Nordic Wilderness By Mark Sissons

By Mark Sisson

Sweden's stunning High Coast is perfect for travellers looking for outdoor adventures

Once you climb halfway up the nearly 300-metre-high east face of the granite wall at Skuleberget, the first thing that appears in the Gulf of Bothnia, shimmering in the distance. Rising above it is one of the world’s most unique coastlines. Called Höga Kusten (The High Coast) because it reaches a world record of nearly 285 metres above sea level, this UNESCO World Heritage site of low mountains, dense forests, sheltered bays, and tranquil islands offers one of Scandinavia’s most spectacular, yet accessible, wilderness experiences.

EXPLORING THE HIGH COAST

For centuries, unrelenting forces of nature have shaped this dramatic landscape into one of the most remarkable topographies on the planet. Formed from a post-glacial rebound following the retreat of the great ice sheets that once covered northern Europe, Höga Kusten’s breathtaking mixture of steep granite cliffs and rock make it ideal for adventurous hikers, island-hopping sea kayakers, and anyone who wants to escape into its labyrinth of evergreen oases. This naturally Nordic gem is just a one-hour flight or a five-hour drive from Stockholm. Gateway to Höga Kusten is the blue-collar town of Örnsköldsvik, known in North America as the home of more than a dozen NHL stars, including Vancouver’s Sedin twins and two-time Stanley Cup champion Peter Forsberg. Örnsköldsvik is also where the famous Swedish outdoor clothing manufacturer Fjällräven (Swedish for Arctic Fox) got its start and still operates a colossal outlet store packed with bargains.

ULVÖNHAMN, SWEDEN

EUROPE’S MOST UNIQUE WILDERNESS

Beyond Örnsköldsvik lies the coastal Skuleskogen National Park with wild and winding terrain that offers spectacular sea views and perfect conditions for summer and autumn hiking. A hilly jumble of pristine lakes, thick spruce forests, steep granite cliffs, and intriguing coastal geological phenomena, Skuleskogen gradually arose from the Gulf of Bothnia at the end of the last ice age to form one of northern Europe’s most unique wilderness areas.

CAMPING AND DAY TRIPPING

Easily accessible offshore is another of Höga Kusten’s gems – an archipelago of forested islands that also offer superb trekking. Most are only sparsely populated, sprinkled with seasonal holiday cabins and campsites, and most are within paddling distance from the mainland. The largest and most populous among them is the island of Ulvön, which has been inhabited since at least the mid-16th century.

Once the largest fishing port along Sweden’s northern coast, Ulvön’s picturesque village of Ulvöhamn features rows of traditional red-and-white wooden houses and a

tiny 17th-century wooden chapel adorned with elaborate murals. This village attracts hordes of visitors during central Sweden’s long days of summer. By mid-autumn, the ferry loads of day-trippers are nearly gone, making it a relatively quiet time to explore the island. If you dare to, also sample surströmming (fermented herring), considered by many Swedes to be among the finest of Baltic delicacies. Kick back with a glass of locally distilled gin and take in the stunning sunset in this most exquisite of naturally Nordic destinations.

TOAST WITH SWEDISH HERRING