COPENHAGEN: CULINARY MECCA

By Don Nichols

With the reopening of Noma in a new location in 2018, the Danish capital’s dining scene has been back in the headlines.

These days, there are plenty of top foodie spots to explore in Copenhagen. Here’s our mini guide to some of the hottest ones for noshing in this culinary mecca now.

SMØRREBRØD ©DON NICHOLS

WHERE TO EAT A WORLD-CLASS MEAL – FOR A PRICE (APPROXIMATELY $500 PER PERSON)

Chef René Redzepi closed the original Noma in early 2017 but generated buzz again when he unveiled the 2.0 version in gritty Refshaleøen, a former industrial district in Copenhagen’s harbour emerging as a dining and entertainment hub. This new reiteration has already been ranked No. 2 in the world. Also in Refshaleøen, Alchemist opened last July and was recently named Denmark’s 2019 Restaurant of the Year. Nearly $20 million was spent converting an old warehouse used to build theatre sets into a dark but exquisitely designed, multi-room dining space. Rasmus Munk, its 28-year-old chef, serves provocative small dishes, many that raise awareness of societal issues, for example, lamb’s brain calls out food waste.

WHERE TO EAT MEALS BY EX-NOMA CHEFS (FOR LESS MONEY)

Matt Orlando, Noma’s former Chef de Cuisine, emphasizes sustainability at Amass, a Refshaleøen restaurant that debuted in 2013. Its gold organic certification means that 90 to 100 percent of the foods and beverages served are organic and pesticide-free. Local farms, regional purveyors, and the restaurant’s own garden provide the food for Orlando’s “modern Scandinavian” dishes. Rosio Sanchez, Noma’s former head pastry chef, opened her eponymous Mexican cantina in late 2017 in Vesterbro, a once-seedy area west of the city centre now teeming with restaurants, cafés, and bars. Dishes to try include cod empanada and octopus tostada.

ROSIO SANCHEZ

WHERE TO NOSH ALONGSIDE LOCALS OUT FOR A FUN EVENING

Again, head to Vesterbro for its hip vibe, more affordable prices, and a wide assortment of cuisines. Ancestrale caters to pescatarians and those who like to sip biodynamic, natural and organic wines in a cozy setting. The limited menu changes daily and features five small plates. You’ll find Kødbyens Fiskebar in Vesterbro’s meatpacking district, but it specializes in seafood. Co-owned by Anders Selmer, formerly Noma’s restaurant manager and sommelier, it has earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand every year since its 2009 opening. Nearby Paté Paté is a combination wine bar, eatery, and tapas bar. The eclectic menu includes French, Nordic, North African, and Spanish dishes.

WHERE TO GO CASUAL

Four lively food halls have popped up over the last two years in various parts of the city, but all are easily accessible: Boltens Food Court, Bridge Street Kitchen, Reffen – Copenhagen Street Food, and Tivoli Food Hall. Vendors serve food from around the world – Danish open-faced sandwiches called smørrebrød, burgers, Chinese crispy duck, gyros, Moroccan flatbread, and more.

PATÉ PATÉ

WHERE YOU LEAST EXPECT TO EAT ORGANIC FOOD

In January 2019, Orlando at Amass opened Broaden & Build, a craft brewery just steps from his Refshaleøen restaurant. In a surprising twist, many of the beers are organic. Ditto for the food, mostly plant-based dishes such as spaghetti squash and roasted Brussels sprouts. Crispy fried chicken keeps meat lovers happy.