Check in to Paradise

Sun-kissed beaches, crystal-clear waters, towering cliffs and mesmerizing seascapes await on this familyfriendly island.

by Jim Byers

I instantly fell in love with Maui and its inconceivable beauty. But beyond the green mountains cleaved by deep valleys, rich blue ocean and seemingly unending golden beaches, there’s so much to see and do. Whether you plan a special family hiking trip, a photo op by the waterfalls or a picnic in a stunningly picturesque location, it will be something to remember.

Kids can snorkel in gentle, warm waters, while teenagers ride zip lines through dense jungle. Families can travel along the slope of a volcano and take part in seaside hikes along its cliffs, or wander through a Japanese garden together and browse artisanal goods in wood-front shops, with the sound of ocean waves mere inches away.

Tour the extraordinary

There are plenty of places to simply fly to and flop, but Maui is a place that needs to be explored to be fully appreciated. Your travel advisor can help you discover worthwhile road trips that will impress the entire family, affordable things to do and where the locals go to turn your typical vacation into a memorable, immersive experience.

The most famous driving trip is the Road to Hana, which takes you on a winding route peppered with spectacular waterfalls, dramatic coastal views and black lava flows topped with plants and lush greenery. It’s a smooth ride most of the way. Still, there are hundreds of hairpin turns and dozens of stone bridges for roughly 52 miles, and it takes a little more than two hours. Plan for some stops to enjoy the impressive areas you’ll pass.

If you have young passengers who don’t like long car trips, stop at the Keanae Peninsula for some fresh pineapple before heading back. I’ll never forget the sight of my nephew biting into the sweet yellow fruit, the juice trickling down his chin onto his Hawaiian shirt, his smile as wide as the Pacific Ocean.

Off the beaten track

Just outside of Hana you’ll find a colorful, somewhat rickety roadside spot called Nahiku Marketplace with stores, a coffee shop and a worthwhile dining spot called Thai Food by Pranee. A little further north, Wai’anapanapa is a spectacular state park with rugged, dark cliffs ceaselessly pounded by waves, a small cave and a black sand beach—and a great spot for a family photo.

Though it doesn’t get nearly as much attention, the drive along the north coast of Maui is incredibly intriguing. Soon after leaving Kapalua, posh condos give way to rugged coastline, then beautiful, shaded valleys, iron-rich red rock cliffs and wideopen meadows of deep green grass waving in the wind. The roads cling to the side of cliffs, dipping and swirling for several miles.

The Road to Hana has waterfalls and thick jungle growth, but the north side of Maui has more dramatic ocean views and far fewer cars. Pull over and go for a walk near the Nakalele Blowhole, which shoots ocean water high into the air every few minutes. The waves can get quite large, so make sure the little ones keep their distance.

Water exploration

There are fabulous snorkeling spots all around the island that are appropriate for all ages. Several tour operators can take you to Molokini, a tiny island with amazing sea life, or along the coast to quiet bays filled with colorful fish, including the state fish humuhumunukunukuapuaa (reef triggerfish in boring English).

If you’d rather not burn through your budget, there are a few spots where you won’t pay a cent. Explore the waters at La Perouse Bayon Maui’s southeast shore or at Black Rock next to the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa. Kapalua Bay is another good option just a few feet from the shore, with brilliant yellow threadfin butterfly fish, gentle turtles and much more. Toddlers can safely splash in the water and play in the sand there, as there isn’t typically rough surf.

Humpback whales make their way south to Hawaii from Alaska every fall to frolic (and give birth) in the warm waters between Maui, Molokai and Lanai. You can watch from land, but you’re better off taking a group whale-watching tour out on the water.

Reach great heights

A helicopter tour over Maui to see the crater of the dormant volcano Haleakala or over to the towering sea cliffs of the nearby island of Molokai is another experience you won’t want to miss. The kids thought we were on the surface of Mars rather than in a tropical paradise as they gazed at the jungle-green Molokai from Haleakala’s 10,000-foot summit. If you’re traveling with older kids, you can rent bikes and enjoy the salty sea breeze on a self-guided ride from its peak, a journey of 26 miles, all downhill.

For the fun of it

A luau is fun, but it can be costly for a family. Instead, try one of the free shows on the island. The Napili Kai Beach Resort has a fun kids’ hula show on Tuesdays for its guests. The Lahaina Cannery Mall puts on a hula show every Sunday and offers complimentary lessons in lei-making and hula dancing.

Many hotels stage torch-lighting shows just before sunset, too. The most popular is at the Sheraton Maui Resort & Spa at Kaanapali, where a young man lights a series of torches on a large stone formation called Black Rock, tosses his flower lei in the water, and then does a swan dive into the surf.

Maui’s popular food trucks are another great way to save on an island vacation. You’ll find a large selection just outside the airport in Kahului, as well as Kihei, Lahaina and north Kaanapali, many of which offer kid-friendly options (the five-cheese macaroni at Sol Brothers is always a crowd-pleaser).

Give a little, get a little

Some hotels on Maui take part in the Malama Hawaii Program, which offers guests incentives in exchange for a couple hours of volunteer work. Inspired by the Hawaiian word malama, which means to take care or give back, it’s meant to encourage travelers to go beyond and learn about the island’s deep-rooted culture.

At The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, guests receive a nightly $20 resort credit when participating in a self-directed beach cleanup. A DIY cleanup kit is y will y provided on arrival, and it’s a great way to make a positive impact. They also offer guests free ukulele and leimaking lessons. The hotel is home to Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment program that teaches kids and adults about conservation and protecting the world’s oceans. Jean-Michel Cousteau told me he especially loves talking to children about the environment. “Kids are like sponges,” he says. “They’re amazing. They educate their parents. I come here and I see them picking up garbage every day. They get it.”

The Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea in partnership with Lahaina Restoration Foundation invites you to learn about and document historic artifacts from all eras of Maui’s past. In exchange for participating, you’ll receive a $250 resort credit and a gift certificate for a one-night accommodation in an ocean-view room for your next stay.

The island experience

There’s a saying in Hawaii, Maui na ka oi, or “Maui is the best.” I would never attempt to tell anyone which Hawaiian island is best, but I can say I’ve pocketed a lifetime of family memories on Maui.

On my first trip, I watched my sister flirt with local Hawaiian boys, who impressed us by shimmying up coconut trees at Napili Beach. Later, my wife and I vacationed there with our three kids and rented units at a family-friendly condo complex called Kahana Sunset. My parents, perched on their balcony high above the bay, would stand on the deck and toss a football down to my kids.

Many years later, our oldest son went for a hike on the coast near Kapalua and asked his girlfriend to marry him. We hope to take their daughter and our grandchildren there soon.