January 2022
Serving the Michigan, Indiana & Ohio Tri-State Horse Community
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Equine Times
January 2022
CLUB NEWS
Michigan Foxtrotting Horse Association Michigan Fox Association Michigan Fox Trotter Trotter Association
More will be shared about them in the coming months. We invite included a competition for the youth and adults to join in 2022. A single MFHA membership is only most ambitious member PROTECT YOUR LARGEwho BALE HAY INVE$TMENT! demonstrates their horsemanship PROTECT LARGE BALE HAY INVE$TMENT! skills in a wideYOUR variety of categories. Quarterly and year-end awards will be given. Go to www.michiganfoxtrotters.com to read the rules and print off the forms to join in on the friendly competition and fun. More Fox Trotters are slowly becoming available to purchase but they are selling fast. There is a good video on the correct Fox Trot gait posted on our Face Book site to refer to when you are considering an MFT to buy. Be sure to bring a knowledgeable person with you,too, when you narrow down your search. Breeders, Chuck Fanslow (riverflatranch.com) and Gale Gunders (989-534-1207), have well-gaited young stock available. They also have quality studs to breed to if you have a mare you want bred. Chuck has a Buckskin stallion and a palomino stallion(both sons of Cotton Eyed Joe). Gale has a spotted stallion who will throw color to your foal. Both are located in Gladwin,MI. x 78” 76” Contact them if you wantDimensions: to have your72” mare bred.x There Dimensions: 72” x 78” x 76” Weight: 230 lbs. Weight: 230 lbs.
Wemembership haveexpectation resources and of people available youat to these learn $15. The family is just $20.a Both are afor steal is nothing like the well-bred foal! from and breeders to refer you to if you want to pricesDon't compared to other breed associations. Go to michiganfoxtrotforget to transfer your newly-bought horse's buyoff a young one to train or if and you want to further tinghorse.com to print a membership form join this busy registration papers into your name with the MFTHBA,too. group ofthe enthusiasts whoyour lovepresent to promote, training with horse.host trail We are growing! member welcomes gomembers out to ridesNew and clinics for registered those interested in Thehold MFTHBA needs Naomi Haas, equinetolearning dentist Kris Modreske and Harry many things that Fox fill theirthe committees for 2021. I justTrotters agreed are known do.Trail LikeCommittee us on Facebook Struble all of MI. Naomi rides sorrel sabino gelding to help out on ato the again. too. Historically, Trotters need were (Dexter) and a blackSurely mareyou (Hank's Serenity Liberty Bell can,too! VariousFox committees used for plowing fields pulling members(younger ones too) for and their input B). Kris rides a black and white gelding (Radar's Spotted buggies, working cattle, competand advice togo increase numbers,think Prior). And congratulations toaffiliate Harry Struble on ingout in shows, as well as safely of ways to make the shows better,to improve and his purchase of Joe's Golden Chip, a handsome buckskin navigating the hilly terrain of okay National Trail Ride applications,give ideas on Ozark All mountains with gelding, from Chuck the Fanslow. these memclinics (let's get more closer their to oursurefooted state),getting more verand comfortbers are riding quality Fox Trotters!!! satility riders interested,give ideas on training and pickinggait. judges, plus able no-bounce Today New members are always welmore. Many positions can be supported remotely. a great they can be Also, foundthis all isover the toUSA www.michiganfoxway to meet those from other come! areas USA ofGo theand who raise,train and Europe pulling wagtrotters.com print off have the ride MFTs. I have made new friends this and way sleighs, whotoI would not ons camping and otherwise. Contact the MO Fox Trotting Horsecompeting Breeding membership form.Association meet trail riding, inWe 4-H and via www.mfthba.com to become adressage member and for information shows, county endurvirtually somore allfairs, members on helping out. ance competitions, versatility proare able to meet without grams, jumping breed show classes Also, PLEASE send in your MFTA dues and andinyour MFTHBA dues having to drive long disand in therapeutic riding programs for the asap! tances. handicapped. Fox Trotters are a wonderful family Wishing everyone a blessed and safe Christmas! Our Event horse. They are even-tempered and quick to Committee learn. They Respectfully submitted, come in many beautiful colors and inisvarious sizesMarilyn too. Start your busy planning the next Mannino search now. Once you ride one you will want one. Comebe geta involved clinic. It will Gaited in the exciting world of Fox Trotters!
Western Dressage Clinic at For the Finest STALLS Money Can Buy the end of May. More details
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next month. The clinician is Exhibition Stall. From Or OneAn Piece To An Entire Stall top-notch! Or An Exhibition Stall. SLIDING SWINGING DOORS A littleOR history on our breed: The pres-
ent-day Missouri Fox evolved from Morgans in SLIDING ORTrotter SWINGING DOORS New England being crossed with Arabians, Plantation Horses, American Saddlebreds, TWHs and pacing Standardbreds. The genetic mix of square-trotting horses and pacing horses created the comfortable fox trot gait! Missouri Fox Trotting horses have been used by farmers in Missouri and surrounding states to ride long distances to check their fencing and work cows, pull buggies, by US Forest Service workers, by mounted police and now people across the United States and Europe use them for recreation (showing, trail riding, Dressage,reining, 4H and Equestrian Team,that Hippotherapy,etc.). Design Stalls work for youThey and are yourtruly versatile and also can be found in all colors and sizes! Try Horses.... With Pieces one out and find out Component why everyone loves themorso!
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Hello December! Time is sure flying!! Marilyn Mannino Marilyn Mannino At our November meeting we elected some newHappy officers New for 2021. go out Foxtrotting Horse YearCongratulations from the Michigan Hello April! Spring is upon us! People are out Fox Association (MFHA)! to Bob Howell elected as the new MFTA PresTrotting and the weather. Many are accumulatDid you getenjoying a new FoxVP, Trotter forisChristmas? ident, Kathy Kruch is now Marilyn still ing points in the Versatility Challenges that we are offerOr are you intriguedChar by them? Secretary/Treasurer, Ostrom is the new Then we invite youth and adults to ing. 2-year Director and Miranda Mannino is now learn moreDirector. about them by joining Registration is still open the for all three Versatility the 1-year Michigan Fox Trotting We are accepting renewals Not Under Saddle Challenges (Under membership Saddle Horse Challenge, Association. We have been an affiliand new memberships for 2021 now. Youth Challenge). are Challenge andthirty Ultimate Horseman This proate for the past years of the encouraged to join too! Go to www.michiganfoxgram is designed to show how versatile the Missouri Fox Missouri Fox Trotter Horse Breed trotters.com to print off the form. You will learn alot Association based Trotter is. (mfthba.com) Registered and grade MFTs are allowed. from ourMissouri. membersFox about the history of Fox Trotters,their in Ava, Trotters are All handicapped regular through usesmost and comfortable availability and and beunique able toyouth network with those of us who the and adults are welcome. Every imaginable camp,train and show Our association is blessed to have skilled versatile gaited horse!them. That's why activity and category isto learn included trainers,breeders from. We love promoting this so many peopleand ridea farrier and drive from in they hand work Dressage, so versatile and come in breed as have greatto personalities,are them. many sizes and different coat colors. short distance trail riding toA benefit to joining is that we Our website and Facebook page can offer clinics at a reduced price to offer background, health, gait and endurance competitions and our members. Due to Covid we are meeting remotely each month. Michigan training information. We offer yearly clin- is a big state and this is a everything in-between (cow ics and trail colt startgood way torides. easilyWe seehave and offered talk with each other within and outside of work, driving, extreme trail, ing, gaiting, MI. Come join dressage, the fun! camping, obstacle and 4H and clinics open showing, horsemanship qualified instructors as well for 2021. Print Sign up now for with the popular Versatility Challenge parades, reining, trail mainteas trail rides including an annual MFTHBA National Trial off the enrollment form from our website. There are mayRide areas in (NTR). Our 2022 clinics We and NTR in the the non-rideable planning stages now. nance and more!). also are in which you can accumulate points-even months.
• Removable Grills Panels •• Panels Lazy Susan Susan Feeders Feeders •• Lazy • Water Bucket Doors • Water Bucket Doors Multiple Door Door Options Options •• Multiple
Weldy Enterprises • 911 E. Waterford St. Wakarusa, IN 46573 574-862-4491 • 800-628-4728 • FAX 574-862-2122 • email: info@weldyenterprises.com Equine Times
April 2021
December 2020 January 2022
Equine Times Equine Times
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How Much Drinking Water Does Your Horse Need? Ann M. Swinker The average horse will intake 5 to 10 gallons of fresh water per day. Water is needed to avoid colic, dehydration and death. Why Worry About Consumption of Water? Have you ever been frustrated by a horse that refuses to drink water? A metaphoric idiom that dates from the 12 century and was in the proverb collection of John Heywood in the year 1546 states: "You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink." The idiom can be interpreted to mean you can provide someone an opportunity to do something, but you cannot force them to actually do it; or people, like horses, will only do what they have a mind to do. Horse owners may think of this saying when experiencing a horse that refuses to drink. The comparison could be more than a message, for the lack of intake by a horse is an immense concern. Water consumption is extremely important in the digestive process to avoid colic impaction, dehydration and other life threatening ailments. How much water does a horse consume in a day? The average horse will intake 5 to 10 gallons of fresh water per day. Just like humans, different horses crave or need different water amount intakes. A horse deprived of feed, but supplied drinking water, is capable of surviving 20 to 25 days. A horse deprived of water may only live up to 3 or 6 days. After lacking water intake for two days a horse may refuse to eat and exhibit signs of colic and other life-threatening ailments. Just like humans, in the heat of summer, a horse will enjoy cool, fresh water, but in cold winter situations, difficulties arise in providing water that is too cold or in a semi-frozen state. Humans enjoy a
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cup of hot tea, coffee or chocolate to warm their internal system and needs in the winter. Horse owners have discovered that warming the drinking water for their horse during the winter will lead to the horse consuming more water. Domestic horses depend on the consumption of forage consisting of a variety of grasses and grass type feeds. In the summer if the horse has the advantage of daily grazing on fresh pasture grasses they will be able to consume water through the intake of grasses, which contain large amounts of water. This could reduce the desire of the horse of obtaining water through drinking. In the winter the horse depends upon the forage of dried grasses or hay, which has a lower amount of concentration of water. Therefore, a horse may need an increase of offered water in the winter months, more so than in the grazing periods. Seasonal Weather Conditions Concerns Just like the availability of water during the different temperatures of the seasons, the usage of a horse by humans is reflected by the seasonal weather conditions. Horse owners do not tend to ride or use their horses often during cold winter months. When spring arrives and progresses into the summer months, the horse has more activity by the use of pleasure riding, trail riding, showing, farm and ranch work. Lack of water consumption by the horse during this time of usage could lead to dehydration. Dehydration in horses is an extremely serious situation and can occur during strenuous exercise, stressful situations, or in cases of bouts of diarrhea. The lack of water can include the lack of electrolytes. Electrolytes include the minerals sodium, chloride and potassium and the lack of electrolytes can lead to kidney failure in the horse, if the horse is not rehydrated quickly.
Horse owners can suspect dehydration in their horse by recognizing the signs: sunken eye or dullness, lethargy, dry skin and mouth, drawn up flanks, depression or excessive thick saliva. Another sign of dehydration is a high level of protein in the blood, which can be determined by a blood sample. The horse many exhibit one or a combination of these signs. A simple, but not always accurate way to judge dehydration in horses is to conduct a simple skin pinching test. Pinch up a fold of the horse's skin and then release it. Skin should immediately return back into its natural position. If the skin remains in a ridge from two to five seconds this could be a sign of mild dehydration. The longer the skin remains in a ridge can determine the severity of the lack of water in the horse's system. Skin that remains in a ridge appearance for ten to fifteen seconds is the alert for immediate veterinary assistance, for the skin is demonstrating severe dehydration signs. Water Availability Offer the horse cool fresh water often during strenuous activities. If the horse is at a location where the drinking water does not have the same taste as the home water the horse may refuse to drink.
Before going to an event try flavoring the home drinking water for a few days prior to the journey with Gatorade or apple juice to accustom the horse to the flavor. For the convenience of the horse owner prepared powdered electrolyte packets, flavored or unflavored, can be adding to drinking water to replenish necessary items. Simple Management Practices Horse owners can enact simple management practices during stressful events preventing the horse from dehydration effects. Know you horse and look for the signs of dehydration and conduct the "pinch test" frequently. Provide adequate fresh, clean water often and if there is any doubt of the possibility of the severity of the situation contact a veterinarian immediately. The rule of thumb is, if at the event you are consuming and desiring water intake, then the chances are the horse is also having the same desires. Riding horses is great exercise for the rider and also an additional strain on the horse's metabolism. Be safe and smart... keep the horse hydrated!
Winter Horseback Riding Many riders experience the outside winter weather astride their horse Ann M. Swinker
There might be times when you wish you could ride your horses during the winter months, even in the coldest of weather. When conditions are not slippery, riding can be excellent exercise for rider and horse. What to Remember If you are riding in cold weather, you must take special care when cooling out horses or you will be guilty of inflicting another form of winter stress. Other stresses are decreased water intake, increased energy needs (increased calories) and seeking comfort (standing out of drafts or standing in the sun). In addition your horse's work/training schedule may become somewhat altered or stopped in the winter months. Therefore, your horse maybe get somewhat out-ofshape and not be ready for a full riding session, so instead consider a long walk or gentle jog that might do the equine and
rider plenty of good. If your horse is out of condition do not force a lot of exercise during bitter cold temperature. However, equine are very capable of handling the cold temperatures and weather conditions that make most humans huddle inside. How To Cool Out Your Horse If a horse has exerted itself to the point where it is wet with sweat beneath the saddle, use special care to prevent chilling. Sudden changes in body temperature, such as a cold wind blowing on a sweaty back, can have harmful results. However, placing a heavy insulated blanket on the horse immediately after unsaddling might do more harm than good. The heavy covering can trap moisture between skin and blanket, preventing the horse from drying. Place a light blanket over the sweating horse in cold weather and lead it around until the hair is dryer. The exercise of walking helps keep the body from cooling too rapidly, and the light
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blanket protects from wind and cold while allowing moisture to evaporate. When the horse's coat is dry, remove the now-damp light blanket and either turn the horse out or cover it with a dry blanket. If your horse is breathing heaving with flaring nostrils after exercising, then you may need an extra-long cooling out period before returning the equine to the stall or turnout area. Riders Need to Dress Accordingly You need to prepare yourself for the cold. Dress in layers so that you can maintain a comfortable body temperature. Just as you want to prevent your horse from becoming chilled from perspiration, people should also avoid excessive perspiration. Layering apparel allows you to add or remove clothing easily as your body temperature changes. With a little bit more consideration for both horse and rider winter riding can be enjoyed and both can experience the exhilaration of being in a winter wonderland.
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The Scoop on Grains and Concentrates There are a variety of types and forms of feed that can be fed to horses. The sheer number of choices can be overwhelming! Bethany Bickel Sweet feed, pelleted feed, oats, corn, ration balancer, oh my! In a perfect, less complicated world, all horses, from pasture pets to growing yearlings to horses in heavy work, could all be fed the same feed. In reality, our horses’ changing nutritional needs throughout various life stages make this concept impossible and require specific diets for each horse. There are a variety of types and forms of feed that can be fed to horses. The sheer number of choices in the feed store can be overwhelming! Many horses are fed a combination of forage (typically hay or pasture) with a grain mix. Our choices are guided by our horses’ requirements, availability of forages, and cost of feed. Some horses look great on a simple diet of mainly forage, while for other horses finding the right diet to keep them healthy can be difficult. For example, the horse may have a hard time gaining or losing weight. It is important to learn how to feed your horse so that they get all the nutrients they need. Factors that influence a horse’s nutrition requirements include breed, weight, body condition, age, growth stage, breeding status (for both stallions and mares), and performance and training levels. The foundation of any horse’s diet should be forage. Concentrates Concentrates include feed such as sweet feed, grains, and pellets, and they are typically added to a horse’s diet to compensate for any nutrient insufficiencies in forages. Working, growing, and pregnant/lactating horses typically need more energy or protein than hay or pasture can offer alone. It may be necessary to provide these types of horses with concentrates. Many “easy keeper” horses do not need grain at all if they are on high-quality forage and many simply require a vitamin/mineral supplement or ration balancer. Horses should be fed concentrates as a supplement to their forage-based diet; remember that horses
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should be given ~2% of their BW as feed daily, and at a minimum, at least 50% of that feed should be forage. Grains There are a number of different grains that are commonly fed to horses. Grains, referred to as ‘cereals’ or ‘cereal grains’ are the edible seeds of specific grasses. The most common are oats, corn, and barley. Milo (sorghum) and wheat are other grains that are fed to horses as well. Grains such as oats, barley, and corn can be fed whole, though many are typically processed to increase digestibility. Examples of how cereal grains may be processed include steam flaking, crimp rolling, extruding, and cracking. Grains are in general low in fiber and high in energy (particularly if processed), but there are differences in the relative amount of different nutrients in each cereal grain. For example, corn is higher in energy than oats or barely. Oats, one of the most popular grains to feed horses, are higher in fiber than corn and barley. Again, processing these grains will improve digestibility; in other words, processing grains will increase the amount of nutrients that the horse can get from the grain. These days, grain is rarely fed by itself as a concentrate; instead, it is often incorporated into pellets or mixed with pellets to make sweet feed. Commercial Grain & Pellet Mixes Commercial grain and pellet mixes are another feed option for your horse. They contain a mix of concentrates which provide energy, protein, vitamins, and minerals that are specific are balanced based on a horse’s nutrient needs. Commercial mixes eliminate the guesswork of providing the appropriate amounts of minerals and vitamins in balanced quantities. Adding additional grains to commercial mixes will interfere with the nutritional balance of the feed. Sweet feed/textured Feed Textured feeds are a mixture of several cereal grains and molasses (which is why it is often referred to as sweet feed).
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A balancer pellet is often included providing minerals and vitamins. Other ingredients may also be added such as rice bran, beet pulp and powdered fat. Sweet feed is palatable to most horses. This sweet-smelling feed may mold if stored or kept in hot, humid areas. The addition of molasses eliminates dust and increases palatability. Pelleted Feed Pelleted feeds often contain the same ingredients as sweet feeds. The ingredients are first ground, then steam-treated, and then forced through a pelleting die. Pellets stop picky eaters from sorting ingredients in their feed. Pelleted feeds have a longer shelf life and are not as likely to mold. It is important to note that hay pellets are different from pelleted feeds and are considered a form of forage, not concentrate. Extruded Feed Similar to pelleted feed, extruded feeds are uniform, and the horse will not be able to pick through the ingredients. It is prepared the same way as pelleted feed but has an additional step where the feed is “cooked” under high temperature and pressure before it goes through a die. This helps to break down some of the structures within the nutrients of the feed. It often has a higher fat concentration than pellets. Texture wise, it is typically softer and less dusty as well. Complete Feed “Complete” describes a feed that contains everything the horse needs in his diet, including the forage. Complete feeds can be fed as the sole ration. Senior horses that have lost the ability to chew hay will benefit from a complete feed. Medical conditions may require the use of complete feed, for example when dust or hay irritate the airway. Complete feeds can serve as an alternative option when good hay quality is limited in your area as well. Ration Balancers Ration balancers are designed to be fed along with forages to horses that do not need additional energy (calories) from
concentrates but do need additional protein, vitamins, and minerals. Ration balancers are a pelleted feed. They typically have low crude fiber and fat. The first ingredient is often soybean meal, making them high in protein. It is a heavily fortified feed with small daily recommended feedings. The purpose of a ration balancer is to provide your horse with the essential nutrients that are insufficient in a forage-based diet. Ration balancers provide a good amount of calcium and other key macro-minerals, trace minerals and fat-soluble vitamins. They are not intended to be fed for extra calories. They often have a high percentage of protein, but this is because such small amounts are fed (1-2 pounds per day). If your horse needs additional vitamins and minerals but not protein, then a vitamin/mineral
supplement would be a more appropriate option. Tips on Feeding Concentrates When feeding commercial concentrates, make sure to follow the feeding instructions on the label. They are carefully formulated to meet your horse’s needs, but only if you feed the right amount. The label will specify how much to feed based on your horse’s body weight. If you only feed half the recommended amount or dilute it by adding whole grains or mixing in another feed, then the benefit of a carefully balanced feed is gone. You may notice that the feeding instructions are in pounds, not quarts or scoops. If you feed by scoop, use a kitchen scale to figure out how much one scoop of each feed weighs, then figure out how many scoops are required to meet the
recommended feeding amount. A scoop of pellets will not weigh the same as a scoop of sweet feed, so do this for each different product in your feed room. Lastly, if you have to cut back a horse’s grain to below the recommended amount because it is gaining too much weight, then consider switching it to a ration balancer instead. Providing a properly balanced diet for your horse is the most significant part of horse ownership and is a key part of keeping your horse healthy. If you rely on a boarding facility, or if you are the sole caregiver for your horse, it is important to understand how to properly feed them. Your veterinarian, extension specialist, or an equine nutritionist are great resources to aid in developing a diet that meets your horse’s nutrient needs.
Body Image Perception in Female Equestrians Dr. Krishona Martinson Female body image has been investigated in many sports, yet in female-dominated equestrianism, there is a lack of body image research. This study, conducted in the United Kingdom, aimed to identify self-perceptions of body image, rider perceptions of judge and coach bias, relationships between body image and self-consciousness, and effect of breast size. A survey was completed by almost 500 adult female equestrians in the United Kingdom. A relatively small body frame was considered ideal for equestrianism regardless of age, own body image, or level of riding commitment. There was a perception judges favor riders with smaller frames and an association between riders with a larger body image feeling self-conscious when riding. More respondents perceived the ideal equestrian body image to be smaller than theirs and an association between those dissatisfied with their body image and self-consciousness when riding was seen which may negatively impact self-confidence, potentially hindering performance and participation. There was an association between riders with larger breasts and greater reporting of breast
pain while riding and being more self-consciousness while competing. Female riders with a larger frame feel they are perceived negatively by judges and further study is needed to investigate the extent of this potential bias on subjective judging in equestrian disci-
plines. For more information on this research, read the abstract published in the Journal of Equine Veterinary Science at https://www.sciencedirect. com/science/article/abs/pii/ S0737080621004068?via%3Dihub.
Female body image has been investigated in many sports, yet in female-dominated equestrianism, there is a lack of body image research. Sportsline Photography
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Equine Times
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Building from the Ground Up Safe Ground Handling of Horses
Safety is first and foremost and should always be considered when working with horses. To safely work with your horse, you first need to understand several key points of equine behavior. Bethany Bickel Safety is first and foremost and should always be considered when working with horses. To safely work with your horse, you first need to understand several key points of equine behavior. Horses are equipped with survival traits that shape their responses from stimuli and their environment. Animals react to new situations by either fearing it, and fleeing, or by ignoring it, and later exploring if they feel there is nothing to fear. Falling under the category of prey, horses would rather flee, meaning they have a very quick response time to situations. Have you ever heard someone describe their horse as spooky? That spookiness is commonly referred to as bad behavior, when in fact it's just your horse's instinct. Now that you understand some of the "why" behind your horse's behavior, let's begin with more of the basics. Approaching the Horse Move confidently and slowly when approaching a horse; walk, never run. Approach the horse from the front, toward their shoulder. Speak to the horse when approaching and extend your hand. When approaching from the rear, place your hand on their hip, and keep a hand on the horse, rubbing or patting until you reach the head area. If the horse begins to move away, stop, wait until the horse stops, then attempt to approach again. You should always pay attention to the head, ears, neck, and body position because these are good indicators of what your horse is thinking and feeling. Leading When attempting to lead your horse there are a few key points to always remember. Always use a lead rope, do not hold onto the halter, and never wrap the lead rope around your hand. Stand to the left side or the near side of the horse's throat latch area. Hold the lead about six inches from the halter. When leading, extend your right elbow toward the horse and keep your knuckles on top of the lead.
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Horses should not pull or push you when leading but walk quietly and obediently beside you. If the horse makes contact with you, it should hit your elbow first and move away from you. Never stand, lead, or back up from directly in front of the horse. Tying The 4 key items to remember are level, length, location, and knot. Use a halter and lead, never tie a horse by the bridle and reins. Never attach a lead rope to the bit to tie. Tie a horse at wither height or higher, some may refer to it as "eye high." The lead length should be about an arm's length, approximately 18-24 inches. The lead should be tied short enough, so the horse does not become entangled, or get a foot over the lead. When looking for an appropriate place to tie, look for something solid: a wall with a tie ring or a sturdy post. Do not tie to fence board, rail, or any other moveable object. Always tie a horse at the correct level, a safe and sturdy location, and by using a quick release or safety knot. Cross-ties may be another option for securing your horse. A safe cross-tie area has a solid barrier behind the horse. A solid barrier will prevent the horse from fighting the cross-ties and panicking. Rubber matting or other non-slip footing will help to eliminate the horse from slipping. Eye bolts for cross-ties should be attached to something structurally sound, like a beam or stud. Bolts should attach to the wall or post at a distance higher than the withers of your tallest horse. This will help ensure the horse doesn't pull the ties out of the wall. When determining proper length keep in mind the cross-tie snaps should barely touch each other in the middle. This length will prevent the horse from getting tangled or turned around. You may even want quick-release snaps on each end of the ties, or a combination of quick-release snaps at the halter end If the horse is new to cross-ties, and they tend to pull on them, you can use short lengths of breakable twine between the cross-tie and the wall. The twine acts as a safe breakaway if the horse would panic and begin to pull.
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Keeping the lead rope attached to the halter will allow you to correct their behavior as needed. Watch the head area, it should be as still as the body if the horse moves excessively, tug the lead, and guide them back to the center. Grooming Grooming is an important part of your horse's health. Grooming removes dirt, dandruff, and other debris. Routine grooming helps keep skin healthy. Brushes and combs you may use in your daily grooming could be a rubber curry, stiff and soft brushes, and a mane and tail comb. A towel may be helpful to finish grooming your horse. When moving from side to side, remember to never go under your horse's neck, and keep your free hand on them while grooming. Why is it unsafe to go under their neck? It is unsafe because a horse can't see directly below its head. As with leading and backing your horse, you want to avoid standing directly in front or behind the horse while grooming. Picking up and Cleaning Hooves Horses should stand willingly to have their feet cleaned, trimmed, and/or shod. Before you ask your horse to pick a foot up, make sure your horse is standing somewhat square and balanced on all four feet. Be sure to stand close when picking up the feet, and let the horse know what you plan to do. Never reach and quickly grab the foot. When cleaning the front and hind feet, you should stand facing the rear of the horse. Ask the horse to pick up the foot by applying pressure to the leg: if necessary, lean into the horse's shoulder to shift their weight. Clean the hoof from the heel toward the toe, starting on either side of the frog, picking away from you. Remember, even though your horse is older and seasoned, they still think of themselves as prey. The unexpected can always happen! Basic safety procedures and practices are essential in providing a safe and enjoyable experience for both you and your horse. Safe ground handling is important no matter what breed, type, or age of horse you work with.
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Mold and Mycotoxins in Horse Hay Hay with a high moisture content is at risk for developing mold. There are a variety of health risks for horses that consume moldy hay. Donna Foulk Be kind to your hay producer – especially this year. Saying that hay-making conditions have been challenging is a huge understatement. Many areas of Pennsylvania saw record levels of rainfall and many locations failed to experience more than 3 days in a row without rain. The following information summarizes some of the conditions that can occur when hay is produced during wet and humid conditions, as well as tips on feeding hay that has been treated with propionic acid to prevent mold growth. What Causes Mold to Grow on Hay? Much hay has been rained on or left lying in the field for prolonged periods of time due to excessively wet and humid conditions. The long drying periods with high humidity can allow mold to grow on the hay in the field. Rain and poor drying weather has caused some hay to be baled wetter than desired. With high humidity, normal drying in storage may not occur and hay can retain elevated levels of moisture allowing mold growth. Mold and bacteria will grow on hay (without preservative added) at moisture levels above 14% to 15%. The mold growth produces heat, carbon dioxide and water, which further damages the hay. Moldy hay can result in dry matter and nutrient loss and produce spores and dust. Drying of stored hay is enhanced by increasing ventilation, creating air spaces between bales, reducing stack size, and stacking in alternating directions. Since moisture tends to move up and out the top of a stack of bales, ample headspace should be provided above a stack in a barn, allowing moisture to evaporate.
Molds commonly found in hay include Alternaria, Aspergillus, Cladosporum, Fusarium, Mucor, Penicillium, and Rhizopus. These molds can produce spores that cause respiratory problems, especially in horses and, under some conditions, will produce mycotoxins. Horses are particularly sensitive to dust from mold spores and can develop a respiratory disease like asthma in humans called Recurrent Airway Obstruction (RAO), commonly referred to as heaves. A horse with RAO will have a normal temperature and a good appetite, but will often have decreased exercise tolerance, coughing and nasal discharge. Labored breathing occurs during exercise and, in some cases, while at rest. Hypertrophy of the abdominal oblique muscle used for expiration creates the characteristic 'heave line' seen on horses with RAO. Some horses are highly allergic to certain mold spores while others seem to be minimally affected. Strategies to reduce dust exposure are as follows: • Do not feed dusty and moldy hay and grains. • Keep horses outside as much as possible. • Place feed at a lower level so particles are not inhaled through the nostrils. • Feed hay outside to minimize dust problems. • In severe cases, hay cubes may replace hay. • Soak dusty hay for 5 to 30 minutes before feeding. This will help minimize respiratory problems associated with dust and mold spores but will not reduce the threat of mycotoxin contamination. • Store hay away from your horse as much as possible and ensure any hay in the vicinity is kept dry to reduce mold. • If the horse is housed indoors, ensure
Mold Spore count per gram
Feeding Risk and Cautions
Fruits and Vegetables Grass clippings Leaves, weeds Manure Coffee Grounds Egg Shells
Relatively low Risk Relatively Safe Feed with Caution Closely observe animals and performance Dilute with other feeds Discontinue feeding
*Risks refer primarily to effect of mold without regard to possible mycotoxin content. Dust may also reduce feed consumption.
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that there is good, draft-free ventilation. Table 1 contains classification of risks at various mold spore counts. While most molds do not produce mycotoxins, the presence of mold indicates the possibility of mycotoxin presence and animals being fed moldy hay should be watched carefully for mycotoxin symptoms. What are Mycotoxins and How Can They Affect My Horse? High moisture hay can also lead to the proliferation of bacteria, molds and fungus that can produce mycotoxins that are dangerous to horses and other livestock species. Some forage laboratories will test for the presence of mold and mycotoxins. If hay is moldy, do not feed it. Although the effects of mycotoxins on horses are not well documented in scientific literature, in field situations apparently mycotoxin problems appear to be significant. Mycotoxins have been implicated in a variety of health problems including colic, neurological disorders, paralysis, hypersensitivity, and brain lesions. The cumulative effect of feeding low levels of mycotoxins may also contribute to a gradual deterioration of organ functions. Other symptoms of mycotoxins in forages include: Intake reduction or feed refusal. Reduced nutrient absorption and impaired metabolism, including altered digestion and microbial growth, diarrhea, intestinal irritation, reduced production, lower fertility, abortions, lethargy, and increased morbidity. Alterations in the endocrine and exocrine systems. Suppression of the immune system, which predisposes horses to many diseases. Cellular death causing organ damage. What is Propionic Acid and Why is it Used on Hay? Some hay growers apply preservatives (organic acids, yeast cultures, enzymes, etc.) to prevent the growth of the bacteria and fungi that sometimes cause heat, musty odor and mold in inadequately dried hay. Most preservatives applied to horse hay contain organic acids that are the same as those found in the horse's gastrointestinal tract. Propionic and acetic acid, the most common organic acids in hay preservatives,
are produced naturally in the cecum and colon of the horse because of microbial digestion of fibrous feeds. These organic acids can be used as mold inhibitors and applied when hay is not yet dry enough to bale safely, but rain is coming, and the crop may be lost if not baled early. Studies have shown a decrease in the heating and molding of hay during storage with the use of preservatives. A study conducted at the University of Illinois found that yearlings receiving hay treated with a mixture of propionic and acetic acids consumed just as much hay and gained just as much weight over a onemonth feeding trial as yearling's consuming untreated hay. Clinical measures of the horses' wellbeing were not affected by consumption of preservative-treated hay, indicating that the hay had no negative effects
on the horses. A study conducted at Cornell University showed that when given a choice, horses preferred untreated alfalfa to alfalfa that was treated with a mixture of propionic and acetic acid. However, when only given the choice of acid treated hay, the horses readily consumed it. Thus, after a short conditioning period, horses will consume acid-treated hay. However, caution should be used when feeding hay that was baled at very high moisture levels, using higher levels of propionic acid. It is important to let that hay cure for several weeks so that the acid has time to dissipate and the hay has a chance to cure. This is especially true when feeding large round and square bales. There have been suspected cases of colic when horses were fed hay baled at very high moisture levels (29%) containing high levels of acid.
Hay that is baled at high moisture levels should not be stored beneath or next to hay that was baled at appropriate moisture levels without the addition of an acid preservative. The moisture dissipating from the acid treated hay can move into the dry hay and cause it to mold. How Can I Determine If my Hay Contains Harmful Levels of Mold and Mycotoxins? Many forage laboratories provide an analysis of the nutritional value of hay. Some laboratories will also test hay and grain samples for molds and mycotoxins: Cumberland Valley Ag Analytical Services (foragelab.com) Skyview Laboratory (skyviewlaboratory.com) Equi-Analytical Laboratories (equi-analytical.com)
Setting a trail course for success Taylor Fabus
Competing in a trail class with your horse can be an intimidating and difficult endeavor. Even the most talented horse and rider combination can be challenged by a well-designed trail course, and unfortunately, a poorly-designed trail course can go from challenging to impossible for even the most seasoned exhibitors. In this article, we will discuss several commonly-seen mistakes in poorly-designed trail patterns and how to fix or prevent them, all with the goal of setting exhibitors up for success. Know your measurements If you are involved in creating or setting a trail course in any way, you should be familiar with the appropriate measurements obstacles are to be set at, provided in the Michigan 4-H Horse and Pony Project Show Rules and Regulations, which is available to download for free from Michigan State University Extension. These measurements are the industry standards and follow the American Quarter Horse Association’s guidelines. A trail course used in competition should never be set without using a measuring device. Never just guess, eyeball or use your own feet to measure. The space between the logs is to be measured and the path the horse is to take should be the measuring point. Measurements are provided and should be followed for several reasons. They provide consistency between exhibitors. This means that any time a pole or any object is hit by a horse, measurements should be checked before the next exhibitor is allowed on course. They allow obstacles to be spaced according to an average horse’s stride length. This
will reduce the number of times an obstacle is hit by horses and reduce the time needed to fix and remeasure obstacles. A common misconception is that a small pattern equals a quick pattern, resulting in a shorter show. The opposite is actually true—a pattern not spaced for an average horse’s stride is likely to trap exhibitors into making more mistakes and require more re-setting of obstacles. The measurements are as follows: Enough space must be provided for a
horse to jog at least 30 feet and lope at least 50 feet for the judges to evaluate these gaits. Walk-overs should be spaced in increments of 20 – 24 inches apart. Trot-overs should be spaced in increments of 3 – 3.5 feet apart. Lope-overs should be spaced in increments of 6 – 7 feet apart. Wooden bridges must be a minimum 3-feet wide and 6-feet long. Back-through obstacles between cones
Author Taylor Fabus and her horse Ozzie competing in a trail class. Taylor Fabus
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Setting a trail course for success must be spaced a minimum of 28 inches apart. Back-through obstacles between poles must be spaced a minimum of 36 inches apart. These are the minimum measurements for the most-skilled horse and rider. At an entry-level competition, it would make sense for these back-through obstacles to be wider to allow more exhibitors to successfully navigate the obstacles. Boxes made of poles should be 5-to-8foot squares. If you ask the exhibitors to travel through a box without stopping, you must create a box that allows for the appropriate stride distances mentioned above. This may mean overlapping poles or not having poles touch at each corner. Additionally, asking exhibitors to stop in a box from any gait faster than a walk is very difficult and should be reserved for advanced divisions only. Allow room for transitions All too often, trail courses are set accord-
ing to a picture or drawing of a pattern in an arena that may or may not be to scale. When setting a course based on a drawn pattern, the course setters must make accommodations for the overall arena size, the footing, the space needed to complete each obstacle and the amount of space needed between obstacles. Course designers and setters should not think, “Can a good horse squeeze in this amount of space?” but instead ask themselves, “Is this enough room for a large horse to comfortably perform a credit-earning maneuver here?” Never set-up a pattern to create an unnecessary challenge for a horse and rider. A talented horse and rider will rise to the top in a pattern that is set up appropriately, providing consistent and ample space for each maneuver to be performed. On the other hand, a more novice duo may be able to perform the obstacles without the added difficulty from a poor set up, and they’ll more likely
Use this handy graphic to help remember how to correctly measure poles in a trail class. Taylor Fabus
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be encouraged to come back and try again. Let the judge place the class Do not design a pattern that places the class. What do I mean? A judge never wants to place a class based on the “best of the worst” or have the winner be whomever could make it through with the least number of penalties. A well-designed trail course will allow the judge to evaluate exhibitors based on the number of positive, credit-earning maneuvers, no matter the skill level of the horses and riders. Talk about a judge’s dream come true! This would mean that whomever creates the pattern should be very familiar with the level of exhibitors that will be competing. Beginner-level patterns should look much different than an advanced-level class. The elusive 12-foot pole Here’s the dilemma: Most patterns are designed to use 12-foot poles while most horse shows have only 8-foot poles. This means that serious considerations and alterations must be made when laying out a trail course. A great example is when poles are set in a “fan” or “wagon wheel”—think of laying out a + (plus) sign with poles. Even with 12-foot poles, they should not touch at the center of the fan/wagon wheel/+ sign. A cone should be placed in the center and the inner-most edge of a 12-foot pole should be 2.5 feet from the edge of the cone. This will essentially create a circle with a 29-foot diameter. If an 8- foot pole is being used for this obstacle, the innermost edge of the pole should be 6.5 feet from the cone placed in the center. This will create a path that will allow a horse to successfully travel the circle or curve. The path of travel that should be measured for stride distances three-fourths of the distance down the pole (towards the outside of the circle). Trust me, this one is a game changer for most shows; replacing 12-foot poles with 8-foot poles without making alterations is an all-too commonly made mistake. In addition, a wagon wheel is a very difficult obstacle for even seasoned competitors and shouldn’t be over-utilized at entry-level shows. If a wagon wheel is utilized, consider having exhibitors only travel over one or two poles at a time. Patterns can also be designed so that exhibitors are to “go out” and “come back in” to the wagon wheel. Ask for help Reach out to seasoned exhibitors in the area or a local judge. Most seasoned competitors and judges would be happy to help in their area of expertise. They can create patterns for you or review ones that you’ve created. The same can be said once the pattern is set up in the arena. Additionally, the judge should always walk and measure the course before the class begins.
Ask the Expert: Fall and Winter Grazing Dr. Krishona Martinson
In a recent Facebook post, you recommended keeping horses off pasture for 7 days after the first killing frost and during the winter months. My horses graze 24-7-365 without issue. Same for wild horses, no one is keeping them off pasture during these times. How can you make this recommendation? Our recommendations are rooted in research with the goal of providing the highest quality of care and reducing the risk of unintended, negative consequences to both horse and pasture health. First, it’s important to recognize the vast differences between wild horses and domesticated horses. Wild horses walk miles each day for food and water, pastures are sparse and not maintained, their body condition varies widely with the seasons and availability of food, horses weakened from disease (e.g. laminitis) are preyed upon by predators and naturally removed from the herd, and have relatively short life spans. In comparison, most domesticated horses have high quality food and water brought to them, are kept in smaller stalls, pens, and paddocks or graze on well maintained and improved pastures, are maintained year-around at ideal (or higher) body condition, are carefully cared for when diagnosed with a disease, and live well into their 20s and 30s. Therefore, domesticated and wild horses are not comparable when talking about management recommendation designed for todays domesticated horse. While grazing 24-7-365 might work for your horses and management scenario, it won’t work for everyone and presents a higher risk of negative health issues. Healthy adult horses are at a relatively low risk of health issues if allowed to graze after the first killing frost or during the winter months. However, it’s estimated that 35% of horses in the U.S. are overweight and a similar percentage have been diagnosed with a disease or disorder that warrants restriction of nonstructural carbohydrates. These horses are at a much higher risk of health issues if allowed to graze after a killing frost or during the winter months due to elevated amount of nonstructural carbohydrates in forage. It’s also important to know that risk levels can change. Younger, active, fit, and disease/disorder free horses are at a lower risk of adverse health issues compared to ones who are older, heavier, less active and fit, or have been diagnosed with a disorder or disease. From a pasture risk perspective, it’s been proven time and time again that continuous grazing reduces pasture yield, quality, and longevity. While owners may not notice a decline in pasture productivity immediately, a continuously grazed pasture will not last nearly as long as one that is rotationally grazed. Rotationally grazed pastures can last indefinitely, especially if all pasture best management practices are followed (e.g. mowing, resting, fertilizing, dragging, and controlling weeds). The only exception to this is if the stocking density far exceeds geographical recommendations (e.g. in Minnesota, the stocking density is estimated at 2 acres of pasture per adult horse). We realize management recommendations are not a one size fits all and just because a recommendation is made, does not mean it must be followed. We strive to provide owners and managers current, research-based information so they can make the best decisions for their horses and scenarios while helping to reduce the inherent risk associated with horse ownership and management. January 2022
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How hard is your head? Andrea Kocher Unfortunately, equestrian accidents and falls can happen at any time. While these accidents are a part of the equestrian world there are pieces of equipment that can help prevent some of the injuries that make these accidents life changing, if not life threatening. In this case, we are talking about headgear designed specifically for the equestrian. And we are talking about accidents that can occur in every discipline, to riders who are youth, adult amateur, or professionals! No one is exempt from a potentially life changing incident. As more and more medical communities, equestrian organizations, and local and national sports organizations become aware of the dangers of multiple injuries to an athlete's head, the safest methods of protecting the brain has become a science, an industry, and even a mandate. While no helmet can protect against every head injury, studies show a dramatic reduction in the severity of injuries when a properly fitted helmet is worn every time you ride a horse. • In the United States, each year approximately 70,000 people are treated in emergency rooms because of equestrian related activities. • 60% or more of horse-related deaths are caused by head injuries. • Helmets can reduce this possibility by 70-80%. • Equestrian head injuries were the leading cause for hospital admission in patients with equestrian-related injuries. • Helmets that are not safety certified offer no protection whatsoever and are strictly for cosmetic purposes. • ASTM/SEI approved helmets have reduced all riding-related head injuries by 30% and severe head injuries by 50%. Design Helmets for each sport have design characteristics and safety features specifically for that activity. So, if you are riding horses, wear a helmet specifically designed for riding horses. You Page 14
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wouldn't wear figure skates to play hockey. The design of equestrian helmets protect a rider's head in two ways. First, your helmet cannot be pierced by sharp objects, such as sticks, jump cup pins, and other various materials found on trails or in the ring. The second way is through the combination of the helmet and the foam to cushion your head from hard impacts. These are the reason for safety standards and testing. Any model of ASTM/SEI approved equestrian helmet is tested in a lab to be sure they meet or exceed required standards of safety. Proof of this is the SEI seal inside the helmet. Equestrian helmets have a unique design different from helmets from other sports. Made in various shapes and many different sizes, some of the differences are that they cover a broader area of the head, and they account for the potential differences of performance, such as the terrain, speed of travel, and the natural objects that may suddenly become an issue for the horse. While your bike or your skis do not have a mind of their own, your horse certainly does! Another feature is that the helmet is designed to slide across environmental objects like a broken log or sharp stick. The retention system (harness) is designed to secure the helmet to the rider, but the helmet should be light enough to not interfere with balance and abilities. Different styles of helmets have different retention systems. Be sure you read the instructions for adjustment of your helmet. Helmet Build The foam in your helmet is designed to protect your head in the case of a serious fall or other forceful impact. Concussion against the helmet during impact can cause the foam to flatten. Unlike memory foam, this foam never recovers and may no longer be as protective as it was prior to impact. After a helmet has been in that situation it needs to be replaced! The integrity and structure have been compromised. In addition to foam being compromised by a fall, glues, resins and additional materials used in creating the helmet also may break down through use and age. Residues from sweat, oily
hair, and cosmetic products further contribute to deterioration. For these reasons it is recommended that a helmet should be replaced after 5 years. The date a helmet is manufactured can be found in the helmet, with the SEI seal. You may find that some manufacturers will offer a new helmet at a reduced cost after the original has been deemed necessary to be replaced due to a fall or serious concussion against the helmet. If you have your user's manual, or tag from the helmet, that information can be found there. However, you may need your original receipt. Storage Helmet foam can be damaged by exposure to extreme heat, UV rays and chemicals. Therefore, helmets should not be stored anywhere that can be excessively warm, out in the sun, or near chemicals. This includes a hot car or a tack trunk/box that contains fly spray, bleach or other chemicals. Care To clean a helmet, use a mild detergent or, for a velvet helmet, use a brush. Proper Adjustment A properly fitted helmet is essential when working with horses. Your brain controls your body, so your head is the most important thing to keep safe. A helmet that fits correctly fit is one that will also be more comfortable and more likely to be worn. As you adjust your helmet, keep in mind that the retention straps or harness design are quite different on various makes and models of helmets. When you first get your new helmet, be sure to read the instructions for that helmet, regarding adjustment. When you are in the market for a helmet, whether buying a new one, or borrowing one from a friend, here are some tips for fit:
• Try it on and adjust it. • Move front/back and side/side, with your hand on top of the helmet. Do your eyebrows move? • Bend over from the waist. Does it stay on? • Wear it for 15 minutes. Do you see forehead marks? Fit has a direct impact on the effectiveness of a helmet. A comfortable helmet is also more likely to be used regularly. It is a good idea for a rider to try on many helmets before settling on one, as each model fits a little differently. What does ASTM/SEI Mean? The ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) Certification Program covers products (including materials, processes, and services) and personnel for industries that desire an independent third-party demonstration of compliance to standards and/or are facing regulatory pressures to prove compliance to standards. The ASTM standard is widely used internationally as a basis for the standards developed in other countries. SEI, (Safety Equipment Institute) a Global Leader in Certification, is a subsidiary of ASTM International, which certifies protective equipment, including head protective products. Any product bearing the SEI mark is manufactured to stringent requirements. In the case of equestrian helmets, every helmet bearing the SEI mark must be able to satisfy the impact and retention requirements of the ASTM standard, which is proven to reduce the risk of head injuries in equestrian activities. So, give it some thought. How much is your head worth? Many top professionals in all disciplines are on the bandwagon to see that all equestrians wear a helmet so they may continue to enjoy their passion safely!
When to Blanket a Horse
Ann M. Swinker Horses have two natural defenses against cold; a long hair coat and a layer of fat beneath the skin. Both provide an excellent means of insulation. Should you blanket your horse? The long winter hair coat serves as insulation by reducing the loss of body heat and provides the first line of defense against the cold. Its insulating value is lost when the horse becomes wet and/or is covered with mud. So provide a dry sheltered area in cold wet weather. How do you know if you should blanket your horse? Blanketing a horse is necessary to reduce the effects of cold and inclement weather when there is no shelter available during turnout periods and the temperatures drop below 5 degrees F, or the wind chill is below 5 degrees F.
There is a chance the horse will become wet (not usually a problem with snow, but much more of a problem with rain, ice, and/or freezing rain). The horse has had its winter coat clipped for showing. The horse is very young or very old. The horse has not been acclimated to the cold (i.e. recently relocated from a southern climate). The horse has a body condition score of 3 or less, or in poor health. Blanket Fit It is important that the blanket fit the horse make sure you have the correct size to fit the horse. Horses can develop rub marks or sores where the straps securing the blanket fit improperly. If the horse is continuously blanketed the blanket should be removed regularly to inspected for damage and reposition due to twisting. January 2022
Make sure blankets are kept dry and do not put a blanket on a wet horse; wait until the horse is dry before blanketing. Or take a wet blanket off a horse to keep it from becoming chilled. Days that the temperature becomes warm remove the blanket so the horse does not sweat and become wet under the blanket. Air out the blanket and dry out the horse's hair coat. The equine hair coat acts as insulation by trapping air, however, if the hair is wet or full of mud, air is excluded, reducing its insulating value and increasing heat loss. As little as 0.1 inch of rain can cause cold stress by making the hair and reducing its insulating value. It is important to keep the horse dry and sheltered from rain. Woolly horses with a thicker hair coat can retain more heat so sometimes it is better not to blanket. Equine Times
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