01 VISUAL STRATEGY GUIDE
UNITED COLORS VISUAL STRATEGY GUIDE ERICA LUCY FIRST PUBLISHED IN 2016
VISUAL STRATEGY GUIDE
UNITED COLORS
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WE WERE ONCE JUST A STORE WITH CATCHY ADVERTISING, NOW WE ARE SO MUCH MORE
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Fashion brand Benetton has made some of the most provocative and overtly political ads of the past half-century. Since its inception in 1965, the Benetton brand has challenged social norms and championed issues that affect humanity; communicating this stance through images that shock, make people think and raise awareness for causes the brand believes in. Unfortunately, over the years, Benetton has lost its way, and this was never more evident then what happened on April 24, 2013. On that day, the eight-story Rana Plaza commercial building collapsed outside Dhaka , Bangladesh. It housed one of the factories where Benetton makes its clothing. At least 1,130 people died. Benetton first denied reports linking production of their clothing at the factory, but clothes and documents linked to Benetton were discovered at the disaster site.
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WE MADE
MISTAKES ... 8
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After the disaster, Benetton as a company had to take a look at ourselves and it was decided that a new direction was need so that we could overcome and make amends with our past mistakes. This is the re-branding of United Colors of Benetton. How we will become a better, a more responsible, company that will help the world become a better place as well.
WELCOME TO THE NEW UNITED COLORS. 9
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BUT WE LEARNED 10
HOW TO OVERCOME.
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REBIRTH: Rising Above The Ashes 14 A LOOK BACK 20 TIMELINE 24 A LOOK TOWARD THE FUTURE 28 THE MISSION 32 WHERE THE MONEY COMES FROM 12
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Transformation: The New Look 38 ABOUT OUR NEW LOOK 40 BENETTON OF THE PAST 42 UNITED COLORS OF THE FUTURE
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AUDIENCE: WHO WE ARE 56 THE PEOPLE OF UNITED COLORS
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COMPETITION: ITS HEALTHY TO KNOW 48 CURRANT 50 ADJACENT 52 ASPIRATIONAL
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RISING FROM THE ASHES
REBIRTH 15
WHO WE ARE OUR HISTORY OUR SOUL THE MISSION ASPIRATIONS
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A LOOK BACK We started as a knitwear company and became so much more
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The origins of the Benetton Group date back to the 1960s in Ponzano Veneto, where the eldest of four siblings, Luciano Benetton, was working as a salesman. As the story goes, Luciano was inspired to start producing and selling colorful knitwear by his sister Giuliana who made hand knitted woolen sweaters in a variety of colors. Luciano decided to start selling them door-to-
distribution thus bringing advantages to the com-
door and to local stores. The positive response
pany and to the environment too. Along with the
encouraged Luciano to ask his siblings to join him
implementation of new technologies, new brands
in his new venture. In 1965, ‘the Benetton Group’
were added to the Group’s portfolio: ‘Jeans West’
was born. Luciano was, naturally, the chair-
in 1972 and ‘Sisley’ in 1974.
man while one brother Gilberto was in charge of administration and the other, Carlo, ran the production side. Giuliana was made chief designer. A year later, the so-called “Brothers of the Rainbow” opened their first store in Belluno and this was followed three years later by another store in Paris. Throughout the 1970s, Benetton consolidated its unique, flexible and innovative business model. Luciano Benetton experimented with a new production technique to decrease time and production costs and improve quality. The resulting “just-in-time” method was a mile-
In 1980 Benetton opened its first New York store on Madison Avenue, followed by one in Tokyo in 1982. The Benetton business was initially confined to making sweaters in classic colors, but later Luciano decided to get the attention of the younger buyers by creating sweaters in bright colors and their slogan became ‘United Colors of Benetton’. Benetton added cotton and denim to its original line of woolens and also expanded its men, women’s and children’s casual wear ranges. They then moved into toiletries, perfumes and home supplies such as kitchen accessories and baby
stone in global fashion history. The technique
products. Soon you could buy Benetton sun-
allowed them to make garments in raw wool and
glasses, watches, bags, shoes, glove, hats, jewelry
color them later, depending on the new season’s
and even car parts!
fashion trends. It enabled more efficient and faster
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In 1984, Benetton hired Oliviero Toscani, an award-winning photographer, to head its advertising campaign. Given a free hand with the advertising budget, Toscani’s early work focused on culturally diverse young people dressed in Benetton attire and engaged in a variety of seemingly aimless and playful acts. Linking the colors of Benetton clothes to the diverse “colors� of their customers from all over the world, Toscani attempted to use the themes of racial harmony and world peace to register such differences within a wider unifying articulation.
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The company’s core business remains their cloth-
Italy, and license agreements in 13 countries. In
ing lines which have the Italian characteristics
addition, Benetton decided to expand in devel-
of style, quality and passion. Casual clothing is
oping countries, forming a joint venture with a
marketed as the ‘United Colors of Benetton’ while
major Indian manufacturer to produce linens
there is also the underwear brand ‘Undercolours’,
and stationery, opening its 7,047th store, in Cuba,
the glamour oriented ‘Sisley’, the leisurewear
and transforming Benetton Mexico from a sales
brand ‘Playlife’ and street-wear ‘Killer Loop’. By early 1993, Benetton had continued to close stores in the United States and, for production and marketing reasons, ceased operations at the Rocky Mountain plant in North Carolina. A technologically advanced factory opened at Castrette, Italy, which was designed to expand manufacturing capacity to 20 million pieces per year with about 15 people, using sophisticated robotic technology. Goods were now exported in greater numbers from Italy, where Benetton benefited from the abolition of the wage indexation system and the devaluation of the lira following its withdrawal from the exchange rate mechanism of the European Monetary System. At this point, Benetton had 32 factories, of which 27 were in
subsidiary to a manufacturing operation for the North American market. These developments, particularly the continued effort to rationalize production, resulted in Benetton’s stock reaching a five-year high. Consolidated revenues increased in 1993 by about 10 percent compared with the previous year, and net income rose 39 percent since 1990.
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Benetton’s advertising campaign over the last decade has been instrumental in its success in the fashion world. The advertising campaign is important not merely as a means for assessing Benetton commercial such success in extending its name recognition; it is crucial for understanding how the philosophy of the company has attempted to re-inscribe its image within a broader set of political and cultural concerns.
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“YOUR CULTURE (WHOEVER YOU ARE) IS AS IMPORTANT AS OUR CULTURE (WHOEVER WE ARE)”
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Rise of the retail aspect of the company
1978
1965
Benetton exports 60% of its production.
Benetton Group is founded.
1963 In 1963, Luciano Benetton, the oldest of four children, was a 30-year-old salesman in Treviso. He saw a market for colorful clothes, and sold a younger brother’s bicycle in order to buy his first second-hand knitting machine.
1969 First store is opened outside of Italy, in Paris.
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1991
2005
Creation of Colors magazines,
Benetton is present in 120 countries, with 5,000 stores.
on sale in 40 countries and 4
2016 Alessandro Benetton, the son of one of the Italian fashion brand’s founders, has quit the Benetton Group board in a
languages.
move that has raised union concerns about the company’s future.
1985 Benetton ads awarded, “grand Prix de la Publicate” in France, ads receive critique and censorship, fosters debate in many countries around the world.
2001 Volunteer in color, a campaign and special concert in collaboration with UN Volunteers to celebrate the International Year of Volunteer work.
2013 On April 24, 2013 the eight-story Rana Plaza commercial building collapsed
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A LOOK TOWARD THE FUTURE United Colors of Benetton has a unique ability to use its name and history to bring change to the world at large. 26
Although Benetton has made extensive strives
ultimate goal is to radically change the way peo-
within the fashion community, We believe the
ple think and ultimately, to bring more people
brand has a better hold on the controversial
together, by any means necessary.
and most pressing issues of our time. At its core beliefs is the idea that diversity is good and should be encouraged. “That your culture (who you are) is important, just as our culture (who we are) is also important. Diversity is the key to a global society and how that is aware of each other and themselves. I would like to explore how this brand could take its radical advertising campaign and use that same radical thinking in promoting change not just within the fashion community but also with the political and social world. What if Benetton became involved with the political workings of the global stage, pushing radical ideas by first connecting with their customer base, young people. Their
Holding true to its retail and fashion base, Benetton Group will create a non-profit that travels to third world countries to build fair wage factories, with good working conditions. Consumers can get a first hand look into how their items are made and through rigorous and radical transparency, Benetton will gain back a customer base and generate revenue to continue its work with helping others.
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THE CORE We encourage social consciousness and diversity in the world.
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OUR MISSION
OUR MISSION Is to encourage human diversity and the transformation of society through the contribution to progress and change in the world. We are devoted to being a globally responsible company with a social, environmental, and economical commitment to both present and future generations.
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Although Benetton has made extensive strives
Holding true to its retail and fashion base,
within the fashion community, I believe the brand
Benetton Group will create a non-profit that
has a better hold on the controversial and most
travels to third world countries to build fair
pressing issues of our time. The brand has a unique
wage factories, with good working conditions.
ability to use its name and history to bring change
Consumers can get a first hand look into how
to the world at large. At its core beliefs is the idea
their items are made and through rigorous and
that diversity is good and should be encouraged.
radical transparency, Benetton will gain back a
“That your culture (who you are) is important, just as
customer base and generate revenue to continue
our culture (who we are) is also important. Diversity is the key to a global society, now that is aware of each other and themselves. With a history of such radical political views, the re-branding of the company will take that to a new level and use that same radical thinking in promoting change not just within the fashion community but also with the political and social world. What if Benetton became involved with the political workings of the global stage, pushing radical ideas by first connecting with their customer base, young people. Their ultimate goal is to radically change the way people think and ultimately, to bring more people together, by any means necessary.
its work with helping others.
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OUR UNITY IS IN OUR DIVERSITY
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Central to Benetton's celebration of cultural differences are the dynamics of economic restructuring and its own rise from a local business venture to a
global
marketing
conglomerate.
Benetton's
commercial success and the ideological legitimation upon which it constructs its United Colors of Benetton world view derives, in part, from its aggressive adaptation to the shifting economic and cultural cartography
UNITED COLORS
WHERE THE MONEY COMES FROM United Colors of Benetton has a unique ability to use its name and history to bring change to the world at large. 34
Throughout the history of the company, Benetton
The Benetton’s aimed to transform the fash-
has consistently had the reputation of being a
ion-fictionalized small handicraft style into an
responsible group that plans for the future and
industry with minimum risks. To achieve this,
lives in the present, with a watchful eye to the
they expanded in variety and size and decentral-
environment, to human dignity, and to a soci-
ized production and distribution. They purchased
ety in transformation. Together with his siblings,
large quantities of materials in raw form, benefit-
Carlo, Gilberto and Giuliana, Luciani Benetton
ing from quantity discounts and controlling the
founded the Benetton Group in 1965. The
processing (especially color) from its rawest form.
Benetton family combined and optimized their
However, 80 percent of production was performed
expertise in marketing (Luciano), production
in plants not owned by Benetton but controlled
(Giuliana), management and finance (Gilberto)
by the family. In distribution, various attempts
and technical know-how (Carlo). They aimed
were made to control all stores. At the beginning
at the casual wear market with color to catch
they would go into partnership with a friend who
the eye, first only in woolens but later in cotton.
would in turn find others interested in having a
When regional small plants producing stockings
Benetton store. Later, with international expan-
came upon hard times, the Benetton’s bought
sions, the holdings model was adopted, with the
their equipment at bargain prices. Now they were
Benetton’s always having an exclusive contract.
ready for a spectacular expansion. Between 1972
As a practical characteristic, the stores were about
and 1976, they expanded into all types of cloth-
400 square feet (while the competition was usually
ing, from jeans to gloves to a complete Benetton
1,500 square feet) and 50 percent of all working
wear model. Going into the 1990s there were 14
hours were dedicated to sales (the competition,
family members in the business.
22.5 percent). This is probably why Benetton’s
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Luciano Benetton is an Italian billionaire businessman, one of the co-founders of Benetton Group, the Italian fashion brand.
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Luciano Benetton has long been known for his unique personality and view on the world. This often comes out in the company itself.
With its yearly production of over 150 million garments, an annual turnover of two billion euro and a network of 6,400 stores in 120 countries, it’s hardly surprising that glamorous Italian fashion group Benetton is considered one of the most successful in the world. productivity was four times greater than the competition.
Still, the success of the “Benetton” model is due to their trust. They wanted the stores to be exclusively Benetton, but allowed the owners to have 51 percent of the holdings. The Benetton”s have always preferred to be partners with their producers and distributors rather than to seek vertical integration (where the managers of stores were salaried people with no direct share in the operation). The incentive was to make every representative a majority partner in his particular operation so that, as owners, they would strive to increase sales and profits. In the 1980s, the little 400-square-feet stores developed a turnover more than twice as large as those of competing companies. Specialization and standardization are the main instruments that allow high productivity. The Benetton”s found a happy mixture of personal incentives: outright ownership by each unit and overriding control of operations and a quality/product mix to conduct market penetration at low risk with high profitability. In April 2012, Luciano Benetton de-listed the group from Milan Stock Exchange. In the past decade, there hasn’t been a significant change in value and sales of the fashion group. In 2001, the group was valued at $2.1 billion but in 2011, Benetton Group has a market value of just little over $2 billion. Currently, the brand is sold in over 120 countries worldwide. The Benetton’s are listed on Forbes list of Italy’s top 20 billionaires, and have been on the list for the past 20 years.
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V I S U A L S T R AT E G Y G U I D E
A NE W LOOK
TRANSFORMATION THE OLD THE NEW
UNITED COLORS
ABOUT OUR NEW DIRECTION United Colors of Benetton has a unique ability to use its name and history to bring change to the world at large. 40
With the changes of the company there will also come a new look. To debut the new United Colors of Benetton, we will also change the name, it will now become United Colors. Although this is a bit of a radical move, it is something that the company has done before. First being called Margielier Benetton, then become just Benetton, and eventually the United Colors of Benetton. Interesting, recently the last Benetton Family member, Alassandro Benetton just stepped down from head of our board members, thus meaning United Colors of Benetton is no longer run by the family. As such we believe as a company that it is time to move forward and invite change. In the next pages, there are examples of how the company will be changing. The imagery will show our old more conservative look, and the new more radical projection of what we will become.
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The Benetton of before was known for its vibrant color combination, and a mix of clean cut models with edgy advertising. Although this is what propelled the brand into fame at the beginning of the 1960’s the look has become outdated. Furthermore, the old branding of clean preppy looks and aesthetic does not fit with the new ideology of a united world that is a bit messy, 43 imperfect but beautiful in its ideology.
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The new Benetton will be vibrant and edgy, imperfect and a bit messy. Color will be vivid and contrasting, while still holding on to the idea of the old brand, that good design and ideas will help to propel ideas to make change. The new United Colors of Benetton will still touch on it individuality and its clothing base, but this will be just to fund their other activities in the area of activism and social consciousness.
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03 UNITED COLORS
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ITS HE ALTHY TO KNOW
COMPETITION 47
CURRENT ASPIRATIONAL ADJACENT
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COMPETITORS AND THEIR IMPORTANCE COMPETITION IS GOOD, AND HEALTHY, AND HERE IS WHY. 48
In order to grow the brand further and reinvent ourselves, it felt imperative to exam our past, present, and future identity with other well know companies and brands. By examining this information and synthesize it, we can better predict our new design and aesthetic, as well as our new audience and business practices. In this analysis we found that the company has shifted away from its purely fashion perspective to a broader range of brand competition that are much more radial and edgy, but also have the same ideologies that mirror our new mission and core to our brand. Additionally, it was interesting to look at similar like minded brands that have nothing to do with our current category of manufacturing, to see how they are operating and the image the public preserves of them.
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CURRENT COMPETITION BRANDS WITH A CONSCIOUS SOUL
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Toms is a for-profit company based in Playa Del Rey, California. The
Reformation is a women’s clothing company that make and
concept is to give a pare of shoes for every shoe bought.
produce only ethically conscious clothing.
Hip eyewear retailer with a variety of vintage & modern styles in a space decked in wood & white.
Patagonia is a designer of outdoor clothing and gear for the silent sports: climbing, surfing, skiing and snowboarding, fly fishing, and trail running.
They believe food has the power to bring many together. The brand uses the proceeds of their clothing sales to fund charity.
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American Retailer that prides itself in making edgy and trendy American made clothing.
H&M Conscious collection is an ethically sourced capsule collection that H&M releases each year.
Brand launched by Stella McCartney, is known to be socially conscious
American Retailer that prides itself in making edgy and trendy American made clothing.
Timeless apparel and accessories for the modern woman made with the most premium materials and finest craftsmanship
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ADJACENT COMPETITION NON CLOTHING BRANDS WITH A CONSCIOUS SOUL
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National Geographic, formerly The National Geographic Magazine, is the official magazine of the National Geographic Society. It has been published continuously since its first issue in 1888.
Discover y Channel is an American basic cable and satellite telev ision channel.
Tesla Motors, Inc. is an American automotive and energy storage company that designs, manufactures, and sells electric cars, electric vehicle power train components, and battery products.
Discovery Channel is an American basic cable and satellite television channel.
Travel Channel is an American basic cable and satellite television channel that is owned by Scripps Networks Interactive. The channel is headquartered in Chevy Chase, Maryland, United States
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Whole Foods is a grocery retailer who places particular importance on helping others and providing ethically sourced goods.
Starbucks is a coffee chain, based in the Pacific Northwest, that has made significant strides in fair trading.
Aveda Corporation is a company founded by Horst Rechelbacher, now owned by EstĂŠe Lauder Companies, headquartered in the Minneapolis suburb of Blaine, Minnesota.
Dove is a large cosmetics company that has a strong base in social welfare.
Burt’s Bees is an American personal care products subsidiary of Clorox that describes itself as an “Earth friendly.
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ASPIRATIONAL COMPETITION BRANDS & ORGANIZATIONS WE STRIVE TO BE
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Anonymous is a loosely associated international network of activist and hacktivist entities.
The Occupy movement is an international social movement against social inequality and lack of “real democracy� around the world, its primary goal being to advance social and economic justice and new forms of democracy.
WikiLeaksis an international non-profit journalistic organization that publishes secret information, news leaks, and classified media from anonymous sources.
Product Red, styled as (PRODUCT)RED, is a licensed brand that seeks to engage the private sector to create jewelry, bags and purses.
Greenpeace is a non-governmental environmental organization with offices in over 40 countries and with an international coordinating body in Amsterdam, the Netherlands.
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Ethical clothing company based on radical transparency in the manufacturing process. Based in San Francisco.
Enables anyone, anywhere to start a petition, mobilize support, and win change in anything from local concerns to global issues.
World Vision International is an Evangelical Christian humanitarian aid, development, and advocacy organization.
Rock the Vote is a non-profit organization, progressive-aligned group in the United States whose stated mission is “to engage and build the political power of young people.
Created to administer Ted Turner’s $1 billion pledge in support of the United Nations.
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WHO WE ARE
AUDIENCE
UNITED COLORS
THE PEOPLE OF UNITED COLORS OUR PEOPLE ARE AS VARIED AS THE WORLD WE LIVE IN. 58
Although Benetton has made extensive strives within the fashion community, We believe the brand has a better hold on the controversial and most pressing issues of our time. At its core beliefs is the idea that diversity is good and should be encouraged. “That your culture (who you are) is important, just as our culture (who we are) is also important. Diversity is the key to a global society and how that is aware of each other and themselves. Persona and archetypes are how designers organize and pinpoint what kind of audience their brand might have and what kind of audience the re-branders might want to have eventually. The key is to have a range, so that you are touching on key demographics from across the board Taking the information we gained from researching competition, we were able to develop a decisive overview of our audience base. This audience is interested in causes and making a difference. They strive for a better world and society as a whole cohesive united people of the world.
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THE ACTIVIST Christina Mar tin 24 Years Old Human Rights Activist Chicago, IL
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_Christina is a 24 year old social worker and activist. _She graduated from Georgetown University with a bachelors in political science. _She really found her footing, and political beliefs, in the campaign of Bernie Sanders, and has since become a renewed and hopeful that more changes can come to the United States. _She is pro-choice, and was over joyed when gay marriage became legal. _She sees the United States in a dangerous time period and wants to make initiatives to ensure that all advances in human rights are secure and sound. _She is increadably active in the black lives matter movement and spends many weekends helping young children in black communities.
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THE LAW STUDENT Mustafa Kawsara
32 Years Old Former L aw Student Berlin, Germany
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_Mustafa is of Syrian decent but grew up in Germany. _He works hard and only has only a few months left for earning his law degree. _Although a German citizen, he still has family in the middle east. _He often feels he should be of more help to his family remaining in the middle east, he is in limbo in Europe and doesn’t know what will happen next in his life. _He does know that he has seen what conflict can do and want to make a difference both for his family in Syria and his friends stuck in limbo in Europe. _When he isn’t working, he plays soccer as it connects him with other walks of life.
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THE BACKPACKER Daniel Farmer 22 Years Old Works at a Hostel Per th, Australia
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_Daniel is a world traveler, he loves exploring, adventuring, and experiencing life. _ He has learned a lot from these world experiences and takes these as life lessons. _While traveling he has seen many beautiful moment and many injustices. _He understand the juxtaposition of the world but doesn’t know how that quite effects him yet. _ He’s the kind of person who doesn’t know what he want to do from one way to the next. _He starts things and doesn’t finish them. _He prefers to live day to day and to wander wherever the wind will take him.
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THE CURIOUS TEENAGER Gemma Ianuzzi 17 Years Old High School Student Trenton, NJ
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_Gemma is the daughter of an African American mother and an Italian American father. _She grew up in a moderately diverse community but has always wrestled with her identity. _She enjoys playing softball at her high school and her favorite subjects are history and biology. _She is active in her family’s church but doesn’t let any of the more conservative beliefs bothers her. _Often in her life she has had moments where racism has touched her family and when that happens she has always fought the injustice. _She is studying for her college entrance exams and hopes to go to school in NYC next year.
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THE HACKER Justin Eackles 27 Years Old Computer Engineer San Jose, Ca
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_Justin is an African American computer engineer working for a tech company in California _He grew up in the suburban Bay Area in a middle class family _He got into computers as a way to deal with his parent’s divorce. _Justin is extremely skilled with computers,and when he isn’t working he uses his hacking skills to attack those who are corrupt. _Often he is found working in coffee shops around the bay area. _He is apart of a larger network of hackers who work to make a difference in the world.
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THE OPEN DESIGNER Manuel Medina 36 Years Old UI/UX Designer London, UK
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_Ben is passionate about beauty and design. _He has been openly gay since he was a young teen and doesn’t let that stop him. _A successful designer, Ben is passionate, obsessive, and analytical. _Five years ago, he met his boyfriend and long time partner Micheal and they had moved in to gather last year. _They are very supportive of each other and of their respective gay communities. _They want to give back in some way, to the community. _They strive to bring more consciousness to society.
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THE GRAFFITI ARTIST Devon Kong 25 Years Old Par t-Time Student and Ar tist Berkeley, Ca 73
_Devon is current and on trend always, she cares about how the world views her and how she views the world. _She spends her days running around the Bay Area, working odd jobs, going to school, and blogging about all things from fashion to social consciousness. _She wants most in the world to have a meaningful life and strives to make a difference. _This also means she sometimes has a hard time finding what it is she wants in her life, with so many aspirations the most rewording thing for her is expressing her thoughts and her beliefs to the world, through her blog. _ As an artist she wants to find her own way in the world and work toward the deconstruction of social norms about women.
NOW LET THE TRANSFORMATION BEGIN...
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SOURCES
BENETTON GROUP http://www.benettongroup.com/ HISTORY OF BENETTON http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/benettongroup-s-p-a-history/ COMPARATIVE STORY OF BENETTON https://www.scribd.com/doc/123954090/Comparative-Studyon-Brand-Identity-of-Esprit-and-United-Colors-of-Benetton STOCK.ADOBE.COM https://stock.adobe.com/ GETTY IMAGES http://www.gettyimages.com/ BOSTON THE BIG PICTURE https://www.bostonglobe.com/news/bigpicture
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Copyright Š 2016 Erica Lucy Erica.L.Lucy@gmail.com www.ericalucy.com This book is a non-commercial project for educational purposes and in no way represents the United Colors of Benetton Brand. 78
Designer / Erica Lucy Class / Nature of Identity Professor / Hunter Wimmer Semester / Fall 2016
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission of Erica Lucy.
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