SAVORING PALATE PLEASERS IN COSTA RICA

BY RUKSANA HUSSAIN

Homemade packets of sweet and savory treats line the glass display at Soda La Negrita, a no-frills, family-style eatery serving local fare. A drenched touchdown in Costa Rica warranted a piping hot cup of coffee and a warm meal at the roadside spot, perched on a bend along the way to La Fortuna from San Jose. My Spanish is restricted to “si” and “no,” so I point to the first thing listed under the house specials on the menu – chorreada dulce con natilla. A few sizzles emanate from the kitchen and in seconds, a steaming hot yellow pancake made from sweet corn is in front of me, accompanied by local sour cream. A bite and a sip, and I know this sumptuous welcome sets the tone for my visit to La Fortuna.

Located in the agricultural province of Alajuela in central Costa Rica, La Fortuna is a small town with a big reputation. It is the gateway to the beautiful Arenal Volcano National Park and mineral-rich thermal hot springs flowing through the Tabacon River – a welcome respite any time of year. The elevation and climate here is well-suited for bountiful harvests, which you indulge in when feasting on traditional cuisine in the area.

CHORREADA DULCE CON NATILLA

© RUKSANA HUSSAIN

The opportunity to dive into the all-encompassing casado presented itself within minutes of my mid-day arrival at my resort. The hearty meal is a fond staple starring rice, beans, protein, and vegetables for a plate bursting with wholesome, locally sourced ingredients. Some salad, mashed yucca, fried plantains, and tortillas complete my enticing lunch spread.

With native American, African, Spanish and other influences, Costa Rican cuisine incorporates all of those flavors in its dishes almost always made from scratch, using fresh, locally grown produce to create nutritionally well-rounded meals. While seafood ceviche is the norm, I was pleasantly surprised to find equally tangy vegetarian ceviche options served as boquitas – appetizer-style small bites ahead of the entrée. Other options included yucca fries, empanadas and Tico-style tacos.

GUARO SOUR

Guaro, a liquor made from distilled sugarcane juice, is the suggested libation to accompany a meal. I enjoy it most in its mixed drink form as a guaro sour in the evenings, alternating it with daytime non-alcoholic drinks such as batidos, made from fresh fruit and milk or water. These dishes add to my culinary dictionary – all highlights, of course, as my taste buds begin to appreciate many new flavors.

TRES LECHES IN HANDMADE TULIPA

To enjoy other highlights of the region and to burn off some calories, a horseback ride to the top for prized views of Arenal volcano, the most active of all volcanos in the country, and ziplining across the green blankets of La Fortuna’s forests are must-do activities. I also participated in an adrenaline-inducing whitewater river rafting experience, another must-try in these parts and well worth the effort. I followed it up with an adventure of another kind – a night-time guided jungle tour to observe local flora and fauna in its after-dark glory.

TABACON HOT SPRINGS

© RUKSANA HUSSAIN

Rest assured, a splash in the hot springs was what I was focused on heading to Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa for that Costa Rican brand of relaxation I’d heard so much about. Tabacon’s selling point is its proximity to the Arenal Volcano, offering the largest and only completely natural network of thermal mineral springs fed by the Tabacon River. They are naturally heated by the magma found inside the volcano.

An outdoor bungalow dining experience provides another avenue to take in the natural beauty of La Fortuna as I dig into an exclusive chef’s tasting menu that exploits the locally sourced vegetables, fruits and edible flowers to full effect. For the grand finale, a tres leches dessert and fresh fruit salad compete for my attention. But never one to discriminate when it comes to a sweet ending, I opt for both, as is the encouraged behavior when deriving maximum pleasure from a trip to Costa Rica. A few days reveling in gastronomic adventures of a similar caliber and I count myself truly fortunate to savor the natural bounty of these green expanses. On the last day of my visit to La Fortuna, I stop by the soda eagerly anticipating one more challenge to my palate. I am pleased to report a bag of cajetas, coconut fudge macarons with condensed milk, and agua dulce, a drink made with raw cane sugar dissolved in hot water, presented worthy memories for the trip back home.

TYPICAL CASADO FOR LUNCH

© RUKSANA HUSSAIN