours with inspiration from the world’s food capitals. The island’s cuisine is a potpourri of melded flavours and cooking styles originating from the multicultural roots of at least 130 nationalities who have settled here: Africans, East Indians, Asians, Europeans, Latin Americans and more. The result of their long cohabitation is a delicious culinary melting pot stirred by cultural influences — the very definition of fusion cuisine.
Little wonder the island is known as the culinary capital of the Caribbean, home to more than 350 restaurants, and the French-governed north is chock-a-block with good choices, especially in Grand Case.
For a sublime classic French meal, try La Villa Hibiscus on Pic Paradis, the highest point of the hilly island. Here Belgian-born Bastian Schenk, St. Martin's newest master chef, creates delicious French-Caribbean dishes incorporating the homeland’s seasonal foods with local ingredients like wild guavaberry.
“I feel it really embodies the flavour and spirit of the island,” he says, as does the island’s signature guavaberry liqueur. “I also work with the hibiscus flower in savoury dishes and desserts.”
Just down the road, nestled in the Pic’s tree-clad base, lies Loterie Farm, a nature reserve and adventure park on the site of a former sugar plantation. On a wooden deck covered by sun shades, you’ll find the peaceful Jungleroom, where Canadian chef Julia Purkis creates her signature dish — Caribbean-style curry spinach chicken, which incorporates Indian and Indonesian influences.
LOTERIE FARM
© COURTESY OF LOTERIE FARM
Back in St. Maarten, taste the Netherlands at Cafe Rembrandt (chicken dipped in Indonesian peanut sauce) or the Ocean Lounge (hearty bitterballen beef balls).
For a memorable historical dining experience, head to world-class bistro Emilio’s, housed in the stonewalled sugarcane boiling house of a 17th-century plantation in the new Rainforest Adventures park. Chef Sydney Prescod blends flavours with a new Caribbean flair, enhanced by an extensive wine cellar.
© THERESA STORM
Near the water in Simpson Bay’s Sale & Pepe Marina Restaurant, Sicilian chef Davide Zagami creates food art with his seafood dishes fresh from the Caribbean and Sicilian seas, like grouper in a tomato and seafood stew. And, when available as a special, don’t forgo the fresh tagliolini in a creamy pecorino sauce.
For foodies, one thing is certain: no matter the amount of treasured island time in this two-country gem, it will never be enough.
INSIDER’S TIP
Plan a savoury tour of the island
Sint Maarten is a popular cruise destination, with ships docking at Philipsburg, the capital city on the island's southern coast. Its waterfront is lined with many restaurants and bars, so you don't need to go far to experience the local fusion cuisine.
If you want to explore a little further, some cruise lines offer excursions to places like Marigot, Grand Case and spots around the island, including a Sint Maarten Island Tour, allowing you to taste all of the highlights.
