Port of Call - Athens

More than just a jumping-off point for Mykonos and Santorini, the Greek capital deserves a few days of discovery pre- or post-cruise.

By Brett Walther

Athens is hallowed ground for history buffs, but you don’t have to be a classicalstudies major to feel its pull. For more than 3,000 years, philosophers, artists and architects have been drawn to the sacred rock at its center, the Acropolis, resulting in a city that, from a traveler’s perspective, is surprisingly compact and easily walkable. It helps that its treasure trove of archeological gems are linked by a series of pedestrian walkways, including the magnificent Dionysiou Areopagitou, allowing you to take in everything from Hadrian’s Arch to the Ancient Agora on foot, and at your own pace. It’s a route that skirts the southern slopes of the Acropolis, where the city’s most recognizable landmark, the Parthenon, continually draws the eye skyward — a masterpiece of classical architecture that’s as awe-inspiring as its reputation suggests.

FAST FACTS

Currency: Euro

Language: Greek

Tipping: Tip 10%–15% for good service.

HISTORY

438 BC

The Parthenon, commissioned by Athenian leader Pericles, is completed. This is considered the Golden Age of Athens.

1834

Following the Greek War of Independence, which brings an end to 400 years of Ottoman occupation, Athens is officially declared capital of the independent Greek state.

1896

Athens hosts the first modern Olympic Games at the Panathenaic Stadium — the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble.

EVERY SUNDAY

Changing of the Guard

Although you can catch an hourly changing of the guard at the Hellenic Parliament Monday through Saturday, the impressive full ceremony is reserved for Sundays at 11 a.m. This is when members of the Evzones — the Greek Presidential Guard — lay fresh wreaths at Syntagma Square’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Impeccable military precision aside, it’s the elite soldiers’ traditional dress that provides the most striking spectacle.

IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP…

Sail the Saronic Gulf

For a Greek island getaway that’s doable in a day, take the ferry to Aegina. The nearest of the Saronic Gulf islands, its whitewashed houses and luminous blue-green waters channel the charms of the Cyclades. Don’t leave without a bag of Aegina pistachios; a rare variety grown exclusively on the island, they’re widely regarded as the world’s best.

DID YOU KNOW?

Last year, the Greek government imposed a visitor cap at the Acropolis, restricting daily admission to 20,000, with hourly limits in place. Book your timed-entry ticket in advance to avoid disappointment.

EAT THIS

Koulouri

Athens’ answer to the bagel, these sesame-covered bread rings are crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. And much like a bagel, they come in sweet and savory varieties, including raisin, sun-dried tomato and — this is Greece, after all — black olive.

Meze

At least one of your meals should be at a mezedopoleio, a restaurant serving traditional Greek meze (tapas) dishes.

Order a succession of the small, shareable plates — ensure kolokithokeftedes (zucchini fritters) make the cut — and wash it all down with a pint of Mythos.

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Athens and Epidaurus Festival

What could be better than after-hours access to an 1,800-year-old theater? Throw in a live performance of a Puccini opera, and you’ll understand the appeal of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival. From June to August, the event stages world-class musical productions in ancient sites around the city, including the atmospheric Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Ouzo

If you’ve only ever slugged it back as an illadvised shot, you haven’t really experienced Greece’s national drink. Locals dilute this aniseflavored liquor with ice water. Don’t be put off by the resulting cloudiness: It’s a natural reaction between the water and oils in the anise.

IF YOU WANT TO COOL OFF…

Make it a Museum Day

Enjoy world-class collections — and a welcome hit of air-conditioning — at Athens’ must-see museums.

Acropolis Museum

Before you scale the Acropolis, browse 4,000 artifacts found on its slopes — the context they provide makes for a more meaningful experience.

Museum of Cycladic Art

Get your fill of neolithic figurines, Hellenistic coins and classical vases at this small but significant museum in the ritzy Kolonaki quarter.

National Archaeological Museum

Considered one of the world’s greatest archeology collections, this museum tells the story of ancient Greece.

LOCAL LINGO

Volta

Cap off a busy day of sightseeing with the Greek tradition of volta — a gentle stroll at sundown. The marblepaved streets of the Plaka district provide the perfect setting for this relaxing ritual.

CAN ’ T MISS

Cape Sounion

It might seem strange to venture an hour outside of Athens to see yet more ancient ruins, but Cape Sounion is worth adding to your itinerary. Perched high on its rugged clifftop is the Temple of Poseidon, one of Greece’s most dramatic monuments, especially if you stick around for sunset: The soul-stirring skies easily rival those found on the Greek islands. You’ll take it all in on a private tour with Greece a la Carte, which handles transportation from the capital along the scenic coastal route known as the Athens Riviera.

INSIDER TIP

Athens, Piraeus, is seven miles from the city center, but the metro provides a direct link that’s often faster than car service.

WHERE TO STAY

The Dolli at Acropolis

Built in 1925, this property was originally the mansion of a Greek shipping magnate. Opening its doors last year as an ultra-chic boutique hotel, the Dolli’s 46 sundrenched bedrooms, pieds-à-terre and apartments retain the feel of an elegant private home, perfectly situated for exploring Plaka. Lose the crowds — but not the views of the Acropolis — on the panoramic rooftop, where you’ll find a breathtaking infinity pool.

Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.