TEN Magazine Tellason

I Issue NO.1 I Jan 2019 I www.tellason.com I

I Editorial I

02. 03

Along for the ride* Tellason – 10 years in the rag trade.

A moment to remember how our cooperation started.

I

met Pete in the summer of 2011 at the Capsule show in Berlin. I was in the look-out for new challenges. He sat in a small booth with just a few pieces of denim garments. The orange “T” printed on narrow raw denim had caught my eye.

I had read about the brand on Michael Williams‘ A Continuous Lean blog but never touched the jeans.

We found out we had similar ideas about product, quality and distribution and the two of us hit it off right away. During a visit to San Francisco a few weeks later I learned that Pete‘s partner Tony shared the same down-to-earth attitude, no-fashion approach, sense for quality products and love for Punk Rock. After a visit to the factory in downtown San Francisco I was convinced that it was the right idea to bring this brand to Europe and in January 2012 we had the first booth at the Bread&Butter show. And from then on it has been quite a ride.

The positive reception of the brand in most of the leading denim stores in Europe pleased us and convinced us to pursue the idea of setting up distribution, import and brand building.

Fast forward to the end of 2018 and we have established a network of true customers in stores in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Holland & France with a strong belief in the brand and philosophy.

Always putting passion over fashion. Good product and how it should be made and having it sold by the right people has been the driving force. The general idea of quality. Quality of life. Quality of lifestyle. What we eat, drink, what we wear.

Pete & Tony have supported us from the very beginning. They never interfered and let us do our thing.

Tellason I P ortrait

Tellason History

IA bout the Brand

Ruedi Karrer the Swiss jeansfreak Thomas S. Bojer Denimhunter

I P roduction

East coast to West coast

people » 04. 05 » 20. 21

I F riends and Supporters Markus Michael » 08. 09 Michael Uhlemann » 28. 29 Todd Blubaugh » 38. 41 John Doe » 48. 49

They never expected or demanded numbers or pushed us for results. Their belief and confidence has been a big motivator. Knowing there are two great guys in Sausalito that back-up our activities is a good feeling.

This little newspaper has been put together to commemorate the 10th anniversary of the brand by portraying loyal stores and dedicated supporters, showing products introduced over the years and how they aged and to give a little insight in this ‘special interest’ group of raw denim lovers.

Finally working for Pete & Tony & the Tellason brand gave us the chance to meet most interesting people that share many interests but above all the quest for good denim.

Thank you for the past 10 years and looking forward to the next 10.

I would like to thank the good people that helped to make this newspaper happening: Eric Jost, Joern Pollex, Leo Nave, Johan V. Maier, Thomas of Denimhunters, Ruedi Karrer and many more.

Uwe E. Maier // Amtraq Distribution

* I borrowed the title from the brilliant documentary on Dennis Hopper by Nick Ebeling, 2016.

product IC ore Products

John Graham Mellor Chino Pant Coverall Jacket Topper Shirt Fatigue Pant

IC ollaborations » 26. 27

Tellason x Manifattura Ceccarell G.R.P. Knitwear Croots, Broska, Jack/Knife, Filson

I S omething Special

portrait » 12. 13 » 16. 17

» 34. 35

Too nice to be produced » 46. 47 Once and never again Worn, used, beaten & battered

IT he Shops

VMC B74 Selected Goods Riders Room

» 22. 23 » 32. 33 » 42. 43

facts I S tockists

» 50

I I mprint

» 50

TELLASON HISTORY

T

ony and I were born in 1965. Tony in Germany (Dad was in the army). I was born in Long Beach, California. I can go on and tell a thousand stories of what it was like to be a kid in the 60’s and 70’s in California, but let’s just say it was 100% awesome. A social scientist may argue that a child’s mind is most heavily influenced at the age of 12. Not much to argue here. After all, at 12 you start to think about what it would be like to kiss a girl and what might it take to get to that point with a young lady. The clothes you wore, the music you listened to and the type of bicycle you rode all played a small part in your life and your level of popularity. This is 1977 for us. To many, the most important year in the history of Rock n’ Roll music. Punk rock was born and we were listening …

Being young suburban kids, we dreamed of the cool stuff we saw in the album artwork of our favorite bands. What did they wear? What did they say? It all mattered and did a fine job of shaping our lives and style. This is pre MTV. We relied on buying records, hanging out in skate shops and building skate ramps out of scrap wood often stolen from the sides of neighbors’ houses. We did not have baby sitters, nannies, or professional lessons to teach us anything. Our parents worked their asses off to give us a nice house in a clean middle class town. We took care of the rest and did our best to create a independent life based on real life experience and DIY ideology.

Fast forward to 2008. At this point, we had been friends for 18 years. The economy tanked. There were

shops hoisting up the white surrender flag on the daily.

Our careers in clothing and shoe sales were upside down. We agreed that it was time to stop working for companies that put image first and quality and integrity second. With that, we tapped into Tony’s deep trough of denim knowledge and connections and put together one jean that we felt could sit in any denim shop in the world. Calling San Francisco home did not hurt either. After all, this place is the home of blue jean culture and Tony’s strongest connection was with the last remaining factory in SF that made jeans. Without her, we would not be here in Berlin celebrating our 10 year anniversary. The next three months were spent tweaking a slim straight leg fit to perfection. We called it the John Graham Mellor and 10 years later, it is still the best selling jean we make. Without thinking of what Litmus Test we would dream of passing, I can say without hesitation that making one thing 10 years ago and have it still be important today is that test.

We don’t chase fashion cycles. That can be a regrettable pursuit. Classic clothing for men is the only thing that matters to us. Every outfit starts with a good pair of jeans and lucky us to have a small army out there willing to give us a chance to keep them dressed as they live their lives.

Grazie 1000 Pete Searson / Tony Patella

Pete Searson and Tony Patella in the Tellason office & warehouse in Sausalito, Calif. Sausalito is just north of the famous Golden Gate Bridge (see page 10/11).

I Portrait I

04. 05

06. 07

» I AM MARKUS MICHAEL, HAMBURG, GERMANY. LOVE TO SPEND TIME IN THE WORKSHOP AND RIDING ONE OF MY BIKES.«

T

hanks to Uwe I came across one of the first Coverall Jackets in Germany and instantly fell in love with it.

Working on an old Ironhead Sportster, my Tellason stuff gives me a good west coast feeling in the shop and on the road.

I really dig the simple straight designs and the fact that your goods are Californian offspring.

Love watching your company growing over the years.

Thank you for your efforts.

All the best!

Markus Mi

Markus, Interior Architect, 49, Hamburg, Germany, likes to work on old Harleys, BMWs, Yamahas, Vespas ...

The Coverall jacket in 12.5 oz worn 6 years hanging next to a brand new in 16.5 oz.

ichael I Friends and Supporters I

08. 09

10. 11

John Graha

I Core Products I

12. 13

F rom the very first photo shoot in 2009.

Jeans, simple tee and Vans.

am Mellor The JOHN GRAHAM MELLOR, internally known as the ‘1977’, was the very first Jean style made by Tellason.

Eponym was the Clash‘ frontman Joe Strummer, whose real name was John Graham Mellor. The style has proven to be a steady staple in the collection and is available in all 3 fabrics 12.5oz, 14.75oz and 16.5oz.

T

ony Patella: Over ten years ago, when it came time to design and develop our one and only product, the Strummer (later re-named John Graham Mellor) jean, we knew it had to be 100% right.

If you have one thing to sell, perfection is a necessity!

We knew we wanted a modern slim straight jean, but with very specific fit details. The front-rise needed to be low, but not too low; the back-rise needed to provide ass crack coverage, so the “scoop” needed to be different than most low-rise jeans. The shape of the leg needed to accommodate not only skinny hipsters, but regular dudes with muscles. Fortunately our pattern maker and sample seamstress understood what we were trying to articulate and after 100 days of trial and error, re-sampling and micro-adjustments, we were ready to show our jean to the world.

Our hard work and fastidiousness paid off – all five of our targeted customers on the west coast placed on the spot orders! The fabric we used for our first several production runs was the iconic Cone Mills White Oak “1968” 13.5 oz selvedge denim. To celebrate our 10th anniversary we made 115 pair of the John Graham Mellor in the same “1968” fabric – available January 2019.”

The iconic ‘Combat Rock’ album by The Clash, released in 1982, their 5th album and the last with Topper Headon.

» IF YOU HAVE ONE THING TO SELL, PERFECTION IS A NECESSITY!«

ery limited edition of the John Graham V Mellor (2011) jean packed in a special ammunition box with handpainted silhouette of Joe Strummer on vintage plate (only 10 made).

John Graham Mellor

P

ete Searson: “I remember a moment in London 5 or so years ago. A nice young lady approached me at the Pop Up Flea in Piccadilly Circus. She asked if she could take a picture of our jeans. I said yes and later that day, the image popped up on IG. She sent it to her friend that was Joe Strummer‘s daughter and said something nice like “check out this jean named after your dad!” John Graham Mellor is the name of the fit we make and it is Joe Strummer‘s real name. I think his daughter responded fondly with a smiley face or something...”

I Core Products I

14. 15

CHINO Pant

The Chino pant was introduced in 2014. Modeled after US Army Men‘s traditional officer trousers.

Originally made in the iconic Cramerton twill by renowned mill Galey&Lord, a fabric used for a long time in the US military. Unfortunately the mill closed in 2016 and since then Tellason uses a US-woven 9oz twill made by the Carlisle Finishing Co. in South Carolina (est. 1956). Fabric gets better with each wash. Button fly with real Corozo buttons. Cotton waist band. Coin pocket.

It is available in a tapered and a straight fit.

Made in San Francisco, Calif. USA.

COVERALL JACKET

Introduced in 2009 this Chore coat has been in the collection ever since. 6 Utility pockets. Unlined, buttoned cuffs. Extra rivet to reinforce stress points at chest newspaper pocket. Selvedge hit around collar and front placket. Copper patent buttons. Comes with wooden carpenter pencil.

Available in 12.5oz, 16.5oz, 13.5oz Japanese Black denim and 13oz US-made Bull denim. Made in San Francisco, Calif. USA. Pictured is the 12.5oz version, worn 6 years by Markus Michael.

I Core Products I

16. 17

TOPPER SHIRT

In the collection since 2009. Denim Work shirt made from Japanese rope-dyed 7.5oz fabric. Metal buttons. Comes with wooden carpenter pencil.

Perfect length for wearing untucked. Made in San Francisco, Calif. USA. Pictured is Pete’s shirt form the very first production run, worn 9 years.

FATIGUE PANT

Introduced in 2014. Modeled after the iconic OG-107. The OG-107 was the basic work utility uniform (fatigues) of all branches of the United States Armed Forces from 1952 until its discontinuation in 1989. The designation came from the U.S. Army‘s coloring code “Olive Green 107”. The every day uniform of the G.I.’s in Vietnam. By the mid 1960s adopted by the counterculture movement and often appearing by anti-war protests. Made in 8.5 ounce cotton sateen. Slightly refitted with tapered legs.

Two patched rear pockets with flaps&buttons, 2 patched front pockets, zip fly. Made in Italy from Italian fabric.

18. 19

T

10 YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF TELLASON DENIM

R U E D I

K a r r e r

he 2 raw denim enthusiasts Tony Patella and Pete Searson took the second part of their last names and a new raw denim label called “Tellason” was born in San Francisco. And they’re celebrating their 10th anniversary already with a first successful decade leaving behind.

I was falling in love with this brand when I first saw them in 2011 at the fashion week trade shows in Berlin, where I met those 2 super nice and friendly Tellason guys at their booth. I couldn’t stop watching their awesome faded denim samples seen there, reflecting the full power of natural raw denim evolution at it’s best.

And I’m following many great aging progress from this brand like Pete Searsons hardcore broken in jeans.

I will never forget this story, when he let his daughter hose his jeans in their garden when wearing them, to give them a proper soak after keeping them very thirsty for a long time before. Or when I read the book from his friend @bluetodd on his long motorbike ride in his Tellason jeans across the country after he lost his parents by a tragic car accident.

The Tellason raw denim gear has a very promising and great denim evolution potential, when worn the hard natural way forages and it would be a honor for me to give as many as possible of those completely trashed but well loved favoriteitems an eternal life in the Jeans museum of heaviest fading some day, what they would deserve for sure.

The jeans are produced in a very clean style and cut and are covering the needs from the smart urban cowboys in the city jungle up to hard working men and cowboys out in the far west. The range of denim weight from 12.5 up to 16.5 oz makes it easy for every­ body to beat the heat or to be prepared for colder times.

Not to forget to mention the awesome denim jackets with some creative details like the additional tilted breast pocket or the blanket lined style for rougher wintertimes.

What would the raw denim community be without this awesome brand with creative details like the hidden red LeGAL tab inside the right back pocket. You can even see the ghost sign of this tab showing up on the outside of the back pocket after a hard and long wear time.

Keep go on with your great raw denim art Pete and Tony and I wish you many more decades of success to inspire the raw denim community with your products and help keeping the raw denim spirit alive that way.

Stay raw Ruedi Karrer Founder of the Jeansmuseum of heaviest fadings Wibichstrasse 90, 8037 Zuerich, Switzerland @swissjeansfreak, ruedi.karrer@jeansmuseum.org +41 79 578 00 51

ABOUT »SWISSJEANSFREAK« RUEDI KARRER Ruedi Karrer has a vision. He wants young people to wear more raw denim! He’s been collecting jeans since he got his first pair in 1973; a donation he had to share with his brothers at first. Ruedi’s amassed no less than 14,000 denim items in a 5th-floor storage space in Zürich, Switzerland to

convince anybody he meets about the power of raw denim evolution, as he calls it. He doesn’t make money from the Museum. That’s not the point for him. Still, he would like to see the Museum properly conceptualized and in a bigger space.

(Source: www.denimhunters.com)

T

I About the Brand I

20. 21

Thomas S. Bojer T

en years. A decade. A tenth of a century. Doing the same thing consistently for that long takes stamina. And a lot of hard work. The thing about Tellason is that it sometimes feels like it’s been around much longer.

The brand was founded in the heartland of American blue jeans, San Francisco. That’s where it all started back almost 150 years ago.

And a similar recipe that every pair of Tellasons is made from. Jeans for the everyman, and the connoisseur. Minimalistic, understated, high quality. While that could sound like something a little tame and predictable, ingeniously subtle details like the hidden ‘legal’ tab proves that Tellason certainly isn’t square. A tangible piece of evidence of founders, Pete Searson and Tony Patella’s punk roots.

I came to know Pete and Tony through our many meetings at trade shows, usually in Berlin. On one occasion, I even got to take

Tony out for our local specialty, smørrebrød, in my hometown, Copenhagen.

Pete and Tony built Tellason from nothing to one of Cone Denim White Oak’s biggest clients. Absolutely impressive. That’s why Tellason was one of the first brands I thought of when the news of White Oak’s closure came in last autumn. They’d almost become synonymous with American-made Cone Denim jeans.

But it’ll take more than the loss of their main supplier to knock out the two founders and the brand they’ve established. Here’s to another ten years of Tellason!

Thomas S. Bojer www.denimhunters.com

ABOUT »DENIMHUNTER« THOMAS STEGE BOJER With a business degree in marketing under his belt, Thomas Stege Bojer didn’t exactly expect to get sucked into the denim industry.

But after taking a part-time job at a clothing store in his early twenties, he fell in love with the jeans he was selling.

Eventually, this led him to launch the blog Denimhunters.

Thanks to the in-depth learnings and the contacts he made in the industry, Denimhunters attracted the attention of denim brands, who hired Bojer as a marketing consultant. It also caught the eye of publishing house Gestalten, who approached Bojer in 2015 with

the idea of writing a book. Published in May 2016, Blue Blooded features profiles of groundbreaking jeans makers, including Tellason, along with deep dives into both the history of denim and today’s blossoming denim culture.

Inspired to share the knowledge he gained while writing Blue Blooded, Bojer launched Denimhunters Academy, an online education and staff-training platform that helps denim professionals create meaningful experiences for their customers.

VMC original STore

I The Shops I

22. 23

Q &FORAVMC T »Business is tough. Taking on a new denim brand no one has heard of can be very risky, especially in the late 2000’s. Why did you take on Tellason during a time when other retailers were cutting brands from their store?« VMC »It’s positive that the brand worked after a short time and the customers liked the Cone denim and the cuts very fast. For us the Ladbroke is the jeans that works the best for different body types.« T »What are a few things you tell people about raw denim that gets the customer who has ­never worn raw denim into their first pair?« VMC »We explain to our customers the ad­van­tages of raw denim jeans, such as the individual fit.« T

»Where do you want denim culture to go?«

VMC »The customers are very interested in the production of the jeans and where they are from. In the future this will be even more important.« T »We spend a lot of time and energy focusing on where our fabrics come from and where our goods are cut and sewn. Do customers care about this like we do or does it come down to just buying something new because shopping is fun?« VMC »We see Tellason as a brand with high quality products that allow us to appeal to a wide range of customers.« T »Buzzcocks, The Clash, Blondie, or Sex Pistols?« VMC

»Definitely The Clash«

VMC Original Store Est. 1986 Rindermarkt 8 8001 Zürich, Switzerland

Fon +41 44 251 56 96 Fax +41 44 881 79 68 vmcoriginal@me.com www.vmcoriginal.com Instagram ›› @vmcoriginal Tuesday – Friday: 10am – 7pm Saturday: 9am – 5pm

24. 25

East coast to West coast In the Fall of 2008 when Pete and I were talking about starting a denim brand of our own, our first priority was made in San Francisco, California, the home of blue jeans. Given my experience in denim in the 1990s in San Francisco, I knew that keeping the manufacturing of jeans alive in San Francisco was imperative. Fortunately the factory I worked with back then was still in existence and more than happy to help us with our project.

O

nce San Francisco production was locked down, my next call was to my friend at Cone Mills’ San Francisco office. We had remained friends even after I exited the denim world in 2002 and I was hoping that Cone Mills White Oak was still cranking out some of my favorite selvedge denim. Turns out the Draper looms were still bouncing around on White Oak’s wooden floors and besides my friend in the local Cone Mils office, many other people I worked with at Cone in Greensboro, North Carolina were still with the company.

This was huge for us as Pete and I both believe, as Joe Strummer said, “without people you’re nothing”.

Besides weaving some beautiful fabric on historic antique looms, it really comes down to the people that worked on the mill floor (some for several decades). They took extreme pride in their work and to them, their work at White Oak was more than “just another job”.

As I mentioned, made in San Francisco was our first priority and if Cone Mills White Oak didn’t exist, we still would’ve started the brand. Knowing what we know about the financial situation at White Oak, we feel more than fortunate that we were able to develop and use their fantastic selvedge fabrics for over ten years.

White Oak was over 130,000 square meters and when we found out a couple of years ago that Tellason was the fourth largest customer at White Oak, we knew the day of closure was not too far into the future. Of course the closure of White Oak is a dark moment in the history of American denim (as was the closure of the Levi’s factory on Valencia Street in San Francisco) and is emblematic of the idiotic consumer behavior that lead to demise of many textile mills in the American south.

At the end of the day, the people hurt most by the closure of White Oak isn’t any of us, it’s the people that worked there.

» CONE DENIM’S

UNIQUE HISTORY MAKES US A TRUE ORIGINAL.«

Keep wearin’ pants!

Tony Patella Tellason Co-Founder

Historical illustration of the Cone Mills White Oak plant in Greensboro, North Carolina, founded in 1905 and the last selvedge denim mill in the United States till its closure end of 2017.

P ete & Tony‘s last visit to the mill in Greensboro, N.C.

making

I Production I

26. 27

HANDMADE FOR GREAT TASTE Whoever considered Krefeld to be a blind spot on the culinary landscape, should think again: Krefeld is home to the soul kitchen of Chef Michael Uhlemann – a true master of his craft. In the historic grounds of the Old Slaughterhouse, this old school punk-rocker and ex-skateboard fanatic, turned Master Chef, has created magic. With an elegant combination of quality produce, artistic manipulation of flavours and a little taste of spirit, Michael creates gourmet menus that delight both the enjoyers of fine cuisne and soul food lovers alike.

L

By the time the old butchery was finished – the soul kitchen was alive and it was too special for Michael to keep it to himself. So he placed a huge wooden table in the middle of the kitchen, opened his doors and started serving on home turf. Today up to 30 guests can sit, delight and indulge in Michael’s own special flavor of fine food cuisine - with a whole lot of spirit and even more soul.

What Michael likes about Tellason: They work according to a philosophy which is aligned with his own.

Similarly to Michaels ideals, Tony and Pete use the highest quality ingredients, value true craftsmanship und have a keen sense for the beauty in small details. Being non-conformistic and independent, they offer authentic garments that are classic and unique at the same time. With those principles Tellason represents a free spirit that is always aware of its roots and simultaneously excites us with great ideas on a regular basis – whilst remaining as far away from any mass production as possible. Michael also appreciates that Tony and Pete do not try to represent “tough guy” behavior at all: for example – they recommend to take care of your garments and wash raw denim pieces. The golden thread that links these craftsmen, both Michael and Tellason’s mission is to spoil their customers in the best possible way, with quality: this is why they fit together perfectly. One other commonality between these two: Both are huge “The Clash” aficionados.

Considering the fact that their founder and guitarist Joe Strummer was born in Ankara (Turkey), it is no wonder that Michael’s favorite denim is the Straight Leg Selvedge Jeans “Ankara”, from none other than, Tellason.

» IF IT DOESN‘T

ess, is more. Passion for fine craftsmanship. But above all: a deep appreciation and respect for guests and food. Michael Uhlemann is the true definition of a Master Chef, having evolved his very own unique flavor, in both kitchen and character. Since he moved to the old “Krefelder Schlachthof” (the old butchery) and founded “cuisine m.”, he collects a consistently growing fan-base with his “Soul & Spirit” cooking-philosophy – often accompanied in his kitchen by an album from Social Distortion. His concept is simple: He and his team cook especially for social gatherings and events on advanced booking, either in Krefeld, or on venue and in homes where they are invited by their customers to bring the soul kitchen to them. But when your in Krefeld...if the doors are open and the music is playing, everyone is welcome to wine and dine. The original intention for this space was different: It began as a preparation kitchen, renovated with the purpose of creating fine cuisine and high-class catering menus.

TASTE GOOD IT DOESN‘T GO ON THE MENU.«

MichaEL

U

I Friends and Supporters I

28. 29

Uhlemann

Michael with his favorite garments: Tellason flannel shirt and raw denim jeans, his first Tellason denim jacket and the first “Ankara”, at the B74 store in Frankfurt/Main (Germany).

30. 31

B74

Selected Goods

Q& FORA B74 Selected Goods T »You have been one of the early stores selling Tellason denim. Can you tell us some of the positive aspects of the brand and is there a particular product or style that has performed best over the years? Any style that has proven to be liked by many different body types?« B74 Selected Goods »There is no brand who offers a jean in 6 different fits, 3 different qualities from size 27 up to 40 including size 35 made in San Francisco with Cone Mills fabric.« T »What are a few things you tell people about raw denim that gets the customer who has ­never worn raw denim into their first pair?« B74 Selected Goods »You get the best personal fading the longer you wear your jean without washing.« T »We spend a lot of time and energy focusing on where our fabrics come from and where our goods are cut and sewn. Do customers care about this like we do?« B74 Selected Goods »The brand philo­ sophy and quality fits perfect to our concept, we can offer a Made in USA Jean with a Made in USA fabric and a fair price to all of our clients.« T

»Where do you see Tellason in the future«

B74 Selected Goods where it is !.«

»I am fine with

T »Buzzcocks, The Clash, Blondie, or Sex Pistols?« B74 Selected Goods Presley.«

»Of course Elvis

Kami Hashemi, founder and head of the B74 Concept, is also owner of the oldest Red Wing Shoe Store outside the USA: Red Wing Shoe Store Frankfurt, founded in 1977. There are two more Partner-Stores: “FREITAG FRANKFURT” and brandnew “STETSON STORE FRANKFURT”. Both shops are just a few minutes walk away from the B74 store.

B74 also manages the European distribution for several American Brands.

ABOUT B74 SELECTED GOODS We at B74 SELECTED GOODS Concept Store have a passion and obsession for clothing, accessories, furniture, cars and bikes. Our love for details, hand-crafted stuff and the stories behind all these things keeps us going – day by day! The B74 Store was founded in 2008 and is located in one of the most famous backyards of Mainhattan, Frankfurt City Centre: the former warehouse of Farben Jenisch. With its long history this location completes our philosophy to the maximum.

B74 SELECTED GOODS Berliner Str. 74 60311 Frankfurt, Germany OPENING HOURS Monday to Friday: 12am – 6pm Saturday: 11am – 5pm +49 (0)69 293329 info@B74.de | www.b74.de Instagram ›› @b74selectedgoods @redwingfrankfurt @freitagfrankfurt @stetsonfrankfurt

I The Shops I

32. 33

TELLASON x MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI Classic Pacific Northwest Outdoor Parka in Waxed cotton lined with Blanket lining and denim trims.

Made in Forli, Italy by Manifattura Ceccarelli. Year: 2014. Only 70 pcs made.

TEllason x G.R.P. Knitwear Knitted sweaters in 100% Lambswool made by Maglificio G.R.P. in Tuscany, Italy. Year: 2017.

TEllason x Croots

Leather belt in English Bridle leather with Copper buckle made by CROOTS-England. Year: 2015. Duffle Bag in 16.5oz Cone Mills denim, also by CROOTS-England. Year: 2017.

Tellason x Broska

Silk Bandanas Made in Italy by Broska. Year: 2015. Only 35 pieces made in each colour.

TEllason x Filson

TEllason x JACK/KNIFE Vest made out of dead stock Graniteville Mill Duck canvas by the now defunct JACK/KNIFE crew in San Francisco. Hand waxed with OTTER WAX. Year: 2012. Only 18 pieces made.

Tellason – Made for FILSON, Seattle. Special version of the John Graham Mellor in 12.5oz with zip fly and center belt loop made in Waxed Cotton. Year: 2012.

II Collaborations Core Products I

34. 35

36. 37

A very special collaboration for the 10th anniversary

Unique Varsity jacket made by the renowned company GOLDEN BEAR SPORTSWEAR from San Francisco. Making leather and woolen jackets since 1922.US-Made Dark Navy Melton wool body. Full Aniline Cow leather tanned in the US for sleeves. Silver quilted Acetate lining. Wool rib knit for collar, waistband and cuffs. Inside pocket welt and hanging loop made from raw denim. Snap front closure.

Chenille on leather embroidered “T” patch on chest, Chenille on felt embroidered patch “10” on sleeve. Felt-sew-on lettering and chainstitch embroidery on back. Made on Potrero Hill in San Francisco, Cal. USA. Sizes M – XXL. For Preorder, delivery Sept. 2019.

DISCOVER MEANING & SOUL ON THE ROAD Todd Blubaugh was born and raised in McPherson, Kansas.

His earliest interests were in art and motorbikes and since the age of 12, Todd has been pursuing these two passions. He currently works in film, writes, shoots, and pursues collaborations with his roommates at The Chun, a motorcycle warehouse and art space in Los Angeles.

H

ere‘s what JP of ‘The Selvedge Yard’ wrote about his book ‘Too Far Gone’: “Todd Blubaugh quit his job in pursuit of adventure on the open road. His long-planned trip criss-crossing the nation was meant to be an escape and an opportunity to forge a new existence while pursuing his twin passions for photo­ graphy and motorcycle culture. With the passing of Todd’s parents only days before his expected departure, his journey took on unanticipated gravity. All told, Todd spent six months on the road, touching down in various U.S. cities during his transconti­ nental trip. His time spent traveling marks a personal sea change, and a period of great self-discovery. Too Far Gone is the photographic and anecdotal account of his experiences, presented through short vignettes as well as personal letters and artifacts. Threads of human experience weave throughout the text, presented in Todd’s compassionate voice and providing the reader with deep access to every detail of his trip, from the fine points of motorcycle culture to the deeply personal stories he encountered along the road. Too Far Gone breaks with the traditional motor­cycle adventure narrative, joining mixed media pieces with a compelling story to create an engrossing visual experience.”

» THE SECRET OF LIFE?

JUST ENJOY THE RIDE.«

And Tony Patella on how they met: “Almost nine years ago we were doing a promo at a shop in Seattle and were running a contest – whomever walked in with the most hammered Tellason jeans won a free pair. Todd walked in about half an hour before the event officially began and the contest was over before it even began. A friendship ensued, we made a video together and then decided to co-design a jean that would work well for guys that wear boots, but like us, are allergic to Boot Cut jeans – The BLUBAUGH was born.”

TODD blu

Todd at the book presentation event in Burg&Schild

Store, Berlin, July 2017. Right and below: photos from the book “Too Far Gone”.

ubaugh

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TOO FAR GONE Published by Gingko Press Inc. 248 pages, Hardcover, 9 3/4“ x 9 3/4“ 350 B&W photographs, plus personal artifacts gathered by the author, ISBN: 978-1-58423-621-4 | 24,99 EURO

riders room

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Q & AROOM FOR RIDERS T »You have been one of the early stores selling Tellason denim. Can you tell us some of the positive aspects of the brand and is there a particular product or style that has performed best over the years? Any style that has proven to be liked by many different body types?« RIDERS ROOM »We are convinced of the fit, the quality of the workmanship and the origine (Made in USA).

Here at the Riders Room the John Graham Mellor fit and the Topper shirt are the top sellers. They fit well and work best for most body types.«

T »What are a few things you tell people about raw denim that gets the customer who has ­never worn raw denim into their first pair?« RIDERS ROOM »If a man is looking for a real pair of jeans – it can only be made of raw denim!

What could be an alter­native? Stretch denim? Industrial prewash Used look?

Or maybe a Jogg pant?«

T »We spend a lot of time and energy focusing on where our fabrics come from and where our goods are cut and sewn. Do customers care about this like we do?« RIDERS ROOM »Most customers do not care so much about it - But we do! That is why we point this out and tell everyone.

Because we believe it matters.« T

»Where do you see Tellason in the future«

RIDERS ROOM »Strong and healthy, but hopefully still not grown up.« T »Buzzcocks, The Clash, Blondie, or Sex Pistols?« RIDERS ROOM

»Tony Joe White«

Riders Room Classics for Road + Track since 1995 Thadenstr. 4 22767 Hamburg Germany

Fon +49 40 4308836 post@ridersroom.de www.ridersroom.de Instagram ›› @riders_room Monday – Friday: 11am – 7.30pm Saturday: 11am – 4pm

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TOo NICE TO BE PRODUCED

We could not make these either because the fabric was not available or the quantities sold were too small to be produced.

Pop-Over Shirt in Japanese Selvedge Salt&Pepper fabric.

Coverall Jacket in Japanese Twill lined with printed Camo lining.

ONCE AND NEVER AGAIN These were only made once.

Clampdown Shirt original colour Khaki over-dyed in Natural Indigo in Germany.

Limited to 24 pcs. Year: 2014. Worn by: Julien Walker.

Trucker jacket in Rough-out Cow leather. Hand-waxed. Snap front. Moleskin lining. Made in Italy. Year: 2016. Only 35 pieces produced.

Pocket Tee Made in USA, printed in Berlin for the very first edition of the Selvedge Run, July 2015.

Only 49 pieces produced.

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I Something I Core Products Special I

WORN, USED, BEATEN & BATTERED Tellason garments are made to stand the test of time. They gain character with wear & use.

Some like to treat them bad.

Parka in Waxed Cotton with Blanket lining. Worn 5 years.

Owner: Julien Walker.

Style JOHN GRAHAM MELLOR in 14.75oz. Worn 5 years.

Owner: Matt.

Coverall Jacket in 12.5oz. First model from the very first run for Smith&Butler in 2012. Worn 2 years as work jacket in a shipyard on Lake Constance building Carbon Yachts. Owner: Alexander von Bronewski.

Style ELGIN in 16.5oz. Worn 3 years.

Owner: Pete Searson.

“There‘s a Black Horse.”

John Doe working with his horses in Northern California.

JOH

From Punkrock to Horseback John Doe, is an American singer, songwriter, actor, poet, guitarist and bass player. Doe co-founded LA punk band X, of which he is still an active member. His musical performances and compositions span rock, punk, country and folk music genres.

X

is an American rock band, formed in Los Angeles in 1977, among the first wave of punk. The original members are vocalist Exene Cervenka, vocalist/bassist John Doe, guitarist Billy Zoom and drummer D.J. Bonebrake. The band released seven studio albums from 1980 to 1993. After a period of inactivity during the mid to late 1990s, X reunited in the early 2000s, and currently tours. X‘s first two studio albums, Los Angeles and Wild Gift, were ranked by Rolling Stone as being among the 500 greatest albums of all time.

Since 1990, Doe has recorded nearly a dozen albums as a soloist or in collaboration with other artists, and has contributed tracks to motion pictures. Doe has also maintained a busy second career as an actor, appearing in such films as Oliver Stone‘s Salvador (1986); Slam Dance (1987); Allison Anders‘ Border Radio (1987) and Sugar Town (1999); Patrick

HNDOE » KNOWLEDGE IS THE

Swayze vehicle Road House (1989); the Jerry Lee Lewis biopic Great Balls of Fire! (1989); the independent feature Roadside Prophets (1992), in which he starred with Adam Horovitz of the Beastie Boys; the Lawrence Kasdan Western Wyatt Earp (1994); Paul Thomas Anderson‘s Boogie Nights (1997); Miguel Arteta‘s The Good Girl (2002); Craig Mazin‘s The Specials (2002); and Todd Haynes‘s I‘m Not There about Bob Dylan (2007). He was a regular cast member of the television series Roswell on The WB and UPN, and made a memorable appearance as an aging rock star on a 2003 episode of Law & Order.

MOST POWERFUL THING ON EARTH, HARVEST IT AND USE IT WISELY.«

John Doe lives in Austin, Texas.

Tony Patella: “Several years ago we participated in a pop up shop at the South By Southwest festival in Austin, Texas. We met John Doe there and as it turned out, we were neighbors, living just a couple of miles from each other. We have been fans of JD’s music since 1980 and to our relief, he’s not only a fantastic musician, but a great human being!”

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Stockists AUSTRIA ›› Dantendorfer | Salzburg | www.dantendorfer.at • Haftton | Salzburg | www.haftton.com • Manufactum Warenhaus Wien | Wien | www.manufactum.de

CZECH REPUBLIC ›› Denim Headz | Stare Mesto | CZ | Stanislav Prochatkska | stanislav@denimheads.cz DENMARK ›› BRUND | Kopenhagen | www.brund.dk FRANCE ›› Cockpit | Lyon | www.cockpit-lyon.com • LORD | Nizza | www.lordnice.com • Octopus | La Garde | www.facebook.com/pg/octopus.corner • Wild & Savage | Val Thorens | www.facebook.com/wildandsavage • TBIRD | Paris | www.tbird68.com • Out of Sight | La Baule | www.outofsightshop.com • Urban Kustom Shop | Bordeaux | www.urbankustom.fr • Barnabe | Montpellier | www.shopbarnabe.com • Bienvenue | Annecy Le Vieux | www.bienvenuestore.com • Royal Cheese | Paris | www.royalcheese.com • Indian Rocks | Paris | www.facebook.com/INDIANROCKSTHESHOP • Graduate | Bordeaux | www.graduatestore.fr

GERMANY ›› Bube & König | Nürnberg | www.bubeundkoenig.de • Cultizm | Münster | www.cultizm.com • Heckmann | Darmstadt | www.heckmann-store.com • Ciao Ragazzi | Stuttgart | www.ciaoragazzistore.de • Burg & Schild | Berlin | www.burgundschild.com • Rivers & Winds | Aschaffenburg | www.riversandwinds.com • Gross | München | www.gross-muc.de • 14 oz. | Berlin | www.14oz.com • Riders Room | Hamburg | www.ridersroom.de • Thomas I Punkt | Hamburg | www.thomasipunkt.de • B74 Selected Goods | Frankfurt | www.b74.de • Rough Riders | Regensburg | www.roughriders.eu • Manufactum Warenhaus Bremen | Bremen | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Frankfurt | Frankfurt | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Düsseldorf | Düsseldorf | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Hamburg | Hamburg | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Bremen | Bremen | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Köln | Köln | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Stuttgart | Stuttgart | www.manufactum.de • Manufactum Warenhaus Hannover | Hannover | www.manufactum.de • Bremerich | Illingen | www.bremerich-jeans.de • Harry Damson | Berlin | www.harrydamson.com • Stuf-f | Düsseldorf | www.stuf-f.com • Statement | München | www.statement-store.com • Lederladen | Ulm | www.lederladen-ulm.de • Retronia | Berlin | www.retronia.de • Quartier 97 | Würzburg | www.quartier97.de • Kentaurus | Köln | www.kentaurus.de • Herrenzimmer | Celle | www.herrenzimmer-celle.de • Gents of Cologne | Köln | www.gents-of-cologne.de • Zenit Ingolstadt | Ingolstadt | www.zenit-mode.de • UBS Classics | Sinsheim | www.ubs-classics.de • Zin&Sohn Concept Store | Essen | www.zinselectedgoods.de • Stilkontor | Leipzig | www.stilkontor.com • Stakks | Essen | www.stakks.de

JAPAN ›› Hummingbirds Shop | Shibuya-ku | www.hummingbirdshill.com/shop NETHERLANDS ›› Arborator Denim | Maastricht | www.arborator.nl • Oeben‘s | Utrecht | www.oebens.com SWEDEN ›› Hepcat Store | Lund | www.hepcat.se SWITZERLAND ›› Jeanswerk | St. Gallen | www.jeanswerk.ch • Bruton Hudson | Zürich | www.bruton-hudson.ch • Hudson Surplus | Zürich | www.hudson-surplus.ch • Walpurgis | Lausanne | www.walpurgis-boutiques.ch • John Tweed | Basel | www.johntweed.ch • Jeanslife | Winterthur | www.jeanslife.ch • Corner Garage | Olten | www.corner-garage.ch • Feinfracht | Basel & Bern | www.feinfracht.com • VMC | Zürich | www.vmcoriginal.ch • British Parts | Flawil | www.britishparts.ch • Heritage Station | Genf | www.facebook.com/heritagestation.66 • Denim & Iron | Zürich | www.denimandiron.com • Boutique Gilles | Verbier | www.boutique-gilles.mykom.ch

FOR STOCKISTS ... ... in the UK, Scotland & Ireland please contact Rudy Budhdeo ›› rudy@sonofastag.com ... in Sweden, Denmark, Norway & Finland please contact Marcus Jorgensen ›› marcus@fresch.se ... in Italy please contact Giuliano Ceccarelli at Seattle Italy ›› info@seattleitaly.it ... in Japan please contact Naomi Sugahara at IMEX ›› sugahara@imex-ltd.co.jp ... in Taiwan & Hong Kong please contact Kuan Ming Ling ›› drxxxcowboy@yahoo.com.tw Please check www.tellason.com for American stockists, or contact pete@tellason.com

Imprint Editor-in-Chief | Uwe E. Maier | www.amtraq.com | mail@amtraq.com • Creative Director | Eric Jost | www.life-time-gear.com | ej@jostdesign.com | Writers | Tony Patella | Pete Searson | Uwe E. Maier | Thomas S. Bojer | Ruedi Karrer | Peter Zimmer • Photographers | Todd Blubaugh | Eric Jost | Johan V. Maier | Leonardo Nave | Joern Pollex | Christian Schramm | Katja Velmans | and many others ... • Printing | Diel Druck GmbH | www.dieldruck.de | kontakt@dieldruck.de • Distribution | Amtraq Distribution, Tellason • Head Office | AMTRAQ Distribution Gmbh & Co KG | Berliner Str. 74 | 60311 Frankfurt, GER | phone +49 69 96230423 | www.amtraq.com | mail@amtraq.com TEN | This issue is the first on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of TELLASON. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly forbidden. TEN is printed on Recycling-Offset paper og 100% used paper, FSC certified, and we‘ve only produced 1.500 copies to make sure no paper is wasted.

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www.b74.de

www.b74.de

Classics for Road & Track

Opening Hours Mo to Fr 11 — 18 h 30 Sa 11 — 16 h

Thadenstraße 4 22767 Hamburg — Contact 040 4308836 or post@ridersroom.de — www.ridersroom.de

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www.tellason.com