The Art of Asado

By Joanne Sasvari

More than just a way to cook meat, the Latin American barbecue is a social gathering you can replicate at home.

If it’s a sunny afternoon in Argentina, chances are that someone will invite you to an asado. Don’t hesitate for even a minute — just grab a bottle of Malbec and go. The asado is not just a carnivore’s delight. It is one of the easiest, tastiest, most joyful ways to socialize. As with barbecue, the word “asado” refers at once to the food, the way it’s cooked and the social event at which it is enjoyed. The tradition evolved from the mid-18th to the late 19th century when large herds of cattle roamed the pampas, and cowboys known as gauchos herded them on horseback. Beef became a staple of the gaucho diet, typically roasted on metal grates over slow-burning wood fires that infused the meat with flavour.

GAUCHOS HERDING SHEEP IN EL CALAFATE

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Today, the Argentinian asado is a more genteel, suburban sort of experience. It can be a business lunch, a community festival or a leisurely afternoon with family or friends. The tradition’s popularity goes beyond Argentina’s borders — variations of the asado are enjoyed across Latin America, though it’s called “churrasco” in Brazil and “parrillada” in Mexico and Peru. An asado is also an excellent way to entertain here at home in preparation for your future trip.

TRADITIONAL RESTAURANT IN BUENOS AIRES

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It typically begins in the early to mid-afternoon and can last late into the evening. Bring a sweater and plan to help out. Although one person should take on the role of “asador,” the person who cooks the meat, everyone is expected to lend a hand. Cooking together is part of the fun.

Start by building the fire, which should always be hardwood charcoal, not gas or briquettes, and plenty of it. A kettle grill will work fine, but in Argentina, it’s often a large, brick- or stone-lined fire pit. The coals are ready when they are white and the fire looks like it’s almost dying. This can take a while, so guests can enjoy an aperitif and empanadas while they wait. (You can usually find these savoury meat- or cheesefilled pastries at Latin bakeries rather than having to make your own.)

MALBEC VINEYARDS NOT FAR FROM THE ANDES MOUNTAINS

Along with the empanadas, the menu features fresh salads of leafy greens or tomatoes with a simple vinaigrette, as well as salsas to go alongside the meat. Chimichurri is the essential condiment for just about everything; it’s a bright, fresh chopped herb salsa similar to pesto, but made with parsley and sometimes oregano or cilantro. Starchy sides like potatoes are less common. Desserts are light and easy, often featuring a fruit salad, creamy flan or ice cream drizzled with the caramel sauce known as dulce de leche.

LOCAL CHEESES, PERFECT FOR PAIRING WITH MALBEC

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But the star of any asado is the meat, and there are usually several rounds of it. If you have vegetarians on the guest list, add dishes like seitan sausages or grilled tempeh to the menu to make sure they are included in the fun. The meat chosen is rarely the prime cuts — you probably won’t find tenderloin at an asado — but it is the off-cuts that made this a relatively sustainable way to consume meat, rather than a privileged indulgence.

PREPPING THE MEAT FOR SERVING

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Once the coals are ready, start by grilling small chorizo sausages, served on buns to create the snack known as a “choripan.” The next course typically includes blood sausage and organ meats such as sweetbreads, as well as riblets and other small, bony cuts. That’s followed by chicken, pork or lamb, if you like, but always beef, preferably the tougher, more flavourful cuts such as skirt steak, hanger steak or sirloin cap. The meat is seasoned only with salt and cooked for up to an hour over low heat, which breaks down the connective tissues and turns tough cuts into tender ones.

THE SCENIC, WINDING ROAD TO MENDOZA

By the time the meat is ready, your guests’ appetites will be, too. Put the salads and salsas on the table, fill the glasses with Argentinian wine, then mound the meat on platters and pass them around. As they say in Latin America, ¡buen provecho!

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