Iris Van Herpen: FW22

Words by Sophie Brassey

No one does Haute Couture quite like Iris Van Herpen. Each runway engulfs you in a world that transcends normality; her gowns bloom an organic presence which only becomes more captivating with each show. Van Herpen doesn’t just make clothes. She brings to life stories from her atelier in Amsterdam, each dress coming alive like some mythical creature.

Her recent FW 22 collection took inspiration from Greek Mythology, whose characters were stretched out and distorted into 16 beautiful looks. The runway is named ‘Metamorphosis’ after Ovid’s Epic poem, and has to be my favourite collection yet. I’m detailing my favourite looks from the show and the incredible story behind them.

The show’s opening look, named “genesis”, is created from sustainable off-white banana leaf fabric and green satin with gold embellishments. Two fabrics are hung over a see-through corset, as if effortlessly slung over the model. Its name, translating to “origin” in Greek, is fitting for the first gown. Draping references the ancient Greek garment ‘Chiton’, which was fashioned with pins. Here, we can see Van Herpen’s use of sustainable and innovative fabrics, which is a constant theme throughout the show. This dress is reminiscent of Greek gods and goddesses - the gold glaze gives the dress a holy feel, as if the material itself is radiating a warm glow.

White ribbons stitched into black glass-organza panels show the face of Narcissus. The dress tells the story of Narcissus through the multiple beautiful faces sewn into the garment two panels sandwich the model’s face, metaphoric of Narcissus being trapped in an obsession of his own beauty. The suspension of the garment from the body reflects losing your sense of self due to self-obsession, and the contrast of the colouring is symbolic of how contradictory this may seem.

The show’s final gown was based on the tragic love story of Apollo and Daphne. The dress, created from transparent white silk, is framed by laser-cut leaves. We can see the exact moment Daphne transforms herself into a laurel tree; foliage grows from the models hands, and wraps around her ankles. Much like Daphne was imprisoned by Apollo’s lust, the dress traps its wearer. The angelic gown appreciates Ovid’s sinister yet beautiful poem Traditionally, the final looks in Haute Couture shows are reserved for wedding gowns. By saving this last look for a white dress Van Hepren questions our long-established views on relationships, reminding us that love stories do not always end with a happily ever after..