Back to Nature in Alaska

By Diane Tierney

How an Alaskan cruise helped open my eyes about the devastating impact of climate change.

Alaska is a ruggedly handsome destination with majestic mountains, glistening glaciers, lush green forests, and flamboyant wildlife that jumps into action to steal the show when it’s least expected.

While my first visit to Alaska about 15 years ago with Princess Cruises was fascinating, it was my second visit in 2019 with Cunard on the newly renovated Queen Elizabeth ship that really opened my eyes to environmental issues the state faces.

What I saw on TV or read about in the news doesn’t compare to what being there in real life was like – while hiking, kayaking, dogsledding, flight-seeing and other ways to explore. Many of Alaska’s glaciers, which cover about five per cent of the state, have experienced obvious melting.

HUBBARD GLACIER CALVES INTO DISENCHANTMENT BAY

Between 2007 and 2015, the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau has retreated by about 550 metres. I witnessed the melting in action firsthand at the Hubbard Glacier, 320 kilometres north of Juneau. I didn’t have to wait long on the top deck before a three-storey-high wall of turquoise ice crashed with thundering drama. The roar and splash added a whole new 10-kilometre-long level to the experience.

Many more chunks of ice along the long wall calved and floated toward us as icebergs. When I learned that glacial melting is a major threat that can cause a rise in sea level and flooding, I could easily see how the volume adds up to billions of gallons quickly. Alaska is the fastest-warming state in the U.S. and temperatures have reached record high levels.

HARBOUR SEALS RESTING ON ICE

As strong as Alaska appears to be, it’s clear that its natural beauty needs preservation. A cruise offers a way to see the best of the region, while learning about the threats it faces. For instance, while enjoying a hot toddy on my balcony and admiring the scenery, an ice floe with an adorable sea otter floated past, basking in the sunshine. It was delightful to see this lovely creature in such a cute, comical pose, but it did make me worry about the wildlife. Cruising Alaska also educates you about the fate of whales, bears, caribou, bald eagles, fish, sea otters and more.

WHALE WATCHING IN JUNEAU

On a whale watching tour, our boat sailed near massive whales rising and diving just a few hundred metres away from us. They waved their tails just long enough for us to capture the action on camera. They certainly weren’t afraid of us and I’m glad tour boat traffic is controlled, keeping it to a minimum. We also passed Admiralty Island, near Juneau, where an estimated 1,600 bears live, ranging in size from 180 to 450 kilos. While we watched, a few of these enormous creatures sauntered slowly along on the beach and paddled in the water.

DRAMATIC FALL COLOURS

A helicopter flight is an exciting way to see much of the spectacular scenery and wildlife all in a single tour. We flew high over snow-capped mountains, skimmed the treetops, and swooped low into the valleys. Below, a mother bear and her cub briefly glanced up at our chopper as if we were just a giant red dragonfly in the sky.

We also flew over Icy Strait to see three more whales, calmly swimming in perfect unison just below the surface. Their size, even from above, is impressive. Bold bald eagles joined us in the air and dive-bombed for food, thanks to their incredible vision. They can fly at speeds of 300 kilometres per hour and can see something as small as a rabbit from more than a kilometre away. Another eagle showed off its fascinating up-and-down dance in the sky to mark its territory.

EXPERIENCE ALASKA FROM THE AIR

Back on land, we hiked through the dense woods with a guide breathing in the fresh aroma of pine to reach our picnic spot beside a creek. As we ate near the bonfire, we learned how climate change will negatively impact salmon as water temperatures and sea volumes rise. Dogsledding on a glacier is another popular tour although we didn’t take part due to the weather. It got me thinking about what would happen if more snow melts. Because of Alaska’s difficult terrain, sleds and snowmobiles are important modes of transportation for keeping communities connected.

In the charming towns along my journey, it’s difficult to resist watching the fun lumberjack shows, popping into the saloons for a pint, and poking around the shops for art, clothing, jewellery and souvenirs. But I think it’s especially important to tour local visitor centres to learn more about the history, culture and environment. For example, some have powerful time-lapse videos showing how glaciers have diminished over the past decade – something which stirs up a range of emotions, from sadness to frustration. Guides are well prepared for these reactions and ready to answer questions.

GRIZZLY BEAR CUBS PLAYING ON ADMIRALTY ISLAND

© STATE OF ALASKA / REINHARD PANTKE

Back onboard the Queen Elizabeth, I attended presentations hosted by the cruise line’s experts who can also explain the effects of climate change in detail, including internationally recognized explorers such as Peter Hillary, the son of Sir Edmund Hillary, who shared his inspiring wilderness adventures. Seeing Alaska by cruise ship with more than 2,000 people had me questioning my travel choice. I wondered whether I was contributing to the problem somehow. Or was I helping by becoming better educated so I could share my knowledge and experience with others? I believe it’s the latter.

I was surprised when I learned the facts. Cruise ships comprise less than one per cent of the global maritime community and the cruise industry has invested more than $22 billion in new technologies and cleaner fuels for ships to reduce air emissions and protect the environment. Companies have committed to reducing the rate of carbon emissions by 40 per cent by 2030 from 2008 levels.

I suggest you see Alaska soon so you, too, can be inspired to help preserve this fabulous final frontier in your own personal way. Take a cruise and book as many shore excursions as you can to enjoy it from all angles — sea, land and air — and you’ll witness both the stunning beauty of Alaska and be guided by experts who are not just educated in climate change, but live and breathe it in Juneau, Sitka, Skagway, Haines, Icy Strait and Ketchikan.

Our Experts Suggest…

Many options allow travellers to combine the luxuries of a hotel with the adventure of a trip through America’s most spectacular wilderness. Cruise ships range in size and luxury, from megaliners to small ships and their accommodations are just as diverse. Options for cruising amenities range from casual to formal, it just depends on the experience you are looking for on your next Alaska getaway. Ask you travel advisor for personalized recommendations based on your needs.