gff MAGAZINE
LENA KWAK THE SECRET INGREDIENT BEHIND THOMAS KELLER’S GF FLOUR
gluten-free forever GF F MAG.CO M
$ 1 5.0 0 U S
I S SU E NO. 1 / FAL L 2 0 1 4
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gff MAGAZINE
FOUNDERS Editor: Erika Lenkert Photographer: Maren Caruso Designer: Catherine Jacobes CREATIVE ORACLE Victoria Granof
CONTRIBUTORS Shauna Ahern Aimee Lee Ball Jeff Burkhart John Clark Bonnie Cohen Amy Copperman Meesha Halm Marcia Gagliardi Emily Garland Jeffrey Larsen Leigh Noe Sherry Olsen Gayle Pirie Nissa Quanstrom Jacky Recchiuti Michael Recchiuti Annie Stoll Craig Stoll Viva Scott Warner Laura Werlin BENEFACTORS See the inside front and back covers
HEROES Brooke Chapman Correll Hooman Khalili Lou Lesko Gina Pell Colie Wertz Faith Winthrop RECIPE TESTERS Lara Klemens Mandy F. Morris Phillip Weingarten COPY EDITOR Eve Lynch PROOFREADER Susan Charles Bush STUDIO MANAGER Elena Graham RETOUCHER Ian Stout
INTERNS Carmen Ladipo Erin Ng Madeline Wheeler To subscribe, visit gffmag.com. For distribution, advertising, and general inquires, please email info@gffmag.com. Copyright ©2014 GFF. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form for any purpose without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law.
The information offered in GFF is to be used at your own discretion. GFF cannot guarantee that any food will be safe with respect to any reader’s particular allergies or other medical conditions. It is specifically the reader’s responsibility to confirm any recipe’s or product’s suitability for his or her own healthful use. If you have specific medical concerns, please consult with your doctor or with a nutritionist prior to using the recipes or products featured in this magazine.
Printed in Canada
EDIBLE ART
Recchiuti Confections Pâté de Fruits by Maren Caruso
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CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS
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EDIBLE ART A sweet still life by our photographer Maren Caruso
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EDITOR’S LETTER Erika Lenkert on what we’re all about
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CONTRIBUTORS Just a few of the talents in this issue
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VFF (Viva’s Favorite Foods) Our junior food critic’s preferred recipes
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DESTINATION SAN FRANCISCO How to live it up like a food-loving local in the City by the Bay By Marcia Gagliardi, Erika Lenkert, Maren Caruso, and Catherine Jacobes
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WHERE IT’S @ All the news that’s fit to RT, , and #
SKILL IT Everything you need to know to make the ultimate GF piecrust By Jeffrey Larsen
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FEATURES
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OH NIKI, YOU’RE SO FINE! Our culinary muse Niki Ford and her unbelievably good pasta dishes By Erika Lenkert
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SPREAD THE LOVE Cheese expert Laura Werlin’s tips for off-thehook cheese plates
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SOURDOUGH’S RISING STAR Baker Sadie Scheffer and her obsession-worthy allergen-free bread
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GOOD STUFF Gear we covet for the home, body, and mouth Curated by Bonnie Cohen
GAME ON! A playful reprieve for the bus, bath, or bedside table
GUT INSTINCTS Best-selling journalist Aimee Lee Ball on the state of GF affairs
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RECIPE INDEX The who, what, and where on this issue’s tasty vittles
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GFF FAVES Our recs for the best grocery store crackers By Amy Copperman
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WEEKNIGHT WARRIORS Five recipes that bring new (and tastier!) meaning to the workday “grind”
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CHEF’S TABLE A holiday feast worth recreating, by the culinary greats behind San Francisco’s Delfina, Foreign Cinema, and Recchiuti Confections
HAPPY ENDING Butterscotch pudding so good you’ll want to lick the glass clean By Scott Warner
PAELLA: THE INSTANT PARTY! The one-dish extravaganza done right
WHY DRINKING SPANISH IS FLY Amy Copperman's primer to grabbing a good bottle of wine tonight
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LENA KWAK’S FLOUR POWER The scoop on famed chef Thomas Keller’s partner in Cup4Cup GF flour
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HEAD TRIP Victoria Granof’s mindblowing ways to roast whole cauliflower
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3 CHEERS FOR PARTY SEASON! Easy cocktail recipes that raise the bar and the glass By Jeff Burkhart
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GRATE EXPECTATIONS Emily Garland's vibrant latkes for breakfast, holidays, and cocktail parties
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REDISCOVERING THE JOY OF COOKING Gluten-Free Girl Shauna Ahern on cooking and celiac disease
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GIFTS OF GOOD TASTE Three tasty treats to make, give, and gobble up this season
EDITOR'S LETTER
A
S A FOOD AND TRAVEL WRITER and editor with
twenty years of professional cooking and eating under my apron, I’ve never been one to lower my standards of dining excellence. Nothing changed when I went gluten-free in 2001 due to health issues. The only things I gave up were physical discomfort, exhaustion, some unwanted pounds, and access to processed foods that weren’t good for me anyway. I looked better, felt better, and ate better, with plenty of indulgence along the way (because I am definitely that kind of girl). Over the years, as the popularity of the GF lifestyle grew, I noticed a perceived disconnect between gluten-avoidance and deliciousness. I also recognized a growing need for a magazine that showcases just how easy it is to live a glutenfree lifestyle, full of world-class food and indulgent travel experiences. GFF is my response to that need. A quarterly magazine for food lovers, it celebrates uncompromisingly Good Food (Forever), drinks, and destinations, and the joy of creating and sharing them with others. And, oh yes: it’s Gluten-Free (Forever), too, although you’ll never taste the difference. Creating this magazine in four months with a founding team of three was an experience, to say the least. There aren’t
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enough words to thank my cofounders, photographer Maren Caruso and designer Catherine Jacobes, for fearlessly embarking on this wild journey with me and helping to make every story and recipe look ridiculously gorgeous. Ditto food stylist and culinary confidante Victoria Granof, who generously anted up her creative genius. These pages are also filled with the talents of some of the nation’s top writers, chefs, and stylists (page 2), and even the two cents of my nine-year-old daughter, Viva (our junior food editor, page 69). Still, we couldn’t have done any of it without the 822 Kickstarter contributors who funded this magazine and got the word out; they’re all elegantly honored by Bay Area artist Sherry Olsen on this issue’s inside front and back covers. For this inaugural issue, we stayed close to our San Francisco home and its overabundant bounty (page 72). The City is where Sadie Scheffer makes GF sourdough so good, it’s the first I’ve coveted in fourteen years (page 30). It’s also where James Beard Award–winning chef Craig Stoll gathered a group of food luminaries and shared recipes that deserve to be on your dinner table (page 54). In nearby Napa, our cover girl Lena Kwak, in partnership with famed chef Thomas Keller, is breaking new ground with her GF flour (page 46). On the other side of the Mayacamas Mountains, in Sonoma, Chez Panisse alum Niki Ford makes pasta recipes so purely spectacular, they have become my obsession (page 12). And don’t get me started on the last page’s Top Shelf Butterscotch Pudding (page 96). Just trust me and make it. I promise we’ll take you to other tasty parts of the country and world in our next issue and beyond. We’ll also give you plenty of opportunities to offer feedback and make GFF even more of the magazine you want to read and cook from. Meanwhile, we may look polished but we remain a tiny group of creatives who work full time elsewhere, are raising kids, and are spending our free time creating GFF out of sheer passion and a desire to infuse more pleasure into your life. We’d be honored and grateful if you helped spread the word, so we can focus even more on bringing you a taste of the good life—not to mention get some sleep. Thank you so much for checking us out. I hope this issue brings you great pleasure and inspiration during the upcoming holiday season and motivates you to order a subscription for yourself or a BFF (gffmag.com), or to grab our next issue in January. Warmly,
Erika Lenkert
The Making of a Magazine
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BE H I ND T H E SC EN E S P HOTO S BY E R I N NG A N D MA R E N CA R U SO
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1. Catherine Jacobes and Maren Caruso. 2. Elena Graham and Emily Garland. 3. Niki Ford. 4. Nissa Quanstrom. 5. Craig Stoll and Maren. 6. Jacky Recchiuti. 7. Maren and Erika Lenkert. 8. Carmen Ladipo. 9. Erika. 10. Leigh Noe. 11. GFF pages. 12. Lena Kwak. 11
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OH NIKI YOU’RE SO FINE! A tip from Ruth Reichl’s ex-assistant leads us on a road trip to California’s Sonoma wine country, to our culinary muse NIKI FORD, and to some of the best pasta recipes we’ve tried. By Erika Lenkert
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FO O D ST YLI N G BY VI CTO RI A GRA N OF / P RO P ST YLI N G BY LEI GH N O E
M
AGICAL THINGS HAPPEN
when you leave yourself open to opportunity. While I was conceptualizing this magazine, Ruth Reichl introduced me to her impressive former assistant, Francesca Gilberti, whom she rightly described as “wonderful—and distressingly beautiful; she looks like a Botticelli Venus.” Over coffee, Francesca, who’d moved from New York to San Francisco and was working with a well-known culinary book agent, divulged that one of her clients, Niki Ford, was exploring whole-grain pastas in the rural Sonoma town of Healdsburg. Something told me I needed to seek her out. Boy, am I glad I listened. Less than five minutes after arriving at Niki’s cozy cottage, surrounded by a gated, perky flock of sheep, it was clear that she doesn’t just cook food. She studies it, nurtures it, and, through a genuine curiosity, love, knowledge, and respect for the process, ingredients, and traditions, makes it better than you can imagine. Much better. A self-professed food geek whose culinary ponderings and factoids bubble up faster than her sauce simmering on the stove, Niki spent six years in the kitchen of Berkeley’s legendary Chez Panisse and six months cooking for artists and scholars at the American Academy of Rome through the Rome Sustainable Food Project, which might explain why her wholesome recipes, featured here, taste like a combination of world-class restaurant food and the authentic dishes found in grandmothers’ kitchens along the Italian (and in one case Mexican) countryside. We’re so enamored of Niki, we plan to showcase her and her food on a regular basis. Make just one of her recipes and you’ll understand why. They’re so astoundingly good and doable, they’ll change the way you think about cooking and make you want to spend more time in the kitchen—and share the results. Besides, it’s not often you meet a woman who proactively offers up easy, revolutionizing tricks for improving gluten-free dry pasta, leads you on a pasture adventure complete with a narrowly missed attack from a feisty ram, and inspires a group herkie. That’s our kind of chef.
Above: Niki’s tranquil Healdsburg dining room. Left: Brown Rice Spaghetti with Bitter Greens and Pancetta. Bottom: Frisky sheep surrounding Niki’s cottage.
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BROWN RICE SPAGHETTI WITH BITTER GREENS AND PANCETTA page 16
“My focus in these recipes was not to try to mimic wheat pasta but to use the flavor of each of the gluten-free pastas I selected as an integral component of the dish’s flavor profile. But you can use whatever pasta you have on hand and it will still be delicious.”
QUINOA MACARONI AND CHEESE WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CHARD
page 16 FALL 2014 | GFFMAG.COM
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QUINOA FIDEO 18
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FIDEO BREAKFAST CAKE
Quinoa Fideo
page 20
SERVES 6 TO 8 This beloved Mexican pasta dish, in which dried pasta is toasted to enhance its flavor and durability, takes inspiration from the “noodle paella” dishes of Spain, fideus and fideuà. Similar to making a risotto, the pasta is stirred constantly to encourage even cooking and discourage scorching as it simmers through several additions of hot broth. It also takes around the same amount of time to cook—about 25 minutes from when the pasta meets its first ladleful of broth. Though this dish is traditionally made with angel hair pasta, quinoa spaghetti goes above and beyond as a stand-in; the flavor of the toasted quinoa noodle perfectly complements the Mexican spices and the rich chile-tomato broth. Garnished with Cotija or goat's-milk feta cheese, green onion, a healthy squeeze of lime juice, and cilantro, it’s truly a party on a plate. 2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and deseeded 2 cups chopped Muir Glen Fire Roasted Tomatoes, and their juices 2 (8-ounce) boxes quinoa spaghetti (preferably Andean Dream) 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, finely diced 1 celery stalk, finely diced 4 cups good-quality chicken stock 1 clove garlic, minced
1⁄2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano 1 teaspoon ground cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon smoked paprika 1⁄4 teaspoon ground allspice 1 bay leaf
1⁄2 cup dry white wine Kosher salt 11⁄2 cups crumbled Cotija or goat’s-milk feta cheese, for garnish
1⁄2 bunch cilantro, stemmed and coarsely chopped, for garnish 1 bunch green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced, for garnish 3 limes, cut into wedges, for garnish
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the guajillo chiles in a small bowl with 1 cup boiling water and cover for 30 minutes to soften the chiles. Combine the chiles, their soaking water, and the fireroasted tomatoes with their juices in a blender and puree until smooth. Place the contents of one box of spaghetti on a rimmed baking sheet, and drizzle with 11⁄2 teaspoons of olive oil, tossing well to coat. Toast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring once after 5 minutes, until the pasta is several shades darker, but not deep brown. Repeat with the second box of spaghetti. When cool, break the pasta into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Reserve. In a heavy 5-quart saucepan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and celery, stirring briefly, and then lower the
heat to medium-low or low and cook the vegetables slowly, stirring occasionally, until translucent and softened, about 10 to 15 minutes. In a medium pot, combine the chiletomato mixture, the chicken stock, and 4 cups of water. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, then keep warm over a low heat. Add to the pan with the onion and celery the garlic, oregano, cumin, paprika, allspice, and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Stir in the quinoa spaghetti and cover with 6 cups of the hot chile-tomato broth. Add a few generous pinches of salt. Return to a boil over high heat and stir frequently, until most of the liquid is absorbed. continued
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GFF FAVES
CRACKERS To select the best nationally available gluten-free crackers, we gathered a group of eight mostly non-GF food lovers and pros to blind taste 38 different varieties. A novella’s worth of notes and many gallons of water later, we proudly present our picks for basic crackers worthy of a place in your cupboard. By Amy Copperman
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All They’re Cracked Up to Be 1. Mary’s Gone Crackers, Original Hearty, healthy, non-GMO, organic, and crunchy with big seed taste. $5 per box at marysgonecrackers.com
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2. Crunchmaster Baked Rice Crackers, White Cheddar Crisp and light with addictive cheddar popcorn properties. $5.79 for two boxes at crunchmaster.com
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3. Blue Diamond Almond Nut Thins, Hint of Sea Salt Easy low-sodium nibblers with light almond taste. $3.09 per box at amazon.com 4. Glutino Cheddar Crackers Less cheddar-y and more flaky, buttery, and Ritz-like. $4.19 per box at shop.glutino.com
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5. Glutino Original Table Crackers Our preferred Saltine substitute. $4.19 per box at shop.glutino.com 6. Crunchmaster Cheddar Cheezy Crisps The kids’ favorite; like Doritos, complete with finger-lickin’ cheese dust. $7.89 for two boxes at crunchmaster.com
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7. Wellaby’s Crackers, Classic Cheese Thin and crisp, with hints of Cheez-It and Pringles. $17.79 for six boxes at amazon.com
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8. Crunchmaster Multigrain Crisps, Sea Salt Light and crispy with slightly sweet brown rice and sesame flavors. $7.79 for two boxes at crunchmaster.com
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Even if you’ve tasted every cheese from Asiago to Zimbro, it’s easy to fall back on the same old selections for your party spreads. But cheese expert Laura Werlin helps you reinvent the wheel with these absurdly delicious ensembles. Whether you’re shopping the supermarket, splurging at a specialty shop, or seeking a surprising, seductive dessert, there’s a perfect combo for you here.
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Arrange everything shown here on a platter and you’ve got a party. Fresh goat cheese (aka chèvre) A fun, easy-to-cut shape, this smooth, crumbly goat’s-milk cheese is a tangy, cracker-friendly chameleon that works well with other flavors. Look for Laura Chenel Chèvre.
Olive tapenade Olives and goat cheese go together like peanut butter and jelly. Plus, tapenade is great with double- and triplecrème Brie.
Double- or triplecrème Brie Mouth-filling, seductive, rich, and buttery, this decadent cheese is a complementary contrast to the goat cheese’s refreshing, lighter taste. Look for Fromage d'Affinois, Saint André, or Marin French Cheese Triple Crème Brie.
Gorgonzola Creamy and very spreadable, this assertive blue cheese pairs exceptionally well with apricot preserves. Try them together for an unbeatable salty, sweet, tangy sensation. Look for BelGioioso Creamy Gorgonzola (or another Gorgonzola) or Castello Danish Blue.
Apricot preserves Unlike most jams and preserves, apricot jam is tart as well as sweet, making it a perfect foil for tangy goat cheese and a wonderful counter to the saltiness of the blue cheese.
Plain crackers The cheeses and accompaniments have enough flavor that a plain cracker works best here. Look for Glutino Original Bagel Chips, which work well and are sturdy enough to hold up under “spreader pressure.”
Unsalted, toasted pistachios The crunch of these nuts provides great textural contrast, and their sweet, savory, rich flavors match beautifully with the lemony, buttery, salty flavors of the cheeses.
ST YLI N G BY VI CTO R I A G RA NO F
Spread the Love
Supermarket Special
GLUTINO BAGEL CHIPS
TRIPLE-CRÈME BRIE
PISTACHIOS
OLIVE TAPENADE
APRICOT PRESERVES
FRESH GOAT CHEESE GORGONZOLA
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SOURDOUGH'S RISING STAR Meet Sadie Scheffer, a San Francisco–based baker with the quiet confidence of Mona Lisa and loaves of bread that’ll inspire you to shamelessly indulge again. STANDING BEHIND A TABLE at the Gluten and Allergen Free
Expo in San Francisco this winter, doling out loaves of freshly baked sourdough from her two-year-old baking company, Bread SRSLY, and surrounded by clamoring fans, Sadie Scheffer seems more like a celebrity chef than a twenty-fiveyear-old startup baker. But after crafting what is undoubtedly the best allergy-friendly sourdough bread in the Bay Area and beyond, her star status is warranted.
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Sadie’s bread does not taste like good gluten-free bread. It tastes like good bread. Moist and airy with a hard crust and trademark sourdough tang, it’s the kind of stuff that James Beard was talking about when he said, “Good bread is the most fundamentally satisfying of all foods; and good bread with fresh butter, the greatest of feasts.” While Bread SRSLY will elevate any sandwich, heaven can be found in a simply toasted and buttered slice.
SADIE SCHEFFER IN HER SAN FRANCISCO CO!OP COMMERCIAL KITCHEN
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RUNNING HEAD
Made using whole-grain, certified gluten-free flours and local and organic produce, it’s also egg-, soy-, nut-, sugar-, dairy-, tapioca-, garbanzo bean–, potato starch–, and baker’s yeast–free, making it a lifeline for pretty much any foodrestricted bread lover lamenting the loss of one of life’s most glorious eating pleasures. But Sadie’s sourdough is not just a love story for those pining for the most satisfying of glutenous trysts. Its creation was literally a labor of love that came about in an attempt to bake her way into a man’s heart. A fresh New York transplant in 2010 still smitten with her gluten-intolerant San Franciscan college crush, Sadie rolled up her sleeves and headed into the kitchen. After toying with gluten-free bread recipes for six months, she started selling whatever flavor she came up with— salsa, coconut, tomato-basil—through a blog. She announced the week’s flavors online, took orders, and delivered about
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twenty loaves a week by bicycle to locals. About fourteen months in, she was still working as a barista at San Francisco’s famed Blue Bottle Coffee when she created the sourdough recipe that stuck. A subsequent plug on DailyCandy in 2012 caused a business spike so dramatic she was clocking a hundred bike miles weekly before hiring a small fleet of bikedelivery women, securing a co-op commercial kitchen, and baking full time. Today, Sadie’s business is still on the rise. The seven hundred loaves of sourdough she bakes each week in a gluten-free commercial kitchen are sold to nearly twenty Bay Area boutique grocers and a growing number of addicts across the country who get their fix by mail order. She’s got two baking employees and enough business to keep her elbow-deep in dough for years to come. Oh, and she got the guy, too.
WORTH THE BREAD!
Bread SRSLY ships its classic, seeded, and seasonal gluten-free sourdough loaves ($9.50 to $11 each) and sourdough rolls ($33 for 16) anywhere in the United States for $5. breadsrsly.com
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CHEF'S TABLE
HOW THE STOLLS ROLL CRAIG AND ANNIE STOLL have plenty to
celebrate. Their iconic San Francisco restaurant, Delfina, just turned fifteen, tables remain booked at sister spot Locanda, they launched two new Bay Area outposts of Pizzeria Delfina this year, and they settled into a new house this summer. But their near-impossible achievement was finding time to gather a group of very busy restaurant luminaries for a long-overdue catch-up. The result? The mother of all potlucks featuring an Italian feast by the Stolls, an Indian-accented appetizer and side dish from Gayle Pirie and John Clark of Foreign Cinema restaurant, and seasonal hand pies from Michael and Jacky Recchiuti of Recchiuti Confections.
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Top: Craig and Annie Stoll; bottom, left to right: Gayle Pirie; John Clark and Annie; Craig toast his guests; Jacky and Michael Recchiuti GFFMAG.COM | FALL 2014
ST YL I N G BY N I SSA Q UA N DSTR OM
How do top chefs entertain over the holidays? We crashed a dinner party hosted by Craig and Annie Stoll, of San Francisco’s Delfina restaurant dynasty, to find out, and walked away with an arsenal of must-have recipes to help get you through all your seasonal festivities.
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AHA MOMENT!
j
tes into Slice egg whi deviled r fo quarters n eat ca u yo gs eg . te bi e in on
Deviled Eggs Tonnato with Bottarga and Crispy Capers MAKES 24 APPETIZERS This recipe from Craig Stoll calls for lemon-infused olive oil and bottarga. Widely available at gourmet grocers, the oil adds a pure and bright citrus finish. But you can also simply drizzle good-quality extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle lemon zest over the eggs if preferred. Bottarga is dried salted and pressed mullet roe, which adds a rich, salty, sea-like umami. If you like caviar, you’ll like it finely grated over the eggs. It’s expensive, but a little goes a long way. If you don’t want to splurge, make this dish anyway—it’ll still be a hit. 6 hard-boiled eggs
1⁄4 cup drained canned tuna 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon lemon juice Zest of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons caper brine Kosher salt
1⁄2 cup peanut oil 2 tablespoons capers, drained and blotted dry 2 ounces bottarga, for garnish (optional) 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley, for garnish 2 tablespoons lemon-infused olive oil, for drizzling Peel the eggs and cut each one into quarters slowly and carefully. Carefully remove the yolk from each. Place the whites on a plate and refrigerate. Put the yolks in a medium mixing bowl, mash with a fork until smooth, and set aside. Puree the tuna in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, zest, and caper brine. Pulse until smooth. Add the tuna mix to the yolks and mix well by hand. Add a
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generous pinch of salt. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Heat the peanut oil in a small pot over medium heat. When hot, add the capers and fry gently until crispy. Drain the capers through a small shallow strainer. Spread on a paper towel to cool. Shortly before serving, remove the yolk mixture from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. Transfer it to a pastry bag with a small star tip and pipe the filling into each quartered egg white. Arrange on a serving platter and top with the fried capers, making sure that a couple of capers adhere to each egg. Grate bottarga over the eggs, sprinkle with parsley, drizzle with lemon oil, and serve.
Indian Spiced Greens on Papads SERVES 6 TO 8 AS AN APPETIZER “These yummy greens are an adaption from our friend, and great cook, Niloufer Ichiporia, whose sumptuous and versatile recipes continue to inspire our imagination,” divulges Gayle Pirie, who serves them on bite-size papad shards. Papads, she says, are “addictive lentil-flour wafers used as a finishing component to Indian main courses and appetizers.” They’re available at Middle Eastern markets and online and are definitely worth seeking for this dish and for everyday snacking. 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons cumin seeds 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped
1⁄2 cup finely chopped onion 1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1⁄2 cup chopped fresh tomato Kosher salt 1 bunch chard, kale, escarole, or beet greens, washed, thick center stems removed, and chopped into 2-inch pieces
1⁄2 lime 6 papads or pappadoms (aka pappadums)
Add 2 tablespoons of water if the greens start to dry out. Squeeze the lime juice onto the greens and add more salt, if desired. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside. Preheat the broiler and place an oven rack in the center position. Place two papads at a time on the rack and toast quickly and evenly, rotating often with tongs. Watch vigilantly, holding the oven door ajar to look for tiny golden bubbles evenly popping on the surface. Once toasted, cool the papads and gently break them into 2-inch-square pieces. Spoon a small portion of the spiced greens directly on top of each of the papads and serve immediately.
Heat the oil over medium heat in a sauté pan. Add the cumin, garlic, onion, and pepper and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly to ensure the garlic and onion do not brown. Stir in the turmeric, tomato, and a pinch of salt. Then add the chard. Sauté for 6 minutes or until the greens are tender.
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GRATE ST Y L I NG BY VI C TO R I A GR A N O F
EXPECTATIONS
Serve them big for breakfast, mini with drinks, or ceremoniously at Hanukkah. These colorful, fresh, and flavorful potato pancakes are crowd pleasers no matter how you shred ’em. By Emily Garland for Victoria Granof Studio
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LATKES THREE WAYS MAKES APPROXIMATELY 10 LATKES Choose the latke style of choice from the three selections below. Strain the grated vegetables in a colander over the sink, then squeeze out as much liquid as possible. In a large bowl, mix together the egg, salt, pepper to taste, spices, and herbs (if applicable). Add the grated vegetables and stir to combine. Working in batches, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, gently drop 2-tablespoon mounds of potato mixture into the skillet, pressing gently to flatten. Fry the latkes until crispy, about 3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in the oven. Garnish and serve.
Curry-Carrot Latkes with Mango Chutney and Yogurt
Beet Latkes with Green Apple and Fennel Relish 1 medium russet potato, peeled and grated 1 small yellow onion, grated 1 large beet, peeled and grated 1 egg, beaten 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper
1⁄3 cup vegetable oil FENNEL RELISH 1 cup diced green apple
1⁄2 cup diced fennel 1⁄4 cup diced red onion Squeeze of lemon
1 medium russet potato, peeled and grated 1 small yellow onion, grated 1 large carrot, grated 1 egg, beaten 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper
3⁄4 teaspoon curry powder 1⁄8 teaspoon coriander 1⁄3 cup vegetable oil 1⁄2 cup plain yogurt, for garnish Mango chutney, for garnish
Herb Latkes with Smoked Salmon and Sour Cream 2 medium russet potatoes, grated 1 small yellow onion, grated 1 egg, beaten 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper 1 tablespoon fresh chives, minced 1 tablespoon dill 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, minced 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
1⁄3 cup vegetable oil Smoked salmon, for garnish
1⁄2 cup sour cream, for garnish FALLFALL 20142014 | GFFMAG.COM | GFF.COM
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DESTINATION
SAN FRA The best way to get to know any city is to act like you live there. That’s why we’re skipping the tourist attractions and hot new dining rooms and sharing the real local deal. From San Francisco’s must-eat neighborhood restaurants, to where we go for fun, to where we tell our friends to stay when they’re not crashing with us, here’s everything you need to live it up like a resident in our hometown.
Compiled by Marcia Gagliardi, Erika Lenkert, Maren Caruso, and Catherine Jacobes 72
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ANCISCO
A sunny Sunday in Dolores FALL 2014 | GFFMAG.COM 73Park
Top: Skaters shakin’ their groove thangs in Golden Gate Park. Middle: Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Bottom: Hayes Valley. Facing page: Throwing it back atop Corona Heights
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IMPERIAL SPA
SF GIANTS GAME
SUNDAY IN GOLDEN GATE PARK
DO THIS FERRY PLAZA FARMERS MARKET You won’t find a more robust selection of produce, prepared foods, foraging chefs and residents, and food-loving fun than at this thrice-weekly bayfront market. Inside the adjoining Ferry Building Marketplace is GF bakery Mariposa Baking Company. (Try their pinguinos!) ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
DE YOUNG MUSEUM Come midday, midweek to this fine-arts landmark and wander through the African mask collection. We swear it’s haunted! deyoung.famsf.org
On Sundays, the park’s main thoroughfare, John F. Kennedy Drive, is closed to cars, giving cyclists, skaters, and meanderers free rein of the wide, scenic, and mostly flat road. If you rent a bike you can take a leisurely ride down to Ocean Beach. Don’t miss the ’70s-throwback disco roller skaters working it out near the 6th Avenue park entrance. golden-gate-park.com
GLIDE MEMORIAL CHURCH The best show in town—and free!— this church’s “radically inclusive” services are soulful, only-in-SF entertainment. Expect uplifting liberal spirituality accompanied by a six-piece jazz band and invigorating gospel choir. glide.org
CORONA HEIGHTS HIKE This hike is largely unknown even to residents despite its unobstructed panoramas spanning from downtown to Twin Peaks. To access it, start at Corona Heights Park near the Randall Museum parking lot and follow the trails and steep steps. sfrecpark.org
The stadium is stunning, the sweeping bay views get better the less you spend on tickets, and the Great House of Brews has GF beers and hot dogs. sanfrancisco.giants.mlb.com
FORT MASON’S OFF THE GRID This weekly gastronomic gathering of food trucks and carts is a tasty scene, with GF options at Curry Up Now, Nopalito, Chotto, and more. offthegridsf.com
HAYES VALLEY SHOPPING Hayes Street’s few commercial blocks between Webster and Laguna streets are lined with stores selling some of the coolest wares in town—for the home and the human. And our new fave French restaurant, Monsieur Benjamin, is just steps away.
RAINBOW GROCERY COOPERATIVE Grocery stores are a window into a city’s soul, and this kaleidoscope of products and people sums up San Francisco perfectly. It also has a staggering selection of gluten-free goods, including Bread SRSLY’s crazy-good sourdough (page 30). rainbow.coop
The hot and cold pools and Yellow Clay Fomentation Room are great, but we can’t get enough of the $60 classic Korean body scrub, where sturdy women in black undergarments unceremoniously (and communally!) scour layers— and years—off every inch of your body. imperialdayspa.com
STROLL FROM THE MARINA GREEN TO FORT POINT Follow the Marina’s flat, grassy fields and marsh-front paths for views of the Golden Gate Bridge, bobbing boats, bayfront mansions, and fitness-obsessed residents running and biking. The path ends at Fort Point, an intriguing National Historic Site dating back to the Civil War.
BLOOMINGDALES’ PERSONAL SHOPPING You don’t have to have a venture capitalist’s income to take advantage of the smart stylings of Bloomies’ personal shopper, Amanda Adams. Her services are free, she doesn’t work on commission so there’s no pressure to buy, and a reservation (required; call 415⁄856-5537) promises you your own Cinderella moment. bloomingdales.com
RICHARDSON BAY KAYAKING You’ll have to drive across the Golden Gate Bridge or take the ferry to Sausalito and walk to the Bay Model launch area. But there are few things better than paddling around in boats that are nearly impossible to tip, past sea lions, harbor seals, sea birds, and the town’s famed houseboat communities. seatrek.com
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SKILL IT
PERFECT PIECRUST
Triple-threat food stylist, recipe developer, and allergen-free cooking instructor Jeffrey Larsen shows how to make the ultimate GF piecrust—with vegan variations. Put this recipe in your back pocket and pull it out again and again for quiches and pies.
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Making this piecrust vegan is easy. Just replace the butter with an equal amount of Earth Balance Buttery Sticks, and replace the sour cream with 2 tablespoons cold water.
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VEGANIZE IT!
Perfect GF Piecrust MAKES ONE 9-INCH STANDARD OR DEEPDISH PIECRUST This dough doesn’t need to rest in the refrigerator before use. But you can wrap it in plastic and refrigerate it for a night or freeze it for a month or more; just bring it back to room temperature before you roll it.
1⁄2 cup (60 grams) brown rice flour, plus more for rolling the dough
1⁄3 cup (34 grams) tapioca starch 1⁄3 cup (48 grams) potato starch (not potato flour)
1⁄4 cup (34 grams) sweet rice flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt 1⁄2 cup (4 ounces/1 stick) cold, unsalted butter, diced 11⁄2 tablespoons sour cream, or 2 tablespoons ice water (for vegan) 11⁄2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1
In a medium bowl or food processor, mix together the 1⁄2 cup brown rice flour, the tapioca starch, potato starch, sweet rice flour, sugar, xanthan gum, and salt. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or a fork until it forms pea-size pieces. Add the sour cream and rice vinegar and combine with your hands.
2
Turn the dough out onto the counter and knead gently. If it seems dry, add 1 teaspoon of cold water at a time and knead the dough until it’s smooth.
3
Sprinkle a sheet of parchment paper with brown rice flour. Flatten the dough into a disk on the paper. Sprinkle it with a little more brown rice flour and roll it out until the dough is 11 to 12 inches in diameter.
4
Invert a 9-inch pie plate on top of the dough. Slip one hand under the parchment paper while holding the pie plate with the other hand. Carefully flip the whole thing over so the dough is on the pie plate.
5
Carefully peel off the paper while easing the dough into the plate. Gently press the dough into the pie plate, press any cracks together, and trim the edges of the dough so they just reach the edge of the pie plate. (You can use the trimmings to patch any breaks.)
6
To create a decorative edge, make a pattern with a spoon or fork; if the spoon sticks to the dough, dip it in GF flour before each use. Prick the crust with a fork on the bottom and partway up the sides. Use the piecrust or freeze it, wrapped well in plastic wrap, for future use.
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