JEWELLERY AND I MAGAZINE SUMMER ‘14 ISSUE 1
jai
“People will stare. Make it worth their while.� - Harry Winston
Front cover photographed by Elianna Panayiotou. Necklace from Topshop.
JAI THE FIRST ISSUE
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WHat’s inside 3 Editor’s letter 4 Start the summer off with Zara 6 Spring/ Summer trends 17 Designer profiles part I 18 Hue Tawn Chan 30 Only Child London 42 Street style 45 Hirst Antiques 46 What does a piece of your jewellery mean to you? 50 A bright summerwith Topshop 57 Designer profiles part II 58 Maria Piana 68 Viola Yoo 72 Sneak peek in to next season
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JAI SUMMER ‘14... The beginning Hi all, and welcome to JAI magazine! This is the first issue, and I am so happy to be launching this magazine. Firstly, thank you for picking it up and reading, your interest in us means we are able to have a magazine in the first place. So what’s the idea behind this magazine you might wonder. Well, my passion behind making this magazine is my admiration for jewellery. I have always had an interest in fashion and clothing, but for me jewellery has always stood out. I found myself more drawn towards beautiful pieces of jewellery than beautiful clothes. So, after visiting my local shop to buy some magazines, and seeing some jewellery craft magazines, it suddenly occured to me; there are no fashionable jewellery magazines. I don’t know why it has taken me this long to realise, but as soon as I did, I was determined to try and find one here. After searching I wasn’t able to find one, so I thought right, I need to make one myself then. I find it shocking how there are multiple fashion magazines on the market but none specifically aimed at jewellery. In a time where the jewellery market is growing at a vast amount, especially costume jewellery, I believe this is relevant to be enjoyed by the people who enjoy jewellery.
or costume jewellery for a specific outfit. Some have been given to me as presents and others passed down to me by family members. All of these differ from one another but I cherish them and keep them for a long time. That’s the good thing about jewellery, unlike fashion it always stays in style. You can wear the same piece many times with a different outfit. Going back to the magazine, what better place to start than with a summer issue? Jewellery at all times of year is great, but there’s something about summer where people let their boundaries down and are more free with what they wear, and this is what I adore. The jewellery tends to be bigger than the autumn/winter season and definitely more colourful, and who doesn’t love a bit of colour to brighten things up. In this issue we will guide you through the top trends of the season and show you where you can buy these on the high street. We hope you enjoy the magazine and thank you for being a part of this journey with us. Elianna Panayiotou, Editor
I’ve been collecting jewellery for many years, and each piece to me now tells a story. Some I have bought for myself, either saving up and buying a special piece,
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Start the summer off with... ZARA Zara have some beautiful and striking costume jewellery which would be perfect for the season. Wear them with a plain outfit to be the statement piece, or if you’re feeling more risky, team with patterns and colour to create a strong, bold look. It’s the summer after all so why not go all out!
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£9.99
£15.99
£15.99
£12.99
Images from Zara.com
£19.99
£29.99
£19.99
£29.99
£29.99
£19.99
Images from Zara.com
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Spring / Summer TRENDS
All the looks you need to know for this summer, and where to buy our favourites...
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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
LANVIN
CHAINS
VALENTINO
ALDO £30
River Island £35
REBECCA MINKOFF
H&M £9.99
Gogo Philip £16.50 Miss Selfridge £7.50
This page and opposite: Catwalk images from WGSN. Product imgaes from the brand’s websites. Flower image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
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MARNI
MATTHEW WIL
LIAMSON
Boohoo £8
Bon Bon Bijou £40
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
MARA HOFFMAN
PENDANT NECKLACE
Urbiana £20
Warehouse £16
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This page and opposite: Catwalk images from WGSN. Product imgaes from the brand’s websites. Flower image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
ASHISH
CHANEL
River Island £12
BANGLES
Cath Kidston £8
Ottoman Hands £38
BADGLEY MISCHKA
ED2 DSQUAR
Nali £12
Lipsy £14
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Rachel Roy £28
UNIQUE
HOOP EARRINGS
PPQ
Cheap Monday £15
Whistles £30 Limited Edition £6
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
DAKS
ASOS £6
French Connection £15
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This page and opposite: Catwalk images from WGSN. Product imgaes from the brand’s websites. Flower image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
FENDI
NINA RICCI
Oasis £10
ASOS £9
Coast £20
GIORGIO ARMANI
PRABAL GURUNG
Miss Selfridge £7.50
COCKTAIL RING
Cheap Monday £15
Orelia £20
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MARA HOFFMAN
Designsix £15
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
CUFFS
H&M £9.99
Ottoman Hands £66
Ashiana £18
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This page and opposite: Catwalk images from WGSN. Product imgaes from the brand’s websites. Flower image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
HOLLY FULTON
Topshop £16.50
DOLCE & GABBANA
Warehouse £14 Topshop £14.50
OSCAR DE
LA RENTA
DROP EARRINGS
Mango £24.99
TANYA TAYLOR
MSGM
Bershka £9.99
Love Rocks £35
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ROBERTO CAVALLI
Mango £14.99
AIGNER
Miss Selfridge £16.50 ANNA SUI
LONG-LENGTH NECKLACE
E DE LA R OSCAR
NTA
Topshop Premium £65
River Island £15 16
This page and opposite: Catwalk images from WGSN. Product imgaes from the brand’s websites. Flower image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
KENZO ZIMMERMA NN
ASOS £7.50
Limited Edition £12
CÉLINE
CHANEL
Bon Bon Bijou £15
CHOKERS
Forever 21 £8.90
Topshop £18.50
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Love Rocks £35
ASOS £8 18
Product images from brand’s websites
Topshop £8.50 each
Designsix £8 Photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
designer profiles part I In this section, we speak to three jewellery designers, and find out about their collections, inspirations and much more...
Butterfly image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
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HUE TAWN CHAN Hue Tawn Chan is a London based jewellery designer who graduated from London College of Fashion last year with a degree in jewellery design. Her hand made collection features 3-dimensional easy to wear, unique statement jewellery; including bangles, rings, nipple clips and brooch pins. We spoke to Hue to find out more... Your jewellery is eye catching and it is clear that you have a great skill. Can you explain to us the design and making process of your jewellery? My inspiration comes from the complexity and intricacy of knots, Art Nouveau and the design of lines. My design process usually consists of looking at research and making huge amounts of drawings and samples from various materials. For me, I’m more of a hands-on person, so I might do a quick sketch to figure out a basic idea, and then start turning it into a sample. As I believe (and prefer) jewellery as a 3-D object, it’s much easier to work around the body. My beginning samples are made of paper and it just evolves from there. After many testing, I loved the idea of using brass strips, the hardness and structure of the metal to create fluid, soft flowing lines/designs, which I feel really adds contrast and uniqueness to my work. My techniques include, rolling a strip of brass to the correct thickness, constant annealing and forming the strip around ring mandrels to achieve the shape I am pleased with. After the shape is formed, the pieces are polished by myself and then silver plated, leaving a futuristic style, shiny silver surface. What are you working on at the moment with your designing? How will the next collection differ from this one? I am currently interning with a jewellery designer called Katie Rowland, just trying to get an insight of high end luxury jewellery and working with semi precious stones, so lots to learn! On the side, I have designed a capsule collection for a hair accessory brand called Ruby and Frost, which should be released soon! The collection still features the signature style of twisted metal strips, however it’s on a much smaller scale and more commercial, in order to target a wider audience compared to the large fashion rings from previous collections. What problems have you faced as an up & coming designer? Finding your own signature style and figuring out a technique to make the designs. Trying to improve brand awareness, it is so hard to start up your own brand and become successful, so I’m just trying to get more experience right now and just going with the flow. What is your best tip when it comes to buying jewellery and wearing it? For me, I try to choose designs that are different but easy to wear and will be in fashion for a couple of seasons, for example, Katie Rowland stud earrings, made in rose gold with cute stones and also studs will never go out of fashion, a good investment buy! I also look for the materials it is made in, obviously the more precious the materials the more expensive it will be, however sometimes for me, I feel it’s worth spending that extra little bit as I think the jewellery will last longer. What does jewellery mean to you? I see jewellery as a treasured object and I believe jewellery is just as important as the clothes in an outfit. I think many people usually see jewellery as the last thing they think about when putting an outfit together, I would like people to put jewellery first in their mind and find clothes to match the item instead!
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All photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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ONLY CHILD Only Child London are a fun and energetic jewellery brand. They launched in 2013, and since this time have gained a following including celebrities such as Cara Delevingne and Rita Ora. We spoke to the owner and designer Kelly Jackson to discover more about her successful label. For those who don’t know about Only Child, how would you describe your brand? Only Child is a Hackney based design brand that produces unique handmade cosmically enhanced jewellery! How and when did you first realise you wanted to become a jewellery designer? I always knew I wanted to do something creative, I’ve always been good at drawing and that eventually lead me to doing a Fine Art degree at Chelsea College of Art. While I was there I was also working at Alexander McQueen doing textile print designs by hand, I sat next to the people who were designing accessories and then pretty much knew that’s what I wanted to do so I went and got some experience working for other jewellery designers. Only Child has been a great success since the launch, which was only in February of last year. Why do you think it has had this response? I think it’s a combination of a few things really...I think being bold and not afraid to ask for what you want can sometimes get you a long way but also thinking big and working long and hard! There have been a few really cool things that have popped up over the last year that have helped things along as well like celebrities being interested in the brand and getting some good press early on was great too. The jewellery you design seems to have a sense of the supernatural. Where do you usually find your inspiration for your collections? Yeah I’ve always had a fascination with the unknown, mysterious, unexplained etc. I definitely think that the sort of imagery that the supernatural/ extraterrestrial is associated with is apparent in my designs. I get inspired by reading about things I don’t already know about and seeing things I’ve never seen before. What’s the most challenging part of your job and why? The most challenging part of my job is the continuous multi-tasking but that’s also why I love it, sometimes I feel like I’m doing 5 jobs at the same time but in general I tend to get bored easily and it’s probably what keeps me going too! What is your favourite piece you have made? I love the crystal pieces, they’re really unusual and all have really intense colours in them, I think they’re definitely at the core of the brands aesthetic. What’s next for Only Child? Where do you aspire to be in the near future? I’ve got a few things up my sleeve that I want to see come to life before the end of the year, I’d really like to design some other accessories and have a few things in mind! the brand is evolving and it’d be great to expand further and extend our reach further internationally. What advice would you give someone hoping to become a jewellery designer? I’d say get as much experience as you can, be bold and have faith in what you design. 32
Inside the studio
Images by Elianna Panayiotou
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All photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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street
style
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JAI hits the streets of London to find out what jewellery people are wearing... Photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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Jewellery Hotspot: Hirst Antiques When trying to find unique and collectable jewellery, Hirst Antiques is a must to visit. They have the largest collection of vintage costume jewellery in the UK. You can find luxury designers such as vintage Chanel, YSL, Valentino and more. They are classic, timeless pieces. You will find any jewellery type from rings to brooches. There Notting Hill shop is divided in to themes such as Egypt, Britain and also colours. They have a range of Emeralds, Sapphires, Rubies... Anything you want to find, you will be able to in this cute shop. It is any jewellery lovers dream to be surrounded by stunning pieces and to have so much variety and choice. if you haven’t already gone, do go and visit them at 59 Pembridge Road, W11 3HG, London.
Images from Hirst Antique’s Facebook Page
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What does a piece of your jewellery mean to you? Sometimes people have jewellery which means a great deal to them and tells a story. If this isn’t a piece of jewellery I’m sure most of us have an item or object that we love and always want to keep no matter what. We spoke to our editor to find out her story behind the jewellery she values the most, and why this holds a special place in her heart...
Written by Elianna Panayiotou
“When you turn 18 you will get some too”. These were the words my grandmother said to me as I watched in awe as she presented a box of her jewellery to my sister on her 18th birthday. This was now a tradition in our family. When each female family member reached this age, they would receive a collection of her old jewellery; not because she disliked it or didn’t wear it, but because it is a gift that symbolises infinite sentimentality and beauty to the following generations. She had seven female grandchildren (a family dominated by men), yet she always carefully and thoughtfully selected what she considered to be our individual preferences. And she always got it right. Whenever my father considered buying my mother jewellery as a birthday, anniversary or Christmas gift he would always ask his mother, my grandmother, for advice. She just had a good eye and the natural ability to know what pieces suited; it was partly thanks to her influence that my mum has received some beautiful jewellery over the years. I think my mother knows my father didn’t choose them, but she has never said anything so that he feels better about it. My mother owns a pair of opal earrings with a matching ring that I keep ‘borrowing’ (I think she’s given up asking for them back now). My mum prefers to wear this jewellery on special occasions, whereas I prefer it for everyday wear.
To me, it seems wasted just sitting in a jewellery box. It’s there to be relished and appreciated. So my 18th birthday was approaching, and I was eager and excited to see what jewellery I would receive. I would consider myself a very emotional and sentimental person, therefore moments like this mean a lot to me. In my eyes, gifts like these exceed any value money can buy; their value is personal, limitless, timeless and everlasting. These gifts cannot be beaten. My grandmother is usually in Cyprus on my birthday, so I visited her a few weeks before. My grandparents owned a house in Cyprus, so they would split the year living between here and there. They would go every year around Easter, as this is a particularly celebrated time of year full of celebrations and festivities. Cyprus is too hot for them in the summer, so they would usually return around the end of May.
“She just had a good eye and the natural ability to know what suited...”
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After arriving at my grandmother’s house, she made me sit down so she could show me a little black box. She opened it and took out every piece inside to show me what she was giving me. The expression on her face was priceless; I could tell how much she was enjoying this. There were three items jewellery that immediately caught my eye. The first piece was a thin, gold chain necklace surrounded with pearls;
the second piece was a gold ring with a red stone and an opal stone in the middle. The last piece, and also my favourite, was another gold ring with red stones that formed a flower. Both rings fit me perfectly. The memories of this day will remain with me forever. I believe a special connection was established between us, and this bond can never be lost or forgotten. If I have children, I will also pass the jewellery onto them, or even their children. I believe that it’s important to keep certain things in a family. Jewellery as old and as precious as the those I received from my grandmother is an example of this, as you can imagine the memories and stories that each piece holds. In my case, the stories behind the jewellery have been lost and I’m upset and frustrated that I have forgotten my grandmother’s explanation behind each piece. This was four years ago now, and I still wish to this day that I had written them down. Unfortunately, my grandmother is no longer with us. As a reminder of her, I wear the pieces of her jewellery to remember and recreate the ‘pieces’ of her, her life and her memory. On a visual level, my grandmother’s jewellery represents nothing but a material item, however for me, on a personal level; it is a representation of her and portrays her naturally fashionable style with accessories. I will always remember the statement pieces she wore, which she would imaginatively match with her outfits. While my grandmother was ill, I noticed that my cousins would be wearing beautiful pieces of jewellery. After engaging in conversation about their jewellery, I soon discovered it was no coincidence that the pieces were so stunning; they had all been gifts from my grandmother. At a time like this we never wanted to leave her, Photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
but when we were forced to, at least we were comforted with that piece of our grandmother that was constantly with us. I love how jewellery has this ability to create a connection to people. It can be a deep emotional connection, and just looking at a piece can evoke so many memories. My cousins and I would exchange stories of when we received our jewellery and we would reminisce about how happy this moment made her. Two of my cousins are only 11 and 12, but my grandmother had already set aside a box for each of them for when they eventually turn 18, this shows just how thoughtful, considerate and remarkable my grandmother was. She didn’t want them to be excluded from what we had all experienced, and I know when they are older and they are able to open there boxes, they will cherish the moment. I have a vast jewellery collection, from expensive designer pieces to cheap costume jewellery, which I have in many different styles. However, the collection my grandmother gave me will always stay closest to my heart. Although it may not offer the same as the other pieces, for example by making an outfit more fashionable or fun; to me it offers other qualities that the other pieces are incapable of. It reminds me of someone who is very special to me. It is interesting to consider that the person who made the jewellery that I now own, probably never thought about what it might mean to someone one day. Most likely, they are designing, producing and selling pieces of jewellery to make money and are not considering its value beyond this process. I doubt they realise that their items hold great sentimental significance in a family. This is what it certainly characterises for me. 49
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All photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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a bright
summer
Be bold this summer and go bright with your jewellery. Here we have selected our favourites, all from Topshop. These looks can be worn casually in the daytime at the pool or beach, or at night to make a colourful addition to your outfit... All photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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Opposite page earrings: ÂŁ6 This page necklace: ÂŁ15
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Necklace ÂŁ22.50
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Earrings ÂŁ12.50
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Earrings ÂŁ12.50
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Corsage ÂŁ6
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Necklace ÂŁ17.50
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designer profiles part II
Butterfly image from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
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Maria Piana Maria Piana is a London based jewellery designer who was born in Greece. She launched her label in 2011, and since this time it has been recognised for it’s unique and luxury aesthetic. Her work has been worn by celebrities including Beyonce and Rita Ora. We spoke to Maria to ask some questions about her label. How did you become a jewellery designer? Is it something you have always had a passion for? It was by chance. A friend lent me a couple of pliers and beads. Then 6 courses of evening classes at the the LCF and then an MA in Jewellery by project at the Cass. What inspired you to design the SS13 Motus collection? It was based on the concept of moving and its association with wings and feathers How does it feel when you see celebrities such as Beyonce and Rita Ora wear your pieces? It can get the creative juices going. Sometimes you know from stylists that the celebriites might be wearing the pieces but the experience remains surreal nonetheless Your designs are unique in the jewellery industry. What do you believe makes your brand different from others? I hope that the brand remains adventurous without succumbing to commercial pressures Your jewellery resembles armour and has a strong feel to it, and this become a signature look for your label. What made you decide to go direction when you launched your brand? It was the intention to empower the wearer. So the association with armour inevitable. I do think that most people wear jewellery to stand out from the –boost their confidence –feel stronger.
has in this was crowd
Which collection are you most proud of and why? I think the Arcus collection. It is slightly more linear and minimal but effective at the same time – possibly more wearable as well How would you like your label to expand? And where do you you see this in the future? Possible expand to mens jewellery and create a fine jewellery line What advice would you give aspiring jewellery designers? To not give up
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Image from Maria Piana Company Profile document
All photographs by Elianna Panayiotou
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Viola Yoo Viola Yoo is a designer who lives in South Korea. She specialises in fine costume jewellery. Viola studied her art at the prestigious Central Saint Martins, and continued her studies back home. She has been featured in many exhibitions over the past few years, and her talent has been recognised by winning awards such as the World Jewellery Design competition and the Modern Jewellery Design competition. We spoke to Viola to find out more about being a designer and in particular the change in jewellery style across the globe.
How did you get in to jewellery design? Since when I was young, I’ve loved making something new by playing with paper and clay. So, all the time, I dreamed of becoming someone who made decorative objects. So, I thought jewelllery object is going to be a perfect ornament for my dream because jewellery is not only having decorative function originally but also implying some messages and dramas between people. I thought it is a very attractive object containing our emotions and memories and even nostalgia. That’s what attracted me about jewellery in the first place. You studied your BA in Korea, why did you move to London to study your MA? As I am Korean, I think I’ve practiced fitted with Korean culture, education system and even thought process naturally. So I just wondered if I experience with multi-cultures, could I think more creatively or differently without culture-based stereotypes? So I decided to study abroad in London which contains mixed cultures. How has living in London and South Korea affected your work? From South Korea based educations, I could get exquisite techniques for jewellery making and even qualities in commercial product and from CSM education, I could think about my jewlellery work more deeply by researching various studies through various areas. Consequently, studies from both countries make me devising high quality jewellery in both design and product quality. Do you feel there is a different jewellery style in both locations? It is totally different. I experienced both jewellery markets even in art-aiming market and very commercial market. Actually I’ve got some real-field careers in both countries. For example, in Korea, people tend to focus on quality and what materials are used in jewellery than the design story or design purpose. Therefore, many jewellery businesses are heading to commercial jewellery with competitive prices. On the other hand, the UK market perform art based jewellery with commercial jewellery. Many consumers in the UK invest for art and design and designer’s ideas. So I think it has a totally different market and possibility in the future market.
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What materials do you like to use for your jewellery, and why does this work for your label? I prefer to use silver and gemstones in my jewellery work. I think silver is ductile for forming and it is not harmful to the body. Besides silver, I prefer to use gemstones in jewellery because I love to play with colours in my jewellery. Colour is very important for my preference. Where did you get your influences from for your current collection? Titled ‘Multiplicity’, this collection is inspired by structural principles from nature and of kaleidoscopic choreography. A multiplicity of single elements form intricate structural patterns.The serial integration of crisp gilded elements results in visual illlusions, which are amplified by the movement of the wearer. The polished surfaces refelct the multiplicity within the whole structure. The viewer is reflected in and contributes to the generation of optical effects, inviting playful interaction between wearer and viewer. Research areas: Biomorphic art, Busby Berkley choreography, Op art, Fractal design, etc You’ve won many awards over the years, how do you feel this helped your work to develop? I think it was very helpful for making new contacts. Awards ceremonies are also important for getting a job as a jewellery designer. Which jewellery designers inspire you and why? I love Victoire de Castellane who is the main desinger of Dior fine jewellery because I love playing with colour by using gemstones on the jewellery. I think her colour playing capacity is just fantastic and when I see her work, I think she still has an innocence of childhood. When I saw Dior’s new collection Victoire de Castellane designed, it was very sensational for me that Dior’s fine jewellery tried a very different route with unique concept and technique.
Image from violayoo.com
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Images from violayoo.com
Images from violayoo.com
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Sneak peek Here’s a few of our favourite looks for the AW 14/15 season. We know it’s early, but it will be a snippet of what’s to come in our next issue. Start preparing for a bolder take on some of the summer’s jewellery trends...
REED KRAKOFF
JOSIE NATORI
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
BALMAIN
ROBERTO CAVALLI
BLACK JEWELLERY
FENDI
dramatic collars
74 Catwalk images from WGSN. Butterfly and flower images from transparent-flowers.tumblr.com
“For me, jewellery is a way of keeping memories alive.” - Lily Collins
Back cover illustration by Louise O’Keeffe.