Charlevoix's Meteoric Rise

By Johanna Read

Unique culinary delights, a UNESCO biosphere courtesy of an ancient meteor and Canada’s first Club Med make an impact on visitors

Four hundred million years ago, a meteorite crashed into an area of Quebec that would (much) later become known as Charlevoix. That event helped create a natural area which is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve with forests, mountains, rivers, lakes, and tidal marshes, all enclosed within a 54-kilometre-wide crater left behind. Today, the region is having an impact on visitors who have been captivated by its top-notch culinary scene, beautiful natural surroundings and the array of activities available throughout the year.

Located about a one hour’s drive east of Quebec City on the north side of the St. Lawrence River, Charlevoix is poised to become even more ‘Massif-ly’ popular, once a new Club Med ski resort opens next winter on the slopes of Le Massif, the region’s largest mountain. It has Canada’s biggest vertical drop east of the Rockies at 770 metres, making it ideal for winter pursuits like cross-country and downhill skiing, snowboarding, and more. As soon as the white stuff accumulates – and it will with an average annual snowfall of 645 centimetres, visitors with an adventurous spirit should give Le Massif’s incredible sled run on Mount Liguori a try. On a wooden sled, you’ll take a two-hour trip to travel 7.5-kilometres and descend 757 metres, experiencing twists, turns and spectacular scenery along the way.

DOG SLEDDING AT FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU

In La Malbaie, one of Charlevoix’s two main towns, continue the thrill seeking-spirit by tackling the new Via Ferrata on the sprawling grounds of the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu. Hike 500 metres up a rock wall, aided by ropes and metal hooks for safety, to catch views of the St. Lawrence River, and navigate over a variety of challenging obstacles. Winter-loving hotel guests can also snowshoe, skate, play hockey or broomball, go snow tubing, ice fish, take off on a snowmobile, or just soak in the outdoor heated pools open year-round.

COASTAL VILLAGE OF PORT-AU-PERSIL, CHARLEVOIX

©TOURISME CHARLEVOIX, ROBERT CHIASSON

Once your appetite for adventure is satisfied, turn to Charlevoix's diverse culinary delights that have unique flavours, thanks to the region’s warm summers and salty St. Lawrence. Drive along the Route des Saveurs (Flavour Trail) to truly discover delicious offerings from local farms, artisanal producers, and restaurants showcasing Charlevoix’s specialties. Most locations remain open during the winter, but it’s best to call ahead as their hours are more limited than in peak season, and some operate by appointment.

You’ll find everything you need to create a winter picnic— enjoyed outdoors or in your hotel room—with Flavour Trail cheeses and charcuterie. Choose organic meats from Les Viandes Biologiques de Charlevoix (its chicken and pigs eat locally-grown grains), or stop by La Ferme Basque de Charlevoix, which raises its ducks with traditional methods. Pick up cheeses from la Laiterie Charlevoix, which also has a museum where you can learn how cheese is crafted using milk from the Canadienne cow.

DUCK BREAST FROM LA FERME BASQUE

©TOURISME CHARLEVOIX, ANNIE FERLAND

Famille Migneron de Charlevoix offers award-winning sheep and cow cheeses, plus great views of ewes and the countryside from its on-site restaurant, Les Faux Bergers. In addition to wines and grappa sold under its Charlevoyou label, Famille Migneron sells spirits made from whey, a byproduct of cheesemaking. It takes 10 litres of milk to make one kilo of cheese and 9 litres of whey. In environmental-conscious Quebec, whey can’t simply be poured down the drain, so the cheesemakers figured out a way to turn their high-quality whey into gin, brandy, and vodka. Also worthy of a spot in your picnic basket are Charlevoix ciders, mistelles (a sweet fortified style of French wine), ice cider from Cidrerie et Vergers Pedneault and seasonal microbrews from Microbrasserie Charlevoix.

FAMILLE MIGNERON'S SPIRITS MADE FROM WHEY

©LOUIS LALIBERTÉ

One of the more unconventional Flavour Trail stops is Le Centre de l’émeu de Charlevoix, Canada’s largest emu farm and home to more than 400 birds. In the winter, the tours are self-guided and you can learn how the world’s second-largest bird is raised and sample emu product, like emu sausage and pâté. You can purchase creams and balms made of emu oil, known for its moisturizing properties.

There’s plenty of deliciousness off the Flavour Trail, too. How about wines, spirits, and syrups made from Charlevoix heirloom tomatoes? Head to Baie-Saint-Paul for a tour and tasting (by appointment only over the winter) at Omerto, maker of the world’s first tomato wine, known to fool some of the world’s best sommeliers. Some didn’t realize Omerto isn’t made from grapes, and perhaps, you won’t either.

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INTRODUCING THE NEW CLUB MED RESORT IN CANADA

One of the newest reasons to visit Charlevoix will be the opening of stylish Club Med Québec Charlevoix in December 2021. It taps into a modern ski chalet chic aesthetic with exposed wooden beams, a bar adorned with tree branches and cozy lounges with views of the slopes. Slated to open next winter, the four-season, all-inclusive, 300-room resort features an action-packed lineup of outdoor fun, including skating, tubing, and dog sledding in winter, plus hiking and biking in summer.

Set on more than 120 hectares on Le Massif overlooking the St. Lawrence, the 5-Trident (that’s Club Med-speak for five-star) resort will appeal to skiers who like to have ski-in/ski-out and hike-in/hike-out access to their rooms. Like all Club Meds, fine food features prominently with local Quebec products playing a starring role on menus. Like Charlevoix itself, the new mountain property will offer plenty of four-season fun.