Eric Perry Art Direction + Graphic Design by Eric Perry

ERIC PERRY ART DIRECTION+ GRAPHIC DESIGN

CIRQUE DE BEAUTÃ&#x2030; EVENT Integrated design and art direction for a special one-day in-store event featuring beauty and cosmetics brands at the Saks Fifth Avenue New York Flagship. VISUAL DISPLAY, BROCHURES, POSTERS, ART DIRECTION, COMMISSIONED ILLUSTRATION, DIGITAL DESIGN

MF JEWELRY WEBSITE An e-commerce website for the Meghan Farrell jewelry brand. DIGITAL DESIGN, E-COMMERCE, BRAND DEVELOPMENT, UX

JANE SUMMERS WEBSITE An e-commerce website for the Jane Summers clothing brand. DIGITAL DESIGN, E-COMMERCE, UX

GUCCI MILESTONES APP A WWD digital special issue featuring Gucci. IPAD APP & EDITORIAL DESIGN

SAKSPOV WEBSITE Modular Wordpress blog re-design for aks Fifth Avenue.

BIKRAM YOGA HARLEM WEBSITE

DIGITAL DESIGN, SOCIAL MEDIA, DEVELOPMENT, UX

Wordpress design, implementation and development for Bikram Yoga Harlem. DIGITAL DESIGN, DEVELOPMENT, UX

EDiTOrs’ piCKs

STYLE.COM/PRINT MAGAZINE

thom browne

dries Van noten

Style.com/Print was a print edition of the website of the same name. Occurring twice a year, it documents the 4 major city fashion weeks for each season.

top looks 18, 21, 1 (pictured) On the soundtrack, Diane Keaton intoned the tale of six fashionobsessed sisters. On the catwalk, Thom Browne paraded their wardrobes. it wAs A peR-

top looks 55, 44, 35 (pictured) Dries Van Noten’s dreamy show will be remembered for the madefor-Instagram moment when the models sat themselves down, Summer of Love-style, on the forest-floor runway. Hundreds of camera phones clicked at once. The truly lasting accomplishment of the collection, though, was Van Noten’s tapestry of gossamer silks and gilded jacquards. A pRe-

foRmAnce piece As oVeR the top As Any bRowne hAs stAged in A cAReeR filled with theAtRicAl indulgences. The differ-

ence this time was the clothes themselves. There were the usual ornate fabrics—twisted, beaded, bangled, almost post-couture in their complexity. (Who could get past the jacket woven from fishing line trimmed in mink?) But Browne cut them into straightforward shapes, which encouraged the eye to appreciate his surreal artistry. Better yet, Stephen Jones distilled each outfit into a hat that perfectly complemented the gorgeous craft of the clothes.

RAphAelite time cApsule by wAy of the eARly 1970 s , VAn noten’s clothes weRe utteRly sumptuous And yet RemARkAbly eAsy to weAR.

EDITORIAL DESIGN

—nicole phelps

top 10

collections As RAnked by the editoRs of style.com

Altuzarra top looks 15, 37, 10 (pictured) Thanks to the commercials for his Target collaboration, by now every TV-watching person in America is familiar with Joseph Altuzarra’s signature sexy look.

erdem top looks 6, 18, 1 (pictured) Erdem Moralioglu’s backstory was all about a famous Victorian biologist and botanist. Sounds academic, but Marianne

spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

—tim blAnks

Altuzarra is too talented a designer to be hemmed in. His Spring show culminated in a trio of radiant floral gowns that were the most ambitious pieces he’s ever done.

top looks 46, 3, 5 If you needed proof that a boundary-busting designer like Nicolas Ghesquière could produce a “wardrobe” for women, you only had to glance at the front row at his show at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. All those starlets looked fantastic in his Fall 2014 debut collection for the house. And the clothes

AnTOniO DE MOrAEs BArrOs FilhO / WirEiMAgE

geometry of greenhouses was a good fit with his own appetite for order, the rest of it had a steamy, sensual feel, with snaking vines, thick green fronds, and feathers sprouting from lush embroidery.

with its cAged leAtheR Vests And pencil skiRts, his lAtest collection will fuRtheR buRnish his ReputAtion foR poised pRoVocAtion. But

louis Vuitton

North was a wild one, and moRAlioglu’s collection wAs one of those wingy, w ondeRful moments when he let himself go. If the

—np

ghesquièRe showed on his spRing 2015 RunwAy RepResented AnotheR step foRwARd, building on the blueprint he laid out last season

but also offering new ideas to please the sensation seekers in his audience. —diRk stAnden

spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

This pAgE, ClOCKWisE FrOM TOp lEFT: KiM WEsTOn ArnOlD / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM (3), YAnnis VlAMOs / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM, KiM WEsTOn ArnOlD / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM. OppOsiTE pAgE, ClOCKWisE FrOM TOp lEFT: giAnni puCCi / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM (3), KiM WEsTOn ArnOlD / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM, YAnnis VlAMOs / inDigiTAliMAgEs.COM.

—tb

bottega Veneta saint laurent top looks 50, 15, 46 Let other designers take a trip to ’70s Bohemia this season. Hedi Slimane had already been there, done that in his pre-collection. For Spring, he took a different detour through the decade that keeps on giving, alighting amid the groupie scene on the Sunset Strip circa 1973. thAt teAse of sleAze gAVe the collection An up-to-the-minute edge that elevated it above most of the nostalgiafests elsewhere. —ds

top looks 33, 39, 8 (pictured) The trick to Bottega Veneta is the way in which luxury is stripped to bare bones. Tomas Maier is revolted by ostentation. Spring was one of his “poorest” collections yet, featuring workout-wear in cotton jersey, deranged gingham, asymmetric indigo denim dresses with raw hems, and random patches of decorative sequins that added to a steady accrual of the chaos Maier enjoys toying with. He gets away with it because he himself is the most disciplined of individuals. heRe, the designeR tipped his cAp to A kindRed, obsessiVe spiRit—the bAlleRinA. Posture

was Maier’s buzzword. The clothes moved with a dancer’s grace. —tb

EDiTOrs’ piCKs

fALL 2014

american spirit

pArTY rEpOrT

“Top 10” Front-of-book Layout Spring 2015

come To Yeezus

kANYE wEST

DISCo SmACk’S joSH QuINToN AND ANDY BRADIN

LAzARo HERNANDEz AND ANjA RuBIk

This season, iT was all abouT The music. Fashion bashes From new York To Paris sTarred an eclecTic lineuP worThY oF coachella. The ParTYing sTarTed wiTh sTYle.com’s own relaunch do, FeaTuring Jamie bocherT on Piano. and iT was caPPed oFF in Paris wiTh a surPrise seT bY kanYe wesT aT a soiree celebraTing Pierre hardY. sPoTiFY ThaT, biTches.

mIRANDA kERR AND fRIENDS

HILARY RHoDA pIERRE HARDY AND HAIDER ACkERmANN

RITA oRA

HumBERTo LEoN AND DREE HEmINGwAY

WHEN THE GOING GETS TOUGH...

HARRY BRANT

NAomI CAmpBELL AND DoNATELLA VERSACE

$15.99

SPRING 2015

fALL 2014

amErIcaN SpIrIT

Clockwise from top left: Spring 2014, Fall 2014, Spring 2015

Spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

$15.99

Display until 2/9/15

Display until 7/21/14

$15.99

NICkI mINAj

EDITA VILkEVICIuTE AND fRIEND jAmIE BoCHERT

ThiS pAgE, ClOCkWiSE frOm TOp righT: DAviD X pruTTing / BfAnYC.COm, pAul pOrTEr / BfAnYC.COm, mATTEO prAnDOni / BfAnYC.COm, BillY fArrEll / BfAnYC.COm, DAviD X pruTTing / BfAnYC.COm, BillY fArrEll / BfAnYC.COm, pATriCk mCmullAn / pATriCkmCmullAn.COm, DAviD X pruTTing / BfAnYC.COm, BillY fArrEll / BfAnYC.COm, DAviD X pruTTing / BfAnYC.COm. OppOSiTE pAgE, TOp rOW, frOm lEfT: COurTESY Of piErrE hArDY (3), COurTESY Of Vogue JApAn. CEnTEr rOW, frOm lEfT: COurTESY Of OlYmpiA lE-TAn, mATTEO prAnDOni / BfAnYC.COm, COurTESY Of ChlOé. BOTTOm rOW, frOm lEfT: JOE SChilDhOrn / BfAnYC.COm, lEAnDrO JuSTEn / BfAnYC.COm, mATTEO prAnDOni /BfAnYC.COm.

ST. VINCENT

CATHERINE mcNEIL

LAuRE HERIARD DuBREuIL, oLYmpIA LE-TAN, AND oLIVIER zAHm BINx wALToN

NADjA BENDER

GIGI HADID AND kENDALL jENNER

CIARA, ANNA DELLo RuSSo, AND RICCARDo TISCI

“Party Report” Front-of-book Layout Spring 2015

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nEW YOrk

STYLE.COM/PRINT MAGAZINE (continued)

Bottega Veneta Well Story Spring 2015

Double Vision Bottega Veneta’s tomas maier giVes the üBer-luxe a hint of the “poor.” as he expands his namesake laBel, he’s making eVeryday clothes seem rich indeed by Tim Blanks

OppOSiTE pAgE: clOThES AnD AccESSOriES bY TOmAS mAiEr, Spring 2015.

nEW YOrk

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tomas maier thinks of eVeryparent company, Tomas Maier, the man, is Maier label has its own space. And that thing. he has, for example, about to give Tomas Maier, the collection, descent from the 15th floor to the sixth is designed the perfect sweata whole new life. too perfect a metaphor to resist. suit for transatlantic flights “It was around before BV, then it took a “The BV office is more of a laboratory,” “because you always have people sleeping backseat because Bottega grew into a lot Maier explains. “People are astonished in front of you or behind you that you recmore than I ever expected,” he says of his when they come. There is nothing much ognize … and you don’t know if you’ll do eponymous line. “About two years ago, it personal. It’s very functional, very cold. some sleepwalking.” It’s hard to tell whether became obvious that we either do it 100 On purpose. It’s just like a backdrop. It the laconic, German-born designer is kidpercent or don’t do it at all. Everything can’t have any color, because we bring ding or whether he is genuinely concerned worked, everything paid for itself, but it that with fabric and skins and swatches, about midair somnambulism. Either way, it was like a weekend job. I’d come in on Satand it changes all the time, so you need a wouldn’t be surprising. urday morning to merchandise the store; neutral surrounding. Downstairs is rawer: Over the course of his 37-year career in I’d go to Paris after showing BV in Milan wood furniture, cement floor, pretty rough. fashion, Maier has worked on everything to buy things for the store. It just got to the It’s an open, floating space, desks back-tofrom mail-order ranges and industrial lines point where I thought, How much longer? I back, people sitting together by force. PR, to the collections of Hermès. For the past didn’t want a weekend job anymore. TM wholesale, retail, creative—everybody sits 13 years he’s been at the helm of Bottega was always financed and run by us, but together. And there’s a common break Veneta, vaunted on its own website as “the we needed more to go to another level. room, where people have breakfast. That’s world’s premier luxury fashion brand.” That’s when the idea came to get somenothing I did. It’s funny—every morning That wealth of experience has shaped one body on board. I didn’t want to mix it all somebody else brings breakfast.” of the industry’s most sinMaier agrees gular, almost paradoxical that each interior aesthetics. “Expensive represents a state of product can at times be mind. “You cue it by very distasteful, too rich, what’s around you, “ThE lAbEl WOrkED, EvErYThing pAiD fOr iTSElf, buT iT WAS likE A WEEkEnD jOb. i’D cOmE in On SATurDAY mOrning too ostentatious—embroilike a stage set,” he TO mErchAnDiSE ThE STOrE. iT gOT TO ThE pOinT WhErE i dery and fur trim making says. “It’s the same ThOughT, how much longer?” it look horrific,” Maier with the stores and declares. The relish with the product, too. which he expresses revulBV is an emotion, sion is the single moment something special, in conversation when he almost like collectiup by going to Kering, but someone finally allows himself to be anything other than bles that you keep for a long time, not just said to me, ‘You should just be talking to measured and moderate. “So I always try a season. I’m perfectly clear it’s not how François-Henri [Pinault].’ So here we are, to make it look poor, in a way,” he continyou pick up your kids at school or how a little more muscle-y and able to do more ues, “because it’s revolting when it looks you spend your weekend.” He makes it product.” And more shops, like the TM rich. And I don’t think the customer we equally clear that TM, on the other hand, flagship that just opened slam-bang in the cater to wants that, either. is exactly how you do those things: “It is for middle of Madison Avenue’s Golden Mile. “I have worked on very expensive prodevery day, very edited and essential, for the It functions as a kind of design manifesto uct and very affordable product,” states relaxed, casual side of life. It’s not another for the brand, with a lifestyle offering— Maier, “and I always find it very interest$4,500 sweatshirt. It’s what you put on home accessories as well as clothing—that ing to work on the affordable, to make a when you come home at night.” reflects Maier’s own refined taste. product that is supposed to be inexpensive f it sounds like TM is his buzz at the Maier insists that nothing fundamental but make it as nice as possible.” Which moment, that may be because Maier has changed with the investment from means the future is only going to be more is emphatic that a restriction such as Kering. Maier’s partner, Andrew Preston, interesting for the designer. Since 1997, he’s affordability stimulates him creatively. doesn’t have to do the books anymore, also been designing a collection of accessiHe harks back to the triangle bikini, one of and Maier doesn’t have to merchandise the ble, affordable sportswear basics under his TM’s early signature pieces: “We had little windows. But nine floors below Bottega’s own name, available in three beautifully money, little material, and the challenge sleek, minimal design studios in the Fuller curated stores, kind of under the radar. was to make a swimsuit without putting Building on East 57th Street, the Tomas Now, with a transfusion from Kering, BV’s

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Spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

photographs by RoBBie Fimmano styling by Tomas maieR art direction by Doug lloyD

OppOSiTE pAgE: clOThES AnD AccESSOriES bY bOTTEgA vEnETA, Spring 2015. Spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

ThiS pAgE AnD OppOSiTE pAgE: clOThES AnD AccESSOriES bY bOTTEgA vEnETA, Spring 2015.

Spring 2015 rEADY-TO-WEAr

ThiS pAgE AnD OppOSiTE pAgE: clOThES AnD AccESSOriES bY bOTTEgA vEnETA, Spring 2015.

STYLE.COM/PRINT MAGAZINE (continued)

brent garbowsky Brussels, WI hanako sasak Sapporo, Japan

alexandra lanZendorf Rockford, IL

curtis hennager Jordan, MN

NEW YORK

caitlin conway North Kingstown, RI

dover s oul

The recenTly unveiled dover STreeT MarkeT haS given The new york reTail Scene an injecTion of SpiriT and perSonaliTy—and iT all beginS wiTh The crew on The SaleS floor photographs by Ari MArcopoulos parker MccoMb Sarasota, FL

sally kerkin Brisbane, Australia

Jeehee kiM Seoul, South Korea

Jason avey San Diego, CA alexandra asainov London, United Kingdom

anatoly kirichenko Brooklyn, NY

winston tolliver Washington, D.C.

ryan inwards Los Angeles, CA bernard gifford Brooklyn, NY

sabrina reales Miami, FL

felicia kovacs Stamford, CT

144

Zach derks Chanute, KS

nina hahn Tokyo, Japan liana Mack Bronx, NY

Jack brotchie London, United Kingdom wesMore perriott New Orleans, LA

lia schryver Albany, NY

daniel paul Brooklyn, NY teresa suddeth Columbus, GA

logan charap Charleston, SC

al-tariq bell New York, NY

FALL 2014 READY-TO-WEAR

eri wakiyaMa Cupertino, CA

grant Martin Portland, OR rhianna Jones Chicago, IL

andrea fishkin New York, NY george oh Fresno, CA

avery noyes Claiborne, MD

kristen deMpsey Mays Landing, NJ

eric schlosberg Miami, FL eliZabeth aMMerMan Amarillo, TX

give uS your STyliSh, your chic, your idioSyncraTically layered MaSSeS yearning To Sell yang li, SiMone rocha, and SupreMe. The sales team at the new Dover Street Market in New York is emblematic of the city’s meltingpot spirit: All demographics are welcome here, and singularity is the norm. “We look for diversity, originality, character, dedication, and enthusiasm for hard work,” explains Adrian Joffe, CEO of Comme des Garçons, the parent company of Dover Street Market. “There is nothing without the staff.” The members of the DSMNY sales team come from all over, with hometowns as near as up the block in Manhattan or as far afield as Seoul, South Korea. They’re all native speakers of a common language, though—the language of cool.

Dover Street Market Well Story Fall 2014

tas tobey Boston, MA david unich New York, NY

Madison Murphy Wantage, NJ hana kiM Seoul, South Korea

bill sagurton Shrewsbury, NJ

A re-launch of the men’s fashion-focused fashion trade magazine published by Fairchild Fashion Group and published quarterly. ART DIRECTION, EDITORIAL DESIGN, BRANDING

Contents Fall’s tailored clothing balances gentlemanly fabrics with a modern silhouette. Page 54

February 2011

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

40 ECKHART AND SOUL Actor Aaron Eckhart bases his craft on a simple theory: “We’re all douches. We’re all heroes.”

17 TALKING POINTS Armani and Ford square off on the red carpet.

Plunge into activewear. Page 46

18 Q&A The retro vision of Oliver Peoples’ Larry Leight.

46 SEA CHANGE Spring’s activewear takes a sophisticated turn with vibrant colors and gimmick-free design.

19 GLOBAL MARKETS Tokyo boutiques with a singular point of view. 20 RETAIL SPACE Five American men’s stores that hit their targets.

52 PACKING HEAT Runway star Riccardo Tisci reveals his secret weapons—and a newfound passion for men’s wear.

21 BY DESIGN Milan Vukmirovic gives Trussardi a fresh edge. 22 DENIM REPORT Jeans makers vie for the celebrity A-list.

54 THE JETÉ SET The New York City Ballet ﬂips over fall suits marked by rich textures and a “Gray Swan” palette.

New York City Ballet’s CHASE FINLAY in Armani Collezioni’s wool coat, Oxxford Clothes’ wool suit and Brioni’s cotton shirt. Isaia tie; Tom Ford scarf; Thomas Pink belt.

�

Contents

February 2011

24 THREADS Mills update heritage fabrics for fall 2012. 26 EDITORS’ PICKS Seventeen pieces of consummate elegance. 30 INSPIRATION Paul Smith looks to the heart of rock ’n’ roll.

The Webster, one of five standout stores. Page 20

32 MAN IN THE NEWS Brunello Cucinelli: fashion’s philosopher king. 36 TECHNOLOGY Men’s stores try to catch the m-commerce wave. 62 ON THE GRID The best of the season’s culture and commerce.

Hermès’ shirt and Dockers’ pants, both in cotton. David Yurman necklace; Tod’s bracelets; TechnoMarine watch; Osklen backpack.

JAY-Z PHOTO BY CHRISTOPHER POLK/GETTY IMAGES; ACTIVEWEAR BY ELI SCHMIDT; UTOPIA BY SANDRO MICHAHELLES

MENSWEAR MAGAZINE

ON THE COVER Oliver Peoples in focus. Page 18

FINLAY PHOTO BY RODOLFO MARTINEZ; WEBSTER BY LEXIE MORELAND

Ermenegildo Zegna suit and tie, both in wool, and Tom Ford cotton shirt. Robert Talbott tie bar. Photo by Matthias Vriens-McGrath. Styled by Alex Badia.

10 | FEBRUARY 2011 | MENSWEAR

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Clockwise from top left: January 2011, April 2011, June 2011, September 2011

Cucinelli’s utopian home. Page 32

The stars go blue. Page 22

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MENSWEAR MAGAZINE (continued) RETAIL SPACE

THREADS

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

by EMILIE MARSH

Rugged suiting fabrics are set for a comeback.

Men’s stores are like brands. The best of them excel while maintaining a clearly deﬁned identity, as evidenced by these ﬁve standouts.

Subalpino

Loden Steiner

A Touch of Classic

The Webster, Miami Beach

Housed in the famed Art Deco-era Webster Hotel on Collins Avenue in South Beach, The Webster offers luxury sportswear, contemporary denim, T-shirts and well-known swimwear brands, along with jewelry and photography for “the enjoyment of Miami Beach tastemakers and jet-setters alike.” Its owners—Laure Hériard Dubreuil, Frederic Dechnik and Milan Vukmirovic, co-founder of the celebrated Paris boutique Colette— offer more than 85 brands, including Band of Outsiders, Dsquared and Tom Ford in men’s. Customers are pampered with private valets and their own personal stylists, and the luxe Paris restaurant Caviar Kaspia operates its ﬁrst U.S. restaurant at the store.

Kilgore Trout, Cleveland

With more than 80 brands and 5,500 square feet devoted to denim in the World Denim Bar at its L.A. ﬂagship, American Rag has what is believed to be the largest denim selection in the country, if not the world, according to men’s buyer James Hammonds. The mix centers around premium brands but actually runs the gamut from Levi’s 501s for $50 to exclusive washes from PRPS for $1,000. The company, founded in 1984 by Mark Werts, will expand its footprint this year by opening a World Denim Bar adjacent to its existing store in Newport Beach, Calif. By the middle of 2011, denim bars will open in Scottsdale, Ariz., and on San Francisco’s Union Square.

Billed as the “Unhurried and Uncommon” store, the 10,000-squarefoot emporium offers luxurious apparel, accessories and home goods for both men and women. Founded in 1977 by Wally Naymon and named after a character who appeared in several novels by Kurt Vonnegut, the store offers everything from sportswear and suits to tuxedos. Top labels include Robert Comstock, Scott Barber, Wellensteyn, Kroon, Agave, Moncler, Robert Talbott, John Varvatos and Eton of Sweden.

Saturdays, New York City

The middle of a concrete jungle may not seem like the most logical place to open a surf shop, but that didn’t stop the owners of Saturdays Surf NYC from choosing Manhattan’s SoHo district for their retail debut. Since it was unveiled on Crosby Street a year and a half ago, Saturdays has generated a tsunami of buzz with its line of contemporary men’s surfwear. The collection makes nods to the old-school style of the Fifties and Sixties, but always with an updated twist. The store also offers other brands with a similar sensibility, such as Riviera Club jeans, as well as all the surﬁng essentials: boards, wet suits and leashes, not to mention books and grooming products.

Mitchells Family of Stores, Westport, Conn.

Since its modest beginnings in 1958, the Mitchell family has cobbled together what is one of the ﬁnest assortments of independent men’s specialty stores in the U.S., comprising Mitchells in Westport, Conn.; Richards in Greenwich, Conn.; Marshs in Huntington, N.Y., and the latest additions, Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco and Thomas Miller on Long Island. All told, the retail juggernaut generates annual sales of more than $100 million a year.

WEBSTER PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; KILGORE TROUT BY BILL SCHUMANN; AMERICAN RAG BY DONATO SARDELLA

American Rag Store, Los Angeles

European mills are giving their heritage fabrics a fresh spin for fall 2012, playing with new finishes, blends and unexpected weights as consumers put a premium on innovation as well as tradition. Irregular surfaces and rugged textures, typically associated with vintage textiles, were the prominent trends weaving through Premiere Vision, the Paris fabric fair held in the fall. “We must remember these are modern times,” says Nino Cerruti, “Men are dressing for owner of Lanificio F.lli Cerruti, the intensity of an whose sporty Parcour collection urban contemporary updates vintage military garments life, but with the chic and the wardrobe of Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton. refinement of the past.” “Men are dressing for the intensity —NINO CERRUTI of an urban contemporary life, but with the chic refinement of the past.” Designer Raf Simons agrees that “strong and masculine” suiting fabrics are dominating fall collections. The focus, says textile designer Franco Fabrello of Marzotto SpA, is on fabrics with a more rugged appeal—dyed, overwashed, even made to resemble denim. “Men want durability, but not if it’s boring,” says Dior Homme’s Kris Van Assche. British mills, including Reid & Taylor and the Clissold Group, are also staying true to their roots while delivering new twists, such as playing with the scale of traditional herringbone and tweed motifs. Irregular finishes, puffy yarns and even classic jaspé with Lycra made the case that there’s beauty in imperfections.

12/23/10 5:29 PM

Loro Piana

“The Swede Life” Stockholm travel, retail and lifestyle story September, 2011

Lanificio F.lli Cerruti

Loro Piana

Ermenegildo Zegna

Lanificio Luigi Colombo

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20 | FEBRUARY 2011 | MENSWEAR

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Reid & Taylor

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PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA AND LUIS CAMPUZANO

talking points

“Editor’s Picks” Front-of-book furnishings story April 2011

12/23/10 10:10 AM

“Talking Points” Front-of-book layouts February 2011

“Talking Points” Front-of-book layouts April 2011

MENSWEAR MAGAZINE (continued)

“Sea Change” Activewear story January 2011

MENSWEAR MAGAZINE (continued) “Just Suit Me” Suiting story March 2011

“Evening News” Men’s suiting story June 2011

MENSWEAR MAGAZINE (continued)

“Scotch Rocks” James McAvoy profile April 2011

M MAGAZINE

Table of Contents Fall 2014

Page 10 : : fall 2014

Page 12 : : fall 2014

table of contents

M is a re-launch of the men’s fashion lifestyle magazine that was shuttered in the early nineties. It is geared toward menswear industry insiders as well as men with a $200,000+ household income.

volume xiii

number 3

Page 54

Contents for Fall 2014 MIx

Editor’s Letter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Michele Pasini Sees a New Milan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 By Alessandra Turra

THE MUST LIST

Two Street-Style Upstarts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 By Elon Green

Christopher Raeburn in His Studio . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Now That’s a Funky Sandal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Stripes: No Longer Just for Lowlifes . . . . . . . . . . 22 Can WildLeaks Save the Elephant? . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Vintage Watches From Christie’s . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Postmodern Suits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 The Big Bob Hope Bio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 David Bowie Takes Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Christophe Lemaire, on His Own . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Return of the Denim Jacket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 2-Gether, 4-Ever: Lulu and George . . . . . . . . . . . 29 A Well-Rounded Pair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Campus Craze: The Coffee Nap . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 European Souvenirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Spring ’15 Inspirations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Ten Plus One . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

♦ ♦ ♦

Page 36

Philipp Plein Doesn’t Care What You Think . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 By Alessandra Turra Futurecore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 By James Scott Linville

♦ ♦ ♦ Page 72

Eddie Redmayne’s London Cool . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 By Christian Lorentzen Photographs by Brian Bowen Smith Fisherman’s Blues: A Moody Take on the Nautical Look . . . . . . . . . . 54 Photographs by Billy Kidd Editor in Chief: Dean Baquet Takes Charge of The New York Times . . . . . . . . . 62 By Sridhar Pappu

Page 62

By Design: The Art of Kris Van Assche . . . . . . . . 68 By Amy Verner A Tour of Secretive Berlin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 By Zeke Turner I Married a Billionaire: Fools and Their Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 By Pola Debevoise

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“I don’t thInk I’m partIcularly a dark person.” —eddie redmayne paGe 45

45: Brian Bowen Smith; 54: Billy Kidd; 36: Paola PanSini; 72: KuBa daBrowSKi; 62: Chad Pitman; 68: Kevin taChman

ART DIRECTION, EDITORIAL DESIGN, REBRANDING

Contributors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

o n t h e c o v e r : e d d i e r e d m ay n e p h o t o g r a p h e d i n l o n d o n b y b r i a n b o w e n s m i t h . s t y l e d b y a l e x b a d i a . g i o r g i o a r m a n i ' s c o t t o n b l a z e r , b o t t e g a v e n e ta ' s s i l k s h i r t w i t h b r u n e l l o c u c i n e l l i ' s w o o l p a n t. g i o r g i o a r m a n i b e lt, k i t o n p o c k e t s q u a r e , a n d g r e n s o n s h o e s .

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Must Men’s looks

iNspiRaTioNs aND iNfluENcEs the roots of the major Spring ’15 trends

T R E N D # 3 : s o f T T a i l o R i N g

Here we Have four trends from tHe latest men’s fasHion sHows. On the left of each quadrant, the incarnation of each for the Spring ’15 runways. In the middle, how the same look has manifested itself through the years in the culture at large. And on the right, how the trend appeared in its heyday.

PREP IN STRIPES Tommy Hilfiger, 1990s

SEASIDE CHIC Clockwise from left: Dior, Michael Kors, Gucci

The inside man / FaLL 2014

kRIS VAN ASSCHE CHANNELS CHRISTIAN DIOR DEAN BAQUET, THE NEW BOSS OF THE NEW YORk TIMES CHRISTOpHE LEMAIRE AFTER HERMèS SECRETS OF BERLIN U.S. MARINE TURNS STREET-STYLE pHOTOGRApHER

e ddi e redmayne

T R E N D # 2 : D E N i m

Kors, Lang: Thomas Iannaccone; moby DIcK: huLTon archIve/geTTy Images; PrIsoner: PoPPerfoTo/geTTy Images; Tommy aD: courTesy of The aDverTIsIng archIves; obama: Im sLoan/afP/geTTy Images; brITney anD JusTIn: Jeffrey mayer/WIreImage; coWboy: geTTy Images; guccI, DIor, WaTanabe, LanvIn, van noTen, acKermann, smITh: gIovannI gIannonI; versace: DavIDe maesTrI; ferry: Ian DIcKson/reDferns; sPanDau baLLeT: mIchaeL PuTLanD/geTTy Images; armanI, ysL: faIrchILD archIve; DougLas: huLTon archIve/geTTy Images; TyLer: JacoPo rauLe/geTTy Images; boy george: JaneTTe becKman/geTTy Images; nureyev: JuLIo Donoso/sygma/corbIs; DaLaI Lama: Lya s. savenoK/fILmmagIc; aLL fILm sTILLs: evereTT coLLecTIon

T R E N D # 1 : N a u T i c a l

american male Helmut Lang, 1990

SPRING BLUES Clockwise from left: Dior, Tom Ford, Junya Watanabe

london co o l

Clockwise from top left: Winter 2013, Spring 2014, Summer 2014, Fall 2014

“Must Gifts” Celebrity holiday gifting Q&A Winter 2013

Go biG Armani Apotheosis, 1989 GO SOFT Clockwise from left: Lanvin, Hugo Boss, Versace

T R E N D # 4 : l o u N g E w E a R

ultimate lounge Yves Saint Laurent, 1974 new BOHeMIAn Clockwise from left: Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Paul Smith

“Inspiration & Influeces” Front-of-book infographic Fall 2014

M MAGAZINE (continued)

“The Pussycat of Wall Street” Euan Rellie profile Spring 2014

M MAGAZINE (continued)

“Re-Introducing Ralph Fiennes” Cover story profile Spring 2014

M MAGAZINE (continued)

a few days before the start of filming the theory of eve ry t h i n g , eddie redmayne visited stephen haw k i n g at his home in ca mbridge, e ng l a n d. “the reality of m e et i n g h i m wa s p r e t t y intimidating,” r e d m ay n e told me. “You’ve done five months of work, you’ve watched everything, you’ve read everything, and you arrive to meet the man. I was left with him, the two of us. Because he can only move the one muscle in his face, now it takes him a wee while to reply in conversation. What he does now is, his eyes move, and his glasses have a sensor. He sees a cursor move across the alphabet, and he uses the muscle below his eye to stop it when it gets to the right letter. So, it can take a while for him to respond. And I’m someone who, as you can hear, suffers from verbal diarrhea. “There was a moment when he was taking some time responding to something. Here I was, filling the air, telling him about himself. I was a nervous wreck. He was laughing a lot. I couldn’t tell if it was with me or at me. Probably a bit of both. He makes a big point in his books that he was born on the eighth of January, which is the date of Galileo’s death. I said, ‘You’re the eighth, and I was actually born on the sixth of January, so we’re both Capricorns.’ ” Long pause, and then the famous computerized voice: “I’m

FROM ETON TO H O L LY wo o d he played a monk in the pillars of the earth, a psycho in hick, and a singing revolutionary in les MiséraBles. now, with the theory of everything, 32-year-old British actor eddie redmayne has pulled off his greatest transforMation yet, eMBodying stephen hawking in a breakthrough role. By ChRISTIAN LORENTZEN photographs By BRIAN BOwEN SmITh styled By ALEx BAdIA

enjoy w h at i do,

with

f e a r. ”

“i d o n o r m a l l y q u i t e

Redmayne’s stars, meanwhile, seem to be aligning. The Theory of Everything is due out November 7, and Redmayne’s performance— inhabiting not just a famous character, but one who is subjected to a gradual and total disability—is the sort that has been known to earn an actor a statuette or two. February will see the release of Jupiter Ascending, a space opera by the Matrix auteurs Andy and Lana Wachowski. Redmayne stars as one of the villains opposite galactic saviors Mila Kunis and Channing Tatum. At 32, Redmayne is engaged to longtime girlfriend Hannah Bagshawe, who is head of global public relations at Mergermarket Ltd., an international media company specializing in financial news, with headquarters in London, New York, and Hong Kong. He wouldn’t say if they have set a date and wouldn’t say much

about her when asked directly, but she kept appearing in his anecdotes—dragging him to bookstores because of her obsession with the Bloomsbury Group; putting up with him when he comes home from movie sets and has a hard time getting out of character; counseling him through an embarrassing charity tennis match. Redmayne is boyish, thoroughly freckled, and unceasingly earnest when he talks about his work. Sitting down with him on the terrace café of the Young Vic theater, just south of the Thames and around the corner from the actor’s flat, in the part-Dickensian, part-pomo London neighborhood of Borough, I remarked that, from all I have heard about him, he seems not to have a dark side. I asked if he had ever been in a fight. “Pathetically, I haven’t, other than the odd shove in the queue to a club when I was 18, 19.” That morning, I had watched him in Hick (2011), one of those train wrecks of a film with a cast so good (Chloë Grace Moretz, Blake Lively, Juliette Lewis, Alec Baldwin) that you can’t stop watching, if only to see which wrong move will come next. Redmayne

plays a drifter who saves a teenage runaway, played by Moretz, from a rapist barfly by bludgeoning him to death with a sink he rips off the ladies’-room wall. (“That was my superhero moment,” he says.) But Redmayne’s character later rapes the girl himself and accidently kills Blake Lively’s character with a pistol he doesn’t know is loaded. “The hard thing about Hick,” he said, “was trying to play a character who’s hideously unlikable, but, for some reason, the kid keeps getting back in the car. So the challenge was, how do you make someone who’s hideously repugnant have a bit of charm, too? But, no, I don’t think I’m a particularly dark person. “It’s often roles that are closer to home that I’m less successful at or that I find weirdly more difficult, because you don’t have to leap off the precipice. I don’t know about the success of it, but My Week With Marilyn”—the 2011 film in which Redmayne’s character looks after, goes skinnydipping with, and smooches Michelle Williams’ Marilyn Monroe—“I found really challenging, even though, on paper, it’s basically of who I am:

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b u t i’m a l s o r i d d l e d

“From Eton to Hollywood” Cover story profile Fall 2014

an astronomer, not an astrologer,” Hawking said. “I t h o u g h t , H o ly s h i t ,” Redmayne said. “Stephen Hawking thinks the actor who’s playing him thinks he’s Mystic Meg or Shelley von Strunckel.”

Funny how things work out

Redmayne, who is mad for the stage, knew almost nothing about movies before he acted for the screen. He says he has Scarlett Johansson to thank for his education in film. opening page: burberry prorsum's jacket and hermès' shirt, both in silk . this page : berluti ’s cotton jacket and pants with dunhill’s cotton shirt. prada belt; louis vuitton shoes .

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“Imagine if you were breaking up with someone,” he said, “and you can’t intonate—you can only press play . All he can do is nudge.” Much of the dramatic burden falls on Jones at this point in the film. “This job on her was incredibly difficult,” Redmayne said. “She had so many confines. She was a complete support, in the way that Jane was to Stephen.” The film brought Redmayne back to Cambridge. He didn’t at first realize he was returning to part of his own life. “I was in such a myopic bubble,” he said. “About three days into filming in Cambridge, I got a text message from my mum, to the effect of how amazing that, ten years on, you’re back where you were lucky enough to go to university. In Cambridge, all the place’s history is on display. It’s a staggeringly romantic place.” Hawking himself spent a few days on set. “He entirely holds the room in the most extraordinary way. And he’s fucking funny. He really is genuinely funny. And a ladies’ man. People just flock to him.”

someone who went to Eton and works in the film industry. That film I found really hard because he’s a cipher for the audience.” The role got him a nomination for BAFTA’s Rising Star Award. Redmayne was born in London, in 1982, and his family still lives in Chelsea. It’s fair to say they’re well-placed in the English establishment: His father, Richard, is a banker in the City of London, and his half brother, Charlie, is the CEO of HarperCollins U.K. Redmayne went to Eton College, the alternately revered and resented incubator that turns pimply teenage boys into Britain’s ruling class. Those Old Etonians I’ve met tend to move through the world with the self-deprecating charm that can only be the handmaid of a steely inner confidence, and Redmayne is no exception. Nineteen have become prime ministers. David Cameron, class of 1984, has been repeatedly criticized for picking a Cabinet that could easily be mistaken for an Old Etonian cabal. The list of writers educated at Eton—Percy Shelley, George Orwell, Cyril Connolly, Anthony Powell, Henry Green, Ian Fleming—is more recognizable than the roster of actors, at least to American eyes. The most famous of Redmayne’s classmates is Prince William, with whom he played a bit of rugby. I happen to know several of Redmayne’s classmates and spent a weekend in Spain (a “stag do,” as the English call their bachelor parties) with quite a few of them, days that involved a high degree of tipsy laddishness (toreador outfit, go-karts, cheese, not a little vomiting into trash cans). “What did those Judases tell you?” Redmayne asked. But my efforts to uncover embarrassing, or at least interesting, details about Redmayne’s time at school were met with a sort of Old Etonian omertà. “Sorry, mate, can’t help you,” was the standard reply. Others responded as if they had internalized the discipline of a flack at the onset of puberty. “He was clearly brilliant from the start, the star of the school play as soon as he got there, at age 13”; “I think he’s got a real respect for the craft of acting. And he didn’t go to drama school.” So much for my contacts. One Old Etonian, a few years Redmayne’s junior, said he was “prefecty,” adding, “He was the sort of prefect you were meant to hate, but you couldn’t, because he was so nice. Really good actor and singer.” Redmayne considered drama school after Eton but, instead, decided to go to Trinity College, Cambridge—alumni: Newton, Byron, Tennyson, Wittgenstein, Nabokov, Niels Bohr—and study art history. He wrote a thesis on nouveau réalisme painter Yves Klein, but, in 2002, he had the opportunity to play Viola in Twelfth Night, opposite Mark Rylance. “I was doing what I did at school, which is boys playing girls,” he said. “And then I went up to Liverpool and did Athol Fugard’s “Master Harold”…and the Boys. I was living in a bedsit in Liverpool, doing this play, and no one particularly well-known was in it, and no one was coming to see it.” But he was enjoying the work. “I realized this was what I wanted. “And then I did a play in London”—Edward Albee’s The Goat, or Who Is Sylvia?, in its first U.K. production, in 2004—“and Albee came and hung out, and he was pretty inspiring. And that whetted my appetite for doing new plays and working with writers.” (It was also the start of a minor theme of sexual deviancy in Redmayne’s work: His character, Billy, falls in love with a goat; he has gone on to play a pedophile in Hick and the object of Julianne Moore’s motherly lust in 2007’s Savage Grace.) A review in Variety caught the attention of the casting director for the CIA morality tale The Good Shepherd, directed by Robert De Niro. “She said, ‘I want you to come back and meet Bob this afternoon.’ I was like, Who? ‘Bob De Niro.’ Fuck. “When I came back, the casting couch was full of the best actors in

Just before he began prepping for The Theory of Everything, Redmayne wrapped Jupiter Ascending. “There, I was dressed in some extraordinary outfits,” he said. “I was made to go and spend six months eating chicken in an attempt to get a six-pack on my pallid body. I was endlessly doing these scenes, tensing my tummy muscles. Then, the worst thing was, I was hoping I’d get to go on one holiday where I’d, for once, have something resembling a six-pack, but then the day it finished, I immediately had to begin starving myself for Hawking.” Because of budget constraints, Theory was shot non-chronologically. On the first day of shooting exteriors, Redmayne went from playing a healthy Hawking, to using a pair of canes, to sitting in the wheelchair. Continuity was a challenge, he said. “I needed the script to be absolutely airtight, because once that figure stops working, it doesn’t start again. With motor-neuron disease, you have upper neurons and lower neurons. The upper neurons are

rigid, and the lower neurons are soft. So, you could have a rigid shoulder and a soft wrist. There was a detective-work aspect to the job of finding pictures of Stephen at the different stages of his illness and re-creating them on-screen. “I don’t know whether I’d call it fun. I do normally quite enjoy what I do, but I’m also riddled with fear. Particularly on that job, when you’re playing an extraordinary man, a living icon, you’re representing a disease that people I’ve met—I spent three or four months visiting a motor-neuron clinic and meeting families—have suffered. And then you feel a responsibility to the science and a need to find the emotional truth of what happened between these people. All of these things were pretty challenging, and I was fueled with fear from the word go. Before I read the script, I had no idea there was this beautiful love story behind this iconic figure who, when I was at university, I’d occasionally see going by on campus.”

After the film was finished, Redmayne returned to art history, working on a British TV documentary about art from World War One. In London, his hobby is playing the piano. He bought himself a baby grand with the money he made on Les Misérables (2012), then held his breath and left the room as it was hoisted from the street and through his flat’s window. His next project will reunite him with Les Misérables director Tom Hooper, playing the artist Einar Wegener, who became Lili Elbe—another challenge that has plunged Redmayne into lots of reading, this time in gender theory. On the notepad I brought along, there was one compromising phrase I had gotten from the Old Etonian Judases: “frog voice.” I pointed it out to Redmayne. “Oh, that I sound like a frog when I sing? Who said that?” he said. “Yup, good. Thanks, Judases. Well, the Muppets did a parody of Les Mis, and Kermit the Frog sang my part. It was pretty much bang-on.”

the old etonian

prior to attending Cambridge’s Trinity College, Redmayne graduated from eton College, whose alumni include percy Shelley, george Orwell, and david Cameron. School chums contacted by M had only nice things to say about him—“clearly brilliant,” et cetera. lefT: lAnvin’S COTTOn SHiRT And gieveS & HAWkeS’ COTTOn pAnTS. RigHT: eRMenegildO zegnA COuTuRe’S COTTOn SWeATeR And vAlenTinO’S WOOl pAnTS. giORgiO ARMAni BelT; OvAdiA & SOnS SCARf; lOuiS vuiTTOn SHOeS.

HAiR And gROOMing By JOHnnie SApOng AT Jed ROOT,

history boy

uSing pHyTO And SHu ueMuRA. TAilORing By leAH HAll,

So far in his career, Redmayne has been the go-to actor for period pieces, having appeared in films and BBC miniseries set during the Middle Ages, the early sixteenth century, the late sixteenth century, the nineteenth century, World War One, World War Two, and the 1950s.

AT WWW.CHApMAnBuRRell.COM. fASHiOn ASSiSTAnT: iRAnzu BAkeR. WATCH THROugHOuT: OMegA.

lefT: pRAdA’S WOOl SWeATeR And COTTOn SHiRT. THiS pAge: lOuiS vuiTTOn’S Silk COAT And WOOl pAnTS, eRMenegildO zegnA COuTuRe’S WOOl BlAzeR, And BeRluTi’S COTTOn T-SHiRT. BeRluTi lOAfeRS.

M MAGAZINE (continued)

“Soft Power” Soft tailoring trend story Spring 2014

“The 24 Hour Man” Urban trends featuring model Jarrod Scott Winter 2013

WWD ACCESSORIES MAGAZINE A twice annual supplementary issue to Women’s Wear Daily subscribers and women’s accessory insiders. ART DIRECTION, EDITORIAL DESIGN, ILLUSTRATION

“Belle Epoque” Kristen Bell profile

“All About Eva” Vintage Lingerie Trend Story

Spring 2010, Fall 2010 Covers

“Shadow Dance” Accessories story

“D.V. Worthy” Diana Vreeland-inspired accessories

libr a ry

FraGraNCE

SAKS FRAGRANCE LIBRARY Logo development and art direction for a store visual concept that allow customers to shop for new fragrances as well as shop for their favorites. VISUAL DISPLAY, ART DIRECTION, WORDMARK

Diana Schade <Diana_ Schade@s5a.com>

60 Up to

40 Up to

SAKS SALE CAMPAIGN

% oFF

good things

coMe to those Who shop Shop our event and receive a Gift Card good toward future shopping

get your

wardrobe

POSTERS, ART DIRECTION, COMMISSIONED ILLUSTRATION

card worth up to

700

selections throughout the store and on saks.com

Design and art direction for the 2015 sale campaign for Saks Fifth Avenue.

Get a giFt

$35 with $250 purchase $75 with $500 purchase

in shape

get

$150 with $1000 purchase

crafty With your closet

$450 with $2000 purchase $700 with $3000 purchase

Thursday, February 6 50% to 60% oFF selections for her 55% oFF selections for him

SALE IS 30% OFF SELECTIONS FOR HIM AND 30% TO 40% OFF SELECTIONS FOR HER

*this sale represeNts perceNtage off origiNal prices. taKe 33% off origiNal prices for her for a total of 50% to 60% off origiNal prices. taKe 50% off origiNal prices for him. selected merchaNdise oNlY. Not all departmeNts iNcluded iN sale. Not all departmeNts iN all saKs fifth aveNue stores. iNtermediate marKdoWNs maY have occurred prior to this sale. No adJustmeNts to prior purchases uNless merchaNdise is marKed doWN WithiN 7 daYs of beiNg purchased at full price. excludes saKs fifth aveNue off 5th stores. prices at saKs.com alreadY reflect reductioN. sale eNds 7/1/14.

XXX-XXXX

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SAKS PACKAGING PROGRAM Design and art direction for a new elevated packaging program for Saks Fifth Avenue including bags, boxes, and ribbons. PACKAGING, DESIGN, ART DIRECTION

GARDEN PARTY EVENT COLLATERAL G A R D E N

Print design work for an annual LGBT Pride food tasting event for The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Community Center in NYC. Designed pieces also included letterhead, posters and signage. G A R D E N PA R T Y 3 1 I S S U P P O R T E D B Y

I S

ARTY 31 GARDEN P ARTNERS TA S T I N G P

S U P P O R T E D

The Center also sincerely thanks the many tasting partners here tonight that generously donated their staff, time and delicious food to Garden Party in celebration of our work. We know you will enjoy sampling their delectable offerings, and I hope you will be sure to visit their permanent locations in recognition of their support for The Center, Pride The Center’s Board of Directors and Executive Director Glennda Testone and the LGBT community.

B Y

Invite You To

presenting sponsor

As you make the rounds and check out all of the culinary treats that we have to offer, be sure to make a stop at the silent auction. There are fantastic packages and items to bid on, and you won’t want to miss this opportunity to stake your claim on your favorites! We are honored to welcome back Prudential, our longtime Garden Party presenting sponsor. The Center also thanks the many corporate and media partners who support our vital work made possible through tonight’s event.

sponsors

3 1

I S

FROM OUR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

presenting sponsor

P A R T Y

3 1

presenting spon sor

EVENT DESIGN, ART DIRECTION, ILLUSTRATION, LOGO DESIGN, PRODUCTION

G A R D E N

PA R T Y

Community Center is at the heart of the LGBT community in New York City, providing quality health and wellness programs in a welcoming space that fosters connections and celebrates our cultural contributions. Each year, The Center welcomes more than 300,000 visits to our building from people who engage in our life-changing and lifesaving activities. We are proud to be your community Center. To learn more about our work, please visit gaycenter.org.

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Beth A. Brooke a member c Policy at EY and is al Vice Chair - Publi nsibility Beth A. Brooke is Glob has public policy respo Executive Board. Beth has global of the firm’s Global tries. In addition, she coun 150 in been tions ess efforts. She has for the firm’s opera siven Inclu and sity firm’s Diver Women, responsibility for the d’s 100 Most Powerful is the list of Forbes Worl Beth to e. times dwid six d Worl name by Concern Woman of the Year in the and was named 2009 rm to make a difference her leadership platfo women around of nt passionate about using ceme advan ted advocate for the ction, from world. She is a devo e, with highest distin an undergraduate degre omputer the world. Beth has trial Management/C e she majored in Indus tball. Purdue University, wher Baske en’s Wom g Intercollegiate Science, while playin

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Print design work for an annual fundraising event for The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Community Center in NYC. Designed pieces also included a e S letterhead, posters and signage. PowerPoint presentation, Nt 16 HoNore Wo m e N ’S e V e

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Helping women become leaders makes all the difference in what we’re building toward at EY. We’re pleased to congratulate The Center’s Women’s Event XVI honorees, Laverne Cox, Joy Tomchin and our own Beth Brooke.

XVI

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Women’s Event raises funds for The Center’s diverse array of programs and services, including those that directly benefit lesbians, bisexual women and transgender people. Every day at The Center, young women build their self-esteem and access support through our youth program; lesbian couples become a family with the help of our families programming; and women receive counseling, cancer education, free mammograms and referrals for services through our Lesbian Cancer Initiative. Your generous gifts are vital in assuring that these programs remain possible.

Produced by aNd beNefItINg

The Center is proud to celebrate our 16th annual Women’s Event and recognize Laverne Cox, star of the hit TV show “Orange is the New Black,” for her role in breaking the trans glass ceiling. The Center is also thrilled to recognize Beth Brooke, Global Vice Chair Public Policy at EY, for her commitment to the LGBT community and her dedication to working within a company culture to move it beyond diversity, towards human equality. We also celebrate Joy Tomchin for her 30 years of supporting countless LGBT, HIV, women’s and children’s rights organizations as both an activist and a donor.

ExECUTivE diRECTOR Glennda Testone PREsidENT Brian C. Offutt CO-CHAiRs

BOARd Of diRECTORs

PAsT PREsidENTs

James Anderson H. Gwen Marcus

Stephanie Battaglino Orlan Boston Kelli Carpenter Phyllis Dicker John Hadity Keith Jacobson Darilyn T. Olidge Samuel W. Rosenblatt Aimee Saginaw Baljit Singh Greg Zaffiro

Irving Cooperberg David Nimmons Steven J. Powsner Judith E. Turkel Richard Winger Bruce Anderson Mario J. Palumbo, Jr.

TREAsURER Timothy Chow AT-LARgE MEMBERs Of ExECUTivE COMMiTTEE Julie Harris Tom Kirdahy

a f t e r Pa r t y After PArty Co-ChAirs

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THE CENTER is sUPPORTEd By

event co-chairs

Sarah M. Jubinski, Erica Kagan & Andrea Minkow

SAturdAy, NovEMbEr 23, 2013

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the Women’s Event 16 ticket includes admission to the After Party. A limited number of advance After Party tickets are available for $50. regular price tickets are $75, which includes dancing, dessert and open bar.

9/24/13 9:55 PM

tickets for the After Party must be purchased online at gaycenter.org/womensevent.

ABOUT THE CENTER Established in 1983, the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center is at the heart of the LGBT community in New York City, providing quality MediA sPonsors health and wellness programs in a welcoming space that fosters connections and celebrates our cultural contributions. We strive to serve the LGBT community with a full-service, multifaceted approach to programming, from hosting arts and entertainment events, advocacy groups and family gatherings to offering youth, recovery and overall wellness programs. Each year, The Center welcomes more than 300,000 visits from people who engage in our life-changing and life-saving activities. We are proud to be your community Center. To learn host CoMMittee & MAJor suPPorters* more about our work, please visit gaycenter.org.

Invitation

9/24/13 9:55 PM

CorPorAte sPonsorshiP oPPortunities For information on sponsorship opportunities and the corporate benefits of supporting Women’s Event 16, please contact Anna Hauptmann, Special Events Manager, at 646.358.1722 or ahauptmann@gaycenter.org.

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*List as of September 23, 2013. Complete listing of Host Committee & Major Supporters on gaycenter.org/womensevent.

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MAGAZINE

Aimee Saginaw John Hadity & Scott davis brian offutt & Neil rhodes Julie Harris & Amy yoakum bruce Anderson Kelli Carpenter & Anne Steele Claire Shanley Kerryann Cook darilyn t. olidge & Mechelle Evans lisa A. linsky & Fiona Hodgson dr. Catherine Polera & Jennifer young Margaret diZerega & Chiemi Suzuki Edie Windsor Paul Gruber & Keith Champagne Erica Kagan Phyllis dicker & Peggy traub Finn brigham & Kendall Farrell rabbi Sharon Kleinbaum & randi Weingarten Glennda testone & Jama Shelton rosemarie Pacheco & tracey deyro Gwen Marcus & Nancy Alpert Seth M. rosen & Jacob K. Goertz Jen Hatch/Christopher Street Financial Stephanie battaglino & Mari rosenberger tanya Grubich & Stephenie Harris

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The Women’s Event 16 Host Committee, honorary chair H. Gwen Marcus, Esq., Stephanie Battaglino, Lisa A. Linsky, Esq. and Aimee Saginaw and the Board of Directors of

the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center

XVI

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7 p. m . C o c k t a i l s , H o r s d ’ O e u v r e s & S i l e n t Au c t i o n 8 p. m . Dinner & Program 1 0 p. m . Dancing & Dessert

For additional information, please visit gaycenter.org/womensevent, call 646.358.1722 or email events@gaycenter.org.

Wom e N ’ S e V e N t 1 6 H o N o r e e S LAverne Cox Laverne Cox is a critically acclaimed actress who can currently be seen in the Netflix original series “Orange is The New Black,” where she plays the groundbreaking role of Sophia Burset, an incarcerated African American transgender woman. Laverne is the first trans woman of color to have a leading role on a mainstream television show, to produce and star in her own television show, VH1’s “TRANSForm Me” and also the first trans woman of color to appear on an American reality television program, VH1’s “I Wanna Work for Diddy.” She was named one of the top 50 trans icons by The Huffington Post, one of Out magazine’s Out 100 and Metrosource magazine’s 55 People We Love. Laverne is a renowned speaker and has taken her empowering message of moving beyond gender expectations to live more authentically all over the country. Beth A. Brooke Beth A. Brooke is Global Vice Chair - Public Policy at EY and is a member of the firm’s Global Executive Board. Beth has public policy responsibility for the firm’s operations in 150 countries. In addition, she has global responsibility for the firm’s Diversity and Inclusiveness efforts. She has been named six times to the list of Forbes World’s 100 Most Powerful Women, and was named 2009 Woman of the Year by Concern Worldwide. Beth is passionate about using her leadership platform to make a difference in the world. She is a devoted advocate for the advancement of women around the world. Beth has an undergraduate degree, with highest distinction, from Purdue University, where she majored in Industrial Management/Computer Science, while playing Intercollegiate Women’s Basketball. Joy toMChin A nationally recognized activist in the LGBT, women’s and children’s rights movements, Joy joined the Board of Directors of the Gay Men’s Health Crisis in 1987, and served as GMHC’s Board President from 1989-1992, cofounding the Lesbian AIDS Project. In October of 1990, Joy was appointed by Mayor David Dinkins to the Board of the Economic Development Corporation of the City of New York and served for four years as the Board’s only openly LGBT member. She served as the national co-chair of the Gay and Lesbian Victory Fund from 1992-1996. In 2012, she co-founded Public Square Films, a social issues film and TV production company based in New York. Joy is executive producer of the documentary, “How to Survive a Plague,” directed by award-winning journalist David France. This film was a finalist for an Academy Award. Joy lives in Chelsea with her son, Evan.

9/24/13 9:55 PM

CENTER DINNER Print design work for an annual fundraising event for The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Community Center in NYC. Designed pieces also included two PowerPoint presentations, letterhead, posters and signage. EVENT DESIGN, ART DIRECTION, ILLUSTRATION, LOGO DESIGN, PRODUCTION

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Event Chairs timothy chow, greg zaffiro and doak sergent, Dinner Hosts and the Board of Directors of The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center

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CENTER DINNER HONOREES

Center dinner honorees

THE CALAMUS FOUNDATION

community impact award

Matthew Ailey & Greg Zaffiro Conor McGill James Anderson & Dror Katzir Terrence Meck & Breton Alberti ABOUT THE CENTER Established in 1983, the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center is at the heart of the LGBT community Brian Babst Ken B. Mehlman Invite You To in New quality health and wellness programs in a welcoming space that fosters connections and celebrates our cultural Ken Banta & Tony PoweYork City, providingJustin Miller contributions. Each year, The Center welcomes more than 300,000 visits to our building from people who engage in our life-changing and Ronny Baroody Brendan Coolidge Monaghan life-saving activities. We are proud to be your community Center. To learn more about our work, please visit gaycenter.org. Michael A. Benevento Juan Pablo (JP) Moncayo Alexis Bittar Mario J. Palumbo, Jr. & Stefan Gargiulo Eric Blomquist & Pete Webb Samuel W. Rosenblatt & Mario D’Andrea N T E Joshua Blumenfeld Fabio Salles Orlan Boston & Tomas Mikuzis Todd Sears & Chris Garvin Eric Brinker Doak Sergent & Neil Marks Rob Caldwell & James Jaxxa Claire M Shanley & Heather Halliday t h u r s d ay a p r i l 3 Cipria Oliver Chen Johann Shudlick Guy Chetwynd Jan Siegmund & Ben Maddox Timothy Chow Mark Silver Billy Clark Baljit Singh & Murphy Heyliger I E Cary Davis & John McGinn Casey Smith N N Daniel Ennis Jon Stryker & Slobodan Randjelovi Glennda Testone & Jama Shelton Jeff Gates & Michael Moran The Calamus Foundation Paul Gruber & Keith Champagne Bronson van Wyck John Hadity & Scott Davis Jed Weisman Keith Harman 55 Wall Street, New York City Billy Wheelan Julie Harris 6:30 p.m. Cocktail Reception 7:30 p.m. Dinner Christopher Wheeldon Simon Huck Scott Widmeyer Bob Kasunic Jon Wilner & Bob Howard Tom Kirdahy & Terrence McNally Sheridan Wright Mark Longstreth gaycenter.org/centerdinner Garrett Wubben David McCann

Brian Offutt Keith Jacobson

community impact award

n i Wa l l s t r e e t

corporate ally award

FOUNDED BY SAUL KAPLAN 1934-2004

PAsT PREsiDENTs Brian Offutt Mario J. Palumbo Jr. Bruce Anderson Richard Winger Judith E. Turkel Steven J. Powsner David Nimmons C o m m i Irving t t eCooperberg e

Welcome You To

corporate ally award

55 Wall Street, New York City 6:30 p.m. Cocktail Reception 7:30 p.m. Dinner

Philanthropy Dedicated To The LGBT Community, HIV/AIDS and Architectural Education

For additional information, please call 646.358.1722 or email ahauptmann@gaycenter.org. THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2014

host committee and supporters list as of february 12, 2014

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Event program

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Event Chairs timothy chow, greg zaffiro and doak sergent, our Center Dinner Hosts and the Board of Directors of The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center

THE 2014 CENTER DiNNER is sUPPORTED By

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20 THE CENTER is sUPPORTED By

BOARD Of DiRECTORs Stephanie Battaglino Kelli Carpenter Phyllis Dicker John Hadity Darilyn T. Olidge, Esq. Samuel W. Rosenblatt Aimee E. Saginaw, Esq. Doak Sergent Claire M Shanley Jan Siegmund Baljit Singh, MD Scott Widmeyer Greg Zaffiro

PREsiDENT Timothy Chow

Event Logo “Seal”

ABOUT THE CEN TER Established in 1983, the Lesb in New York City ian, Gay, Bisexual , prov & Transgender Com contributions. Each iding quality health and wellness munity Center is programs in a welc year, The Center at the heart of the life-saving activ welcomes more oming space that LGBT community ities. We are prou than 300,000 visit fosters connectio d to be your com s to our building ns and celebrat munity Center. To es our cultural from people who learn more about engage in our lifeour work, please changing and visit gaycenter.org .

Invitation

ExECUTivE DiRECTOR Glennda Testone

MEDiA sPONsO

gaycenter.org/centerdinner For additional information, please call 646.358.1722 or email ahauptmann@gaycenter.org.

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Event Chairs timothy chow, greg zaffiro and doak sergent, our Center Dinner Hosts and the Board of Directors of The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center