Set Sail for the South of France

CRUISING PROVENCE, FROM LYON TO MARSEILLE ON THE RHÔNE RIVER.

by Waheeda Harris

The sparkling reflections from contemporary glass towers give way to 18th- and 19th-century stone buildings, dazzling in ornamentation and symmetry.

My surroundings reflect the area’s storied past as I’m welcomed into the heart of Lyon, the third largest city in France.

Choosing a river cruise through Provence was an effortless decision; its history, culture and cuisine have been an inspiration for artists and travelers for centuries. My travel advisor recommended Avalon’s Active & Discovery journey, which offered a variety of daily excursions and access to notable cities like Avignon and Arles.

THE JOURNEY BEGINS

The Avalon Poetry II will be my home for the next eight days, sailing south on the Rhône River to Port Saint Louis near Marseille. Docked at Port Rambaud, in Lyon’s second arrondissement La Confluence, it’s where the Rhône and Saône Rivers converge. Once an industrial port of shipping, markets and factories, La Confluence has been reimagined with multiple parks, walking and cycling trails and commercial buildings designed by the who’s who of modern architecture, including Christian de Portzamparc, Kengo Kuma and Massimiliano Fuksas.

A culinary walking tour of Lyon is my first outing. It’s second only to Paris in the number of Michelin-star restaurants, the prestigious culinary guide founded in France. Our host introduces Vieux Lyon by showing us its distinctive traboules (hidden passageways), many of which date back to the fourth century and feature spiral staircases and Renaissance arches.

Explore charming French towns

DELECTABLE DINING

First stop: Le Sirop de la Rue, a gourmet food shop brimming with Lyon charcuterie, including quenelles (dumplings), grattons (pork rinds) and saucisson brioche (sausage coated in crushed pistachios). The salami and cured meats I sample are skillfully made, salty and smoky.

We pop into a bakery to sample la praluline, a sweet brioche bread studded with pink pralines that’s especially popular at Christmas. I gaze lovingly at a shop window of handmade soaps displayed like rare jewels before moving on to our next stop at Le Luminarium, a whimsical tea salon, for a hot drink, a slice of gateau and a hit of free Wi-Fi.

Sample delightful cheeses in Lyon

We’re snap-happy walking beside the Saône beneath the immense horse chestnut trees, pausing in front of the impressive courthouse with its 24 stately Corinthian columns.

The last tasting is around the corner, at a quaint restaurant terrace overlooking the back courtyard of the 14th-century Cathedral Saint-Jean Baptiste, for another French passion: cheese. Each tasting plate features four regional cheeses, walnuts and a basket of baguettes we tear and share. My favorite is comte, a pale yellow cheese well known for its distinctive terroir. Returning to the ship, it’s au revoir, Lyon, as we leave behind La Confluence for Tournon-sur-Rhône.

Enjoy a savory plate of quenelles

IMMERSION IN NATURE

The next morning, our ship is docked on the opposite bank from the main village. We take an old wood and metal bridge that leads to the town’s cobblestone streets. While many fellow passengers are hiking into the vineyard hills, I’m excited to discover the village’s secret garden.

Wander through the Garden of Eden

Le Jardin d’Eden was created in 1654 by Franciscan monks, a place for prayer and contemplation. Overseen by the nuns of La Compagnie de Marie Notre-Dame in recent years, in 2008 Eric Lelong convinced the surviving sisters to sell him the land. His ongoing labor of love has slowly reimagined the hectare of plants, shrubs and trees. The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett is a favorite of mine and I’m channeling my inner Mary Lennox as I traverse the steep stone steps, pausing to see statues, ornamental ponds and colorful arrays of flowers.

I’m reluctant to leave the laid-back confines of this oasis, but back on board the convivial staff serve a picnic-style lunch on the top deck. Swapping stories of the day’s adventures with fellow passengers, I glance back up at the hill for a last look at le jardin, thrilled with my dose of green therapy. I relax with a book and an afternoon of cloud gazing as we continue south on the Rhône. Vacation mode activated.

CAVE WONDERS

Gorges de l’Ardèche, known as Europe’s Grand Canyon, is the must-see natural wonder of the region near Viviers, our next port of call. Some opt to kayak the Ardeche River, others to hike the national reserve; I choose to spelunk with a side of wine.

Take a breathtaking kayak tour on Gorges de l’Ardèche

Decked out in neon red, blue and yellow jumpsuits and helmets, my group of six is guided from the sunshine down a steep path and staircase 262 feet below the surface into the subterranean cool of La Grotte Saint Marcel d'Ardèche, which was once occupied by prehistoric peoples.

Sip wine inside La Grotte Saint Marcel d’Ardeche

The cave ceiling is easily three storeys above me as I follow the Big Stone Trail, noting glistening limestone walls and calcite pools as I carefully navigate the slippery cave surface. My trepidation is replaced by awe, as clusters of stalagmites and stalactites become visible in the glow of our headlamps.

Carefully following one another in single file, we eventually stop in an area where it’s dry, and we’re allowed to venture on our own to take photos. Our guides distribute wine glasses, and while perching on ledges, we’re led through a tasting of three organic vintages aged in this cave, sourced from the Côte du Rhône winegrowers of Saint-Andéol.

Instructed to turn off our headlamps and indulge in its scent, swish and taste, it’s a memorable experience to sip wine in total darkness punctuated by the nervous giggles of my group. I’m giddy with pride for finally checking this experience off my travel bucket list.

My favorite vacation gratification is afternoon tea: me and my journal, and a table filled with small savory sandwiches, petite tarts and cookies. I gaze out at the treelined Rhône—it’s an hour of paradise and contemplation of all I’ve seen and done so far.

DEEP DIVE INTO HISTORY

Sailing deep into the heart of Provence, the next destination is the walled city of Avignon, the former medieval home of the papacy in the 14th century.

The Palais des Papes dominates Avignon’s skyline, the largest medieval Gothic palace in Europe at 160,000 square feet. As I step through the oversized wooden doors into the palace courtyard, I’m imagining lords and ladies, courtiers and priests. Wandering through stone rooms, each with displays of art, sculpture and objects revealing the histories of the former occupants, the grand hall held a surprise: a group of singers practising for an evening performance. Their voices beautifully test the acoustics of this expansive stone room and follow me as I finish the tour, and saunter back to the ship.

I stop to peruse among the crowds in Les Halles d’Avignon, the historic indoor market where locals restock their pantries from the perfectly constructed piles of fruit, vegetables, cheese, spices, bread, cheese and meat. I’m tempted by the bowls of olives, jars of preserves and piles of freshbaked breads. Resistance is futile to the sensory overload of the market, so I splurge on two typical Provençal creations: a creamy wedge of quiche, laden with olives, zucchini and tomatoes, and a generous slice of tarte tropézienne, brioche filled with custard cream.

Indulge in fresh seafood

The provincial capital during the Roman Empire, modern-day Arles is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with its Roman-era wall, subterranean galleries, theater and amphitheater, which date back to the first century BC. The narrow streets reveal small shops selling lavender-scented soaps and creams, and linen shops with tablecloths and tea towels of red and yellow.

COASTAL EXCURSIONS

The last destination is Marseille, a formerly notorious Mediterranean port. First founded in 600 BC by the Greeks, this coastal city remains a meeting place for traders and travelers. The Vieux Port is populated with a steady stream of locals and visitors. The contemporary promenade is accented with modern sculptures, including Foster + Partners’ L'Ombrière, a polished steel canopy pavilion.

Marvel at the Vieux Port in Marseille

There are also boats offering day tours on the sea, dining options with shaded terraces for dinner and the Mucem: Musée des civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée, which showcases the history of the region through the remnants of ancient civilizations, stories and items found along its shores.

My group takes a tour bus to a lookout in Endoume, in the city’s seventh arrondissement, then down concrete steps to Vallon des Auffes, a fishing village where fishermen bring in their daily catch to the cafés. On this late autumn day, the temperature is in the high 20s, and the village’s piscine maritime is circled by swimsuit-clad locals relaxing in the sunshine and dipping into the salty waves.

Discover unique perspectives at the magnificent Mucem

The locals have a habit I want to adopt: indulging in their surroundings on a daily basis, whether on a walk in a garden, learning about an area’s history or sipping a fine vintage. The trip through Provence is rewarding to all of the senses.