Fashion Report / Stereotypes by Eri Driva

BREAKING STEREOTYPES PREPARED BY ERI DRIVA

UNIT EFMC 7006

ABSTRACT

The modern world is changing its face faster and faster and as a result numerous of political, social and legal issues are on the spotlights more and more every year, with people, especially younger Millennials and Generation Z, who want to participate more than ever to a world’s improvement and changing movement, they want to have an impact on the world. Technology and social media are in a new level and they are developing with outrageous rates, that has as a result to reach a new era of identity crisis and the future of lifestyles will continue to reshape. In addition beauty rebellion is changing the face of standards, with support of this idea from everyone is becoming a growing considerable topic. People’s lives are on the top of the list, but on the other hand the background of that is more complex. But what about fashion? How this massive and influential industry can take action? As fashion industry has an impact on people’s lives in everyday bases, consciously or not, can play an important role in this situation. Fashion can talk without words and it can break stereotypes and taboos in a blink of an eye, with runways and campaigns. It’s an industry, which for decades has a specific beauty face and persona, but now it has to give a clear message, which will embrace all the people around the world to be, who they really are. With the consumer behaviors and attitudes being in the front row of interest, this study reveals how the social and personal environment is forming nowadays with the reasoning behind it and how fashion is responding and participating to the continued modification of how people see the world.

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION

1.1 POLITICAL SCENE

1.2 FASHION POLITICAL STATEMENTS

CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 IDENTITY CRISIS

2.1.1 THE GENDERLESS ERA

2.1.1.1 'ME' GENDER FASHION

FO ELBAT

ONTENTS

CAMPAIGNS

2.1.2 BEAUTY REBELLION

CHAPTER 3: RESEARCH

3.1 CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION/ CASE STUDIES: MODELS

3.2 CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION/ CASE STUDIES: FASHION CAMPAIGNS

3.3 REPORTS

3.3.1 DR. BEN BARRY'S RESEARCH

3.3.2 FASHION ADS REPORTS

3.3.3 FASHION RUNWAYS REPORTS

3.3.4 DIVERSITY REPORTS

CHAPTER 4: CONCLUSION

4.1 FURTHER RESEARCH

4.1.1 TATTOOS & IDENTITY

4.1.2 TATTOOS IN FASHION

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION

1.1 POLITICAL SCENE

Gender equality, LGBTQIA (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, queer, intersex and asexual) rights and race issues are on the rise in the politic scene today after the election of Donald Trump as President of the United States. 2016 was a year of surprises, Trump has made this cycle the most gendered presidential election in history. The current president political positions have created a big buzz, especially with his “signature issue” about illegal immigration and in particular about building and expanding a border wall between USA and Mexico. The highlight of that position was the “pause” on granting green card. In addition to all this Donald Trump has been accused several times as sexist, with many interviews and statements of him, which include embaracing words and offensive comments about women. These are the reasons behind why women supported Clinton over Trump by 54% to 42%. Hillary Clinton's concession speech made a huge impact and especially with the part, in which referred to young women: “and to all the little girls who are watching this, never doubt that you are valuable and powerful and deserving of every chance and opportunity in the world to pursue and achieve your own dreams.” On January 21, 2017 over 5 million of women in 20 countries over the world and over 1 million in Washington, D.C., came to march, speak and make women’s voices heard. Known as Women’s March was a historic, better a ‘herstoric’, and empowering day for everyone, as in the end of the day it wasn’t only about women but about human rights. Many celebrities and influential people from all the industries, such as Madonna, Blake Lively, Alicia Keys and many others took part to this humanity test of how people

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can become one and raise their voice against a common cause. But that is not something new as recent years revolutions once grew out of antiestablishment movements and through that a new epoch has begun, which is called Pride & Politics and is going to be even more bigger in the future, as today’s Generation Z and Millennials imagine and work towards bettering the world – 60% of Generation Z and 39% of Millennials wanting to gave an impact on the world. According to the Pew Research Center, "about six in 10 Americans (61%) say more changes are needed to achieve racial equality; 30% say the country has already made enough changes", and by 2043, whites will be the minority as US Census Bureau has predicted. In the US, awareness of gender equality cases is increasingly up trending across all industries. The fashion industry has been a champion of LGBTQIA rights for decades, but now younger generations are putting their money where their beliefs are – supporting and promoting brands with shared values. We are in a new era of empowered consumers, as previous generations faced stricter consequences for political attire, the majority of Gen Z and younger Millennials are living in a more liberal, new acceptance and progressive society. It’s a massive past, present and future consumer trend and brands will need to ask themselves: what do we stand for?

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1.2 FASHION POLITICAL STATEMENTS

“Fashion should be about challenging the status quo” as Dilys Williams, director of sustainable fashion, said. Fashion industry has made a lot of political statements during the years, through runways and campaigns, from Chanel Spring Summer 2014 runway, where Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel, ended his catwalk show in Paris with a recreation of a feminist protest, with messages such as ‘History is her story’, ‘Be your own stylist’, ‘ and ‘Women’s rights are more than alright’. He has made feminism fashionable. Calvin Klein's invitation for the show A/W17,

were a white bandana with the message "Unity, inclusion, hope and acceptance: join us at Calvin Klein in wearing the white bandana #TIEDTOGETHER”. The campaign (called #tiedtogether) has been started by the Business of Fashion as a reaction to the current climate of hate that seems to be dominating world politics right now. Wearing a white bandana is an outward sign that we are all connected, however much those in power want to separate us through our differences. But the whole Fashion Month for A/W17 to New York, London, Milan and Paris. Brands such as Dior, Public School, Pradal Gurung, Creatures of Comfort and many others raise their voices about the current global political scene with statements of unity and empowerment on t-shirts during their catwalks. Acne Studios brand though made a big difference as its newly released campaign for Spring/ Summer 2017 is a response to Trump’s #travelban. Instead of models Jonny Johansson, brand’s creative director, shoot portraits of artists, writers and other creative of Iranian, Iraq and Kuwaiti origin, and as he said “this collection is about openness, and looking out into the world”. Human identity is becoming increasingly contradictory, while people nowadays are more socio-politically flexible; they are growing more defined by their personal data and social media accounts. Revolution of technology and social media power have forever changed the way we see ourselves in the world, creating an inseparable link between data and identity.

CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 IDENTITY CRISIS

Through all the above we can say that we are officially in an “Identity Crisis” era. As traditional identifiers like race, gender and religion are consciously transform, what define us in the end? In a digital and globalized world, people can change their identities to fit to their lifestyles and their data history becomes a digital ID card. The explosion of social media has reformed the way people think about themselves and the way they are living their lives, but mainly for Millennials and Generation Z-ers. 22% of the world’s population use Facebook, and 76% of those users logged in every day in 2016, over 400 million snaps are shared on Snapchat per day and almost 9000 photos are shared every second. 51% of Instagram users access the platform daily and 35% say they look at the platform several times per day. These affect the individual’s perception of their own life and history, resulting in the creation of an ‘exoself’ that exists beyond own inner identity. And is only growing as the amount of time people spend on social platforms is constantly increasing. Teens now spend up to 9 hours per day on social platforms, while 30% of all time spent online is now allocated to social media interaction. And the majority of that time is on mobile - 80% of social media time spent is facilitated by a mobile device. The average person will spend nearly 2 hours on social media everyday, which translates to a total of 5 years and 4 months spent over a lifetime. Even more, time spent on social is only expected to increase as platforms develop, their tools and options – live-streaming, 360 videos - to further engage their audience.

The "Actor" Effect When individuals are in public, where they are trying to impart a specific impression among an audience, we can think of this as “front stage,” similar to an actor on stage presenting a performance. This is in contrast to the “back stage” – a place

t a h W s e n i f e d us?

where performers can relax and step out of character, according to Erving Goffman, writer of The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life.

In conclusion as life expectancies rise, multiple generations are living in a blurring fixed categories environment and redefining what it means to be young or old, so racial identity seems to be the new frontier for flexible identities.

2.1.1 THE GENDERLESS ERA "Gen-Z and Millennials are less concerned about content being gender specific, they want content that resonates with the personality. They are growing up in a world where stores no longer assign gender to toys and where they are free to express themselves how they want without conforming to stereotypes," as Stephen Mai, Head of Marketing and Design, The Lab Bible said. There is never been a better time to be yourself. More Millennials are identifying as LGBTQIA than any previous generation. A recent survey shows that 7% of 18-35 year old identify as LGBTQIA, compared to 3,5% of over 35-year old adults. As noted in the WGSN’s Genderful report, "as society dismantles gender stereotypes, 'genderless' is rebranded to 'genderful' – a positive identity that is unique to each person, constantly evolving and inclusive of all forms of self-expression." Generation Z is creating a culture of openness without discrimination, and fewer young people are identifying themselves based on their gender. Pop culture highlights gender-neutral and gender-fluid people on reality TV programs. The term “transgender” is used a lot today. Genderless is more mainstream than ever with many celebrities support this movement such as actress Ruby Rose and Miley Cyrus. Generation Z is leading a new acceptance wave as it concerns gender rules. According to a recent survey 60% of young people think that gender lines have been blurred and more than 66% believe that gender does not define a person the way it once did. “What we're seeing now is that people's sense of gender identity is not the same as their biological sex. People want to feel free and open to have whatever mix of masculinity and femininity seems right for them," says Áine Duggan, president of Regender, an organization that works to end gender inequality in the US.

National Geographic created a big buzz around this topic on the special issue for January 2017, which is called “Gender Revolution”. It putted on its cover a nine year-old transgender girl, “with the hope that the girl’s pride and confidence can act as a message of hope for a community who have, far too long, been misunderstood and marginalized, “ Robin Hammond, photographer for this issue said. He wanted to change people’s minds and “move forward as a society.”

2.1.1 THE GENDERLESS ERA As gender roles become more flexible and amorphous, a new generation of forward looking men is on the rise. The stereotypical vision of the breadwinning man no longer applies and the male identity is more diverse. Feminism reached a new peak level in 2016 and will continue to grow in 2017, but what is the role of men now? Jack Myers, author of The Future of Men says, “the future of men is women. I believe women and the women’s movement can be at the center of a new narrative and national conversation focused on developing positive male role models for future generations. Focusing on better men, dads, husbands, boyfriends and sons does not come at the expense of the rightful attention to women’s rights and equality.” Furthermore there is an emerging trend of male-friendly beauty. James Charles became the first male cover star for female – oriented magazine Covergirl in October 2016. Now, Maybelline has followed suit by signing on another one of the wildly popular "beauty boys" of the vlogger world, in order to star in Maybelline's "That Boss Life" campaign promoting Big Shot Mascara.

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2.1.1.1 'ME' GENDER FASHION CAMPAIGNS Gender fluidity and gender-neutral are the terms, which increasingly argued in the fashion world. Brands such as Vuitton, Gucci or Vetements have recognized the generation shift towards traditional stereotypes of sexes. This trend is so emerging that even high street is getting into that. Case in point – Zara has recently introduced its ‘Ungendered’ collection under its Trafaluc

pop up department that aims to create a "genderless shopping experience" within the London department store. "There’s been a big change in what men and women are

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line and back in 2015 Selfridges launched the Agender, a

wearing," Faye Toogood, designer of the retail space, says. "More and more, the boundary is blurred. It’s definitely reflected socially and politically. When I was designing [Agender], I was certainly aware that the issue goes slightly deeper than whether men and women will just shop in the same space. I think we realise now that gender is not binary, we are all individuals, and essentially gender is a fluid thing." In addition if we want to think widly about

important. Ruby Rose model, DJ and TV persona destroyed gender roles in a short film, which was written and produced by herself, called ‘Break Free’ with over 24

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the diverse expressions, colour is one thing that is

million views on YouTube. For 2016 there was a big campaign trend around gender neutrality. Louis Vuitton broke down gender rules by casting Jaden Smith in its S/S 16 womenswear campaign and the brand, with this revolutionary casting, wants to engage with a younger audience. Furthermore, Acne Studios when its designer Jonny Johansson used his 11 year-old son Frasse for the

clothes. “I’ve seen this new generation’s attitude to fashion where the cut, the shape and character of the garment is the crucial thing, rather then seeking approval form society or to follow set norms,” as Johansson told to Dazed.

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brand’s A/W 15/16 campaign, in which he wears women’s

2.1.2 BEAUTY REBELLION Generation Z is leading the new acceptance movement, embracing flaws, imperfections and inner strengths. The message is to be yourself and they reject the social media obsessed, highly edited life. Also many beauty brands with young audience, are pushing them to embrace natural beauty, at a time when Instagram’s extreme contouring and eyebrows are on the top of watchlists. The fashion and beauty industries used to rely on slim, beautiful models to represent perfection. However, if we’ve seen anything over the past year, it is that the industry is changing its ‘face’. We all have unique perspectives on what ‘perfect’ means, and it isn’t easy to match someone else’s idea of perfection, which is why we are drawing attention to this fact Perfection is an idea. One of latest empowering campaigns was Reebok’s #PerfectNever. May supermodel Gigi Hadid was the face of the campaign, but the campaign’s goal is to make women feel free, brave and confident about their inner strengths, by showing that ‘perfect’ woman like Gigi Hadid might not be so perfect after all.

But how Millennials are changing the beauty scene? As Emily Weiss, founder of makeup brand Glosser, said in a blog post: “I believe we’re entering a time when women are open to authenticity-who they are, and want to be, in real life- like never before. Now more than ever, people are striving to develop their own unique identities, go on their own journey, and talk about it.”

CHAPTER 3 RESEARCH

3.1 CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION/CASE STUDIES: MODELS Winnie Harlow

She is a model of the moment, since Tyra Banks discovered her on Instagram. America’s Next Top Model, introduced the world to the girl with vitiligo (long term skin condition) from the Toronto and on which she won the highest number of public votes. In addition, she gave a speech in 2014 at TEDxTalk, “My Story Is Painted on My Body,” with over 500,000 views. She has been the face of a campaign for numerous brands such as Diesel, Desigual, Dsquared2, Sprite and Swarovski. “I feel like I am an inspiration. That’s the word I prefer. I don’t believe that I have to be a role model, someone to be emulated,” Winnie said in her ELLE Canada interview. She has walked in many runways, such as Marc Jacobs, R13, Julien Macdonald and others, with many magazine’s covers in her portofolio like ELLE Canada, L’Officiel Italia and Marie Claire, Winnie is the definition behind the ‘changing the fashion’ meaning.

Born with albinism condition, Ross survived violent and bulling attacks while growing up in the Bronx. After six years climbing

Shaun Ross

the ranks of high-fashion modeling, the 22 year-old has earned a approval from the likes of Tyra Banks, Lana Del Rey, and

Beyonce . “To me, beauty is a preference. Being pretty does hurt because you have to go through the judgment of what other people think pretty is. There are a lot of people in this world who think people with albinism are extremely beautiful,” Ross says in OUT magazine. With editorials with no ending since 2008, magazine’s covers for Boycott and Papercut, Ross reputation and demand are on the rise, as he has much more things to say to the world, and according to him “if you take the things people say, put them in slow motion, and really listen to them, half the time they’re speaking from their own fears and insecurities. They don’t know better.”

3.1 CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION/CASE STUDIES: MODELS Lauren Wasser

She was using a super plus tampon when she developed toxic shock syndrome (TSS) in 2012. Her infection turned into gangrene, and she had to have her right leg and the toes and heel of her left foot amputated. “I never thought I would be accepted back into the industry,” 28 year-old model said but now she stars in Kenneth Cole's latest fashion campaign for Fall 2016, which is notifying people who've exceeded challenges to become role models. She is building a successful career in the fashion industry — which she uses to educate people about Toxic Shock Syndrome. She is staring in The Hundreds’ first installment and she was a part of Chromat’s runway in New York Fashion Week for A/W 16/17, “I have a mission on this earth. I'm lucky to be able to work in this industry where I can build an audience to even raise awareness,” she concludes to her interview for Daily Mail.

Ashley Graham She gained worldwide fame when she modeled lingerie for Lane Bryant, a plus size clothing store, and the term that has become synonymous with her, and other models who are more than a size 12 is ‘plus-size’. She has been on the covers of Vogue and Sport Illustrator creating a good reaction. As she mentioned in British Vogue, “when we’re supposed to be talking about diversity for women, it feels so divisive and purpose-defeating, giving us yet another label.” Ashley is nothing but an example to millions of women around the world, who feel abandoned when it comes to finding fashion to fit.

3.2 CHANGING THE FACE OF FASHION/CASE STUDIES: FASHION CAMPAIGNS Diesel is the leader of diversity movement in campaigns

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and it is working into it from Fall 2010 and the ad campaign called ‘Be Stupid’, which won a top award at the Cannes advertising festival, to the unconventional A/W 13/14 #DIESELREBBOOT campaign with Tumblr stars as ‘real people’ models. "I wanted to find people who reflected the diversity of the creative community today and not just the typical model. I wanted the campaign to showcase a variety of characters, people who are beautiful in their own unique way," Diesel's new creative director Nicola Formichetti explained. For S/S 15 Diesel included Winnie Harlow to its ad campaign and now Diesel has launched the ad campaign "Make Love Not

Walls" as a response to US President Trump's plan to build a wall separating Mexico from the United States.Marc Jacobs S/S16 campaign is one more example of “breaking stereotypes” campaigns. He celebrates the beauty and spirit of equality, diversity and inclusiveness. Marc Jacobs S/S16 campaign looks beyond age, size, sex, sexuality and gender, making it the most inclusive yet in fashion’s diversity frontier. Christian Louboutin, maker of some of the globe’s most-coveted, high-end footwear, has been challenging the idea behind the ‘nude’ color, which describes the ‘flesh-coloured’ and has been an existing issue within the fashion industry. The company launched the ‘Nude For All’ collection with a palette of seven shades of ‘nude’ to appeal every woman's skin colour. The brand’s ad campaign shows off the new range, but as importantly, the move shows why diversity behind the scenes matters and a number of Louboutin’s followers on social media expressed gratitude for the inclusive approach. Last but not least is when Nike partners with FKA Twigs singer and artist as creative director for the new Zonal Strength Tights campaign and as a result Nike launched the “Do You Believe In More?” campaign for Spring 2017, which is about sport and movement as an active channel of self expression. “I saw it as an opportunity to let young people know they have the power to become the best versions of themselves,” according to FKA TWIGS, and the title of the campaign “refers to a girl who grew up looking different from everybody else around me, who wanted to do things no one else wanted to do in a small town, who didn't grow up with lots of money, but just had so much determination and hope inside herself. I wanted to do more with my life. I wanted to do everything.”

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3.3 REPORTS 3.3.1 DR. BEN BARRY'S RESEARCH PAGE 02

In 2012, when Dr. Ben Barry first explained his topic, he said “I’m studying models in advertising - the women in the advertisements - and particularly in fashion advertisements,” and his study has to do with how size, age and race influence purchase decisions. According to Dr. Barry, models are the communication tool that brands use with their consumers, it’s not only about the fitting but also expressing a brand’s identity. In the business community, marketers hire models, with more typical size 2, because they want to create and sell an image that most of women will inspire from but in the same time is an unfulfilled dream. Naomi Mandel in her work on models and self-esteem she mentioned “it’s better to use extremely thin models because that’s what makes women feel bad about themselves and want to buy the products.” There are also some economic issues behind that, as the sample size, which is in size 2 and global campaigns, in which they have to use a worldwide ‘acceptance’ model face. “Even for those creatives who want to cast diverse models, budgets only enable the execution of one global campaign - and white models, supposedly proven to attract consumers, reduce risk,” explained by Dr. Ben Barry. Since the publication of Naomi Wolf’s book The Beauty Myth, the size issue has become mainstream and many governments like Italy, France and Canada have took measures in order to protect the health of their citizens, however in fashion, diversity will be a key point when it will become a million dollar strategy. Dr. Ben Barry found with his research that “Canadian and American women increased purchase intentions for fashion products advertised by models who reflected their own demographics: age, size and—for non-Caucasians—race.”

SIZE

200%

60%

women increased

women decreased

their purchase intentions

their purchase intentions when

when the ad models were

women saw models who didn’t

their size

reflect their size

SUBGROUP SIZE 6

SUBGROUP AGE 35+

300%

76%

200%

women increased

women decreased

women increased

when they saw a curvier model

their purchase intentions when

when they saw an older model

women saw models who didn’t reflect their size

BLACK CONSUMERS

AGE

175%

64%

consumers increased

consumers decreased

when they saw models who

their purchase intentions when the

reflected their age

models didn't reflect their age

1.5times more likely black consumers to purchase a product advertised by a black model

3.3.2 FASHION ADS REPORTS RACE From Spring 2015 until Fall 2016 many changes have been made according to race, size, age and transgender in fashion ad campaigns. First we are going to analyze the race statistics through seasons as it shown in fashion print campaigns. In Spring 2015 and Fall 2015, there is a roughly same calculation of results. In Fall 2015, among 460 printed ads 84.7% was white models, in Spring 2016, and with 236 print ads being examined, there is a notable decreased in white models with 78.2%, the decrease will continue in Fall 2016 with 76.71% white models among 190 fashion ads. Black models on the other hand had started to conclude in printed ads with the percent of 4.4% in Fall 2015, but that changed in Spring 2016 when the black models were doubled with 8.29%, and that increase continued in Fall 2016 with 11.19%. In the case of Asian models the fluctuation of statistics is a little different, in Fall 2015 we saw 6.2% of that race in the fashion ads, but in the next season of Spring 2016 there was a decreace with only a 4.03% appearance of them, however in Fall 2016 there was a slightly increase as there was 5.94%. In addition, that season several luxury labels, like Chanel Eyewear, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Loewe, Karl Lagerfeld, chose models of colour to star in their campaigns and that is because of the fact that the fastest growing luxury markets in the world are the Middle East and Africa.

90%

60%

offering plus-size lines, like Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren, as well as Forever 21 and H&M, did not include any plus-size models to

40%

%17.67

60%

80%

%2.87

In Fall 2015 plus-size models were few, as between the 707 model appearances, plus-size women were only 11 times, which is, 1.5%. There was an increase from Spring 2015 when they were only 1%. Strangely, the brands that

80%

%7.48

PLUS SIZE

40%

represent that demographic part. Spring 2016 was the season of the first plussize cover model in a swimsuit in Sports Illustrated, Ashley Graham, as in

market plus-size brands.

Fall15

Spring16

A SI A N

B LA C K

W H IT E

A SI A N

0% B LA C K

W H IT E

A SI A N

B LA C K

W H IT E

with the previous season, 12 out of the 14 total appearances, it was mass-

%49.5

plus-size women were only cast 14 times, which means 3.2% and in comparison

20%

%30.4

%4.4

and plus-size labels. The exceptions were American Eagle Outfitters, Marc Jacobs, Jean Paul Gaultier. 438 model appearances were for Fall 2016, and

%2.6

20%

campaigns. For Spring 2016 among the 440 model appearances, plus-size women were only 7, 1.6% and with all but 2 of them were cast for mass-market

%91.11

30%

%92.8

general women over size 12 were clearly absent from most spring ad

Fall16

AGE 50+ Fall 2015, Baby Boomers turned up 22 times in ad campaigns and that translates to 3.1%, with about half of the them being well-known, like actresses and designers for Dolce & Gabbana and Givenchy. However, Spring 2016 was a big disappointment as there was a decrease in the numbers with only 9 women age 50, in other words only 2% included in campaigns this season, with the majority were in the American designer Marc Jacobs remarkably diverse Spring 2016. Perhaps the most promising development of the Fall 2016 ad season was that 18 older models, appeared in them, which is 4.1% of all castings and it is worth noting that, of the 18 appearances, 4 were older models of colour. Labels are increasingly taking notice of A.T. Kearney’s research, which findings showed that people over 60 are the fastest growing group of consumers in the world and account for 60% of all consumer spending. By 2047, there will be 2 billion mature consumers worldwide.

TRANSGENDER In Fall 2015 the transgender models were only 0.4% maybe they are few, but it’s a progress since Spring 2015 when there was not only one transgender models. Transgender models were practically absent from Spring 2016 ad campaigns with only 0.2%. Marc Jacobs won the season slightly by featuring Lana Wachowski among other transgender persons in his campaign. And that was paradox if you think how much media attention world has received in 2016 with Caitlyn Jenner apocalypse, Oscar-nominated transgender musician Antony Hegarty and movies as The Danish Girl and Tangerine. In general transgender models are traditionally the least represented group in fashion ad campaigns and that is due to the fact that they are a smaller sector of the general population than all the other groups and therefore a smaller ratio of transgender models into models world is somewhat expected. However, transgender models were completely absent from the Fall 2016 campaigns.

3.3.3 FASHION RUNWAYS REPORTS Ahead of the Spring 2017 shows, The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) — the veritable governing body of fashion — issued a set of “racial diversity pointers” and that was an attempt to “encourage the industry to be inclusive of racial diversity when preparing casting of models for their company needs.” The more important is that the runways act as platforms for societal change. As model Ebonee Davis puts it “fashion makes people’s minds up about what is beautiful and acceptable.”

90%

RACE

For the Spring 2017, there was 299 shows and 8,832 model

60%

83%

appearances from New York, London, Paris and Milan fashion

80%

77.6%

weeks. At Spring 2017 runways, 74.6% of the models was

75.3%

74.65%

white, and it is slightly better than the 75.3% of Fall 2016 and 30% the 77.6% of Spring 2016. However, it is a big difference in comparison with 83% of Spring 2015. According to recent

history Spring 2017 was the first season with over 25% of the

Spring15

Fall15

Spring16

Fall16

Spring17

models were women of colour.

PLUS SIZE

30 20

0,54%

2973 models in NYFW

Body diversity continues to follow racial diversity. Between 2,973 model appearances in New York, there were only 16 plus size models

0,18% New York

appearance, which means only 0.54%. If you consider all of Fashion Month that number shrinks to

All

0.18%, but in Europe no plus size model made impression on the runway.

TRANSGENDER

0,11%

For Spring 2017, transgender models were 0.11% of all runway castings, with 8 of them were in new York and 4

of those 8 at Chromat's runway. That’s a slight increase

0,08%

from Fall 2016 season, when only 8 transgender models appeared and back in Spring 2016 with only

0,05%

5. However, the transgender group was the least represented in the runways of Spring 2017.

0,08% of them in NYFW

Spring16

Fall16

Spring17

AGE 50+

Women age 50 and above turned up on more runways at

0,13%

0,11% 5

0,05%

0,08% of them in NYFW

0,04% of them in NYFW

Spring16

Spring 2017 than in any other season before. In the age category, New York was the leader, hosting 8 of the 13 total appearances. A small increase took place since Fall 2016, which saw 11 aged model castings. However, it’s a big increase from Spring 2016, with only 5 models over age 50 walked and 4 of them appeared in New York.

Fall16

Spring17

cities, New York had the highest diversity rating by far

%4.42

NEW YORK

stand in the important fact that there was a decrease

21%

of the percentage of models of color from Fall 2016,

5% . 23

models of color. In Milan, which always is in the end of the line, only 20.9% models of color walked the runways.

LONDON

.91 9 %

Still, it is crucial to mention that Milan and Paris are making and improvement since Fall 2015. In the same path is London too, which was less diverse for the Fall

number of nonwhite model castings for Spring 2017,

18%

.9% 20

23%

21%

15%

which was the most momentous increase of any city.

22% London’s move toward inclusion on the runways is

9% . 20

significantly, as it concerns the rise in racially motivated crimes, which are taking place in London following Great

61llaF

.91 7 %

Britain’s recent decision to leave the European Union.

15 .7%

MILAN

%8.51

season. In addition we saw a 3.6% increase in the

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2016 season with 19.9% models of color than any other

17 .2%

18%

2% 17.

23%

21% 15% 22%

PARIS

.12 9 %

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.1% 4 2

15 .6%

23%

%3.71

24.1% models of color, following by London with 23.5%

15% 22%

51llaF

which was 31.9%. Paris came in a distant second with

19%

.4% 28

23%

with hitting 30.3% models of color, however we have to

20 .9%

%02

most diverse in recent history. Between the four fashion

% .3 0 3 51gnirpS

After all, Fashion Month Spring 2017 runways were the

15%

22%

.13 9 %

3.3.4 DIVERSITY REPORTS

Fashion Runways Diversity Reports in New York, London, Milan & Paris

19% 21%

18%

CHAPTER 4 CONCLUSION Given the data collected in this study, it can be concluded that with the political and social scene, which is taking place in recent years people than ever before have the need to express themselves about who they really are. We are in the era of changing, embracement and celebrating individuality, with the social media giving the power of reaction and standing out. Global online platforms are offering a space for young people mainly to share their opinions, stories, thoughts and also can inspire society. Fashion is one of the most influential factors and as we saw above this massive industry is trying to march, with its own way with campaigns and runways every season. This study reveals how fashion has changed its standards though the seasons, and as a result it is obvious that is responding to the consumer’s shifts and is risking -slowly- to change. Fashion can speak without words, what it needs is strong visuals. It is time for the designers to recreate the face of fashion and redefine the meaning of ‘beauty’ after all this years. Break the traditional stereotypes and help people express themselves.

4.1 FURTHER RESEARCH 4.1.1 TATTOOS & IDENTITY annahir

Tattoos nowadays are a huge mainstream phenomenon on the rise. Perhaps is the greatest fashion shift of generation, and tattoos are now as desired and admired as Celine bag or a Prada shoe. There is almost no stereotype anymore and now

tattoos have a massive appearance in social media and as a form of art they are gaining much more value. 13% of British

mahkceb divad

with celebrities have tattoos, they are visible to people. Also

people and 36% of Americans among the age of 18-25 have at least one tattoo. Furthermore, if we see the whole population of the 2 countries, 1/5 of UK and 14% of American population

“you used to get tattooed to be on the outside, and now you get tattooed to be in the inside.” These are some clues of the

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have some ink in their skin. As Michelle Myles, tattoo artist said

power of the ink in the recent communities.

4.1.1 TATTOOS & IDENTITY However, the most interesting part of tattoos is their connection with people’s identity. Marketing experts know that consumers use products to help construct personal identity. But what about tattoos? According to a recent research, they don’t only just express identity: They help define it. In general we define who we are by the elements that stick with us like people, stories, places, memories, and that is what sociologists call “personal myth.” Each tattoo can be viewed as a symbol of an episode or scene in the narrative of one’s life. They help add a dash of specificity by signaling individuality in the same way as a birthmark or scar might.

4.1.2 TATTOOS IN FASHION But which are the position of tattoos inside fashion? As Marc Jacobs said in his interview about his tattoos in New York magazine, “they just are what they are: another piece of fashion.” Tattoos are getting more a more space into fashion industry and as both they are forms of arts they can benefit from each other and inspire or reach new consumers. Marie Claire’s style editor Cassie Steer has mentioned, “there is a trend of booking models based on their individuality now. Tattoos aren’t being covered up, they are celebrated.” Is a general opinion of recent days that there is something wonderful about seeing a tattoo on a model on a runway – I am here, I am different, I have an opinion. Also we have seen many brands such as Dsquared2, Diesel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Victoria’s Secret and Valentino embrace them in their campaigns and runways. Marc Jacobs made a collaboration with Scott Campbell, tattoo artist, for his Louis Vuitton collection S/S11 So in conclusion the study suggests a further investigation on how this trend will expand inside this industry and in which way will benefit the new generations?

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