28
may 2017
may 2017
Epoch Times
Epoch Times
Courtesy of Ji Xiang Confectionery Courtesy of Ji Xiang Confectionery
Handcrafting Traditional Ang Ku Kueh With Love Courtesy of Mr Kelvin Toh
By Jocelyn Neo and Li Yen Epoch Times Staff
N
estled among the row of shops on the ground floor of Block 1, in the serene neighbourhood of Everton Park, lies Ji Xiang Confectionery. This old-school confectionery shop, which specialises in ang ku kueh, has endured the test of time since it began operations in 1988. The Epoch Times was given a special treat of lovingly handmade ang ku kueh, while learning the stories and traditions behind this sweet pastry from manager Mr Kelvin Toh. Kelvin is the youngest son of the founders of Ji Xiang Confectionery. “Many people have the perception that ang ku kueh is a Peranakan snack,” says Kelvin. But no, ang ku kueh actually has its roots in China, he stresses. Ang ku kueh, also known as red tortoise cake, originated from southern Fujian. Dyed in red and moulded into the shape of a tortoise, ang ku kueh can be found in the Minnan region – namely Xiamen, Zhangzhou and Quanzhou in China – as well as directly across in Taiwan, which shares similar cultures and dialect.
Why is our skin so good? It is because we keep to tradition – handmade, and freshlymade. It’s so simple that people think that there is a secret. Mr Kelvin Toh, the youngest son of the founders of Ji Xiang Confectionery
(L – R) Ji Xiang Confectionery’s manager, Mr Kelvin Toh, with his family – mother Toh Bong Yeo, father Toh Poh Seek, sister-in-law and older brother Jack Toh.
Gradually, the making of ang ku kueh was passed down to the Southeast Asian region, such as Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. “The China version of ang ku kueh is very dry. It is made with less oil,” he points out.
The Southeast Asian version of ang ku kueh was actually influenced by the Straits Chinese. “When the babas and nyonyas started making ang ku kueh, they infused Peranakan-influenced ingredients, such as
Courtesy of Ji Xiang Confectionery
coconut milk and oil, to make it chewier and softer,” explains Kelvin, whose mother is Hokkien while his father is of Foochow descent.
Ang Ku Kueh – An Important Delicacy for Religious Festivals and Birthdays
“Many traditions are linked with food, and Chinese always offer food to the deities during prayers,” says Kelvin. We delved into the history of the red torBesides peanuts and sweet beans, the additoise cake and found that ang ku kueh is tional flavours – coconut, yam, salted bean, moulded to resemble a tortoise’s shell, as corn and durian – offered by Ji Xiang are the Chinese believe that the shell of the rather unique. The kueh are distinguished tortoise contains the secrets of heaven by their different skin colours. and earth. During China’s Shang dynasty (1766 – 1122 BC), the shells of this sacred animal were used in ceremonies to preing in 1986, but closed her home factory afdict the future. ter NEA’s crackdown on home-based food According to Chinese mythology, the businesses. Kelvin’s father, Mr Toh Poh phoenix, qilin (unicorn), dragon and torSeek, had no choice but to take up a loan to toise are the most auspicious animals. Inrent a shop to continue his wife’s business, cidentally, the tortoise is one of the longeven though she was reluctant initially. est surviving animals on earth, and it is Over the years, word of Ji Xiang’s regarded as a symbol of longevity, prosmouth-watering ang ku kueh began perity and wealth. As such, red tortoise spreading across Singapore. But how is a cake (or ang ku kueh) is usually prepared tiny shop able to make a name of its own for birthdays, such as a baby’s full month just by selling ang ku kueh for nearly and one-year-old birthdays, as well as an three decades? elder’s birthday. “You don’t need to do many trades; you Also, in ancient China, it was once a just need to specialise and be proficient custom for devotees to return the blessin one. That’s our secret – doing one ings of the deities by returning “tortoises” thing very well,” opines Kelvin, who is to the temples. in charge of Ji Xiang’s marketing and huHence, it is no surprise that red tortoise man resource. He has been calling the cake is an important delicacy for religious shots in the company’s e-commerce festivals like the Chinese New Year fesand social media platforms, as well as tival, Jade Emperor’s Birthday and many handling media interviews. other Chinese deities’ birthdays. For exKelvin’s sister-in-law and oldample, ang ku kueh is offered to the deities er brother, Jack Toh, helm the during Chinese New Year, with hope that business operation. His mother the sweetness from the kueh will leave still helps around the shop evesuch a sweet taste in the deities’ mouths ry day, overseeing the quality of that they will in turn speak well of them their signature ang ku kueh. in front of the Jade Emperor. Secret Recipe Besides offering red tortoise cake to Is there a “secret recipe” behind Ji Xithe deities, the popular kueh are also ang’s red tortoise cake, which lures loyal prepared during Qing Ming Festival and patrons all over Singapore to queue outHungry Ghost Festival. The Chinese honside its shop every morning to purchase our their ancestors with food items, such boxes of ang ku kueh? We quizzed Kelvin as ang ku kueh, on these occasions. Othabout the “secret ingredient” behind the er than dyeing the tortoise cakes red on kueh’s thin skin. Qing Ming, the kueh are also coated in In explaining the “secret recipe”, green or white colours to express Kelvin, who has a decade of exthe descendants’ grief and Ang ku kueh is perience working in the F&B their well wishes for their moulded to resemble industry before joining the ancestors’ afterlife. a tortoise’s shell, as family business two years Notably, “stepping on the Chinese believe ago, says candidly, “The ang ku kueh” is a Chithat the shell of the secret is keeping to tradinese tradition seen in tortoise contains the tion and hard work.” a one-year-old’s birthsecrets of heaven “Basically, the ingredients day celebration, which is and earth. are very simple. There is no gradually disappearing. It secret ingredient. It’s just basiis believed that when a onecally hard work,” he asserts. year-old child steps on a gigantic Ji Xiang currently hires 12 workers to pair of ang ku kueh, followed by stepgrind the fillings, cut the banana leaf and ping into a pair of new shoes, the child mould the kueh. will be ensured a smooth journey in life. “[It’s tedious] and repetitive work. It’s not “Stepping on ang ku kueh” also signifies easy to sit there and just mould the kueh,” the parents’ hope that the child will be laments Kelvin. “down-to-earth腳踏實地” in his future He adds that making thousands of ang undertakings. ku kueh each day is a painstaking task and In modern days, ang ku kueh has bethere will be much blood, sweat, and tears. come “more like a snack (which) we can Despite that, Ji Xiang still insists in keepbuy every day”, says Kelvin. ing to tradition when it comes to moulding “We feel very proud of what we are doing. the kueh, and is adamant against mechaWe think it is necessary to keep the tradinising the moulding process, as it will aftion of ang ku kueh alive. We have the refect the texture of the pastry. sponsibility,” he enthuses. “We have mechanised a lot of processes, Ji Xiang’s Beginnings from mixing to dividing the fillings. But Ji Xiang’s ang ku kueh recipe was handwe don’t want to mechanise moulding. We crafted by Kelvin’s mother, Bong Yeo, who still insist [on moulding] by hand,” he says. loves cooking. Moulding by hand? Perhaps that’s the The history of Ji Xiang dates back to 1988, secret behind the kueh’s delicate and when Mrs Toh ceased her home-based ang pleasantly chewy skin? ku kueh factory. She had started operatYes, Kelvin admits.
Ji Xiang currently hires 12 workers to grind the fillings, cut the banana leaf and mould the ang ku kueh.
Big ‘ang ku kueh’ (ka ta kueh). ‘Stepping on ang ku kueh’ is a Chinese tradition seen in a oneyear-old’s birthday celebration, which is gradually disappearing. It is believed that when a oneyear-old child steps on a gigantic pair of ang ku kueh, followed by stepping into a pair of new shoes, the child will be ensured a smooth journey in life. ‘Stepping on ang ku kueh’ also signifies the parents’ hope that the child will be ‘down-to-earth腳踏實地’ in his future undertakings.
Epoch Times
Ji Xiang Confectionery Address: Blk 1 #01-33 Everton Park, Singapore 081001 Tel: +65 6223 1631
Courtesy of Ji Xiang Confectionery
A Family’s Sweet Legacy:
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“Why is our skin so good? It is because we keep to tradition – handmade and freshlymade. It’s so simple that people think that there is a secret,” he discloses. “Our kueh are always fresh. We don’t sell overnight kueh and we produce the kueh daily. That’s our persistence through the years,” he affirms. “Our ang ku kueh are heartwarming gifts. We keep them warm by making the kueh by hand. We are selling ‘ren qing wei 人情味’ (the human touch),” he says with pride. He tells us it is crucial to keep to the tradition as loyal patrons visit Ji Xiang for the nostalgic feeling, as well as for the “Ah-Ma taste”. True enough, sometimes, the best culinary treat is that which retains tradition and simplicity at its core.
The Seven Flavours of Ji Xiang
For those who have tried and are familiar with ang ku kueh, peanuts and sweet beans are two typical flavours. Ji Xiang first started out with these two flavours and progressively increased to seven flavours. The additional flavours – coconut, yam, salted bean, corn and durian – offered here are rather unique. “Durian ang ku kueh is only available during the durian season,” says Kelvin. He emphasises that sweet bean is the most traditional flavour and as they added more flavours, the kueh are distinguished by their different skin colours. The salted bean kueh is distinguished by its black skin, while their corn-flavoured kueh has yellow skin. So what’s the difference between the sweet and salted bean kueh? The latter is “more savoury and has a bit of peppery taste”, explains Kelvin, who stood on the kitchen stool to cook at the tender age of four. He learned how to make his own instant noodles to feed himself and his younger sister when he was in Primary 1, as their parents were too busy at the shop. The yam flavour was included in the menu 10 years ago when he was still pursuing a Diploma in Pastry and Baking at Shatec, Kelvin says. “We have to include more flavours, or else the youngsters won’t fancy (the kueh),” he reasons. Ji Xiang has also reduced the amount of colouring and sugar to keep up with the times. “Singaporeans are getting more healthconscious. We have to keep up with the trends,” he remarks.