September/October 2017

is your aversion to cilantro genetic? discover ireland’s culinary and golf ‘pot of gold’

the queen city's best places to get your caffeine fix september • october 2017

contents

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is hating cilantro genetic?

18 BARRINGTO N’S ~

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pot ’o gold: bespoke ireland golf tour delights as cultural and culinary sophistication pair with world-class golf

caffeinated charlotte

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Est. Est.

2000

2014

in each issue 05 the juice

must-have products, hot topics and more

06 ripe for the picking

Est.

2009

wine picks to savor as fall moves in

08 juicy morsels

keeping it local at carolina heritage vineyard & winery

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seats & eats

volume 9 • issue 5

feast on the best of british eats at big ben pub

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profiles of passion the mess is the best: cooking with family creates lifelong memories

32 through the grapevine

gossip and happenings in the local food and wine scene

33 places to go, people to see

a calendar of local events

34 scene around town

check out who’s been out and about

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the juice

LE MERIDIEN CHARLOTTE T +1 704 372 9610 lemeridien.com/ charlotte

Protect Our Oceans, and Your Food Epicurean Charlotte is published locally by Charlotte food and wine lovers for fellow food and wine lovers.

We hope you enjoy our publication and find it helpful when choosing wine, a place to dine or events around town. Copying or reproduction, in part or in whole, is strictly prohibited.

START YOUR JOURNEY

publisher/editor Linda Seligman

N 35° 13’ W 80° 50’ DESTINATION UNLOCKED

Awaken your senses with stimulating experiences, inspired cuisine and moments of discovery at every turn. Let Le Meridien Charlotte help you experience Charlotte through new eyes.

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A premium acacia wood large end grain prep boards aren’t just beautiful, they are less dulling to cutlery because the wood grain accommodates cutting instead of resisting it. Wear and tear is minimized on both cutlery and on the board, giving more longevity to all your cutting tools. Acacia wood is naturally antibacterial and water resistant, making them ideal for use in the kitchen! Large enough for any task, they’re a beautiful addition to any kitchen.

contributing editor Kate Bruce kate@epicureancharlotte.com

©2016–2017 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Le Méridien and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

$84.99 • ironwoodgourmet.com

Plastic-free and leak-proof, the Seal Cup™ Trio is a three-piece set ideal for packing a variety of foods and keeping them separate.

The containers are nesting, so you can pack up to a total of 5 cups of food in the morning and, after you've eaten, you can compactly tote them home by nesting each container inside the other. The non-toxic Seal Cup Trio makes your lunches greener and our oceans cleaner by keeping dangerous plastics out of your lunch and our oceans.

associate editor Ashley Blake Chappell

Engage your senses at lemeridiencharlotte.com

Transform Your Countertop

$29.99 • ecolunchboxes.com

media editor Courtney Matinata design & production Ashley Blake Chappell ashley@epicureancharlotte.com

Transform Your Grill Top

$39.99 • outsetgrillware.com

Uncover the Secret to The Perfect Cookie

With the Outset Oyster Grill Pan, the world is your oyster!

Crafted from durable cast iron, use this versatile 12-section pan to grill oysters on the half shell or shucked. You can also use it to serve chilled oysters on the half shell, make single serving mac & cheese, drop biscuits, mini corn bread, and more. The pan retains heat and doubles as a beautiful grill-to-table serving piece. Cook oysters in a pool of flavor and enjoy!

Recent data suggests that Americans eat an average 18,928 cookies in a lifetime.

To help satisfy the demand, America’s Test Kitchen created the definitive guide to cookie baking, The Perfect Cookie. The book includes tips and tricks throughout and insight on everything from what makes a cookie crunchy versus chewy, to equipment and ingredients that set you up for success. The result? The perfect cookie, every time.

$35.00 • amazon.com

advertising sales Linda Seligman linda@epicureancharlotte.com 704.904.8249 contributing writers Yvonne Ackerman, Brandpoint, Justina Huddleston, Courtney Matinata, Catherine Rabb, Michael J. Solender contributing photographers Yvonne Ackerman/Scallionpancake, Bushmills Inn, Carr Golf, Craig Distl, Mel Maclaine, Courtney Matinata, PMGC, Michael J. Solender

cover image

Deeply Hydrate, Refresh, and Soothe Your Skin $5.00 • theskinfood.us

Let your skin shimmer with the Marine Food Gel Mask from Skinfood, the leading K Beauty brand with a belief that healthy, beautiful skin starts with food. Seaweed is rich in vitamins and minerals, which help skin retain moisture, and this refreshing and moisturizing gel mask is infused with seaweed extracts and blue marine complex for intense hydration to soothe a sun-stressed complexion. Get a tasty treatment with the first cosmetic brand rooted in food.

Pick the Perfect Temp $9.99 • outsetgrillware.com

Ever lost track of whose steak was whose while working the grill? Ever been served the wrong steak or cut of meat? This age old problem is a thing of the past with Steak Collection Grill Charms.

This set of six grill charms bears a variety of markings to differentiate how cooked each cut should be: R for rare, M for medium, W for well-done, plus the in-between steps.

They have serrated edges to keep them firmly secured until you want them out, and are made of chromed zinc, keeping them completely safe to have in your steak, chicken, pork, and more.

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volume 9 • issue 5

epicurean charlotte food & wine

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ripe for the picking

ripe for the picking

Monte Smith of Café Monte French Restaurant and Bistro says the 2014 Emmolo Merlot is a bit pricey but worth every drop.

Thomas Camps of Carolina Prime Steakhouse is enjoying the Bruni Poggio d'Elsa Maremma Toscana 2015.

Bottle $105.00

Football season is back, which means two things for the Queen City. First, cooler temperatures are finally about to make their debut, and second, the hunt is on for the perfect beer to ring in the Panthers season.

Glass $7.50, Bottle $28.00

This is a plush, aromatic, satisfying Merlot boasts notes of black cherries, ripe plums, black currant, dark chocolate, and mint. If you’re looking for a delicate, frilly Merlot, this is most definitely not your perp.

Boasting a tart, fruity nose of cranberries with hints of vanilla and spices, this wine shows notable density, gorgeous depth and richness, and soft tannins.

Bottle $23.99

Light ruby in color, slightly sparkling, and very fresh and eye-catching, you’ll notice spices and red fruits with a vibrant minerality. The JC is to be consumed fresh and is a versatile wine, being well suited for summer drinking as well as an ideal companion for cold cuts and lightly fried foods.

Glass $17.00, Bottle $78.00

Paula Casey of Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub says Mamamango Moscato + Mango is just a ton of fun, and really delicious.

Helen Marie White of Sir Edmond Halley's Restaurant & Freehouse recommends the Bieler Père et Fils La Jassine Côtes du Rhône Villages 2015.

The body is sweet, but not overly so, and has a lot of little fizzy bubbles. The mango flavor is beautiful, with hints of pepper character, lychee, and hints of flowers. A touch of lemon is here and there, and there’s a nice acidity.

A blend of 63 percent Grenache and 37 percent Syrah, this wine is silky and pure, featuring crushed plum fruit gilded with violet and lavender hints. The fruit sails through the finish, making it a solid blend for the price point.

Glass $8.50, Bottle $30.00

Eric Heidal of Foxcroft Wineshop says the Château Caronne Ste Gemme 2010 Haut-Médoc is great for fall drinking.

Bottle $32.99

With flavors of plum, blackberries, cedar, and tobacco, this thick dense wine boasts plenty of dark berry fruits that are lifted by the tannins and fresh acidity. This is a classy medium-bodied red with a fairly long length.

It is approachable young but will also keep for at least a decade.

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Peggy Gibouin of Barrington’s Restaurant recommends the 2013 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah from Argentina.

A seductive nose of coffee and brooding black fleshy fruit opens up to mouth-filling richness on the palate. With velvet layers of dark fruit, tanned leather, and cigar box, it’s perfect for hearty meat dishes, like game meats, rare roast beef, spice-braised lamb, and cheddar.

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Glass $8.00, Bottle $32.00

by kate bruce

With an abundance of choices for the craft beer scene in Charlotte, I narrowed my sights in on one that checks all the boxes. With more than 50 taps and 10,000 square feet of space and skyline views of the city, Catawba Brewery Co. hits the mark. My personal favorite brew—White Zombie—is a classic ale that Catawba has mastered.

Brewed using unmalted wheat, this white ale is light in body and refreshing in taste. Each sip offers a subtle drop of underlying hops featuring flavors of orange, coriander, and a tart finish. But just in case a Belgian-style brew isn’t for you, Catawba Brewing Co. offers small batch brews as well, many of which are kept a surprise until they’re released.

Dylan George of Pasta & Provisions highly recommends the 2016 G.D. Vajra 'Claret J.C.' Langhe Nebbiolo.

drinks with kate

If you’re looking for a one-of-kind beer that you can’t get anywhere else, don’t miss the Festbier—a German-style lager with a distinctive malt character and smooth finish. This easy sipping lager will only be offered through September, so get yours soon! Until next time … cheers and enjoy!

Don’t let tonight’s dinner be tomorrow’s fragrance.

Matthew Matinata of Old Stone Steakhouse recommends the 2015 Hahn Winery Monterey County Pinot Noir.

Glass $9.00, Bottle $33.00

This Pinot Noir’s charismatic aromas include red cherry, ripe strawberry, cola, and spice. Flavors of plum and black cherry are completed by a soft mouthfeel, and supple tannins and a bit of acidity end in a beautifully balanced and clean finish.

epicurean charlotte food & wine

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juicy morsels

keeping it local at carolina heritage vineyard & winery

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t’s impressive that Pat and Clyde Colwell of Carolina Heritage Vineyard & Winery have been able to achieve so much. Not only did they build a demanding business at an age when most consider retirement, the Colwells conquered the challenge of growing grapes organically and learned how to make wonderful wine. Not to mention, they helped create a winemaking community in the Yadkin Valley that encourages and supports each other.

When I express an admiration for their achievements, Pat laughs and says, “We tend to always look forward at what needs to be done, rather than looking back and seeing what we have done. We have been blessed in so many ways, and our desire to work at giving back is pervasive in what we do.”

The story of their journey is interesting. Both had previous careers, Pat with IBM and Clyde in education.

In 2003, the year they met and married while living in the Raleigh area, Pat was 55 and Clyde 60. They were eligible for retirement, but had too much energy and a desire to create something they could do together with purpose.

Clyde, who grew up in the Finger Lakes region of New York, had always wanted a vineyard and winery. Pat was hesitant at first, but warmed to the idea if they could do it organically without the use of chemicals. That quest began with the couple taking classes, talking to everyone they could, and eventually buying Yadkin Valley property in Surry County just outside of Elkin.

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by catherine rabb images courtesy craig distl

Everything was done by hand. They laid out rows, planted vines, and trained, tended, and pruned the vines. When Carolina Heritage opened in 2005, it was North Carolina’s first USDA certified organic vineyard and winery.

For the first five years, friends and children (his two, her three) helped with the harvest, until they “didn’t have any more friends and the kids were mysteriously busy,” Pat jokes.

Today, they have a dozen acres under vine, planted with 14 grape varieties. They also grow organic blueberries and have recently planted apples and pears, as well as elderberries.

Carolina Heritage features a handsome, welcoming tasting room made of North Carolina pine. The tasting room is kidfriendly and pet-friendly, with a vibrant calendar featuring live music most Saturday nights. Clyde is renovating the 1928 farmhouse as a potential guest house, and in her “spare” time, Pat makes organic Kombucha. The Colwells are active in the community, environmental advocates, and ardent supporters of local musicians, artists, and cheesemakers.

Before the first wine was produced, the challenge was growing grapes organically. North Carolina can be a tough place because the humidity creates mildew issues.

“Everyone I talked to said organic grapes could not be grown in North Carolina,” Pat recalls. “And I’m the type of person who digs in my heels when I am told I can’t do something.”

One of the reasons they chose the Elkin area was its elevation. Their property sits at 1,100 feet, a good elevation volume 9 • issue 5

for organic grapes. They also studied and researched, carefully selecting the organic vines to plant. After taking classes at Cornell and Surry Community College, they decided vitis vinifera, or grapevines of European descent, were not appropriate, as they tend to be susceptible to disease. They opted instead for hybrids, a cross between vitis vinifera and native American varieties, as well as native Muscadine grapes, which grow well in North Carolina. The Colwells experimented with several varietals before settling on 10 hybrids and four Muscadines.

Carolina Heritage is known for its rich, fruity flavorful Chambourcin red. Pat describes it as Merlot-like, with smooth, light tannins. Another popular red is the Cabernet Franc.

Traminette, a hybrid from the European grape Gewürztraminer, is a dry, but fruity white, while Cayuga (a Sauvignon Blanc hybrid) is used for a dry, crisp citrus-y white.

And yes, all Carolina Heritage wines come from organic grapes. The organic certification is a national one and requires a deep commitment. The program has a specific set of rules. No chemicals can be used, there must be a 20-foot barrier around the vineyards, precise records must be kept and routine inspections are conducted.

A few years back, I took a viticulture course at Surry Community College to better my ability to teach on the subject of wine. The other students were potential growers, and most worked in the business. Pat and Clyde came for epicurean charlotte food & wine

a guest lecture, and I still remember the reaction from the students in class, as if they were rock stars.

One of the most rewarding aspects for the Colwells is working through the entire process of making wine, then sharing it with visitors. “There are very few things in the modern world where you get to do the whole cycle and are able to complete every step in the process, and then share that,” Pat says.

Indeed, the Colwells quite enjoy sharing their labor of love with friends, family, and guests. Local is important to them, and their wines are as local as it gets.

I must admit, I’m a bit in awe of the Colwells’ accomplishments. They took a chance and, through dedication, vision, and hard work, created something special. Along the way, they supported neighbors and friends, while being excellent stewards of the environment.

When you visit, raise a glass to the vision of these good people. In today’s busy world, the gift they give of a handcrafted product, made with care and love, is special and worth celebrating.E

carolina heritage vineyard & winery 170 heritage vines way • elkin 336.366.3301 • carolinaheritagevineyards.com sep temb er • octob er 2 017

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seats & eats

feast on the best of british eats at big ben british restaurant & pub article and images by courtney matinata

W

here can you relish in a plate of Bubble & Squeak, a traditional English breakfast any day of the week, a 20-ounce Smithwick’s, and soccer on every TV? There’s only one answer, and it’s Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub in the heart of beloved South End. For those who have been longstanding dwellers of our growing city, you may know that Big Ben hasn’t always held a spot off of South Boulevard. David Harris, who has 25 successful years in the pub business under his belt, first opened Big Ben’s original location with wife, Paula Casey, in a historic Myers Park property off Providence Road back in 2007. Gaining an instant fan base with its unique and authentic offerings, Big Ben became a local favorite.

With only four years in the books, an unfortunate fire to the building resulted in the restaurant relocating in 2010, but steadfast for success, the team wasted no time rising from the ashes. They rebuilt the pub in its current home of Atherton Mill within the very same year. Now a decade-long member of the Charlotte community, Big Ben continues to draw in locals and visitors alike by way of a cozy, laid back environment and a traditional English aura that everyone can’t help but love.

Harris, himself, is English, and with this foundation comes longstanding family recipes that he just couldn’t wait to share with the Queen City. Big Ben British Restaurant & Pub, named after the famous clock tower in London, brings you

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all the tastes, vibes, and traditional terms of England that are hard to come by within our Southern surroundings. In fact, you’ll feel as if you’ve been plopped down in a small and intimate local saloon among the outskirts of London. “That’s always the focus,” shares Casey on the atmosphere you’ll encounter here. “We’re as close as you’re going to find.”

When posting up at a pub table, it’s impossible for your eyes not to wander over the interior setting. Flags drop from the ceiling overhead, and old world décor (some of which was salvaged from the original location) fills the worn brick walls, while a big screen displays the day’s matches. A long wooden bar on one end displays an eclectic mix of British signs and over 20 taps—with both imported beers and your local craft favorites—separated off by a vintage lace curtain enveloping the area with a touch of hominess.

During my recent visit, I got to sit down with Head Chef and General Manager Marcus Hart, who has been with the team since the very beginning. He knows the menu’s details inside and out, as well as the stories behind every tradition. You’ll uncover everything from English staples like Cottage Pie and Bangers & Mash to hard-to-find brews such as Boddingtons, making dining here the perfect switch-up to your after work routine. Each dish is stock full of flavor, and trust me when I say that the size of the helpings here is equally impressive.

I recommend first warming up your taste buds with a

epicurean charlotte food & wine

big ben british restaurant & pub 2000 south blvd. #150 • charlotte 704.817.9697 • www.bigbenpub.com mouthwatering starter like the sausage rolls, or a must-try British favorite: the Scotch Egg, a hard-boiled egg inside a banger (English herbed sausage) and then deep fried.

It’s served up with a sweet and tangy English chutney that perfectly complements the crispy outer shell.

Now it’s time to narrow down the entrée section, and the Fish & Chips is definitely the crowd favorite here. Many customers come in with the sole purpose of getting their hands on this haddock filet, beer battered to perfection and served up with French fries, a wally (pickle), and a delicious house-made tartar sauce. From there you can add your own lemon, malt vinegar, you name it, to complete your flavor finish. (The fish serving takes up the whole plate, so make sure to bring your appetite!)

If you’re interested in indulging in a traditional English pasty, you can’t go wrong with any of the featured picks.

All are made in house daily, and whether you opt for the Shepard’s Pie (made with ground lamb) or prefer Cottage Pie (the ground beef version), you won’t be disappointed.

My current craving is the Tin Miner’s Cornish Pasty—a comfort food collaboration that had me wanting to gobble up every last bite of the massive portion. This English dish originated in the mines to provide everything one would need for a meal in a single serving, in a shape that could easily be eaten without cutlery. Big Ben has kept with the custom, featuring a buttery and flaky puff pastry shell packed full of flavor with juicy minced ground beef cooked up in savory gravy, blended with carrots and peas, and layered with creamy mashed potatoes.

When it comes to deciding which side to pair with your main dish, there are 10 excellent choices. But my tip: swap out your side for a Bubble & Squeak (you can find this in the

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appetizer section). This particular dish was formed back in the day to utilize leftover trimmings such as minced vegetables and potatoes, and it’s named after the sound it makes when being fried up like a potato cake. Big Ben’s version blends sautéed cabbage with mashed potatoes, making for a unique and enticing supplement to any entrée.

If you’re not looking to sway too far away from your typical lunch habits, you can always stick with the tasty Palace Burger (add the English bacon if you want to claim you’re a tad bit British), or choose from one of the menu’s nine salad selections. If you’re a foodie who always finds yourself counting down to the weekend for a big brunch, Big Ben has you covered in that category as well, serving up breakfast every day until 2pm. We recommend basking in the Full English Breakfast, a plate complete with eight different items including eggs, an English banger, English bacon, and more.

Whether it’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner you’ve devoured, dessert should never be passed up when there’s Bread and Butter Pudding up for grabs. Layers of strawberry preserves and golden raisins rest in between dense layers of baked bread topped with pudding and whipped cream, making this treat a finale that is both delicate and decadent, and undeniably delicious.

Grab your mates; take a much-needed break from your work schedule, and cheers to an upcoming week of fun events like trivia on Tuesdays, live music on Fridays, and Extreme Music Bingo on Saturdays. A view of the Rail Trail makes Big Ben’s patio an ideal spot to enjoy the evening happy hour deals, and the recent sponsorship of the Charlotte Barbarians Rugby Club offers even more reason to become a regular.

So slow down and settle in for an afternoon of adventure abroad—one that isn’t even a plane ride away.E

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profiles of passion

'the sauce'

freddie prinze jr. • back to the kitchen

ingredients: • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1/2 pound ground pork • 1/2 pound ground veal or beef • 4 ounces diced pancetta • salt and black pepper • 1/2 cup red wine (something you would drink) • 3 small to medium cloves of garlic • 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley • 1 teaspoon dried basil • 1 box or can (26 ounces) tomato sauce • 1 box linguine

the mess is the best cooking with family creates lifelong memories

P

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Start off with a clean slate. Ask the kids to quickly help empty the dishwasher and sink to de-clutter the kitchen. Before you start cooking, have the kid’s guess how long they think the "Messipe" cleanup will take and time it. The winner gets to try the first bite!

The first step to family fun in the kitchen is selecting the “Messipe.” One of Prinze Jr.’s favorites is ‘The Sauce.’ This tasty tomato-based sauce has enough steps and ingredients to get the whole family involved, yet it’s also easy to make and delicious.

“Between the prep, taste tests, stirring, and adding the Parmesan cheese at the end, the whole family works together,” he says. “This time spent with family is just as good as the meals we make.”E

In a medium soup pot, heat the oil over medium low heat. Add your diced pancetta to the pan and cook for 2 minutes.

Roll up your sleeves—it's time to get messy!

In a bowl, take turns mixing the veal and pork with washed, clean hands. Add your salt and pepper, and then add to the pan, browning the meat with the pancetta. Stir occasionally, with a wooden spoon, for about 8 minutes, breaking the meat up as you go.

Make Cleanup a Breeze Cooking dinner with kids can be a great way to create unforgettable family memories over the fun, messy moments in the kitchen. When making sauce together, splashes, spills and splatters will happen.

One cleanup trick is to quickly drop some flour on any spills to avoid the mess from spreading. This way, you can keep cooking and not worry about cleaning up the mess right away.

When it's cleanup time, make it a family event.

Fill a spray bottle with warm water and a few drops of dish-washing liquid to help cut through any tough grease. Let the kids squirt the bottle over the mess, and then you can easily wipe it up without a lot of elbow grease.

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Increase the heat to medium and add the wine, simmering until it reduces by half. Add the garlic, parsley, basil, and tomato sauce.

Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce begins to thicken, about 30 minutes.

Cover and cook for 15 minutes more (aka walk away till it's done). Take turns tasting for salt and pepper and serve hot. "I like to pair the sauce with linguine pasta—and it's also my kids' favorite," Prinze says.

santypan/shutterstock.com

reparing a family dinner doesn’t have to be a solo chore when there are helping hands nearby. Getting the kids involved in the kitchen not only teaches them valuable lessons, but it’s also an opportunity to create fun family memories with a few spills and messes along the way.

“The dinner table is a great place for sharing the day’s events, but it’s in the kitchen where family memories are made,” says actor, dad, and cookbook author Freddie Prinze Jr. “Some of the best moments with my kids are when we roll up our sleeves and get messy while making our favorite recipes.”

There’s no doubt that splatters, splashes, and spills are a mess, but these messy moments can lead to laughter and unforgettable memories. To encourage families to make time for fun in the kitchen, Prinze Jr. has created a series of “Messipes,” kid-friendly messy recipes that are tasty, simple to prepare, with handy cleanup tips along the way.

“One thing I’ve learned from cooking with my kids is to appreciate the time spent together and not worry about the mess,” he says. “Of course, the cleanup has to happen at some point, so I like to add a few cleaning steps to encourage my kids to help while we’re in the kitchen.”

A trick he uses is to ask the kids to fill a large bowl with warm water and a few drops of dish liquid, to quickly cut through the grease. Then, the kids help by collecting the used dishes and place them in the bowl to make cleanup easier.

reprinted with permission from brandpoint

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is hating cilantro genetic?

by justina huddleston

reprinted with permission from menuism.com

Y PicStudio/shutterstock.com

ou often hear people say, “you either love it, or you hate it,” about certain things, and with cilantro, that certainly seems to be the case.

Even self-professed culinary adventurers sometimes find themselves at a roadblock with the herb, complaining of a soapy or bitter flavor.

Julia Childs hated cilantro so much that she told Larry King in 2002 that if it made its way into a dish she was eating, she would just pick it out and throw it on the floor.

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epicurean charlotte food & wine

Other people love the herb. Its unique flavor is found in cuisines all around the world, having spread across several continents from its native southern Europe, northern Africa, and southwestern Asia, even making its way across the sea to central and south America (while it’s known as cilantro in most of North and South America, in Europe and other parts of the world it’s called coriander).

In spite of its ubiquity, it seems that people are split over cilantro’s culinary value. Its polarizing effect is so infamous that it has inspired several groups of scientists to search for a genetic link to revulsion of the herb. And it turns out there is one … maybe.

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At the University of Toronto, geneticists polled a group of 1,400 young adults about their opinion of cilantro. They found that people of different ethnicities have distinct impressions of the herb. While only 3 percent of respondents with a Middle Eastern background reported disliking cilantro, a whopping 21 percent of those with an East Asian background reported an aversion to the herb.

Another study of 25,000 people, from the genetic analysis company 23andMe, found a correlation between aversion to the herb and one single spot located next to a group of odordetecting genes—specifically, next to a gene that is responsible for picking up on the soapy aromas that some people report tasting in cilantro.

Yet another attempt to pinpoint the source of cilantro aversion studied twins. Based on their cilantro preferences, scientists were able to isolate three more genes that could be responsible for how we interpret the herb’s flavors.

In spite of this, Nicholas Eriksson, the leader of the 23andMe study, says that the influence of certain DNA isn’t absolute. This genetic predisposition doesn’t actually “make a huge difference in cilantro preference from person to person,” he told NPR’s The Salt. In fact, according to the data, just 10 percent of cilantro aversion is the result of any specific genetic variants. And even for that 10 percent, the influence of this sort of DNA “isn’t like your height, that you’re stuck with. People can change it.”

But how?

Jay Gottfried, a neuroscientist at Northwestern University, has the answer.

In an interview with the New York Times, he explained that though someone’s brain may have an immediately negative response to the smell or taste of the herb, repeat exposure can help expand and change the brain’s perception.

He told the Times, “I didn’t like cilantro to begin with … But, I love food, and I ate all kinds of things, and I kept encountering it. My brain must have developed new patterns for cilantro flavor from those experiences, which included pleasure from the other flavors and the sharing with friends and family. That’s how people in cilantro-eating countries experience it every day.

“So I began to like cilantro. It can still remind me of soap, but it’s not threatening anymore, so that association fades into the background, and I enjoy its other qualities. On the other hand, if I ate cilantro once and never willingly let it pass my lips again,

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Olga Miltsova/shutterstock.com; Bochkarev Photography/shutterstock.com; MAEWJPHO/shutterstock.com; SATHORNCAM/shutterstock.com

Though someone's brain may have an immediately negative response to the smell or taste of the herb, repeat exposure can help expand and change the brain's perception.

there wouldn’t have been a chance to reshape that perception.”

Meanwhile, anthropologist Helen Leach has suggested that, as with many other foods, the cultural opinion of cilantro has fluctuated over the years. Though cilantro was a very common herb throughout Europe during the Middle Ages, it fell out of favor near the turn of the 17th century. Leach found references to coriander in French and English agricultural books that inaccurately traced the etymology of coriander to a reference to crushed insects and bed bugs, and the books were generally disparaging of the herb. She theorizes that this was a reflection of a subconscious attempt by cooks at the time to distance their food from the medieval dishes and flavors of the past. While some people genuinely just disliked the herb, the widely held negative opinion of cilantro at the time was likely a result of cultural trends.

So, if you passionately hate cilantro but are bothered by having to constantly pick those little green leaves out of your food, there is hope. Surround yourself with cilantro-positivity and attempt to retrain your brain. To speed the process, cilantrophobes might want to try it in pesto. Crushing the cilantro leaves releases an enzyme that helps mellow out the more potent aromas and flavors.

And if you already love the stuff, try not to evangelize— no one wants an arrogant, cilantro-loving know-it-all friend to be proved right!E

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pot o’ gold bespoke ireland golf tour delights as cultural and culinary sophistication pair with world-class golf by michael j. solender Jeanrenaud Photography/shutterstock.com

images courtesy Bushmills Inn, Carr Golf, Mel Maclaine, PMGC, Michael J. Solender

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lways order the seafood chowder in Ireland,” one of my playing partners said on day one of a recent eight-day golfing tour of Ireland’s northeast and the north and west of Northern Ireland.

Mere hours after arriving in Dublin, we were fueling up in the clubhouse grill at Portmarnock Golf Club. Site of numerous Irish Open Championships and rated one of the top 100 courses in the world by Golf Digest, Portmarnock’s golf links is legendary.

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In choosing Ireland, I knew I was in for the golf experience of a lifetime, though five-star dining throughout the Emerald Isle was not on my radar. Ordering the chowder that first day provided only a hint of the culinary delights to come.

Chock-full of Atlantic cod, North Sea salmon, whitefish, and scallops, the creamy chowder was flecked with fresh thyme, parsley, flavorful new potatoes, and just a hint of sherry. A slice (or two) of fabled Irish brown bread, grainy and toothsome with a yeasty nose and a lovely crust, was all I needed as fortification for the awaiting round.

Hosted by Carr Golf, Ireland’s top custom golf tour operator for more than 27 years, our group of seven was set to enjoy a week’s worth of the best golf, dining, and cultural experiences this enchanted land has to offer.

After starting in Dublin at Portmarnock, we next headed north and west into Northern Ireland, beyond Belfast.

Counties Down, Donnegal, Sligo, and Mayo lined an itinerary that saw us play at the storied Royal County Down, Royal Portrush (site of the 2019 British Open Championship), Portstewart, Rosapenna, and Enniscrone.

My favorite was Portstewart, with its high ridges and jutting dunes interrupted by ribbons of green fairway, all framed by the Atlantic and its unceasing surf. Together with a club member who doubled as a caddy, I found an elusive October sunny day, and, while not exactly taming the

course, finished respectably.

As my host Marty Carr, executive chair of Carr Golf remarked, “Irish links golf is an experience unlike any other.” I now have first-hand knowledge of that fact and heartily concur.

royal county down Even the most focused golfing buddy-trip in Ireland however, does not subsist on golf alone.

Case in point: Slieve Donard Resort and Spa in Newcastle embodied the gold standard of hospitality, accommodations, and fine dining.

In the shadow of the magnificent Mourne Mountains and abutting the sea only steps from its doors, the Slieve Donard has a history extending back to 1897. It was then the Belfast and County Down Railway decided to build a hotel that was worthy of its magnificent setting creating the “most imposing structure of its kind in Ireland.”

Today, the stunning Victorian hotel rests on six acres, boasts a world-class spa, fitness center, and luxurious bedrooms. The Slieve’s public space encourages lingering in quiet conversation nooks, and the property’s walking proximity to both the straw-colored beachfront and the famed Royal County Down Golf Links make it an ideal choice.

portrush

slieve donard resort & spa portstewart

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To dine here is to know both service and inspired nouvelle Irish cuisine. Menus are crafted with a great deal of forethought as they embrace farm to fork dining—without shouting it like most in America do—with proteins, produce, and dairy.

Tired from a day on the links, our group took golfer’s spa treatments (note: foot exfoliation is the bomb), cleaned up, and set off to the Slieve’s Oak Restaurant. Shared starters included an ethereal Cannelloni of Killkeel Crab and Cucumber served with watermelon salad and a piquant basil aioli and Tian of Spiced Portavogie Prawns and Avocado topped by a light chili infused oil, sweet mango, and coconut foam. The appetizer set the senses a buzz in anticipation of the mains.

For the main, I went with the Herb Crusted Rump of Mourne Lamb.

Buttery tender, the lamb was a perfect mid-rare and served with a medley of root vegetables, green pea mint purée, shallot tart tartin, and a red wine jus.

Service is subtle and unobtrusive yet appears just as you require it with servers filling water glasses, whisking away bread plates, and making gentle inquiries as to the overall experience.

dining at the slieve's oak restaurant

After a stunning drive along the Causeway Coast, a warming peat fire welcomed us at the historic Bushmills Inn, its origins extending back to the 17th century.

The tiny welcoming village of Bushmills was next on our agenda, where nearby Royal Portrush, the site of the 2019 British Open, awaited us.

After a stunning drive along the Causeway Coast, a warming peat fire welcomed us at the historic Bushmills Inn, its origins extending back to the 17th century. A charming country style inn, Bushmills takes particular pride and care in showcasing the best of Ulster hospitality and cuisine.

Local dishes featured on their menu (called ‘scrans’, a local expression for a good meal) include Dalriada Cullen Skink, which is a traditional Ulster Scots dish of smoked haddock, local potatoes, scallions and poached egg; Brotchan, an old name for a thick soup; toasted soda farls; and potato bread ‘chips’.

Bushmills excels in all facets of the kitchen, though breakfast is the true standout. This is the place to enjoy a traditional Irish breakfast with slab bacon, rashers and blood pudding, broiled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms, eggs as you like them, and freshly-baked Irish soda bread.

Nearby was one of my favorite diversions beyond the golf course, the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Giant’s Causeway. An expansive geological wonder situated alongside Northern Ireland’s shores, this massive jigsaw puzzle of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns and jagged rock formations was formed over 60 million years of volcanic activity.

Legend has the mythical Celtic warrior Finn McCool constructing a

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bushmills giant's causeway

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giant’s causeway

irish breakfast at bushmills inn

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jumbled stone walking path all the way to Scotland to reach his beloved.

Allow at least three hours to experience the exhibitions, hike the walking trails, and simply wonder at the crashing surf of this natural marvel.

hawk walks Highlighting our sojourn was an overnight stay at Mt. Falcon Estate in County Mayo. This stunning country manor home rests along the famed River Moy and boasts some of the best salmon fishing in the country.

Take a “Hawk Walk” along the forested grounds with onsite falconer, Jason Deasey. Deasey is thrilled to introduce you to his “harem” of Harris hawks, owls, and assorted raptors, who, together with an incredibly well-trained Hungarian Viszla, put on a spellbinding display of this exhilarating ancient hunting technique.

Proprietor Alan Maloney has spent years restoring this baronial lodge into one of the most sought-after countryside retreats in the country. No detail is too small in ensuring guests’ comfort, from the moist heat of the ever burning peat fires, comfy public rooms, an inviting bar with the finest Irish spirits, and first rate dining.

With incredible countryside, warm hospitality, and the best golf on the planet, it’s easy to see why Irish eyes are smiling.E For more information on Carr Golf, visit www.carrgolf.com, or call 1.855.617.5701 (U.S. toll free).

Hugh O'Connor/shutterstock.com

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caffeinated charlotte by yvonne ackerman images courtesy yvonne ackerman-scallionpancake

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hether it’s the beyond essential Monday morning cup or a leisurely Sunday afternoon iced concoction, there is nothing like good coffee. Charlotte is home to many great coffee houses, many of which are roasting their own beans or procuring beans from North Carolina roasters.

We’ve narrowed down the top spots in your neighborhood that are perfect for grabbing a quick cup of coffee on the run, or for enjoying a leisurely afternoon catching up on work over a latté and a pastry.

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The Spot: HEX Coffee

The Spot: Coco and the Director

Caffeine Fix: HEX stands out because they roast their own coffee beans and they also employ a unique technique to brew their coffee: the coffee shot. Through this method, which is essentially brewing coffee through an espresso machine, the coffee experts at HEX can ensure the flavor in each cup is rich and consistent. In addition to their hot coffee, there is cold brew on tap as well as seasonally rotating tap creations like a draft vanilla latté. Grab a bag of their beans to take home, and ask the awesome staff for tips on how to brew flavorful cups in your own kitchen.

Caffeine Fix: Coco and the Director is located in the recently renovated (and gorgeous) Marriott hotel, and every bit of this local gem feels special, from the stadium seating to the locally-roasted coffee beans. Enjoy your coffee brewed from an aeropress, a pour over, or served up as a cold brew.

Their dirty chai tea latté (chai tea mixed with milk and a shot of espresso) is the best iteration of this drink in Charlotte.

It’s extra spicy, strong on the espresso, and not too sweet.

neighborhood: south end hex.coffee

neighborhood: uptown cocoandthedirector.com

Eats: Grab some locally-made Whisk and Wood pastries (often vegan and gluten-free), or a chocolate bar from Videri Chocolate Factory, based out of Raleigh.

Eats: If you’re in the mood for something sweet, their homemade banana bread is to die for. If you’re craving something more substantial, grab a sandwich made with their carved-to-order roasted meat of the day, like brisket or smoked pork shoulder.

Tip: HEX shares a space with Good Bottle Co., which offers loads of local and craft beer. Hit up HEX in the morning and Good Bottle for a nightcap!

Tip: Coco offers fun evening activities like movie viewings and networking events. Check out their Instagram for the lineup!

The Spot: FABO Coffee Art Bar

The Spot: South End Grind

Caffeine Fix: The name FABO stands for “fabulous art buying opportunity,” and the café features and sells the work of local artists in addition to a wide array of coffee and espresso drinks. FABO is super friendly for those who need to spend a few hours nursing their coffee as they work on their laptops, or to book clubs looking for a place to gather.

They even host local musicians and offer evening art and wine classes! FABO is open late and serves wine and beer on tap if you find yourself holed up in this cozy spot long enough that you want to switch from a latté to rosé.

Caffeine Fix: Seattle native and Queens University graduate Freddie Nordhoff opened South End Grind in June 2017 at Urban MVMNT, a mixed-use space that combines strength and conditioning classes, spin, and now, great coffee. Nordhoff brews beans from local favorite roaster Pure Intentions, and serves up creative seasonal options like the Gym and Tonic, a mix of espresso, tonic water, and honey-lemon syrup poured over ice.

If you’re looking for a more traditional cup, you can get yours brewed from an aeropress or traditional drip.

Eats: Grab some doughnuts from Move That Dough Baking Co. But arrive early if you want one with your morning joe— they tend to sell out very quickly.

Tip: SEG sometimes offers pop-up events, like a recent collaboration with Two Scoops Creamery, where you could enjoy a shot of espresso or cold brew over ice cream for a delicious affogato!

Follow Southendgrindclt on Instagram for upcoming events.

neighborhood: south charlotte www.fabocafe.com

neighborhood: south end southendgrind.com

Eats: Grab a muffin or a scone from a local bakery to enjoy along with your coffee.

Tip: Check out FABO on Thursdays, when they have $6 glasses of wine all day long and trivia at 8 p.m.!

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The Spot: Rush Espresso Coffee Company

The Spot: Central Coffee Co.

neighborhood: plaza midwood & south end tinyurl.com/centralcoffee

neighborhood: ballantyne & uptown www.rushespressocafe.com

Caffeine Fix: Central Coffee Co. brews each cup with beans from North Carolina-based Joe Van Gogh, and the result is consistently smooth and rich coffee and espresso. Central is perhaps best known for serving up one of the city’s first and best cold brew coffees, and its full-bodied caffeine hit does not disappoint in the warmer months. For specialty drinks, they make several of their syrups in house, and nothing beats their spicy mocha in the winter—Central sources freshly ground local peppers and blends them into the chocolate espresso.

Caffeine Fix: Rush serves Di Bella coffee and espresso, and the flavor of each cup is rich and smooth. The menu offers some unique options, like the rarely-seen iced cappuccino (expertly shaken with lots of foam), or the Café Viennesse, which combines espresso and whipped cream for a truly decadent pick-me-up. While the Uptown location of Rush is designed for morning commuters, the Ballantyne location urges you to stay a while. There is ample seating and a huge selection of breakfast and lunch items (both served all day), along with a dinner menu available after 5 p.m. Rush Ballantyne also has a full bar menu with wine, beer on tap, and cocktails.

Eats: The food at Central Coffee Co. is so good that you may have a hard time choosing what to order. Standouts include homemade quiche, the best-ever zucchini bread, and a wide assortment of pastries including baklava and Greek biscotti.

Eats: For breakfast, you can’t go wrong with the bacon jam and eggs or the tomato crostini with whipped feta.

Tip: The original location has limited seating, and patrons are encouraged to share a table if they are sitting alone.

If you’re willing to share precious laptop real estate with another customer, grab a sign at the counter to place on your table to show that you are open to making new friends.E

Tip: Rush Ballantyne offers live music every Friday and Saturday night and open mic on Wednesday nights!

The Spot: Smelly Cat Coffeehouse neighborhood: noda smellycatcoffee.com

Eats: Enjoy a slice of quiche, or try one of their breakfast sandwiches on house made biscuits. There’s also a variety of assorted pastries.

Tip: Make sure to get your Instagram-friendly shot of the mural on the outside of the building—“drink coffee, be cool.”

Bonus points if you sing Phoebe’s famous song from Friends while you snap and sip away.

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Caffeine Fix: Smelly Cat brews their own beans, and they have been a NoDa institution for nearly 20 years.

Enjoy your super fresh cup as a pour over, or in an espresso drink. Particularly high marks go to the dirty chai frappé and the sledgehammer, which is espresso blended with dark chocolate. All iced drinks are made with crushed ice, which immediately ups the deliciousness quotient of any cold beverage. There is plenty of indoor seating, as well as an outdoor seating area with a bowl of water if you want to stop by with your pup.

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places to go, people to see

through the grapevine Alejandro Torio, Patrick Whalen, and Chef Jamie Lynch (of 5Church Charlotte) are teaming up with a Charleston mixologist to open Sophia’s Lounge, a chic spot on the ground level of The Ivey’s Hotel. Look for both food and drinks with sharable plates and craft cocktails. sophiaslounge.com

Shake Shack has confirmed they’ll open their first Charlotte location by year’s end

by Burton’s at Park Road Shopping Center. With construction currently underway, Shake Shack’s menu includes burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, frozen custards, milkshakes, and more. www.shakeshack.com

A new nightclub called World is coming to the AvidXchange Music Factory Labor Day Weekend in the former Label location. With 21,000-square-feet of event space, it will house EDM and hiphop DJs on the weekends as well as host parties, corporate events, and weddings. www.facebook.com/WorldNightclub

Pasta & Provisions will open a third location in the former Red Sea Grocery spot at the corner of South Mint Street and Spruce Street. Similar to the Park Road location, they’ll feature carry-out hot food as well as beer and wine on tap.

This will be George’s first owned, rather than leased, location. Congratulations! www.pastaprovisions.com

A new California-inspired taco and tequila restaurant called SouthBound is planning to open late this summer in the spot next to Mac’s Speed Shop on South Boulevard. The restaurant will have a Southern California feel to it inside, complete with black and white photography and street murals, and seating to accommodate 196 people inside and another 95 outside. The menu will include fresh salsas and juices, margaritas, beers, house-made tortillas, tequila, and tacos all made with fresh ingredients. Around the corner is a walk-up taco window, where you can bypass the restaurant experience and just grab a bag of tacos to go. www.macspeedshop.com

Nékter Juice Bar, a California-based chain, is planning to open in South End in the same shopping complex as the new Harris Teeter late this October. Nékter specializes in juices, smoothies, açai bowls, cold-pressed bottled drinks, coldbrew coffee, chia parfaits, juice cleanses, and Skoop, their version of healthy froyo. www.nekterjuicebar.com

Spanish tapas concept Barcelona Wine Bar is opening its first location in the Carolinas, signing a lease at the newly revamped South End Design Center.

Look for a comprehensive wine list with nearly 400 wines from around the world available by the glass, in addition to Spanish and Mediterranean tapas. www.barcelonawinebar.com

William Dissen, chef-owner of The Market Place restaurant in Asheville, plans to open Haymaker in the new Ascent high-rise Uptown late this year. They’ll serve morning coffee, lunch, and dinner with a focus on locally-sourced and locallygrown food. The restaurant will have more than 150 seats, a bar/lounge, an upstairs mezzanine, and an outdoor patio.

Check out our website! Get up-to-date information on events and news around town, view past issues and more. While you’re there, become our friend on Facebook and follow us on Instagram and Twitter. www.epicureancharlotte.com

Cantina 1511 is adding a third location to their lineup with the opening of an Uptown location in Hearst Tower this fall.

Occupying the former Blue Restaurant location, fans of Blue will be glad to hear executive chef Gene Briggs and additional Blue staff members will stay on to guide the direction of the new location. www.cantina15eleven.com

A new bar concept is coming to Fourth Ward from the teams behind Dandelion Market, Tyber Creek, and Workman’s Friend. The Daily is targeting an early fall opening in the former Dillinger’s spot, which closed in 2014. The Daily will be “a refined watering hole” serving craft beer, cocktails, and American fare. www.thedailyclt.com

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Bardo, a new small plates restaurant, is coming soon to South End’s Gold District. Bardo will feature an open kitchen concept and a seasonal “progressive American” menu served small plate-style.

They’ll join an influx of openings in the area just south of Uptown between Winnifred Street and the railroad tracks. twitter.com/bardorestaurant

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Blue Restaurant & Bar, the uptown Mediterranean hot spot that has been an upscale fixture in Charlotte’s dining scene for nearly 14 years, has closed.

Good luck to Alex Myrick in his next adventure.

Vin Master, the eclectic wine shop located at Atherton Mill in South End, is now under the new ownership of Rochelle Baxter and her boyfriend, John Pruett. Baxter’s vision for Vin Master is a destination spot that serves as an urban provisions market by day and wine bar by night. The updated interior consists of a bar top, new tables, and a corner filled with local groceries for sale. Baxter also livened the space up with new artwork, flowers on each countertop, and candles at night. There are events scheduled for almost every night of the week, including $5 mimosas and sangrias on Sunday, Trivia Night on Tuesdays, and wine tastings on Thursdays. www.vinmastercharlotte.com epicurean charlotte food & wine

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Oktoberfest Beer Festival

Going 18 years strong, patrons can sample beverages from more than 100 breweries from across the region and around the world while enjoying games, live entertainment and food vendors. This event sells out quickly, so grab your tickets today!

www.charlotteoktoberfest.com

07 Yiasou Greek Festival

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Experience the sights and sounds of Greece at the 40th Annual Yiasou Greek Festival, which features Hellenic cultural exhibits, authentic Greek cuisine and pastries, entertainment, art, shopping and more.

www.yiasoufestival.org

22 Festival in the Park

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Rhino Market & Deli will open their second location at 400 S. Tryon Street in the newly renovated 33-story office tower facing Romare Bearden Park. The new Rhino will have indoor seating for up to 50 customers and will include a breakfast menu and quick-service deli options for lunch. Two nine-foot windows along Church Street will open up like garage doors so diners can see the streetscape. The market will include a retail store and bar where customers can buy groceries, six-packs of beer, and wine by the glass. A big shout out to owner Rob Rondelez. rhinomarket.com

september

Festival in the Park is celebrating its 52nd year! As Charlotte’s oldest and longest running free festival, Festival in the Park brings a variety of foods, live music and performing and visual arts to Freedom Park.

www.festivalinthepark.org

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Great Grapes!

Bring your friends and family to Symphony Park for this annual wine, arts and food festival featuring hundreds of your favorite wines and wineries, vendors, food and live music.

www.uncorkthefun.com volume 9 • issue 5

Taste the Mint

Find art, food, and cocktails all in the same place at this brand new version of Taste of the Mint, featuring a new collaboration with Evoke Restaurant.

Enjoy crafted cocktails and dine on small bites, all inspired by the Schiff-Bresler Family Fiber Art Gallery.

www.mintmuseum.org

20 Carolina BalloonFest -22

Bring your cameras, lawn chairs and blankets to bask in the beautiful Carolina autumn weather as the backdrop to all the sights and sounds of over 50 colorful hot air balloons, which are scheduled to launch twice daily.

www.carolinaballoonfest.com

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Yadkin Valley Grape Festival

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Lexington Barbecue Festival

This 14th annual Yadkinville festival features the wines of the Yadkin Valley Appellation, in addition to wine tastings, entertainment, food, and specialty vendors.

yvgf.com For the 33rd year running, Lexington, NC, will be filled with arts & crafts vendors, entertainers, street performers and delicious festival food. Vendors serve up thousands of pounds of legendary barbeque sandwiches freshly made from the festival’s official area restaurants.

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enjoying drinks at the new southpark grill l to r: Natali Schlottig, Danny Sanford

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cantopia launch party at sycamore brewery l to r: Tyler Petrucelli, Jordyn Sento, Christian Eloussoa, Robert DelFave, Marrissa Piasecki, Stephen Johnson

11th anniversary party

for brio tuscan grille l to r: Gerry Vaillancourt, Deborah Marks, Linda Seligman, John Rosenblatt, Denise Shinn

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l. polite-coleman's retirement party at brio l to r: Al Lide, L. Polite-Coleman, Peggy Lide, Betty Lide Parker

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bastille day at georges brasserie l to r: Jeff Conway, Paula Conway, Grant Schoonmaker, Lisa Buckner, Michelle Farkas

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scene around town

showering baby girl chappell ECFW Associate Editor Ashley Chappell and husband Zach celebrate the upcoming arrival of a baby girl with friends and family

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Your Escape from the Everyday

Affordable, high quality French fare, exquisitely prepared to order. Classic French country favorites served all day include pastries, full breakfast menu, salads, sandwiches, quiches and crepes. Full service dinner in a casual and comfortable European setting. We offer daily Chef Specials as well as regional specialties. We strive to make quality French food accessible to all!

Open Brunch, Lunch and Dinner

Monday - Thursday 9am - 9pm Friday 9:00 am - 10pm Saturday 9am - 10pm Sunday 9am - 3pm

Allen Tate Building at Phillips Place in SouthPark • 6700 Fairview Road, Suite 180 • Charlotte, NC

704-552-1116 | www.cafemonte.net