7 minute read
A perfect Day in Quebec City
from Range - Volume 6
by Ensemble
Go beyond the ramparts to discover the vibrant dining scene and modern cultural attractions that only enhance Quebec City’s old-world ambiance.
By Jessica Huras
My first trip to Quebec City, about a decade ago, focused on Old Quebec: a UNESCO World Heritage Site founded in 1608, and the only walled city in North America. While you can easily build an itinerary around that historic district’s charms — ornate churches, narrow cobblestone streets and centuries-old fortifications made of heavy stone — my latest visit shows me that the city’s real allure is the depth of its rich history paired with its dynamic, trend-setting present. You can pop into a cozy restaurant for Quebecois staples like tourtière and pouding chômeur or walk just a few blocks farther to discover the locally driven fare being pioneered by boundary-pushing chefs.
Although the city is often noted for offering a taste of Europe in North America, I quickly realize that Quebec’s capital is distinctly its own. The city’s reverence for its francophone and Indigenous heritage is complemented by a welcoming joie de vivre and the exuberance of year-round festivities, from the Winter Carnival’s celebration of snow to the Festival d’été de Québec every summer.
Morning
My day kicks off at Bistro L’Orygine in Old Quebec, where the vibes are serene and the playful cuisine highlights the passion for homegrown ingredients that defines the city’s restaurant scene. First comes an amuse-bouche of fingerling potato sprinkled with diced jalapeño, followed by halibut fritters served over swirls of grilled pepper hummus. For the main, I can’t resist a fancied-up take on a croque monsieur with potato focaccia and veal jus béchamel sauce.
After my multicourse brunch, an invigorating walk is the best way to reach my next stop. En route, I admire Notre-Dame-de Québec Basilica-Cathedral in the morning sunlight. While its stone exterior may not reflect the grandeur of the gold leaf within, it is the city’s enduring guardian, having withstood war and multiple fires in its nearly 400-year history.
It’s 15 minutes by foot to Pôle culturel du Monastère des Ursulines, where a Roman Catholic religious order established North America’s first school for young girls. Set within the grounds of the Ursulines’ 17th-century monastery, this museum highlights the school’s progressive curriculum through three floors of exhibits, including displays dedicated to science and music. I peer into glass-enclosed cases at tools used for teaching chemistry and physics in the 19th century — subjects girls of that time were not often encouraged to pursue. Don’t miss the adjacent chapel, home to some of the finest surviving wood carvings from the New France era, dating back to the early 1700s.
I made sure to pop my swimwear and flip-flops in my bag for my next destination: Station de la Plage, a new section of Promenade Samuel-De Champlain park that runs along the St. Lawrence River. With a sandy, man-made beach and a gigantic infinity pool overlooking the river, Station de la Plage feels more like a cool beach club than a public pool. Don’t let its chic looks fool you though — this is no members-only joint. Through spring and summer, you’ll see Quebecers of all stripes laying out beach towels to claim their patch of soft sand.
Afternoon
Planning for the busy lunch rush, I’ve already booked a midday table at Le Clan, a popular fine-dining restaurant led by chef Stéphane Modat, who previously ran the kitchen at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Modat works closely with local producers to spotlight ingredients raised and grown in Quebec, with each item on the menu including the precise geographic coordinates from where it was sourced. Modat’s passion for hunting and fishing informs an always-changing selection of dishes, such as wild hare with black trumpet mushrooms.
My exploration of the city’s food and drink scene doesn’t end there: Next up is a guided brewery hop with Broue-Tours. The three-hour adventure around hip Saint Roch, the heart of Quebec City’s craft beer scene, delves into the neighborhood’s history and culture through visits to a trio of breweries. Microbrewery La Barberie quickly wins me over with its picturesque terrace shaded by mature trees and funky wild ale made with riesling grapes. First settled in the 1600s, the neighborhood owes its name to the patron saint of dogs and bachelors — both of which you’re likely to encounter in the area today (sometimes even together).
It’s worth sticking around to see more of Saint-Roch, a former working-class district that’s now a hub of culture, tech, nightlife and fashion. One of its main strips, Rue Saint-Joseph, is pedestrian-only on summer weekends, making for easy strolling. I swing by long-running chocolate-maker Champagne Chocolatier for some souvenir chocolate-covered sponge toffee before flipping through vintage records at Le Knock-Out! and perusing the retro and vintage furniture collection at Déjà Vu.
If you’re more of a spa-goer than a shopper, head to nearby Le Monastère des Augustines for some pre-dinner pampering. A hotel and wellness retreat set in a former 17th-century monastery and hospital, it offers day passes that include a gentle yoga class, access to the monastery museum, which chronicles the site’s history as a place for healing, and a walking tour of the property.
Evening
I’ve been nibbling all day, but that doesn’t dissuade me from taking on another multicourse meal at Le 101 Restaurant de quartier. Although “101” is a nod to the restaurant’s street number, it could just as easily reflect chef-owner Charles Gignac’s goal of introducing diners to traditional French cooking in an approachable way. With thoughtful plating and quality ingredients, dishes like foie gras with mulled wine feel anything but textbook.
Dishes can be ordered à la carte, but the three-course tasting menu paired with low-intervention wines from primarily French vineyards is a fine reward for all the steps I’ve put in.
After dinner, I take a cab to Wendake, a 15-minute drive outside the city, to see Onhwa’ Lumina, an immersive multimedia experience that tells the story of the Huron-Wendat people. Give yourself anhour to traverse this illuminated, afterdark attraction, which stretches for three-quarters of a mile through the SaintRémy wooded area. The rituals, myths and traditions of Huron-Wendat culture are explored through seven zones featuring light and sound displays, along with video projections.
Back in the city, I cap off my evening in the speakeasy-like surroundings of bar jjacques. The bar’s blink-and-you’llmiss-it entrance opens up into an intimate space decked out with velvet banquettes and privacy curtains. After browsing the extensive cocktail menu, I settle on the zingy Bombardier, featuring a mezcal and silver tequila base blended with coconut oil, lime and ginger. It’s from a section of the menu featuring an aviation theme — a fitting drink to toast adieu to Quebec City before my flight home.
WHERE TO STAY
FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC
Situated on Cap Diamant, overlooking Old Quebec and the St. Lawrence River, this 19th-century hotel is as much a landmark as it is luxury lodging. The acclaimed Champlain Restaurant (first opened in 1893), 610 elegant guest rooms and ornately decorated lobby do justice to its iconic status.
Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.
