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Notes from the Last Continent

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On the Radar

On the Radar

By Gita Kay, as told by Brett Waltner

When I was 10, I made a list of everything I wanted to accomplish by age 30. Traveling to all seven continents was high on that list and, as my 30th birthday approached, I just had one continent left: Antarctica.

I spent years researching the trip, dreaming of those first steps onto a landscape that’s like a different planet: frozen and desolate, yet teeming with wildlife. This spring, I was finally able to cross Antarctica off my list — and it was worth the wait. To explore a pristine wilderness virtually untouched by humans was more surreal than I could have imagined. A world away from the noise pollution we all take for granted, I was struck by the total silence, broken only by the occasional crash of an ice floe, and the squawk of penguins. You can’t compare the experience to anywhere else you may have traveled, because frankly, nothing like it exists on Earth.

Here’s my advice for anyone — of any age — whose “list” includes this remarkable, rewarding adventure.

Get close enough for photos without disturbing the birds.
Choose The Right Cruise

Much of Antarctica’s appeal lies in its remoteness — the journey for most travelers involves a 600-mile cruise beyond the southernmost tip of South America. Small expedition ships offer a more immersive experience than larger liners because they can get closer to shore and generally offer more days on land. I opted for an 11-day expedition sailing out of Ushuaia, Argentina, with four days on land in the South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula.

Be Ready For Rough Seas

It normally takes up to two days to cross the Drake Passage, the infamous stretch of open water between Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands where waves can reach more than 65 feet. Even if you’re not prone to seasickness, it’s a good idea to explore preventative medications, such as scopolamine patches, which can help curb nausea.

March sailings present the best opportunities for whale-watching.
Know When To Book

Antarctica’s summer runs from October to March, which is the only time temperatures make cruising possible. I chose March because it’s peak whale- watching season. We spotted orca and minke whales and had a close encounter that left even our guide of 35 years deeply moved: A pod of humpback whales broke the surface just a few feet away from our Zodiac.

Respect The Wildlife

You’ll be briefed on International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) guidelines for responsible travel during the voyage. Before leaving for shore, your boots will be disinfected to prevent contamination. Tour operators also block off penguin nesting sites ahead of time so you can.

The scenic Lemaire Channel is a highlight on most itineraries.

Make It Meaningful

On Antarctic expeditions, time spent in transit is packed with on-board programming. Experts host lectures catering to every interest, from history to marine biology, providing a context for everything you’re about to witness, and even art classes to help you capture your memories on canvas.

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